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It really is comical when people don’t agree or see the reason some people prefer the older vehicles. They become condescending. All the while they may be busting their knuckles on old vehicles. I have found memories of swapping out engines in my old GM cars in a weekend without much hassle. Unlike today. One wrong move a computer will shut you down. Even on something as easy as a brake job. There’s a pretty comical YouTuber called the car wizard. A garage owner who puts it all in perspective. Another Vicegrip garage that’s shows just how tough the old stuff is.

I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary. Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes. Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades. The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since. Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first! GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.

Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.

If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.

It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together. I also touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules. I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags. The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out. For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on). The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system. That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected. It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work. For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way. I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.

JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold . Keep tuned ! Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up

Thank you JR ! Here's hoping you can post the video with sound

Looks about right given the data provided. Could it be better? Perhaps. But in spec isn't going to get it that way under warranty.

'22 Sierra 2500HD. Just want to confirm, Am about to replace the Trailer Brake Control Module (the thing above the spare tire), and then may replace the Trailer Brake Controller (in-dash device). I understand, at least for the Module replacement, that the vehicle battery needs to be disconnected. So, a couple questions - Is it necessary to disconnect the battery for both procedures? - Is there a difference, in any resultant electronic issues, on how long a battery is disconnected? IE does it matter if the battery is disconnected for an hour as opposed to over night? - And, for replacement of both items, is there a requirement to "re-boot" any system(s). I have been led to believe that the Module is less of an issue than the Controller, but it has been suggested that a trip to the dealer may be necessary after the Controller is replaced. Any advice is welcome. Marv

I usually upload to youtube then paste the link here. I haven't done it here but it worked on other forums.

^^^What he said.^^^

Just buy and extended warranty and don’t worry about anything else.

I agree with Tim. As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6. Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy. That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid. I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either. I got a V8 for a reason. But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway. I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy. Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day. If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can. Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.

I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc... My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch! I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once. Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments

Looks like the entire state is burning.

Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter.

Cool to see another Vermonter!

To many wildfires.

I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.

I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well.

So speaking of oil consumption with my L8T as I just changed the oil yesterday and made the switch over to Amsoil SS 0W-40 from the Mobil 1 5W-30 Truck and SUV I just dropped out. 2900 miles on that oil as well as 68 hours on that oil ( so used to equipment with an hour meter and that becomes valuable information to compare with others as well ). Once again the oil use was so very little, I am going to say it dropped under 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. No towing was done and this interval was from early spring until now. One interesting item to note is that going by the 5 quart jugs I was using before from Mobil, it was showing that I was putting in 8 US quarts to bring it to full if not slightly over the full mark according to their jug markings. Granted I did allow more drain time this time and in part because the engine oil was only lukewarm as I started it and let it idle and not for long enough to get the oil itself hot ( the engine was up to operating temp ). The oil in that state just seemed to take forever for it to drip out but not only at the drain plug but at the oil filter housing as well, perhaps I had never quite gotten all the oil out before and I could have still waited longer but as it was I waited well over 3 hours. I think next time if I have the time I will do an experiment by dropping the oil and lets say leave the pan under it for 15 minutes, then switch to another pail and let it drip out overnight and measure how much more oil comes out. So this time and yes I ended up getting it just over the full mark as I was experimenting with trying to get the level to the add mark after I had run it and then waited some and then added a bit and waited for a certain amount of time for it to settle to the add mark. I very well may not have waited long enough for that experiment but I got to the add mark, then dumped in a full quart and waited some and checked and then waited some more and it crept up more ... and then finally oops, it was slightly over full some hours later when it really had settled all it would. I find this engine sure takes time for the last bit of oil that gets poured in to finally make its way into the crank case. I can only guess at how much too much I added as per maybe a 1/10th of a quart. I had poured in 8.5 quarts going by the quart containers as per 8 quarts and 16 us ounces. I was shocked at how much this was off compared to the prior oil changes and if those larger jugs and they are not marked accurately enough or they contain slightly more than what they say, or the drain time factor made that much of a difference. But I know on this forum there have been others who have said they have put well over 8 quarts in their L8T and now I have also going by the Amsoil true quart containers. Its a confusing convoluted mess up here in Canada with some oil manufactures packaging is in true US quarts, some is also in true US quarts containers on an even number of quarts but also marked in liters which becomes the odd ball volume of a fractional amount of liters. Then there is the Liters only containers, no US markings as its a true metric container and only measured in Liters to an even number of Liters. But remember we used to have Imperial Gallons and Imperial quarts as well !.

Holy smokes. Clearly not a deal on that truck. I just mean in general, matte or painted trim is becoming more normative than chrome, but I know the Black Optics packages on various vehicles are being sold as uplevel trims. They look really good, but sheesh. It's just paint and plastic.

I Wouldn't Know Where to Begin Oh I know where I would begin but I'm just one of over eight billion people on this rock. Eight billion versions of where the goal post is. How large it should be. How far to kick from. What ball is the right ball. Elevation. Age.....are you getting the point? It isn't about disagreeing with one individual. It's about agreeing only with one individual. One's self. Agreement comes when multiple people hold the same point already. THAT is the goal of an education. Building the Social Contract. That thing that allows us to all read this sentence. We've agreed on the alphabet and how to arrange those letters into words we agree upon whose meanings hold true for everyone entering into that contract. Those words arranged into a sentence form an idea and several sentences strung together in a paragraph convey an argument for or against or inform the reader of a state, condition or perhaps reveal a things nature. Paint a word picture. Make oneself known. This contract is not limited to words although they are often explained by words. Things like numbers and their usefulness. Physics, Chemistry, Medicine, Music, Art and so on. The frequency of middle C (C4) is 261.63 Hz is a first principle, not a suggestion. We build on that to make music we all can enjoy even if we all can not compose or play. You don't have to master it to make it enjoyable and useful. So why is the Beginning so difficult? Why is agreement so elusive? Everyone "Signs" the contract (when receiving that education in obtaining it) but fewer and fewer in this world have any intention of living by that contract. They find exploiting that contract more advantageous. Disruption. With intent. Without intent. In Ignorance. In your face. With a double dog dare you. With a hold my beer. In resistance to that contract and in spite how it looks on us. It permeates the very air we breath. In this way the contract is subject to advantage. Abide by it when it serves you, disregard it when it doesn't. Unpredictable and self-serving. Corrosive.....Toxic........ It says a lot about a persons character to disregard the contract, the truth, first principles. None of it good. ******************************************************** https://medicine.yale.edu/news-article/character-vs-personality-who-we-are-and-who-we-aspire-to-be/ Just an interesting article.

It costs $5,250 for the Yukon Nightfall option (black wheels, emblems and illuminated black GMC grill badge). What a "deal".

I keep getting the above error message on my 25 Sierra. If I reset the infotainment unit (via the phone hang up button) it will work again for a day or 2. But I dont want to do have to reset all the time. Works fine in my 2023 Corvette. On both vehicles I connect wirelessly. I have a Google Pixel 10 Pro XL, phone is up to date. Any Ideas. See attached