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mikeyk101

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mikeyk101 last won the day on December 11 2021

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  • Name
    Mike K
  • Location
    S/E Wisconsin
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4 Tungsten

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  1. I got in touch with @pgamboa and found out that he has harnesses to do what I want and just hasn't added them to the product listings on the Harness Dr website yet. I ordered the harnesses direct and he will be shipping them to me sometime soon. I went with Rev 2. The nice thing is that either method keeps the stock amber running light, which is what I wanted. This really should have been a function of the stock tow mirrors and surprised its not.
  2. I think I like the second method better. So the question is how to I get this done. Do you sell a specific harness or is it a mod I would need to do on my own?
  3. I installed tow mirrors on my 2016 Silverado some time ago and picked up the conversion harness from Harness Dr to do it. I've been happy with them and they have been very helpful when towing my toyhauler. I have been wanting to convert the front amber running lights into turn signals. I have seen numerous switchback kits that will do this. However all that I have found have the running lights in white and when turn signals are activated, they display a flashing amber color. I would prefer to keep the amber running light color and then have amber flashing lights for turn signals as well. I haven't been able to find any kits to do this. Is there a specific reason for this? Is there a kit that would do this for me or maybe a harness I can add that will make my existing lights flash amber? I will probably reach out to @pgamboa and ask but wanted to ask here first.
  4. I ended up picking up this tester recently because of issues on my motorcycle and the price wasn't bad. It told me right away that my battery was bad so it got replaced. I wanted something I could use as I have several different things that have batteries I need to keep an eye on. I replaced my Silverado battery last year as it was already 5 years old and had indications that it was starting to go bad. I replaced it with an Interstate AGM battery from Costco. I put the tester on this one and it showed that the battery was healthy. KZYEE KS21 Battery Tester 12V 100-2000 CCA Auto Car Battery Load Test Digital Analyzer for Detect Health Faults, Cranking and Charging System https://a.co/heC6I2s
  5. If you were looking at the Rough Country level, I just wanted to throw my 0.02 cents in. I installed the 2" level back mid 2019. A couple months ago, I decided to ditch the level kit for the Rancho QuickLift struts instead. Removing that level kit was a nightmare. Both bolts on driver's side snapped off in middle and the rest that went through lower control arm was rusted solid in it. I had to get creative to get them out. It took 2 days to do in my driveway. Passenger side was still a bear but lots of penetrant, a 1/2 socket wrench with an extra 3' bar attached along with a mini sledge got those ones out. Just something to consider for later if you ever want to remove it or even change struts. Yes, the kit was cheap and initially did what I wanted but I paid for it eventually in lost time and aggravation when removing it.
  6. Based on earlier posts, it appears that you are running a 6" lift on yours? If so, that would be good info to also post to help sort out your issue...
  7. I ended up picking up a set of the Quick Lift Ranchos for an excellent price (open box $120 each) and decided to give them a try. I don't have the magna ride so that might be the difference. I also couldn't find the Bilstein 5100 in stock either. I was replacing the Rough Country leveling spacer as well as the stock Rancho shocks. The stock Ranchos had seem to do a good job for over 74k miles but at that many miles and 6 years old, it was time to change them out. The RC spacer had worked out pretty good until it was time to remove it. Poor choice in the mounting hardware they use. The bolts had rusted solid into the lower control arm as well as snapping off when trying to remove them. It took a good 2 days of some choice words and creativity to get them out. But I got them off and the new Ranchos finally installed. I picked the Quick Lifts to have some adjustability. They are supposed to be a good choice if you tow travel trailers but I haven't got a chance to try that out just yet with my toyhauler. I tried running them at the factory "5" position which seemed OK. I then slowly worked down to the "2" but found that was a bit loose feeling. I am now running at "6" and that seems about right. I run a variety of slower local roads as well as highway speeds. The lower numbers are supposed to be better for running around town at slower speeds and higher numbers for better stability on highways. I just cant see adjusting that everytime I change up the road conditions so "6" is where it has pretty much stayed for now. The highest numbers are supposed to be for running heavier loads like towing camping trailers. So far the "6" since the break-in has seemed to work out for me. There is one set of railroad tracks that I cross that are pretty rough. This is also right before a turn I have to take. I find if I'm slowing down and foot is pushing on brakes, it is a bit jolting going across. If I slow down before the tracks and take my foot off the brakes, it is much better. If I end up not liking these, I can always change them out later for the Bilstein 5100. I did install the Bilstein 4600 shocks on the rear. One tip I did come across was to remove the 2 screws on small lower panel with dial and remove that. Pack the compartment with grease and then reinstall the panel and dial. It's supposed to keep any corrosion from happening and allow the adjustments to be made easier. Set it to "1" before removing.
  8. In my case, I was getting a P050D first and then started getting a P0301. I ended up bringing it in and it was diagnosed with an injector problem in Cylinder 1 where injector was stuck open. Injector was replaced and it's been fine ever since. Your P0306 points to Cylinder 6 so that would be where I would start.
  9. Just a bit of advice... If you are considering something like the lower Rough Country spacers, I would highly suggest changing out the supplied bolts that come with the kit so you don't run into the problems I did. The bolts in the kit are threaded on the end but smooth sided from about the middle down to the heads. I think fully threaded bolts would be a better choice. I found out the hard way that the supplied bolts basically rusted themselves into the lower control arm and were a bear to figure out how to get out. I would think a fully threaded bolt would have ended up being much easier to remove. Here is a thread that discusses what I ended up with...
  10. 3rd brake light gaskets are available in aftermarket. Here is one that I bought for mine some time ago. I had read about problems with the 3rd brake light leaking here and other forums and figured it would be good to have on hand in case. This particular one had been recommended and had good reviews. Shortly after buying it, I ended up with the dreaded leak. Since mine was still under warranty, I took it to the dealer and let them fix it. They did and it hasn't leaked since. They installed a new oem gasket so at least dealers can get them. Mine is just sitting on a shelf waiting in case it happens again. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174035410493?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nA6hqFjBR_e&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=SX1w3s_iQIW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  11. IMHO, I don't think it made a big difference. It seems to shift as it should. When I first changed to the 275/60's the speedometer read slower by a couple miles an hour than I was actually going and shifting did seem a bit off. Kind of hard to describe. After I did the correction, the speedo is pretty dead on as checked with a separate GPS and shifting seemed normal again.
  12. Just a quick FYI, when I got mine, I plugged it into the truck and it wouldn't work. I don't recall exactly what message was but something about not working on my make and model truck. I thought maybe I got the wrong one. After further reading, I was supposed to hook it up to a computer and use the app to select my model truck as well as do an update. Once I used the RC app on computer, I selected the proper make and model and then after plugging in, it worked just fine.
  13. I just went with the Rough Country calibrator because I didn't really want to get into all the tuning stuff. It was still a bit pricey at just over $200 but did what I needed. I have a Range AFM and between the 2 I'm happy. The RC calibrator can also compensate for rear end gear changes as well if needed. I have 275/60R20 tires on mine now from the stock 275/55R20. Surprisingly I set the calibrator to 32" tires instead of 33" and the speedo is perfect. Not sure why but obviously GM doesn't calibrate for the OEM 32" wheels for some reason...
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