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Found 17 results

  1. I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.
  2. Did you know you can upgrade your gauge cluster in your 2014-2020 Silverado or Sierra? We recently did just that on our 2019 Silverado LTZ which came from the factory with a "mid-level" gauge cluster. Click here to read our review of the White Automotive and Media Gauge Cluster Upgrade https://www.gm-trucks.com/white-automotive-upgrade-heres-how-to-add-a-digital-gauge-cluster-to-your-silverado-or-sierra/
  3. First time poster, long time GMC customer. 2015 Yukon Denali XL 63,000 miles 4wd. Got in the vehicle to take my family out to dinner on July 10th, 2017. Less than 1/2 a mile after driving I noticed the idle wasn't right and felt a slight shudder. I slowed down and looked for a place to pull over. About 10 seconds later the truck stopped running and I pulled over to the side of the road. There was no warning lights on and all gauges showed the correct temps and readings. I tried to start the truck and it turned over but didn't start. After that initial attempt the starter would not turn the engine over. My first thought maybe the battery was dead and that caused the truck to stop running. Hooked up jumpers and no difference. Had the vehicle towed to our local dealer Watson Chevrolet in Tucson. After the dealer removed the pulleys and tried to turn the block by hand they called to inform me that my Yukon had overheated and seized the block. I was shocked to say the least! Apparently there has been a light leak in the radiator that was not noticed by me or their service department. The dealer is taking the stance that since the radiator was not covered by power train the repairs to the motor will not be covered. My stance is that the vehicle never had a low coolant warning or even showed a change in the engine temp that was out of line. The temperature gauge read normal the entire time and no warning lights or messages ever came on. 5 weeks prior I had the truck into the same dealer trying to resolve a hard shift problem. They replaced the valve body on the transmission and the temperature sensor for the transmission. Apparently the transmission sensor was not displaying the correct temp and needed to be replaced. The dealer wants me to authorize a tear down to see what the cause was. It is apparent that the radiator leak was the cause of the overheating but I had no indication that is was low on fluid or that it was overheating. The dealer can't tell me if they find that the warning system or gauges were not functioning properly that the warranty will cover the rebuild of the motor. I am looking for advice on how to proceed.
  4. 2015 Duramax 3500 WT Crew 4x4 Filled up the truck and when I turned the key on, the fuel gauge went all the way to full and all the way to empty like it always does, except it stayed at empty. The shop that did my bypass last year says he doubts it’s anything inside the tank and hasn’t run into any issues with the newer model trucks. Any ideas?
  5. I have a '99 6500 with the 454. It's got aprox 70k on a GM rebuild engine, been well maintained for the last 12 years, has 180k on the truck. It started showing hotter than usual, when shut off and restarted the check gauges light would come on, temp up around 210 and then it would come down after running. It started heating up to 210 quickly in 3-4 miles from cold, not normal. If left idling it will show 220+, if you rev is some the gauge gets jerky and will come down. I checked the temp with a scan tool and it agrees with the dash gauge (that means the dash gauge is ok), a thermo in the rad says 180, lazer heat gun shows the same or cooler at the goose neck so it doesn't seem to be hot, doesn't feel hot. Seems this only has one temp sensor (in the right head), it doesn't have a separate gauge sensor? If I could find a separate gauge sensor i would bet that is the issue but can't see one. So I changed the temp sensor and thermostat, no difference. The fan clutch seems good (tight). I went ahead and had the radiator checked out as it's old but it's clean. Wondering if anyone has a good idea why it's showing hot when it's really not? Let me now your thoughts/ideas as I am running out of my own.
  6. I have a 2004 Suburban 1500 and a couple of days ago all of my dashboard gauges, DIC and information lights suddenly stopped working when I started the truck. I checked the under hood fuse (is there another one to check?) and it is good. When I reinstalled the fuse the gauges and DIC started working again. The next morning when I went to start the truck the same thing happened again: no gauges. Removing and reinstalling the fuse now has no effect. The truck drives fine with no issues; just no gauges or DIC. Where should I start looking for a solution? Thanks. Frank
  7. I'm trying to determine whether I have the common gauge cluster stepper motor problem or if it is something else. I noticed today that all of my gauges were pegged to zero and inoperable. Is it common for them to go out all at once like that? (I could understand failure of one at the time.) Or is it some other problem? I pulled the cluster. All of the solder joints looked good --still shiny and new. The only odd thing is that two dozen of the test points (or vias) have splotches or corrosion around them (see pictures). All of my fuses (both boxes) test continuous. No codes from my OBD2 reader. The lights seem all good. I just don't want to send my cluster in and find the real problem is somewhere else in the vehicle.
  8. Well, that's the most expensive carwash I've ever gotten. Took my '04 Avalanche 1500 Z71 into the dealership and asked them to attempt to activate the transmission temp gauge that was added to the OE cluster. Talking to the service writer and technician, they seemed very "by the book" and said the programmer matched it to the VIN number, and if the VIN said it didn't originally come with the gauge, it wouldn't activate it. At first, the writer said he might waive the diagnostic fee because it was unsuccessful. Well, so much for that. Still charged me full $125. Well, at least it's the cleanest it's ever been. I knew it was a gamble from the start when I added the gauge to the cluster that didn't originally have one. But from what I've read here and other forums, it seemed like there was a pretty good chance it would work. If any of you are, or could recommend a technician in Southern California that thinks he can do this for less than $200, I'm all ears. My next step is contacting one of those mail-order cluster companies to see if I can ship it off, or they'll swap out the core for an HD cluster with a working trans gauge. Thanks in advance.
  9. My brother is having trouble with the backlighting on the instrument panel of his 2001 Silverado. Fuse is good. Anybody else have this problem? Any ideas?
  10. I just purchased a 2013 2500hd with the 6.0 from a dealership last week with 84k miles on it. Tonight I started it and the service traction control light came on with the message on the info center. That's weird but then the doors started locking and unlocking themselves, the gauges kept going on and off, the engine would surge under any throttle so bad I couldn't drive faster than 55mph and the CEL came on. I took a video of what it is doing. The engine codes I got were pending and they are P105C P2544 Has anyone dealt with anything like this before?
  11. Went to start the truck today and when I turn the key I get nothing. Dash and radio don't light up. Checked all the fuses and relays that I thought might be applicable, but everything looks fine. Battery has a full charge, Interior lights work, but the passenger side headlight doesn't come on and the driver's side turn signal doesn't blink when locking and unlocking the truck. Anyone heard of this issue before? I have a 2016 Sierra 1500 5.3L Z71 with 10,000 miles. Haven't had any issues until now.
  12. Hello, just picked up a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali this week and have a couple questions if anyone can answer then would be great. I'm curious if there's a way to have all 4 gauges on when in theTechnology and Media Themes without engaging the tow/haul mode? Also, are there any additional themes either available or being made available besides the 3 that come installed in the system? Thanks, Storman22
  13. I bought an 05 avalanche for a fixer upper, it has no power to the drivers door at all, and half of the instrument cluster is dead(left side). All Fuses are fine. Whats the usual culprit for the door, the module or the harness? If i get another cluster and door module/harness would i have to get it/them reprogrammed?
  14. rcmirola

    IMG 0396

    From the album: Gauges

    Before temp sender and sensor replacement.
  15. rcmirola

    IMG 0426

    From the album: Gauges

    engine off, after coolant,engine sensor and sender replaced.
  16. I've been having a problem with my 05 4.8l v8 Silverado that I'm hoping someone here can shed a little light on. So, friday morning, started my truck to go to work and it kind of lagged a little bit, but started. By lunch time, I went to start it and all it would do is click (battery). So I jumped it and it started right up. Driving home (about an hour or so) I noticed the battery gauge would fluctuate, 12-15v. So I chalked that up to it being an alternator. Auto parts store confirmed it and $180 later I was on my way home to fix what I perceived to be the problem. I replaced it the following morning, kind of lagged a little bit when I first started it but it ran just fine. Drove around for about an hour or so to give it a chance to charge the battery and noticed that the gauge still fluctuates. Took it back to the store and they said the alternator is fine. The truck runs fine but when I start it, it bogs a little. Not sure yet if it is still draining the battery. What could be the problem? Do I need to reset the computer? What would be the best way of doing so? Is it a grounding issue? Thanks, Edwin Secrist
  17. I have recently had some issues when starting my truck all of the instrument panel and gauges either intermitently work and flicker or don't work at all. It is not a defective needle motor and I removed the Gauge panel looking to see if it was a loose conection. al the digital readings, lights and guages continuousy flicker as if a loose ground. The dealer wanted $500+ to fix, by replacing the gauges and reprograming. Anyone having or had problems like this? Any suggestions? I can order the part myself from GM Parts direct for $165. and it took less then 10 minutes to remove and resinstall the old gauges. I still need to have it reprogrammed for the milage but just wondering if it isn't soemthing else.
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