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HI, I have purchased 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 in September of last year, everything seem to be fine until yesterday. while standing at the light with the break pressed, the rear camera picture appeared on the display. it does not have the the guide lines, just the picture, every time I press the break the camera comes on. When i come to the stop and take my time to put in reverse, the picture stays without the guidelines even though it is in reverse. If i Put in reverse quickly, the camera comes on as it should with the guide lines. I have switched bulbs to LED bulbs with resistors for breaks and reverse no resistors as they do not blink, but it was back in September without any issues so far until now. not sure if that can cause the malfunction or not, but i would think that LEDs have nothing to do with the camera. I'm assuming that water got somewhere and its shorting out/powering up camera. its cold here so I did not get the chance to look at it yet. if anyone can point me to where the camera gets the signal from i can probably figure it out before i go back to the dealer to get that fixed. Notice below what gear the truck is in including "R" no guide lines.. thanks a lot..

Does anyone have experience with belltech lift kits? I've seen plenty of positive reviews from their lowering kits. They've been in the suspension industry for a while, just not so much the trail or lift side. Long travel is the end goal, but a $700 coilover kit with a 5 yr warranty vs an extended strut sounds more functional. I'm considering the adjustable 3-4" lift coilovers, part #15203. -Helper spring -60mm damper body -35mm independent valves -20mm piston rod I've got a 2020 z71 with the 3.0 Duramax for those needing an image to work with. Still exploring UCA options. 35*12.5r17 will be the tire size. Probably going to order them next month.

So after some digging I found the build thread section. What we have here is my 2014 Crew Cab Z71 4WD short bed queen. Bought a few years back as my daily work truck to put my weekend warrior back in the garage. When I first snagged her she was lifted on 34s and by the first drive home I knew the tranny was blown. Worked out a deal with the dealer I bought it from and had a 100k warranty remain installed where they paid for half of T&M. Factory crap struts with spacers front to rear came on her for a "lift". Within a few months I installed ICON Stage 1 kit to give her that quality ride effect. Love me some ICON, ride was supple on and off the road with this kit. When I decided to let go of the weekend warrior to fund the wife's new ride and changed industry's I got the itch to go back to my roots and slam her. I know I wanted to follow the same concept I did with my last mini must haves. Suspension must haves: Adjustable Coil Overs up front Adjustable emulsions in the rear (I went back and forth for months if this was needed on a full-size before realizing it was a MUST HAVE) Control arms up front due to 4wd and limited spindle offerings Flip in the rear 22x10 that sat flush if not almost flush and this go around the wheel set had to be SQUARE After quite a bit of research I came up with the following mods, mind you not all at once Mod weekend 1: IHC 4/6 drop kit Front and Rear, dialed (according to my comparison from ground-to-fender measure on a 19' Z71) she sits right at 4/6 and within spec on alignment. IHC 4" drop arms (Front) Belltech 2-Way Adjustable Coilovers (Front) IHC Axle Flip kit (Rear) IHC 1" lowering shackle (Rear) IHC drop shocks (Rear) Wheels and Tires 22x10 square ET +0 Cosmis racing XT-206R (finish chips easily but they also clean up easily) Lionhart 285/40/22 (Surprisingly nice ply and quieter than anticipated) After the initial mod weekend truck sat with a Carolina Squat , the rear shocks had no ass in them and my measured adjustment on the coil overs were perfect however I did install per IHC instructions with the 1/2" spacers raising the front 1". Trucks rear was as soft as a yellow belly teenager, I would bottom out axle to frame and pumpkin to bed every where I went. This was not my experience on my first go around on a full-size (96' extended cab bow-tie w/ 2/4). I was able to load that rear end up with dirt bikes and motors all day long without issue, guess there was a leaf design change over a span of 18 years . After a week of banging down the freeway I pulled the trigger on IHC helper bag kit and QA-1 shocks within spec of the drop shocks from IHC (eye-to-eye extended and fully compressed). I made the mistake of purchasing Belltech adjustable drop shocks, these only work for 4" rear drops to my dismay . I also noticed that the drop shackle in the OEM hanger configuration was rubbing at ride height, so purchased the shackle flip kit from IHC as well. Mod weekend 2: IHC Shackle Flip Kit (allows for cleaner travel of suspension, simply shoving lowering shackle onto system was rubbing frame) IHC 1" drop shackles IHC Firestone helper bag kit (Rear) QA1 2-way adjustable emulsion shocks (Rear) Designed and Machined custom bushings to accept the OEM bolts (Inventor and Xometry FTW) Once I installed QA1's, shackle flip, helper bags, and removed and readjusted coil overs I got her squatted on all 4 corners EQUALLY. I rub in front occasionally on full lock to drivers only and over excessive dips in road mostly in front. I have bumped coil over adjustment up 2 clicks from factory on drivers and 1 on passenger. I have compression up 2 clicks from middle and run helper bags with 8-10lbs in them when bed is not loaded up. Rarely do I ever bottom out these days, usually if I have the truck loaded up with people to hit work lunch. Sound System: I upgraded the sound system at some point in time between ICON's and slamming. This has been an ongoing mod debacle on my end. Started by building a steel rack behind passenger seat to mount three Memphis amps. I was using 3 Memphis amps I had from my old truck build, however the front amp decided to start sending unwarranted signals to the speakers and the rear amp after about 3 years of sitting and 6 months of using decided to finally die after an overall 10 year party in 3 different rides. None the less the two AB amps were replaced with new Memphis hardware while the class D (knock on wood) keeps trucking along. Doors received focal 3-Ways up front and 2-ways in the rear. Class D memphis runs a sundown 10 under the passenger ina semi-custom box, added some height to the magnet area to accept the depth of the sundown 10 that runs on 1ohm. Memphis feeds it something like 800 watts rms @ 1ohm. Oldy but faithful Pioneer double din is running the show after trying 2 other setups to use the stock head unit. I initially tried pioneers CAN module but making fine tune adjustments or simply turning off the sub for when the kiddo is in the truck was a painful operation. Switched to an AXXES CAN setup, access to this was great, all the adjustments were perfectly accessible, however my trucks CAN did not like this system, I was getting all sorts of weird can signals and issues throughout the truck that I finally ripped that out and sent it back after trying two different AXXES units. Exterior: 2nd year into ownership finally replaced the factory grill with the OEM paint matched honeycomb and updated the fogs and headlights with RIGIDs and paint matched 14-15 style headlights. Also threw in TRLS HID bulbs while I was at it and TRLS rear assembly's as well. I am an avid mountain biker so finding an easier way to load up the bikes was a must, when the pand hit I pulled the trigger on the RIDE88 truck bed system as they were doing a 25% off on preorders. Best investment for a biker ever, so easy to load and lock the bikes up, only painful when I have to fully utilize the bed. Performance: Stock 5.3, that is mostly clapped out, so I have not gone ham under the hood. Initial purchase was an air raid intake using the stock box as most factory units pull outside air vs "cold air" tech. So installed the AirRaid intake tube that ditches the sound deadening box and did a drop in oil filter. After much debate, about a years worth, I pulled the trigger on the MBRP side exit exhaust. I knew from the day I started the truck with it on that I absolutely HATED it but for some silly reason I left it on. Now I am in search of an OEM exhaust so I can throw this junk away and do an electric dump out later on down the road. Eventually I will be swapping the 5.3 out for a LS1 or LS3 depending on what comes available next fall (waiting for prices to drop) and I will replace or rebuild the trans and will 100% replace the transfercase (culprit to my Chevy shakes when auto mode engaged) but first I need to finish my latest weekend warrior so I have a new daily while this ol'gurl is down. More to come

I test drove a 2016 Silverado with the new Off Road Sport Package today, and I really like it. I asked at the dealership if there's a bed cover that is compatible with the sport bar, bu nobody had an answer - anyone know any different? It will help me decide whether or not to get the dealer-installed sport bar or not, since the bed cover is more important for me than the sport bar and associated lights. Thanks.

Hi I’m new to the forum, so pardon any incorrect etiquette on my end. I have a 2014 Silverado 4x4 with aluminum LCA’s. After doing about a weeks worth of troubleshooting a loud squeak when turning the wheels, I did some investigating and learned that I most likely needed new lower ball joints. I ordered up some MOOG LBJ and some new tie rods as well. After the GRUELING process to get those ball joints out, and replaced, a week later... I HAD THE SQUEAK STILL. I look to the ball joint again, and the grease was spilling out of both of the brand new MOOG lbj boots. Listen... I’m not against saying that I might have been rough and ripped them upon installation... but at this point, I don’t care. So I ordered some brand new Lower Control Arms with LBJ’s in them already. Now finally, my question. Is there a way to install these Lower Control Arms without removing the entire wheel/hub assembly all over again? It looks like there are 6 bolts. I’m going off of memory. I have King OEM shocks that I’ve taken off countless times, so I know those are easy, I’m just looking for a quick way to get the job done. any help, helps! thank you for hearing my terrible story haha

Looking at buying a Silverado next week. Went to the dealership and test drive a Z71 crew cab. Compared to my current vehicle, it drove very smooth. Do the rancho shocks make much of a difference in ride quality? Thanks!

I haven't seen anyone with official numbers. displaying the height of our trucks so I decided to pull it in the garage and measure up a couple of points. Keep in mind, this is a 2019 Trail Boss Custom, Z71, Crew Cab, Standard Bed, with ~3000miles. Everything is completely stock and the tank was 95% full. I measured the following heights; - all 4 corners(at the fender) measured at the center of the wheel - front diff (lowest point) - rear diff (lowest point) - front shroud/bumper (lowest point) I've taken the measurements twice, once SETTLED and once UNSETTLED. To better define the terms, the settled measurements were taken by simply driving the truck in the garage, and measuring. I weigh around 200lbs ( seems to matter as there was a little lean tot he driver side). The unsettled measurements were taken by, lifting the vehicle, front and back, just to the point where the tires were off, then slowly letting the jack down and removing it. SETTLED Measurements; DS front - 39 1/4" DS rear - 41 3/8" PS front - 39 1/2" PS rear - 41 3/8" front diff - 13" rear diff - 9" bumper - 13 5/16" UNSETTLED Measurements; DS front - 39 7/8" DS rear - 41 1/2" PS front - 40 1/8" PS rear - 41 3/8" front diff - 13 3/8" rear diff - 9" bumper - 14" I've added all the pictures to this gallery ----> I've attached a couple of critical photos I think everyone should be aware of.

2017 GMC Sierra I want to fit 35s on my stock wheels and have the smallest lift i can do. I don’t want to do a whole lot of cutting maybe no cutting at all. What size lift or level can I do

To all my haters, continue to hate just want to preface that . Anyway I am looking to get some leveling blocks as my truck is still nosediving. I love the way the 3” blocks look but I have also read that the upper control arms tend to pop out with any blocks bigger than 2”. Does anyone have experience with that happening? Also thinking about just taking out the rear blocks. Or both. Any experience appreciated. Also does anyone know what this does about warranty?

Can somebody with a loaded 2022 (or 2021) 2500HD 6.6 Gas LT/LTZ (or similar with the options below) post their payload and GVWR? My wife and I are looking at ordering a loaded 2022 gas 2500HD LT with the Z71 sport package, convenience and safety packages, 5th wheel package, leather bucket seats, sunroof, extra altnernator/battery, etc (pretty much every box checked). The GVWR will be 10,6500#'s, and I'm guessing with it fully loaded it will probably have a payload around 3,100? But I'm curious if anyone already has one or at least very similar what your payload ended up being. Thanks!

I traded my 2012 Silverado 1500 for a new 2016 2500HD! It's an LT trim level, but has quite a few options. It has the All Star package and LT Plus package, which adds most of the important items. It also has a few extras, like the LED bed lighting and towing mirrors. MSRP was just a little over 50k. Here's a few completely stock, dealership photos. It looks pretty plain for a 50k truck!

I purchased a 2021 Silverado Z71 in April, and I love it, but an odd quirk with the infotainment system. Each time I get in my truck, with the same cell phone I always carry, I cannot make a voice activated call for up to 5 minutes. The response is always "please wait, I am loading your contacts". Why does the system load my contacts each time I get it the vehicle? Is there any way to have it store the contacts and not upload every time? Is it supposed to do this?

I have 2014 Silverado and went to the gas station one morning and out of nowhere started smelling gas inside of the truck. Long story short, went to look underneath truck and had a 3x3 ft size puddle of fuel underneath truck on ground. Looked to see where it was coming from and looks like it’s coming from back side of motor. Can anyone help or recommend any action to take from this?

I've had my truck for 10 days. Many things are great , it's the 2021 Crew cab, 5.3ecotech v-8 RST Z71. I now have 670 miles, none off- road. I traded in my 2006 Z71 at 168,000miles. This new truck has alot of rattles, I wasn't expecting that. What is it? It's coming from the middle or rear of the truck. Maybe the back seats and or the tailgate. Another rattle is up front around the brakes or tires. Anyone else have this going on?

Welcome to my build! Started with a 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4wd 5.3L, which I bought with 9k miles on her in August of 2020. Got a crazy good deal on it, justified me driving to Georgia from Houston to pick it up. It even came with the Ranch Hand front bumper on it already, other than that she was stock. Little bit of background on my past trucks, I've been fortunate to own quite a few: 07 JK Wrangler, 08 Silverado 1500 LT Z71, 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71, 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT w/ 6.2L, 2016 Denali 2500 Duramax, 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, and finally my 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71. I also have my 2015 ZL1 Camaro for a little bit of fun on the side, my wife has gone off to German side and is rocking her Porsche Cayenne. So here's the current list of mods: 4" Zone Lift kit w/ Fox rear shocks 35x11.50's Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock 20's Front and back Ranch Hand bumpers Hooker Blackheart Cat-back exhaust utilizing factory dual tips K&N Series 63 cold air intake Rough Country Automatic drop down steps Camlocker Tool box Front windows tinted to match back factory tint Front windshield tint strip Chevy All-Weather floor liners Stubby antenna Just went on a shopping spree of sorts and this is what I've got on order: Boost auto parts auto fog mod Putco Blade LED Tailgate Light Bar w/ Putco wiring harness All LED bulbs; replacing turn signals, license plate lights, and reverse lights. And the GRAND finale, King 2.5 PRS coilovers The list of things to come in the near future: High Country cluster from White Audio and Media, had their Tahoe cluster in my 2017 and it was fantastic! Waiting to order the rear King Resi PRS shocks until my checkbook bounces back a little bit. Lol Going to be putting on several LED light bars and maybe a pod or two, going to do my best to blend them into the Ranch Hands and make them as non conspicuous as possible. I'm strongly considering doing a Dyno tune w/ Kooks long tubes as well. Going to be doing ceramic tint all the way around. Limo on back windows and back glass, 15% on front windows, and 35% on the front windshield. I've got a drop in plastic bed liner that drives me crazy, so I'll more than likely go ahead and get the bed sprayed. Things I'm considering: Looking into changing up the rims and trying to clear 37's when the time comes for new tires. Blacking out the badges? Still not sold on this one... Turbo or a supercharger kit? This one would be way down the line though. Anything else that catches my attention, let me know if you can come up with anything! Here is the truck from stock:

I have a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd with the 4L60-e 4 speed transmission. Currently I have no speedometer and despite the transmission shifting very well, it skips second gear consistently (no intermittent functioning). This is the ONLY gear that it has issues with (reverse and the rest of the gears are good). Here is the story... I bought this truck being told the transmission was shot. Initially it would not shift past 1st and also had a functioning reverse. I had the tranny swapped with an equivalent from a suburban. It improved slightly but still there is no speedometer or second gear. NO ENGINE CODES have come up throughout this entire time including prior to tranny being swapped (this includes no ABS lights). Here are the different problems I have found on the internet that I have tried to rule out: VSS- A mechanic with a good computer states that all 3 Vehicle Speed Sensors read correct speeds in real time on the road Ignition switch- Already changed Fuses/relays- All appear to be intact and functioning Dash cluster- broken connections fixed restoring all function besides speedometer Transmission treatment- Lucas treatment put in in case this could be a sticky solenoid to no avail Grounds- All appear to be in excellent condition and no frayed wires visible Low Voltage- New battery in place Help me out! What I can see as being my next options are either changing out the ECU or the wiring harness, neither of which I am desiring to do. Any recommendations from your experience that I may have missed in my internet reading?

Hey y'all, I know this has been talked about a bunch but I just for some reason can't find the info I'm after. I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500, with the 5.3 and 4l60e, its a non z71 but with the same gear ratio I believe. Now I have a couple questions. 1. I want to swap to a 6.0 (maybe with some mods like a small cam, headers, maybe an intake), the 5.3 in the truck has been rebuilt but was used as a work truck and is "tired" so to say. I know a lot of people have said that to make the simplest "plug-and-play" setup to grab a 6.0 from 04-06(07 classic?) and it will run on the stock 5.3 tune (but recommend getting it retuned) I know that you can use the stock 4l60e but put some money into it to make it be able to hold the power and torque of a 6.0. I also know that to swap to a 4l80e trans it would require a crossmember and wiring at least, along with a different driveshaft, and since its 4x4, possible a different transfer case? So answering my own question with confirmation from someone, I could use a 04-06(07 classic?) 6.0 and just do a slight build on the stock 4l60e (which is currently slipping hoping just torque converter)? So on to my next question, I want to swap a z71 axle under the truck rather than the stock open diff. Would it be easier to swap out just the diff or to swap the whole axle? Is there any wiring for the limited slip/locking diff in the z71 axle? And is there a difference in the front diff? Also the truck currently is on 33" tires, and I plan to go to 35"s so should I just wait and have the truck regeared with an aftermarket limited slip or locker? And one final question for the interior guys out there. I hate the 99-02 steering wheel. I wanna swap to a 03-06 steering wheel. I know that the airbag itself will fit if I grab it off a 03-04 HD truck because its single stage, but what about the splines on the steering shaft? are those the same as the 99-02 1500 trucks? Or do I still have to swap that out for a newer steering shaft? Also how bad is it to run heated leather seats in these trucks that didn't have them from factory? I'm doing a mini restobuild on the truck but still need it to be a daily driver. Thanks for any input guys!!!

Hello ! I am new to the forums and am starting to build my 2001 Chevy Silverado Z71 as a fun daily driver. I purchased the vehicle after the original owner crashed it. (rear ended someone) Now I am looking to fix it up as my new daily driver. My goals for this build is to learn more about the 4L60e transmission and what is needed to rebuild it properly, as I plan on adding more power to the 5.3LS Truck currently sits at 180k so a tune up is in order first before anything brakes, fluids, belts ect. . I am posting my truck up into the forms for your guy's experience with these trucks. I have already painted\replaced front bumper, grill, headlights, fenders, and found a HD hood I found at a local pull and pay. I would like to lower the truck next, although I do not think C-notching is a great idea?? <<<Correct ME If I'm Wrong. Does anyone know what the lowest drop you can go with WITH OUT having to C-notch the frame is? I am not against C-notching I just never have don't think it would be a good idea to cut a frame on any car? I could be wrong, Thoughts? What's a great place to start rebuilding my 4L60 transmission? My goal is to eventually hit 400 WHP with the truck. But from what I have read I wont make it there with the stock 4l60. (4L80 is definitely the way to go, BUT with this truck being 4WD I would rather keep it simple and just rebuild the 4L60 that is in it. I fell 400 is more on the conservative side and can be accomplished with the 4L60e. Anyways if you have made it this far thanks for checking out the thread! -Ryan

Recently replaced plugs and wires in 2004 Chevy Silverado Z71. It now idles very rough almost to the point of stalling and misfiring. I found a forum somewhere that mentioned wrong plugs but now can't find it to show the hubby. Any help is appreciated! Love these forums!

Hi guys, I am new here and I have been enjoying my truck for about 7 months now. Just figured to take some photos of the truck since the first round of my mods is done. Mod list - 18 inch Volk Racing TE37 Large PCD Wheels - Retrax Tonneau Cover - AMP Research Powerstep I hope you guys enjoy the photos

Just wondering if theres much rubbing with 33s that are 11.5 wide.