Shortly after getting my Silverado in early 2016, I wanted a decent tonneau cover and went with the BAK Revolver X2. https://bakflip.com/p/bak-revolver-x2-tonneau-cover/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3bbt_uzM5AIVUB-tBh0uogH4EAAYASAAEgJLtfD_BwE It looked good, sat flush, and kept water out really well. It rolled up and also had aluminum slats which gave it strength. When the bed was shut and locked, the bed was secure because the latch was underneath along with the aluminum slats going fully side to side. I ended up removing it after 2 years only because I needed a topper more. BAK now has the X4 version.
The dealership were idiots. The locks they put on were GM Part#92221880. https://www.gmpartshouse.com/oem-parts/gm-wheel-lock-kit-92221880 I assumed that a Chevy dealer would put on the proper locking lug nuts and never gave it a second thought. Obviously they werent paying attention and just put on whatever they had available. Also just to add, I became fully aware many years ago and several 4wd vehicles ago that proper lug torque is very important and failure to follow that can result in rotors warping. I just had to have new rotors put on as I was getting brake pulsing and only had about 36k miles on my Silverado. There was still plenty of pad left and I shouldn't have needed this done for many more miles. I ended up needing 2 new rotors to solve this. I blame the dealership for putting the wrong GM/McGard locking lug nuts on as it would have been impossible to have the locking lug nuts fully seated and torqued as they were too short. But proving this would have been another thing. I sucked it up and just had it done and now have regular lug nuts on all the studs and have made sure that they are all torqued down properly...
Whatever you go with, make sure that they are the right length. Prior to me buying my 16 Silverado, the dealer had installed McGard locking lug nuts. On 3 separate occasions, the center "star" would break off exposing the tip of the stud. On each occasion, I would order a replacement directly from McGard. I had previously registered the lug nuts online with McGard using the card I had received with the locking lug nut part number and pretty sure the info of my Silverado. After it happened the third time, instead of ordering online, I called up their customer service to complain. It was then told to me that I had the wrong locking lug nuts for my vehicle and they gave me the correct part number for ones that were slightly longer. I was so frustrated that I just took the locking lug nuts off and am using stock lug nuts on all the studs.
Is there any other way to access the stake pocket switch location than from the top? I have a topper on and I had previously installed stake pocket covers prior to having my topper put on. I dont quite remember how it looks in there.
I know it's been awhile but I decided to install the level kit myself. I did it yesterday and although not too difficult, it was a bit time consuming. I took my time as I wanted to make sure I didnt make any mistakes. I had tried using the "easy" methods I came across on youtube and it may have worked if I put the bolts up from underneath but decided I wanted to put the bolts in from the top. Especially because I didnt want to have to cut the bolts down to size. I had one bolt on each side that was just not going to go in because of the 4x4 front axle unless I completely unbolted the top ball joint. I had also loosened the sway bar bushings but didnt take them all the way off. I did that and got all the bolts in the way I wanted and got it buttoned back up. An alignment will be next but sometime later in the week. And I will be checking and adjusting the headlights as well. Now to see if I am going to like it leveled... I kept the original bolts but not sure if I should keep those clips that the original bolts screwed in to. If I end up not liking the level and decide to go with Bilsteins or something else, will they come with new clips and/or hardware? I'm just wondering if I should just trash the original bolts and clips.
Just looking for clarification between steps 8 and 9. So after turning ignition back on, when not touching HVAC controls for 3 minutes and then testing temps, am I right in assuming that means the HVAC system should be off, then turn it on and test temps? Or should the HVAC be on for the 3 minutes without touching or adjusting the controls and then test the temps. Also when testing, should it be set to auto, or another setting?
Also take a look at this thread for a harness that can be plugged in to make the install easier. It links back to this forum in 1 post as well but has some good info. https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/81-electrical/948202-topper-3rd-brake-light-wiring-2017-2018-a.html#/topics/948202?page=1
I asked this in another thread but never got an answer and should have started a new thread anyway... Question on condenser replacement... On my daughter's 2010 Ford Escape, I recently had to replace her condenser because of a leak and from all the information I found, it was highly recommended to replace the receiver/dryer as part of the fix. Luckily on my 2016 Silverado, I have not had the dreaded condenser leak, knock on wood. But if I do and end up replacing it, is there anything else recommended to change out at the same time? Or can I simply replace just the condenser, have it vacuumed, and then recharged?
Gotcha. I must have misread the OP but he had mentioned a notification on the NAV screen so I thought he meant on the MyLink under Android Auto selection. My bad. Either way, I am enjoying the new layout on MyLink
I just tried this and it worked perfectly. I do like the new layout. I never got any notification on MyLink about an update so I didnt know anything about it. This makes it a lot easier to use. Thanks.
Question on condenser replacement... On my daughter's 2010 Ford Escape, I recently had to replacr her condenser because of a leak and from all the information I found, it was highly recommended to replace the receiver/dryer as part of the fix. Luckily on my 2016 Silverado, I have not had the dreaded condenser leak, knock on wood. But if I do and end up replacing it, is there anything else recommended to change out at the same time? Or can I simply replace just the condenser, have it vacuumed, and then recharged?
I had used KBB to come up with the trade in value for that Pacifica. And the dealer told me that if that accident hadnt shown up in the report, I wasnt too far off on what they were prepared to offer me on the trade in. Also the loss is not theoretical. Whether it is traded in or not, the value is always going to be different. Vehicles will always depreciate which is a constant until they get old enough to be considered collectible and then could actually start increasing in value. But a fully 100% repaired vehicle will never command the same value as one that is accident free. It will always carry the damaged label until it finally gets scrapped and crushed. And I used to agree with you about a vehicle that was 100% completely repaired. If it is repaired, it should be good as new. Unfortunately, that isnt reality and I learned the hard way. Also just trying to go to the at fault insurance company and asking them to cover the difference is not a good tactic and will most likely fail. He will need documentation showing the actual difference in value. And just the documentation from the trade in dealer will not be enough. A diminished value claim will take some effort and a lot of documentation to be successful. It needs documentation and values from several independent sources to prove the actual difference. Vehicle values are not determined by any single finite method and will vary fgreatly fom different parts of the country and always open to interpretation. I do agree though that if he has a buddy that works at a dealership or has access to someone, he should really reach out to them and get an idea of what he is dealing with and hopefully post back here with the results...
And KBB, NADAGuides, and even Edmund's might be a good resource but isnt what the dealers use and will usually show an inflated value from what a dealer would be willing to pay. It may be good for pricing out your vehicle for a private party sale but not so much on determining trade in value. The dealers use a different resource for pricing the trade ins. They actually use the Black Book which is not publicly available and shows the latest sale prices from the dealer only auctions to decide on a trade in value. It is constantly changing and updated.
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