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I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.

my fuel gauge on my 2005 silverado is not working. i replaced the fuel pump with one i got at 1A auto, but the gauge still does not work. sometimes it is stuck at E, other times it is stuck at F. the pump i got from 1A is supposedly the right one for my 2005 silverado 1500 rwd 5.3L ... anybody have any suggestions for me? i've seen some references to 'bad ground wire' in other forums, but nobody gives any details on what wire/connection/location, how to find/fix, etc. ... adv-thanks-ance.

Vehicle Details 2023 GMC Sierra Denali with a LZ0 3.0L Duramax Diesel. It has 7,300 miles in total. Issue DEF Level indicator not reporting proper fluid level. At startup, with DEF tank full, the center dash display shows “DEF Range 200 mi”. If the level drops by one gallon below full, the display shows “DEF Level Empty” and you can not use any of the other center dash displays. It locks the display and only shows “DEF Level Empty”. Appointment With Dealer After arriving for my appointment and explaining the above for the second time, 1 hour and 20 minutes, they said I was all set. They didn’t perform SB # 22-NA-150. They reset the DEF system and cleared its data. This seems to have corrected the issue, but I’m not confident that this is a long-term solution. The DEF level indicator still is reading less than full when the tank is, like it will show no higher than ¾ full. Anyone else having this issue? Any long term fix?

Ok, We are all familiar with the instrument cluster (servo) issues with the early 2000's trucks... I have the same story. gauges started to fail one at a time. For the last several years, all I had working was the fuel gauge. (I would measure speed by my GPS, and I have an OBDII module where I could read oil pressure, coolant, anything else...) Anyway, I drove my wife's vehicle to work for a night because she was loading some stuff to take elsewhere. When I got in my truck the next night, I noticed she had moved the steering wheel up. I moved it back down to my preferred position, and when I started the truck, ALL my gauges worked... I even had lights lit that had been out for years... But the REALLY odd thing, is my odometer now shows ~ 80k less miles than it did last week... I was under the belief that the mileage was in the "computer", not the dashboard... and my wife never even started the truck, only loaded some things in to it.... Anyone have any thoughts?

I just replaced the plastic lense in front of instrument panel and had to reset my speedometer needle because I moved it on accident. I had it set properly at the zero mark with the truck turned on to accessory mode. The speed is maybe 2 mph off. After I turn the truck off and open the door the gauge goes past zero to its resting spot but it bounces back and forth a couple times before resting. Should I try reseting it or does anyone of a better way to do so. Any help is appreciated