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Showing results for tags 'gauge'.
Found 17 results
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Ok, We are all familiar with the instrument cluster (servo) issues with the early 2000's trucks... I have the same story. gauges started to fail one at a time. For the last several years, all I had working was the fuel gauge. (I would measure speed by my GPS, and I have an OBDII module where I could read oil pressure, coolant, anything else...) Anyway, I drove my wife's vehicle to work for a night because she was loading some stuff to take elsewhere. When I got in my truck the next night, I noticed she had moved the steering wheel up. I moved it back down to my preferred position, and when I started the truck, ALL my gauges worked... I even had lights lit that had been out for years... But the REALLY odd thing, is my odometer now shows ~ 80k less miles than it did last week... I was under the belief that the mileage was in the "computer", not the dashboard... and my wife never even started the truck, only loaded some things in to it.... Anyone have any thoughts?
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I've read threads on here, read other threads (from other sites), spoke with people etc. MY MAIN GOAL OF THIS POST IS TO SEE IF ANYONE HAS ANY COMMENTS OR SUGGESTIONS ON MY WIRE DIAGRAM BEFORE I PULL MY TRUCK APART. THANK YOU My goal is to add the following: 1. High Output Alternator (320A Iraggi) 2. Add Second Battery (Optima Yellow Group Size D34-78) 3. Upgrade All Charging wires to 1/0 Gauge (GP car Audio Power Wire w/Big 3 kit) From what I gather, The route that i'm going to take is as follows: 1. Install the Alternator 2. Run 1/0 Gauge Ground from (-) of Alternator to Frame (Leave factory wire connected) and to (-) of Factory Battery 3. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Alternator to (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) 4. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (-) of Factory Battery to (-) of Second Battery and to Body Ground 5. Run 1/0 Gauge Power from (+) of Factory Battery (fused @ 320A) to (+) of Second Battery (fused @ 320A) 6. From there all Power needed for AUX Equipment (Amps, Rock Lights, Inverters, etc) will Run from the (+) of the Second Battery (Fused appropriately) I did a lot of research into this and the only things that had any second thoughts on were if I should run a relay or not and if i should run the 1/0 gauge wire through the current sensor. (not sure if it would even fit). I decided not to do either. The first of which I chose not to do, mainly for the fact that the relay has a voltage drop of its own (minor), but also, it's removal has been the fix for many people in car audio to reduce lights from flickering. The amount of battery capacity that I have won't have issues with me needing to isolate my batteries. The second of which I chose not to do, was only because I read a lot of posts (mainly in car audio forums) that didn't do this and had no issues. I feel that the current wire that is running through the sensor must suffice. I'm still a bit on the fence on this one. But, I could only find maybe 1 or 2 instances where people did this modification and it was for much smaller rated systems. Neither seemed to have any problems. I just tend to follow the majority of examples that don't have issues. I'm attaching my general wire layout. If anyone sees something or could have a rational discussion, please do. I'm all ears.
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I just replaced the plastic lense in front of instrument panel and had to reset my speedometer needle because I moved it on accident. I had it set properly at the zero mark with the truck turned on to accessory mode. The speed is maybe 2 mph off. After I turn the truck off and open the door the gauge goes past zero to its resting spot but it bounces back and forth a couple times before resting. Should I try reseting it or does anyone of a better way to do so. Any help is appreciated
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my fuel gauge on my 2005 silverado is not working. i replaced the fuel pump with one i got at 1A auto, but the gauge still does not work. sometimes it is stuck at E, other times it is stuck at F. the pump i got from 1A is supposedly the right one for my 2005 silverado 1500 rwd 5.3L ... anybody have any suggestions for me? i've seen some references to 'bad ground wire' in other forums, but nobody gives any details on what wire/connection/location, how to find/fix, etc. ... adv-thanks-ance. -
Hello all, I just recently noticed that on my 2015 silverado the plastic piece that is front of my gauge cluster is cracking. Is this a common thing to have happen to a truck with less than 30k miles? Would this possibly be covered under warranty? I have seen some posts about people replacing it with plastic from specmo, how well does it look after its been done? Any help is appreciated -
I have a 2018 1500 Silverado LTZ Z71 and my analog speedo got stuck. It reset when I restarted but it has been doing it a couple of times now. On reset there is a grinding noise for the needle to find it's 'spot'. Dealership couldn't find any codes. Oil life monitor also seemed strange as it didn't move from 55% for over 1,600 miles and then dropped to 24% in the next 2,100 miles. The only reason I noticed all that was because we went in a 3,700 mile road trip lasting about a week. I had a 2014 before this and never had that issue. Digital seems fine just not the analog. Anyone aware of any TSBs or known issues? Because it's not readily reproducible and they couldn't find any TSBs they say they can't just replace.
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I have a 2018 1500 Silverado LTZ Z71 and my analog speedo got stuck. It reset when I restarted but it has been doing it a couple of times now. On reset there is a grinding noise for the needle to find it's 'spot'. Dealership couldn't find any codes. Oil life monitor also seemed strange as it didn't move from 55% for over 1,600 miles and then dropped to 24% in the next 2,100 miles. The only reason I noticed all that was because we went in a 3,700 mile road trip lasting about a week. I had a 2014 before this and never had that issue. Digital seems fine just not the analog. Anyone aware of any TSBs or known issues? Because it's not readily reproducible and they couldn't find any TSBs they say they can't just replace.
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My 2018 denali changes one of the digital gauges to tranny temp when I press tow-haul. Does the 2019 AT4 with tech pkg do the same, or do you have to go in the trailering app, etc.? -
Hello, I have a 2005 Silverado. It has about 157k miles on a 5.3L. I drive about 20 minutes to and from work, and lately my dash will start having issues while driving. It doesn't happen all of the time, and usually only lasts until I hit the gas pretty good. The radio usually loses power and intermittently goes on and off. The battery gauge will drop and the low battery light will illuminate. The door lock security light illuminated. Also, a chime will alarm during the cycle in which it happens while driving. This morning at a stop sign, I shut it off and restarted it. The gauges all acted like it was still off for a minute then jumped to proper location. Then I shifted into Drive, but the IP showed it still in Park. I drove about 1/4 mile before the doors locked and the panel first displayed as it should. It still had a failure cycle; though, until I got to work and shut it off. The automatic door locks did not unlock after I shut it off. Is this caused by a faulty battery ground for alternator issue?
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Hello, Everyone I know this seems like an unimportant thing to complain about, but today, while driving, I noticed that my oil pressure was too high. I pulled over and shut the engine off to investigate, only to discover that my Oil pressure Gauge Needle is Offset, and I don't know how it happened, is this normal? The gauge seems to read just fine, just with an offset of almost half the sweep Does anyone have a fix for this? I don't have OCD or anything but I just find it very annoying, since the truck has less than a year with me Thanks in advance, Here are a couple of pics, truck completely off, and at idle:
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2003 Chevy Avalanche z66 Stepper Motor Gauge replacement
Frankiex07x posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
I bought a kit off eBay with new Stepper motors, soldering tools as well as new LED lights. I had two malfunctioning gauges; the RPM and the battery gauge were off so I thought I should replace them. Today I did and lone behold, all of my gauges are off now. I'm not too sure if it's the soldering job I did (Never soldered a day in my life before) or may be something else entirely. I did notice that when I was soldering the new stepper motors in, that they were still lose and the silver solder pads were gone from when I was desoldering. Are those pads crucial for a perfectly running stepper motor? I have no more soldering wire but I'm thinking of picking some more up and starting over. If any of you guys have had similar issues or would like to give me some assistance I would appreciate it. Thanks! -
Good afternoon all, I'll try to make this short and sweet so here's the deal: 1) Gauge Coolant Temp wont respond. 2) I have done the necessary test with the coolant SENDING unit. (Ground out to see if it pegs hot) 3) Used Voltmeter to check for signal to sensor which it has. 4) Checked Fuses. All are good. 5) Rest of gauges work. And here's where I'm stuck. Apparently the 1995's don't use stepper motors? (I haven't taken the cluster apart yet) But if they do, I cant find the right ones. Seem to be for 1996 or 1997 and up models. This cluster does not have a conventional pigtail that plugs into it but rather the cluster "sinks" into the adapter. The circuit board is flexible. Does anyone have any info on this type of cluster? If its a simple stepper motor or resistor I can fix it. (I think, lol) However, rather than replace with a refurbished or used one where the mileage will not be correct I'd rather upgrade to a digital cluster if possible or even swap in a later model chevy cluster. Anyone know if this is possible? One thing ive found out with the 95's is that it isn't very compatible with other models. Please ask any questions that you may have. I look forward to your responses! -
I have 3 race tuners I am selling, I have them on ebay so am posting the links for ease and pictures, if this is not allowed please advise. All 3 are unlocked and unmarried and ready for use in great shape, everything included as pictured. Some have egt and accessory cords included. No reasonable offer refused, you can bid or email me if interested at [email protected] to discuss. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edge-Products-Juice-w-Attitude-CTS-21102-Tuner-ProgrammeR-Duramax-LLY-LBZ-06-07-/142272987655?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edge-Race-Evolution-25500-Duramax-06-09-Chevy-GMC-6-6L-Diesel-LMM-LBZ-LLY-SIERRA-/142272983997?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edge-Juice-Attitude-CS-2006-2007-6-6L-LBZ-GMC-Chevy-Duramax-Diesel-21002-egr-06-/142272978938?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
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Alright! my silverado has the infamous stuck speedo and tachometer, wondering if anyone on here has actually repaired them your self, like with those cheap little motor kits. is it worth it!?
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I started the truck and the oil pressure gauge is jumping between the bottom and middle. The oil pump was replaced because of a similar issue and a oil warning message on the display about 4-5 months ago. This is a 2008 silverado 4x4 5.3 flexfuel. Thanks for reading:)
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I need some feed back of what the problem might be. The oil gauge in my truck is unstable it moves back and forth and based on past cars, the oil gauge was always stable.
