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  1. Does anyone know how to hook up the 12v constant power to the run lights in my trailer? They definitely work on our dodge 3500, but on my 2014 Sierra 1500 they don't. My only assumption is its not hooked up from the factory. Is it as simple as the older model GM trucks? Hook up a wire to the post by the fuse box and plug in a fuse for that location? Cheers
  2. I'm not sure how far ill get with this but here goes. I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L C engine code non flex. Its got 20k on it when i bought it had a crappy napa battery in it but the adaptive charging system worked fine with the napa battery it would be a 14.4 volts on start up and then drop down to 12 as it should and the back up to 14 per the conditions listed in the service info well i replaced the 94r napa battery with a 94r oriellys agm battery and the voltage would inky stay at 14.4 not drop down to 12 when electrical loads are low so i hooked up the scan tool at my shop and see that according to the BCM the battery was at 67%charged (all other data was normal and in the right conditions for the charging sytem to drop down to 12 volts) but the state of charge has to be at least 80% so i tried charging the battery and state of charge on the scan tool never changed so i attributed it to the fact that i put an agm battery in the truck and the BCM didnt like this so i went and exchanged it for a non agm 94r battery and intalled it well after driving it for a bit the charging system still did not drop down to 12 volts despite low electrical load. Ill hook the scan tool back up tomorrow and see what the BCM thinks the state of charge is but has anyone else encountered this? Thanks.
  3. Need some help on trying to determine our issue. The truck will die, out of nowhere, without any warning. Strange part is that the truck acts like it does not have a battery. Not like the battery is low, but like it doesn't have one (best way for me to explain, or like we lose all electrical). No lights at all, inside or out, no radio lights, doors won't unlock, absolutely nothing when you turn the key. Both times we have disconnected the battery and reconnected it and all goes back to normal for a month or so. The first time it did it we had been coming back from the lake, pulling our popup camper and had been on the road about 2 hours. Initially I thought it maybe due to pulling the weight of the pop-up, but it's far less than what we can tow (weighs about 3k pounds with all of our stuff stored in it -dry weight is 1750 pounds). However, this second time it did it we were not hauling anything. We were pulling into a parking spot and put it in reverse to straighten up and it just killed over dead. And again, no warning at all. I am replacing the battery tomorrow but I really don't feel like that's the issue since we have never had to jump it but I am going to replace it either way just in case. Had anyone else had this issue and have any ideas that I can look into in addition to the battery. *I will add that we are also having the Stabilitrack Warning light coming up too and that has been happening for about 6 months or more, so I guess that *may* be related, I am just not sure.
  4. Remote start only works when I disconnect and reconnect the battery. It will work for about 5 starts and it stops working. No check engine light. No warning lights, hood is closed, doors are closed and all the fuses are good. 2014 silverado 5.3L
  5. I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
  6. Hi folks! Yesterday I was leaving home depot and my truck wouldn't start. I ended up jumping my truck and bought a new battery (3 years, 50k miles and the original battery seemed about right time to need replacement). I installed the new battery and noticed that my front passenger and rear passenger blinkers were not working. I ended up finding a blown right turn signal fuse and replaced it but am still having issues. Checked all other fuses in all 3 fuse panels and they are ok. When I started the truck I found out that my radio/ac/backup camera were not working as well and that the display constantly says service 4wd. Might also be other issues that I have not uncovered yet. When I connected the positive terminal I noticed a little spark but did not think anything of it. I've replaced batteries before and this seemed nothing out of the ordinary. After researching it seems like weird electrical issues all trace back to the BCM. I believe that the turn signals are controlled by the BCM as well, so this also points to it being the BCM. Does anyone know if a reset is possible for the BCM and if that might help my problem? Most of the BCM items I've found about resetting have to do with security system related issues. Can anyone confirm the correct way to perform a BCM reset? Kinda ticks me off that a simple battery replacement could cause other problems...very easy to engineer in circuit protection to sensitive electronics. Truck is 2014 Silverado crew cab, 4wd, 50k miles. All help is MUCH appreciated! Thanks!
  7. I need to add a second battery to my 2020 Silverado CC. In previous years, it was simple. There was even a place. I don't see a single option or place to fit one. I called my local dealer multiple times to ask, but they never call back. Anyone else figured out a way to do this? Where is a good spot?
  8. Okay so I don’t know anything about vehicles just looking for advice. I have a 05 Chevy Tahoe z71 with 200,000 miles. In the last 6 months it’s been in the shop more than not and when it’s not in the shop it won’t start. Nobody can find the problem. I’ve had 3 different brand new battery’s on it and 4 alternators. In 6 months. It also has a new instrument cluster that was put in about a month ago. With a lot more things done. I’m just not sure what. I just know it’s been expensive. But still if I leave it sitting for more than an hour or two, the battery is dead and I have to jump it off. I’ve learned that if I unhook the battery cable, it will last for around 12 hours but after that. Dead. The mechanic said there was a short because sometimes all the interior lights won’t come on, only the front and very back, the middle won’t come on or if you open a certain door none of the lights come on... but still the problem can’t be found. Any advice on what to suggest to look for? I’ve had it almost 4 years and it’s been a good vehicle until this happened! Please help!
  9. Wat's Up Gents and Ladies. Just picked up my Brownstone metallic AT4 over the weekend. Fully loaded. Couple of questions hoping to find out if I can get any answers as it seems the salesman and dealer are conflicted. Here they are if you guys can answer: 1. Does the AT4 come with Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)? The manual says available in LD model???? I have the AT4 Premium add on, the technology and safety add ons i.e; lane departure, blind spot detection, forward collision and emergency braking, etc. It does not appear that I do have it, as the symbol for activating it (ACC) does not appear as I click thru instrument panel. 2. The emergency braking forward collision assist. How do I test this without rear ending someone....LOL 3. Also, they gave me at dealer looks like battery cables for a second battery? I would assume that it is for that, but it appears that I already have 2 batteries installed, one o the right side facing into engine from front and one on left looks like it is under fuse box? If not where would the other battery go? Other than that, I love this truck the best. I got loads of compliments on the truck as well as color. Hope someone could answer these questions I have. Thank you
  10. So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
  11. 2015 Silverado 1500 This weekend I changed my rear rotors. It was a simple swap, old ones off, new ones on. The next morning I went to start the truck and barely got it to turn over and the DIC threw a message up saying service trailer brake system. My radio also completely reset and when I press on my brakes all lights dim. Any suggestions in what this could be?
  12. So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it?
  13. Hello. I had problems with my heated seat and had to change the Master Door Window switch on the driver side. when i took the old switch out the the door chime was working. after a few moments it stopped working. the next day i got the new switch and installed it and the only thing it would turn on was the driver window. Locks didnt work from that door, passenger windows dont work from that door. i unhooked the battery for a few moments to see if it would fix it. Now im getting warning on my screen as in, service 4 wheel drive, service tire monitoring system, hood open (even though its closed) My seat wont move on the driver side.Blinkers dont work, Break lights stay on. i can turn the key on and the lights will come on but the switch to turn them off and to parking dont work they just stay on. Fog lights dont work. FOB key wont work. I have no clue what happened. anyone have any guidance on this? 2011 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ 5.3L V8 Crew Cab
  14. So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior
  15. Recently had battery drain drastically on my 2016 1500. Does not want to charge on the battery charger. I can get it to start and, when running, the cruise control doesn't work and the USB ports on the center console don't seem to work; however, the USP port inside the storage area of the console does work. Only thing I had done differently lately is involves messing around with the cruise control, based on reading something in the manual that said that if I held down the cruise control "set" button while in park with the e brake on it would idle at a set RPM. That never happened, but there may be some consistency between doing that and the problems I am having. Any thoughts?
  16. Good afternoon, Newbie to this site. We have inherited a 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 from a uncle who has passed away. It has 76000 miles on it and has been garage kept. Upon receiving it I had it looked over by Goodyear service center since I was concerned about the brakes. They found nothing wrong but sold me services that I really didn’t need....my fault there. The dealer found lots of problems with the brakes at a cost of 2500.00. They now work fine. The reason for that intro is I’m wondering if Goodyear service did something to my truck, some type of sabotage, like they did to me 20 years ago with some radiator hoses, so last night I went to move the truck to use another vehicle, it had no power, no lights of any kind, no instrument panel. So I trickle charged it all night. Come this morning the charger light was green so I tried to start it, again, no power. I tried jumping it with a electrical starter that I had bought my uncle for times like this. It would not jump, I tried that machines trickle feature and it sounded and flashed like a turn signal...tick....tick...tick, so I pulled the battery and had it tested. It had 9 volts and the service tech said things didn’t look right, so I bought a new battery. Now we come to the good part. Placed the new battery in, made sure it was clamped down, the terminals were protected with a battery spray, everything looked good and when I hooked up the terminals the horn would blare and the lights would flash causing me to jump. I tried postive first and then negative first, I checked fuses, I checked the grounds that I could find, all in a 100+ degree day. So I figure it electrical but not sure how to track it down. The vehicle is stock and has never had a problem like this before. I have read that changing out the neg. battery cable might work, but this seems a bit different. I still think it might be sabotage for more business from Goodyear, but I hope not. Any ideas on where to start looking or things to check to provide more clues? Thanks to all.
  17. My battery was drained while sitting for 6 hours what could have killed the battery and the alternator is god the starter is good
  18. Lately my starter seemed to be dragging a bit after the truck sat overnight and fathers day morning it was totally dead so I had to call triple A since my portable jumper died a while back and I haven't replaced it yet. Before jumping he did a quick test that showed 12.6 volts but he said the battery couldn't take a load so most likely it was bad. I got the truck fathers day 3 years ago and figured there was nothing left to pro rate so I'd just buy a new battery. I did a search on the forum here to see what others were using and came across a thread where a member stated his battery went bad before the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expired and he got it replaced under warranty without a pro rate. I thought just my luck my warranty has probably expired but after checking my paperwork I found I actually had 4 days left! I took the truck in and sure enough the battery only had 28% with a 750 amp load so they replaced it at no charge. The rest of the story on how I saved even more dough...on the way home I heard a clunk under the hood after hitting a bump and when I opened it I immediately saw the battery leaning over (probably should have checked before leaving but who screws up a simple battery install right?!?). A quick peep with my phone flashlight showed the tech failed to hook the bottom of the battery under the tabs on the tray before putting the clamp on as seen in the second picture so the battery was loose. I went back down to the dealership and the service writer said she would have someone fix it as soon as they could. I told her I didn't have time to wait but I was bringing it in for a service in a couple of days so they could fix it then. She asked if it was a paid service and I said yes to which she replied "your service will be on us to make up for your inconvenience!" I don't get too excited when stuff goes wrong rather I only care what someone does to fix it and have to give kudos to the dealership for their more than generous offer to make it better than right. I also want to give big thanks to whoever it was that posted about having their battery replaced for free since I would have spent over 300 bucks if I hadn't come across that post! Looks like it's time to find some more mods to do with the dough I saved!
  19. Hey, Iv seen a bunch of posts about setting up a dual battery system and what to use, and i understand all that. Problem is i keep seeing articles about standard relay style isolators and smart isolators (VSR) not working if you have a "smart alternator" because of the fluctuations from the alternator based on driving conditions, and therefore have to go and spend a load on a DC-DC charger. $50 vs $300 Anyone have any issues with their standard relay style or smart isolators on their dual battery setup? Articles below, https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/auxiliary-battery-charging-in-vehicles-with-smart-alternators.html https://www.redarc.com.au/faq-tech-tips/new-vehicles-technology-can-affect-dual-battery-systems-charging-performanc
  20. I’m starting to consider a replacement battery for my 2015 6.2L High Country 1500. It has the 94R type battery, I believe. I have looked over the threads I could find with the search function without any specific results. One type that came up in a few of the threads is the XS Power brand, but there is not a recommendation for which series is most desirable. I also wasn’t able to find one in 94R. it seems that the majority of newer batteries have lower CCA than I recall in older “heavy duty” batteries. I’ve bought 1000 CCA batteries in the past, but now 800 -850 seems to be about the highest. The new Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries may be more efficient and therefore can operate reliably with less CCAs, I don’t know. My truck has to be relied upon in rural, cold weather situations, I need a strong, long life battery. That said, my questions are; Exactly which replacement battery have you used? What is good/bad about it and why? What would recommend for an extreme duty battery? What else would you recommend replacing? -I don’t know if these trucks need the “Big 3” replacement -my alternator is functioning within normal limits, but I’m open to replacement options as needed. -my cables seem clean, undamaged and corrosion free.
  21. Hi everyone. Wondering if anyone has had an issue like this or could tell me where to start... I live in WI and we went through the polar vortex recently and my truck didn't move for 10 days (I work from home). I went run an errand and when I tried to start the truck, I got the starter spinning but it wouldn't engage. My first thought was since it sat for so long was to give the battery a charge and try again. I charged it up, checked the voltage on the battery which showed 12.85v so I tried starting again. Same result, just a spinning starter. That led me to think the solenoid on the starter is bad. The second time I tried to start it, I noticed the check engine light staying on when I turned the truck on. I grabbed my code reader and plugged it in, turned the truck on but got no codes. This is where it got weird for me. After I plugged in the code reader and scanned for codes, the truck started. I took the truck for a drive and and parked it for the night. The next morning, the truck wouldn't start again. This time there was no starter spinning, just clicking. I didn't know the age of the battery so I just decided to replace it. Put the new battery in, just a click. I put a charge on the new battery because it could have been sitting for a while, still nothing. I still noticed the check engine light on so I plugged in the code reader again, scanned, and the truck started. It sat overnight again and the next morning it started. I'm not sure if this is some weird coincidence or what's going on but I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of where to look first. I'm inclined to have the starter replaced but the seeming electrical glitch has me thinking that's not the problem. Truck has 49,000 miles on it.
  22. My 2014 Silverado battery was dead after sitting overnight. I recharged it and it discharged again. Had battery tested at Advanced Auto Parts and they said it was weak so I replaced it. Same problem. I noticed that with the doors closed, key out, the radio screen is "glowing gray" and does not go out even after sitting for an hour. If you get in the truck, still no key in the ignition, the welcome screen comes on and the radio starts playing. The headlights and interior lights go off after about 30 secs. I am getting a draw of about 200ma that does not decrease. What should I check next? Rich
  23. Twice my 2014 Sierra SLT has a complete shut off. Key fob doesn't work, no exterior or interior lighting. Almost as if battery is dead (battery just replaced less than a month ago). The only way I can get the truck to start is by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, wait a min, then reconnect. Once the battery is reconnected the truck starts and runs fine, no check engine light or errors. I had been having the steering issues but just did the recall yesterday and the shut off still happened after. Im guessing this is unrelated. Anyone have this experience or thoughts to what could be happening?
  24. I plan to direct wire a 12v power outlet to truck bed (2018 Colorado). I have done this with a passenger car but uncertain how to connect with this battery configuration. Any suggestions?
  25. Hello - would anyone know or have experience with cranking activation causing DIC to go blank. Recently when trying to start the 5.3L I get a click, sometimes 2 then the DIC blanks out and I have to jump start to get engine to fire. Even after a battery replacement this intermittent issue leaves me stranded - yesterdays attempt to jump lead to truck dying once putting in gear (2 times) - Hoping someone has experienced this very problematic issue, ill build the story below. No issues to date with starting, Ive had the vehicle for 14 months now. A few days back headed to store and everything is dead - no chimes, no lights, nothing. Jump box in place, fire up truck drive to complete errand - volt meter at dash right on 14 volts. Trying to head back home, first try to crank, one click and everything goes dead again. Jump start, normal readings on return trip home - put trickle charger on all night (not much current draw). Fires right up next day off to work. Let sit 10 hours - use DMM and read 12.6V at battery before cranking, starts right up and DMM shows 14.6V with engine running. Let sit some hours and DMM at 12.4V, let charge overnight, fires right up. Let sit at work lot for 9 hours, DMM reading at 12.6V before cranking, try to ignite engine, clicks once but fires up - stop on way home for new battery. All fixed right - NOPE After new battery installed all readings look good. 9 days later first thing in the morning, one click like dead but fires. Set at work lot all day, DMM reading before cranking at 12.5V - try to start nothing - jump start to get to appointment. After 30 minute appointment, no fire DIC dead again at key on - jump start put in reverse engine dies - jump start #2 put in gear engine dies - jump start #3 drive home with jump box attached to battery. Each time engine started I got a DIC message to put drivers window down and back up before I put it in gear - window was down, activating it up makes message go away. No other faults at DIC - no indication of weak battery and all normal until 10 days ago?????? My typical start sequence is: turn key to on position, wait for 5 charms then start engine - zero problems in 14 months until last 2 weeks - dash volt meter has always been hovering around 14volts, so charging system not in question. Seems every time I connect a jump box, charger or remove and re-install cables I can get vehicle running normal - until next start up. I read about bad ground cables - tough to find out there right now Looking for help - ideas - experiences with similar issues - next steps
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