Well I guess I will just have to live with it then. The brakes function just fine but the noise is a bit irritating. It's also a bit embarrassing because a truck this age shouldn't be making these kind of noises. I have had it on other vehicles a time or two but they were also considerably older.
This seems to have just started. I have a 2016 CCSB LT with just over 47000 miles. When stopping and pressing on brake pedal, I can hear a creaking that sounds like it is coming from the rear. I definitely hear it on drivers side bit not sure about passenger side. While stopped, if I push further on the brake pedal, I can also hear the creaking sound as well as when I ease up on brake. I have tried the old standby of driving in reverse and quickly stepping on brakes. I know that was the method used for rear drum brakes to make sure they were adjusted so figured it was worth a try. This made no difference and creak continues. Also I tried fully activating the parking brake several times as well and no luck. So can anyone point me in the right direction to quiet this creaking? I have seen threads where the rear leaf springs can cause creaking but I'm not sure how this could be happening if I am stopped and not moving. I am going to be bringing it to my dealer soon anyway because it is due for oil change and I'm having another issue with passenger front door and pretty sure it needs a new lock actuator which will be taken care of under the extended warranty. I know I could change the oil myself but for the price and time savings, I just let the dealer do it. And then its documented for the extended warranty as well...
So, theoretically of course, let's say someone was to accidentally back into a tree and crease the bumper like this photo, is it possible to pound it out or will it just need to be replaced? Not admitting to anything, asking for a friend...
Just wondering if anyone else is having a problem with the forum fully loading? When I open up the 14-18 forum, it only loads the first sticky topic in each forum then is blank until I get to newly posted or updated topics. This also occurs in the subforum. I only seem to be having this problem on this site. Other sites I go to load fine...
Surprisingly it only took 5 days to get delivered for me. Like I mentioned, because of the circumstances, I ended up getting an OEM one installed by the dealership just under the wire on my BtoB but will have this one ready to go if/when it happens again.
Yes, it is the CV joints that get in the way. If I had a way to properly cut the bolts down, I would have gone that way myself. I guess I could have just run out to the Menards or Home Depot and got the right sized bolts but at the time, part of the front end was in pieces so I had no way to get there, LOL!
The one thing I see with doing the bolts from the top down is that changing out the struts when its needed wont be too easy. From bottom up, it is a much simpler job. However. The bolts used are too long and would cause interference. Some have solved this by cutting down the bolts. But with that being said, I did follow the Rough Country installation directions and installed them from the top down. Hopefully it wont be for awhile but dreading the time when the struts need to be changed out...
I may be wrong but the distribution block you linked to looks like the part that mounts over the battery and not the fuse box. If you are replacing the fuse/relay block, I think this is what you need. And I agree that to make relays integral into the fuse block is just plain stupid... Fuse/relay block
As far as Lojack, the way it works is that first you have to notice that your vehicle was stolen. Let's say you go to bed at 10:00 and the vehicle gets stolen at 10:30. You dont notice til you go outside at 7:00 the next morning. The thieves already have a considerable head start. Now once you notice your vehicle stolen, you call the police and have them come out to make a report. Hopefully you can remember your license plate or have the VIN # (usually on your insurance card). The police will then run your plate or VIN and verify the information. Once the report is completed and approved, the police will then enter the vehicle info into the NCIC database as long as they can verify your vehicle information. Only then after the info is entered into NCIC can Lojack activate their locator. This can sometimes be several hours after you discover your vehicle gone. And if you dont have any of the vehicle information and police are unable to verify it, it cant be put into the NCIC database and Lojack cannot activate their locator. Here is another thing. Lojack depends on police cars that have their locator equipment in them. I can tell you that you will be hard pressed to find a squad car equipped with it. There is no other way to do it. On top of that, the equipment used is very primitive. The squad has to be within a couple miles to even start trying to find the vehicle. The way this works is that a combination alpha and numeric code will begin scrolling across the display. The officers then need to radio their dispatcher with the coee and hopefully the dispatcher knows how to run it. If they do, they will be given the make, model, color and identifiers for the stolen vehicle. Then their is a signal strength indicator to give the officers only a rough idea how close they are. There is also a circular indicator that shows the direction where the signal is coming from. They then have to drive in the direction and pay attention to the signal strength meter and try to get within range of the stolen vehicle. Hopefully the stolen vehicle is somewhere outside and visible but many times will be somewhere inside and no way to verify exactly where the stolen vehicle is. It is basically a crap shoot if they are able to find it. Anf this is also dependant on the thieves not knowing anything about LoJack. If they do, there is a good chance they will be able to find the locator and disable it. If that happens, game over... So you can see that Lojack is a complete waste of money. They are happy to take your money and make you feel good about their system. But as you can see, it leaves a lot to be desired and they wont tell you about this.
Yeah, I bought it last night but wont be here for a couple days. And wouldnt you know that today is when I find that I have the leak. My thoughts were that I could wait a couple days and just replace it myself. But I figured that since I still had a couple more weeks on my bumper to bumper warranty, I would let the dealership do it and see what they would do to take care of it. I think they did a pretty good job. I will just toss the new gasket on a shelf in the garage and save it for if (although it's probably more like when) I need to replace it. The next time will be on my dime anyway...
So I ended up ordering that gasket last night but on ebay as Amazon wasnt going to deliver it until after Apr 21st. It should be here in next couple of days... Either way, I procrastinated too long. Today, I was getting ready to bring the truck into the dealership to have oil change. When getting my son into his booster seat in the back, I noticed the carpet under the rear seat was wet. Rutroh! I then felt the back wall behind rear seat and it was wet too. I looked up at the headliner and the tell tale staining was on both the rear passenger and drivers side! So since I was going to dealer anyway, I had them take a look. Sure enough, the theird brake light gasket/seal was leaking. Luckily I still had 2 more weeks left on my Bumper to bumper coverage. The repair cost me nothing. I dont know what they used but they got rid of the staining on the headliner and dried out the back wall and carpet very good. So I should be good now for awhile. I just cant believe that this could be an issue so soon and have seen many threads about this happening even sooner. That's a bit ridiculous for the amount of money that paid for these vehicles. So now I have experienced a leak from both the sharkfin and the 3rd brake light. Hopefully it will hold for a while. Luckily I will have a nice thicker replacement gasket for the 3rd brake light if it happens again... When can I expect my rear slider window to explode, the trans to crap out on me, and of course, the lifters to fail???
I have searched high and low and cant locate the thread. Luckily right now, my third brake light does not seem to have a leak but my sharkfin was replaced last year because of leaking. I want to be preemptive because I'm convinced it's not an if but when my brake light starts to leak so I want to replace the gasket. I remember seeing a thread that recommended an aftermarket thicker replacement gasket and several mentioned they had used the replacement with excellent results. I think it was a VIPMOTOZ gasket that can be bought at Amazon but for the life of me, I cant find that thread again. I just wanted to confirm it before ordering. The good thing is that it's only about $7 and free shipping.with Prime so I wouldnt be out much if I'm wrong but I'd like to just replace the gasket once and be done with it. So can anyone confirm this is the one that was mentioned? VIPMOTOZ Gasket on Amazon
So please school me on the thermostat mod. If I understand correctly, the easiest and still reversible way to do it is just to flip the "pill" inside the box. I watched the video above and seems pretty simple. But by doing that, does the trans fluid always circulate through the condenser or radiator and that's why the fluid stays cooler? Is there any downside to doing this, say if I want to tow a trailer, will the trans still stay cooler than if I counted on thermostat to work properly? And finally, can I do this without removing the bolt to get at the clip to pull out thermostat or do I have to remove that bolt to get enough clearance? Thanks...
You are absolutely right about our Secretary of State facilities. It's never an easy in- easy out, they almost always find some issue that needs to be fixed as well. As far as the emissions test, I was told I had to pass all except for one. It could be any of them but as long as all the rest passed, I would pass. One other thing is that there be no DTC and MIL light off. I believe that would be classified as a fail as opposed to rejected which is what I was the first test. A fail would require a trip to a mechanic and certification that the problem had been fixed. A rejection just means you can come back and retest 2 more times without doing anything extra but after 3rd rejection, you would also be required to see a mechanic and documentation on the problem being fixed.
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