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Found 87 results

  1. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  2. Well, here it is: N182202780 - Special Coverage Adjustment - Brake Assist Decreased Due to Vacuum Loss GLOBAL SAFETY FIELD INVESTIGATIONS DCS5013 URGENT - DISTRIBUTE IMMEDIATELY Date: April 10, 2019 Subject: N182202780 - Special Coverage Brake Assist Decreased due to Vacuum Loss Models: 2014 – 2017 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2014 – 2017 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe 2014 – 2017 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL To: All General Motors Dealers General Motors is releasing Special Coverage N182202780 today. The total number of U.S. vehicles involved is approximately 3,357,584. Please see the attached bulletin for details. This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 6 years or 72,000 miles (116,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), must be submitted to the Service Contract provider. Vehicle owners or lessees who paid for repairs referenced in this Special Coverage (“Customers”) are eligible for reimbursement of their reasonable and customary expenses in accordance with the procedures specified below.
  3. Hey folks, I’m pretty new to the forum, so please excuse this if it’s already been mentioned. I’m a newish driver and new truck owner, my Silverado is actually my first car. My grandfather used to be a mechanic so he’s been teaching me things here and there, but he’s stumped on this and even after all the reading I’ve done, so am I. Since the day I bought my truck, about 6 months ago to be exact, I’ve felt this bounce within my brake pedal when stopping, typically from 30MPH and up. At times it can be so bad it will throw me forward. My steering wheel doesn’t shake, nor do I feel any stuttering anywhere other than my brake pedal. It doesn’t happen all the time, and at times it’s MUCH worse than others. I do notice it is more likely to happen if my tires are hot or it’s extremely humid outside. I don’t think my rotors are warped nor do I think my brake pads are thin as I can stop completely smooth at times. I tested it by going from 56mph and quickly hard braking while on pavement and coceana, and I didn’t have a problem (because I had only been driving 10 minutes and my tires were still cold I assume). I’m pretty stumped, hopefully one of you guys will know? Thanks in advance. Edit: truck is a 2015 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71 V8 5.3L with 149k miles and is a Canadian model
  4. I just purchased a 2019 Silverado 1500 Custom Crew Cab 2 weeks ago. They towed it back to the dealer this morning. I tried to drive it to work yesterday and the parking brake would not release. A tow driver came out yesterday, and he got it to release (while I was at work using another car). then I received two e-mails from On Star. One said a problem was detected with the Stabilitrack Stability Traction System. The second said a problem was detected with the anti-lock brake system, and I needed to get the truck serviced within 7 days. Since I didn't feel safe driving it there, I called GM's Roadside Assistance and had it towed back to the dealer today. According to the tow truck driver, the 2019 Silverado has a new electronic brake system they (GM) haven't used before. He said he's been towing a LOT of cars and trucks lately that have this new electronic brake system. I went to the dealership to get a loaner truck, and I asked them about the new system. The advisor there confirmed that there is a new brake system on the 2019 trucks, and they are having issues with it. (That would have been good to know before I bought it 2 weeks ago!) He told me they have parts and they have software upgrades to fix it, but it's going to be at least two days before he can even get it in the shop. We're a GM family and we've owned lots of brand new GM cars, but this is our first pickup truck. Has anyone else had this same issue? If so, were they able to resolve it successfully? I don't want to be in and out of the dealership every other week getting stuff fixed now. This is really disheartening.
  5. I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
  6. Hey folks, first time posting here and maybe it’s a common thing. I’ve searched google and YouTube for days, replaced parts, and done the troubleshooting I know to do. So here it is, bear in mind, im no auto mechanic. I’m a jet mechanic/toolmaker. Lol my front pass brake locked up Friday, and the abs/parking brake light has been on since the dealer I got the truck from replaced the parking brake cable. I don’t hear a roaring, so I don’t feel like it’s a hub, but I do have some bouncing on the front end which leads me to think it may be an axel, which I still have to get looked at. parking brake and abs lights come on after a few seconds of driving, I hear brakes grinding, and I just replaced both front rotors, pads, and passenger caliper and abs sensor after it locked up; since it melted the abs sensor cable. brakes are bled properly and working, but they aren’t fully releasing. I’ve checked fluid, it’s not overfilled. Driver hub was previously replaced but not passenger for some reason. I considered ordering a hub for the passenger side just for that. Rotors are 305mm and the pads I installed are ceramic from brake best. Yes, the rotors get hot after a short drive, like too hot to touch. I’d rather not have these things lock up on me again. The only thing left I know to check are the piston in the master cylinder, or the passenger hub. Any ideas? If I’ve missed good reference material or prior posts please feel free to comment with a link and a nice “check here dumbass.” Lol thanks in advance.
  7. Anyone have a check engine light show up then go away and come back? Code uo129 lost communication with brake control module, UO101 lost communication with transmission Control Module. Went to bed with no check engine light, woke up in the morning for work and noticed the truck would not remote start. When I go in to head to work noticed check engine light. After work ran codes. Shortly after getting codes and using google to research check engine light was gone. Went for a drive never came back on. Woke up this morning it was on again. Can anybody relate?
  8. I have recently noticed when I apply my brakes on my 2500 HD my truck pulls to the left and steering wheel shutters. The brakes should be good, don't have that many miles on them. It happens when I hit the brakes quick. If I gradually put them on it doesn't do it. Any ideas??
  9. Does anyone have the Brembo 6-piston brake calipers installed before or after the fact? My previous vehicle had factory Brembo brakes and it was awesome. It had great bite with no fuss. Anytime i get in a vehicle without Brembo brakes, I notice the difference. The default brakes on this truck sometimes feel inadequate to me. If the Brembo package wasn't so expensive, i would probably go for it.
  10. I'm sure this topic has been overplayed, but I have looked through many of the topics and still haven't had my question answered, so here goes. I have a 2014 CC Silverado with a Procharged 5.3 that has an Air Lift bag system with an onboard compressor. Clearly I have some use for this truck outside of mere daily driving. In fact, I tow a small fifth wheel on Florida's relatively flat roads (fully loaded @ 9k and 1,300 pin weight) about 7-8 times per year for local camping trips (less than 200 mi.). I have no complaints with the truck's performance in any way, but it is time to look at changing the brakes, and I would like to upgrade to a reasonably priced high-quality brake system geared towards a towing application. I have tentatively settled on a PowerStop Z36 4 wheel system and wonder if anyone has any experience with them who tows a "heavy" load such as I do. I appreciate any feedback, David
  11. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  12. Hoping to get a little insight on a brake problem. I'm in need of a brake proportioning valve but, it's turning out to be a tad difficult finding the correct one. My 69 C10 is stock, no ones has messed with the brakes but for some reason I can't find the correct proportioning valve. I've purchased two from Classic Industries and both of them turned out to be the wrong one. They sent 5 port proportioning valves both times but I only have a 4 port... 2 inlet, 2 outlet factory 4 wheel drum. Is this such a difficult problem? Seems odd. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  13. My brakes are squealing, and have been for a while. I took my truck in and was told there is some uneven spots on the rotors but it doesnt affect function, it's just annoying. Well, I'm tired of it. I'm at 45k and its probably close enough. So as per my lurking, I think I want to go with the police package brakes. Anyone who has these, will they affect braking in the cold/snow/wet or while towing? I was looking at this thread below and someone linked a photo of the parts from rockauto. It shows a couple different parts for the front pads and rotors and rear pads and rotors- do I want bendix, raybestos, or acdelco when I have an option? Are the prices for the rotors per rotor (vs per pair)? This is the first time I've done brakes. Any tips? I have a 2015 Silverado ltz z71 4wd. Thanks!
  14. I HAVE A '16 SILVERADO 1500 5.3 W/ ABOUT 49K MILES. WHILE I WAS PARALLEL PARKING, AFTER THE 2ND PUMP, I REALIZED THE TRUCK WASNT STOPPING. I HAD TO USE BOTH LEGS TO MAKE IT STOP BEFORE HITTING THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. WHILE DOING THAT I FELT THE ABS KICKING IN. MY BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS ARE FINE. INSTALLED HIGH PERFORMEANCE ROTORS AND PADS LIKE ABOUT 10-15K MILES AGO. BRAKE FLUID IS FINE. I DO HEAR AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE ENGINE AREA AT ALL TIMES. KINDA LIKE A BAD PULLEY BEARING OR SOMETHING. NOTICED IT THE DAY THE TRUCK STARTED ACTING UP. WHILE DRIVING THE BRKAES WORKING FINE IT ONLY OCCCURES WHEN I AM PARKING AND AFTER LIKE THE 2ND PUMP I HAVE NO BRAKES. ALSO IF I TAKE IT TO THE DEALER, DOES IT FALL UNDER THE POWERTRAIN WARRENTY OR BASIC?
  15. Morning y'all, So I've been reading the forums regarding replacing/upgrading the brake and the time has come for me to replace the brakes on my 2016 Sierra and I wanted to see which route people went with. I've heard about people upgrading to the "police" brakes offered on the PPV. Comments? Thanks!!
  16. 2005 Duramax Diesel (LLY with only 46,000 miles) Chevrolet Kodiak C5500 medium duty 35' Super C Gulfstream Enduramax Toyhauler RV Just yesterday when I parked it and turned it off the (or what I am assuming is my) airbrake system started cycling on and off. I was hearing the pump cycle on for 90 seconds every 3 minutes just like clock work (off for 3 minutes and then on for 90 seconds). I ended up disconnecting the battery to stop the cycling until I can get it resolved. I am now trying to get a mobile Technician to visit the RV site to diagnose it but am not having much luck in spite of calling the local large truck service centers (GM Medium Duty Dealer, Pilot J, Camping World, North Trail RV etc.). I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on what the problem may be. On the surface I am wondering if there is a sensor that may have calved. Thank You Paul P.S. VIN: 1GBE5U1275F504097
  17. Just had this happen. Going under 15mph, applying the brake causes the pedal to become stiff and lock up and not work. This has caused me to almost hit someone twice. Sounds to me like brake booster. Anyone else having/had this problem???
  18. Alright, so I have a 2007.5 Chevy Silverado 5.3 4x4 and the abs has been acting up since I got my cam and lifters swapped. I read up on it and already changed my hubs and wheel speed sensors all around and the problem is still there. It's only driving slow and applying the pedal that it happens.
  19. I have about 6000 ( i travel a lot and despise airplane seats ) miles on my 2019 GMC SEIRRA DENALI 5.3 ( I love chrome lol ) . I've been experiencing a very troubling issue been to the dealership once already and had a hard time convincing them that something was wrong with the truck .Every time i drive for long periods of time or idle for 10+ mins when i shift from park to drive i cannot go faster than 5 mph without the rear brakes locking up. I do not know if this is some kind of limp mode or what . Contacted GM they work slower than molasses , idk what to do
  20. My brakes seem like they are weak nothing seems to be leaking, I step on them it gets soft with a little vibration, and my temp gauge is not working in my cluster I changed the step motors 3 times still not workin,
  21. I changed the brakes and rotors out on my 14 Silverado crew cab about a month ago go to the brakes squeaking non stop, and a visible gouge on the driver side rotor. The pads still had about 60% on them but changed them out anyway, here I am a month later and the same damn squeaking is back, there is no visible sign of anything dragging the rotor but holy hell is it annoying. Anyone had this issue?
  22. I have a 99 Silverado 4x4 and I there have been a couple times when I'm making a tight turn like into a parking spot that it feels like I have no brakes. I brought it into my old guy who fixes things for me that I can't and he said the brakes seem to function fine and there are no codes showing up so he thinks its probably a sensor not picking things up properly due to a wheel bearing starting to get loose. He was reluctant to just start replacing things not being sure exactly which wheel was the issue (which a I appreciated) and suggested I pull the ABS fuse and put it back in every few months until the issue got to the point where it would trigger a code. I live in Minnesota so the ABS is a nice feature and I hate having warning lights on the dash. This guy is usually really good with these older vehicles, but I would like to see what others think could be wrong or give me ideas on how to diagnose. Thanks
  23. I have an insight trailer brake controller for sale $100.00 firm with 2014 plug n play wire i purchased this and put it in but never used it don't have trailer with brakes and don't like pulling trailer anyway purchased from etrailer
  24. Just curious if anyone is running the Power Stop Z36 kit. I had the pads on my Ram and loved them. The rotors are awful on this truck (have been warped since about 45,000 miles). The pads could probably go another 15,000 or so but since I am taking it apart for 50 bucks I don't want to take it apart again. These rotors seem to be pretty high quality in terms of metal/coating/machining. I hope they can at least make it 50,000 before warping. OEM used to be far superior in terms of run out/warping compared to parts store stuff these days but apparently the new "dura life" rotor isn't too hot. I am pretty easy on brakes considering pad life would be around 75,000 on a truck that tows frequently. I always try to pop the truck in neutral at lights so I am not putting pressure on the rotors when they are hot sitting still. The Z36 pads on my Ram were much more aggressive cold or hot and didn't seem to lose much power on long aggressive stops when towing. I will report back after the install and after a few months with them on. Likely won't be doing to much distance towing until spring though.
  25. Good day to all! Newbie here and looking to fix a rather disturbing problem. Car is a 2013 Silverado; Everytime I hit the brakes a bit too hard there's a high pitched squeal that shoots out of the (I'm guessing) master cylinder area. The truck has 60,000 miles on the clock and only ever been serviced at the dealership. Took it in last week for a service and the said they need to replace the master cylinder and brake booster to fix the squealing noise. Just curious if this is a common problem on these trucks? Is there a solution other than outright replacement of the parts? I can work my way around a car so DIY isn't a problem. Thankyou for reading!
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