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Drives

  1. Hi Guys, Diablo emailed me this morning to announce that they've got their tuner units ready for the 2014's, here are some of the options it does, I've had a Diablo for my 2010 Denali since I purchased it, but back then there were a lot fewer things supported than they appear to be doing now (primarily purchased it to change the tire sizes and disable the limiter) inTune really improves the 2014 GM Truck; tunes included are 87 octane tune, MPG Booster Tune, and the Diablo tune, which should be used with octane higher than 91. Increases of up to 15 hp and 20 ft lbs of torque can be seen across the entire RPM range with the Diablo Tune. Our tunes are calibrated specifically to improve performance, drivability, and economy and reduce the factory's power-robbing "torque management" to put more power to the ground when you need it. Other options include TCM (Transmission Control Module) control to adjust automatic shift characteristics, DOD (Active Fuel Management) disable, speedometer adjustment for gear and tire changes, and raising speed and rev limiters.
  2. Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
  3. I am about to change the rear differential fluid on my 2016 Silverado. I went to the dealer to get the fluid (75W-85 special new fluid, supposedly "High Efficiency"). The dealer was unable to give me the volume spec for the fluid to fill it back up. I have seen both 2 liters and 2.6 liters required. Seeing as to how the fluid costs $22 a liter from the dealer, I don't want to buy 3 liters if I only need 2. Can anyone help clear this up/set me straight???
  4. It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.
  5. 2014 silverado wt radio and hmi upgraded to i06 This truck never had a back up camera. Upgraded from i04 to i06 via hmi. installed proper back up camera in tailgate, plugged in to RC port. BUT The error from the ecu indicate that the line is open. So, my thought is that the wiring is not there. I was told if the grey and yellow wire are there its there, but even if it is from the back to front, it might not be across the front to the unit. I was temped to use a harness that would plug into that plug and add a simple rca add. So I have a black screen with directional lines that work. Then it goes black and days service required. I took it to the dealer, they want 1200 to do it all. uh, no. I need a simple solution. help guys. please.
  6. Hi I'm new in this group, I hope you guys could help me out. I'm driving a GMC SIERRA 2014 ALL TERRAIN MODEL and I been trying replace my blower motor resistor, but the problem is that... I don't know where is located, according Google, amazon and o'reilly I bought the correct one. Every body is saying that is normally next to the blower in the passenger side, but I couldn't find it. I'm leaving photos to show you guys how it looks right where the blower is.. Thanks
  7. Recently bought a 2014 Silverado LT w/ 5,3L and 6-speed trans(4wd crew). Truck has 110,000 miles on it, but appears to be lightly used and truely all highway miles. I have been driving it for a week now w/ no issues but this morning on the way to work under light driving the truck jerked and the engine light and the traction control light came on. They went off about a mile down the road but truck now seems to shift hard. Is this a sign of transmission problmes? Should the dealer have been able to see this problem by reading recent codes? I was told there were no issues and the truck had just been scanned and had no codes in the record. Any ideas on the problem? Any comments on if i got screwed by the dealer? Are there issues w/ this transmission? What should i be doing to remedy or extend the life of the trans? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks I have a 2007 that has shifted ereatically from day 1 and now has 180,000 miles without a failure, maybe chevys just shift this way?? ughhh.....
  8. I have 2014 Silverado and went to the gas station one morning and out of nowhere started smelling gas inside of the truck. Long story short, went to look underneath truck and had a 3x3 ft size puddle of fuel underneath truck on ground. Looked to see where it was coming from and looks like it’s coming from back side of motor. Can anyone help or recommend any action to take from this?
  9. A few days ago I turned the key to start my 2014 Silverado LTZ 4x4(51,000 miles), when it hit the accessory position my AC delco battery EXPLODED under my hood (spewing acid all over, the whole 9 yards). No, I don't have anything extra hooked to my battery at all. Anyway, this blew one of the main fuses coming directly off the battery in which I had to replace that entire fuse board. Bought a new battery, start the truck, radio screen not on. Found that little yellow blown fuse on the passenger side, fixed that. Now, for the life of me, I can not find the source of my last problem which is my A/C blower motor will not come on at all.All the lights come on the a/c controller by the radio. I figured it would be another fuse but the ones I checked were ok(maybe I'm missing one?). I stabbed a test light in the red wire going to the blower motor and its getting power. It would be hard for me to believe that the blower motor went bad since it was otherwise working fine before this battery failure. What am I missing? Thank you in advance.
  10. I have a 2014 silverado 1500 lt with 4K miles. It's passin me off. Keeps dying after I wm stopped and make a right turn. I have to stop in the middle Of traffic and put it in park and then restart it. Any help? Any way the dealer fixed this for yall? Thanks!
  11. i could use some advice.... I bought a 2014 GMC Sierra crew cab z71 4x4 and my check engine light flashes so i take it to the dealer. Truck has 5k miles on it. Dealer says it is a misfire on cylinder 8. They tell me it had a loose clip on the spark plug. 500 miles later the check engine light flashes again. Go to the dealer again its a misfire on cylinder 8. They replace the plug and the wire. Said it was a bad plug. 500 miles later the light flashes again. I call the dealer and they tell me they will have to teardown the enging to cylinder 8 to see what the problem is. Does this sound right for an engine with less than 7k miles to need a teardown to cylinder 8? What does that all consist of anyways i ask? The serive guy never gave me a straight answer and wouldnt tell me what the compression was on that cylinder. I dont like the sounds of teardown a new engine and asked for that coil pack to be replaced and was told no. Anyways anyone had any problems similar to this and could offer some adive or tell me what a teardown to cylinder 8 consist of? Thanks
  12. So ive been seeing the conversion on 08-13 Sierras , and very popular on Silverados even the 14-16 conversions. On feb 1 some jack ass cut me off and hit my front bumper and fender , lucky for him i was already looking into doing a 2018 denali headlight conversion with the gen5 wiring harness and 2015 HD front bumper with 2500 all terrain grille To keep the theme going. As I researched could not find anything on the 2014-2018 sierras being converted to HD , all the guys i saw on IG with them had shops or buddys do them. Some guys welded either the 1500 or 2500 brackets lower ,enlogated the holes lower, redrilled , some had no gap -some liked oem gap between the grille/fenders. I did find two guys I kept intouch with they were a lot of help. One sent me pictures on how to re-drill the stock bumper brackets lower and cut some parts off it to clear the bumper , the other told me 1/2 above the existing holes . I took it upon myself to source a complete front bumper from ebay with everything $750 with shipping all i have to do is paint it , found a all terrain grille on ebay for $300 , had to buy the 2500 bumper guides and 2500 bumper fillers no luck on hood yet.while the parts arrived i bought the 2018 denali lights from fankie on here and the harness from gen5 easy bolt on by the way. When all the parts arrived i grabbed my grinder and drill . To start i took the 15torque head screws and 7mm from the sides of the wheel wells , took the 12 plastic clips from the upper cover , removed the 4 top 10mm bolts ,pulled off the bumper filler pieces between the grille and bumper , exposing the 10mm 4 bottom grille bolts , then removed the grille. Gaining access to the 4 18mm bolts that hold the bumper on the brackets, i loosened but did not remove till i went under the front bumper and removed the 2 outter 15mm bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper , i loosened the inner 15mm bolts but did not remove , once that was done i removed all 18mm bolts holding the bumper and took it off . Once off the stock 1500 bumper brackets have 3 15mm bolts in a triangle pattern, i removed all 6 and removed the tow hooks , the tow hooks will be eliminated from this . Once i had the brackets off i measured 1/2 inch above each hole . Now this is important if you want oem gap like myself i drilled a hole slightly bigger than the bolt going threw at the center of that 1/2 mark . If you dont want gap id suggest drilling under the 1/2 mark and possibly enlongating that hole down wards for adjustment. By drilling the hole a 1/2 inch higher it drops the bracket to clear the 2500 grille . In addition to redrilling the bracket you have to cut an L shape on top right next to the top bolt that the bracket has , i actually cut the bottom of the bracket and eliminated the bottom slot for the second 18mm hole because i was having issues lining up , ended up not being the problem , i found that out of the 6 15mm bracket bolts you only use 4 the top and inside 15mm the outter 15mm that completes the triangle actually hits the hd front bumper and it sags in the back ,so removing levels the bumper flush , i tried grinding the head down and still no luck removing was the fix. With the bumper off , you want to remove the 1500 bumper guides 3(7mm) bolts rachet wrench works best and socket aswell , install the 2500 bumper guides with same bolts same place these support and clip on to the new 2500 bumper filler pieces under headlights which youll have to buy . They clip and slide right on , the two bottom outter 10mm bolts that held the old grille will hold these in place and the other two 10mm in the middle from the old grille will be eliminated. See pictures.To finish securing the bumper filler and guides you have to screw the 7mm and 15 torque screws by fender trim , you will either have to buy the 2500 or 18 fender trim pieces or just trim yours roughly enough to bolt on the remark to trim perfectly and level like i did cant even tell .So Once the guides and fillers are installed grab the redrilled bumper bracket to your liking in gap, make sure its clearanced with the L shape you can rebolt bolt to frame leaving the outter 15mm off at that point you can lay the new bumper on the brackets rebolt the top 18mm bolts the bottoms wont line up -i eliminated by grinding off ,see pic -you can reconnect the lower 15mm outter brace and tighten , youll find out that it bolts right up and if you drilled at 1/2 center like me you keep that stock oem gap maybe a bit tighter gap actually but it looks good , you can then install the grille by pushing the clips in and only bolting on the the top 4 10mm bolts once done youll find that the gap is nearly perfect if you drilled at center of the 1/2 mark , some drill under the 1/2 mark to get less gap and some enlongate the hole lower towards the original hole to adjust and have no gap , but i see that as rubbing issues with paint. sorry for rambling on on the install , i will try to post all my pictures size will be limited and ill go back to proof read fix anything that i missed. Let me know waht you guys think or if you need help
  13. I recently just added a 6 in lift kit and 35 in tires. I was wondering if the dealer could recalibrate the spedometer so I don't have to use an after market tuner and ruin the warranty I payed extra for on the computers. I know how to calculate what speed i'm going just not how off the odometer is going to be. Those are the two questions I am concerned with and as always all replies are greatly appreciated.
  14. Looking for suggestions on front coilovers for 2014 SIlverado 4x4, I currently have a 3" motofab level kit installed including aftermarket Motofab UCA (Which I am not happy with and will be swapping out) Nevertheless I would like to maintain the 3" lift but go away from the spacer to a coilover kit without breaking the bank. I have been looking at the following and interested in feedback outside of going to a full blown 4" lift which I'm trying to stay away from but not opposed too either. Also to mention this is my daily driver so more on road than off road use. Bilstein 6112- won't get me to 3" only 2.75 at highest setting (maybe) Eibach Pro-truck Coilovers 1.75-4" $850 which I'm leaning towards due to price but not familiar with the coilovers I know Eiback makes a good spring which is used on several other brands including FOX Zone Coilovers 0-3" around $2K to purchase (Ouch) Icon 1-3" Coilovers about $1720 these are just a few I have researched but open to thoughts and suggestions and looking forward to the feedback, I'd like to stay under a thousand if possible.
  15. Looking to get a decent set of chains/other traction device for my Silverado. I have P265/65/R18 size tires and the owners manual says to not use chains with this size tire as there isn't enough clearance and you risk damage to the vehicle. It also says "Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on the vehicle and tire size combination" My question is... has anybody out there found a manufacturer/model of chains where the manufacturer recommends it for this tire size on a 1500?
  16. I jumo started a car with my 2014 GMC Sierra. While jumping it I noticed that I couldnt press the accelerator to give it more juice. I unhooked the cables and realized that the powersteering and the accelerator would not work at all. I turned my truck off and then back on ,but the problems were still there. I now cannot get my truck to even attempt to turn over, but the battery and fuses have been checked and are good. Any ideas on what the problem could be?
  17. So I just got a 2014 Sierra SLT, and I'm wondering, is it compatible with the 2016 Sierra Denali? I have access to one for parts and was hoping if someone could tell me if it's even possible to. Body on the 16 is gone, but the trans and engine and some of the interior is still usable.
  18. All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles. Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping. Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo - SOLD OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $50 obo OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $50 obo
  19. I Purchased my 2015 silverado z71 crew cab a couple months ago, so far i love the truck accept for one issue that shows itself every once in a while. USUALLY while turning and acceleration lightly at the same time ( lugging the motor pretty much) ill get a very noticable shudder right before the truck FINALLY decides to downshift. Has anyone had a similar issue. Im going to drives my buddies sierra tomorrow and see if i get the same shudder. I have 3600 miles on this truck so i dont think its anything to do with the "adaptive" transmission learning cycle. Ive heard a custom tune can resolve issues but i really hate to do that on this new of a truck, nor do i have anywhere within 400 miles to get it done. New to the forum guys, hope to get some responses, this is my first GM product. Switched from a 2008 tundra with 245000 trouble free miles. Hope i dont regret this purchase
  20. Hi all, 1500 high country 20 inch chrome rims peeling around valve stem. 3 out of 4 are doing that. 20,000 kms on truck. GM said they would cover only 2 of them... Saw on forum that a guy w a GMC truck got all 4 replaced... Your thoughts?
  21. My truck has 131K miles on it. After an oil change by the dealership. I started the truck the next day and noticed a very loud squeal from the engine. It goes away after about 20 secs. But if i drive and give it a good acceleration, you hear the squeal around 3500 to 4500 RMP. Movie 3_2.mp4
  22. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  23. Hi I’m new to the forum, so pardon any incorrect etiquette on my end. I have a 2014 Silverado 4x4 with aluminum LCA’s. After doing about a weeks worth of troubleshooting a loud squeak when turning the wheels, I did some investigating and learned that I most likely needed new lower ball joints. I ordered up some MOOG LBJ and some new tie rods as well. After the GRUELING process to get those ball joints out, and replaced, a week later... I HAD THE SQUEAK STILL. I look to the ball joint again, and the grease was spilling out of both of the brand new MOOG lbj boots. Listen... I’m not against saying that I might have been rough and ripped them upon installation... but at this point, I don’t care. So I ordered some brand new Lower Control Arms with LBJ’s in them already. Now finally, my question. Is there a way to install these Lower Control Arms without removing the entire wheel/hub assembly all over again? It looks like there are 6 bolts. I’m going off of memory. I have King OEM shocks that I’ve taken off countless times, so I know those are easy, I’m just looking for a quick way to get the job done. any help, helps! thank you for hearing my terrible story haha
  24. We have a 2014 Chevy Silverado and when our lights automatically come on we have no right rear signal and it’s like the brake light is engaged. Signal works perfectly fine during the day when lights aren’t on. It’s currently in the shop but just called saying they are about 3 hours in and need more time which of course equals more money. Anyone else have this issue!?
  25. Have a 2014 Silverado LTZ double cab with the wood grain. Looking to see if anyone has the synthesis silver trim that would like to trade for the wood grain. Or know where I can buy a set fitting 2014 double cabs. thanks
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