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mikeyk101

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Everything posted by mikeyk101

  1. And it's a possibility mentioned in one of the first few TSB's but take a look at your battery. Many weird electrical issues cane be a result of the battery. Is yours still the original? If so, I would be looking at replacing that before you go further as it will be over 7 years old now. And if you have a more current battery, sometimes just disconnecting the battery for a bit helps reset and resolve strange issues.
  2. Take a look at this page. There are a slough of TSB's related to your issue and maybe one of them will help with the fix https://www.aboutautomobile.com/Technical-Service-Bulletin/2014/GMC/Sierra-1500/Integrated-Trailer-Brake-Control
  3. I haven't seen the original episodes in probably decades and never realized just how bad the acting in the choreographed action scenes were. Lol!
  4. On mine, I use a Garmin RV890 GPS quite frequently especially when I'm pulling my toyhauler and that is already occupying the power port. And my power port only provides power when in ACC or Run. I never switched the fuse to the always hot as I never needed it to be hot all the time.
  5. Ok, here is how I did it on my 2016. I used fuse #31 for power when truck is in ACC or On. I used fuse #36 which was a spare that is hot all the time. I also used a bolt to the left of the fuse panel to get "-" ground. So looking at the wires, the yellow wire is connected to fuse #31 and red constant is connected to the spare fuse #36. Not sure which dash cam you are installing but if you are adding a Rove that can also connect to your phone via wifi to view live camera or the video files, if you are using a VPN on your phone, you will need to turn it off temporarily or your phone won't connect to the camera. This might also be true for other brands as well. I found this out by accident when trying to link up to the dashcam.
  6. I added a Rove dash cam to mine a couple months back. The hardwire kit came with a mini tester to probe the different fuses. Using that and the owners manual detailing fuse panel to the left side of dash, I did exactly what you want. The Rove installation kit is pretty slick as it uses piggyback fuse holders to get the power. The cool thing with the install kit is they give you 8 of those piggyback fuse holders, 2 in each of the various fuse sizes (Maxi, standard, mini and micro) so I still have 6 left over that I could always use for other projects. The power runs up the left pillar and tucked underneath the headliner. Kind of surprised how well the installation went. Give me a little time to get out there and I will let you know which ones I used...
  7. Well they are on. Not the greatest fit but pretty sturdy. They fully cover my little booboo so it is no longer visible. I ended up leaving it alone instead of trying to pop it back out.. I did spray on some Turtle Wax car wax on it though prior to installing the flares. Not sure how much that will protect it but I figured it couldn't hurt. As far as the mud flaps, these retain the factory mudflaps and kind of fit around them. There is a rubber gasket that goes around the entire edge prior to install. It is a bit tedious getting it on and you have to make sure that it fits over the lip the entire way. It is secured by some 3m tape. When fitting the flares on, you have to make sure not to pinch or roll it so that it fits properly. The 2 front flares were very simple. Remove 3 T15 screws, attach 2 brackets with 2 of those T15 screws (I didn't tighten them all the way), secure the flares to the brackets with 2 Phillips head screws, make sure to get flares in final position then tighten down the T15 bracket screws, put the remaining T15 screw back into the factory mudflap and push on a black clip supplied with install kit to front part to secure that. Those went quick. The rears took a little more time. A T15 screw in front mudflap and T15 in rear needs to be removed. No brackets, just gets secured to lip of wheel opening with several clips but it fits partially between the factory mudflap on front of wheel well. Surprisingly this took a bit longer to install and the drivers side was the most difficult for some reason. It was hard to get the clips on and I ended up just getting them started and then just tapped them on fully with a hammer. The rubber gasket around the fuel door cutout kept trying to fold under but I finally got that. Overall not a difficult install. The material matches very closely to the air dam below the front bumper. I think overall it looks OK but we shall see after having them on a bit. They really don't show up well on pictures but are more visible in person...
  8. Although probably not practical in the much colder weather, anything powdercoated is a breeze to clean if you have a clean towel and a can of lemon pledge. That was a big reason on my bike for powdercoating the wheels. The grime is quickly taken off by a blast of the lemon pledge and a wipe down. This made cleaning the wheels a simple quick job. It would probably work well for bumpers, grilles, etc...
  9. JMHO, I would bet that the chances of getting pulled over in the HOV lanes if you at least have a passenger will be slim to none. There is a lot bigger fish to fry and as long as you are not attracting unneeded attention, you should be fine. And with the seatback down, it basically is no longer a seat. Have you or someone else ever tried to actually use it as a seat? If it were me, and the slight possibility that I did get pulled over, I would just play dumb and say it's a console and show the nice officer how it opens up like one. Unless he is familiar with the middle so called seat, it would probably work out to your advantage. Usually Highway Patrol concentrate more on the trucks than passenger vehicles for minor infractions. And since covid, all across the country, enforcement for just about anything just doesn't exist. Back to the trucks, on most multilane highways, trucks are only allowed to travel in the right 2 lanes. The highways often times even have signage stating the same. But I can't even count the number of times I have seen multiple trucks happily motoring along in the 3rd lane and even sometimes in the far left lane. Before covid, this particular infraction was almost never seen and if it was, the driver was almost guaranteed a stop and a careful inspection.
  10. I do have a small bottle of touch up paint that came with the color matched topper that I was going to give a try to covering the bare spots. But of course, I forgot to bring it with, doh! On a positive note, I have now had an opportunity to place the flare kit up against the fender and they are pretty beefy. They easily cover the ding so I may just leave it for now and worry about it at a later date. I will just see how ambitious I feel about it tomorrow. Still not sure how I will feel about having fender flares on my truck but will see them installed tomorrow. Good thing is they are no drill so shoyld be easily reversible if I don't like them...
  11. The flares have been delivered to my other place and I will be headed up there tonight. I will be putting these on tomorrow and will finally know one way or the other if it's going to work. I will post some photos afterwards to show the final result. Meanwhile, when I'm doing this, I think I want to try and remove the inner fender lining and see if I can possibly tap some of the dent out. It will still have the scrapes though as there isn't much I will be able to do about those. I am going to try using the end of a small piece of 2x4 and a hammer and try to tap some of it out. But I haven't looked too far into what it will take to remove the inner fender lining or at least the front part to access the backside if the front of the fender. Any tips or clues on this or can someone give me an idea of how difficult it will be?
  12. Standard disclaimer, I am not a trained mechanic, just a Jack of all trades... Doing a quick search on those codes show that most all point to a short circuit or open circuit. I saw several posts that it could be as small as a nick in a wire that touches a ground and can be a bit tricky to track down. The last one points towards the Chassis Control Module. I came across several sites that talked about water intrusion and that once that happens, the only cure is to replace it. And I also came across this article. I'm taking a WAG that yours is a 14 based on your user name. But take a look at this: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motortrend.com/news/1410-gm-cars-trucks-suvs-recalled-for-chassis-control-module-defect/amp/
  13. Well I decided to go ahead and give these fender flares a chance. Under the specs, they are listed at 6" wide and I think that would work. But when I started to price them, I was a bit surprised. I found a good price on gmpartsgiant.com at $280 but when I went to check out, they wanted $175 just for standard shipping. Then I went to gmpartsdirect.com and they were worse. Fender Flares were at $346 and then they wanted $357 for shipping! WTF! So then I went on ebay and was able to purchase these exact OEM/EGR ones for $398 and free shipping. And would you believe that the seller is gmpartsdirect? Then after doing this, I got the bright idea to give Chevrolet.com a quick check in the accessories section. Had I done that first, I would have saved myself about $60. They had them listed at $399 and there is an available coupon for 20% off. Shipping was going to be through FedEx starting at $260 but there were 2 other options. I could select a local dealer and use the Dealer Installation at $115 or select Pickup at dealer at no additional cost. If I had ordered direct from Chevy, I would have selected the pickup option. I understand that these are bulky items but I am floored by the shipping charges. At least now I know a way to save some money on shipping charges for the future. Once I get them I will try to find time to get them on and update with some photos. Still not sure if I'm going to like the look but I'm committed now...
  14. Unfortunately it will probably be a while before I have any serious highway miles but I have been doing 30-40 miles each way at least once a week. I just did it again today. About 42⁰ outside and the trans temp stayed in the upper 140⁰ to lower 150⁰. I don't think it even got up to 154⁰. This was running 80-85mph pretty much the whole way. It's not completely flat but has very slight up and down sections all along the way. Like @BlaineBug, I honestly never payed much attention to the trans temps prior to this year so I don't have any data from when ambient temps were colder before. I only started to pay attention after I got my new toyhauler and began dragging it around the Midwest starting in the spring. Before pill flip, temps went pretty high as I had posted about before. After pill flip, temps were still a bit high but stayed more reasonable. With the new 154⁰ trans thermostat, although I haven't pulled my toyhauler yet, the temps do seem to stay much lower and I haven't noticed any real ill effects to trans when it's cooler out and it takes a while to begin warming up.
  15. I get that after going through the soft cloth car wash. Instant gratification
  16. I'm not a huge fan of fender flares but recent events got me thinking about them. I have a choice of either around $900 and a visit to the local body shop or pick up a set of the OEM fender flares for just under $300. I know doing it right is the best way but from looking at the advertising photos for the 19303288 fender flares, they look like they would cover what I need. So I am asking if anyone who has added the OEM EGR smooth fender flares could post photos so I can compare how much past the fender they cover. I don't like the ones that have the fake bolts, I would be leaning towards the smooth styled ones. But they both appear to be about the same size so photos of either installed would be greatly appreciated. They appear to be fairly wide which would be good. This is what I am looking at covering and protecting Here is a stock photo that appears to be of the rear but seems fairly wide And here is a view of the set uninstalled.
  17. I am not familiar with those transport trailers. How much would one weigh? And I think it might also depend on the hitch. The heavier the total weight is, it might possibly need a weight distribution hitch. I know my toyhauler weighs empty at about 4500lbs and loaded with my trike and gear, it comes in around 63-6500lbs. My 2016 crew cab with 5.3 3.42 gears and 6 speed trans seems to do just fine pulling that. It initially struggled in some of the hills and mountains down in Tennesee, Kentucky, Arkansas and Missouri until I figured out to just drop a gear manually just before going up the grades. I did one time rent one of the full car trailers from Uhaul to transport a Chrysler minivan from about 30 miles just SE of Valparaiso IN to the Northside of Chicago, just over 90 miles . It was mostly flat and did just fine. I hope that helps.
  18. Pretty sure it's 3 ugga duggas. At least that's how I did my new thermostat and has been just fine...
  19. You haven't provided any details on your truck. There are many different configurations and no one will be able to provide answers without it. What engine do you have, what gearing, etc... Download this pdf file and it should help you with some answers: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/chevrolet/na/us/english/index/vehicles/2018/trucks/silverado-1500/mov/02-pdf/2018-chevrolet-trailering-and-towing-guide.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiqkdHopa30AhXYK80KHSeNDe0QFnoECCkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2dXCQsPpDRaqcO3nSGgARx
  20. I just installed the Phillips LED lights for my reverse that @EpicLTmentioned. Bought them on Amazon and had some rewards from my Chase credit card that brought the price down a bit. I like that they are polarity free. They do seem brighter that the stock incandescent but need to test them at night to see how much brighter they are. Not a big deal at my city place but hopefully will come in handy at my Wisconsin place or when camping...
  21. The full oem air dam is a bit much. I never cared for it but needed it because of the front plate. However, I did learn that it is actually a 2 piece. Quite a while back, I removed the bottom piece and think it looks tremendously better and provides more clearance for the reason you mentioned...
  22. Easiest solution to avoid dealer and have the updated thermostat and not do the pill flip is buy the new thermostat and a new seal online and do it yourself. It can be done in a couple minutes and parts shipped come in under $70. It's a simple procedure and only requires a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket and a pan for underneath to catch the little amount of trans fluid that will drip out. But pay real close attention to the end of the 2 cooling hoses that go into the thermostat. Each has a small o-ring that you must make sure is still there when installing cooling lines into new thermostat. If you fail to do that, you will have a very messy undercarriage...
  23. On mine I have to activate the cargo lights for those reverse mirror lights to come on. I have OEM tow mirrors but they are on a 1500.
  24. Also did you just replace the lights or did you go with an aftermarket assembly?
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