So please school me on the thermostat mod. If I understand correctly, the easiest and still reversible way to do it is just to flip the "pill" inside the box. I watched the video above and seems pretty simple. But by doing that, does the trans fluid always circulate through the condenser or radiator and that's why the fluid stays cooler? Is there any downside to doing this, say if I want to tow a trailer, will the trans still stay cooler than if I counted on thermostat to work properly? And finally, can I do this without removing the bolt to get at the clip to pull out thermostat or do I have to remove that bolt to get enough clearance? Thanks...
You are absolutely right about our Secretary of State facilities. It's never an easy in- easy out, they almost always find some issue that needs to be fixed as well. As far as the emissions test, I was told I had to pass all except for one. It could be any of them but as long as all the rest passed, I would pass. One other thing is that there be no DTC and MIL light off. I believe that would be classified as a fail as opposed to rejected which is what I was the first test. A fail would require a trip to a mechanic and certification that the problem had been fixed. A rejection just means you can come back and retest 2 more times without doing anything extra but after 3rd rejection, you would also be required to see a mechanic and documentation on the problem being fixed.
Update... Like I mentioned, I really dont drive that much. So I was keeping an eye on my own OBD Tester and it was still showing Incomplete on the Evaporative System and the EGR System. On Sunday, I had some time to kill so I went out for a drive. I did about 35 miles or so and finally the EGR System showed Complete but the Evap System continued to show Incomplete. I looked back at my previous post and saw that I should have stopped off the tank before driving. I only had 1/4 of a tank when I started. Today, I topped off the tank and went out for another drive. After about 40 miles, I still had Incomplete on the Evap but decided to head to the Emissions site and get it tested anyway. I ended up at about 60 miles by the time I got to the site and this time it passed. The printout also showed Not Ready on the Evaporative System but it passed nonetheless. What a pain in the arse this was. Luckily I am now good for 2 more years before it has to be tested again. Hopefully by then I will be somewhere that doesnt require this nonsense. Or I will pull the Range AFM disabler at least a week or two before I take it back for testing...
Probably nothing. I still have the basic plan for about another year that came with it when I bought new and only really use the remote lock/unlock. I also use my own phone for navigation and such through Android Auto. I have Unlimited data in my phone but can be throttled after IIRC, 25gb. So I did go ahead and order the unlimited wifi for the truck which is $20 a month. This way, I will usually use the truck hotspot for data to save it on my phone. Also when traveling with my young son, he likes using his tablet and even though I can turn my phone data on as a hotspot, that is also extremely limited and having the unlimited data hotspot in the truck is worth it for me. I could be wrong but thought I read somewhere that the truck wifi is able to acquire a signal in many more places than a phone can so it can stay better connected.
And I guess I should have gone to the Range web site first where I would have found this answer. I did drive about 10 miles before the test after unplugging the Disabler but obviously not enough...
Checking with my bluetooth obd II scanner, there were no fault codes but it also showed several sensors were not ready. So my next step will be to drive around for a couple days without the Range disabler, do another check with my obd scanner, and if everything looks ok, back to the emissions testing center. I'm just glad I didnt wait til the last minute. My plates expire the end of March so I have a bit of a buffer...
I really wish I could move but it's impossible right now unfortunately., unless I get divorced and that could turn into an expensive proposition. It's the wife's job and her family keeping us here for now. I do have a basic OBD II tester and it might be worthwhile putting that on to see if any codes are present. But one thing to note was that several sensors listed on the printout that get tested by the Illinois emissions procedure did say not ready or something like that. So it would seem that this might have been a result of using the Range disabler. As far as how the procedure gets done, you drive into the testing area and leave the vehicle running so there is no key off part. They just plug in the cable into the obd port and the testing is done while vehicle is still running.
I really hate Illinois but due to circumstances beyond my control, I am stuck here for at least 10 more years... So Illinois requires emissions testing in NE Illinois every 2 years in order to renew your license plate sticker. I just took mine over to get tested. I do have a Range AFM module that I have been using for the last couple months. I remember seeing somewhere to remove it prior to getting testing done so I took mine off before heading over. The test site is less than 10 miles away. When testing, they now use an OBD tester to check. I figured I would be good because I have never had a MIL problem. When I got the results, it said it was rejected because of the OBD and that it could be a result of a dead battery that had to be recharged. The good thing though is that a fail because of an OBD issue doesnt automatically trigger a trip to a mechanic. I get 2 more tries before I need to do that. So I assume that using the Range AFM Disabler is the reason that the fail happened??? So if that's the case, how long do I need to leave it off before getting it retested? Looks like I will be driving around again in M5 before retesting...
On my 2016, It was under the hood towards the center of fuses and relays. It was an unusual fuse (not sure what its called) that had a clear plastic cover on top with IIRC, a red body and was 30 amps??? The top of the fuse box was a bit difficult to get off but once figuring out how it came off, it was a bit easier to do.
Doesnt appear that they have a option for our 14-18 Silverado models. I use to run into these or something similar back on 80's and 90's GM vehicles because they were prone to having the steering column peeled to expose the steering lock and the ignition cylinder. This was before coded keys and didnt take much to steal them. Even though newer vehicles require a more sophisticated method to steal them, I'm not sure a locking cover on steering column would stop the thieves...
I have a 2016 Crew Cab in the U.S. that has the sliding rear window and I have not received any recall notification. I have also been keeping an eye in the my.Chevrolet.com site and it currently says no recall. Until I get notified of the recall, my 30amp fuse will remain pulled.
Within the last month or so, I have been getting a popping sound from the left hinge of my tailgate. I assume I need to use some kind of grease to take care of this but have been too lazy to do it right now. Would a silicone type spray be ok or should I consider something else?
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