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newdude

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newdude last won the day on December 4 2017

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  1. We have 5 2018 double cabs that are Oshawa built already. The 2019's they are doing are the "Legacy" 2018 body trucks (all 2019 Legacy 1/2 tons will be Oshawa) and they will also be doing double cab 2019 HD as well (which are still the old body). New body 2019 1/2 ton are Ft.Wayne and Silao.
  2. Your avatar and signature say you drive a 2014. The truck in the video looks like a 2014 with 2016+ up lights swapped into it? If that's the case, anything could be causing this however, seeing the signal is flashing in the mirror, I'm wondering if there is a wiring issue or backfeed issue on the signal circuit or the BCM. I say this because the DRL cancels out at times for the signal to run on the lower portion of that light.
  3. This is going off of our rates at work, but those that drive highway are pulling 60-100k on brakes on these HD trucks. Even our heavy towers get 50-60k on fronts. Winter and plowing use (tends to lead to corrosion buildup on the back sides of the rotors) 40-60k. Taking everything apart once or twice a year to lube and clean prolongs issues pretty good. You should see the buildup of friction material in the grooved areas on brake pads.
  4. Well...having re-read your original post...I see where you say its from the speakers. The fact it didn't do it before the light bar though...its either electrical backfeed (would not be speed specific like your issue) or wind noise from the back of the light bar. Where is the light bar mounted? Roof? My suggestion was based off of experience from a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited that our dealer had lifted by Hi Cal Motorsports in PA. Customer came to test drive it and the noise over 45mph got louder with speed just as you describe. I did some quick research on some Wrangler forums, and found about the door edge molding trick. The back fins on most of those light bars end up causing unwanted noise at highway speeds. Must be the way the air flows over the light (flat face to the light), it distorts over the fins and causes it. Even one piece across the center rib when we started to experiment made a huge difference. We put two more on and the noise was 95% gone. The door edge molding smooths out the airflow over the back of the light.
  5. 19' Silverado Black

    Production fires up July. Crew cab short box is the initial start up variant. I'd expect them to ship August so they should hit lots Late August/September. We've got 4 on order at work, an LT, an RST, an LTZ and a High Country. All 5.3 L84 except the High Country which has the 6.2 L87.
  6. Grab some door edge molding. Cut it to length to fit the back ribs on the light bar. One strip alone you will see a big difference. I'd put 2-4 strips or so.
  7. I'd pull the blower motor out and look for anything inside the motor and the blower box. If that checks out, grab a can of Lysol disinfectant spray and see if you can spray in the blower box towards the center of the dash to reach the evaporator. Another thing to do is set the temp to cold but the AC off and fan on high and spray Lysol through the windshield cowl air inlet. It will draw the spray in and blow it throughout the blower box, duct work, etc. These trucks also have HVAC Afterblow which has to be turned on by the dealer. When you shut the truck off, afterblow will run the blower to dry out the evaporator to prevent odor and mold growth.
  8. The GM Tech 2 system that would work on the 2010 you have pretty much works along the lines of a really good Snap-On/Mac/etc. scan tool. Dealers do also posses some really neat fuel injector tester called the AFIT (Active Fuel Injector Tester) that can do an in depth injector test (balance, flow, etc.) and can pinpoint a weak fuel injector. Do you have just the P0305? If you had a cat issue, it would set a P0420 or P0430. With an awful lot of new parts thrown at it though and it still makes noise and misfires, I'd want to check the lifter and cam.
  9. Unless GM has a BUNCH of reports on such an issue, they don't just have bulletins or special coverages.
  10. I'm going with 5w30 being a more stable oil for the AFM system. The locking pin can be damaged due to oil aeration. 0w20 I bet wasn't holding up as well when up to temperature as 5w30 does. A quart out of 8 total in 6000 miles? That's nothing. Consumption for the Gen V LT engines is 1 quart (or more) every 2000 miles.
  11. My MAC Tools Bluetooth scanner can read my 2016 Colorado ECM data and codes head to toe and screenshot it.
  12. The 0w40 is LT1, LT4 and LT5 validated only (meaning GM tested that oil for those 3 engines only and not the others). Also, the 0w40 ESP is Dexos2 spec, not Dexos1. The trucks require Dexos1. https://www.mobil.com/English-HU/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-ESP-Formula-5W30 ESP (Emissions System Protection) and Dexos2 spec oils are typically found in use in German sports cars and smaller displacement diesel engines, mainly overseas, except for the 2.8 Duramax, 1.6 Cruze diesel and 2.0 Cruze diesel in the US as far as GM goes. Lower ash and sulfur content for DPF protection.
  13. Corsa either the touring (quieter) or sport (aggressive). Borla you can go with the GM Borla that has the flapper valve in just like the factory exhaust.
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