mikeyk101

I agree. Much better detail. That's the one I bought for mine. And they have a 3 year warranty on them.

Since temps have warmed up a bit from when the problems were happening, it's been working fine ever since. So I have been procrastinating on checking the connector as it's still a bit cold and I don't want to lay down on the cold pavement. I still plan on at least inspecting the connector and have a few other projects I want to do. C'mon Spring!!!

You can also go to Amazon and search corrugated tubing. You will find plenty to choose from. The split tubing is easiest for putting on existing wire looms.

I do remember seeing that on the GM page some time ago but didn't really pay attention and just kind of glossed over the info. I guess I need to pay more attention to details. The good thing is that all 3 levels of parts are backed by GM which is important.

Back in 2023, I installed AC Delco Gold rotors but stupidly chose to install O'Reilly brake pads. First ones were too wide and would bind and drag on rotors. I returned those under warranty and the O'Reilly replacements although a little better still were too wide so would bind and dragged on rotors. I then picked up a set of AC Delco Silver pads and they have worked just fine ever since. And thank you @newdude for that info. I always thought that Gold, Silver, and professional were just an upgrade from the OEM. Now I know.

I think the 100c is a mistake on their part. Everywhere else, the 15-11125 shows it as being a 207⁰/90c thermostat. I think we may need @newdude for official verification. As far as the 15-11125G, I have no idea. It is an unusual part number that I hadn't seen before.

What did you discover when you checked the refrigerant level?

I don't believe there is a separate flasher relay on these. Instead of relay, the most common fix is to add resistors in the rear taillight harness. There are several thread here on what resistors to use and which wires to splice into.

https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/product-category/fullsizetruck/k2/

You are correct and one is GM and one is ACDelco but they are identical. And yes, both are 207⁰ thermostats. I just highly recommend using an OEM over aftermarket after my experience and reading similar experiences of others. As far as the OBDII readers, the one I have been using for a couple years is a BAFX one I bought on Amazon for around $25. It allows me to also scan for most common codes as well as clear them. I am using an app called Torque Pro to monitor the functions. There is a Torque lite too I believe but I paid the fee dollars to get the Pro version. Here is a list of compatible readers for the Torque app. https://wiki.torque-bhp.com/view/Bluetooth_Adapters IMHO, for what I need, I didn't need one that was hundreds of dollars and there are quite a few for less than $50 which would work just fine. In my case, I also use a splitter cable plugged into the OBDII port so I can run the OBDII device along with my Range AFM disabler. Occasionally the OBDII device will fail to link up to my phone and all I have to do is unplug it from the port and plug it back in again, no big deal. This will happen sometimes if I leave it plugged in and don't drive for a couple days.

Just wanted to add, not sure how you are checking on the coolant temperature. I know on my 2016 Silverado, there is a coolant temp gauge that shows 160, several hash marks and then 210. This gauge is not very accurate. when the needle is resting on the 210, the actual coolant temperature will be somewhere between 185 and 220 or so. If it dips slightly down from 210, then it is already below 185. So if you are gauging your 185 temp by using the longer hash mark in between the 210 and 160, I can tell you that it is definitely less than 185. I know this because I also have a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII module and use Torque Pro app on my phone to monitor things like outside temp, intake temp, coolant temp, oil temp, trans temp, voltage, etc. Today, I had to do a 55 mile run one way and outside temps were hovering around 0. it did take a little while for coolant to warm up but stayed right in the 185 range while rolling down the highway and that was perfect to keep the cab temperatures very comfortable. once it was warm enough, I had the dash heat set in the lower 70's and was very comfortable. sometimes while sitting at a red light, it might drop to upper 170 range but would jump right back up to 185 once I began rolling again. So I guess my point is, if you are checking the coolant temp by looking at the dash gauge and determining a 185 temp, it is actually well below 185.

It doesn't run hotter, it actually runs cooler. The 194⁰ thermostat opens earlier than the 207⁰ stock thermostat and gets coolant flowing into the radiator sooner. It's a benefit especially if towing trailers.

I believe the 6.2 uses the same thermostat as the 5.3 motor. The 207⁰ thermostat is the OEM for these. There isn't a 194⁰ optional thermostat listed for Silverado or Sierra. However, saying this, there is a GM 194⁰ thermostat that does work and that's what I did on my 2016 Silverado 5.3. The particular thermostat is listed for the 6.2L motors in several years of Corvettes, Cadillac CTS, and Camaros. The part # is 12674634 but is also listed as 15-11113. It is a direct replacement and the one I am using. I highly recommend making sure it is a genuine OEM. When my OEM thermostat was failing 2 years ago, I originally tried a Motorad 194⁰ thermostat and that failed within a couple months. I changed to the 12674634 and it's been fine ever since.

As far as I was aware, there was only 1 software update to be able to use Android Auto and if that is working, you already have that update. Mine was a late 2015 build so it had the AA capable stereo, it just needed the software. What I might suggest though is to unpair the truck in your phone's Bluetooth settings and then get into the AA settings on your phone and select to forget all cars. On my Samsung Galaxy, it is in the phone settings under connected devices. Then in the truck stereo, delete the Bluetooth pairing. I don't recall if in the truck's AA settings if there is a spot to delete your phone. Once you have everything removed on both your phone and truck stereo, re-pair the phone with the stereo, and then plug in the USB cable to launch AA. See if that makes a difference.

Did you happen to go to the beginning of this thread you just posted in and try some of the troubleshooting information? That's where you should probably start.

Well my happiness was short lived. Today it's 50⁰ out but still getting the blue screen as well as the service rear vision system. I've been a bit busy today but may have some time this evening to try troubleshooting. I'll update if I learn anything new.

This is one of the most common problem grounds discussed here that needs to be cleaned up. A simple search on this forum alone and you will find more than enough information on it.

Hopefully you used OEM thermostat and temp sensor. Certain things on these trucks can use aftermarket replacements but some really need OEM and thermostat is one of them. I replaced my thermostat last year with an aftermarket one (motorad). Worked great for several months but then began acting up and I began having overheating issues. It wasn't fully opening like it should have. I went back and replaced it with a lower temp OEM (194⁰) and no more problems. The first thermostat lasted for 7 years and I expect the OEM replacement will too.

For giggles, I went back out today to check and now the rear view camera is working just fine. It is about 15⁰ warmer today and above freezing. We had a cold snap for several days below freezing and one of the days, and had some snow on the ground. I'm now wondering if while driving, some of the salt melted mist may have made it's way into the connector and froze causing the error. It might be worth popping the rear connector apart and spray some electrical cleaner in there and see if the problem shows up again the next time.

I know this thread is a bit stale but I wanted to know if anyone else who has installed the ADC or Camera Source upgraded camera has had any problems with it. Mine has been great the last 2 years up until today. I keep getting a blue screen and initially the guidance lines will still show up. Then, still a blue screen, but I get a warning message to service the rear camera. This happened Everytime I went into reverse which was about 8-10 times. Then 1 time, the camera did come on but next several times I used reverse, back to blue screen again. I did find my order on the Camera Source website and under product description, it does say that it has a 3 year warranty so I do have a least another year on it. I do still have the OEM camera somewhere in the garage and should probably try swapping them and see if that makes a difference. But it's been way too cold to do much outside. We are supposed to get a brief warmup over next 2 days before the bottom falls out again. Any suggestions on anything else to look at in case I also get the blue screen with the OEM camera?

You may have to start tracing the wiring towards front of truck. It's possible that there may be some insulation worn off wiring along frame rail and shorting the circuit.

Did you replace with OEM or aftermarket sensor and thermostat? I had bad experience several months after replacing my thermostat with aftermarket. A Motorad to be specific. Replaced it again with an OEM but went with a lower temp (194⁰) one and it's been fine every since.

Oooo, good question. I have to admit that I didn't even think about that.

I probably would have done the same thing on the 3rd brake light but the dealer replaced the gasket under warranty several years back. It's been fine ever since.

Hahaha! I was wondering where you guys had disappeared to and was hoping we were finally done with your nonsense posts but here you are...