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Found 4 results

  1. I need help finding a part. Vehicle is a 2019 Chevy 1500 LT double cab. On top of the battery is an assembly which takes the battery voltage and splits it out to four "studs" which power cables are connected to. The picture below shows the "underside" of my assembly. There is one spot open, and I'm trying to find the square studded bolt. I can't find anything in the upfitter book or on line. Does anyone know what the name or p/n is for the bolt, or where I can find them? Second picture shows the top side of the studded bolt, which is where you connect on the wire terminal.
  2. I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
  3. Short novel coming.. my 2006 Silverado was throwing 0499 code so replaced fuel cap, purge and valve solenoids.. check engine light still on. Didn’t bother checking power of course, took her to the stealership and $220 later found out that the system wasn’t getting juice. The fuse was fine, but the fuse terminal in the fuse box was loose or faulty so was only getting intermittent power. They told me they did a “temp fix” to it but that if the light came back on i might need a new fuse box. Sure enough next day the light comes back on.. How hard is it to replace a fuse terminal? Honestly I’m having trouble even figuring out how to remove the fuse box itself, looks different than all the ones I’ve seen on YouTube. Should any old mechanic be able to do this or do i need to take her back to the dealership? Do i need to replace the ENTIRE fuse box? Thanks..
  4. I plan to direct wire a 12v power outlet to truck bed (2018 Colorado). I have done this with a passenger car but uncertain how to connect with this battery configuration. Any suggestions?
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