mikeyk101

This topic is coming at the right time. I just had my oil changed at my regular dealership and in their inspection, they said the lower driver's side ball joint is starting to have some play and needs to be changed. I didn't get a quote in writing but was verbally told that it would be around $1200 to do but includes the alignment. Wow! I know it's going to cost me some money but based on what I'm seeing in this thread, that's sounds like way too much. Would you agree? Also would it be cheaper overall to just have a new lower control arm with ball joint already installed be cheaper between the part and labor costs? I had thought about doing the work myself but we still have several inches of snow on the ground with more on the way, arctic cold temperatures, and my garage just has no space to get the truck into it. So I would have to do it in the driveway. I just can't see myself doing it with all that going on.

111⁰ sounds awfully low to me. Are you getting any heat in the cab? How are you checking the temperature? I had the thermostat go bad on my 2016 about 2 years ago. Mine in winter was running in the upper 160⁰ mark to upper 170⁰ mark but would occasionally get to the 180⁰ mark if I jumped on the throttle a bit. I monitored the coolant temps not with the generic dash gauge but with an OBDII reader. The heat in the cab wasn't very good. The stock 207⁰ thermostat was sticking open. I ended up installing a Motorad 194⁰ thermostat. Within a month or so, that began sticking partially closed and I was sometimes getting temps of 225⁰ also during the winter. I changed that out for a GM 194⁰ thermostat I was able to find and everything began working as it should again.

Mine is installed on a 2016 but they have quite a few solutions for a 2014. https://www.camerasource.com/automotive-backup-cameras?make_filter=6008&model_filter=6208&year_filter=6280&product_list_order=price Here is the basic replacement for the 2014-15 https://www.camerasource.com/automotive-backup-cameras/2014-2015-sierra-silverado-hd-replacement-camera-evi?make_filter=6008&model_filter=6208&product_list_order=price&year_filter=6280

I believe you may be talking about this one. This is the one I swapped my OEM out for and it does have a much better picture. Seems like the price may have dropped a bit. https://www.camerasource.com/automotive-backup-cameras/gm-backup-cameras/2016-2018-sierra-silverado-hd-replacement-camera-cs-gmtrmod-16?make_filter=6008&model_filter=6208&year_filter=6282&product_list_order=price Here too https://www.adcmobile.com/product/hd-replacement-camera-for-2016-2018-sierra-silverado/ I seem to remember that Camera Source is the manufacturer but it was also sold at ADC Mobile so the exact same camera.

I will say if you plan on doing any kind of towing, having towing mirrors is a big plus. I switched out mine several years ago because I planned on towing a toy hauler camper and have since picked up a 7x16 covered cargo trailer. Without tow mirrors, I would have struggled quite a bit.

Do you already have the switches installed including the mirror adjust switches on door or the mirror defrost button on the dash? If not, merely replacing the harness will do nothing.

If it is the torque converter, you need to address that, like yesterday. It's a short window from the torque converter going bad (breaking apart) and a new transmission. And I do mean short.

IIRC, there is one by the driver's side dash speaker that is a known problem because of insulation partially covering the stud. There is also supposed to be one by the passenger side dash speaker. These 2 mostly affect 2014 and 15 models. And another culprit is the negative cable that comes off the battery. It will sometimes have a problem internally and not make good contact. Supposedly checking the resistance can show the problem. And you can also try wiggling along the entire cable and that may indicate if it's defective. Just to add, there is one on passenger side frame just behind the front passenger wheel that may need some cleaning of corrosion and removal of undercoating. I also remember a video showing a braided ground strap that runs from the firewall to the engine towards driver's side. This braided ground strap develops a lot of corrosion and can break apart.

Instead of throwing parts at it, have you gone through "ALL" the grounds? There are several that are connected to body as well as the infamous G214 that you can find under the dash speaker on left side of dash. Especially on the 2014-15, it is a known issue and isn't always a clean ground and the insulation may need to be cleared away from the stud. Bad grounds cause all kinds of intermittent problems. Also an old weak battery will also cause problems. Make sure to also check the main negative cable coming off the battery.

I'm in the same boat with my 2016. Mine has almost 117k miles. It still runs great so I plan on keeping it for a long time to come. The prices on the newer trucks are just so high. And way more technology to go wrong. A buddy recently bought a new Colorado. Although not a Silverado, it has similarities. In the past, the manual would usually stay in the glove box. On his, he had no choice as there was a setting for everything and pretty much everything was controlled through the oversized information screen where the radio used to be. Way more than I'm willing to deal with...

I may be interested in this as well and will be watching for replies. I have an OEM rebuilt that was installed by a dealer under the extended warranty Mar of 2024. I had 96,000 miles on it then. They come with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty so I have roughly a year and a half left. So far so good but based on their past, I'm a bit leery of longevity. I figure if I'm still in good shape next year around this time, an aftermarket torque converter is part of the plan. If the trans goes bad before Mar of 2027, I will get a warranty replacement and then have an aftermarket TC done right away.

It probably won't take long if you are seeing warning signs. When mine gave out around 94k miles, I didn't get any warning that there was a problem. One minute I'm driving down a back road in Alabama, next minute, I'm stuck on the side and the truck wouldn't move forward or reverse. I had been trying to accelerate and the rpms suddenly jumped as I began to unfortunately slow down until I came to a stop completely.

And right now there is a coupon available for 20% off. BRAKE20 And if you have it delivered to your local Chevy dealer, there is no shipping cost. I've done this with a few parts in the past and works out well.

I went direct to the Chevrolet website and it shows several choices depending on what level you want. It didn't show any of them as being discontinued as far as I can tell. https://parts.chevrolet.com/categories/brake-system/brake-pads-shoes?year=2017&make=Chevrolet&makeId=47&model=Silverado 1500&modelId=491&body=Extended Cab Pickup&bodyId=18&trim=LT&trimId=430&wheel=Standard Box&wheelId=132&bodyNumDoors=5&bodyNumDoorsId=5

Just curious, how long ago did you get these? It's been a while since I received anything from Chevy. The tape measure I posted above was one of the last things. I did receive a full sized CTL umbrella however I can't remember exactly how long ago but nothing since. They used to also have an online store that sold CTL merchandise but that seems to have disappeared. Chevy Truck Legends seems to have just faded into the background. It was pretty cool while it was still a thing. They do have what seems to be an active FB page, just no free giveaways anymore.

Another thing that may be affecting your gas mileage is regarding the 33" tires. Just curious if you corrected your speedometer? I'm not 100% sure but believe the speedometer is probably linked with the odometer. With larger sized tires, if speedo not corrected, it will show you are going slower than you are. So that would translate into showing you are covering less ground than you are. So if you are covering less ground but still using the same amount of fuel, it will obviously look like you are getting less mpg than you really are.

It's only like a simple 10 minute job. Why not just change it. If you don't like it, you can always go back to it.

Not today but in the last week, I had my 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires replaced. I really liked them but they are now discontinued and replaced with AT4W. But it was going to cost $356 per tire plus install and tax. I just couldn't justify that. Instead I went with Atturo Trail Blade ATS tires which had no negative reviews and also a load range rating of 116T XL over the AT4W of 115T SL. This just seemed to be a better choice since I do occasionally tow a toy hauler camper as well as a 7x16 crargo trailer. And the Atturos are less than half the price. So far they give a nice ride on both city streets and highway driving.

I brought that up because I suffered a no start issue with mine. Dealership decided bad starter and replaced it. It happened again a few months later and accidentally discovered that it was the older Range Disabler after truck started when the disabler was removed. Range swapped it out with updated version and haven't had that problem since. Hopefully you are able to make some progress on your issue.

Are you possibly using an older Range AFM disabler in the OBDII port?

Looks like it is a success. No more clunking. The seat does feel a little different as well as nice and solid now. I wish I had done this sooner.

This by far was one of the easiest mods I've ever done. After 2 weeks of no notification from dealer that the part had arrived, I called up there. Parts guy says the part came in 2 days before and no paperwork. He said it's just been sitting on his counter. He went into the system, found the order, and it had a note that the payment failed! Payment on my end was just going to be $0.44. I told him I would pay it on pickup. When I went to pick it up, he said don't worry about the balance so it basically was free! I had downloaded the service bulletin to find out what needed to be trimmed off and it was pretty straightforward. I used a small hacksaw and about a minute later, I was done. It took all of a couple seconds to pop it into place and then about 10-15 seconds to zip tie it. Stupid simple. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet but hopefully this cures the annoying slight shifting feeling in the seat base on turns.

I hear you on the 6l80 transmissions. I had to have mine replaced on my 2016 about 20k miles ago to and I'm around 114k miles now. The good thing is the trans if replaced with a GM Remanufactured comes with a 3 year 100k mile warranty. I still have about 1-1/2 years to go before that runs out. The general consensus on these is that the GM torque converters are to blame. They end up failing and when they do, the debris goes in to the trans body and you're done. I plan on changing out mine when the end of the warranty draws near. If my trans fails before then, I will get the it replaced under the warranty and replace the torque converter with one of the higher quality aftermarket ones right away... I too plan on keeping this truck for as long as possible. I dread going into a new one. Besides the sticker price, these trucks have been taken over by electronics and EVERYTHING gets controlled by the entertainment center. I like old school knobs and switches. A few conveniences controlled electronically isn't too bad, I just don't want to get into something that you have to keep referring to the owners manual over and over every time I want to change some option.

Not sure if this will help but you can get splitter cables for the OBDII port to allow 2 devices to be connected. I have done this with a Range Disabler and an OBDII reader to monitor various engine functions. It has worked out very well. Not necessarily recommending this one but if you search on Amazon, there are many to choose from. https://a.co/d/aLK2tUV

One thing to keep in mind is that warranty companies will expect you to provide documentation that regular maintenance has been done or they are quick to deny a claim. An example that is big on the list is regular oil changes. Although for many years I would do my own, I now take my Silverado to the dealer to have mine done. It ends up being not much more expensive than doing it myself, there is a record of the service being performed that is even accessible on the Chevrolet owners website, and I don't have to get dirty doing it. They even rotate the tires for me as well as inspect other components. I still do many of the repairs myself but stuff like oil changes, I leave to the dealer.