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Everything posted by Spendit

  1. In all my 30+ years of doing shade tree mechanic brake jobs, I have never put the assembly line hold-in-place bolts back on. Rotors on 1st and a move down the line to caliper install required them to keep things in place. If they are a recommended item most repair kits would include them as well.......I say they are not needed
  2. Spurshot - Curious if the pan drop was as bad as some report - wedging up engine, small hands to twist it out between cross member and all the wood chunks and straps to have on hand? I have the 5.3 CC with 100K now
  3. I traced my issue back to bad crimp on the negative battery cable, terminal itself - new from Rockauto fixed it, going on 3 years now
  4. Huge thread with all your answers inside the modification area - do a search for PGAMBOA
  5. I traced my 2014 to a bad crimp on the negative cable itself (battery end). I replaced it with new and all god for over 2 years now.
  6. Following - same spot on my 2014, white in color and spot continues to peel away with time.
  7. AND - how is the ride improvement? I have the same tires and need to replace shocks on my '14
  8. Anyone know if the latch bezel will just pop out from the outside, or a trick to get the tailgate open? Trying to get at the rods to release the latch, tannuae cover is latched down too. Don't want to rip if off and loose the backup camera as well -
  9. Went thru similar in a 2014 Sierra - ended up replacing the actual ground from battery to engine and cab wire. Original crimps on OE cable bad....getting the block connector off was a PITA, only cost some blood
  10. Right side of my 2014 - took a new harness to solve the issue. Lots of debris gets thrown onto the connectors under the light housings.....was ~$60.00 from Rock Auto
  11. Just replaced one on my 2014, someone tagged me at a boat launch......was tough to find OEM and it was $280 from Rockauto
  12. 2014, DC 6'5 bed, 5.3L, 6 speed - at 78K now. Became 2nd owner at 29K, 3 years ago.......runs and drives like a long cab, 4x4 pickup with very little mods from original. No: oil burn, fluid leaks, H2O intrusion, electrical gremlins (blank screen, rear slider blowouts, PS drop out, lamps going dark) or NVH issues beyond whats expected. Only fluid change to date has been oil at 6K since i've owned it and nothing reported by leasing dealer from previous owner or GMC records. New: Battery spring '19, new 20" KO2's 6 months after I bought it (Michigan winters), putting in LED backup lights this weekend (921 Dieselleds), pads changed due to boat hauls (surge brakes), wipers (again winter beats things up around here), headlight bulb, rear taillight harness (right side). Truck sits outside everyday and night, get a quick bath after a few hunts or salt builds up, has been driven fully loaded from South Dakota to Pennsylvania, added full floor mats to sweep out mud and folding soft tannue cover. Hope I get 1/2 the life out of it from the '94 Sierra I gave up with some 300K on it (not waxed one time :))
  13. Just ordered a set today (May 22, 2020) based on everything I have researched - they are currently 1/2 price, YEP $54.99 the "MEM10" code takes off another 10% and it was free shipping if you can wait a week
  14. Mine was the right side, fought with it for a year - bulbs in and out, cleaned all terminals and checked all connections - I replaced that side harness with new and has been fully functional for ~year now. Sierra, 2014, double cab too
  15. My 2014 did the same thing, after putting in a new battery - I tracked it down to the negative cable on battery itself. There is a ton with the same issue - the factory crimps are weak, thus loss of power at times. I ran a complete new cable - no issue inside a year now. Some run a 2nd wire to ground as a fix too.
  16. Run a search on the troubleshooting section here - tons of posts.....various fixes - but electrical shorting is main issue
  17. Got 42K miles on my KO2's, rotate regularly like stated but they are getting louder now. Same 20" tires, in D range keep fronts aired up to 45PSI and rear at 42PSI all year - they are wearing in great here in MI. The stock GY's where junk at 25K
  18. Mine did it once - after several no starts I tracked it down to the "known" negative battery cable crimp (2014 Sierra) - replaced a year ago, no repeats to date.
  19. Received my notice in the mail yesterday - it states "failure to follow recommended oil change intervals could contribute to this condition." I can already hear the excuses for a sub-par part failure being blamed on oil change recommendations between manufacturer (oil) and DIC.......Too - I do not have the DTC set as of yet however, the condition is present. I have some time before this "fix" runs out - so I will let the garage monkeys figure out the technique before I get in line to change out mine
  20. My '14 had bad corrosion in the sockets - $41 @ Rockauto for a new wire harness - problem solved....
  21. I have read lots of these things failing on this site, here is what I found: Harness needs to be replaced - ordered from rock-auto - anyone else see such corrosion inside 5 years? I could not believe the dirt that is thrown at these bulbs, once I removed tail light assembly. This will become a yearly service - remove, clean and reapply dielectric! 34K Miles - right side blinker indicator "malfunction comes" on - simple, replace bulb (top bulb), lasts a week. Second try, scrub clean with electric cleaner and use good dialectical, install new bulb. Now the lower bulb goes out, same thing - all rusted up, this time cleaning and new bulb do not work. Top and bottom bulbs have rusted the terminals away inside the sockets. Just sharing my findings
  22. 2014 - did the same thing. Put a new negative cable on, no issues for 9 months now. Bad crimps in some harnesses, some battery posts are smaller in diameter, so clamp wont tighten down......give that a try next
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