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Showing results for tags 'gauges'.
Found 10 results
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Ok, We are all familiar with the instrument cluster (servo) issues with the early 2000's trucks... I have the same story. gauges started to fail one at a time. For the last several years, all I had working was the fuel gauge. (I would measure speed by my GPS, and I have an OBDII module where I could read oil pressure, coolant, anything else...) Anyway, I drove my wife's vehicle to work for a night because she was loading some stuff to take elsewhere. When I got in my truck the next night, I noticed she had moved the steering wheel up. I moved it back down to my preferred position, and when I started the truck, ALL my gauges worked... I even had lights lit that had been out for years... But the REALLY odd thing, is my odometer now shows ~ 80k less miles than it did last week... I was under the belief that the mileage was in the "computer", not the dashboard... and my wife never even started the truck, only loaded some things in to it.... Anyone have any thoughts?
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Went to start the truck today and when I turn the key I get nothing. Dash and radio don't light up. Checked all the fuses and relays that I thought might be applicable, but everything looks fine. Battery has a full charge, Interior lights work, but the passenger side headlight doesn't come on and the driver's side turn signal doesn't blink when locking and unlocking the truck. Anyone heard of this issue before? I have a 2016 Sierra 1500 5.3L Z71 with 10,000 miles. Haven't had any issues until now. -
Hello all! I am hoping for a little help to get me started in the right direction. My work truck is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel, and I apologies in advance for the length of this post! In the summer I started having issues with my truck batteries draining completely while parked. Anytime I didn't drive it for a few days, dead. Batteries tested as needing replacement (they were 9 years old). Replaced both batteries and back to life! Fast forward several months and I thought I had the same issue, dead batteries and the truck remotes wouldn't unlock the doors. Unlucky me, somebody also tried to steal the truck a bit before this and punched out the lock so I couldn't get in. Quick call to the tow truck and the door was unlocked. I popped the key into the ignition and it started right up so I guess the batteries weren't dead? At the time I thought that was strange but the remote door locks were working again and I headed off to buy a new lock cylinder and batteries for the Fobs. I wondered at this time if the issue was the non-stop rain we were having. I noticed that the drivers side rear passenger seat belt was wet when I unrolled it and thought there may be water getting into the truck somehow, but the headliner looks dry. I really should have installed the cylinder but didn't because, well, it was raining and I didn't have a garage to work in. During these few weeks the door worked just fine most of the time. At times it seemed like the truck just wouldn't wake up until I had pressed the FOB enough times and uttered a curse or two, and then it happened again. Locked out. Called the tow truck again and got the doors unlocked. Truck starts but this time the remote unlock doesn't come back to life. I sucked it up and installed the new lock cylinder in the pouring rain so at least I could lock the doors. At this time I started getting messages through the DIC about the TPMS needing servicing. I drove randomly for the next month and a half without getting the situation fixed due to...life happening fast and hard. Then I noticed that while I was driving the gauges looked like the reset. Everything dropped to zero and the lights for the airbags, check engine etc lit up. I got messages across the DIC to have the air bags and 4x4 system serviced, and the radio went dark. Within a second or two the gauges came back to life and the radio restarted and all went back to normal. I checked the battery terminals to make sure they were clean and tight then wrote it off to a bad road and didn't think more of it. I clipped off the wiring for the camper harness as I noticed it was corroded and potentially arcing, and I pulled the fuse on the obstruction system (parking sensors) because of error codes for an open ground and bad sensor. (I don't use the system anyway because of hitches and trailering) Over the last 3 weeks the gauges have started to reset themselves more and more frequently while driving, and once the engine didn't shut down when I turned and removed the key. I quickly put the key back in, gave it a quick turn on and off and the truck shut down. I have had the batteries die twice in that time and I don't know if it was my toddler playing with the cab lights or something else. As of yesterday the gauges and radio will only work when the truck initially starts. After the start they will operate for a few seconds then warning lights galore and gauges drop to zero. Radio goes dark, but HVAC stays on. Dash remains lit up and DIC works but the transmission selector doesn't show what gear the truck is in. Turn indicators will illuminate but not flash. Once even with the truck off and the key out the HVAC stayed on and the blower kept running. Buttons on the climate control panel were nonresponsive so I had to pull and replace the fuse on the HVAC. I know that the truck will need to go and get professionally assessed, however I am hoping for a little guidance as to what the issue(s) could be. Given the holidays and weather, getting an appointment to get the truck checked over hasn't been easy and I want to make sure I get it into the right type of shop. Any guidance or insight is appreciated. Again, sorry for the rambling nature of the post. -
I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.
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Did you know you can upgrade your gauge cluster in your 2014-2020 Silverado or Sierra? We recently did just that on our 2019 Silverado LTZ which came from the factory with a "mid-level" gauge cluster. Click here to read our review of the White Automotive and Media Gauge Cluster Upgrade https://www.gm-trucks.com/white-automotive-upgrade-heres-how-to-add-a-digital-gauge-cluster-to-your-silverado-or-sierra/
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First time poster, long time GMC customer. 2015 Yukon Denali XL 63,000 miles 4wd. Got in the vehicle to take my family out to dinner on July 10th, 2017. Less than 1/2 a mile after driving I noticed the idle wasn't right and felt a slight shudder. I slowed down and looked for a place to pull over. About 10 seconds later the truck stopped running and I pulled over to the side of the road. There was no warning lights on and all gauges showed the correct temps and readings. I tried to start the truck and it turned over but didn't start. After that initial attempt the starter would not turn the engine over. My first thought maybe the battery was dead and that caused the truck to stop running. Hooked up jumpers and no difference. Had the vehicle towed to our local dealer Watson Chevrolet in Tucson. After the dealer removed the pulleys and tried to turn the block by hand they called to inform me that my Yukon had overheated and seized the block. I was shocked to say the least! Apparently there has been a light leak in the radiator that was not noticed by me or their service department. The dealer is taking the stance that since the radiator was not covered by power train the repairs to the motor will not be covered. My stance is that the vehicle never had a low coolant warning or even showed a change in the engine temp that was out of line. The temperature gauge read normal the entire time and no warning lights or messages ever came on. 5 weeks prior I had the truck into the same dealer trying to resolve a hard shift problem. They replaced the valve body on the transmission and the temperature sensor for the transmission. Apparently the transmission sensor was not displaying the correct temp and needed to be replaced. The dealer wants me to authorize a tear down to see what the cause was. It is apparent that the radiator leak was the cause of the overheating but I had no indication that is was low on fluid or that it was overheating. The dealer can't tell me if they find that the warning system or gauges were not functioning properly that the warranty will cover the rebuild of the motor. I am looking for advice on how to proceed. -
2015 Duramax 3500 WT Crew 4x4 Filled up the truck and when I turned the key on, the fuel gauge went all the way to full and all the way to empty like it always does, except it stayed at empty. The shop that did my bypass last year says he doubts it’s anything inside the tank and hasn’t run into any issues with the newer model trucks. Any ideas?
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I have a '99 6500 with the 454. It's got aprox 70k on a GM rebuild engine, been well maintained for the last 12 years, has 180k on the truck. It started showing hotter than usual, when shut off and restarted the check gauges light would come on, temp up around 210 and then it would come down after running. It started heating up to 210 quickly in 3-4 miles from cold, not normal. If left idling it will show 220+, if you rev is some the gauge gets jerky and will come down. I checked the temp with a scan tool and it agrees with the dash gauge (that means the dash gauge is ok), a thermo in the rad says 180, lazer heat gun shows the same or cooler at the goose neck so it doesn't seem to be hot, doesn't feel hot. Seems this only has one temp sensor (in the right head), it doesn't have a separate gauge sensor? If I could find a separate gauge sensor i would bet that is the issue but can't see one. So I changed the temp sensor and thermostat, no difference. The fan clutch seems good (tight). I went ahead and had the radiator checked out as it's old but it's clean. Wondering if anyone has a good idea why it's showing hot when it's really not? Let me now your thoughts/ideas as I am running out of my own. -
From the album: Gauges
Before temp sender and sensor replacement. -
From the album: Gauges
engine off, after coolant,engine sensor and sender replaced.
