Turns out I had to change the value under Equation. After checking, I originally tried A*(9/5)-58 after reading it as a suggestion in a torque forum. That got me closer but values were still too low. I found another answer that said to use A*(9/5)-40. After changing to this, the Method 1 showed the same numbers for trans temp as the DIC. So looks like I am golden now. Here is screen shot showing temps after letting the OBD2 connect and just starting the truck...
So after you suggested this, I looked in the settings and found a "Manage extra PIDs/Sensors. Looking deeper, I did find some GM specific choices. When checking them, they were setup to display value in C⁰ and not F⁰. I did change the value to ⁰F but the readings still seem to be in Celsius still so I will have to do some more research on this. There were 3 different Transmission Temp choices listed, Method 1, Method 2, and Method 3. I added all 3. Method 1 and 2 both showed up but Method 3 was blank. Not sure why but I end up with different temps on each. At least I'm headed in the right dire
So I was able to pick up an OBD2 splitter cable. I have both the Range AFM delete and the BAFX OBD2 reader with live sensor data. Both are urged in now and both seem to work. I am using the Torque Pro app for the sensor data. Surprisingly Trans temp option is not a sensor that the Torque Pro app can read. It does read the coolant temp and I can see how inaccurate the dash coolant gauge is now. It goes right up to 210⁰ and doesn't move. But watching the coolant sensor data, it shows the live temp and even though it was changing frequently, it stayed below the 210⁰ that the dash gauge was readin
I was just the opposite of your scenario. On my 2016 w/20" rims, I had added the Rough Country spacers that gave me about a 2" level on front and matched the rear. I didn't need to change anything else out. I finally got around to changing out the tires last December and went with 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks. This size will give you 33". I have no rubbing at all. Then I finally picked up my 2021 Wildwood FSX Toyhauler in March. It's a 25' and even with correctly setup WDH, my sag in rear, although completely normal, put the rear too low and had my headlights pointed skyward at night. I then add
I like this idea so I want to try running my OBD2 Bluetooth scanner to see what is happening with my various temps. However, I also want to keep my Range AFM delete plugged in because I need to know the stats while running around with the Range plugged in. What are your thoughts about running an OBD2 splitter to accomplish this? I guess I could just try picking one up because they aren't very expensive but thought I would ask for opinions first.
I know on mine, I have the Range AFM disabler so it runs on all 8 all the time. I also have the "towing" package with the 3.42 rear and auto locking rear but I don't have the OEM brake controller. One thing I did notice (but may have just been my imagination or I just never paid attention) it did seem to take a longer before the water temp gauge went to the center 210⁰. It seems like it would warm up pretty quick in the past but seemed to stay just left of center a bit longer. It did finally end up on 210⁰ and stayed there. When I was towing my trailer through the grades in Arkans
Probably nothing. But I have OCD so little things like that tend to drive me nuts. But I found this thread on another forum that gives a decent explaination: https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=56559
So I don't actually drive a lot. Sometimes the truck gets parked for a week between trips. One thing I noticed after the mod while driving about 60 miles or so. Outside temps were around 95 and I got stuck in stop and go traffic on highway for maybe 20 miles or so. The temp on the trans went up to around 183 at highest. After traffic started moving, it finally started to drop but still stayed in the upper 160⁰- lower 170⁰ range. I did the reverse trip today. Outside temps were mid 70's. Traffic was pretty much wide open on highway. This time it still got to 173⁰ but this was cooler than last t
I did pill flip too and got caught in stop and go traffic for about 20 miles on highway in 95⁰ weather and I watched it rise. It ended up going to around 180⁰ but once traffic broke up, it went back down. I know before doing the thermostat hack, it would have been above 190⁰ and would have never dropped below that. So I guess it's a success. But I need to do some more testing in different conditions. Next week will be a big one as I will be towing my camper for first time after mod. Last time I saw temps sometimes reach almost 220⁰ but expect it won't get any where near there this time. I was
I actually enable Developer Mode on all my phones as one of the first things I do after getting it. I went through all of that including even opening developer mode inside of Android Auto after the AA folks had me do it. That can be done by opening Android Auto on your phone, going into AA settings, tap on version info 10 times and then switching developer mode on and off by clicking on the 3 dots in upper right while in AA settings. Like I mentioned, for S8 and Note 8, it's a known problem that none of the involved parties including Android Auto, Waze, Samsung, or Chevrolet seem to be able to
For whatever reason, Samsung Galaxy S8 phones as well as the Samsung Galaxy Note 8 like I had were known for problems with Android Auto. I dealt with it for a while and discovered that there were many others in the same boat. There was a lot of fingerpointing from all sides but no one seemed to want to or be able to solve it. The only solution I found was switching to a newer phone. And I am still using the same USB-C cable that I was originally using on my Note 8 on my Note 20 and it works just fine.
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