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Spendit

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About Spendit

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Location
    Michigan
  • Drives
    2014 Seirra
  1. I have read lots of these things failing on this site, here is what I found: Harness needs to be replaced - ordered from rock-auto - anyone else see such corrosion inside 5 years? I could not believe the dirt that is thrown at these bulbs, once I removed tail light assembly. This will become a yearly service - remove, clean and reapply dielectric! 34K Miles - right side blinker indicator "malfunction comes" on - simple, replace bulb (top bulb), lasts a week. Second try, scrub clean with electric cleaner and use good dialectical, install new bulb. Now the lower bulb goes out, same thing - all rusted up, this time cleaning and new bulb do not work. Top and bottom bulbs have rusted the terminals away inside the sockets. Just sharing my findings
  2. 2014 - did the same thing. Put a new negative cable on, no issues for 9 months now. Bad crimps in some harnesses, some battery posts are smaller in diameter, so clamp wont tighten down......give that a try next
  3. Which brakes to buy...

    Drilled and slotted on the bosses Acadia - LOTS more brake noise - I would not put these on my truck. I went with best from Rock Auto, so far great after a year
  4. Went thru the same issues back in the spring - replaced the negative battery cable......bad crimps in many of OEM's installed at factory. Fixed the issue, no problems since
  5. Used the lithium ion schumacher several times now on a couple vehicles including mine (2014 battery vs. neg cable fight).....holds a charge for a long time and fits under the rear seats. under $100 at super store here in Michigan
  6. Try resetting the ECM - disconnect the neg cable for a couple minutes. Might blank out a fault this is prohibiting the start
  7. Similar issue - changed out negative cable (bad OEM crimps)......working fine for a couple of months now. New battery at first did not solve issue. Too, I hear of park/gear selector switch at tranny being an issue as well.
  8. Update - day 10 after replacing negative battery cable and things are still good
  9. Several similar issues posted here - Mine died about 3 weeks ago: new battery did not solve issue, new negative battery cable and things are good 10 days into it. lots of 2014's experiencing this: new cables fixed many a recent one was the park/neutral switch.....keep posting issues and soiutions
  10. You dropped the pan or a heat shield? FYI - my fix so far is a new negative cable (1 week trouble free but I wince every time I turn the key to start position). I can state that P/N: 84319729 is not a direct replacement like GMParts stated. This cable is about 1 foot longer then the original P/N: 23138970 at the engine side.
  11. Anyone have the correct part number for the negative battery cable, as 84319729 sent from GMpartsgiant is not compatible. The engine side terminal is flat/straight on the vehicle and the part sent has a 90° bend. P/N 23138970 that is on vehicle is no longer available, obsolete....maybe they changed the mounting location to accommodate the new P/N - anyone have a manual or experience?
  12. Curious on the solution - new harness required once wires cut - but if not 'rubbed' yet do they have a shield or tie down recommendation, or some type of wrap to protect the harness?
  13. Curious how you got the cable off at the engine??? - as mine is behind the trans stick tube bracket (out of site). As to the 2nd line, mine runs down to the frame right behind the tire, between mud flap and well liner.
  14. Going thru same thing - I have a ground cable on order. Did run a 2nd wire off battery clamp screw to frame ground position as temporary solution, seems to be OK for last 2 days
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