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Found 7 results

  1. I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
  2. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  3. Does anyone have a pin out or wire diagram of the overhead console of a 2016 Silverado? I have searched everywhere for days and cant find one. Here is what I'm trying to do. I put in the home link system in my truck but the only cover I could find was one with the opening back window. My truck doesn't have one. I installed a bull bar that has an led light bar and want to replace the window switch with a switch for the light bar. The wire I am looking for is the one that turns on the backlight when the headlights are on, and if separate dims the light. Thank you in advance, Rick
  4. Hey everyone, got a question someone might be able to answer. I've got a '14 Silverado 1500 WT. At the back under the bed on the driver side near the spare tire is a wire hanging down with no end. Originally thought it was a frame ground because the outer casing is black but today I took a pair of wire stripers and found that there are 3 thin wires inside of the black sheathing. They are Solid Red, Solid Yellow, and Solid Black. All lights on the truck work, the trailer lights all work when plugged in too. Anyone have any idea what this could go to? I currently have it rolled up and ziptied to the frame. Thanks for any help.
  5. 2014 WT, Ecotec 4.3L V6. Rarely gets used. Bought new. First time they chewed through the injector harness. This time it is the wiring that goes to engine cooling fan and the alternator. Trying to do repairs and came upon this in the attached picture. It was wrapped in the tape of the harness and is something OEM. There are two wires (black with white stripe going in on one side and two smaller gauge wires coming out of the other. In between, there is the black plastic tube filled with a rigid white plastic. I don't know what is in the tube. The wires end up going to the ECM near the front driver side of the engine compartment. The black plastic tube has letters "FL-0" on it. Does anyone know what this is or what the wires control. Is it a fusible link maybe. The issue that is making repair difficult is that the wires that have been chewed through only have about 1/8th of an inch exposed before it goes into the white plastic making soldering or crimping impossible. I could try and trim away some of the plastic and expose more wire but if there is some component in the plastic it could be damaged. If nothing is in there i could cut the entire thing away and solder new wires. Any ideas?
  6. I'm installing a line out covertor for an amp in my 2016 Silverado WT. it does not have the BOSE system. I need to know what color the speaker wires are behind the radio and which plug they are on. I have looked every where for a diagram but I can not find one.
  7. Has anyone used this connector for the trailer wiring harness? I'm not even sure what its called, but I found this one on Amazon. I want to get the extra flat connector to power some aux lights. I'm concerned if this will give me any issues down the road with a short or corroded connectors behind the bumper. Also, I have never removed the 7 pin connector from behind. Does this thing really just pop into the outlet in the bumper? they only have this one crappy image so I can't really tell what I'm getting. I'm just looking for confirmation that this will work as well/ easy as I think it will before I purchase it. Thanks in advance. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A1M1J6/ref=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2KP4NEI66GGZ5&coliid=I3MVNPYIDWPDUM http://www.hiddenhitch.com/products/electrical-wiring/t-one-connector/ApGK9QTbwGCEp12MzUQaOF27max79EXn
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