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Found 80 results

  1. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  2. Well, here it is: N182202780 - Special Coverage Adjustment - Brake Assist Decreased Due to Vacuum Loss GLOBAL SAFETY FIELD INVESTIGATIONS DCS5013 URGENT - DISTRIBUTE IMMEDIATELY Date: April 10, 2019 Subject: N182202780 - Special Coverage Brake Assist Decreased due to Vacuum Loss Models: 2014 – 2017 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV 2014 – 2017 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe 2014 – 2017 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL To: All General Motors Dealers General Motors is releasing Special Coverage N182202780 today. The total number of U.S. vehicles involved is approximately 3,357,584. Please see the attached bulletin for details. This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 6 years or 72,000 miles (116,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), must be submitted to the Service Contract provider. Vehicle owners or lessees who paid for repairs referenced in this Special Coverage (“Customers”) are eligible for reimbursement of their reasonable and customary expenses in accordance with the procedures specified below.
  3. Hoping to get a little insight on a brake problem. I'm in need of a brake proportioning valve but, it's turning out to be a tad difficult finding the correct one. My 69 C10 is stock, no ones has messed with the brakes but for some reason I can't find the correct proportioning valve. I've purchased two from Classic Industries and both of them turned out to be the wrong one. They sent 5 port proportioning valves both times but I only have a 4 port... 2 inlet, 2 outlet factory 4 wheel drum. Is this such a difficult problem? Seems odd. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  4. My brakes are squealing, and have been for a while. I took my truck in and was told there is some uneven spots on the rotors but it doesnt affect function, it's just annoying. Well, I'm tired of it. I'm at 45k and its probably close enough. So as per my lurking, I think I want to go with the police package brakes. Anyone who has these, will they affect braking in the cold/snow/wet or while towing? I was looking at this thread below and someone linked a photo of the parts from rockauto. It shows a couple different parts for the front pads and rotors and rear pads and rotors- do I want bendix, raybestos, or acdelco when I have an option? Are the prices for the rotors per rotor (vs per pair)? This is the first time I've done brakes. Any tips? I have a 2015 Silverado ltz z71 4wd. Thanks!
  5. I HAVE A '16 SILVERADO 1500 5.3 W/ ABOUT 49K MILES. WHILE I WAS PARALLEL PARKING, AFTER THE 2ND PUMP, I REALIZED THE TRUCK WASNT STOPPING. I HAD TO USE BOTH LEGS TO MAKE IT STOP BEFORE HITTING THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. WHILE DOING THAT I FELT THE ABS KICKING IN. MY BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS ARE FINE. INSTALLED HIGH PERFORMEANCE ROTORS AND PADS LIKE ABOUT 10-15K MILES AGO. BRAKE FLUID IS FINE. I DO HEAR AN ABNORMAL NOISE COMING FROM THE ENGINE AREA AT ALL TIMES. KINDA LIKE A BAD PULLEY BEARING OR SOMETHING. NOTICED IT THE DAY THE TRUCK STARTED ACTING UP. WHILE DRIVING THE BRKAES WORKING FINE IT ONLY OCCCURES WHEN I AM PARKING AND AFTER LIKE THE 2ND PUMP I HAVE NO BRAKES. ALSO IF I TAKE IT TO THE DEALER, DOES IT FALL UNDER THE POWERTRAIN WARRENTY OR BASIC?
  6. Morning y'all, So I've been reading the forums regarding replacing/upgrading the brake and the time has come for me to replace the brakes on my 2016 Sierra and I wanted to see which route people went with. I've heard about people upgrading to the "police" brakes offered on the PPV. Comments? Thanks!!
  7. 2005 Duramax Diesel (LLY with only 46,000 miles) Chevrolet Kodiak C5500 medium duty 35' Super C Gulfstream Enduramax Toyhauler RV Just yesterday when I parked it and turned it off the (or what I am assuming is my) airbrake system started cycling on and off. I was hearing the pump cycle on for 90 seconds every 3 minutes just like clock work (off for 3 minutes and then on for 90 seconds). I ended up disconnecting the battery to stop the cycling until I can get it resolved. I am now trying to get a mobile Technician to visit the RV site to diagnose it but am not having much luck in spite of calling the local large truck service centers (GM Medium Duty Dealer, Pilot J, Camping World, North Trail RV etc.). I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on what the problem may be. On the surface I am wondering if there is a sensor that may have calved. Thank You Paul P.S. VIN: 1GBE5U1275F504097
  8. Anyone have a check engine light show up then go away and come back? Code uo129 lost communication with brake control module, UO101 lost communication with transmission Control Module. Went to bed with no check engine light, woke up in the morning for work and noticed the truck would not remote start. When I go in to head to work noticed check engine light. After work ran codes. Shortly after getting codes and using google to research check engine light was gone. Went for a drive never came back on. Woke up this morning it was on again. Can anybody relate?
  9. Just had this happen. Going under 15mph, applying the brake causes the pedal to become stiff and lock up and not work. This has caused me to almost hit someone twice. Sounds to me like brake booster. Anyone else having/had this problem???
  10. Alright, so I have a 2007.5 Chevy Silverado 5.3 4x4 and the abs has been acting up since I got my cam and lifters swapped. I read up on it and already changed my hubs and wheel speed sensors all around and the problem is still there. It's only driving slow and applying the pedal that it happens.
  11. I have about 6000 ( i travel a lot and despise airplane seats ) miles on my 2019 GMC SEIRRA DENALI 5.3 ( I love chrome lol ) . I've been experiencing a very troubling issue been to the dealership once already and had a hard time convincing them that something was wrong with the truck .Every time i drive for long periods of time or idle for 10+ mins when i shift from park to drive i cannot go faster than 5 mph without the rear brakes locking up. I do not know if this is some kind of limp mode or what . Contacted GM they work slower than molasses , idk what to do
  12. My brakes seem like they are weak nothing seems to be leaking, I step on them it gets soft with a little vibration, and my temp gauge is not working in my cluster I changed the step motors 3 times still not workin,
  13. I changed the brakes and rotors out on my 14 Silverado crew cab about a month ago go to the brakes squeaking non stop, and a visible gouge on the driver side rotor. The pads still had about 60% on them but changed them out anyway, here I am a month later and the same damn squeaking is back, there is no visible sign of anything dragging the rotor but holy hell is it annoying. Anyone had this issue?
  14. Brake Issue

    I have a 99 Silverado 4x4 and I there have been a couple times when I'm making a tight turn like into a parking spot that it feels like I have no brakes. I brought it into my old guy who fixes things for me that I can't and he said the brakes seem to function fine and there are no codes showing up so he thinks its probably a sensor not picking things up properly due to a wheel bearing starting to get loose. He was reluctant to just start replacing things not being sure exactly which wheel was the issue (which a I appreciated) and suggested I pull the ABS fuse and put it back in every few months until the issue got to the point where it would trigger a code. I live in Minnesota so the ABS is a nice feature and I hate having warning lights on the dash. This guy is usually really good with these older vehicles, but I would like to see what others think could be wrong or give me ideas on how to diagnose. Thanks
  15. I have an insight trailer brake controller for sale $100.00 firm with 2014 plug n play wire i purchased this and put it in but never used it don't have trailer with brakes and don't like pulling trailer anyway purchased from etrailer
  16. Just curious if anyone is running the Power Stop Z36 kit. I had the pads on my Ram and loved them. The rotors are awful on this truck (have been warped since about 45,000 miles). The pads could probably go another 15,000 or so but since I am taking it apart for 50 bucks I don't want to take it apart again. These rotors seem to be pretty high quality in terms of metal/coating/machining. I hope they can at least make it 50,000 before warping. OEM used to be far superior in terms of run out/warping compared to parts store stuff these days but apparently the new "dura life" rotor isn't too hot. I am pretty easy on brakes considering pad life would be around 75,000 on a truck that tows frequently. I always try to pop the truck in neutral at lights so I am not putting pressure on the rotors when they are hot sitting still. The Z36 pads on my Ram were much more aggressive cold or hot and didn't seem to lose much power on long aggressive stops when towing. I will report back after the install and after a few months with them on. Likely won't be doing to much distance towing until spring though.
  17. Good day to all! Newbie here and looking to fix a rather disturbing problem. Car is a 2013 Silverado; Everytime I hit the brakes a bit too hard there's a high pitched squeal that shoots out of the (I'm guessing) master cylinder area. The truck has 60,000 miles on the clock and only ever been serviced at the dealership. Took it in last week for a service and the said they need to replace the master cylinder and brake booster to fix the squealing noise. Just curious if this is a common problem on these trucks? Is there a solution other than outright replacement of the parts? I can work my way around a car so DIY isn't a problem. Thankyou for reading!
  18. I'm not sure I'm posting in the right area. Forgive me if so. I dont know a whole lot about cars but my boyfriend is having some issues with the back brakes on his Yukon. I believe they are drums. But he looked at them tonight & it seems that a big chunk of one of his brake pads has broken off. He says they keep losing up or something. Like they have a self adjuster thing on it that is supposed to tighten up as the brakes wear down. But it doesn't seem to be adjusting. Just getting looser. Would anyone have any clue why this would be happening? Could it be the wrong size on there?? Auto Zone says either 10 in or 11 in. 11 in was what was on there b4 he changed them, but could that have been wrong? Maybe previous owner had wrong ones on there? Sorry if this is confusing. Any help would be appreciated. It's a 1999 Yukon
  19. I am looking for help. I was towing a light trailer over the weekend and used my trailer assist for heavy traffic. On my way to returning the empty trailer an issue arose. First, I was at a stop light when I proceeded to go I hear a small thud followed by about 3 squeaks and it went away. Not thinking much of it because I thought it was the trailer. Upon heading home I was coming to a stop sign at the bottom of a large hill and then a loud THUD come from the rear end. Pulled over and did an inspection but found nothing. I made an appointment with the Chevy dealership for today. Upon taking it there, I heard three loud bangs about 100 feet apart, also from the rear end area. Chevy dealership said they didnt find anything and to not use trailer assist for light loads. As I was leaving the dealership, I came to another stop sign, this time, I took my foot of the brake and the truck stayed in place while on drive, I am also going down a hill when this happened. I gave it gas and there was another loud pop then a "release" of the truck. I have no clue what the hell is going on here. Seems to shift and stop fine. I'm scared to drive this truck anywhere.
  20. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-13-2018 General Motors is recalling 10 models and about 1 million total vehicles for a reason we have never heard before. The apparent cause of the recall is that the rear brakes may contain trapped hydrogen gas. As any mechanic knows, any trapped gas in a brake line can cause problems, notably a soft pedal as the gas expands and contracts. GM says it knows of no accidents due to the issue. The solution is to bleed the brakes. The affected models includes 2018 and 2019 MY vehicles: GMC Terrain, Buick Lacrosse and Regal, Cadillac XTS and Chevrolet Cruze, Equinox, Volt, Impala, Bolt, and the Chevrolet Malibu. To see if your brakes may contain a hydrogen bubble check it here at GM's VIN lookup.
  21. So in my auto shop class in high school I brought my truck in to do the front pads, I changed the pads, retainers but I pulled the caliper all the way off to clean them. They go back on fine, I gravity bled them and then pressure bled them, they are as hard as rock, start the truck up, no brakes at all we tried using the abs bleeding system still nothing. We tried bleeding them with the truck running and it just went to the floor and no fluid came out and trust me the master cylinder reservoir is at the full line. Thanks, Ed P.S. 2013 Silverado 1500 LT Drum brakes in the rear, We did NOT bleed the rear brakes since we didn’t touch them.
  22. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-19-2018 GM is recalling vehicles including the 2015-2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500, 3500, 1500 Crew Cab Special Service, Tahoe Police Pursuit/Special Service, GMC Sierra 2500, and 3500 vehicles. The reason is that the brake pedal pivot nut may loosen, causing the brake pedal to be loose or inoperative. The consequence of that could make it difficult or impossible for the driver to stop the vehicle by using the brake pedal. In addition, a loose pedal may also interfere with the accelerator pedal. Either condition may increase the risk of a crash. NHTSA says that GM will notify owners, and dealers will add adhesive to the nut and reinstall the nut with increased tightness, free of charge. To verify if your vehicle is part of this recall, you can look it up here at GM's lookup site.
  23. Brakes

    I have been looking around and cant find any info on this. Can i swap the brakes from a 2000 silverado onto my 2005 silverado to clear 16" rims? I know it can be done by grinding, but i dont want to comprimise the safety of it. The 2000 has 16" rims and will clear the rims i want to swap on.
  24. I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job: Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit? Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve? Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body. Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything? Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all of your help!!!
  25. Buddy's got an 93' C2500HD (with the eight bolt rims...), Front Disks and Rear Drums. What I'm hoping to find out what people think is the best stuff to make brake pads & shoes out of. I'm looking at semi-metallic and ceramic brake pads; there's just too many d--- choices. Truck hauls a decent load about three or four times a month, otherwise it's 90% freeway/10% hilly mountain passes and snake trails. If I'm dealing w/ the local NAPA Auto parts store, is the a proven, go-to brake pad/shoe recommendation?
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