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I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 5-6-2019 General Motors is recalling 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 4500, 5500 and 6500 vehicles, 2017-2019 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 and 3500 vehicles, and GMC Sierra 2500 and 3500 vehicles equipped with Duramax 6.6 liter diesel engines and an optional engine-block heater. The engine block heater cord or the terminals that connect the heater cord to the block heater may short circuit and fail. GM says that a short-circuit may damage the engine components and increase the risk of fire. Unfortunately, GM does not have a fix yet for the problem. To see if your truck is on the list of those recalled, you can use the GM Recall Lookup Tool found here. GM's number for this recall is N182206310. If your truck is on the list contact your dealer to be sure you get updates.

Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com April 12th, 2019 A few months ago we started to notice something on our 2019 Silverado that no owner of a brand new vehicle wants to see. Rust. Specifically on our rear bumper, just around the plastic step. It wasn't huge and didn't spread very far from the edge... but we couldn't stop noticing it. There was no excuse for rust on a 8 month old vehicle with less than 10,000 miles. The photo above shows the minimal but noticeable rust patch. It was even happening on both sides and in the same place. The issue seemed odd. Unfortunately, we've just been too busy to bring it by to our local dealership for them to look at. Lucky for us, our procrastination has paid off, because in the time between us first noticing the problem and getting off our lazy asses to drive to our dealer, GM has released a TSB about this very issue. It appears that on most of the early trucks, production of the bumper was completed incorrectly. The steel assemblies should be bent into shape then chrome plated. But that didn't happen in a small part of the early bumpers. The supplier bent the area around the side step after the bumper was chromed. The new folds in the steel damaged the chrome, cracking it and making the truck susceptible to rusting. What's the fix? If your bumper is rusting already, Chevy and GMC will replace it. If it has not yet started to rust, they will apply an automotive grade wax/sealant to prevent rust in the future. If you're unsure if your 2019 has this issue we suggest doing the following: 1. Give your truck a bath for heavens sake! 2. Clean the rear bumper step area with a hose or pressure washer. Front and back! We find lots of dirt collects behind our step in the bumper assembly. 3. Inspect around the foot step area and behind the foot step area. We found rust in both areas! 4. If in doubt, wait for it to rust and kindly ask for a new rear bumper. Our dealership, Banks Chevrolet in Concord, NH has been great getting our rust issue fixed. Our service adviser Justin has kept us in the loop during the repair and gave us a loaner Silverado LT while they have our truck. He even made sure any other outstanding service updates are also applied to our LTZ while it was in the shop. As it turned out, there were six open issues that needed addressed. Here's the official Service Update you can print out and bring to your dealer when you take your Silverado or Sierra in for service.

I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 5-15-2019 General Motors has earned the "Automotive Excellence Award" for its innovations on the new generation Silverado. The award was presented to GM by The Steel Market Development Institute (SMDI). The GM Silverado design earned the award for its innovative use of advanced high-strength steel. The all-new 2019 Chevrolet Silverado has a body structure composed of nearly 86 percent steel. That includes ultra-high-strength steel (UHSS), advanced high-strength steel (AHSS) and high strength low alloy (HSLA) materials in the Silverado's cab, bed, and frame. The use of these strong, but lightweight materials contributed to the new Silverado's mass reduction. During the all-new Silverado's launch presentation, GM President Mark Reuss told the audience that the head of a hammer is steel. He added, “I don’t know how much work you’d get done with an aluminum hammer.” Related Story: 2019 Silverado Focus – Fuel Saving Technology - Facts, Specs, Images "Automotive Excellence Award winners use advanced high-strength steel in applications to provide the best value for OEMs and consumers while also improving vehicle performance and sustainability," said Jody Hall, vice president of the automotive market at SMDI. "With automakers shifting their vehicle mix to favor trucks, CUVs and SUVs, new steel grades are leading the way in innovation. The 2019 Silverado is a great example of the capability of these next generation steel grades." The new 2019 Silverado is 450 pounds lighter than the outgoing truck (crew cab V8 models). High strength steel makes the frame stronger, and stiffer, and also lighter. The cargo bed is also a new lighter, stronger steel.

I have an 07.5 silverado 1500 with a 5.3 in it. Everytime I turn the key on the encoder motor tries to shift into a different gear. I have changed the encoder motor, the dash switch, and made sure the front actuator works. None of those seemed to have fixed the issue. It throws a C0398 DTC which when I google it everything says it could be virtually anything. I have looked through so many forums and articles but can't find anything so I'm posting here to hopefully get some help.

Maybe this will help anyone who has a truck that turns over, but won't start. P1682 is the code on the computer... Here are the technical details on this code: P1682 Chevrolet Description There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set. P1682 Chevrolet - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Possible causes - Faulty ignition switch - Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted - Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) When is the code detected? The ECM has detected a voltage diference between two circuits Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible no crank or start I decided to replace the ignition switch because that's what other people had done and it was cheaper than a dealership diagnostic. Besides this one code, my instrument console also threw up warnings about servicing the traction control, anti-lock brake system and some other alarming messages. Including that the engine power was reduced! The ignition switch on my 2011 Silverado is part # 40 in this diagram: To get at it you probably need to drop the interior trim panel below the steering column. Once that's done you need to pull out the steering wheel tilt lever part #20. It should unplug strait out with a screwdriver. Then you unclip the plastic shroud part #22 and #1 Then you unclip the connector going to the Key Chip Sensor #2. And unclip the wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch. CAUTION: You might have a red plastic locking clip in the harness that needs to be disengaged before the connector will come out. The next step is to remove the lock cylinder. You'll need a pick. Here is a video of someone doing it on a similar vehicle: You can then unclip the Key Chip Sensor #2 and set it aside. You will then have to unhook the white key sensor that that's mounted on the ignition switch case #3 you just removed the key cylinder from. You'll need a small screw driver to push on a plastic tab to unlock it. Once that's done it should rotate easily for removal. If you break it off, it's not a big deal since it's part of the ignition switch you're replacing... even so, I'd practice on this one so you'll be better at removing it if need be in a later step: You can now remove the ignition switch. You'll need two small screw drivers or nails to push into the two square holes to the left and right of the "black hole" shown in the picture below: This video is also good to watch before starting this project: Now the ignition switch I pulled out of my 2011 Silverado was GM Part #25733005 ; D1485F (DO NOT USE) The dealership I contacted said that part had been replaced with GM Part# 22887691 which makes sense since the previous one died. Hopefully the new part lasts longer! Installing the switch is pretty much a reverse of the original process. The only issue is that you need to get your ignition cylinder and the switch gears aligned properly. I had to remove and replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder (and the key security chip reader) a few times before I was able to get the gears on the switch to be correct. (The guy in the second video explains how to align it, but I either didn't pay close enough attention or couldn't do it quite right) You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again. Hope this helps someone else!

While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.

Does anyone know where the theater effect for the dome light courtesy light relay is? I need to tap into the power before this effect in the wiring. 2019 Silverado 1500 RST

Hi everyone, first time posting, but long time reader. I usually try to avoid posting when I can, and just browse the threads and read about related problems and figure it out from there. Even though I've found many threads that are similar to the problem Im having, I still can't narrow it down to my next step. so if anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. Ok so, BAD oil leak problem with my friends 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. It's had this leak for a while, but it's gotten to the point now where it's starting to leave puddles. I power washed the entire area, and I actually got it pretty clean. Today when I looked again to see if I could trace the source, I had a much clearer picture of where the leaks are actually coming from. From what I've read it seems as though it could be the valve cover gasket, the crankshaft sensor, the rear main seal, or even the oil pan gasket. My problem is that to me, it looks like it's coming from almost all these places. I looked inside the bell housing and I don't see it looking completely soaked in oil. It does however, look like the leak is mainly coming from in front of the bell housing behind the engine, in between the two. I'll attach some pictures. These would be from overnight after I power washed it, so the oil hasn't blown anywhere from being driven or anything. Thanks so much to anyone who's got any ideas!

Engine swapping a 2011 Gmc Sierra 1500 Crew cab 4wd engine into a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 1LT I need to know if this is possible, and what would be required to do so. Please tell me any information you know about this if possible or if not. I am trying to a put the 2011 gmc sierra 1500 engine into the 2006 chevy 2500 hd. I am trying to figure what needs to be done to do the switch, Is it possible to just drop it in and use a computer or do i need to retune something. I just need to know what needs to be done, tools needed, and if its even worthwhile. Vin numbers 2006 - 1GCHK23U66F166410 2011 - 3GTP2VE33BG225875

Thom Cannell Contributor, GM-Trucks.com February 26th, 2019 General Motors had no news in Chicago, but delivered crowd-pleasing displays from Chevrolet and GMC, as well as Cadillac and their crossovers and SUVs. Of interest to truck enthusiasts were Heavy Duty Chassis Cabs from Ram, facelifts and equipment improvements from Toyota, face-lifts for some Nissan CUVs, a new Range Rover Evoke and more. The Chicago show is immensely different from Detroit, and that is a pun. With 2.3 million square feet of display space, the result is wide-spread (and often poorly lit) displays, indoor off-roading tracks, and worn boot-leather. These are the highlights. Alphabetically, Chevrolet brought its cars, well; they must have been there somewhere, and its new Heavy Duty Silverados, which were abundant in every powertrain and trim. And they brought the Lego Silverado, which is amazing in detail and execution. GMC “stood tall” with its Heavy Duty Sierra walk-under display and great lineup. Cadillac replaced their militaristic all-new XT6 with a gray one; it was better. They do have emotional colors available? Chevrolet Chevrolet spanned much of the North Hall, filling it primarily with trucks, crossovers like the fiercely red Blazer to lead your eyeballs into the display and nearby SUVs, but the focus was on Super Duty. Silverado had pride of position, though the new Traverse was mentioned, as well. From fifty-feet, you’re not convinced this Lego truck isn’t a real Silverado Z71. Even closer, it still fools the eye. Among the Silverados on display was this High Country. The Z71 Heavy Duty proved popular to the dealer, potential buyer, and social media crowd. Green is nice, Red is better, and note the difference in wheels and running boards per model. This is a great juxtaposition, the new Silverado Heavy Duty and its upgraded diesel engine. A perfect pair. We again saw the snow plow in Chicago, this time close enough to crawl beneath for a photo of the no-cutting-required blade attachment system. A pair of close-ups, first the dedicated, and covered, block heater that’s available and a better representation of the two bed steps designed for easy steel-toe boot access. At first glance, in Detroit, the new Blazer didn’t move our emotional needle the way we hoped. Much better in Chicago, with better lighting and blazing red color. It surely fills a needed niche in Chevrolet crossovers; it’s based on a global platform that carries Cadillac’s XT5. GMC GMC brought no new product to Chicago, only a clean, bright and entertaining display. Of note, their walk-under Sierra and the tracked Aspen special we mentioned as debuting in Detroit. Everyone Else Trucks, regardless their size, battle on GVWR, tow ratings, tire size, infotainment screen size (and bigger is always better), and now tailgates. Ram has a split gate that opens larger-left, then right, or folds. Ram offers a pullout entry step for easy entry, signature Ram box, and collapsible internal storage barrier. Ram’s big news—excuse the pun—was its 2019 Ram Chassis Cab; they brought several upfitter modified models as demonstrations, including a luxury fifth-wheel version. With so many ultra-lux 1500s, 2500s and 3500s, why there haven’t been more full-on interiors aimed at horse owners and racecar haulers, is retrospectively a mystery. Ram now offers its most modern interior to Class 3/4/5 upfitters. The chassis is 97-percent High Strength Steel, the diesel engine is an up-rated Cummins 6.7-liter knocking out 800 lb.-ft. of torque and mated to an 8-speed transmission. Not to be left out, Jeep brought a Rubicon version of the new Gladiator. Looks pretty rad to us. You? Land Rover’s latest small SUV/crossover Evoque is externally similar, though the platform is all-new and a bit longer with improved cargo space. Off road technology, which the brand is known for, is improved and the 246-hp Ingenium engine is now mated to a 48-Volt mild hybrid power assist to make 296 eco-friendly horsepower. Toyota debuted TRD Pro upgrades to its Tacoma, RAV4 and Sequoia. RAV4 has barely arrived in dealer showrooms, yet received welcome off road chops thanks to a dedicated suspension, all-terrain tires, all wheel drive, and standard torque vectoring for this RAV4 TRD Off-Road model. Tacoma, the perennial best-selling mid-sized pickup in North America, adds power-adjustable seats in most grades and has improved infotainment systems with 8-inch touchscreens that are smart phone savvy. Performance and glitter items like new grille and wheel designs, sequential LED headlights for the Tacoma TRD Pro model are balanced by new exterior cameras that deliver surrounding terrain views for improved off road safety. Sequoia TRD Pro now offers TRD-tuned Fox Racing off road dampers, plus other greasy-side items and an upgraded leather seat interior. The Land Cruiser Heritage Edition, a USA-specific version, goes the opposite way, shedding its chrome, third-row seats and running boards in favor of bronzed BBS wheels and a clean, subtly badged exterior. Without fanfare, Toyota put what may be future crossover product, the TJ Cruiser, on display to gauge reaction. Feel free to let them know what you think. Ford introduced its Super Duty trucks the week before GM’s similar launch. Their new Super Duty features three engines, the venerable 6.2-liter gas engine, now joined by an all-new 7.3-liter V-8 and third-generation 6.7-liter Power Stroke diesel. The newer motors are paired with a Ford-designed and built 10-speed automatic with optional PTO. Features include a new high-flow grille, Pro Trailer Backup Assist, LED headlamps, and improved trailer tow and payload capacity. Nissan’s 2020 Rogue Sport, not available for several months, offers new grille, refreshed exterior styling, and adds high-level safety features: Nissan ProPILOT and Nissan Safety Shield. Together, that provides owners with automatic emergency braking (AEB) with pedestrian detection, rear AEB, lane departure and rear cross traffic alert, radar-based smart cruise control and high beam assist. ProPILOT tech ““is a single-lane “hands-on” driving assistance technology that eases driver workload by reducing the amount of driver acceleration, steering and braking input under certain driving conditions, such as single-lane highway driving,” or semi-autonomy”, the company says. The Nissan Pathfinder Rock Creek Edition adds 18-inch wheels and some interesting, and functional cosmetics like black over-fenders, black-mesh grille and black roof rails, door handles and exterior mirrors. Inside they’ve added two-tone seating with contrast stitching; functionality includes a Best-In-Class 6,000-pound tow rating.

I purchased a 2023 2500hd LTZ DURAMAX in January. Truck drove and handled great until a few days ago. The other day I started feeling the rear end wandering and swaying on me. Anything over 65 is an accident waiting to happen because it can get all over the place. Noticed that if I shake my driver side rear wheel it clicks loudly. Checked lugs and everything else for tightness and everything is tight. Truck now has 25,000 miles it and up until 3 days ago was perfect. Any ideas or insights would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. 20230922_203351_1.mp4

I purchased a 2023 2500hd LTZ DURAMAX in January. Truck drove and handled great until a few days ago. The other day I started feeling the rear end wandering and swaying on me. Anything over 65 is an accident waiting to happen because it can get all over the place. Noticed that if I shake my driver side rear wheel it clicks loudly. Checked lugs and everything else for tightness and everything is tight. Truck now has 25,000 miles it and up until 3 days ago was perfect. Any ideas or insights would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. 20230922_203351_1.mp4

hello gm-trucks commuinty i’m having issues with a smog readiness monitor not completing. any information on this issue would be greatly appreciated. my truck is a 2001 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 with a 5.3L v8 and it’s 4x2. all the readiness monitors complete except the secondary air system causing the truck to fail smog in california. i’ve heard the air pump turn on at cold starts and even replaced the passenger side check valve. also replaced the solenoid that sends vacuum. everything in the secondary air system seems to be operating properly but the monitor won’t complete. i’ve driven 100s of miles and done countless cold starts but no luck. even the smog referee said the system is working properly and i should just drive the truck more. anyone else experience this issue and what did you have to do to complete the monitor? there are no codes stored currently and the truck runs fine. thank you to anyone that helps

I bought a 2023 new body style Silverado 1500 LT the only issue im having is that the passenger seat isn’t electric its a manual, has anyone done the swap from manual to electric ? if so how complicated is it

i just bought a 2001 chevy Silverado 2500hd with 20x10 rims but the tires on it rub i want to keep the rims on it but i don't want my tires rubbing what size tire should i get

Hello everyone! So Im new in the truck world good myself a chevy avalanche 04 for my 18 birthday. It had a ac issue where passenger side would blow hot air. After diagnosis I found out that the blend door actuator was bad so I tried replacing it. I had to take out the passenger side airbag to access it. It was very tight and in the removal process I broke the shaft that controls the door :,(. Now what there isn't enough space in there to just epoxy the shaft back on. Any ideas? Summer is coming up here in so cal so for now ill just bypass the heater core but for future it would be nice to have heating lol. Any help is appreciated.

Hey i'm looking for some help on doing a transmission swap in a 2002 Chevy Silverado Here are the specs of my truck: -2002 Silverado automatic transmission -4x4 -v6 4.3 engine Could someone please let me know if I need to find a transmission with the exact year of (2002). Or will other years interchange with no modifications needed. I want to be able to simply swap them. I am getting mixed feed back from the salvage yards around my area. Most of the are saying I have to get a 2002 transmission and others are saying other years will work just fine. Apparently GM changed the part number each year so it adds the confusion perhaps. There is one salvage yard in my area that has a transmission from a 2004 and they are telling me it will work just fine. They said if anything the fly wheel might not work and they said they will provide the fly wheel with the transmission incase it doesn't fit the flywheel thats currently on my 2002 truck. Thanks for any help someone can provide!

I have done a lot of research in preparation for this mod, and there are not any how to guides on this so I figured I would make one! First things first is the parts list. Below is what is required for this mod. Window (includes regulator): 84819603 GM list is $735. I found mine new on Facebook Marketplace for $150 so do some shopping around or they can be found used on car-part.com for much less but make sure it includes the regulator. Motor and mount assembly (they are sold together): 23490454 GM List is $89.13. Perhaps can be found used cheaper but not a bad price from GM. I got mine from Ebay. Overhead Console with switch: I recommend finding this used because often junkyards leave the harness intact which you will need. I got mine on Ebay. Side benefit the Homelink is plug and play so if your truck didn't come with it like mine you now have it. Rear Window Lower Garnish Molding (Main longer piece): 22817432 Right Rear Window Garnish Molding: 22817430 *These are not required if you are handy with a Dremel Next is the harness and fuse tap I used. This is an aftermarket harness that I modified to extend the length I needed. Universal Power Window Harness: https://amzn.to/3Kz1qyK Micro Fuse Tap: https://amzn.to/47ls08b Once you have gathered your parts contact a local shop to install your window. Next you will need to figure out your trim. There are 2 ways to do this. You can buy the trim from GM or just trim a little off your factory ones. This is the route I took. Just line it up where is should fit, put some painters tape on mark it and with a carful hand just trim it and it looks just like stock. Next you’ll need to mount your motor and regulator assembly. Below are some pics I found online of a factory truck. Once that is all mounted up its time for wiring. Using the Universal Harness and factory switch is fairly easy. Here is a diagram. The GM switch is pinned out just like the aftermarket harness I linked. The factory switch and pigtail should come with the overhead panel just cut off the connector and splice it in. I routed the grounds together and self-tapped them into the truck by the fuse box. The power is ran to the fuse box (with an inline fuse) and tapped into key on power. Depending on your truck you may or may not have some of the options used to tap into. Below is a link to a great website you can poke around and figure out what fuse works best for your truck. https://www.startmycar.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500/info/fusebox Finally run 2 wires back to the motor. I ran mine through the headline and down the passenger rear trim. Once everything is connected you should have a working power rear window! [img]https://i.imgur.com/6dQKvXy.mp4[/img]

IMG_2627.MOV I have a Sierra 1500 with the 6.2L (107k miles) and 10-speed transmission. When I was driving the motor shut off and when I tried to restart the engine the starter would just crank but no fire. I towed it to a mechanic I’ve been seeing for a while. He hasn’t been able to get around to diagnosing the truck but he sent me a video of him trying to start it. The noises are very concerning; I first thought it was due to a failed fuel pump module but now I’m thinking it’s something a lot more expensive anybody have any ideas as to what this problem could be?

Has anyone had their antenna just keep spinning when they tried to take it off?

I need a camper shell for hunting season. I found a couple that are the same color but they are for a 2021 silverado. They are leer and are. Will these on my 2021 sierra? I’m getting mixed messages and getting ahold of are customer service is next to impossible. Has anyone tried it or had success before i drive 3 hours to find out it wont fit. Also if anyone has one they want to get rid of near pa let me know. Bonus if its satin steel metallic. Thank you

Hello all, My Sway bar was hitting my CV axle, as the title says. So I crawled under some trucks at the dealer to see what stock trucks are like and it turns out that the new TB/AT4's have longer end links then my 2020 TB. The new end link has a 3 inch rod vs the 1-3/4 inch OE part. The part number for the longer end link is P/N:85590925

Looking at putting a ranch hand on my 2022 LTZ, has anyone put one on the refresh 22-23 trucks that would have pictures? Can't find any google.