Atlas

I have an old dental chair in my shop. Something I got for free and apparently it has more than scrap value? People collect them although mine isn't restored or anything. It's visually interesting (1930's Ritter) which is why I like it. And it IS decently comfortable if you kick back. When a good buddy of mine saw it he said, let me guess, Atlas. It's a conversation piece? As in, you ask the questions, they do the talking? Where do you hide the jar of teeth? I would never.

Are we talking about the same thing, though? The 7 versus 3 wear metals was from Lakespeed's 3.0-specific oil brand comparison test between AcDelco oil and Mobil ESP. The filter remains a constant so whatever excess particles the AcDelco oil is producing aren't being filtered out. I'm assuming there's a parallel comparison to be made; IF the filter can filter down those particles, engine life increases, and your graph makes the case that a better filter (lower micron rating) can increase engine life. Introducing fewer particles AND filtering those particles with higher efficiency is the best of all worlds. Good oil, good filter. Where we may disagree is the "baseline relative engine life". I'm more apt to believe the base engine life value is 200k+ on very average oil and filters, "bulk oil of unknown brand and white-label generic fleet-grade filter, Jiffy Lube" Going from a 10 micron filter to a 5 micron filter should boost a base 200k to 275k in a vacuum as a single factor alone. Here's the whatabout: How does regularly changing the oil and filter ahead of recommended schedule influence baseline engine life? Most people aren't going to science the heck out of this stuff or ask about Micron ratings, HTHS, or wear comparison tests at Jiffy Lube. Most of the Jiffy lube techs would say they need to call their tech support line to even try to get an answer. -- Because we love anecdotes here, when I was fishing for 4.3 parts at a local yard this weekend, ALL of the 4.3 vehicles had well over 200k. I love looking at odometers of junked vehicles. How far did THIS go before landing at the crusher? The ones that still had engines weren't seized. None of them were vehicles I'd consider were Amsoil queens, in fact most of them had some kind of service cling-sticker in the corner of the windshield indicating it probably had very average maintenance services. Even the fresh parts rigs- I'm not sure taking an S/T series to 400k has much value considering the running value of those vehicles was probably somewhere around $1,000. 25+ years is a good run on time alone. The intake manifold I salvaged had clean and bright pool areas. As expected, I found the fuel lines in the manifold rubbed through, just like mine. I'm guessing the lines on that donor truck started leaking, the truck started running rough, and its owner said that's enough I'm unwilling or can't take it out of service for several days, or spend $1000+ to repair it at a shop, it's simply time for a newer more reliable vehicle (or, more than likely, this is the 2nd, 3rd time this has happened in the truck's lifetime). While I don't count on my Blazer for reliability, the thought of giving it away for parts at certain points during my adventure, and being mentally free from its needs has has crossed my mind. I'd be losing $1500 or so, but I can only make more money; not time.

Hormuz: Closed Blockade: Blockading Oil: Rising Tensions: Boiling $4.99 here with more over $5 again. Tick tock...

On a more serious note, the Traverse is basically a minivan with large car-like rear doors. Versatile, comfortable, and FWD/AWD, unibody design makes them nice drivers and pretty efficient considering their size. But, being honest the last small-ish van of GM's that I liked was the Astro.

Because I couldn't find someone to do a root canal without anesthetic on me, I decided to replace the door pins on my sagging driver's door to fill my Sunday afternoon instead. Nothing makes a vehicle feel more like such a huge pile of crap than a sagging driver's door, especially when it creaks/groans. Procedurally, it's not that hard of a fix. Practically, it is a learning curve and you really should have someone there to help position the door when it's unhinged. Caution: spouses may become unhinged if you don't clearly communicate expectations or start moving the door without announcing to line up holes, etc. I'm happy to report the hinges are just fine, but the old pins were severely worn, and the bushings had basically broken they were so bad. New pins and new bushings have it opening/closing level with the striker. These are pretty janky doors/latches from the factory so we don't get a "pop/thud" open/close like with a Mercedes. More of a clacky/latchy sound with a jiggly door handle. But it's as-new, good as it's going to get. One more item checked off the list. The passenger door "could" use a new set of pins. 50/50 on whether I do it or not as it's fairly involved. At the very least I'll wait a week because I was down on my hands/knees and I'll need to wait a few days to recover from that!

I think the answer is it's a stock 5.7 Hemi with a 3.0L blower bolted onto it Practically, because a blower introduces a lot of high pressure, severe thermal stress, and extreme mechanical loads on an engine. Things still need a little time to seat and get used to moving under load. Sarcastically, because it's a Stellantis/ 5.7 Hemi and those things need all the help they can get!!

The Germans basically didn't make the list. There aren't a lot of shade-tree mechanics who work on them in general. At some point the economic equation of keeping a car alive favors junking it. Anecdote/experience tells me this is the case versus actual bad engines/engineering. Not that there isn't any, but there are definitely notable excellent examples. The 2.0 diesels will go forever and ever if one keeps the car around it running. The 2.0 gas cars eventually wear out their turbos but the block below it is usually still solid as a rock. BMW inline 6's same thing. Mercedes diesels of yesteryear, not uncommon to see 250k out of those engines, easy. Link to the synopsis of the study: https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-study

0w20 is recommended in the Sequoia. 0w16 in the Highlander Hybrid. I think you make a compelling case for both the quality and frequency of maintenance but I wouldn't go so far as to plot a linear relationship between longevity and oil weight The list is interesting and leaves me with some questions. The Silverado 1500 is 12.9% likely while the GMC Sierra 1500 is only 10.8% likely. Arguably, they're the same truck, so other factors must be influencing the outcome. The Honda Odyssey ranks #12 at 13% likely. Great. Rest assured we'll never stop hearing about the dang thing LOL. There's a bit of a spread between the 4Runner (32.9%) and Tacoma (25.3%). Both overlap on the same 4.0 for many years although the Tacoma used a 3.5 for the last 10-12ish. I wonder if that's related to use-case or if it's suggesting the 3.5 isn't quite as up to the task, or maybe something else fails mechanically. Ram at 3.5% overall likely, but the Ram 3500 holds the top spot on the Heavy Duty Models at 39.7%. One might say the Cummins is a ringer and provides an unfair advantage. I don't think it's fair/accurate to pit the GM Fullsize 1500's in a list with HD's which are basically medium-duty wearing a 3500 badge. The Tahoe and Suburban hold spots #15 and #8, respectively, on the longest lasting SUV's list. What's the difference? One's got a shorter butt, unless they're also counting the 2500/3500 Suburbans in those numbers. The GMC Canyon gets a 1.4% increase over its twin brother Colorado. Why, because it's prettier? SO many questions...

I may post it once I'm ready to send it down the road. It's very....recognizable. Documented, even. This isn't just any 1995 Blazer The feature it has is the only one I've ever seen in the wild. Not necessarily value-increasing, but it is rare. You are correct about the body; it's a Pacific Northwest (Wet side) vehicle since new so it has zero rust. It's straight. It was parked outside for a long time so it does show its age a little bit but otherwise presents very well and is very clean. If I didn't have guys on this forum wanting to hunt me down and kill me for my politics and sass, I'd post it up right now. And there it is, adding some faux-intrigue about this weird little truck for those following the story.. I just returned from tearing the lower intake off a junkyard '95 2-door 4.3 CPI. $50 for the intake and $45 for the EGR still attached to it. I said to the guy, MY DUDE, it came attached, and probably doesn't work, and you're charging me 2/3 the cost of a brand new EGR, I know, I just bought one. Are you serious? He said if I didn't want the EGR I could go take it off. Alrighty then. So I took it off. My total with tax was $56 out the door.

^^ Yep, that's all it was. The fuel line had rubbed through on one of the spider legs and was severely leaking. Even the lines/nut and bolt kit are harder to find and I think I paid $84 (Standard HK-11) for the kit. Ripoff. But when you're the only brand still making it... There are a few things left before the truck is Atlas® Certified (and I've thoroughly spent too much on it considering what it's worth). My RockAuto shopping cart total is about $250 and growing: -Radiator (there's a pinhole leak, driver's upper corner where a cooling line bolts in, the threaded insert weld cracked) -Water pump (mine squeaks, I assume it's shot) -Lower radiator hose (it's original, if replacing cooling parts, this shall be touched too) -Starter (It's not always engaging the flywheel, get the whirrrrrr sometimes when I turn the key but no crank) -Door hinge replacement pins (already purchased, need to install) Suspect/borderline parts NOT included in shopping cart (only if I want to opt for bonus points): -Motor mounts. Someone twerked the radiator fan shroud, so I can't tell if the motor mounts are bad/squished or if it's truly just a deformed fan shroud. I reassembled the shroud correctly but the plastic is still re-forming/relaxing where it was all mangled and bent, and the fan still chafes it occasionally, but it's 99% better. -Left rear door speaker is blown -Rear wiper motor is shot (horrible grinding noise) -One of the wheels is missing the bowtie center cap. This drives me insane to look at, I'll just need to find a replacement. I've already replaced: -Driver's door mirror -Idler pulley -Tensioner pulley -EGR -MAP sensor -Hood prop retainer -Intake plenum fuel lines -Intake gaskets -Thermostat (and flushed cooling system) -Radiator cap -Radiator overflow reservoir cap And it needs tires, and could use a set of front brake pads, and the brake system flushed. And it could use a transmission service, and if I'm doing that, why not differentials, and transfer case, and oh hell, why not flush the power steering. Is there anything I won't touch? Or...do I just get it to a point where I can send it down the road?

Atlas won. I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged. Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed. Made my day. Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.

I can see MAP data on my scanner. Warm idle MAP reads about 10.3-10.6 inHg which is healthy. Baseline is ~29 inHg (atmosphere) with key off. So that means the engine is pulling about 18.4" of vacuum at idle (29 minus 10.6) which is healthy. No real vacuum leaks that I'm aware of. The MAP sensor appears adequately responsive but I replaced it just in case, and I erased codes and reset the PCM after replacing it. Still getting the code. It's frustrating that I don't have data to verify actual data of the requested vs actual pintle positions of the EGR when the PCM is commanding it. That would really help. That's why I'm going back to basics. A plugged EGR port may be staring me right in the face. Ports were crystal clear when I reinstalled the manifold but that may not mean anything now. It doesn't appear clogged as far as I can see where the EGR bolts on, but farther back/down in the manifold it may be filled with crud again. There's all kinds of carbon still coming out of the exhaust. On cold start as the engine warms, the exhaust drips a little moisture and spits if you goose the throttle. It's truly just condensation, but it leaves a black mess on the floor.

Our local stations' (basically everywhere) diesel fuel has the minimum required cetane and is up to 20% biodiesel, ULSD. *My* truck runs fine on it. (When I'm not dumping the local choke-and-puke's used fry oil in the tank to save money!) - kidding. I'm not sure the documented long crank issues with some of these engines is fuel related, but fuel can certainly always be suspect. Always good to consider bad fuel as a possible cause.

That's part of the problem...the EGR has already been replaced, and I've already had the complete intake assembly removed, and the EGR passages were clear at that time. That leaves wiring, PCM, or another variable that I wasn't expecting. Best I can tell, it's not wiring or the PCM, so I'm grasping for straws. The PCM uses the MAP reading to confirm the requisite loss of vacuum in the manifold when the EGR activates. Since that's vacuum related, it involves a lot of other systems which could play a role. The overall diagnosis has to be considered too. The fuel lines in the intake had rubbed through and were dumping fuel into the intake, drowning the cylinders in fuel, and putting raw fuel into the sump and cat converter. The fuel system has been fixed but the complete path of damage may not be. If the cat was damaged and melted the internals, it could be partially obstructed and also playing into the EGR issue. I'm retracing my steps; trying to go back to thinking thinking Horses not Zebras based on the clues I've been given. These engines aren't *that* complex. Could it be, now that the truck is running well, that carbon and crud from being run with the fuel system in disarray is now dislodging and clogged my clean EGR passages where I can't see? That's what the code is actually saying. The flow is restricted, dummy. Retrace step 1. I may just need to remove the lower intake again. Before I do that I'm going to try removing the EGR and running the engine for a few seconds to see if it will blow anything lodged in the egr passages out through the open ports. That's been helpful in the past. For the spider injector, there's no guarantee I'll get a working one. The spider I have seems fine now that the high pressure fuel line isn't making an early delivery via large hole. SO at least I'm not marooned and looking for one of those. Row52 (dot com) is also a good one for watching for vehicles at local yards.

Retested the connector, seems to test OK. Resistance across the pins on the EGR appear healthy. I didn't have much time last night so I decided to take the Blazer for a drive up and over a mountain pass to put some heat and air into the engine and observe. On the ascent I left it in 3rd gear to keep the RPM up, 2500-3000. Coolant stayed cool, 195-199. I received a P0134 code unexpectedly (Upstream? O2 sensor inactivity) which was weird. I cleared the code and it never came back. O2's are doing their bouncing between lean and rich it appears. After the pass there's a good long 5-7 miles of high speed cruising. I never got P0104/ egr flow insufficient in 4th/OD between 55 and 70mph, so that keyed me to observe that I don't get the EGR code at higher speeds and I don't get it at lower speeds if I keep the RPM higher, i.e. 3rd gear. If I leave it in 4th, P0104 will set as high as 50/55mph on light throttle. In 3rd, it won't set until I'm down to 30mph or so. I don't know what that means, but I think it could mean something. I doubt the old EGR was actually bad, pins test OK. I doubt the new EGR is bad. Something has changed or I've somehow blocked the EGR passage way down inside the intake where I can't see. Or there's a vacuum leak, but the MAP seems to report healthy vacuum at idle and cruising. One thing I don't understand: Ignition advance on the scanner reads all over the place, but mostly negative. -15, -20, -30 seems fairly common. I don't think I've ever seen it positive, it's rarely ever near 0. I read that this can be an issue with scanners and OBD 1.5 simply not reading correctly. I doubt that too. OBD 1.5 was such a narrow period in time, and rare, there's just not a lot of information out there for modern times. I'm at that point, first time in a long time, where I feel like I'm in over my head. This isn't making sense and I don't have the tools I truly need to get to the bees knees on this issue.

Hormuzing: Not today. Ceasefire is ceased, or fired, I'm not sure. Kroger is still at $4.94 but others have inched up to over $5 again.

Sounds like I've got some work to do. Thank you for posting this!

Wire Pinout and Colors Pin A: Brown/White - 5V Reference Signal Pin B: Black/White - Sensor Ground Pin C: Dark Blue - EGR Position Signal Pin D: Pink/Black - 12V Ignition Power Pin E: White (or varies) - Ground Control for EGR Solenoid [1, 2] Understanding the Wires 5V Reference: A low-power current sent by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM - the car's computer) to the EGR. Position Signal: Tells the PCM exactly how far open or closed the valve is. Ground Control: The PCM completes the circuit to actually open and close the EGR valve using this wire. [1, 2, 3, 4] This is what AI is telling me, in absence of access to a complete service manual for the truck. So there are two grounds and I think I determined one of them is bad. I need to run through the test sequence again to validate what I think might be a bad ground. I'll be honest, electrical isn't my strong suit, but I'm learning.

I don't know if you or anyone enjoys it or not but, why not share it. It's GM "truck" related and we're in the right place to discuss that I'm also working on some creative writing skills, I'm not quitting my day job to pursue that, either! As I said, I've hit a wall because I'm not making any progress, and the progress is the fun part for me. The idler pulley and EGR valve came in. Against better judgement, I went out there last night and put both of them in. I was able to get a nut on the back of the bolt on the side with the broken flange. There's enough flange still there that I can get that side of the EGR to snug down. It's not perfect, it's not "right", but this is the fix I have for now. If I decide to keep the rig, I talked to a guy locally who will sell me a complete intake for $100. If it's my truck, a broken flange like that would bug me too much. Yes, I'm crazy. But I embrace it. Pulley on, EGR installed, started the truck. Great...still have a pulley squeaking like mad. That was the first disappointment. I thought I had pinpointed the problem. Before I replaced it, I sprayed the back of that pulley with PTFE and it would shut up for about 30 seconds. Is the squeak actually the belt? I'm frustrated. SO then I decided why not disappoint myself twice, so I took it for a spin and sure enough, the CEL set for P0401 insufficient EGR flow again. I had some extra time, so when I arrived home, I decided to ask AI about my EGR code. We had an interesting conversation. I asked how to tell if my MAP sensor is bad and if that could be setting an EGR code since a bad MAP may not be sensing the requisite drop in manifold pressure when the EGR activates. I gave it the MAP value at idle and it told me to blip the throttle hard and watch the MAP reading. It said no, the values appear normal and it's reactive to pressure changes, and then instructed me to test voltage at the harness. I don't think it's the MAP sensor. Interesting, though, I gave it MAP reading values in inHg, and it thought I was using PSI, so I had to correct it. AI is a very dangerous tool if you aren't treating it like the machine that it is. Then it walked me through testing the EGR and harness. It took me down an interesting path. It was referencing a gray wire and a white wire so I told it I can't tell the difference on my harness because it's dirty and old and both could be white or gray, I'm not sure. So it gave me a more accurate description of the ABCDE pins on the connector and started referencing pins instead of colors. Helpful. The EGR harness has 12v power, and it also has 5v reference power from the PCM. What I'm unclear on is there's a ground wire and I thought AI had said that one of my tests revealed the ground in the harness was likely bad and it instructed me to wire a test ground. I got distracted and navigated away from the AI conversation, and when I went back and asked for clarification it said I must have misunderstood. (how rude- next time I'm saving the conversation!) But I think it was onto something. I recall NOT getting 12v when I tested the power wire to the ground wire, but I did when I tested the power wire, grounding the voltmeter to the engine block. AI said no, the ground wire is actually for the PCM, that's how it commands the EGR on by grounding it and so the circuit should be open with the key on (i.e. EGR off). But I think there's also a static/overall ground that should always be grounded, and if that's bad, then the EGR isn't activating when the PCM commands it on, and thus setting the code. There's a bunch of other tests it suggested, back-probing with the EGR plugged in and engine running. I need to get some time to focus, and not just tinkering after a long day.

I am reminded we actually have a deposit on one. The other half did this before we sorted out our next EV purchase. So, we will be applying for our refund. It was only $50 to save a spot in line. Instead, we will be taking delivery of a 2027 BMW iX3 M Sport in November. Already ordered and the production date is set for September. We considered a Rivian R3, briefly considered a BMW i4, more fun but less practical, and gave the new Scout some scrutiny as well, but we need to replace a car in November so the timing isn't right. We looked at Volvos too but they weren't quite our speed. Nice cars, and I was disappointed to hear Polestar is exiting the US market.

I think the excitement has run its course. Or, probably need a break from the truck for a few days. Win some, lose some, again. There was still a coolant weep from the front of the engine. This time it was one of those worm-drive hose clamps on the upper hose connecting to the water neck. There's a reason the factory doesn't use those type of clamps; they suck. The hose is all distorted and flared at the end from someone over-tightening it. The water neck just needed to be cleaned, hose seated, and have a *good* hose clamp put on, if the hose wasn't so mangled. Thought I'd kill two birds with one stone and try to diagnose the EGR issue. It's likely a failed EGR but before I spent $85 on the part I wanted to make sure ports weren't clogged or the pintle wasn't stuck. It was kind of a bugger to remove with the upper intake installed. Re-install (because I wanted to drive it) proved more difficult. Per the stack of service paperwork, the EGR has already been replaced 4 times since 1996. It would reason, then, that the EGR flange on the lower intake manifold has had its share of techs trying to work quickly and maybe one of them seated a bolt slightly cross-threaded at one time. The bolt didn't come out without significant effort and tried as I did, it wouldn't go in without significant effort. And then, the mounting ear on the right side of the EGR (lower intake casting) cracked, and crumbled off. $%&@!!! I hate everything. Or, at least, I did in that moment. I was pretty calm, considering. This is what older, junky vehicles do. They nickel and dime their owners, piss them off, and things break that shouldn't break because of shoddy design/workmanship, poorly done repairs. If I want to make it right, I'll need to replace the lower intake manifold and basically re-do everything I spent days doing. At least it should go quicker this time, right?! Looks like a lower intake (used/junk, of course) will run me about $150. Once I get the new EGR, I'll see if I can bolt it up snug enough to verify proper operation, and if it solves the persistent CEL that sets on decel for EGR flow, I'll know I'm back on the right track. And then I can decide how to proceed. Also, an idler pulley has given up. It began squeaking in pain on startup. It's clear this truck hasn't been thoroughly driven in a long, long time as things are just letting go and shaking out. I may have given it the beans once or twice to make sure my intake gaskets were doing their job. Flog an old vehicle, expect what it gives in return.

I recall paying $5.00/gallon in 2007 as well, although, different circumstances. A severe windstorm followed by a rare ice storm knocked out power in our region for days. We had a gas generator keeping the fridge cold and our furnace on power, and fuel stations either didn't have power, or didn't have gas because deliveries were delayed because of the storms. Driving around, we found one station that didn't have power but had a sandwich board set up out front. $5.00/gallon. They were hand-pumping it out of the underground tanks. I'm not sure that was legal or even advisable, but we needed it, and they had it. So we filled up. I was just out of college, just bought our house. Times were tight so $5.00 felt really outrageous. Local supermarkets couldn't keep stuff cold so they were basically giving food away. Fridge/freezer cases were literally being emptied out before the food expired. Never seen anything like it before, and until this day this event serves as the boilerplate for our winter storm prep.

Prices didn't rise for the holiday weekend, but then again, how could they? It's already highway robbery. Gas is "down" to $4.96 on discount for 87 here

It's the tires that bother me. If I'm keeping it, obviously it's getting tires. If I'm selling it? Tread is good, and they can be someone else's problem, cracks and all. Or, do I pay it forward and put a basic set of new tires on ($600). I think I know what I should do, it's just not fun.

Fix one problem and find another. Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..." I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts. D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed. Victory lap? It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon. CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while. I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police. P0401, EGR flow insufficient. Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again. At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace. To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes. It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking) It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor. If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.