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Found 52 results

  1. Good afternoon, Newbie to this site. We have inherited a 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 from a uncle who has passed away. It has 76000 miles on it and has been garage kept. Upon receiving it I had it looked over by Goodyear service center since I was concerned about the brakes. They found nothing wrong but sold me services that I really didn’t need....my fault there. The dealer found lots of problems with the brakes at a cost of 2500.00. They now work fine. The reason for that intro is I’m wondering if Goodyear service did something to my truck, some type of sabotage, like they did to me 20 years ago with some radiator hoses, so last night I went to move the truck to use another vehicle, it had no power, no lights of any kind, no instrument panel. So I trickle charged it all night. Come this morning the charger light was green so I tried to start it, again, no power. I tried jumping it with a electrical starter that I had bought my uncle for times like this. It would not jump, I tried that machines trickle feature and it sounded and flashed like a turn signal...tick....tick...tick, so I pulled the battery and had it tested. It had 9 volts and the service tech said things didn’t look right, so I bought a new battery. Now we come to the good part. Placed the new battery in, made sure it was clamped down, the terminals were protected with a battery spray, everything looked good and when I hooked up the terminals the horn would blare and the lights would flash causing me to jump. I tried postive first and then negative first, I checked fuses, I checked the grounds that I could find, all in a 100+ degree day. So I figure it electrical but not sure how to track it down. The vehicle is stock and has never had a problem like this before. I have read that changing out the neg. battery cable might work, but this seems a bit different. I still think it might be sabotage for more business from Goodyear, but I hope not. Any ideas on where to start looking or things to check to provide more clues? Thanks to all.
  2. My battery was drained while sitting for 6 hours what could have killed the battery and the alternator is god the starter is good
  3. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  4. Lately my starter seemed to be dragging a bit after the truck sat overnight and fathers day morning it was totally dead so I had to call triple A since my portable jumper died a while back and I haven't replaced it yet. Before jumping he did a quick test that showed 12.6 volts but he said the battery couldn't take a load so most likely it was bad. I got the truck fathers day 3 years ago and figured there was nothing left to pro rate so I'd just buy a new battery. I did a search on the forum here to see what others were using and came across a thread where a member stated his battery went bad before the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expired and he got it replaced under warranty without a pro rate. I thought just my luck my warranty has probably expired but after checking my paperwork I found I actually had 4 days left! I took the truck in and sure enough the battery only had 28% with a 750 amp load so they replaced it at no charge. The rest of the story on how I saved even more dough...on the way home I heard a clunk under the hood after hitting a bump and when I opened it I immediately saw the battery leaning over (probably should have checked before leaving but who screws up a simple battery install right?!?). A quick peep with my phone flashlight showed the tech failed to hook the bottom of the battery under the tabs on the tray before putting the clamp on as seen in the second picture so the battery was loose. I went back down to the dealership and the service writer said she would have someone fix it as soon as they could. I told her I didn't have time to wait but I was bringing it in for a service in a couple of days so they could fix it then. She asked if it was a paid service and I said yes to which she replied "your service will be on us to make up for your inconvenience!" I don't get too excited when stuff goes wrong rather I only care what someone does to fix it and have to give kudos to the dealership for their more than generous offer to make it better than right. I also want to give big thanks to whoever it was that posted about having their battery replaced for free since I would have spent over 300 bucks if I hadn't come across that post! Looks like it's time to find some more mods to do with the dough I saved!
  5. Hey, Iv seen a bunch of posts about setting up a dual battery system and what to use, and i understand all that. Problem is i keep seeing articles about standard relay style isolators and smart isolators (VSR) not working if you have a "smart alternator" because of the fluctuations from the alternator based on driving conditions, and therefore have to go and spend a load on a DC-DC charger. $50 vs $300 Anyone have any issues with their standard relay style or smart isolators on their dual battery setup? Articles below, https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/auxiliary-battery-charging-in-vehicles-with-smart-alternators.html https://www.redarc.com.au/faq-tech-tips/new-vehicles-technology-can-affect-dual-battery-systems-charging-performanc
  6. I’m starting to consider a replacement battery for my 2015 6.2L High Country 1500. It has the 94R type battery, I believe. I have looked over the threads I could find with the search function without any specific results. One type that came up in a few of the threads is the XS Power brand, but there is not a recommendation for which series is most desirable. I also wasn’t able to find one in 94R. it seems that the majority of newer batteries have lower CCA than I recall in older “heavy duty” batteries. I’ve bought 1000 CCA batteries in the past, but now 800 -850 seems to be about the highest. The new Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries may be more efficient and therefore can operate reliably with less CCAs, I don’t know. My truck has to be relied upon in rural, cold weather situations, I need a strong, long life battery. That said, my questions are; Exactly which replacement battery have you used? What is good/bad about it and why? What would recommend for an extreme duty battery? What else would you recommend replacing? -I don’t know if these trucks need the “Big 3” replacement -my alternator is functioning within normal limits, but I’m open to replacement options as needed. -my cables seem clean, undamaged and corrosion free.
  7. Hi folks! Yesterday I was leaving home depot and my truck wouldn't start. I ended up jumping my truck and bought a new battery (3 years, 50k miles and the original battery seemed about right time to need replacement). I installed the new battery and noticed that my front passenger and rear passenger blinkers were not working. I ended up finding a blown right turn signal fuse and replaced it but am still having issues. Checked all other fuses in all 3 fuse panels and they are ok. When I started the truck I found out that my radio/ac/backup camera were not working as well and that the display constantly says service 4wd. Might also be other issues that I have not uncovered yet. When I connected the positive terminal I noticed a little spark but did not think anything of it. I've replaced batteries before and this seemed nothing out of the ordinary. After researching it seems like weird electrical issues all trace back to the BCM. I believe that the turn signals are controlled by the BCM as well, so this also points to it being the BCM. Does anyone know if a reset is possible for the BCM and if that might help my problem? Most of the BCM items I've found about resetting have to do with security system related issues. Can anyone confirm the correct way to perform a BCM reset? Kinda ticks me off that a simple battery replacement could cause other problems...very easy to engineer in circuit protection to sensitive electronics. Truck is 2014 Silverado crew cab, 4wd, 50k miles. All help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks!
  8. Hi everyone. Wondering if anyone has had an issue like this or could tell me where to start... I live in WI and we went through the polar vortex recently and my truck didn't move for 10 days (I work from home). I went run an errand and when I tried to start the truck, I got the starter spinning but it wouldn't engage. My first thought was since it sat for so long was to give the battery a charge and try again. I charged it up, checked the voltage on the battery which showed 12.85v so I tried starting again. Same result, just a spinning starter. That led me to think the solenoid on the starter is bad. The second time I tried to start it, I noticed the check engine light staying on when I turned the truck on. I grabbed my code reader and plugged it in, turned the truck on but got no codes. This is where it got weird for me. After I plugged in the code reader and scanned for codes, the truck started. I took the truck for a drive and and parked it for the night. The next morning, the truck wouldn't start again. This time there was no starter spinning, just clicking. I didn't know the age of the battery so I just decided to replace it. Put the new battery in, just a click. I put a charge on the new battery because it could have been sitting for a while, still nothing. I still noticed the check engine light on so I plugged in the code reader again, scanned, and the truck started. It sat overnight again and the next morning it started. I'm not sure if this is some weird coincidence or what's going on but I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of where to look first. I'm inclined to have the starter replaced but the seeming electrical glitch has me thinking that's not the problem. Truck has 49,000 miles on it.
  9. My 2014 Silverado battery was dead after sitting overnight. I recharged it and it discharged again. Had battery tested at Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was weak so I replaced it. Same problem. I noticed that with the doors closed, key out, the radio screen is "glowing gray" and does not go out even after sitting for an hour. If you get in the truck, still no key in the ignition, the welcome screen comes on and the radio starts playing. The headlights and interior lights go off after about 30 secs. I am getting a draw of about 200ma that does not decrease. What should I check next? Rich
  10. Twice my 2014 Sierra SLT has a complete shut off. Key fob doesn't work, no exterior or interior lighting. Almost as if battery is dead (battery just replaced less than a month ago). The only way I can get the truck to start is by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, wait a min, then reconnect. Once the battery is reconnected the truck starts and runs fine, no check engine light or errors. I had been having the steering issues but just did the recall yesterday and the shut off still happened after. Im guessing this is unrelated. Anyone have this experience or thoughts to what could be happening?
  11. Okay so I don’t know anything about vehicles just looking for advice. I have a 05 Chevy Tahoe z71 with 200,000 miles. In the last 6 months it’s been in the shop more than not and when it’s not in the shop it won’t start. Nobody can find the problem. I’ve had 3 different brand new battery’s on it and 4 alternators. In 6 months. It also has a new instrument cluster that was put in about a month ago. With a lot more things done. I’m just not sure what. I just know it’s been expensive. But still if I leave it sitting for more than an hour or two, the battery is dead and I have to jump it off. I’ve learned that if I unhook the battery cable, it will last for around 12 hours but after that. Dead. The mechanic said there was a short because sometimes all the interior lights won’t come on, only the front and very back, the middle won’t come on or if you open a certain door none of the lights come on... but still the problem can’t be found. Any advice on what to suggest to look for? I’ve had it almost 4 years and it’s been a good vehicle until this happened! Please help!
  12. I plan to direct wire a 12v power outlet to truck bed (2018 Colorado). I have done this with a passenger car but uncertain how to connect with this battery configuration. Any suggestions?
  13. Hello - would anyone know or have experience with cranking activation causing DIC to go blank. Recently when trying to start the 5.3L I get a click, sometimes 2 then the DIC blanks out and I have to jump start to get engine to fire. Even after a battery replacement this intermittent issue leaves me stranded - yesterdays attempt to jump lead to truck dying once putting in gear (2 times) - Hoping someone has experienced this very problematic issue, ill build the story below. No issues to date with starting, Ive had the vehicle for 14 months now. A few days back headed to store and everything is dead - no chimes, no lights, nothing. Jump box in place, fire up truck drive to complete errand - volt meter at dash right on 14 volts. Trying to head back home, first try to crank, one click and everything goes dead again. Jump start, normal readings on return trip home - put trickle charger on all night (not much current draw). Fires right up next day off to work. Let sit 10 hours - use DMM and read 12.6V at battery before cranking, starts right up and DMM shows 14.6V with engine running. Let sit some hours and DMM at 12.4V, let charge overnight, fires right up. Let sit at work lot for 9 hours, DMM reading at 12.6V before cranking, try to ignite engine, clicks once but fires up - stop on way home for new battery. All fixed right - NOPE After new battery installed all readings look good. 9 days later first thing in the morning, one click like dead but fires. Set at work lot all day, DMM reading before cranking at 12.5V - try to start nothing - jump start to get to appointment. After 30 minute appointment, no fire DIC dead again at key on - jump start put in reverse engine dies - jump start #2 put in gear engine dies - jump start #3 drive home with jump box attached to battery. Each time engine started I got a DIC message to put drivers window down and back up before I put it in gear - window was down, activating it up makes message go away. No other faults at DIC - no indication of weak battery and all normal until 10 days ago?????? My typical start sequence is: turn key to on position, wait for 5 charms then start engine - zero problems in 14 months until last 2 weeks - dash volt meter has always been hovering around 14volts, so charging system not in question. Seems every time I connect a jump box, charger or remove and re-install cables I can get vehicle running normal - until next start up. I read about bad ground cables - tough to find out there right now Looking for help - ideas - experiences with similar issues - next steps
  14. I have a 2007 Silverado 1500 with the 4.3 in it, no 4x4, and i have been having some problems with it. Until today it wouldnt turn over. The truck electronics would shut off sometimes going down the road and cause the truck to shut off for a split second and catch on again. Doesnt happen every day but one day it left me stranded with no electronics or ignition so i hitchhiked a little for another battery and all said and done, it ran fine. A month later, which is today, the truck turned on electronic wise but didnt even try to crank the motor so i thought it was starter and changed that out a few hours ago. It still will not turn over but will have electronics. Its left me sitting in the water with this one, any ideas?
  15. What would happen if I disconnected the ground cable sensor? I'm moving my battery to the other tray and would hate to add 4' of cable just to hit this sensor. Maybe I could add the long cable just so the sensor has something to report, but also run a second shorter ground to the block from the new battery location. Thoughts?
  16. Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers
  17. I was recently wiring an aftermarket switch and the terminals got bent and the positive and ground leads made contact and after several sparks the visor lights went out, left brake light and blinker will not function, and left side windows (front and back) stopped working. There’s no power getting to it at all. Also when it’s dark and the auto sensor turns the lights on, when I apply the brake the instrument cluster backlight cuts off and lights up again when i let off the brake. Total electrical screw up and i found out that this is causing a serious issue. Started smelling burning rubber and metal both through the air vents and outside the truck while standing by it. I later found out it’s shorting and getting severely hot around the right side of the mega fuse connected to the battery. So bad that it’s melted the plastic on the fuse and the fuse mount, rubber around the ends of the wire is melted and the bolts have become brittle. I’ve since replaced the fuse, need to replace the fuse mount. Still need to find where the ground is. Here’s the tricky part, tested the continuity of all fuses inside the cab and under the hood. MOST fuses in the cab ARE NOT even getting power, yet some are. None of the fuses are burnt or blown in both locations. Under the hood, some are not getting power but most are. I’m not savvy enough to know what the issue is but my thoughts are the problem lies between the battery and the fuse boxes. Maybe a burnt wire causing the ground? Bad wires? I have no clue...can anyone help? Any ideas, solutions, has anyone dealt with this? Also the lock and unlock will not work, yet you can hear the relay clicking when you press the button on the front doors and on the key fob. The lights blink, and even the alarm sounds if a door is opened but they do not lock or unlock. Thanks in advance! P.S. this is causing the engine to cut off due to the wires connected to the mega fuse losing contact. As i drive, with enough rattle they lose contact, and I lose power and eventually the engine cuts off. I have to jump it off constantly and pray that I make it where i’m going. It rattles back in contact and then back out. So I need to fix this quick, it’s killing my battery and straining my alternator.
  18. I have a 2500HD Silverado 6.1 gasoline engine. It has two batteries. It has had a snow plow installed in the past. Are both batteries used to start the engine? Or could they be? How can i check? Thanks for any help you can offer.
  19. Good evening — I have a 2002 Chevy Z71 Suburban and just purchased a reconditioned battery. Installed it and seemed to be fine. Today, the gauges were starting to get funky - gas gauge went to empty, oil pressure up and down, ABS light on, air bag light on, security light and battery light go intermittently in the message center. Has never done this before until I placed this battery in the truck. Any words of wisdom?? Thank you!!
  20. I have a 2012 Silverado LT Z71 with 5.3 that I bought used. When I bought the truck it did not have key fobs so I bought two factory style knock-offs from eBay. I took them to a locksmith and he programmed them and they worked great for almost a year. Last week I went to leave home and my truck battery was dead and would not crank. So, I charged up the battery and everything was fine except now neither key fob will work. The only response I get from the key fobs is if I hold both lock and unlock buttons at the same time the truck will go into tire pressure sensor relearn mode. So, then I took the truck back to the locksmith and told him what had happened. He said sometimes when the battery dies the truck will lose memory of the keys fobs. He then hooked up a zed-full computer and attempted to reprogram the key fobs. He tried multiple times several different ways and even used another type of computer but was unable to program them. The truck would go into keyfob learn mode but would never chime when he would hold the lock and unlock buttons down. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?
  21. Help anyone!! A problem with my 2016 Canyon purchased new June 2016 (15000 mi). Thursday(12/21) a.m. I drove to grocery, picked up a few items and returned. Normal right? Yesterday tried to start vehicle, dead clicks. Got battery charger out on start and it started fine. Drove around for 1 1/2 hours normal local driving. Stopped at restaurant and turned off truck. 20 minutes later, truck battery is dead. Called for help, jump started, and returned home. Put on trickle battery charger over night and tried to start again this morning---dead again. Same as yesterday. This time I noticed on info screen a Status message : "Waiting for Update Media" (I am including a photo) Anyone experience this issue? Can't believe a battery is dead after only a year one-half. I have appointment at dealer ship next Wednesday....(of course it's the Holidays!!!) Thanks for any help. Dennis
  22. By: Zane Merva & Matt Blouin Copyright 2015 - GM-Trucks.com The colder weather of winter can be punishing on your pickup’s battery. If your truck doesn't start with the same enthusiasm this spring as it did last fall, your battery is to blame. After two months of temperatures regularly below zero-degrees Fahrenheit, the stock battery in our Sierra was in rough shape. Even leaving a cell-phone charger plugged in overnight was too much for our old battery to handle. Luckily, changing your battery is one of the easiest pieces of maintenance to perform on your Silverado or Sierra. You can buy a new battery at any auto parts store and most large box stores. Consult with a compatibility chart or sales associate to ensure you purchase a compatible battery. Most newer Silverado and Sierra take a "Group 78" style battery. Aside from the correct type, it’s important to note the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of your stock battery and buy a new battery that is at least equivalent. If you live in a cold region or have hooked up accessories to your battery, getting a higher CCA-rated battery is a great idea. Never buy a battery that is smaller or has a CCA rating that is lower than stock. Tools needed 13mm socket (battery hold down) 10mm socket (battery cables) ½-in socket (body bracing) 6-in socket extension Safety Glasses Mechanic’s Gloves Applicable Vehicles 2007-2015+ Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra 1500 Time required 10-15 minutes Estimated Cost $150-175 depending on battery, not including refundable core charge Skills Required Beginner Technical Ability Able to lift 50lbs over shoulder height Warnings and Precautions Never allow a tool to connect the two battery terminals together Step One - Prepare The first step in any project is to prepare your work space. Gather the required tools and safety equipment. Park your vehicle in a place where you have adequate light and you won't have to move it for the duration of the project. Some vehicles have security codes or radio settings that need to be noted before disconnecting vehicle power. Step Two - Unscrew the engine bay bracing The battery in the older 2007-2013 body styles and newer 2014+ body styles are surrounded by bracing. While the designs are different, all model years require a 1/2-inch socket to remove the bolts. Remove the bracing and set aside in a safe place. Step Three - Remove the battery hold down The battery is held in place by a single 13mm bolt and block. Simply unscrew the hold-down using a socket and the 6-inch extension, Set aside in a safe place. Step Four - Disconnect the old battery Now, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket. Be careful to remove the negative terminal first and never allow the positive and negative wires or terminals to touch. Step Five - Switch the old and new battery The battery weights around 40lbs, so make sure you are comfortable lifting this much weight to around shoulder height. Step Six - Reassemble in reverse order Simply reattach your battery, battery hold down, and engine bay bracing in the reverse order. Step Seven - Restore settings Replacing the battery will most likely reset your pickup’s clock, radio favorites and memory seat settings that you may have customized. Take a moment before you hit the road again to restore these settings in a safe place while parked.
  23. First off let me start with how much I love this reliable old truck. We WERE at 4 years and 40,000 miles trouble free. Driving this morning at highway speeds. Felt a buck, wasn’t sure if it was transmission related or what. Then a mile later it starts bucking repeatedly. Followed by a loss of power, very slowly slowed down to 2-3 mph where it finally shut off. As it did this the low battery light flashed and the dash lights when dim. I shut the ignition off, waited a couple minutes and started it again. It cranked without hesitation and fired ran for a couple seconds, I tried giving some throttle and it cut out and shut down. I’m thinking fuel filter/pump, but the low battery light flash and dimming lights make me wonder if it’s something electrical. Any one experience this, any insight? Thanks in advance!
  24. I intend to install the camper auxiliary battery in my 2017 Silverado 2500HD. A few of the parts needed are on hand such as a 12135194 isolation relay and some cables. Still need to get appropriate fuses. The truck does is not equipped with RPO TP2, Battery, Auxiliary Camper option. A parts list of GM parts for the TP2 Auxiliary Battery would be a big help. I desire to get a layout drawing for the TP2 option harness and schematics. Most important are; 1.) where best to get the energizing voltage for my isolation relay and 2.) where to best connect with the 30 Amp line going to the trucks existing 7 pin trailer connector and where to interrupt the existing 12 volts from the under hood fuse box. Thanks
  25. I have a 2003 GMC Yukon. A long time ago i had a television put in along with a 800 watt inverter. Recently i have had issue with the battery in the morning. The first time the car went completely dead like their was no battery in the car. I would pull another car over to it to jump it and it would set the alarm off. I went to auto zone to get an alternator test and found out the alternator was bad. So i replaced it and went on a trip. I locked the car and came out to it the next day to discover that they battery was completely dead again. So i disconnected the inverter thinking that was the problem. Then this morning i went out to the car to head back home and it was dead again. One of my friends said it could be the alarm "brain" as he calls it. He said they get old and wear out and draw to much power when to doors lock. Is this possible?? What are some other things that could be draining my battery? I pulled the car into the garage and left it unlocked to see if that would be the problem will find out tomorrow. Should i replace the alarm? It is the factory alarm. Thank you for the help.
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