Jump to content

Spendit

Member
  • Content count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About Spendit

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Location
    Michigan
  • Drives
    2014 Seirra
  1. Went thru the same issues back in the spring - replaced the negative battery cable......bad crimps in many of OEM's installed at factory. Fixed the issue, no problems since
  2. Used the lithium ion schumacher several times now on a couple vehicles including mine (2014 battery vs. neg cable fight).....holds a charge for a long time and fits under the rear seats. under $100 at super store here in Michigan
  3. Try resetting the ECM - disconnect the neg cable for a couple minutes. Might blank out a fault this is prohibiting the start
  4. Similar issue - changed out negative cable (bad OEM crimps)......working fine for a couple of months now. New battery at first did not solve issue. Too, I hear of park/gear selector switch at tranny being an issue as well.
  5. Update - day 10 after replacing negative battery cable and things are still good
  6. Several similar issues posted here - Mine died about 3 weeks ago: new battery did not solve issue, new negative battery cable and things are good 10 days into it. lots of 2014's experiencing this: new cables fixed many a recent one was the park/neutral switch.....keep posting issues and soiutions
  7. You dropped the pan or a heat shield? FYI - my fix so far is a new negative cable (1 week trouble free but I wince every time I turn the key to start position). I can state that P/N: 84319729 is not a direct replacement like GMParts stated. This cable is about 1 foot longer then the original P/N: 23138970 at the engine side.
  8. Anyone have the correct part number for the negative battery cable, as 84319729 sent from GMpartsgiant is not compatible. The engine side terminal is flat/straight on the vehicle and the part sent has a 90° bend. P/N 23138970 that is on vehicle is no longer available, obsolete....maybe they changed the mounting location to accommodate the new P/N - anyone have a manual or experience?
  9. Curious on the solution - new harness required once wires cut - but if not 'rubbed' yet do they have a shield or tie down recommendation, or some type of wrap to protect the harness?
  10. Curious how you got the cable off at the engine??? - as mine is behind the trans stick tube bracket (out of site). As to the 2nd line, mine runs down to the frame right behind the tire, between mud flap and well liner.
  11. Going thru same thing - I have a ground cable on order. Did run a 2nd wire off battery clamp screw to frame ground position as temporary solution, seems to be OK for last 2 days
  12. Thanks - That's a problem cant find a replacement one - lots out there but none that match at posts.....might have to 'fabricate' a temporary parallel lead
  13. Hello - would anyone know or have experience with cranking activation causing DIC to go blank. Recently when trying to start the 5.3L I get a click, sometimes 2 then the DIC blanks out and I have to jump start to get engine to fire. Even after a battery replacement this intermittent issue leaves me stranded - yesterdays attempt to jump lead to truck dying once putting in gear (2 times) - Hoping someone has experienced this very problematic issue, ill build the story below. No issues to date with starting, Ive had the vehicle for 14 months now. A few days back headed to store and everything is dead - no chimes, no lights, nothing. Jump box in place, fire up truck drive to complete errand - volt meter at dash right on 14 volts. Trying to head back home, first try to crank, one click and everything goes dead again. Jump start, normal readings on return trip home - put trickle charger on all night (not much current draw). Fires right up next day off to work. Let sit 10 hours - use DMM and read 12.6V at battery before cranking, starts right up and DMM shows 14.6V with engine running. Let sit some hours and DMM at 12.4V, let charge overnight, fires right up. Let sit at work lot for 9 hours, DMM reading at 12.6V before cranking, try to ignite engine, clicks once but fires up - stop on way home for new battery. All fixed right - NOPE After new battery installed all readings look good. 9 days later first thing in the morning, one click like dead but fires. Set at work lot all day, DMM reading before cranking at 12.5V - try to start nothing - jump start to get to appointment. After 30 minute appointment, no fire DIC dead again at key on - jump start put in reverse engine dies - jump start #2 put in gear engine dies - jump start #3 drive home with jump box attached to battery. Each time engine started I got a DIC message to put drivers window down and back up before I put it in gear - window was down, activating it up makes message go away. No other faults at DIC - no indication of weak battery and all normal until 10 days ago?????? My typical start sequence is: turn key to on position, wait for 5 charms then start engine - zero problems in 14 months until last 2 weeks - dash volt meter has always been hovering around 14volts, so charging system not in question. Seems every time I connect a jump box, charger or remove and re-install cables I can get vehicle running normal - until next start up. I read about bad ground cables - tough to find out there right now Looking for help - ideas - experiences with similar issues - next steps
  14. Yep - dropped one in the front a year ago, still there and I don't hear it rattle ever. All covered up by the stake pocket, now way to snake a magnet around and into the hole
  15. Crap - after one week of zero issues with the new battery installed the truck "clicked" at this mornings start up and faulted the radio out to AM again. Charged fine on ride into work.....guess I'm a candidate for the negative cable replacement next. I'll get more meter readings once the sun comes up here in Michigan and the next couple of days
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.