Atlas

Hormuz: Closed Blockade: Blockading Oil: Rising Tensions: Boiling $4.99 here with more over $5 again. Tick tock...

On a more serious note, the Traverse is basically a minivan with large car-like rear doors. Versatile, comfortable, and FWD/AWD, unibody design makes them nice drivers and pretty efficient considering their size. But, being honest the last small-ish van of GM's that I liked was the Astro.

Because I couldn't find someone to do a root canal without anesthetic on me, I decided to replace the door pins on my sagging driver's door to fill my Sunday afternoon instead. Nothing makes a vehicle feel more like such a huge pile of crap than a sagging driver's door, especially when it creaks/groans. Procedurally, it's not that hard of a fix. Practically, it is a learning curve and you really should have someone there to help position the door when it's unhinged. Caution: spouses may become unhinged if you don't clearly communicate expectations or start moving the door without announcing to line up holes, etc. I'm happy to report the hinges are just fine, but the old pins were severely worn, and the bushings had basically broken they were so bad. New pins and new bushings have it opening/closing level with the striker. These are pretty janky doors/latches from the factory so we don't get a "pop/thud" open/close like with a Mercedes. More of a clacky/latchy sound with a jiggly door handle. But it's as-new, good as it's going to get. One more item checked off the list. The passenger door "could" use a new set of pins. 50/50 on whether I do it or not as it's fairly involved. At the very least I'll wait a week because I was down on my hands/knees and I'll need to wait a few days to recover from that!

I think the answer is it's a stock 5.7 Hemi with a 3.0L blower bolted onto it Practically, because a blower introduces a lot of high pressure, severe thermal stress, and extreme mechanical loads on an engine. Things still need a little time to seat and get used to moving under load. Sarcastically, because it's a Stellantis/ 5.7 Hemi and those things need all the help they can get!!

The Germans basically didn't make the list. There aren't a lot of shade-tree mechanics who work on them in general. At some point the economic equation of keeping a car alive favors junking it. Anecdote/experience tells me this is the case versus actual bad engines/engineering. Not that there isn't any, but there are definitely notable excellent examples. The 2.0 diesels will go forever and ever if one keeps the car around it running. The 2.0 gas cars eventually wear out their turbos but the block below it is usually still solid as a rock. BMW inline 6's same thing. Mercedes diesels of yesteryear, not uncommon to see 250k out of those engines, easy. Link to the synopsis of the study: https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-study

0w20 is recommended in the Sequoia. 0w16 in the Highlander Hybrid. I think you make a compelling case for both the quality and frequency of maintenance but I wouldn't go so far as to plot a linear relationship between longevity and oil weight The list is interesting and leaves me with some questions. The Silverado 1500 is 12.9% likely while the GMC Sierra 1500 is only 10.8% likely. Arguably, they're the same truck, so other factors must be influencing the outcome. The Honda Odyssey ranks #12 at 13% likely. Great. Rest assured we'll never stop hearing about the dang thing LOL. There's a bit of a spread between the 4Runner (32.9%) and Tacoma (25.3%). Both overlap on the same 4.0 for many years although the Tacoma used a 3.5 for the last 10-12ish. I wonder if that's related to use-case or if it's suggesting the 3.5 isn't quite as up to the task, or maybe something else fails mechanically. Ram at 3.5% overall likely, but the Ram 3500 holds the top spot on the Heavy Duty Models at 39.7%. One might say the Cummins is a ringer and provides an unfair advantage. I don't think it's fair/accurate to pit the GM Fullsize 1500's in a list with HD's which are basically medium-duty wearing a 3500 badge. The Tahoe and Suburban hold spots #15 and #8, respectively, on the longest lasting SUV's list. What's the difference? One's got a shorter butt, unless they're also counting the 2500/3500 Suburbans in those numbers. The GMC Canyon gets a 1.4% increase over its twin brother Colorado. Why, because it's prettier? SO many questions...

I may post it once I'm ready to send it down the road. It's very....recognizable. Documented, even. This isn't just any 1995 Blazer The feature it has is the only one I've ever seen in the wild. Not necessarily value-increasing, but it is rare. You are correct about the body; it's a Pacific Northwest (Wet side) vehicle since new so it has zero rust. It's straight. It was parked outside for a long time so it does show its age a little bit but otherwise presents very well and is very clean. If I didn't have guys on this forum wanting to hunt me down and kill me for my politics and sass, I'd post it up right now. And there it is, adding some faux-intrigue about this weird little truck for those following the story.. I just returned from tearing the lower intake off a junkyard '95 2-door 4.3 CPI. $50 for the intake and $45 for the EGR still attached to it. I said to the guy, MY DUDE, it came attached, and probably doesn't work, and you're charging me 2/3 the cost of a brand new EGR, I know, I just bought one. Are you serious? He said if I didn't want the EGR I could go take it off. Alrighty then. So I took it off. My total with tax was $56 out the door.

^^ Yep, that's all it was. The fuel line had rubbed through on one of the spider legs and was severely leaking. Even the lines/nut and bolt kit are harder to find and I think I paid $84 (Standard HK-11) for the kit. Ripoff. But when you're the only brand still making it... There are a few things left before the truck is Atlas® Certified (and I've thoroughly spent too much on it considering what it's worth). My RockAuto shopping cart total is about $250 and growing: -Radiator (there's a pinhole leak, driver's upper corner where a cooling line bolts in, the threaded insert weld cracked) -Water pump (mine squeaks, I assume it's shot) -Lower radiator hose (it's original, if replacing cooling parts, this shall be touched too) -Starter (It's not always engaging the flywheel, get the whirrrrrr sometimes when I turn the key but no crank) -Door hinge replacement pins (already purchased, need to install) Suspect/borderline parts NOT included in shopping cart (only if I want to opt for bonus points): -Motor mounts. Someone twerked the radiator fan shroud, so I can't tell if the motor mounts are bad/squished or if it's truly just a deformed fan shroud. I reassembled the shroud correctly but the plastic is still re-forming/relaxing where it was all mangled and bent, and the fan still chafes it occasionally, but it's 99% better. -Left rear door speaker is blown -Rear wiper motor is shot (horrible grinding noise) -One of the wheels is missing the bowtie center cap. This drives me insane to look at, I'll just need to find a replacement. I've already replaced: -Driver's door mirror -Idler pulley -Tensioner pulley -EGR -MAP sensor -Hood prop retainer -Intake plenum fuel lines -Intake gaskets -Thermostat (and flushed cooling system) -Radiator cap -Radiator overflow reservoir cap And it needs tires, and could use a set of front brake pads, and the brake system flushed. And it could use a transmission service, and if I'm doing that, why not differentials, and transfer case, and oh hell, why not flush the power steering. Is there anything I won't touch? Or...do I just get it to a point where I can send it down the road?

Atlas won. I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged. Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed. Made my day. Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.

I can see MAP data on my scanner. Warm idle MAP reads about 10.3-10.6 inHg which is healthy. Baseline is ~29 inHg (atmosphere) with key off. So that means the engine is pulling about 18.4" of vacuum at idle (29 minus 10.6) which is healthy. No real vacuum leaks that I'm aware of. The MAP sensor appears adequately responsive but I replaced it just in case, and I erased codes and reset the PCM after replacing it. Still getting the code. It's frustrating that I don't have data to verify actual data of the requested vs actual pintle positions of the EGR when the PCM is commanding it. That would really help. That's why I'm going back to basics. A plugged EGR port may be staring me right in the face. Ports were crystal clear when I reinstalled the manifold but that may not mean anything now. It doesn't appear clogged as far as I can see where the EGR bolts on, but farther back/down in the manifold it may be filled with crud again. There's all kinds of carbon still coming out of the exhaust. On cold start as the engine warms, the exhaust drips a little moisture and spits if you goose the throttle. It's truly just condensation, but it leaves a black mess on the floor.

Our local stations' (basically everywhere) diesel fuel has the minimum required cetane and is up to 20% biodiesel, ULSD. *My* truck runs fine on it. (When I'm not dumping the local choke-and-puke's used fry oil in the tank to save money!) - kidding. I'm not sure the documented long crank issues with some of these engines is fuel related, but fuel can certainly always be suspect. Always good to consider bad fuel as a possible cause.

That's part of the problem...the EGR has already been replaced, and I've already had the complete intake assembly removed, and the EGR passages were clear at that time. That leaves wiring, PCM, or another variable that I wasn't expecting. Best I can tell, it's not wiring or the PCM, so I'm grasping for straws. The PCM uses the MAP reading to confirm the requisite loss of vacuum in the manifold when the EGR activates. Since that's vacuum related, it involves a lot of other systems which could play a role. The overall diagnosis has to be considered too. The fuel lines in the intake had rubbed through and were dumping fuel into the intake, drowning the cylinders in fuel, and putting raw fuel into the sump and cat converter. The fuel system has been fixed but the complete path of damage may not be. If the cat was damaged and melted the internals, it could be partially obstructed and also playing into the EGR issue. I'm retracing my steps; trying to go back to thinking thinking Horses not Zebras based on the clues I've been given. These engines aren't *that* complex. Could it be, now that the truck is running well, that carbon and crud from being run with the fuel system in disarray is now dislodging and clogged my clean EGR passages where I can't see? That's what the code is actually saying. The flow is restricted, dummy. Retrace step 1. I may just need to remove the lower intake again. Before I do that I'm going to try removing the EGR and running the engine for a few seconds to see if it will blow anything lodged in the egr passages out through the open ports. That's been helpful in the past. For the spider injector, there's no guarantee I'll get a working one. The spider I have seems fine now that the high pressure fuel line isn't making an early delivery via large hole. SO at least I'm not marooned and looking for one of those. Row52 (dot com) is also a good one for watching for vehicles at local yards.

Retested the connector, seems to test OK. Resistance across the pins on the EGR appear healthy. I didn't have much time last night so I decided to take the Blazer for a drive up and over a mountain pass to put some heat and air into the engine and observe. On the ascent I left it in 3rd gear to keep the RPM up, 2500-3000. Coolant stayed cool, 195-199. I received a P0134 code unexpectedly (Upstream? O2 sensor inactivity) which was weird. I cleared the code and it never came back. O2's are doing their bouncing between lean and rich it appears. After the pass there's a good long 5-7 miles of high speed cruising. I never got P0104/ egr flow insufficient in 4th/OD between 55 and 70mph, so that keyed me to observe that I don't get the EGR code at higher speeds and I don't get it at lower speeds if I keep the RPM higher, i.e. 3rd gear. If I leave it in 4th, P0104 will set as high as 50/55mph on light throttle. In 3rd, it won't set until I'm down to 30mph or so. I don't know what that means, but I think it could mean something. I doubt the old EGR was actually bad, pins test OK. I doubt the new EGR is bad. Something has changed or I've somehow blocked the EGR passage way down inside the intake where I can't see. Or there's a vacuum leak, but the MAP seems to report healthy vacuum at idle and cruising. One thing I don't understand: Ignition advance on the scanner reads all over the place, but mostly negative. -15, -20, -30 seems fairly common. I don't think I've ever seen it positive, it's rarely ever near 0. I read that this can be an issue with scanners and OBD 1.5 simply not reading correctly. I doubt that too. OBD 1.5 was such a narrow period in time, and rare, there's just not a lot of information out there for modern times. I'm at that point, first time in a long time, where I feel like I'm in over my head. This isn't making sense and I don't have the tools I truly need to get to the bees knees on this issue.

Hormuzing: Not today. Ceasefire is ceased, or fired, I'm not sure. Kroger is still at $4.94 but others have inched up to over $5 again.

Sounds like I've got some work to do. Thank you for posting this!