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Showing results for tags '4l60'.
Found 7 results
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Hello ! I am new to the forums and am starting to build my 2001 Chevy Silverado Z71 as a fun daily driver. I purchased the vehicle after the original owner crashed it. (rear ended someone) Now I am looking to fix it up as my new daily driver. My goals for this build is to learn more about the 4L60e transmission and what is needed to rebuild it properly, as I plan on adding more power to the 5.3LS Truck currently sits at 180k so a tune up is in order first before anything brakes, fluids, belts ect. . I am posting my truck up into the forms for your guy's experience with these trucks. I have already painted\replaced front bumper, grill, headlights, fenders, and found a HD hood I found at a local pull and pay. I would like to lower the truck next, although I do not think C-notching is a great idea?? <<<Correct ME If I'm Wrong. Does anyone know what the lowest drop you can go with WITH OUT having to C-notch the frame is? I am not against C-notching I just never have don't think it would be a good idea to cut a frame on any car? I could be wrong, Thoughts? What's a great place to start rebuilding my 4L60 transmission? My goal is to eventually hit 400 WHP with the truck. But from what I have read I wont make it there with the stock 4l60. (4L80 is definitely the way to go, BUT with this truck being 4WD I would rather keep it simple and just rebuild the 4L60 that is in it. I fell 400 is more on the conservative side and can be accomplished with the 4L60e. Anyways if you have made it this far thanks for checking out the thread! -Ryan
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All gears are working other than 1st, if you put it in drive it starts in 3rd, and you can manually shift it into 2nd but not 1st. I saw on some other forums it could be solenoid A is that right?
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My recently purchased '05 Silverado 1500 has no problem shifting except between 2nd and 3rd. On upshifts, it shifts out of second, then there is a small flare, then it tries to engage 3rd, then it flares again, then it engages 3rd. It takes about a second and it's very consistent. On downshifts, it acts pretty similarly but it essentially acts like it's in neutral for .5 seconds. If I'm in 3rd or 4th and I depress the accelerator, revs out to 4k or 5k and then roughly engages 2nd. Otherwise it's perfect. No slipping, normal shifts, normal idle behavior, reverse works well, no noises or smells. The transmission fluid level and color is fine. I did some googling and narrowed it down to the computer, valve body, or solenoid which is basically not narrowed at all. Has anyone else had and fixed this problem?
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Hi everyone this is my first post and this is my first Silverado. So I was pulling an empty car trailer on the highway when I saw some smoke coming from my truck, followed by by it revving to the moon without grabbing. I got a alert saying trans temp has hot. I pulled over and noticed it was dripping trans fluid. After looking underneath I noticed what looks like a breather tube on top of the trans. This seems to be where the fluid is coming out from but I'm not sure yet. The trans seems to grab the gears under 1k for a little bit then it just slips entirely like being in neutral. I'm in formiliar with this truck and before I have someone take a look I'd like to hear what you guys think it could be. Side note right before I got the truck (2000k miles ago) the previous owner said "new trans" just installed. Could I have just blown a trans line? Vaccum line? Any reply is appreciated
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Okay so, first post as well as first time using the forum so I don't ask something properly please forgive me. I'm trying to rebuild the trans on my 02 sierra 1500 2wd and for some reason I didn't purchase the correct model year rebuild kit. Dumb I know lol, but I'm wondering if I can make it work anyway or whether to suck it up and just return it. I'm trying to get this done quickly, but if it's going to be an issue I'll just return it and get the right one. I'm not extremely familiar with the differences in model years beyond the removable bell housing and length differences. The kit I bought on accident was for a 93-96. I realize the odds that I can make this work are slim especially given the changes around 95 and 96, but I thought I'd ask anyway. Sorry if this has been asked before.
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I own a 2007 GMC Sierra Crew Cab NBS 4x4 with a 5.3L with 28K on it. I'm interested in building/swapping the transmission for a built version better suited to frequent hauling/towing considerable weight and up to 500 ft/lbs torque. Bulletproof comes to mind. If I could do a modded 4L80E "affordably" and it not be a hack job, I'm game. Whenever my budget recovers from the transmission, I'll move to differentials and engine mods. I never race the truck or travel off-road beyond a boat ramp or to park near a trail. I plan to keep this truck for a very long time. While mechanically inclined, I no longer have access to a lift (or a garage). I'm hoping someone might know of a reputable (and reasonable) shop to handle the transmission build/swap? I'm also looking to have a RC 3.5" suspension lift installed (both control arms, tie rods, u-joints). I'm in Western, MA (01085 zip) so I'm near Northern, CT and Hartford but willing to travel further for a talented group. If anyone has recommendations for mods to build me a nice comfy bulletproof tow truck (short of suggesting I buy a 2500 or swap to a 6.0L e.t.c.) - I'd certainly love to hear from you. At this point, I'm fairly clueless with LS motors, GM transmissions e.t.c. Been busy racing Mazdas.. New ported/polished heads, matching cam, intake manifold, headers/exhaust and ECU tune should put the 5.3 in the 480ft/lbs torque range without FI. Is that reasonable? Thank you in advance!
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