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  1. So I was out at glamis Sand dunes over the hallween weekend and I took my 2015 1500 out into the Sand dunes to drive around. After some moderate dune basing I crested a dune a moments later the side curtain airbags deployed. Long story short, Im looking for a way to disable to side curtain airbags to avoid future deployment when out in the desert. But I have had no real luck locating a fuse to pull in order to achieve this. Does anyone know where I can find that fuse?
  2. 2016 Silverado 1500 custom Hopefully they fit. 2 inch leveling kit up front. Pre runner bumper. Rears stock. Got -38 mm wheels coming in. 17x9. Shipped today. should look good. much debated topic I didn’t see anything on the size either. I’ll be that guy. It should fit nicely I’m thinking. It’s a 33.8x12.2r17 ordered today. 11/2
  3. Hello! First I’d like to say that I’m new here and not sure if I’m in the correct place to be asking this or not, but I am in need of serious help with this engine... The truck is a 1999 LS silverado 1500 with a 5.3L vortec v8 lm7 in it. 265K miles. When I first got the truck this wasn’t an issue it just progressively got worse and worse until it just did it fully 24/7. I know this is a very common issue with these engines, but the symptoms I’ve been having are not the same as what Ive been seeing other people having. The truck started having a low oil pressure problem, where it would be fine when cold full around 25-30 psi, then as it warmed up / as I drove it, the pressure would slowly drop until 0psi, sometimes this wouldn’t happen till after driving 50+ miles, sometimes it would happen in 10 miles. Now after replacing the pump it does it in literally 1 mile. After it would drop to 0psi the lifter chatter/tap/knock (whatever you want to call it) would finally start up. I would stop the truck kill the engine then restart it. Most of the time after id restart the engine, the pressure would rebuild back up (lifter tap would go away) and I’d go for a mile or two, and then the whole process would just repeat itself. Make a long story a bit shorter... I ended up replacing the oil pump, with a mellings 295 pump, cleaned out as much gunk as I could, got the oil pan nice and squeaky clean... The truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, had really good oil pressure. it did lose all oil pressure entirely on my first test drive but it never had a lifter tap or made any noise when that happened I just pulled over killed it, started it back up and bam it had normal oil pressure.... After that happened, the truck did fine for a couple hundred miles, then out of nowhere it would just randomly start ticking even when it had OK oil pressure 15-25 psi. Prior to replacing the pump when the engine was cold it wouldn’t even build up oil pressure right after starting, usually took like 10 seconds + of it running for it too build pressure. And it would only build up to about 25psi and it stayed there even when warm. Now after the oil pump replacement, when the engine is cold the oil pressure will build immediately and be at around 60 psi, then as it warms up it slowly drops to 40, I’ll get out onto the road and as I barely make my way down the road, it slowly drops until it gets down towards 5-10psi and then the lifter tap will start up, doesn’t usually drop fully down to 0 like it did prior to the oil pump replacement. It usually atleast has a couple psi, but that ain’t enough obviously lol cause it’s ticking. When it does this, I have no choice but to pull over, kill the engine, start it back up, and it builds back a little bit of pressure. But it still has the lifter tap it doesn’t go away like it would before “sometimes”.... And it’s bad, I can definitely feel a power loss, also can notice a change in the way the engine sounds other than ticking, like a ****** in the timing or something? I know it’s NOT good and the ticking means there’s no oil getting to the head, so please save the lecture, please... I’m just at a loss as to why this would still be happening after replacing the pump? The pump doesn’t do what it did before I replaced it, which was, it would fail to build pressure after starting the truck when cold, that’s what made me think the pump was failing so I replaced it, and the new pump DID fix that issue... lol but that’s it... so I know it can’t be the pump right? I mean it’s literally brand new... I also tried to make sure the o ring wasn’t pinched when re-installing the pump... I really just need some good insight on this issue from someone that knows these engines well, this is killing me! This is my only vehicle I need to get this figured out ASAP. I did all the work myself, 23 year old guy, grew up working on bikes then transferred over into cars/trucks, not an expert by any means but I’m no dummy that’s forsure hahahah. Any help is appreciated! & The truck is a great truck, it’s an all around clean truck, the last owner definitely took care of it, so it’s not like it’s a big ass pos. Well kinda I guess lol..
  4. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com October 10th, 2019 Chevrolet is giving the not so subtle hint that the rumored Silverado ZRX model is about to become reality. Today, the brand announced that a "Silverado Race Truck" would compete in this weekend's Laughlin Desert Classic alongside the Hall Racing Colorado ZR2. Interestingly, the Silverado will compete in the Desert's 1200 Stock Class, which limits changes to suspension, under body, and race-safety equipment. What does that mean? This truck is not only ready to race, it's close to production too. The "Silverado Race Truck" is outfitted with a number of aftermarket goodies that look like they were ripped right off a Colorado ZR2. Starting as an LT Trail Boss with the 6.2L V8, the Silverado Race Truck is outfitted with a long travel suspension, front and rear jounce shocks and Multimatic DSSV dampers. In short... the modifications that Chevy applies to the Colorado for the ZR2 model. Why didn't Chevy just come out and call this the ZRX Race Truck? We're not sure, but there's no doubt this is a low flying announcement made to pave the way towards an eventual Silverado model that emulates the ZR2's success in a larger package. Whether that's enough to take on the Ford Raptor is too early to determine. Stay tuned for updates on the "Silverado Race Truck" and future Silverado ZRX.
  5. Hello, I’m thinking about putting a six inch lift from superlift on my 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4wd, extended cab. My question today is what would be the recommended wheel size (both tire and rim) for this setup and I’d like it to preferably stick out on the side a bit but it’s not needed. I know many run 35” but again I’m not sure.
  6. Hello, looking to upgrade my rancho stock shocks to bilstein 5100 shocks but would like to level the front end. Could anyone please tell me which ones I need to do so? Is there a certain series other than just the 5100? Also what would be the best place to purchase as far as best price. I have 2016 chevy silverado z71. Thanks for any info!!
  7. Can any give some insight on which wires are connected to which speakers on the green plug. I have attached a picture. There are a total of 10 wires and I’m assuming they are (LF+/-)(RF+/-), (RR+/-), (LR+/-) 12V and ground but do not know which goes to where. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
  8. Are you Looking to change your headlights and grille on your custom Silverado to the LED HID / signature curtain daytime running lights that High Country’s come with and the bow tie grille ? Here’s how I did this to my Custom Trailboss ... how to video. Videos nothing special but it’ll give you the pics with notes /video clips that I took so you can convert yours over if your wanting to . Back when I did this conversion I couldn’t find anything online that really shows how you do this so hopefully this helps the next person do this . Takes about 3-4 hours cost is about $3k for all new oem parts . I got my headlights , wire harness through Gen5DIY.com $2400 and the bow tie grille $580 through gm parts warehouse. Both are great companies I’d fully recommend that made the process really easy . I’ll list the part numbers too if you wanna research and look for some lower prices if wanna go with used parts or shop around if you wanna that route but don’t forget you’ll still need the headlight harness which is about $250 from Gen5DIY to make all the lights work properly . After you sell your used Custom headlights and grille parts from the conversion you can get back about 1k dropping the cost involved about 2k with new parts. May ask why not just buy the LT trail boss ., well here’s why I did not .. when I researched this is what I found ., My Red Custom trail boss came with the halogen lights and the LT Trailboss has the better looking lights that are LED (not too bright though but have a good look to them still) but they are not HID LED which are way brighter unless you buy the midnight black edition trail boss or the high country which #1 I wanted the red trail boss not black , # 2 I wanted HID LED lights not just the LED lights , so I made my own custom set up for a small cost compared to getting a midnight edition Trailboss or high country part numbers LT Black Trailboss Grill with Z71 emblem 84493318 New 2019-2021 Silverado 1500 High Country HID LED head light assembly Drivers side LH. : 84621852 Passenger side RH : 84621853
  9. It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.
  10. I have finally got around to finalizing the install of the OEM RSE system for my 2016 Silverado HD. This was the only option that I wanted that my pickup did not come with so I am extremely happy this is done and so is my son! I would like to give a BIG THANKS to Anthony and John at MVI (www.gm-navigation.com) as they are extremely knowledgeable and their customer service is top notch. I purchased MVI's in-dash Blu-ray and RSE kits along with the unlocked HMI module and added their HDMI input and third brake lamp camera with switch. The unlocked HMI is definitely worth the money over a Lockpick as you have full control while in motion and don’t have to worry about the Lockpick failing as I had 2 of 2 fail in my old 2010 Silverado. MVI supplied most of the parts though I did source a few parts from the dealer as I did vary a little from MVI's kit as I wanted the RSE controls in the center console which their current kit does not yet have but was told it is on their to-do list with many other projects. Their HDMI kit requires the RSE controls as you tap into those inputs. I removed one of the cigar lighter outlets in the front of the center console and mounted the HDMI input there. If you stick to their kit, the install is fairly simple IF you have a sunroof. Once again, MVI offers great customer service in case you do run into any glitches. They are also a vendor on here as well if you did not know. NOTE: ***NON-SUNROOF VEHICLES*** You do need a new headliner if you don't have a sunroof as you need the mounting bracket for the screen which offsets the screen from of the original position of the overhead dome lamp leaving ts existing hole exposed. On sunroof vehicles, the dome lamp and screen use the sunroof frame to mount to and you just enlarge the existing dome lamp hole.
  11. Just installed the Go Rhino RB20’s with the Bed liner coating. I’m really happy with how they look... I wanted something high and tight to the bottom of the cab. 
  12. So around this time of year last year I changed my brakes and my rotors and was going to replace my front bearings as well. My 08 is a Michigan truck so it’s got a plethora of rust accumulated. One of caliper bolts had seized so I completed what I could with the brakes and headed home to figure the best attack for a seized rusted bolt with thread lock. Anyways that bolt was a ******, so I went to my brother cause he had an air compressor and thought we’d try that. Needless to say the bolt one, so my brother put the wheel back together but before he put the caliper back in place over the rotor he decided to decompress the spring?. Why? I have zero idea thought it was pointless for him to do that Considering I had to do it to change the springs. So I start to head back home just worried about getting this bolt out so I can change my bearing. So as I start to leave I don’t notice anything out of place until I get down the road and my brake pedal goes to the floor. It made no sense, I couldn’t figure out what happened in the 30 minutes I was there; that would take my brakes from having good pressure to having none. Then not long after that my fuel pump goes. Old Murphy’s law coming in clutch for me! So I get the fuel pump swapped get the caliper freed so I could replace my bearing. Then go to bleed my brakes and I can’t get any of my brake pedal back. I have abs so I I went out and bought a scan tool cause I heard bleeding brakes with an abs system without the scan tool is difficult and is more than likely the reason my brakes still go to the floor. So I do everything the device tells me to. There’s no change, except now I can’t shift it out of park to even attempt to check if there’s at least some pressure. I’ve been battling these brakes so at least the last half of 2021 my family is telling me to just sell it for whatever. Honestly I don’t want to sell it I rather enjoy having it and am not ready to let it go. Any help or advice would be so appreciated!
  13. I'm about to install the Chevy Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade on our Silverado. Has anyone else installed this kit? Anyone thinking about it? At first glance, it seems pretty straightforward. After reading the manual, however, I'm realizing I need to take the front wheel bearings off to access the dust shield. Other than that, it seems to be a easy rotor/caliper replacement. Big thanks to @RyanbabZ71 for recommending a great brake bleeding tool! The front set is a true six-piston caliper. The rear calipers are stock calipers painted red to match the fronts. The size increase on the front rotors is significant. I'm gathering the tools I'll need right now. Hopefully I can tear into it next week. I expect the entire process to take me at least a whole day and maybe two days depending on how it goes. Why so long? I'll be photographing and taking video of the entire process. Can't wait to share that with you all. Check back in this thread for progress updates.
  14. Hope you guys are doing well! Found a lovely deal for a chevy 2016 - LT Z71 - V5.3 This is my first truck and looking to lift it. found a good price for Rough Country lift kit - 3.5 inch BILSTEIN 5100: https://psp.ae/product/bilstein-performance-shocks-15/ Rough Country KIT: https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-suspension-lift-kit-275-8.html Many people been complaining about how cheap the rough country shocks are, so I was thinking is it possible to install Bilstein 5100 shocks kit on this kit? or would they not fit into these? This way I would lift the truck + level it + have some what better shocks I thought about selling the Rough Country shocks instead Your thought and experience are much appreciated!
  15. A question here. I put my winter tires and wheels fromy 2019 Silverado 2500HD onto my new 2021 Silverado 3500HD and the truck will not read the TPMS sensors. The tire shop said the dealer needs to reprogram the sensors to the new truck. Took it to the dealer and they say that this cannot be done even though the TPMS part numbers are identical between the years and that I need to buy new sensors for the new truck. Any help would be appreciated as this makes no srnse to me! Thanks in advance.
  16. I have a 2017 Silverado 5.3L. Used to stay around 40 pounds of oil. Now when idling, is goes down to 20-25 ish pounds. It’s not throwing any codes up but does have a bit of a knock if I floor it without letting the pressure build back up first. Cold start it’s just below 40 pounds but at operating temps (210) it drops like crazy. It’s not oil quality or level, I just changed it last week and it was good for half a day and went back down.
  17. I'm interested in a quick read of the room. How does everyone feel about the news that GM is moving in the direction of an battery electric truck? Does the brand it's sold under influence if you'd be interested? Are you ready to buy one now or do you think we should wait it out? Thanks for your opinions!
  18. Hi Everyone, I could have sworn I already posted this, but I can't find it anywhere. My 2015 GMC Sierra All Terrain SLT 1500 truck's media center seems is glitchy, it's either that or I have a haunted truck. I'll be driving and my radio display and my odometer display will randomly start selecting items and cycling through the menu, it will randomly change stations, and one time it even selected voice command, all without any input. Anyway, I've experienced this issue before and I took it to the dealer and while they told me they had never heard or seen the issue before they suggested that they would perform a software / firmware update on my infotainment / intellilink system to see if that would fix the issue and it worked.... for a few months, now it's back. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced the same thing and if they were able to find a permanent fix for it? It is absolutely annoying and very distracting. I have searched this forum and I haven't seen a post from a member that has the same thing that I have experienced. Any help would be appreciated, I'd like to have a permanent fix for this once and for all. I've include a video of what's going on.
  19. Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
  20. Part: GM 13525431, Receptacle Assembly, Multi Media *Jet Black Just posting a thread on here if someone who has a 2019 Silverado with the one USB type B port, you can easily upgrade to a module that has a USB-C, USB-B, and an SD card port very quickly and easily in under 5 minutes. I bought mine from eBay and it ran me $27.19 plus shipping. I bought a trim removal kit on Amazon and used the one circled to pry it from the bottom and when the bottom popped out a bit, I pried it from the left side and it just popped out very quickly. After that, just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. FYI, I also bought the module that just has just the USB-C and USB-B ports (without the SD card port) and I don't believe that one would work since it needs an extra cable to be plugged into and I was searching around and didn't find one -- you probably need a different harness for that one. What I've noticed so far is that Apple CarPlay will pickup my iPhone a bit faster, skip through the songs a bit faster, and it charges my phone a bit faster, as well. I haven't tried the SD card functionality yet but I can hope that it may be a necessary requirement for people that have IOR radios to upgrade to the IOS ones with navigation.
  21. Alright, before you say you don’t hear anything let me explain first. This video posted below is my 2021 Trail Boss 3500k miles and has the most annoying exhaust sound. I know there’s some serious pro’s on here who could tell me what’s going on. Essentially any time I start it up high RPM, accelerate, or decrease RPM’s I’m greeted with this annoying metallic rattling noise coming from exhaust. Took it to dealer who claims it’s normal (per-usual) and says it’s the liters I can hear in the exhaust tone. They checked exhaust donuts and heat shields and found no issue. However you can hear a rattle and what sounds like an exhaust leak. Was told it’s a flapper but it’s not, flapper is toward back passenger side. This is front passenger side. I could best describe it as escaping air coming from somewhere near the manifold I’d assume. Almost like a metallic farting exhaust noise for lack of better description. Videos to follow of noise while commuting.
  22. 305 70 17 2 inch spacers front. ordered -38 mm offset wheels pre runner front bumper trimmed inner fender to metal line just ordered a 3 inch rear block lift with new shocks. should be able to pull it off. May throw on a 1.5 inch body lift. not sure how I feel about the NorCal mod. stay tuned!
  23. Hi everyone, first time posting, but long time reader. I usually try to avoid posting when I can, and just browse the threads and read about related problems and figure it out from there. Even though I've found many threads that are similar to the problem Im having, I still can't narrow it down to my next step. so if anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. Ok so, BAD oil leak problem with my friends 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. It's had this leak for a while, but it's gotten to the point now where it's starting to leave puddles. I power washed the entire area, and I actually got it pretty clean. Today when I looked again to see if I could trace the source, I had a much clearer picture of where the leaks are actually coming from. From what I've read it seems as though it could be the valve cover gasket, the crankshaft sensor, the rear main seal, or even the oil pan gasket. My problem is that to me, it looks like it's coming from almost all these places. I looked inside the bell housing and I don't see it looking completely soaked in oil. It does however, look like the leak is mainly coming from in front of the bell housing behind the engine, in between the two. I'll attach some pictures. These would be from overnight after I power washed it, so the oil hasn't blown anywhere from being driven or anything. Thanks so much to anyone who's got any ideas!
  24. Looking to buy a new set of all terrain tires for my 2016 Silverado (3.5 inch suspension lift). Have many mixed reviews regarding which tires to go with. I am looking for somewhat aggressive look that will hold up well in city usage, and most importantly are quiet on the highway. Looking to run 33's on 20x10 -25 mm offset aftermarket wheels (purchasing a wheel and tire package thats why the wheels are not in the picture) . All opinions and suggestions are appreciated!
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