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Showing results for tags 'amps'.
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I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
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Wanted to show you guys my recent audio build I did on my 15 Sierra. Specs: Stock head unit, audio module reflashed for flat 20-20k signal with attenuation or eq. AudioFrog GB Series 3 Way active front stage. AF GB10 Tweeters AF GB25 Mid Range in the dash AF GB60 6.75" Midbass drivers in the doors JL 13TW5 V2-2 Subwoofer SubThump Single Downfire box Metra 6x9>6.5 door adapters Sound Deadener showdown CLD Tiles, Closed Cell Foam, and Mass-Loaded Vinyl Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 for front stage Arc Audio XDi 1100.1 for Subwoofer, puts out 650 watts @ 2 ohms Helix DSP PRO Digital Signal Processor Helix Director Digital Touch Screen Interface for the DSP. Mosconi AMAS2 Bluetooth to Optical module Knu Conceptz Karma SS Speaker Wire Knu Conceptz Krystal Kable RCAs Knu Conceptz Kolossus Fleks Power and Ground Cable Knu Conceptz KNF60 Distro block Tuned with UMIK1 and REW Here are some pics of the build and the finished product at the end. Enjoy!
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Hello everyone, just curious on suggestions for a replacement alternator for my '06 Sierra, (5.3 crew cab, 4X4). Anyone put a higher performance part in there or just stick with the DELCO part? I have ripper out the air box and replaced with K&N Open Air, and there is a Magna Flow on the back end, but other than that not much is different...Thanks, on a side note there is a lot fo talk about whining steering when you turn left, I have that too any suggestions/thoughts? -Rummie
