mikeyk101

One thing that comes up over and over is that the torque converters are the weak link. Many of the failed transmissions have the same thing in common. The torque converter grenades and then metal torque converter shards end up destroying the transmission. One of the best things you can do is if your transmission is still fully functional, change out to one of the aftermarket billet torque converters. There are several good choices mentioned in different threads here to make your choice. After that, then you can decide about trans tuning. My trans failed at around 95,000 miles. It got replaced under the GM protection plan. The remanufactured trans comes with a 100,000 mile /3 year warranty. I still have just under 1 year left. So far, so good. As long as it's still working good next year, an aftermarket torque converter is going to get installed early spring. If the trans and OEM torque converter fail by then, I will get it replaced under warranty and immediately have an aftermarket torque converter installed. A warranty replacement trans of a replacement trans will no longer have the warranty so I will bulletproof it from the get go.

This seems like an even better solution than doing the pill flip. I like it!

I have a 2016 that I bought new and still own. I'm around 129,000 miles now. The biggest problem was a transmission failure about 2 years ago around 95000 miles. No warning, just failed while driving down a back road. A reman GM transmission installed and it's been fine ever since. A few other minor problems along the way. I am in no hurry to replace it. It's been paid off long ago and do plan on driving this as long as I can. I will admit I am leery about all the additional electronics in the newer models and feel that it is just more potential problems. I think there's actually more than I would have wanted in this 2016 but so far so good. I think even if something major like lifter failure happened, it would still be cheaper to at worst, drop a new engine in than buy a new vehicle.

I remember reading a while back that someone fixed this after finding exposed wire(s) along the frame rail. I think the insulation got scraped off and was shorting to the frame. Maybe start tracing the wiring from the rear forward. It will be a pain to do this but might help solve the problem.

oops, I need to work on my reading comprehension. Sorry...

I think getting rid of the lower Rough Country spacer is a positive move no matter what you do. I put on the spacers on my 2016 in Sep 2019. In 2022, I decided to remove them in favor of Rancho Quicklift struts. It was a nightmare. The bolts that hold the bottom of the struts on were heavily rusted. With some extra effort, I was able to fully remove the right side but the left side was even worse. I got the nuts off but the bolts were stuck in place. I ended up snapping off both bolts in the middle. I had to drill them out. I even tried using penetrating oil and let it sit on them for some time but no dice. If yours is anything like my experience, you're in for a "fun" time.

I can understand the cargo light part but what would the purpose of having the reverse lights on wile in drive? Or are you talking about the outside lights on the mirrors?

Long story short, I bought those discontinued GM ones back when they were still available. I don't recall how much but it was less than $300 I think. I have a Silverado instead of a Sierra. I bought them because I accidentally customized my front right fender and body shop was estimating $8-900 or possibly more to fix the damage. I took a chance on the flares and they covered the damage completely. They were a bit challenging fitting the rubber lip all the way around the outer edge and getting it to stay in place. But they came out perfectly. As far as coverage, the bottom part goes right around the lip of the wheel well so they cover quite a bit. Just to add, I installed these in Dec 2021 and they still look decent

The expert on this kind of thing is @pgamboa but I haven't seen him on lately. You can try sending him a PM or try looking at his website at https://harnessdr.com/ and see he can answer your question. He does offer an option here. https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-dl8-dl3-mirror-upgrade-pnp-harness/

Take a look at the parts list for the updated TBV. The gasket is listed as a seal. and the orings depend on whether the cooling lines are aluminum or steel.

My go to double sided adhesive is 3M emblem tape. It comes in various widths. The key to making it work best is to clean off both sides thoroughly and completely. This can sometimes be a bit tedious but is very important. I will often use isopropyl alcohol to do this on all involved surfaces after using an adhesive remover. 3M also has an excellent adhesive remover but is a bit pricey. But it works great.

One other thing to mention is that ground problems are becoming more and more evident as these trucks get older. And bad grounds can trigger all kinds of fault codes. I would say that it wouldn't hurt to try and find as many of the grounds you can and clean up the mounts or even replace them if they are questionable. Also failing batteries can also be a source of fault codes. How old is your battery and maybe load testing it wouldn't hurt.

Are you absolutely sure it is the caliper sticking and not the pad binding in the bracket? I had a problem several years ago when I tried replacing the pads with aftermarket ones I bought from O'Reilly's. The pads fit too tightly in the bracket. When braking, the pads were getting stuck against the rotor but would eventually release. I picked up some OEM AC Delco pads and changed out the aftermarket pads and the problem was gone.

One other question. I have seen others use items like the Pedal Commander to reduce lag and better performance. If I just upgrade the throttle body to a Soler, does that eliminate the need for something like the Pedal Commander?

Mostly stock with pretty much no upgrade plans. The only real modification I've done is to use an Range AFM disabler. I've had it for 10 years now so if I was going to do any major mods, I would have done them already. I like the idea though of getting better driveability and less throttle lag. This sounds like something I will be considering soon. Thanks!