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Showing results for tags 'ball joints'.
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Hi I’m new to the forum, so pardon any incorrect etiquette on my end. I have a 2014 Silverado 4x4 with aluminum LCA’s. After doing about a weeks worth of troubleshooting a loud squeak when turning the wheels, I did some investigating and learned that I most likely needed new lower ball joints. I ordered up some MOOG LBJ and some new tie rods as well. After the GRUELING process to get those ball joints out, and replaced, a week later... I HAD THE SQUEAK STILL. I look to the ball joint again, and the grease was spilling out of both of the brand new MOOG lbj boots. Listen... I’m not against saying that I might have been rough and ripped them upon installation... but at this point, I don’t care. So I ordered some brand new Lower Control Arms with LBJ’s in them already. Now finally, my question. Is there a way to install these Lower Control Arms without removing the entire wheel/hub assembly all over again? It looks like there are 6 bolts. I’m going off of memory. I have King OEM shocks that I’ve taken off countless times, so I know those are easy, I’m just looking for a quick way to get the job done. any help, helps! thank you for hearing my terrible story haha -
I replaced all ball joints on my 1999 GMC Sierra Z71 days ago. I ensured they were greased, and they all went in fairly easy. However, I have noticed the steering is noticeably tighter going down the road after this was done to the truck. I would describe the steering as stiff and much less responsive due to this tight feel, and because it is so tight it will not naturally rotate back to center after a turn. It tries to but the steering is just too tight. I figured I probably tightened the upper control arm before I tightened the lower but I went back and reassessed that. It did help a bit but it still about the same. If my memory serves me right, I can remember before I assembled everything back before I tightened the upper control arm and the tie rod, it moved freely and easily with just the bottom ball joint tightened down but when everything else was on it, it was near impossible to make the wheels turn in and out by hand, even with the wheel unlocked and on jack stands. I been continuously researching about this, and I've seen it to be a common issue but I can't figure out exactly why without everyone contradicting one another on other various forums. I did get both the bottom and upper control arms really tight with a wrench. that might be where I messed up because I know a castle nut isn't exactly meant to be extremely tight but then again, I don't know if that would have any effect on this issue. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the sequence or how I put the upper control arm back down in. Anyone experience this? -
I have researched the 3 different types of control arms for the 14-18 trucks. I know the stamped steel Upper Control Arms do NOT have any support/retention for the upper ball joints should (when) they fail. But, do the stamped steel lower control arms also not have any retention/support for the ball joints to hold them in when they fail?
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In regards to leveling these new GMCs (mine: 2018) is there a definitive answer on what the issues are? And specifically how to avoid the issue? I have fine tooth combed every forum possible and it’s like throwing darts drunk. I've heard it'll blow out the ball joints, the electronic steering gear, tie rod ends, etc. I've heard don't go over 1.75", don't go over 2.5", and even 2.25" is the limit before you'll have issues. I've heard it's from installation errors... Like no support under control arm when you knock the knuckle to separate the ball joint and the sudden drop/slack causes damage. I've heard if you don't disconnect the electronic power steering harnesses or battery the shock from separating the ball joint can cause a spark that damages the EPS. I've talked to multiple 4x4 shops that install these and most say they've done hundreds/thousands with no issues, which of course I doubt. It's just too widespread of an issue. So does anyone know the secret recipe to a level kit that won't screw up the front end on these new GMCs? Is there anyone out there that's put a substantial amount of miles (25k or more) with their level kit with out the clicking, popping, etc? Sorry to beat a dead horse.
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I'm a high school student and own a 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500. About 3 weeks ago I noticed my front suspension felt off, when I'd turn it just felt loose. I knew I'd probably need new ball joints but I'm no mechanic so I took it to a dealership. My back tire was low so I had them patch it and asked them to take a look at the front so I could know for sure what was going on. They said that I needed new ball joints and tie rods and priced me at $780. I knew the price they gave me was way overpriced and decided to do the work myself. My truck is already at around 170,000 miles and I plan on selling it before I graduate (about a year) so It's not like I'm gonna keep it for another 100,000 miles so I don't need anything super expensive. There is a local O'Reilly's in my town and there is also a AutoZone about 20 miles away. I've yet to talk to them. I've done some looking around online and have had hell of a time finding the right stuff for a price to my fitting. The only questions I had were: I need upper and lower ball joints, my control arms are okay according to the dealership but if I can find a package that includes them I'd look into it. Does anyone know any good upper&lower ball joints and tie rods that they could lead me to? Thank you.
