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Found 328 results

  1. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  2. Hi Guys, Diablo emailed me this morning to announce that they've got their tuner units ready for the 2014's, here are some of the options it does, I've had a Diablo for my 2010 Denali since I purchased it, but back then there were a lot fewer things supported than they appear to be doing now (primarily purchased it to change the tire sizes and disable the limiter) inTune really improves the 2014 GM Truck; tunes included are 87 octane tune, MPG Booster Tune, and the Diablo tune, which should be used with octane higher than 91. Increases of up to 15 hp and 20 ft lbs of torque can be seen across the entire RPM range with the Diablo Tune. Our tunes are calibrated specifically to improve performance, drivability, and economy and reduce the factory's power-robbing "torque management" to put more power to the ground when you need it. Other options include TCM (Transmission Control Module) control to adjust automatic shift characteristics, DOD (Active Fuel Management) disable, speedometer adjustment for gear and tire changes, and raising speed and rev limiters.
  3. This weekend someone slammed my passenger door probably to hard in my opinion. Not sure if this is the cause of the problem but the issue did start soon after. The Window and mirror lost power first intermittently, now completely. I checked the fuse and also didn’t see anything obvious as far as wires being loose or broken from the harness. Any suggestions or recommendations for a fix would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I am in process of blacking out my 2014 Sierra Crew Cab. I have the chrome window trim at the moment. I see GM sells the Chrome for $450 and the Black plastic for $185. I am hoping I can find someone that wants to make a trade plus some cash. Or... you have black takes offs and already have chrome installed I'll but them direct and sell my chrome take offs separately.
  5. It’s odd that one day my A/C works fine and the other it blows hot to the max air out of the passenger side and cold to the max on the driver side. Defroster isn’t working properly either because when I have it on it just blows air out of the regular vents. Took it to the dealer and they say it could be running out of free-on but that wouldn’t cause it to blow hot as hell air out of one side and cold as hell air on the other no matter what temp setting you have it set. It’s a ‘14 I don’t think it should be having these issues plus we ride with Windows down most of the time.
  6. Hey, I'm new to this site. Just put a 2.5inch RC leveling kit in my 2014 silverado 4x4. I really want to get 305/55r20 Nitro trail grapplers on some 20x9 rims +18 offset. I'm wondering if anyone has this setup and what kind of rubbing issues you have if any. I'd love to see some pics or even suggestions on the next tire size down that would fit if the 305s don't. Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks guys
  7. Looking to purchase a center console. Needs to fit 2014 Silverado. It Doesn’t have to be in perfect condition. But not in pieces either. Shoot me a PM or email if you need to contact. Email: [email protected] Thanks
  8. My 2014 Silverado has developed an unbelievable rattle in the cab. I would swear up and down it is in the center of pillar A on the passenger side. Has anyone else had this problem? I have it took apart right now, and I cannot find where it is coming from. Its going to drive me crazy. Any help would be very appreciated.
  9. I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y
  10. I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ that's had various recalls, now it will unlock while driving down the highway, even if childlock is on and kids in the back. In addition, I can lock it and go inside a store and it will automatically unlock itself while I'm inside. It seems to cycly through unlocking approximately every 5 minutes. Sometimes the mirrors will even autofold closed. This is very dangerous on many levels. Anyone else?
  11. Hey Forum, I have been looking online at the different exhaust systems out there available for the 2014 5.3L, and they are more expensive than I though. For example, Flowmaster's Outlaw system is $850 just for the parts. So, I called a custom truck shop near town and they stated they would be able to cut off the muffler and take out the remaining pipe after the muffler. After the third cat, they would install a Y-pipe and run the exhaust out of the rear corners with 4" tips for $325 installed. I looked up several videos on YouTube where others have done this and the setup sounds good to me. My concern is, after removing all the restrictions after the third cat, will there be a decrease in MPG or HP due to the lack of back-pressure? Or, an increase? I do not understand the back-pressure concept so I am out of my league when it comes to exhaust knowledge.
  12. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 Crew Cab with the standard bed. I have the Rancho Quick-Lift front struts for the front that level the front about 2-1/4". I am looking at adding an additional 1" of lift front and rear. The rear will be either blocks or an add-a-leaf kit. The front will be done with strut spacers while also adding Upper Control Arms and a 3/4" differential drop kit to keep the upper ball joints and CV joints within factory specs. I am looking for something to help with the lower control arms, steering links, and sway bar end links or drop brackets to keep the rest of the suspension geometry in alignment. Does anyone have any sources for any of these components besides fabricating them?
  13. I am having problems with my air conditioning again. My A/C is blowing warm air and this is the second time I have had this problem since buying my 2015 Sierra less than 6 months ago. A few months ago I had the exact same problem and my dealership diagnosed it as a leaking hose and all of the freon was gone. They had to order a new hose and it took a week for it to come in. They installed the new hose and added more freon and it has been fine for the past 3 months until today. This morning I noticed that the air coming out was warmer than normal even though I have the A/C set at 65 degrees. It was fine yesterday. I am going to monitor it and see if it gets worse and if so make an appointment to take it to the dealer again. Just wondering if anyone else has had to replace the hose or had a freon issue with their 2014 or 2015 Sierra / Silverado?
  14. Anyone know what this noise is? It's very intermittent. Seems to do it most often between 40 and 50 MPH cruising with maybe a slight up hill. Never does it on coast or heavy acceleration. Very hard to tell where it's coming from. 20190521_191545_001.mp4 2014 Sierra Denali 1500 Crewcab, 5'8" bed 6.2 Litter 3.42 axle ratio about 118,000 miles
  15. Hi all, 1500 high country 20 inch chrome rims peeling around valve stem. 3 out of 4 are doing that. 20,000 kms on truck. GM said they would cover only 2 of them... Saw on forum that a guy w a GMC truck got all 4 replaced... Your thoughts?
  16. Have scoured across the interwebs for a video showing a similar sound that i'm experiencing. I installed a 2.5" Level Kit and don't remember if the sound was present upon install or after a couple thousand miles. Total miles are at about 4000 with the kit. It rides fine, just went to SC and back from FL. It's still a dream, just a funky noise when turning the steering wheel to the right. When turning to the left, it's not bad at all. I don't even think it has a sound. Please view the video link below and let me know if you have any questions or if you can diagnose it. I understand a mechanic may need to get involved, but before so, I'd like to try to fix it myself. I just re tightened everything just in case.
  17. Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
  18. I have some items/ parts I no longer require or desire. Would love to get them out of my garage. Everything is off a 2016 Silverado 1500 Z71 LT Crew Cab Short Bed. - Bed caps - Headlights (no harness) Continued:
  19. All - I have for sale the Borla Cat Back Exhaust in Touring Edition: PN 140535 on the Borla website. I had this installed new from the factory, the Touring is a fantastic, rumble... I would call it just the right amount of deep sound. You won't believe how nice it sounds over factory exhaust until you try it. It is in great shape (almost like new) as you can see from the Pics, I polished the tips and the muffler to show you just how clean it really is. The rest of the tubes were left as is, since you will be installing it and getting it dirty anyway. I live in South GA for Pickup, 30 min north of Tallahassee. Price is $800 if I ship it, or $700 local pickup. Let me know if you have any questions ! Link to Hear the sound: https://www.borla.com/products/silverado_sierra_1500_catback_exhaust_touring_part__140535.html
  20. I recently just added a 6 in lift kit and 35 in tires. I was wondering if the dealer could recalibrate the spedometer so I don't have to use an after market tuner and ruin the warranty I payed extra for on the computers. I know how to calculate what speed i'm going just not how off the odometer is going to be. Those are the two questions I am concerned with and as always all replies are greatly appreciated.
  21. If you look at my post history you'll see why I had to change out these injectors so I'll spare that story. Since I never found a guide on this I hope this helps someone else who needs it. I by no means am a proper mechanic but I have done something's in the past it was moderate in challenge. So right to it. Tools needed 10mm deep socket,13mm deep socket 17mm open ended wrench, fuel line removal tool, different size extensions, a palm grip socket tool, pry bar or clip removal tool, flat head screwdriver. Remove the plastic shrouds from the sides of the engine. Remove the oil cap and the hose from the air box on the driver's side. Passenger side just remove the hose from the air box. Now that that's done, remove the fuel pump fuse and start your truck until it runs out of gas congratulations you've depressurized the gas lines. Unhook the battery. Remove the air box in front by in screwing the hose clamps and remove the 2 hoses. Starting with the hose on the passenger side then remove the middle. Remove all the connectors Attached and the grommets holding them to the shroud. Then unscrew the four screws on the plastic shroud don't bother trying to take the plastic shroud off the engine just yet. Remove the 10 screws 10mm off the sides. Warning there is a tricky one in the back of the passenger side way back I had to use a palm wrench to remove it. They are not on tight so it's not a leverage issue it's getting your hand on them to turn. Once you have them loose (they do not come out the just get really loose) tilt the screw towards the outside of the truck and pull out. Start with the ones up front so you can see/feel how it's done so when you have to do it blind you will know. There is a harness connected on the back I took a pry bar and popped them out you can feel back there with your hands there are 3. Now slide the whole top right off lifting the front and picking up the back slightly to pull towards the front of the truck. Remove the foam shielding underneath and now you can see the fuel rails. From this point it's straight forward. Remove the line with a 17mm wrench. I took these all off to separate the rails and replaced them. Now you need to remove the clips from the fuel line the remove the fuel line on the driver side with a fuel line tool I did mine above the bracket and removed the bracket for space. Now unhook the two quick connect electric plugs from the back of the fuel rails. It's tough but you can just barely fit your hand back there. With a 13mm socket remove the bolts holding down the rails. I removed the rails separately. You can just pull them out it's a bit snug but you don't need to hulk them out they just kind of pop out. Once out remove the connectors pop the clips out and pull the injectors straight out of the rail. Mine came out without any issues. Replace same way they came out pop them in to the rail then clip back on making sure the two nipples are in the square hole on the clip you'll see it when you try to get them on. Place the rail back into the holes and if it's in right without the bolts it's won't just pop out it will have slight resistance and snug. Do this for both sides put the two connectors at the back back in. Reconnect the fuel lines from the middle working your way to the final snap in line. Place the foam cover on top and reassemble your top. Remember to double check the connectors. Do not over tighten, everything was hand tight removing and should be going back in. Once all reassembled put your fuse back in for your fuel pump reconnect the battery and turn your car to power it but not turn over let the fuel lines re-pressure. I did it three times then turned it over, started up drove it 20miles shut it off and turned it back on no check engine light and ran wonderful. Saved 2k it took me 3hours start to finish but I did this with no guide and no assistance if you can have a second pair of hands it's helpful but not necessary. If I had to do this again probably would estimate it taking 1.5hrs knowing you cannot remove the plastic shroud on the engine is pretty silly but it was the single most frustrating part of the whole ordeal. I'm exhausted but I wanted to post this now so I didn't forget the steps I will re-read this tomorrow morning and edit or add things I missed. I will try and add pictures to this post. I did not take any during because you know you don't think of these things during but I hope this helps.
  22. Folks, In my 2014 GMC Sierra AllTerrain model the compass display in the DIC, which displays just to the left of the cruise control indicator, no longer shows up. It just went away, I’m not sure exactly when, but, sometime in the last 8 months or so. I recall that over the last several months it seemed that the compass would sometimes be there, sometimes not. Now it is not there at all. That little digital compass can be handy in some places! I spent 2.5 hours at the GMC dealer and one of their best techs looking over everything in this truck. There are no codes indicating a failure in any components in the truck. He updated all of the software modules, which had some updates/patches due, checked that the truck was receiving GPS signal (it is...), checked all of the functions of the DIC and infotainment center and found nothing wrong or anything to correct this. He finally took an educated guess that maybe because my OnStar had expired (I let it lapse, didn’t want to pay for it...) maybe that was affecting the DIC compass display. Then I went through the interactions to reactivate my OnStar account to see if that would have any effect, no effect, the DIC compass still does not work. At some point in my calls I ended up speaking to the the GM Infotainment Level 1 tech support about this issue and, while they tried to be helpful, what they could add was that from what they know of the DIC compass it has nothing to do with OnStar and should not be affected by OnStar being active or not, nor does the DIC compass get updated by GPS. But, they were not really clear on how that compass works. Anyone have any ideas?
  23. Ok so long story short I found a big oil puddle in my driveway after parking my 14 Sierra with the 5.3. The dealer I took it to said the rear main seal blew and the cause was the combination of cold temperatures and the oil catch can that I put on the vehicle. I installed the elite engineering e2 can with one way check valve. Has anyone else had this issue? They're telling me since I put that system on it voids the warranty and I have to pay for the rear main needless to say I'm pretty pissed
  24. My passenger side window on my 2014 GMC Sierra get stuck on I try to put it up. It goes up a little bit and then stops and gets stuck and then goes up a bit more and stops. I took the door apart and I can't see where the problem is. It moves so I don't think its the motor or regulator but I'm not sure. Anyone got any ideas?
  25. So finally have everything off of my truck and pics of everything. Prices are obo plus shipping. If post not allowed please let me know and I will delete. Thanks. - RX Speedworks catch can with check valve and clean side separator. Has the OEM connectors for the PCV connections - SOLD - UPR Catch Can with check valve and OEM connections. Only had for about three weeks. - SOLD - Superchips F5 GM Flashpaq handheld tuner. Primarily used to turn off AFM and adjust for tire size. Has pre-loaded tunes and able to change parameters such as gear, AFM, speed limiter, etc. Comes with original box and manual - SOLD - 2014 and up OEM crew cab undersea storage. Prefer not to ship this item but will at buyers expense. But will meet if you are near Augusta, GA-Atlanta, GA-Columbia, SC - SOLD - Volant CAI intake 5.3L. I removed the filter it came with and upgraded to a RotoFab dry filter. Comes complete with everything you see and OEM connectors. Would make deal with someone if they wanted this and the RX Speedworks catch can as the clean side separator would work with it. - SOLD - Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers. Will work with 5.3L and the 6.2L ecotec3 engine. However if you have the 6.2L the connection at the fatback needs to be modified. $600.00 - GM OEM Rosen DVD Headrest AV-7950H 8K-GMCHEV-B38-S1. The primary headrest is the DVD unit while the secondary headunit has the USB input and iPOD docking station. Has built in video games and will come with four headphones(two brand new never used), two video game controllers (new just tested), the accessory wires if you wanted to add a video game system or something along those lines. Im at - SOLD on these will not separate. Selling the whole kit. Thank you for your interest.
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