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mikeyk101

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Everything posted by mikeyk101

  1. I'm still experimenting with the Rancho Quicklift numbers. I started at 6 which I thought seemed a bit stiff. Then 5, then 4, etc... I am now running 2 and mostly like the ride. I did notice the kind of floaty feeling you mentioned but its not too bad IMHO. It has a cushy almost original OEM feel like when the stock Ranchos were still new. It does have a tendency to drop hard when going over larger irregularities on pavement. It's kind of hard to describe but seems like damping at 2 is a bit diminished. Like I mentioned, I have the Bilstein 4600 rear shocks. But I also have AirLift bags on the rear as well. The front and rear seem to be level and pretty much what I had with the Rough Country Level kit. I did try bumping up the psi in the AirLift bags form the minimum of 5psi to 10psi and that seemed to help with that floaty feeling. I may try going back up to maybe 4 or 5 with the AirLift bags at 10psi and see what effect that has. The big test will come on my next trip pulling my toyhauler. It's a 25' and when fully loaded along with my trike, it probably comes in around 6200lbs. I'm hoping this will be a winning combination and give me some decent control when traveling. Just one other thing, I found info from several sources that recommended setting the Quicklift knob to 1, remove it, pack it with grease, and reinstall the knob. It's supposed to help prevent corrosion in there and help keep the knob from freezing up. I did this and although a bit early to tell, it's very easy to adjust it.
  2. This may be an obvious question but do you have the OEM brake controller on the dash? Or do you have an aftermarket brake controller?
  3. Just throwing this out there, sometimes weeping seals are are result of a blocked breather. Definitely something to check out while addressing the leak...
  4. Are you ever going to provide any actual informational help in these threads or just continue to make these generic useless posts telling the poster to contact a random email? Your posts do not contribute any useful information to any of these threads. My guess is almost no one ever contacts your email as it probably wouldn't do any good anyway. I'm guessing that's why you disappeared and stopped posting for so long.
  5. I just went through removing my Rough Country 2" level spacer blocks to change out my struts. The RC level kit goes on bottom. It was a serious challenge. I installed the level kit about 3 years ago. The hardware left a lot to be desired as far as durability. Because of the added thickness, obviously the stock lower bolts would not work and the new bolts that came with the level had to be used. On the right side, they had rusted in to the lower control arm pretty good. But using a lot of penetrating oil, a socket wrench with a 3' extension as a persuader, I was finally able to get them to bust loose a bit and hammered them out. I didn't get so lucky on left side as when I used my persuader set up, both of them snapped about midway on the bolts. I ended up having to basically drill them and then hammer the snot out of them. The other thing to mention as far as the RC level, the bolts, according to instructions, get mounted from top to bottom unlike the stock strut lower bolts that go up. In order to install, it calls for unbolting the sway bar as well as unbolting the upper ball joint and the steering arm so the knuckle can be moved out of the way. A bit of a project. The biggest reason this has to be done is that otherwise one of the new mounting bolts if going up will cause interference with the CV drive shaft as well as not being able to install that bolt. And once you do this, if you ever have to change out the struts, you will have to go through this all over again. After my experience, IMHO, if you never plan on changing the struts out, by all means, go with lower spacer. But the upper option would probably be easier later on as it's a bit more protected from the elements.
  6. I'm just curious but how often do you have it in 4wd auto? Do you leave it there all the time?
  7. Both sides are now done!!! Now it's dinner time but after that, I will put the wheels back on.
  8. Well 1 down, 1 to go. I started drilling starting small going larger until I snapped part of the 4th drill bit off in the hole. Well this sucks! So I went back to the BFH and began wracking from bottom and then on top. It finally started moving. I finally got it far enough up that I put a pair if vice grips on it, wiggled it back and forth a bunch of times and got it out. Not sure if trying to drill it out was the key but I'm sure it helped. Now the other one is mushrooming on the bottom and I'm sure that's going to be a problem. And I am having a very difficult time trying to get the drill in there. Still working on it.
  9. Oh joy! Now I have 2 snapped off bolts to deal with. I was able to get everything back together on right side but haven't put wheel back on yet. I moved back over to left side and began to tackle lower strut bolts. They still were in there good. Out comes the 15mm socket on the 1/2" socket wrench along with the 3 foot persuaded bar. Finally got 1 bolt to move and then a loud crack. I moved over to the 2nd one and got that one to move slightly and another loud crack. I pull out first one only to find the bolt actually broke. Same with 2nd. Now I gotta figure out how to get the rest out. I was under the impression that these bolts just slid into those lower holes and weren't threaded. I sprayed top and bottom down real good with some penetrating stuff. I did try a BFH both from top and bottom but they aren't budging. I also tried locking a set of vice grips to the bottom of the bolt and same thing, won't turn. I'm just going to let it sit for a couple hours and see if that doesn't help. I'm not really interested in trying to drill these out but it may come down to that. Not real impressed with the Rough Country hardware right now...
  10. Normally you would be right and there would be no reason to even mess with the upper ball joint. But I followed the instructions from RC when I installed the level kit. It called for installing both of their bolts from the top down because the bolts were quite a bit longer and going from the bottom up would have possibly caused interference with the CV shaft. And in order to get that long bolt in, the upper ball joint needed to be removed so the knuckle and shaft could be moved over a bit for clearance. The "fix" that some have done is to ignore the official RC instructions, cut or find and use a slightly shorter bolt, and install bolts from the bottom up. I blindly followed the official instructions. I didn't think ahead when I installed the level and didn't take into consideration that one day I would be changing out the struts. If I had gone the other route with at least one shorter bolt and from bottom up, I wouldn't be in this predicament right now. But then I wouldn't be having this "awesome" time dealing with all these rusty components and pulling my hair out. This is par for the course. I just got done dealing with a leaky pinion seal and drive shaft issue on my trike that had been one headache after another. Then this came along. At least it gives me something to occupy my time...
  11. Well I answered my own question... New bolts are going to be used. I can't believe how rusted things got under the front end since I did the level kit. The rear shocks were a breeze to do but I'm bogged down on the front end. I jacked up the front end, put jack stands under there, pulled both tires and loosened just about everything to make it easier. On the left side, after removing the nut for the steering arm, it refused to pop out. It took many, many whacks with mini sledge to get it off. Stabilizer end links were almost impossible. I finally got it off after a liberal dose of penetrating fluid along with a socket wrench using a very long bar. Even the impact wrench wouldn't budge it. The stabilizer bolts ended up being completely rusted from top to bottom. The nuts for the lower shock mount came off fairly easily with impact wrench but the bolts refuse to move or come out. I finally had enough and decided to tackle the right side. I found same problems there as well with stabilizer end links and lower shock bolts. Surprisingly the steering arm popped out easily with just removing the nut. I got nut off holding knuckle to upper control arm ball joint and was able to maneuver the knuckle out of the way to get bolts pulled from lower shock mounts. Again I had to use the socket wrench with long bar attached to persuade those bolts to get moving. Once they did, they still didn't want to come out so a hammer to the bottom of the bolts got them to finally pop up. I finally got old strut out and that looked pretty bad. Lower body completely rusted up as well as the springs. So now the new Rancho Quick Lift got put into position, new bolts and nuts on lower mount as well as new nuts for top. I got the steering arm back in and nut mostly tightened. Then using a pry bar, I got the upper ball joint stud back into the knuckle and began tightening it. This is where I'm stuck. I was using a 7/32" Allen key and got it almost done but got side tracked. When I got back to it, the 7/32" now seemed a bit loose and I couldn't hold it enough to tighten the nut. I tried to see if a metric Allen key would work but the 5mm was way too loose and the 6mm wouldn't fit in. Next up was torx bit Allen wrench. The T40 fit in there very well and I was able to tighten the nut all the way. But... then I couldn't get the Allen key out because it was tight against the CV joint. So I had to loosen the nut again, whack the knuckle with the mini sledge and then there was enough room to be able to remove the Allen key. It was time to call it a night. Tomorrow's another day and I have a better idea on how to get that nut to tighten. I should have that side finished pretty quick in the morning. Hopefully the left side goes a little easier. Most of the stuff is already loose so I should be able to get that done rather quickly. Famous last words...
  12. So the day has finally come where I am ditching my RC leveling kit and installing new struts. I know many have gone the Bilstein 5100 route but I decided I wanted to give the Rancho RS999949 a try. I got them at a great price so I figured why not. But I have also been dreading this day because by putting the Rough Country leveling kit, I just created more work for myself. I know that some recommended to install the bolts on the leveling kit from underneath but I didn't do that. I installed them from top down like the RC installation instructions call for because I didn't want to screw around with cutting the front bolt. So now I have to figure out the easiest way to get those front bolts out. Usually though, when I try to find the "easy" way, it ends up being way more difficult than it has to be. I am going to see if there's a way to get a saw in there and just cut the bolt. I'm probably going to end up undoing all the parts and components I had to do to get the RC spacers installed. We shall see... But, one question I cannot seem to find an answer to. I ended up saving the original stock lower strut bolts along with those clip nuts. The Rancho Quick Lift setup comes with new bolts and individual nuts. The Rancho bolts are just a tad shorter than the stock ones. Would I be better off reusing the stock ones or using the new Rancho ones? I kind of like the OEM setup as you only have to tighten the bolt from the bottom as opposed to the new that require tightening from the bottom as well as get a wrench on the top nut to hold it. I know it's only one more step, just curious how others would handle this.
  13. Please update this in a month or 2. I saw several reviews talking about this camera failing shortly after installing it.
  14. Click on the link and head towards the bottom of page, then click on the before/after images. It seems to be a pretty good improvement.
  15. Here is a replacement gasket I ordered. I had seen decent online reviews for this and it's supposed to be better than the OEM gasket. However, before it arrived, I ended up with the dreaded third break light leak and ended up bringing it in to the dealer to have them fix the leak under warranty. So the dealer installed a new OEM gasket and I now have this one as a spare in case the leak comes back. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174035410493?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nA6hqFjBR_e&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=SX1w3s_iQIW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I forgot to add, to keep this post on topic, I checked my third brake light last night and mine still works fine. But like @Spurshot mine is hidden behind my Century topper so if it goes out, not a real big deal...
  16. Have you played around with the adjustment knob on the Ranchos and what number are you using?
  17. Although I don't have the magnaride like you, I too am going to replace the struts and have decided to go with the Rancho Quick Struts for the front. I did just put the Bilstein 4600 on the rear and do notice an improvement in ride quality so I might as well tackle the fronts as well. I thought about the Bilstein 5100 for front but didnt want to have to deal with swapping the springs and the Ranchos come as a complete unit, ready to install. Good to see that you like the Ranchos on the front. I have the Rough Country spacer on front to level but would like to ditch that and level with struts alone. I did find an Amazon Warehouse deal on the Ranchos and decided to take a chance. I will have them next week so we shall see...
  18. I didn't even have to jack it up or remove the tires. I just shimmied under the truck and got it done. As you can see, the lower mount is very accessible. I was worried about reaching the top mounting bolt but there was also more than plenty of space to get the air impact wrench up there. I didn't even need to drop the spare.
  19. Finally upgraded my rear shocks. I went with the Bilstein 4600. I went with these because they have been recommended as a decent choice for towing. And even though I have the RC 2" level on front, I'm still stock height on the rear. I figure at about 6 years old and 74k in miles, it was time to change them out. It was stupid easy. I sprayed some penetrating oil on bottom nut and threads and the air impact wrench took that right off. I used a 21mm socket but didn't have a 21mm wrench. I did have a 13/16" wrench which worked perfectly. Top one only needs the bolt removed, no nut. One thing to mention is that the Bilstein shocks don't come compressed so I mounted the top mount first and muscled the shock into position. After pushing shock upwards to compress it, a screwdriver under the bottom eyelet held it until I got the bolt back in. It took all of about 10 mins to get both sides done. Now I have to decide on which struts to go with. My choices are Bilstein 5100 or Rancho RS999949. I'm leaning towards the Ranchos because they are a complete strut and fully adjustable without having to remove. Either way, I can ditch the RC spacer and still be leveled...
  20. I'm about to replace mine too. I like the Bilstein 4600's for the rear as they have good feed back for those that tow. But I'm seriously considering the Rancho +2" struts for the front. They come already assembled as opposed to the Bilstein 5100's and I'm not sure I want to deal with getting a shop to do the spring swap. I have seen some good reviews of the Ranchos and they are easily adjustable. I really haven't had any issues with the OEM Ranchos but at 73k miles, I think it's time to replace. And then I can also ditch the Rough Country spacer that I used to do the 2" level.
  21. If you're on Facebook, throw an ad in the marketplace and specify local pickup. That's how I sold my BAK Revolver X2 when I removed it to put on the Century cap. I sold it pretty quick for about 1/2 of new. I got cash in hand, the guy who bought it got a good deal, didn't have to deal with shipping, and it was out of the garage...
  22. Not trying to dissuade you but I thought about doing a locking gas cap as well. But what thieves are doing if they encounter a locking gas cap is just put a hole in the tank and drain what they need that way. (And if they don't take it all, a bunch of gas will now puddle under your truck.) Then you are stuck having to get a new gas tank. It's a lot more expensive then having gas siphoned out of the tank. Kind of the same thing with the service door on my garage. I never lock it. I figure if someone wants to get in there, they will. Usually kicking in a locked service door is the easiest way. They aren't very secure. By leaving it unlocked, at least I suffer the extra headache of having to fix that door while dealing with the stuff that might get stolen. I have insurance to replace the contents...
  23. I had my dealer do it one time when I still had the OEM tires. It was a bit pricy but solved a shake I was having. When it was time to replace the original tires, I bought them from Discount Tire. I just learned recently by accident that they do free lifetime rotations and road force balancing as part of the original purchase. I was actually encouraged by them that when it's time for my next oil change, after its done, come by and get the tires rotated and balanced again. I have had very good experiences with dealing with them in the past and will probably use them for next tire purchase. They have numerous shops nationwide. Might reach out to a local one and see what they would charge to do this for you.
  24. When you had the tires rotated and balanced, did they just do a traditional balance or did they do a road force balance? It does make a big difference.
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