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Hello, I purchased my truck a few months ago and most of the time i need to press the button 2-5 times to drop my tailgate without any help. With a little (and i mean 5 lbs) of pulling while pressing the button it works most of the time, even then i might have to press it twice. The truck is a new body 2019 Silverado LT 4x4. It started doing this day one, i thought it might just need to work in/break in and it did not. Is anyone else having this issue? If so do you know how to fix it? I have tried with the vehicle on level ground and even then it does not work all the time also i tried it on grounds where the front is up a few inches and i would still have to press at least twice. Every 50 times or so it will go down with one press. Any help will be appreciated.

GM has available now factory camper mirrors! Time for a nice run down on them and what is involved. What they are: Factory tow mirrors. https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/extended-view-tow-mirrors-in-black-84731241?year=2020&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado%201500&categoryId=98023 Price? Part #? 84731241 is the #, MSRP for the mirror package is $730. What do they feature? Includes lower convex spotter glass, as well as cargo lamps, clearance lamps and integrated turn signal indicator. Manual extend and manual fold. The good: -GM has factory tow mirrors available as an accessory for trucks that don't have them! The bad: - 2020+up ONLY at the moment. They do NOT list them for 2019. - They DO REQUIRE HARNESS SWAPS. Both front doors require new door harnesses. - If you have the front spotter lights in the mirrors or have blind spot alert, THESE WILL NOT WORK! - BCM calibration required for ALL models to make all lighting function. If you have the dealer do it, its about 3.6 hours. Harness numbers will be listed below: 2020-2021 Crew and Double Cab with KEYED ignition and DLF mirror: 84622369 and 84622370 2020-2021 Regular Cab with KEYED ignition and DLF mirror: 84622376 and 84622380 2020-2021 Crew and Double Cab with PUSH BUTTON ignition and DLF mirror: 84622371 and 84622372

Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com October 10th, 2019 Chevrolet is giving the not so subtle hint that the rumored Silverado ZRX model is about to become reality. Today, the brand announced that a "Silverado Race Truck" would compete in this weekend's Laughlin Desert Classic alongside the Hall Racing Colorado ZR2. Interestingly, the Silverado will compete in the Desert's 1200 Stock Class, which limits changes to suspension, under body, and race-safety equipment. What does that mean? This truck is not only ready to race, it's close to production too. The "Silverado Race Truck" is outfitted with a number of aftermarket goodies that look like they were ripped right off a Colorado ZR2. Starting as an LT Trail Boss with the 6.2L V8, the Silverado Race Truck is outfitted with a long travel suspension, front and rear jounce shocks and Multimatic DSSV dampers. In short... the modifications that Chevy applies to the Colorado for the ZR2 model. Why didn't Chevy just come out and call this the ZRX Race Truck? We're not sure, but there's no doubt this is a low flying announcement made to pave the way towards an eventual Silverado model that emulates the ZR2's success in a larger package. Whether that's enough to take on the Ford Raptor is too early to determine. Stay tuned for updates on the "Silverado Race Truck" and future Silverado ZRX.

This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough

New to the forum here, and I have a 2005 chevy silverado 1500 with the 5.3L. I drive to and from michigan from chicago for college every couple of weeks. The last time I drove up to michigan 2 hours into my drive the oil pressure gauge started slowly moving down from 40psi. Every 10 minutes it seemed it moved down a notch until it got to 15psi and then I pulled over just to investigate because the truck was running perfectly normal and no warning lights or anything were on. I did a walk around, no leaks, no engine noise and the oil level was in the same place as when I left. Also when I stopped the pressure gauge dropped to 0 at idle and the truck idled normal. I continued to drive till i got to my destinations 30 minutes later. The next day when I started it back up the oil pressure is now reading normal and has read normal for the last week. I went to tech school and I know my way around an engine and i'm almost positive this isn't a mechanical issue, im thinking its the oil pressure sensor or sending unit or it could be the gauge itself because first gen silverados are famous for bad gauges but i feel if it was a bad sensor there would be warning lights? Not sure though, any of you guys experience an issue like this or have any idea of what to check or what it could be?? Much appreciated!!

The 2019 Silverado has plenty of overhead space to place a simple sunglass holder and a garage remote. I’ve got an RST, and I wish these features were present. Apparently, none of the 2019 Silverado trims carry these combined luxeries. There is more overhead ceiling space in my 2019 Silverado than in my 2018 Tahoe LT, yet my Tahoe has both a sunglass holder and a garage remote, (as well as a kiddy-view mirror). (See pics) To compensate for these lack of features, I currently clip on a typical garage remote (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAB9FEO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on my driver side overhead visor, as well as a clip-on sunglass holder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SNNWKB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on the same visor. (It’s like my vehicle is from the 1980s!!!) (see pic). This all works ok, but it’s a pain when I have to move my visor, especially when I detach it to place it next to the driver side door window, and then try to put it back in place again. For a $50,000 truck, a built-in sunglass holder and garage remote, should be standard features! (Just like in the Chevy Tahoe LT) (See pics). Has anyone seen or currently use a better after market solution? An after market center-placed overhead sunglass holder and garage remote? (So I can free up my overburdened “1980’s-like” visor...) Thanks, Ron (2019RST)

I'm partial to the looks of the Sierra which is primarily why i got the AT4. Whilst searching for wheels on Fuel's website, i came across this Silverado and i was like wow, that is beautiful. Those lime-green ascents are very well done. And is that matte gray i see? If i was getting the Silverado, this would have been my primary motivation; to make it look like this. If this is your Silverado, please show yourself to receive a like. I ended up purchasing those wheels, least i could do. P.S I don't want to start a pissing contest between Sierra and Silverado appearance.

Not to beat a dead horse but I can only seem to find info on 2014-2016.... My Truck: 2017 Sierra CC SLT 5.3 with the stock 20in (20x9) rims & Bilstein 5100s at 1.25" I want to get new tires (nitto ridge grapplers or toyos etc) and I would like to move up to a 285/55r20 if possible. From what I've read I know the UCAs changed for 2017 making guys experience rubbing on the UCAs with 33s on levels. Was wondering if anyone had done a 285/55 on stock rims with stock height or Bilsteins and did they rub, or rub all the time/just full lock? TIA -Ed

Looking to put proformance muffler on my 2019 trail boss, it comes with the “dule” exhaust, any suggestions which one to go with to give it a little something that I feel like it’s lacking. Had dule magnaflow on 2008 gmc slt, that was great. Any thoughts would help

It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.

Hey guys and gals I was hoping y’all could answer a question of mine. I currently own a 2019 Silverado trail boss with the 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. A mechanic told me the transmission is a ticking time bomb if I do any performance mods. Such as a cam swap and tune. So I explained my plan for the future. Cold air intake, flow master exhaust, headers, tune and cam swap. He said if I do any of the big changes to the engine the tranny may go out. The reason why is because the stock transmission was only made to handle the stock HP and TQ. Have any of y’all had an issue like this after some big performance mods?

Anyone else experiencing a hard shift or hesitation of the engine when you first hit the gas. For example, I start the truck, reverse out of the driveway, put the car in drive and when I hit the gas, the truck goes toward and then i feel the truck completely stop for a second (hesitation) and then it continues forward, I only expierence this when I’m going from reverse to forward. I come to a complete stop and do not shift to drive when moving backwards still.

Hi everyone, So since my purchase of a 2016 Silverado 1500 in May the main problem I've had with the truck is its inconsistent ride quality. The truck is a WT with power windows and locks. Cloth seats. And vinyl floor. The truck only has 27000 miles, well kept and maintained. Used as a commuter truck to work, aswell as work on the side (Electrician). Truck was purchased with only 22000 miles on it. No issues other than leaking pinion seal which is in the process of being fixed. At first I thought it was the tires so I had them balanced, rotated, and had an alignment done. While that helped it didnt fix the issue at hand which is how hard this truck drives It's a very uncomfortable ride at all speeds. Even on freshly paved highways and roads it still drives rough. What defines "rough" is the hitting of minor bumps. It can be just an ever so slight crack in the road to minor pits. I've done some testing and drove another vehicle (An f-150) down those same roads and had no where near as much of a impact and hit as my own truck. Now it's not a major impact like hitting something that you really shouldnt. But it's very unsettling and jarring at times as you would be driving the same roads you have been for years in different vehicles, and when you least expect it feel a nice jolt in your back when you usually wouldnt. If you need more understanding, put a handful of change in the compartment under the AC controls and drive around. I was wondering if it has anything to do with the stock suspension that comes along with the truck. Should I try out new shocks? Is there anything else I should try? I have no clue what to do and where to start but driving 45 minutes to work with the truck makes my back hurt as much as after an 8 hour day of work. Thanks

Currently in the process of trouble shooting a p0304 code. Ruled out a bad coil pack by hooking an ohm meter to it and also swapping cylinder 2 & 4 to see if the the Mis fire would follow. Replaced spark plugs, plug wires, and put a can of sea-foam in the intake. Not hearing any abnormal sounds coming from the engine while running. Just a steady misfire on 4. I’m thinking it is a bad injector. Anyone else experience something similar, and to also see if anyone yet has tackled changing the injectors on the new models. Thank you

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:

So i been having a issue, first off i am a mechanic seeking advice for more experienced with ac. the system is charged full and the ac fan comes on when it wants to some time i start up its blowing but shit off truck and then ac will not come back on for another couple days i first thought was ac clutch fan or resistor... just need some input if any

I just purchased a 2019 Silverado 1500 Custom Crew Cab 2 weeks ago. They towed it back to the dealer this morning. I tried to drive it to work yesterday and the parking brake would not release. A tow driver came out yesterday, and he got it to release (while I was at work using another car). then I received two e-mails from On Star. One said a problem was detected with the Stabilitrack Stability Traction System. The second said a problem was detected with the anti-lock brake system, and I needed to get the truck serviced within 7 days. Since I didn't feel safe driving it there, I called GM's Roadside Assistance and had it towed back to the dealer today. According to the tow truck driver, the 2019 Silverado has a new electronic brake system they (GM) haven't used before. He said he's been towing a LOT of cars and trucks lately that have this new electronic brake system. I went to the dealership to get a loaner truck, and I asked them about the new system. The advisor there confirmed that there is a new brake system on the 2019 trucks, and they are having issues with it. (That would have been good to know before I bought it 2 weeks ago!) He told me they have parts and they have software upgrades to fix it, but it's going to be at least two days before he can even get it in the shop. We're a GM family and we've owned lots of brand new GM cars, but this is our first pickup truck. Has anyone else had this same issue? If so, were they able to resolve it successfully? I don't want to be in and out of the dealership every other week getting stuff fixed now. This is really disheartening.

I have a 2018 Sierra 6.2 with Kooks headers, Kooks cats and K&N CAI. I've been thinking about installing a Whipple or a Procharger but I'm considering nitrous too. I'm looking at a Nitrous Express 20936 kit. I just want the extra occasionally and I'm concerned that the supercharger noise will be annoying. Anyone using nitrous on their similar truck?

Okay so I’m engine swapping my 4.3 v6 2003 Silverado to a 5.3 V8. I have purchased the engine and transmission and I’ve been putting it together in my free time. Recently I purchased what I thought was a stock Ls engine harness. Turns out I drove 1 hour and something minutes to find out he was selling me a “Stand Alone Harness.” Since I was there already I decided to buy it. Don’t ask me why just know it came at a impressive cheap price and it included a complete intake, fuel rails, k&n intake, fuse box & all that good stuff. Now my question is, what would change if i was to use the stand alone harness on my swap ? Would it even work ? I don’t have much knowledge on stand alone harnesses just that they are used in hot rods, c10s, obs, ect... Any help would be great!

Got my hands on a 2020 Silverado 2500hd! Long awaited for me for sure, seeing that they are making their way on to lots. Lets start! Exterior: This particular truck I drove was a Work Truck. In person, the HD is much easier on the eyes, but the WT is, I feel, the least attractive. I think its the black grille treatment that puts me off. This truck had the 17" carryover steel wheels, wrapped in LT265/70R17 Firestone TransForce AT tires (yes, the carryover AT not the AT2). Options list was minimal, including the WT Convenience Package, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, the AT tires and black bowties. Overall, the truck's exterior is very functional. The bed steps are genius. Sure, they don't tuck away like some aftermarket designs do, however as a result they maintain bed rocker ground clearance like there isn't even a step there. Now, I am personally not a running board guy, mainly for looks (and I think 1/2 tons and Colorados are too low stock for them), but this thing needs them! Definitely an increased step in height with the T1 over the K2 HD. Its noticeable. Also, the size increase is noticeable too. I think its within an inch or so height wise to a Super Duty, and the body is just as wide as one. They dwarf the K2 HD. I do think that the 18" wheels are a must for looks, as they run a 33" tire and suit the truck's profile much better than the 17" wheels do as a result of the 31.5" tire they use. The towing mirrors. Totally functional. I can definitely get behind the way they are mounted once you drive one. This one had the base tow mirror, so just heat and power upper glass. There is much better visibility in the A-Pillar to mirror sightline. I found the extending not what I thought it was going to be? Its actually positionally detented. You pull it out and it comes off the arm a touch and then hits the outer detent. No "in between" position, but that might be just because its the base mirror. Oh! Another interesting fact. No aluminum body panels anywhere that I could see. Its all steel. The hood, doors, tailgate, all steel. Honestly, I was expecting some aluminum somewhere, like the hood at least, maybe the doors. GM wasn't joking when they said it only shares the cab structure, otherwise everything was unique to the HD. The biggest giveaway to those keen enough to notice, is the "CHEVROLET" area on the tailgate. Its nowhere near as protruded on the gate as the 1500 gate. Interior: See 2019+ T1 1500. Don't expect anything different here. Its still a good interior ( I think), apart from some questionable material choices in spots. I will add one important bit. Anyone looking at a WT or Custom trim HD, make sure you sit in an LT or higher with a power seat. The hood is even higher yet than a K2 HD, and the tall front at the end of the hood can be a bit tricky. I'm 5'10" and felt the standard seat to be ok, but some more height would have been nice around a parking lot/close to other cars. The mirrors, see the exterior description above. Powertrain/How it drives: The big bit. This truck had the 6.6 L8T gas V8. For being as large and heavy as this truck is, that powertrain is much improved over the L96, and long overdue. I didn't time anything, but it can move quite well when you want it to. I pulled out from an intersection normally, hit 2nd gear and rolled right into it and it took off quick. The K2 HD dead feeling accelerator pedal is gone too (thank god) and the power feels in line with your right foot. Much better response. Mileage wise, I averaged 15mpg, I'd say 65/35 city-highway split? Even the 6L90 shifting is improved. Do I still hope they throw the 10L90 in it? Yep. But the 6L90 has been a strong unit, and the added power makes it a good package for the time being. The added wheelbase smooths the ride out a touch. Stiffness? Well, its an HD LOL and had 80psi in the rear tires, but it was still well behaved. Overall, a nice improvement on the K2 HD. Love the mirrors, love the power, the bed steps all around. Love the look more or less, could use some interior help for sure. Big thanks to Cavallaro Neubauer Chevrolet in Williamson NY for letting me borrow this beast! Link to the window sticker for the truck: https://www.cnchevy.com/f_WindowSticker?VIN=1GC4YLE79LF117398&cs:o=%window_sticker%&cs:o=%27WindowSticker%27

This weekend someone slammed my passenger door probably to hard in my opinion. Not sure if this is the cause of the problem but the issue did start soon after. The Window and mirror lost power first intermittently, now completely. I checked the fuse and also didn’t see anything obvious as far as wires being loose or broken from the harness. Any suggestions or recommendations for a fix would be greatly appreciated.

Need some opinions on what the heck is going on with my 2007 silverado classic. It has a 4.8 litre vortec with an afe cold air intake, edge cts2 programmer, gibson shorty headers, and a 3 inch catback exhuast. I have the code p0430 coming up but cant figure out what it is. Ive done a back pressure test on the cats, and did knock sensors and all O2 sensors a year ago. It doesnt feel like it has a misfire and im very mechanically inclined and everything in this truck is looked after. When i bought it there was a 4wd code and it wouldnt engage so i swapped out the button cluster in the cab and now it works fine. Other than that the truck has been perfect but id like to figure out what the heck is setting off the code. I have no exhuast leaks and the cats checked out perfect, anyone know what else it could be? Im looking for anything at this point, i hate check engine lights and have cleared it with the programmer but it comes back very shortly after being cleared. Thanks

What’s the cheapest most efficient 3/5, 4/6 lowering kit or drop for a 2014 Silverado crew cab standard bed 2wd 5.3???

I recently purchased a '17 Silverado Hd 2500 Duramax, and I swear it has been back to the dealer more than I've had ( exaggeration ). But more recently I have developed the same issue with hard vibration at highway speeds, feeling like the steering wheel is about to come free. I literally just got the truck back yesterday , only to find out that they pretty much just let my vehicle sit for two days while they did nothing to it at all. I brought the mechanic out for a ride, bc they state they can't reproduce the issue. Took the guy out on I-95 and punched it.. ( frustration ) , within a second, the steering wheel was all over the place. The mechanics reaction was to say that was normal.... I called my fleet mechanic, said he knows what the issue is , and will order the new gearbox .... If GM knows of this issue, Why are dealerships so difficult to get to do the work? ( Delray Buick Gmc )

I have a 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 2 wheel drive 4.3l v6 and the transmission went out yesterday. I was wondering what transmissions are interchangeable with my truck. Please help.