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mikeyk101 last won the day on October 5

mikeyk101 had the most liked content!

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About mikeyk101

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  • Name
    Mike K
  • Location
    N/E Illinois
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  • Drives
    2016 Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4 Tungsten

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  1. Im not sure either. It only appeared that once and after performing the function I haven't seen it again.
  2. I had the same concerns when I was recently going to replace my almost 6 year old battery for peace of mind. I almost bought a device that would plug into the OBDII port but decided not to after advice from this forum. After pulling the old battery out and installing the new battery, nothing changed and all presets were still there. Initially the radio came on, it was on station 87.x ( whatever the very first radio channel was ) and I heard static. But a quick check showed the presets were still there and worked. The only thing that happened out of the ordinary was I got a message on the DIC t
  3. You will need a new harness. A member here specializes in these harnesses and makes it a breeze to swap out the mirrors to tow mirrors. I used his harnesses when I did mine. Plug and play... https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-dl8-tow-mirror-upgrade-pnp-harness/ Don't get too hung up on the almost $300 price. When you remove the old harnesses, send those in and you will get $100 back.
  4. Did they just do a standard balancing or did they do a road force balancing? I know on my OEM Goodyears, I had a vibration problem that finally got solved after the dealer did a road forced balancing. I don't remember all the technical details but one of the 4 tires was off and the road force balancing got it corrected.
  5. Yeah, it may go up a bit but usually just on smaller stuff that is hidden. I know when it happened to me over 5 years ago, mine came out to just over $7100 not including the rental car and the insurance company wouldnt total it out. I was kind of hoping they would based on the damage. And this was on a 8 year old truck that would have been worth between $14 and 15k prior to the collision.
  6. In my case on my 2016, I swapped out my old bumper and also used the same harness on the bumper. I also have the rear park assist. When I first finished, I also noticed the license plate lights weren't working. I just went and bought a new set of bulbs and they were working again. But I also was getting issues with the park assist and it didn't seem to be working properly. It seemed like it was intermittent and worked most of the time but not all. I ended up taking off my rear license plate to access the harness connector. I disconnected it and plugged it back in a couple times. Now it seems t
  7. Oops, I spoke too soon, I guess I confused the 14-15 with the 16-18. The #4 and #1 pin are opposite. So on the 14-15, pin #1 is brake light and #4 is the accessory light for bed lights. Sorry... And you will still need at least one of these but might consider picking up a couple. The listing does mention free samples so you might give that a try: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-968857-3.html And then the seal which looks like it's available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Connectivity-828905-1-pcs-SINGLE-WIRE-SEAL-HOLE/dp/B00HKI1HCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywo
  8. From what I get from that bulletin, you would need the harness normally used to have underbelly lighting. Here is one place for it but not recommending this retailer: https://www.gmpartsstore.com/oem-parts/gm-tailgate-wiring-harness-22878806 If you go to the last page, you can see that pin #1 is for the accessory lighting which would be controlled by the cargo lamp switch. Although you could just tap into an always live 12v source to power the interior cap lighting. In the same connector that this harness plugs into, pin #4 supplies power when CHMSL light is activated by brakes. The direc
  9. @15_silverado_wt Download this pdf and it should give you some helpful advice... https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/UI-Bulletin_122b.pdf
  10. I had that happen 5 years ago. Happened early A.M. and my previous truck was parked. Major damage to left rear and impact was so hard, truck was pushed forward about 20 feet and front right tire was pushed over the curb and onto the grass. Funny thing was that our block was only a block long and a "T" on both ends. I still don't know how stupid was able to get up enough speed to do the damage that he did. Of course he took off. I heard the crash but was recovering from surgery so there was nothing I could do. Luckily, my wife had just come home from work and was in kitchen when it happened. Sh
  11. Its probably for some accessory. I'm assuming (which can be dangerous) that you're not the original owner. Check and see if it's powered all the time. If not, check and see if it gets power when cargo light is switched on. My guess is that it was for either bed lights at one time or maybe previous owner had a cap and it was there to power interior ceiling light???
  12. I will confirm that. I have 2" Rough Country level and 275/60R20 (33") tires on. When I would hitch up, my headlights were too high at night. That was the biggest issue. I had a weight distribution hitch and had the front perfect. And the amount of rear end sag was completely normal. If I didn't have the level, I had this dialed in good. But because the front end now was already 2" higher, the sag was a problem. My solution that actually works very well... I could have added blocks to the rear to raise it up but then that defeated the reason for leveling. I added a set of Airlift 5000 air bags
  13. There is no cap that I've ever heard of that mates to factory connectors. All the caps I've owned have had to be wired in. There should have been an aftermarket harness that those connectors would plug in to that gets wired into the truck. Maybe call the manufacturer of the cap and see if you can purchase it? The purpose of those connectors are so when/if you ever wish to take cap off, it can just be disconnected and then reconnected when you put cap back on.
  14. I have 275/60R20 (33") Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires on mine now. They are not LT but are SL tires. When I had the OEM Goodyears on there, I never followed the 32psi but ran it at 35-36psi. It was actually recommended by a Chevy tech one time when I had it in for service and it felt about right. I tried the same with the Falkens for several months. The sidewall under the tire seemed to bulge a bit more than I thought it should. I recently bumped it up to about 41psi. The max cold on these are 51psi. I found I have less bulging on the sidewall now. Also when I had them at 35, it seemed to wander a
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