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mikeyk101

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mikeyk101 last won the day on December 11 2021

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  • Name
    Mike K
  • Location
    N/E Illinois
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado LT Crew Cab 4x4 Tungsten

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  1. 275/55R20 are the stock tire size for 20" 275/45 are going to ride awfully harsh. IIRC, the 275/45 might be for 22" rims
  2. Try switching to another browser. I use Brave and it bounces through this site pretty quick now that a few fixes were made on the site.
  3. Ooops, I saw you already know about this because of your post in other thread.
  4. I found this photo of mine with the factory OEM sticker on the right side. Hopefully this will help you. I will try to find one of the left side as well...
  5. I did and it was the passenger door as well. I would sometimes have to hit the remote link button several times to lock. This also happened when hitting the regular unlock/lock button on the doors as well. Same thing when I would unlock. I could see the button slightly moving and finally pop up. It started off just happening sporadically but got to the point where it happened pretty much all the time. The solution was a new lock actuator for that door.
  6. I just tried that link and same like you, went back to this thread. Try this instead https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/189651-bc-chris-2014-silverado-slz-z71/page/5/?tab=comments#comment-1879718
  7. After getting your new negative cable, you may want to ziptie it as described in this thread. Start reading towards middle of 2nd page with @Dick Lichon post and keep going through the thread to see the example of ziptieing the negative cable... There is a design issue on these vehicles with the amount of stress the negative battery cable places on the post. I got 4 years out of the original and replaced with a AGM just over 1 year ago. Again same negative battery post failure. The bending moment on the post induced by the negative cable fatigue cracks the post inside the battery. The plastic housing holds everything together and you will pull your hair out when temps and moisture cause the air gap in the cracked post to create resistance build up losing voltage and amp draw. Both times mine exhibited starting issues given the amount of amps you need to turn the motor over. Easy way to tell if your post has failed internally is to put a 10mm socket and wrench on the nut of the negative cable and tighten the nut only placing a small amount of torque on the post while someone is trying to start the engine. The post will generally fail on the right side and propagate toward the driver side given the bending moment of the unsupported cable length. There is a hole in the trough above the cable that I used to use a zip tie to support the cable and reduce the stress on the post. You guys may want to do that first chance you get. Hope this helps those experiencing electrical issues that tend to come and go until it finally cracks far enough to put you dead in the water. Regards! https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/243257-battery-replacement/?do=findComment&comment=2463664
  8. You are posting in the 2014-2018 Silverado and Sierrs forum. I think you may have more luck here: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/3-1999-2013-silverado-sierra-1500/
  9. Reverse light fuse is in fuse block in engine compartment and should be #33
  10. Personally I don't think there is an issue with using #31. I had been doing that without any issue for a couple months and worked perfectly fine. But in the previous thread where I detailed my connections, @benelliposted this: "fuse #36 is fine for constant power,but i wouldnt use #31 for switched power. thats for run crank. You can use the large purple 50 amp APO RAP# 10. Thants switched power when key is on" IMHO, that really didn't tell me why. The #31 fuse is actually Accy/Run/Crnk and not just run crank. Since it was simple enough to just switch over to #30, I went ahead and did it. Basically does the exact same thing that I got from #31 but wasn't sure if @benelli knew something I didn't and he never came back to that thread to elaborate further and explain his post. Using the #10 50 amp APO RAP fuse wasn't going to work for my situation.
  11. For my dashcam install on my 2016, I too used those piggyback back add a tap double fuse holders. I used #36 which is a spare and hot all the time for constant power and then used #30 which is SEO ALC for switched power. SEO ALC stands for Special Equipment Option- Advanced Leveling Control which I don't have. So both of those were perfect options to use for me. I had been using #31 Accy/Run/Crnk for switched power and it worked just fine with no issues but was advised that it wasn't a good idea to tap that so I changed that to #30 instead.
  12. Just go up to @bc-chris post above and click on his link. I believe that is what you want...
  13. Bumping an older thread... I too had a bit of rattle on drivers side of dash. It was intermittent but had seen other threads like this as well as running across a YouTube video while I was looking for something else. Mine was also the tiny bolts under that lower panel. All 4 were loose, one had backed halfway out and other 3 were loose. I tightened them all up so I should be good. Here is the YouTube video I saw that details it https://youtu.be/SYwx4unMG2U And I had almost forgotten, back a couple months ago when doing my dashcam install and hiding the wiring in headliner, I ended up needing to remove the roof console that has the Homelink and sunglass holder. I discovered that the 2 screws there were loose as well. After dashcam wiring was done, I tightened those screws up as well. Hopefully tightening the screws/bolts in these 2 spots eliminate the intermittent rattles. I'm pretty sure it will.
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