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Got a 07 Silverado 1500 classic crew cab with the short bed 5.8ft. Need to replace my bed but having trouble finding another short bed. does anyone know if I could put the regular 6ft bed on and will the wheel wheel/fuel filler neck, and bolts line up? thank you

NEW BILL SO WE CAN REPAIR OUR TRUCKS

I need to add power to my power seats can I get ground and power from my audio system and connect it to the pins on the seat plug to be able to get power and move the seat

Hello everyone! So Im new in the truck world good myself a chevy avalanche 04 for my 18 birthday. It had a ac issue where passenger side would blow hot air. After diagnosis I found out that the blend door actuator was bad so I tried replacing it. I had to take out the passenger side airbag to access it. It was very tight and in the removal process I broke the shaft that controls the door :,(. Now what there isn't enough space in there to just epoxy the shaft back on. Any ideas? Summer is coming up here in so cal so for now ill just bypass the heater core but for future it would be nice to have heating lol. Any help is appreciated.

Anyone else experiencing a hard shift or hesitation of the engine when you first hit the gas. For example, I start the truck, reverse out of the driveway, put the car in drive and when I hit the gas, the truck goes toward and then i feel the truck completely stop for a second (hesitation) and then it continues forward, I only expierence this when I’m going from reverse to forward. I come to a complete stop and do not shift to drive when moving backwards still. ?

I recently bought a (Gen 3) LQ4. I'm trying to swap this into an (Gen 4) 07' Silverado which uses 58x Reluctor, 4x Cam Gear, Front Timing Cover/Crank Sensor, and 2 Knock Sensors located in the sides of the block. I have a (Gen 4) Truck, So the timing cover/ crank sensor/ knock sensors can be used. I also have a (Gen 4) ECM/Harness. I know I need to get 58x Reluctor Gear put on & get a 4x cam gear already My questions are as follows: 1. Can I put a 4x Cam Gear on a (Gen 3 Cam) ? or do I need to get a (Gen 4 Cam) for the (Gen 4 Cam Gear) to work ? 2. Can I use the (Gen 4 Knock sensors) on the side of the (Gen 3 LQ4) ? Just drill/tap & mount them ? 3. If I keep the (Gen 4 Fuel Setup) could I just install that on the (Gen 3 LQ4) ? Any help or advice will be appreciated. I'll be documenting everything so others will have better knowledge when putting a Gen 3 Block into a Gen 4 Vehicle. Thanks guys !

Hey guys, I just bought an LQ4/6.0 out of a 2006 Denali XL Complete Long Block Engine Harness /w ECU Accessories The swap will be going into a 2007 Reg Cab Silverado. Truck came factory with the 4.8L Vortec. My questions go as follows. 1. Would the swap work easier since I have the ECU/ECM that came with it ? 2. 06' Below uses 24x Crank Sens... 07+ 58x Crank Sens... Could it work since i have the ECU/Harness ? 3. Would the truck still start up/drive without unlocking the ECU ? 4. What other things should i be worried about ? 5. What things should I get for the swap if needed ? I will be using a JEGS adapter/4.8 Flexplate to mount the 4l60e to it "4l80 will be put in later"

It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.

Hey y’all! I sold my first gen tundra to move to a crew cab Silverado. I know to stay away from the 2017 models. I’ve settled on a 2018 LTZ, what are the thoughts on the 8 speed? I won’t do much towing with it. Maybe a 5000 pound boat occasionally. 80% city driving and am planning to throw a lift and some 35’s on it. I’ve heard very mixed things so curious you guys thoughts. Thanks so much!

Hey y’all! I sold my first gen tundra to move to a crew cab Silverado. I know to stay away from the 2017 models. I’ve settled on a 2018 LTZ, what are the thoughts on the 8 speed? I won’t do much towing with it. Maybe a 5000 pound boat occasionally. 80% city driving and am planning to throw a lift and some 35’s on it. I’ve heard very mixed things so curious you guys thoughts. Thanks so much!

Like new, Pulsar LT for sale, bought direct from manufacturer. Box is included as well, just can't upload a pic of it for some reason. Had this installed on my 2021 Chevrolet Silverado, took this off when I traded it in. Works great, ~10 months of ownership. Looking for $400, shipping included, within USA. Venmo/Paypal/Zelle preferred.

What suggestions or advice is available for buying a GMC | Chevy truck? What should I watch out for -- the GOOD and BAD? I want to come back to the GMC | Chevy family. For over 20 years, we owned a 98 GMC Suburban, putting over 230k miles on it myself, and I LOVED that truck. Other than typical wear and tear -- I never had any problems or issues with my Suburban. I am looking at 2016-2022 -- GMC | Chevy 1500 | 2500 series, all trims (4x4), except the base models. My budget is around $35k plus'ish; yes, I understand my budget limits what I can get. I am a USAF retired veteran living off a fixed income. Yes, we tow hitch pull RVs and various trailers, but not as often as before. What are the GOOD, BAD, and UGLY these days on the GMC | Chevy trucks? Is the additional price for either diesel and/or 2500 worth it? SHORT STORY: so, a few years ago, I bought a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4 EcoDiesel 6cyl w/turbo Lonestar -- well, I have been disappointed with Chrysler | Fiat (FCA). They lied about the EcoDiesel, and after forced recall ECM updates, they sucked all performance and mpg from the truck. Buying a newish GMC | Chevy, I do not want to fall into what happened with my 2015 Ram. When I had my suburban, I never had so many recalls, been lied to, and never had poor performance. Thanks for any suggestions that you will provide -- Gary (ExFalconFxr)

A few weeks ago my Left Rear Turn Indicator Failure light came on and my taillight got really dim. Then a few days ago my right tail light did the same thing. The right tail light is not as dim but does the same rapid blinking and both failures come up on the dashboard. Any suggestions of things to test out? I have not been able to find any youtube videos or forums that are very recent. Thank you.

I'm about to install the Chevy Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade on our Silverado. Has anyone else installed this kit? Anyone thinking about it? At first glance, it seems pretty straightforward. After reading the manual, however, I'm realizing I need to take the front wheel bearings off to access the dust shield. Other than that, it seems to be a easy rotor/caliper replacement. Big thanks to @RyanbabZ71 for recommending a great brake bleeding tool! The front set is a true six-piston caliper. The rear calipers are stock calipers painted red to match the fronts. The size increase on the front rotors is significant. I'm gathering the tools I'll need right now. Hopefully I can tear into it next week. I expect the entire process to take me at least a whole day and maybe two days depending on how it goes. Why so long? I'll be photographing and taking video of the entire process. Can't wait to share that with you all. Check back in this thread for progress updates.

Part: GM 13525431, Receptacle Assembly, Multi Media *Jet Black Just posting a thread on here if someone who has a 2019 Silverado with the one USB type B port, you can easily upgrade to a module that has a USB-C, USB-B, and an SD card port very quickly and easily in under 5 minutes. I bought mine from eBay and it ran me $27.19 plus shipping. I bought a trim removal kit on Amazon and used the one circled to pry it from the bottom and when the bottom popped out a bit, I pried it from the left side and it just popped out very quickly. After that, just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. FYI, I also bought the module that just has just the USB-C and USB-B ports (without the SD card port) and I don't believe that one would work since it needs an extra cable to be plugged into and I was searching around and didn't find one -- you probably need a different harness for that one. What I've noticed so far is that Apple CarPlay will pickup my iPhone a bit faster, skip through the songs a bit faster, and it charges my phone a bit faster, as well. I haven't tried the SD card functionality yet but I can hope that it may be a necessary requirement for people that have IOR radios to upgrade to the IOS ones with navigation.

I recently purchased a 2013 Silverado 1500 LTZ 5.3 crew cab and am averaging 13.6mpg. I understand it's a truck, but I figured it wouldnt be that terrible. I use cruise control and coast as much as possible, but still have the poor mileage. It has 117,000 miles on it. I have 33x12R20LT Trac Grip M/T Thunderer tires and XD series wheels. I feel like I should be getting better gas mileage than this. Suggestions?

This diode installation allows all of the lights to remain on simultaneously when the high beams are activated on GM vehicles. The diode is super easy to install, you need $2 and 10 minutes. 9 of those minutes will be spent congratulating yourself.After diode placement your lights will function as follows: In auto mode- whenever your lights come on automatically the fogs will be on also. Low Beams & Fogs- Only Low Beams & Fogs will be on High Beams- Low Beams, Fog Lights, & High Beams will all be on (normally by default) The vehicle turns off the fogs when in high beam mode, but this diode solves that. MAKE SURE THE SIDE OF THE DIODE WITHOUT THE STRIPE IS IN THE 10 PIN. The diode allows electricity to travel in only one direction.

Hey there everyone. I'm having issues with my 2017 chevy silverado 1500. On Tuesday afternoon I parked my truck at home. And later that evening I walked up to my truck, since I was planning to grab some dinner. However, when I tried unlocking it with my fob, nothing happened. I found it strange, since that had never happened before. (I've had this used truck for 6months) and never has that happened before. So I had to insert my key to open it, and I tried to turn it on, and again nothing. Engine didn't turn on, no lights on, no dim. Nothing. We figured maybe just the battery, so we had to jump cables, which with that it turned on. We drove over to our local auto advance to purchase a new battery, since the other one was old (used truck) and when I go to shut off my truck I turn the key, and take it out. And the engine stayed on. We found it super strange. Only way to turn it off was disconnecting the battery. We purchased a new one, and after it was hooked the same issues. It runs fine, but after taking out the key engine stays on. I've had diagnostics ran on it and Noone can find the solution. I believe it may be a malfunction with the remote start. Because when the truck is on (without the key) it's only the engine. Meaning it's not drivable. I can't drive it off, unless I insert the key. I would appreciate any help I can get. Thanks in advance

If anyone has any experience with my situation please feel free to comment with any tips or your own experiences. I have 3" front 2" rear level on my 2018 silverado. I left everything else stock in the suspension and after about 30k miles I now have completely blown my CV joints. I will be replacing the CV axels, UCA's (recommendations?), and installing a differential drop kit this weekend. Hopefully this helps relieve the angles of the ball joints and CV axel. I've never done a diff drop before so wish me luck. Hopefully it's not too terrible of an install.

Hey all, I have a 2019 trail boss with an awful noise anytime the rest suspension is used (all the time because you know...) I took it into the dealer and they "fixed" it with some grease.. but that has negative side effects, also it already wore off. So yeah. I just don't understand how this is even a thing. My 2013 didn't make any noises like this. My 2019 sounds like a 20 year old rust bucket. I went on Twitter, but now I question their ability to do anything. They are just going to tell the dealer to regrease it. Anybody else have this issue?

Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher - GM-Trucks.com October 10th, 2019 Chevrolet is giving the not so subtle hint that the rumored Silverado ZRX model is about to become reality. Today, the brand announced that a "Silverado Race Truck" would compete in this weekend's Laughlin Desert Classic alongside the Hall Racing Colorado ZR2. Interestingly, the Silverado will compete in the Desert's 1200 Stock Class, which limits changes to suspension, under body, and race-safety equipment. What does that mean? This truck is not only ready to race, it's close to production too. The "Silverado Race Truck" is outfitted with a number of aftermarket goodies that look like they were ripped right off a Colorado ZR2. Starting as an LT Trail Boss with the 6.2L V8, the Silverado Race Truck is outfitted with a long travel suspension, front and rear jounce shocks and Multimatic DSSV dampers. In short... the modifications that Chevy applies to the Colorado for the ZR2 model. Why didn't Chevy just come out and call this the ZRX Race Truck? We're not sure, but there's no doubt this is a low flying announcement made to pave the way towards an eventual Silverado model that emulates the ZR2's success in a larger package. Whether that's enough to take on the Ford Raptor is too early to determine. Stay tuned for updates on the "Silverado Race Truck" and future Silverado ZRX.

Zane & Josh, The Merva Brothers Co-Founders, GM-Trucks.com October 2018 Pickup utility racks have been an option for anyone looking to haul around longer objects for decades. They've gotten the job done when stuff like ladders, wood, and canoes needed moved from one place to another. With the options of bed sizes shrinking over the past few years, a stylish and functional utility rack can add, well , a lot of utility to your full size or midsize truck. Unfortunately, not many racks look as good as they function and take away from the aesthetics of our vehicle. So, when we found a new aluminum utility rack that looked as professional as our truck, we wanted to try it out. In an effort to find a stylish utility rack we're reviewing the Agri-Cover ADARAC Aluminum Series. What is it? Agri-Cover ADARAC Aluminum Series Model Number 4001238 For 2007-2013 Silverado/Sierra 1500 with 6' 6" bed MSRP: $491.30 / $578 MSRP (as of October 2018) Manufacturer Website: https://www.agricover.com/truck-bed-racks/ Installation Time: 1-hour Installation Difficulty: Easy with basic mechanical skills and a helping hand Main Features Rust resistant aluminum construction No drill installation Compact and narrow upright designs Four load dividers included Compatable with Access-Cover bed covers What We Like Modern and stylish brushed aluminum design Thick stamped upright supports are super staunch Modular attachment points and accessories Uprights can be removed or installed with one person 500-lb capacity What We Don’t Like Stamped parts have sharp edges out of the box Can't re-position uprights without tools Rack as a whole can restrict what you put in the bed unless removed Tie-down holes are only barely bigger than a standard hook ADARAC Aluminum Series Unboxing The ADARAC came securely shipped in a long and moderately heavy box. One person can move the packaging around but two would be easier. We started out by unpacking our rack, laying out all of the parts and reading the manual. We found hardware packaging was excellent with no missing parts. The manual was clear and easy to understand. Nothing was scratched or damaged. The stamped aluminum uprights came covered in a protective sheeting/fabric and looking as if they were straight out of the forming machine. We almost cut ourselves on the uprights because no clean up work had been done to remove burrs or sharp edges. A smooth edge would have been a lot better and easier to handle. Once everything was organized and we had familiarized ourselves with the installation manual, we started to get to work. ADARAC Aluminum Series Installation We installed this rack at the same time as our Access-Cover Lorado Roll Up Cover. If you're doing something similar, don't make the same mistake we did and try to install the rack before the cover. It won't work, as the ADARAC blocks the bed-stake holes when installed. The same stake holes you need access to for installing the Lorado, so install your bed cover first. Speaking of...check our our full review of the Access-Cover Lorado here After getting ahead of ourselves, we detoured and installed our cover before coming back to the ADARAC. The first step was to lay down the side rails and secure them to the stake pockets on the bed using compression style fittings. The attachment method is slick, requiring no drilling or cutting. It's also fully reversible and doesn't damage your bed. Best of all, the rails are never going to move. The first step is to drop the compression plates into the stake holds and tighten down the rails with two clamps/bolts per rail. Then we measured the distance between the installed rails on the bed and set the uprights at the same distance on the floor. We used some old shop towels to prevent scratching the pretty aluminum. Next, we attached the crossbars at the measured width making sure to center everything up. We then tightened the assembled front and back racks on the ground before lifting them up to the truck bed. A few bolts and adjustments later... our racks are on the truck. The best part about aluminum racks is that the front and rear sections are light enough for one person to install or remove them without help. The rear upright mounting bolts are in a tight space when installed with a bed cover and we couldn't use a socket wrench to tighten them down. And before we knew it, our Sierra had a new utility rack and bed cover. Total installation time took right around one hour and was easy enough to do with one person but would be quicker with two. ADARAC Aluminum Series Final Thoughts An entire summer has gone by since we first installed our ADARAC Aluminum Series Utility Rack and we've been extremely glad we've had it as a tool on our GMC. We've used the ADARAC to help build a new bathroom, take our canoe to the local lake for a relaxing afternoon, and moved our ladder around to help with projects at home and work. The ADARAC has conquered every task we've thrown at it. It's never bent, felt flimsy, or failed to hold our cargo firmly in place. Basically... exactly what you want from a utility rack. The brushed aluminum finish and sleek stamped uprights also look good too. If the $500 price tag is too much, Agri-Cover offers the standard version of the ADARAC which is constructed with steel instead but uses the same basic design. Or, if you need a little wider load, the ADARAC Aluminum Pro Series is designed for larger objects and capacities. If you're in the market for a good looking, well functioning and indestructible utility rack for your truck, we recommend you look at the Agri-Cover ADARAC Utility Rack. Editor's Note: This product was provided at no cost for the purposes of a review. We only publish our honest opinions and give no consideration for the gratis product. ADARAC Aluminum Series Installation Gallery

Hey all, I'm new to this forum so if I'm not in the correct section or have done something in the wrong, just point me in the right direction. I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 and I've seen a few topics on here regarding a front end swap between the 14-15 body style and the 16-19 body style but none have really helped that much. I was hoping to get a new topic going for people wanting to do this in the future that contained more helpful information on the whole process. Now, I have done some research to see what would need to be done, and I've found that it in fact IS possible HOWEVER, if you want to do this, you have to replace the whole front end including bumper, grille, headlights, and hood. You can't just do it piece by piece because the lines wont match up. For those who have done this, is my though process correct and is it pretty much a seamless transition when swapping everything out? Meaning all bolt holes, etc. line up when switching a 14-15 front end with a 16-19 front end? If anyone has done this swap, please share your process!

Got my full console from Ebay used in like new condition. I did alot of research to figure out how to wire it so all the functions would work. I.e. wireless phone charger and usb/ cigarette liter ports for the rear passenger. I have a currently have a 22 2.7l Custom that doesn't have the required connection under the front passenger seat. After hours of looking at schematics and testing wires, I managed to hard wire my center console to the fuse box on the passenger side. Wire on the CC harness to Fuse box Both Red/white to F5 (Battery positive) Violet to F20 (Accessory on) Violet/yellow to F23 (Accessory on) BOTH Black to Ground below the Fuse box. The only section I wasn't able to get working yet is the USB in the middle of the console (the one with the map SD card). This one I believe needs to be connected to the radio that has the built in navigation. (once I get one I'll update this post.

As the title says, post your long travel set up with the who and why! I'm tired of not being able to find long travel builds to copy off of. Custom or bolt on, doesn't matter. Post pictures of the before and after glass sides if you got them. If a thread like this already exists please share below or if you have a thread for your build. Hopefully this gets some serious attention for the full size community, the Toyotas get all the long travel attention.