mikeyk101

I remember reading a while back that someone fixed this after finding exposed wire(s) along the frame rail. I think the insulation got scraped off and was shorting to the frame. Maybe start tracing the wiring from the rear forward. It will be a pain to do this but might help solve the problem.

oops, I need to work on my reading comprehension. Sorry...

I think getting rid of the lower Rough Country spacer is a positive move no matter what you do. I put on the spacers on my 2016 in Sep 2019. In 2022, I decided to remove them in favor of Rancho Quicklift struts. It was a nightmare. The bolts that hold the bottom of the struts on were heavily rusted. With some extra effort, I was able to fully remove the right side but the left side was even worse. I got the nuts off but the bolts were stuck in place. I ended up snapping off both bolts in the middle. I had to drill them out. I even tried using penetrating oil and let it sit on them for some time but no dice. If yours is anything like my experience, you're in for a "fun" time.

I can understand the cargo light part but what would the purpose of having the reverse lights on wile in drive? Or are you talking about the outside lights on the mirrors?

Long story short, I bought those discontinued GM ones back when they were still available. I don't recall how much but it was less than $300 I think. I have a Silverado instead of a Sierra. I bought them because I accidentally customized my front right fender and body shop was estimating $8-900 or possibly more to fix the damage. I took a chance on the flares and they covered the damage completely. They were a bit challenging fitting the rubber lip all the way around the outer edge and getting it to stay in place. But they came out perfectly. As far as coverage, the bottom part goes right around the lip of the wheel well so they cover quite a bit. Just to add, I installed these in Dec 2021 and they still look decent

The expert on this kind of thing is @pgamboa but I haven't seen him on lately. You can try sending him a PM or try looking at his website at https://harnessdr.com/ and see he can answer your question. He does offer an option here. https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-dl8-dl3-mirror-upgrade-pnp-harness/

Take a look at the parts list for the updated TBV. The gasket is listed as a seal. and the orings depend on whether the cooling lines are aluminum or steel.

My go to double sided adhesive is 3M emblem tape. It comes in various widths. The key to making it work best is to clean off both sides thoroughly and completely. This can sometimes be a bit tedious but is very important. I will often use isopropyl alcohol to do this on all involved surfaces after using an adhesive remover. 3M also has an excellent adhesive remover but is a bit pricey. But it works great.

One other thing to mention is that ground problems are becoming more and more evident as these trucks get older. And bad grounds can trigger all kinds of fault codes. I would say that it wouldn't hurt to try and find as many of the grounds you can and clean up the mounts or even replace them if they are questionable. Also failing batteries can also be a source of fault codes. How old is your battery and maybe load testing it wouldn't hurt.

Are you absolutely sure it is the caliper sticking and not the pad binding in the bracket? I had a problem several years ago when I tried replacing the pads with aftermarket ones I bought from O'Reilly's. The pads fit too tightly in the bracket. When braking, the pads were getting stuck against the rotor but would eventually release. I picked up some OEM AC Delco pads and changed out the aftermarket pads and the problem was gone.

One other question. I have seen others use items like the Pedal Commander to reduce lag and better performance. If I just upgrade the throttle body to a Soler, does that eliminate the need for something like the Pedal Commander?

Mostly stock with pretty much no upgrade plans. The only real modification I've done is to use an Range AFM disabler. I've had it for 10 years now so if I was going to do any major mods, I would have done them already. I like the idea though of getting better driveability and less throttle lag. This sounds like something I will be considering soon. Thanks!

Just an fyi, even though the gauge in the dash may be pointing at 210, that isn't what the actual temperature is. The temp can be anywhere from 185⁰ to 220⁰. If it drops off the 210 mark, it is already falling below 185⁰. And likewise if it goes above the 210 mark, it is already heading past 220⁰. The only way to know the actual temperature is using one of the OBDII readers that monitor live conditions.

I see that I would need an adapter for the 91mm if I want to use it in my 2016 5.3l Silverado. I also see this 80mm one that lists it works with the 5.3l motors. https://www.solerengineering.com/generalmotors/se7792-80 What differences would I see between the 2? Why would I want one over the other?

This is right up @GMCustomerService alley! I'm sure they would be glad to help you on this!

This is my biggest fear about buying off a used car lot. Too many dealers just don't do the due diligence in fully inspecting before putting the vehicle up for sale. I get why the previous owner(s) traded it in and don't really hold it against the previous owner. But I went through a similar thing last summer with helping my daughter trade hers in and trying to purchase a used replacement. She did provide full disclosure as hers was already in their service department because of a problem. The first choice lasted about 3 hours before her brakes completely failed while driving down expressway going to work. She was extremely lucky she didn't crash or worse, get killed. Vehicle towed back to dealer and they "bought" it back right away as there were other problems that showed up then too. The next replacement lasted only a couple days and first they agreed to fix but then ending up buying that one back because of numerous other problems that were discovered. Other bad part was that both were being partially financed. And SOP is for the financing to be secured prior to vehicle ownership being assumed and driving off the lot. And each one was a different approved loan after numerous applications were submitted. Big ding on my credit because of multiple inquiries but no other issues on credit history. Funny thing is while her car was still at dealership after being traded to them, a recall came out addressing the exact problem she had. Had it been issued just a bit earlier and her notified sooner, I would not have had to go through this aggravation. Final result was her vehicle got fixed and she eventually got possession of it back and has been driving it ever since. ETA: I forgot to mention, the dealership was really good about providing a loaner car throughout all this. It was a brand new vehicle from the dealership. After the second "replacement" car was taken back, they let her use the loaner until the work was done on her original vehicle. One night at work while she was parked in her parking garage, someone clipped the front side of the loaner and took off. Since my daughter is on my car insurance, I filed a claim with my insurance. Earlier this year I got a notification from my insurance that they were not going to renew the vehicle policies. I had been with this company for 45 years. They counted this hit and run claim against me, a windshield replacement on my Silverado 3 years ago, a windshield replacement on hers around the same time and a minor accident 4 years ago by her (her fault) and an accident with me 2 years ago( my fault) . A bad string lately I admit but many, many years of no claims. And I thought windshield claims didn't count against this and the latest was a hit and run of a parked vehicle! I guess loyalty no longer matters anymore...

When mine failed, I got 0 warning. 8 years old and about 95k miles. I was driving down a back road in Alabama on a road trip. One minute, working just fine then I tried accelerating and it began slowing down with rpm's shooting up. No abnormal noise either. I had to roll to the side of the road and wait for the tow truck.

When the thermostat on my 2016 failed 3 years ago and was sticking open, I noticed that the temp gauge would not go all the way to the 210 mark in the winter and although there was some heat, it wasn't what it should be. I first replaced it with a Motorrad aftermarket thermostat and within months, that failed and want opening all the way. I switched to a GM thermostat and haven't had any trouble since. So I agree with the above posted comment by @JimCost2014. But I also went with a 194⁰ GM thermostat instead of the stock 207⁰ one because I do occasionally tow and wanted to give the system to start getting the benefits of the radiator sooner. But if your temp gauge isn't moving at all then @CamGTP has the answer you need.

I would say your transmission is toast and you will either need to rebuild it or get a new transmission. Known problem with the 6L80 transmissions. And I believe GM no longer has "new" but are rebuilds. And I highly suggest if you do either, go with an aftermarket torque converter because the GM ones are part of the problem. They begin to self destruct and then metal parts and shavings end up inside trans and kill it.

What about the actual wiring that comes from the body into the door? Maybe the part of the wiring got nicked and is shorting out? Or one or more of the wires actually broke? And sometimes you can't tell just by looking as the insulation can hide the breaks.

Don't give in and keep on them. Hopefully the dealer wises up and stops using this 3rd party installer.

No harm, no foul. A simple mistake that I'm sure a lot of us could make. At least you caught it. Keep the thread updated.

Actually any time the needle is pointed directly at the 210⁰ mark, the temperature could be anywhere from 185⁰ to 220⁰. Once it even slightly moves down off the 210, it is actually falling from 185. If it rises above the 210 mark, it is already going higher than 220⁰. Having the needle steady during a range of temps, I think GM just wanted to lessen concerns about temperature variations.

Are they 100% sure that it's the starter going bad? Are they testing it after it is removed? The reason I ask is that 2 years back, I had driven my son back to my Ex's place. I get back in to drive home and starter apparently isnt working. I had to have tow truck come out to confirm and then they towed my truck to my local dealer. Still was under warranty. They determined it was a "bad" starter and replaced it based on my symptoms and not sure if they ever really checked to make sure the starter was bad. Several months later, same thing. This time I assumed a bad battery and swapped it out, also a warranty exchange from Costco. New battery, still no start. I happened to be using an older Range AFM disabler and pulled that out to plug in an OBDII reader and check for codes. Suddenly the starter works. While driving around the neighborhood, I plug the Range disabler back in and immediately get a check engine light. I ended up getting in touch with Range Technology and they agree to swap my old one with a brand new one. I have been using the new disabler since then and the problem hasn't returned.

So basically 1 ugga dugga?