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Found 64 results

  1. Hi all new to the forum. Recently I changed the front rotors and pads and rear drums and shoes on my 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4. Problem I’m having is the park brake won’t hold on hills like it did before. I set the rear drums so they lightly drag when turning them by hand and “seated” the pda by driving in reverse and hitting the brakes a few times. I tightened up the park brake cable as I thought it may have stretched. My dad has the same truck and his will hold with one click in reverse on an incline mine will hold but not in reverse on incline just wondering what else to try other than wait for pads to seat better? Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
  2. I am back to GM for my truck. I got a 2017 L5P High Country. I love the truck. I have a couple of gripes. The calipers have surface rust on them. I know it is surface, but I have had a bunch of trucks over the years. Never had rust on them. Not on GMC, Chevy, Toyota or Dodge. Also my brakes squeek at low speeds.. drives me up the wall. I have asked the dealer about it...they said for Chevy it is normal?? It sounds like bad design if that is true. I want to clean up my brake calipers but it is under warranty... Do they cover this ...as it is surface?? Thanks.
  3. I just replaced the front bearings on both sides of my 99' Silverado Z71. But now the brakes are giving me issues. When im going slow is where i have the issues. It feels as if they lock up and all you hear is kinda like a bad power steering noise. the pads are almost new. I dont know what this could be. Can anyone help.
  4. 2014 stock take offs

    2014 GMC Sierra (5.3) is in for various upgrades, so the following items will be available in about a week. NO REASONABLE OFFER REFUSED! -stock exhaust headers -20" OEM chrome rims -stock step bars -stock calipers/rotors/brake lines (50k miles) -stock air intake -1 autocal with unused blackbear tune -1 diablo tuning device (I need to check if tune can be transferred} -Rancho adjustable lift shocks
  5. OK so I've searched like crazy and find similar issues but never the exact same or a fix so here we go I have a 2006 chevy Silverado with rear drum brakes I have baer eradi speed front brakes basically it's just a larger bracket and rotor with stock caliper and also the truck is lowered with Springs and spindle in the front .I noticed my brakes squeaking the other day so I checked the brakes and noticed the drivers pads were almost completely gone where the passengers look new and now that I'm really paying attention I notice that the truck pulls to the left when hard braking ..the temperatures are much hotter on the driver side and more brakedust I thought for sure it would be the after market calipers or lines so I went out and got brand new OEM calipers and lines and bled.. it the 1st couple stops it seemed OK and then I gave it a hard stop and the AbS did its thing and now it's back to the way it was I'm not sure if it was the ABS that did it or just the fact that it was a hard stop and I warmed up the brakes..but back to square one wondering if its the brake pressure modulator valve idk need help
  6. Hey guys, so like the title says, I may be having an issue with my brakes, which is something very dangerous at any time but especially when you are on the highway going 70 MPH as often as I am. I apologize if this has already been covered but I did not see anything on it after searching this forum and google. So here's what happened. Last night I left my home in NOLA to go to school 2 hours away in Lafayette. I was taking it wasy and enjoying the drive. I left around 7-7:15. I dropped my girlfriend off at her house and then got on interstate to go to school. After an hour of driving I got into a large rainstorm. I was driving over one of the overpasses and on the downslope I realized that water had pooled at the bottom as it acts as a hill right there on the interstate, bringing you up then down and then right back up to another overpass, all in less than 300 feet. But when I was going down I tried to engage my brakes and THE PEDAL WOULDN'T MOVE!!!! I started to get worried as I knew that there was traffic not extremely far ahead and didn't want to slam into the back of someone as 70 MPH in a rainstorm and traffic. I kept trying to engage the brakes for the next 20 seconds but it felt like an hour. The brakes acted like they would if you had the engine off and you constantly pressed and released the brake pedal until you could not push it anymore from its normal position. I will say that it seemed like the truck was trying to slow itself down like if the brakes were enabled but I know it was not from me as the pedal was not moving like I said. There was nothing behind the pedal as I made a quick pass under the pedal with my foot throughout all this commotion and looked down for a second to check. I also did a thorough inspection to see if anything was down there that could've prevented me from moving the brake when I got off at the next exit wondering if I had dropped something that could've almost caused serious injuries and possibly death. Nothing was there. I have only had one other issue with this truck and it is just the oil life remaining sensor and that has never bothered me as I don't change the oil based on % life remaining. This issue just has me worried about my safety, the safety of my passengers, and the safety of others if this ever occured again and ended worse than it did. I am planning to bring the truck to the dealership Wednesday as I don't have time to do so before that and I won't be needing it again until Friday. My only thoughts as of right now is that maybe stabilitrack was engaged since I was going around a downhill turn at 70 MPH (it was not a hard turn, but still a slight turn) and the truck could've sensed that one of the wheels was breaking loose or something. But whatever is was, it had me a bit worried during the second hour of the trip. If this is what stabilitrack does when it engages, I don't think I want it much anymore!! I'd MUCH rather be able to manually override any system especially in this case. The truck slowed down some but very little. More than if the brakes were not engaged but not enough to make me believe that they were slowing the truck down at any significant rate. I also was forced to hit the decent sized puddle at a decent rate since I couldn't get the brakes to activate before hitting it. ANY INFO ON WHAT THIS COULD BE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!! Thanks in advance, - Mike
  7. Hey guys,I just did the back brakes on a 2005 Tahoe and found that as many others have, that the rotors can get hung up on the e-brake shoe even if it's not engaged. I decided that I'd make a video on my method of removal. Hope this helps someone that may search this in the future. Here it is: https://youtu.be/tViAFMv_VdU
  8. I bought a 2005 GMC Sierra 2500hd 5 months ago. I had a brake light (right side only) issue on my holiday trailer, had the 7 pin changed on the truck to no avail as that is what the mechanic said was the problem. The mechanic then told me to change the flasher under the dash (10 pin) so I did that and that fixed the trailer issue. Just last week, when I push the brakes on the truck, the signal lights on the mirrors both go at the same time on half solid but do not blink, both signal lights on the dash dimly light up, the third light on the truck signals, and the signal, brake lights and reverse lights outside go nuts. I just noticed today it only does this when the head lights are on, when they are off everything works as it should. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Did a search for this on the forum but saw only mentions of them.... Looking for some insight on the BBKs for my '16 Silverado... Wanting to here from current members/owners of BBKS what Pros, Cons, Comparisons, and experiences they've encountered with installing a BBK... Looking at some of the major brands like Brembo, Wilwood, Baer, StopTech, PowerStop, Rolloface, AP Racing, etc... Do you have just the front or rear installed? Drilled, Dimpled, Slotted, Combo rotors?
  10. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 with axles off of a 1993 ford f350. The chevy had abs brakes but the for axles do not, so I have the abs wire disconected. How do I remove the service brake system message and abs warning light?
  11. I could only find rear brake caliper and bracket torque specs for a 2015 silverado crew cab. Are the torque specs the same for the front? Thanks.
  12. Hello. I have a 2013 2500HD Silverado. While traveling through Colorado (Loveland and Veil Pass's) to be exact, on the down slope, and with a 14 foot trailer loaded with camping gear, my truck front end begins to shudder/shimmy after a lot of braking. I have trailer brakes on one axle and tried compression braking as much as possible. But, the front truck brakes still got hot. I have taken this trip many times, and several times with a Ford F-150, and never experienced this before this truck. Does any one know if this is a design flaw of the 2500HD Silverado, should I change brake pads, rotors? To me it just seems odd that my 2500HD does this, and the F-150 had not issues at all.
  13. I am putting new rotors, pads, rear brake shoes & springs on my 91 S15 4x4 Jimmy. Manual says, " check wheel bearings for leaks". There are no viable leaks, no looseness, or noise from rear or front bearings. I don't want to tear down and replace if no indication of trouble. The axle diffs have been serviced regularly, no leaks. What else would indicate bearings need attention? Thanks, Jim
  14. Question for you folks here - The local dealership said I am due for some new struts on the ol' truck (2009 silverado crew cab) when I went to take it in for an oil change. Now I typically like to do everything myself, but am currently stuck in Missouri for another year so I don't have access to my garage. Anyway, they quoted me at $580 to get the front done. So i was planning to shop around or even see if I could bang it out in a carport. However, now when I go to stop, I've noticed something odd. Sometimes when I apply pressure to the brakes I get a squeel (may be time for new brakes but we've also gotten a lot of rain) and after I come to a complete "stop", the truck kind of lurches forward and groans a little. It doesn't do it every time, but enough that I'm starting to notice. Would this be due to the warn out struts or should I investigate the brakes further? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  15. I'm just checking to see if I'm on the right track. I have a 2015 Sierra 1500 AT with 55K miles. The brake pedal feels spongy and I can feel a slight shake when I hit the brakes. I don't feel or see any vibration in the steering wheel. That makes me think I might have a warped rear brake rotor. My plan is to have the rear rotors resurfaced and drive the truck a while. If resurfacing fixes it, I will probably order new rotors and pads because, in my experience, rotors will usually warp again pretty soon after they've been resurfaced. Does that make sense? Should I look at something else before I remove the rotors? Thanks.
  16. Driving the Rockies: HELP

    Heading to Grand Canyon from Iowa in 2 weeks. I've never driven mountain roads before. I was really looking forward to it until I talked to a buddy who's lived in Colorado. He got me all worked up by telling me horror stories. So what do I need to know about climbing and descending mountain roads? 2015 Sierra Double cab 4x4 with 5.3 and 3.42 gears. Not pulling anything, but I'm concerned about wrecking my brakes on the way down.
  17. Hi all, 2002 silverado 1500, 2wd auto trans, 4.8L with about 150k on it The truck isn't mine, its a friend of mine but he wanted me to put pads & rotors all the way around. He complained that they squealed alot and didn't have good stopping power. So I bought 4 Wagner rotors and two sets of thermoquiet ceramic pads and did the brake job. When I drove it afterward it stops well, but there was some scraping and clunking noises. Figured out the scraping noise was just the backing plates being a little bent/rusted and rubbing the new rotors so that was an easy fix. Now this clunking or thumping noise... apparently it wasn't there before doing the brake job. It ONLY happens when you are coming to a stop, not when taking off from a stop, not while driving, etc. The last 20 feet or so of a stop it makes this rhythmic clunking or thumping noise. I'm pretty sure brakes don't making those kinds of noises. What I know: 4 new pads and rotors installed he wanted me to swap the front tires for the back so I did that too he dropped it off to me on his company's tow truck, and when he rolled it off the bed the back wheel climbed the curb I suspected a U-joint but that would make noise when pulling away too. Any ideas??
  18. Small shop in Kitchener ontario, working on medium duty trucks, canyons colorados rangers dakotas, brakes, oil changes, tire installs on rims already. Follow link to Kijiji ad for contact information information Please view this ad: Light duty truck repairs , http://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-repair-maintenance/kitchener-waterloo/light-duty-truck-repairs/1237560242?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttonsVIP&utm_content=app_android
  19. I drained and replaced half of my brake fluid, I replaced the fluid and did everything right....except I couldn't budge BOTH rear drain plugs and rounded the bleeder valves. So I didn't get all of the fluid replaced for fear of not being able to tighten the bleeder valves back on. I'll need to vise grip them of now, but need to replace them with new bleeders.
  20. Hey all, Was under my 2002 Tahoe the other day and noticed rusted brake lines under the drivers side door area. They look pretty bad and I think I'm going to have them looked at. Has anyone had to have brake lines replaced on their trucks? Just wondering what it might cost. Thanks
  21. 2005 Duramax Diesel (LLY with only 46,000 miles) Chevrolet Kodiak C5500 medium duty 35' Super C Gulfstream Enduramax Toyhauler RV Just yesterday when I parked it and turned it off the (or what I am assuming is my) airbrake system started cycling on and off. I was hearing the pump cycle on for 90 seconds every 3 minutes just like clock work (off for 3 minutes and then on for 90 seconds). I ended up disconnecting the battery to stop the cycling until I can get it resolved. I am now trying to get a mobile Technician to visit the RV site to diagnose it but am not having much luck in spite of calling the local large truck service centers (GM Medium Duty Dealer, Pilot J, Camping World, North Trail RV etc.). I am wondering if anyone has any ideas on what the problem may be. On the surface I am wondering if there is a sensor that may have calved. Thank You Paul P.S. VIN: 1GBE5U1275F504097
  22. I have a 2004 GMC 2500HD SLE. In the past year, I have had the ABS/BRAKE alarm light go on intermittently. I bought a scan tool to see what was going on. The code given is: C0550. ECM malfunction. Has anyone had a similar problem. I am going to take it off and check the connections to be sure its not just a compromised connection or water in the connector, you know, something like that. Those puppies are expensive. Brakes work fine.
  23. So, I got a nice vibration under braking, so its time to replace. Has anyone replaced pads and rotors yet? If so, where did you source them? Not sure if i'm going to the local part store or source from the dealer. (my application is a short drive to work and suburban driving, so no crazy setups. just looking for stockish replacements) Thanks in advanced!
  24. Hey, this is my first post so take it easy on me. Just have a few questions. I have a 2005 Chevy silverado 1500 z71 just in case that helps in any way. 1. Brakes - slightly squeaking / squealing more of a low pitch when breaking at lower speeds. not sure if just something like rust or anything, it is not a super loud screech so i'm pretty sure it isn't an indicator. Wondering if anyone knows what it could be. - Also, im not sure if it is maybe just how it is on that truck, but the brake pedal, I noticed when I press on the brakes, it kind of stays there for a brief second, and is able to move up and down a little without resetting back or pushing against and staying with my foot like most brake pedals seem to do. 2. Check engine code p0446 - have had the light go on and off for a couple of weeks. When fueling it cuts off at a little over 3/4 tank full. I believe it to be something clogged in that system based off of what i've read online. Wondering if anyone else has had the same problems or would know of what exactly to do. 3. Exhaust. - I notice the exhaust is 2.75" in diameter stock, which seems to make it more difficult to find any parts like exhaust cutouts or mufflers. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for that stuff. Just looking to gather more info, get a better idea of what is going on, maybe learn from others who have had the same issues or resolved similar issues.
  25. Scraping Noise After Brake Job

    New member here. I'm 17 and graduated from my school's Automotive program three weeks ago. I thought this meant I was knowledgeable enough to save my parents some money by replacing the front brake pads, rotors, axles, and bearings on their 2000 Yukon XL 2500 for them. Everything went relatively smoothly aside from a rusted-on bearing hub bolt that needed to be sawed off and replaced. After putting the tire back on, I gave the wheel a spin and a soft but noticeable grinding noise emanated from the wheel assembly. I tried the tire on the other side and the same thing happened. I looked up the problem and most people said to drive the car normally and the noise would go away after a mile or so. I drove the car 16.2 miles to my high school and back (braking hard three or four times) but the noise didn't go away. I invited an Autotech classmate over to take a look. We tried rebuilding the caliper pistons. Turns out the dust shield isn't replaceable, and I had to buy a new caliper for the passenger side. The noise didn't go away after replacing the caliper either. Any advice for a girl who's out of ideas? Thank you, Daughter-of-a-Yukon-Owner

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