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newdude last won the day on June 27

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About newdude

  • Birthday 09/20/1991

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    2022.5 Silverado LT CCSB 2.7 HO

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Community Answers

  1. So key on engine off and not cranking, are you are getting 75-85psi? You need to be able to read your high side fuel pressure. Sounds like you are only reading the low side. These engines are direct injected engines, so the fuel system has two sides to it. The low side and the high side. Low side is from the tank to the input on the high pressure fuel pump. The high side is the high pressure pump to the injectors so HPFP, fuel rails and injectors. Rail pressure on these DI engines is MUCH higher than 75psi. Engine on idle, it should be making 500-700psi, up to 2500psi at WOT. Cranking psi about 300-400psi. It is quite likely that your high pressure fuel pump is no good and needs to be replaced. I would get a hold of a scanner that can read the fuel high pressure sensor data and see what the pump is making during cranking. There is one other possibility for this code, and its a possible issue where the cam position actuator solenoid valve could be intermittently sticking, but this ones requires some extra diag work.
  2. Welcome! The oil life monitor will count down by time if the truck isn't driven a lot. This is normal. So being you drive it very little, the one year timer takes over if the vehicle isn't driven. Assuming they re-set the OLM at 1500mi, and you don't drive it a lot, it sounds like it has timed out properly to 0%. Typically, its still not a bad idea to change your oil once a year as moisture can build up and potentially cause internal engine corrosion.
  3. Vehicle only, yes. I honestly forgot the new system existed until I put new factory sensors in my summer wheels. I started driving and was lost as to why the tire light wasn't on, and then I noticed all the pressures on the dash were correct LOL. T1 SUVs have this same auto learn system as well, and anything that is coming out with GM VIP (Global B) vehicle architecture as well as time progresses.
  4. Took me a sec to find in on there, but found it buried under oil pump. Alldata is way off on that for sure. 3 hours less than warranty is questionable. It is possible that when enough are replaced in the field that GM may edit their times, but Alldata almost always has procedures at a percentage over warranty, typically 40% time markup over warranty. Another good example of how wrong they can be is just looking at the rear main seal time they show. Nothing on the warranty time on Alldata, shows 2.2 hours to R+R the rear main seal and then has a note "After Trans Is Removed." GM warranty time is 11.9 hours. The tools listed are mostly for holding the balancer on the front of the engine, and then the rear main seal installer if replacing just the seal and not the whole cover. Also, I assume in your last sentence you meant rear cover? Oil pump belt is at the rear of the engine, behind the rear cover.
  5. Squat is normal to an extent. If you have too much tongue weight, no matter the trailer weight, you may get more squat. What is the total weight of your trailer?
  6. Refresh trucks. The TPMS system is now AUTO position learning. Using the tool will do you no good. 13542523 and 84991144 are the current available numbers. I haven't tried any other 433mhz sensors to see if they will work correctly with these yet, nor have I tried any aftermarkets so to my knowledge, the OE sensors are the only ones that will work properly with the auto learn feature. See above.
  7. Labor. Your labor is off. By a LOT. GM warranty time for the belt replacement. Its 10.1hrs for 2wd, 12hrs for 4x4. Non warranty time, its 14.1hrs for 2wd, 16.8hrs for 4x4. Using your same $150 and the non warranty times, that is $2,115 in labor on a 2wd, $2,520 for a 4x4. Also. Parts. Aside from the belt (55493234, $23.27) and sealant (19369831, $39.90), there are a couple things missing on your list. The following are needed in addition: Automatic Transmission Flex Plate Bolt [8x] - $3.70 ea total $29.60, p/n 11548684 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal - $18.57 p/n 55515617 Exhaust System Front Gasket - $13.56 p/n 84763642 Oil Filter - $10.96 p/n 55495105 Transfer Case Front Output Shaft Boot Clamp (4x4 only) - $4.64 p/n 84308104 Transfer Case Adapter Gasket (4x4 only) - $11.11 p/n 86816628 Transmission Fluid Cooler Pipe Seal [2x] - $5.16 ea total $10.32 p/n 23135703 Transmission Fluid Cooler Seal - $5.65ea total $11.30 p/n 25874797 You've got listed the entire rear main cover, GM does not. At 150Kmi, I guess you could go either way with that one because of the rear main and cover issues GM has run into on this engine. The oil pump sprocket bolt is also a re-useable item, but obviously can be replaced if it felt needed to. $4.05 p/n 11548177. So on a 4x4 using book time and all required parts, $150/hr, and also factoring in every part listed at MSRP including the sprocket bolt, that's $177.28 in parts, $2,520 in labor, totaling to $2,697.28. On a 2wd, $161.53 in parts, $2,115 in labor, totaling $2,276.53. If replacing the rear cover ($99.77 p/n 55515618) instead of re-using, it would be $258.48 in parts on a 4x4, $2,778.48 total, or $242.73 in parts on a 2wd, $2,357.73 total. Also. There are 4 GM special tools required as well.
  8. Yep. Big thing is NOT turning the key on at all so the pump primes in the tank. In one of our training videos, they just did a 15 minute segment on this. DEF sinks right to the bottom of the tank, and that means right at the pickup point for the in tank pump. Key on or engine started after putting DEF in the tank means the ENTIRE fuel system has to be REPLACED. Over 50% of their warranty claims on in tank diesel pumps are accidental DEF in the tank and many have been denied warranty. You should see the corrosion that was on those components in the videos...not good.
  9. Fair point. GM did re-tune the 8 speed and so far on mine, it shifts much better than the earlier 8 speeds. I haven't had a hard 1-2 first shift after a cold start even.
  10. Coming up on 1500mi in my 2022 LT HO. Drives just like a diesel, nothing but @ss moving torque from 1500-4500rpm. I'm more than pleased with mine. Can't wait to tow with it. Also OP, sorry for the hijack below lol. Just imagine. A long, long time ago from 1960-1966, the first generation of the C/K trucks debuted. Of the 8 engines they used during that run between Chevy and GMC, SIX of those engines were 6 cylinders, one of the 6 was the GMC only 5.0 V6. When comparing the 292 inline 6, the GMC V6 and the 283 small block they ran, both 6 cylinder engines made the same if not more power than the 283. 3/4 ton trucks used to come standard with an inline 6 then, heck even big class 4 and 5 trucks had gas 6 cylinder powerplants. 4 and 6 cylinder engines were quite normal back then. The L3B may not "sound" like a V8, but they are every bit if not more powerful. 19-22 LTD engine 310hp, 348tq, that's more than the 4.3 they had at the same time, more than the 5.3's GM ran from 07-13. The HO version at 310hp but now 430tq, that's 30 less torque than the 3.0 diesel and the 6.2. Having been pulling some harder runs in mine, this thing feels faster than my 2019 old body 5.3 did. The power hits in a much smoother way than the 5.3 did as well, and a LOT sooner. I have performance timer data on that truck, and I plan on doing the same with this truck for comparisons. Don't get me wrong, I love my V8s. I've had 5 of them. This is my 3rd 4 cylinder engine, two of them being in trucks. The other was the 2.8 Duramax in a Colorado, and that was an absolute lovely setup. So far, I have zero regrets switching to the 2.7 HO.
  11. That won't be under warranty at all. A little less elbow on your next one and it should last longer.
  12. I see two problems here. Problem #1 is you've got the wrong upper control arms, at least from looking at that lower stamped arm. When replacing any of the control arms for 2007-2018, you must look at what you've got from the factory. If you have cast (often referred to as forged) arms, they have a different size ball joint than the aluminum and stamped arms, which both of those two share a ball joint size, which again, different than the cast arms. The arm you have is for cast arm replacement, and not the stamped or aluminum arms. If going with Moog, you need RK623125 and RK623126 which are for stamped or aluminum factory arms. Second issue, the leveling kit I can see at the bottom of the strut. Ideally, you should get upper arms that have better ball joint angles as the stock arms don't hold up the best long term with a level.
  13. Normal. Computer regulated charging system. ECM and BCM can alter the state of charge based on loads, temperatures, etc.
  14. Any dealer, providing they have allocation, should be able to order you a truck. Ordering one is just about the only way to get one now as most everything a dealer has inbound is likely sold already. Very few are for stock. 2023 MY ordering. A dealer can put a truck in their order system right now for 2023, so any of them can do it right now. Initial dealer order submitting started last week. If and when the truck gets picked up to get built is another story. 2023 HD production starts next month on the 19th.
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