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  2. Going to have the TPMS light on and check tire pressure warning on. Sensors are cheap enough, just buy 4 more and put them on the winter wheels.
  3. I have a 2019 new body style sierra x31. Came factory with 275/60/20 all terrains. Im wanting to put 35/12.5/20's xcomp gladiators (mud tire) on this truck. Im getting a lot of you need this and that but might be sales pitch as well. Any help would be greatful. What size lift do I really need 4'' or 6"? Can I use my factory rims or do I have to buy aftermarket wells? I was told needed 8'' lift and will need aftermarket rims. If I need aftermarkets for the 12.5'' tires what width could I go with to keep factory rims
  4. Was definitely plugged in fully, and is a brand new factory antenna. This seems to be a 2014 problem. I’ve talked with another guy on another forum with the same issue.
  5. Could be a partially plugged radiator. I would have changed the coolant earlier. Feel the rad. hoses when its idling. The bottom hose should be cooler if the rad. is good I believe.
  6. To quote that National Highway Safety Administration in denying GM's petition to make it mandatory, "NHTSA has reviewed the petition and performed an extensive analysis of real world crash data. Based on the results of our study we were unable to find solid evidence of an overall safety benefit associated with daytime running lamps and are therefore denying the petition for rule-making. The agency maintains its neutral position with respect to the safety benefits from the use of daytime running lamps." https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2009/06/29/E9-15314/federal-motor-vehicle-safety-standard-no-108-lamp-reflective-devices-and-associated-equipment
  7. I will admit my vision is a little tainted to some respect. Being an old Army Cavalry Sergeant, I expect everyone to pack the gear. No gold bricks in the bunch. To that end, I pay for 8 cylinders and I expect them all to work all the time the motor is running. If I wanted a 4 cylinder, I would have bought a 4 cylinder like the motor in my wife's Equinox. Therefore, I will not buy a vehicle where some of the cylinders take OEM or Union inspired smoke breaks while the others have to do the work. In other words, the goofy AFM stuff which, to wit this forum, has caused quite a bit of heartburn for many owners leading to many repairs and work around patches. And the issue of LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) issues that can really mess up an engine that has higher compression ratios like the 6.2 Ecotec, especially with the engine down speeding motivation of the OEM's in an attempt to improve fuel economy by using taller and taller differential ratios in 1/2 ton pickups and autos. And one will not know it is an issue till damage is done since the ECM tries to work around it, so the only real prevention to this common problem is using higher octane fuels which are significantly more expensive. Thus, while not "required" by the OEM (mostly for marketing reasons), using Premium only in the 6.2 Ectoec is probably a wise idea. This leads to why we use only 100 octane E85 in my wife's Equinox with the Flex Fuel 2.4L 11.2:1 compression ratio engine. Roughly $1.20 less than Premium in my area so is far more cost effective per mile to use, even with the lower MPG. So, LSPI will never be a factor. Unfortunately the 6.2 Ecotec is not a flex fuel motor. Less complexity or being "less refined" is not always a bad thing. Occam's Razor principle comes to mind as well as Scotty's comment in a Star Trek movie about the more complicated the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the drain. And since the only way to avoid this sort of thing right out of the gate is to buy a 3/4 ton or larger, that puts the bottom end of the truck line for me at the 2500 or Class 2 level. And, thankfully, the 6.6L L8T does not have AFM stuff, and the compression ratio is lower than the 6.2 Ecotec, making the issue of LSPI less of a probability by using regular fuel. Fortunately, the 2500 line can be had quite frequently for the same or even less money off the lot than much of the 1/2 ton line.
  8. Thank you. Get tired of the whining when as you say millions of these trucks without issues.
  9. What is the coolant level in the fill tank? My radiator had a hairline crack and the level in the fill tank would gradually lower. I could see if the level in the tank gets low enough you could overheat.
  10. I understand the extend warranty due to all of the items that were disconnected and reconnected, a lot more room for later issues.
  11. I am also considering putting this lift on my truck and would like to see pics of the CV angles. I know Zone just came out with a 4 inch lift, and debating which would be the better option!!
  12. The slave doesn't have enough strength?or throw,did you try double clutching it?one extra pump on the pedal
  13. Rob Catron

    Ac

    Ac blowers hot air for several miles before starts cooling. Condenser has been replaced and freon.
  14. The dealer did a triple flush and my truck runs fine, power train warranty covered the service. Thanx for the info
  15. 15-06-04-002: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated, Fuel Tank Hard to Fill, DTCs P0442, P0446, P0455 or P0449 Set Some customers may comment on the following conditions: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) is illuminated. The fuel tank is hard to fill. Technicians may find one or more of the following DTCs: P0442, P0446, P0455 or P0449 set as current or in history and there may be evidence of dust or water intrusion at the evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister vent solenoid (CVS) valve. Cause The EVAP CVS valve draws fresh air into the EVAP system through a vent attached at the top of the conduit that is secured to the fuel filler pipe. Under certain operating conditions, dirt and dust intrusion into the CVS fresh air intake/venting system may result in restricted air flow. Under certain operating conditions, if water is ingested into the EVAP CVS fresh air intake/venting system, it may reach the CVS valve causing corrosion in the CVS valve and may cause restrictions in the fresh air intake path when the CVS valve is in the closed position. Ingested water will also collect in the CVS valve cyclonic filter in order to protect the EVAP canister. However if the capacity of the cyclonic filter is exceeded, this may result in water entering the EVAP canister and cause an additional restriction during refueling. Correction Note: DO NOT replace the EVAP canister assembly for this concern unless it fails the leak test or it has ingested excessive amounts of dirt, dust or water. After following the published SI diagnostics and determining that the EVAP CVS valve is the cause of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination or the hard to fill symptom, replace the existing EVAP CVS valve assembly with the new revised design assembly. Original design EVAP CVS valve shown above. Revised design EVAP CVS valve shown above. This revised EVAP CVS valve assembly is a sealed unit that is vented through a remote pre-filter mounted atop the fuel filler housing. The revised CVS valve incorporates improved filtering capacity. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedure outlined below: Important: DO NOT make any sharp bends or allow any kinks in the hose when routing the hose. Note: Apply loc-tite 401 or equivalent (SuperGlue, etc.) to the end of the heater hose (1) which will go into the CVS valve rubber coupling. Turn OFF the ignition, and all electrical components, including the scan tool. Note: DO NOT remove the fuel fill cap in order to prevent any debris from entering the fill pipe. Remove the fuel tank filler pipe housing to body TORX screws and retainer. Reposition the filler housing and pipe to improve access to the EVAP pre-filter located on the top of the fuel filler housing. Release the tabs (1) securing the EVAP pre-filter housing (2) to the top of the fuel filler housing. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI. Disconnect the vehicle chassis wiring harness electrical connector from the CVS valve. Disconnect the CVS valve assembly quick connect fitting from the EVAP canister. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service in SI. Note the routing of the pre-filter hose along the frame rail and fuel fill pipe assembly, then disconnect the filter line clips and remove the filter assembly/line from above the frame rail and fuel filler pipe assembly. Cut off the CVS valve assembly line with quick connect fitting from the CVS valve as shown above. Remove the complete CVS valve and filter assembly/line from the CVS bracket on the vehicle. Install the cut off the CVS valve assembly line with quick connect fitting to the CVS valve as shown above. Match the approximate angle of the line on the original valve and clamp into place. Install the new CVS valve assembly to the vehicle. Measure the length of the hose on the removed EVAP CVS assembly from the pre-filter to the CVS filter. Allow extra length to ensure there will be no kinks in the heater hose, and cut the needed length of the specified heater hose. The hose will run along the frame rail in the same manner as the original pre-filter hose. Install the new pre-filter and filter housing to one end of the hose and clamp in place. Partially lower vehicle. Through the fuel tank filler pipe housing opening, install the pre-filter and housing (2) with hose attached to the back of the fuel tank filler pipe housing. Secure the tabs of the filter (1) to the slots in the filler pipe housing. Install the fuel tank filler pipe housing to the body. Raise the vehicle. Carefully route the pre-filter hose along the fuel filler pipe and frame rail and over to the CVS valve assembly. Install tie straps along the pre-filter hose to the fuel filler pipe and wiring harness along the frame rail. Trim an excess hose length as needed. Apply adhesive as indicated and install the hose into the rubber coupling of the CVS valve assembly. Ensure the hose is fully installed and clamp into place. Connect the vehicle chassis wiring harness electrical connector to the CVS valve. Lower the vehicle. Clear any DTCs. Parts Information Part Number Description Qty 23103351 FILTER KIT-EVAP EMIS CNSTR (W/ SEAL) 1 09438383 HOSE, FUEL-OIL EVAP 5/8" x 25' (need 3-8 feet from roll per vehicle depending on box and CVS configuration) Cut Length 12337820 TIE STRAP (need 4-6 depending on box and CVS configuration) 4-6 11609970 CLAMP
  16. Have you tired to clay bar the truck? Even a new vehicle will have some contamination on it. First thing I did when I got it home, clayed, polished and ceramic coated.
  17. Any fix yet? Just got truck back from getting new lifters, cam etc. Truck ran great before collapsed lifter. Now new parts and it vibrates and shudders between 45 and 60.
  18. For sale new in box factory 2 inch lift 84629787 $900.00 plus shipping
  19. Today
  20. looking into it further...if you want nice wheels, you have to have the 10,6 GVW. if you want to keep it at 10 you have to have 17" rims. not sure what their reasoning is for this.....but in MA over 10k you need USDOT numbers, if you travel more than 100 miles from home base you need a log book, medical card, etc. its already a pain for my one ton dump i dont need it in a regular pickup.
  21. I don’t know who made these for GM. The warranty parts were in a bag marked Made in China, so the cover may also be made there for GM
  22. You could have a air pocket. But also I would swap out the thermostat anyways. And you say the fans work but they are a speed regulated system so without a scanner it is impossible to know at what % they run at. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  23. So had to do the dad thing and go move some things for my son who is a sophomore in college. Drive was 90% at 67 to 72 mph. Last 15 miles or so was a 55 mph zone (when pic was taken) entering Raleigh. I always take it easy there as lots of blue potential blue lights are always near. Tough to beat these GM V8's on mpg in the real world; she's not even broken in with less than 400 miles.
  24. Anyone interested in a product to keep the splitgate(upper gate) from opening if there is anything in the reciever? Tailgate will operate normally except for the Splitgate. Product should be out in a month or so.
  25. jay webb

    20190914_100944.jpg

    see the round pad on the lowest leaf spring. what i do at the dealership is get 4 of those and install them on the upper springs replacing the square pads and the noise goes away. we had a meeting with some engineers and this is what they came up with to fix the popping noise from the leaf springs.
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