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Found 8 results

  1. If yes, at how many miles and which ones did you go with? Did you also get new rotors? If yes, which ones did you go with? I'm at 38,000 miles and approaching 45,000-50,000 miles very soon, this is typically when I change my brake pads/rotors, being this is the first truck i've ever owned brand new, i'm a little concerned about brake pad brands and rotors.. Most of my driving is highway, maybe 80hwy/20city
  2. Hey guys, I have a 2016 Sierra Denali Crew Cab with the short bed and I've owned this truck from brand new for a little over two years now and have completed a little over 18,000 miles. I have a 6.2L motor in it with a 2.9L Whipple supercharger sitting right on top. The problem I'm facing is that it's been only two years and 18,000 miles on this truck and I have already had to change the front brake pads twice. Once at 9000 miles and the second time now at 18,000 miles. Now I know many of you may say that it's wearing out quick because of the hard braking of all the supercharged force, however I promise you...I do not drive like a lunatic, I barely race and the blower is often used in a straight line where I let the truck slow down on its own. I almost have never used my brakes when pushing the vehicle. I always made sure that I am on a long enough open and quiet stretch of road. In fact, I didn't even have a blower on for the first 6,000 miles. Is it normal for my pads to wear out this quick? I mean I don't even feel a thing, as in I don't feel any brake fade or any vibration or any form of braking power loss. It's always perfectly fine, however whenever I've taken it in for a scheduled service (6,000 miles and then now at 18,000 miles), my dealership tells me "You have 1mm or 3mm left on your brakes left" and I just don't understand how because as I said, the brakes as far as I am concerned feel perfectly fine. A friend of mine owns a regular cab with a blown 5.3L motor and he abuses his truck to world's end and yet his brakes lasted him 25,000 miles and then recently again he changed at a mileage of 50,000 miles (We bought our trucks at the same time and more or less modified the same mods around the same period too). Is it because my truck is significantly larger and heavier than his or are the brakes pads for Denalis just crap OR is my dealership taking me for a ride...?? I look forward to your feedback... Best regards and thanks in advance for your feedback.
  3. Buddy's got an 93' C2500HD (with the eight bolt rims...), Front Disks and Rear Drums. What I'm hoping to find out what people think is the best stuff to make brake pads & shoes out of. I'm looking at semi-metallic and ceramic brake pads; there's just too many d--- choices. Truck hauls a decent load about three or four times a month, otherwise it's 90% freeway/10% hilly mountain passes and snake trails. If I'm dealing w/ the local NAPA Auto parts store, is the a proven, go-to brake pad/shoe recommendation?
  4. I know I'm not the only one who has issues with the factory brake feel on these trucks as there is a 4+ page thread that's covered this issue before. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168632-brakes-insufficient/ To recite the above, I think the overall braking performance on these trucks is fine. The truck produces great stopping distances and several users tow constantly with the truck without issues. I think my gripe is the overall poor pedal feel and initial "bite" feedback the brakes give back. I have to really get on the brakes to get it to stop. I had a similar, but opposite, complaint when the truck was still on the factory tune with poor throttle performance but thats been rectified now that I have a Black Bear tune on it. I don't want to turn this into a debate vs Ford or Dodge. But for comparison sakes the only two other trucks that I've driven on a constantly basis was 2012 F150 and a 2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500, both had tremendously better brake feel than my 2014 CCSB GMC. However, on my 2500 I replaced the oem brake pads after a couple of months due to wear with some "top of the line" Wagner brake pads from the local parts store. Those brake pads felt very similarly like my truck does now. After some research I discovered that the OEM pads for the Dodge were far better than what I had put on there. So after a few months I spent $200+ on a front and rear set and the brake feel and bite were above and beyond better than what I had. Which leads me to believe that part of the problem is GM uses ceramic factory brake pads. If you want to know more about ceramic brake pads vs semi-metallic pads this is a good read. http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/the-best-brake-pads-ceramic-or-metallic.aspx Basically its a trade off, ceramic pads last longer, are quieter, produce adequate stopping distance don't "bite" as hard as semi-metallic pads. So I created this thread for a couple of reasons. 1) For other users to give feedback on their oem/aftermarket brake pads 2) To list are current available aftermarket brake pads. Hawk Performance I'm personally a big fan of Hawk Pads. I religiously used their HP Plus pads a couple of years ago when I autocrossed. I daily drove a set of HPS pads and switched to HP Plus pads on track time. Both were great pads. All of the Hawk pads are made from a non ceramic Ferro-Carbon compound. Here is what Hawk offers for our trucks; HPS - High Performance Street Compound Front P/N: HB561F.710 Rear P/N: HB568F.666 http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/high-performance-street Key Features - Increased stopping power
 - High friction/torque hot or cold - Gentle on rotors
 - Extended pad life
 - Low dust
 - Virtually noise-free
 - Ideal for import and domestic automobiles LTS - Light Truck and SUV Brake Pads: Front P/N: HB561Y.710 Rear P/N: HB568Y.666 http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/light-truck-suv Key Features - Designed for large brake systems found on full-size trucks - Engineered using technology from Fleet & Military applications - Ferro-Carbon friction material delivers more braking power and fade resistance than OE pads - Low dust - Excellent pad and rotor life - Virtually noise-free - Ideal for import and domestic full-size trucks, vans and SUV’s (1/2 ton) with moderate towing and hauling duty SD - Super Duty Severe Duty Truck Front P/N: HB568P.666 Rear P/N: HB561P.710 http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance-street/pads/superduty Key Features - Engineered from technology used in heavy- duty on/off- highway and Military applications - Extremely high coefficient of friction and fade resistance - Recommended for professional fleets (greater than 1 ton) and light trucks towing excessive payloads EBC Brake Pads I've never used EBC brake pads my self. But they are a world wide company and I know many people who have had positive experiences with them. My main gripe with them is they don't list brake pads by application. You have to look through one of their vendor sites to see which pads are available for your vehicle which just made putting this list more time consuming. To make things harder some of their brake pad lines have "sub" lines such as their Green Stuff pads. They have the Green Stuff 2000 pads which are for cars. 6000 line which are for trucks and 7000 line which are for trucks and 4x4 trucks. But when looking up pads online few sites really tell you which ones you are getting. Very confusing. And unlike Hawk, EBC uses different brake pad materials depending on their line, they use ceramic to their own armid-fiber compound. Anyways here is what they offer for our trucks from lest to most aggressive; Ultimax Brake Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/ultimax-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3069A0A0.aspx These are ceramic pads basically an OE replacement pad. Green "6000" Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3070A0A0.aspx These are advertised to be a light improvement over OE pads but still a lower friction coefficient than the Yellow pads. Green "7000" Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/greenstuff-brake-pads/ http://www.carid.com/2012-gmc-sierra-brakes/ebc-greenstuff-7000-brake-pads-4255539.html#product-details-tab In my opinion this is an odd pad. Its basically a longer lasting, low dust "Green 6000" pad. Red Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3071A0A0.aspx These are a kevlar and ceramic compound. I think these are aimed at heavy luxury cars since the main selling points are quiet, and low dust. Truck Yellow Stuff Pads http://ebcbrakes.com/product/yellowstuff-high-friction-truck-sport-brake-pads/ http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3072A0A0.aspx If I was to choose any of the EBC brake pads these would be the ones I went with. They are non-ceramic aramid- fiber compound. They seem to be a much more aggressive pad than the oe or other EBC offerings. There are mother companies that offer aftermarket brake pads such as Raybestos, Stop-Tech, Posi-tech, Wagner but I chose the two above since they are the most reputable and well known. And as far as brake rotors go stay away from fancy black, premium coating, slotted, drilled rotors. They will not affect braking distances or performance. http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/
  5. New member here. I'm 17 and graduated from my school's Automotive program three weeks ago. I thought this meant I was knowledgeable enough to save my parents some money by replacing the front brake pads, rotors, axles, and bearings on their 2000 Yukon XL 2500 for them. Everything went relatively smoothly aside from a rusted-on bearing hub bolt that needed to be sawed off and replaced. After putting the tire back on, I gave the wheel a spin and a soft but noticeable grinding noise emanated from the wheel assembly. I tried the tire on the other side and the same thing happened. I looked up the problem and most people said to drive the car normally and the noise would go away after a mile or so. I drove the car 16.2 miles to my high school and back (braking hard three or four times) but the noise didn't go away. I invited an Autotech classmate over to take a look. We tried rebuilding the caliper pistons. Turns out the dust shield isn't replaceable, and I had to buy a new caliper for the passenger side. The noise didn't go away after replacing the caliper either. Any advice for a girl who's out of ideas? Thank you, Daughter-of-a-Yukon-Owner
  6. So I've been pretty un-happy with the factory brake feel for a while now. I don't like the initial bite and I think they require allot of heat to really get good feed-back from them. So I decided to upgrade to Hawk HPS Front and Rear pads along with the Hawk HUS8657 Quiet Slot Front Rotors. I've used Hawk pads previously in my Auto X car and have nothing but good things to say about them, hopefully these will also be the case. Normally I would of left the O.E rotors but Hawk advertises improved initial bite and Amazon is selling these at pretty much 50% off. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D2UKPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 I'll be installing these in a few days and I'll give a good comparison of the new setup.
  7. The pads on the front disc brakes on the passenger side are wearing unevenly on my 99 Yukon (5.7L Vortec). I'm thinking that the most likely cause would be sticking caliper pins, but they seemed to be in pretty good shape when I checked them. A friend mentioned a sticking piston, but I'm not sure how that would cause uneven wear... any other ideas? I have about 2 mm left on the outboard pad and about 4 mm left on the inboard pad.
  8. Hello Fellow Chevy Truck Drivers, I have had my 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT 4x4 Z71 5.3L V8 since new. Since then I have replaced all tires with new Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires in September of last year (2012). I also had brake fluid changed and the back drums and pads serviced. Recently, my brakes in the front (sounds like both) squeak when I apply them to come to a stop. Please note though that they start squeaking about halfway in my commute to work which is about 1 hour in length or 42 miles one way. The area I live in his hilly but not too bad. I live in the Piedmont area of NC. I do not tow anything nor do I drive "like I stole it", at least not in a while since I haven't volunteered with a fire dept. since 2003. I thought about just going ahead and changing my brake pads on the front but I am hung on the subject of what brand to use and ceramic or not. Any help or suggestions or ideas about what is going on and what course of action I should take would be greatly helpful. Thanks in advance. Ricky
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