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Found 1,390 results

  1. It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.
  2. Can any give some insight on which wires are connected to which speakers on the green plug. I have attached a picture. There are a total of 10 wires and I’m assuming they are (LF+/-)(RF+/-), (RR+/-), (LR+/-) 12V and ground but do not know which goes to where. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
  3. Good morning everyone, I recently purchased a 2018 GMC Sierra Crew Cab SLT All-Terrain package. I'm personally wanting to install a leveling kit and I believe I've selected one. I've read a lot about leveling kits for 2017-18 trucks and this seems like a great kit. However, there isn't many reviews on this product by ReadyLift. The appeal of this lift is the UCA replacements and the <2" height it allows. I'm wanting to go with 305/55/20 or 285/60/20 tires with my stock AT wheels and I want as much clearance possible. I found maybe 2-3 members on here with this lift and I'll quote them below. My question is, will this work with my All-Terrain package? In the description of the kit it states, "Will not work on Z71 packaged vehicles with factory Rancho® struts." Yet on ReadyLift's website, there is nothing supporting that statement. Does anyone have any information or review for this kit? Thanks!
  4. Can anyone tell me if my silverado is equipped with remote start?
  5. While driving my 2014 Silverado, I never have a problem if I accelerate quickly. However, there has been skipping/sputtering when I coast or slowly accelerate. This is not a clicking, loud knocking sound like I see most describe on here... Anyone have any idea what it could be? Thanks in advance! If needed I can try and video the sound later on today.
  6. Thom Cannel: Article & Photos Zane Merva: Photos GM-Trucks.com June 24th, 2019 This could be the shortest Chevrolet truck review in history. If that's what you came for, you can stop reading right now. But if you're curious... Why is the 3.0L Duramax so awesome? Because unless you’re building a custom lifestyle truck or simply using it for basic tasks you’ll be no doubt upgrade to more powerful engine when you buy your next Silverado or Sierra. That means either the famous 6.2-liter V-8 gas engine or this all-new 3.0L Duramax Turbo-diesel 3.0-liter diesel with its 277 HP, 460 torques and 9,300 pound towing capacity. If your truck is a lifestyle statement—and we have zero problems with that—this may not apply to you. That is, unless you’re from Texas where a better engine is as necessary as church on Thursday, guns, and football. Our vote, as the upgrade cost is the same $2,495 as for the 6.2L gas engine, is the new 3.0-liter inline six-cylinder diesel. It has the same torque, better fuel economy (we expect) and even has a sweet engine exhaust sound. Chevrolet invited GM-Trucks to Bend, Oregon to test the 2020 Silverado and it’s new diesel engine. Don’t worry if you just bought a 2019 Silverado—there are no huge differences for 2020; the truck was only released a few months ago. So, for 2020 Chevy adds adaptive cruise control and the amazing 15-view camera technology that includes “invisible trailer” from the Heavy Duty segment. We covered that. For 2020 Chevrolet offers a diversity of engines. There are, in addition to the new diesel, the 310 horsepower / 348 lb-ft 2.7-liter DI turbocharged I-4 with an 8-speed transmission, and two legendary small block gas engines, the 5.3L and 6.2L. In Model Year 2020 the 5.3L makes 355 horsepower (265 kW) and 383 lb-ft of torque (519 Nm) coupled to an 8-speed transmission, the 6.2L is SAE-certified to deliver 420 HP (313 kW) and 460 lb-ft of torque (623 Nm). It is paired with GM’s 10-speed transmission, which couples perfectly with GM’s DFM cylinder deactivation system. Hey, you don’t think you can run on two cylinders with an ordinary transmission, do you? According to Chevrolet the new diesel motor will be available in LT, RST, LTZ and High Country trim levels. The 5.3L gas engine is standard in LTZ and High Country models and available on LT, RST and Trail Boss. The 6.2L gas gasser is available more trim levels for 2020. Both engines will be built at General Motors’ Tonawanda Engine Plant in Buffalo, New York.” Not mentioned is the carryover 4.3L engine aimed at fleet owners. We arrived in Oregon to 80°F heat and blue skies, then were fed and watered, and set off on different tasks. We can’t talk about the HD trucks and their massive towing capacity for a couple of days. We were offered an incredibly deep-dive into the new engine, and a mileage competition featuring the new 3.0-liter diesel engine to start, however. Winning a comp is cool, but not realistic when you have a limited time with a vehicle in the first place. That said, other journalists did take the time to compete and Sunday’s winning mileage was in the 34-36 mpg range and then blown away by Monday’s 46 mpg. That, friends, is some serious hypermiling! However we still do not have official EPA certified mileage. That’s “To Come”. If you haven’t read much about the 3.0, here’s a modestly deep dive into its guts. First, the whole engine is state-of-the-art, aluminum head and block with thin steel cylinder sleeves and seven main bearings for the crankshaft. Combustion processes were among the driving forces underpinning design theory, so the cylinder head is essentially flat and the bowl-shaped pistons have zero relief cuts for the valves. That was important for efficiency. Simulation, and single-cylinder engine studies showed that having very vertical valves would not only allow a simpler bowl shape in the pistons, but that very shape would allow inlet-generated swirl to be maximized at every point. Swirl is produced and governed by dual intake runners feeding each cylinder. Oh, the ceramic glow plugs gave GM the highest compression ratio consistent with power and emissions, as well as allowing ignition to -22°F without a block heater. FYI, most of the engine development and engineering, as well as primary calibration took place in Turin, Italy. That’s GM’s center of diesel excellence. To ensure a quiet engine, emissions that more than meet standards, and deliver fuel economy, GM finalized an injection pressure of 2,500 bar (36,500 psi) through solenoid injectors capable of up to ten injections per combustion cycle. Early injections are primarily used to build in-cylinder pressure smoothly to abate diesel clatter. Later injections can be used for power and to keep the catalyst working within specified temperatures (those injections, sometimes caused by a catalyst cooled by highway driving, do negatively affect fuel economy but maintain emissions specifications). There’s a single close-coupled VGT turbo, for now, which indicates a possibility for later development of greater power and torque. Packaging to the “chemical factory” is as tight as could be manufactured. What we really haven’t talked about is the decision for an I-6 engine, versus a V-type. Obviously, six cylinders are longer than three, or even four. This slightly under-square engine delivers two things that a V design does not: smoothness and less side force. A V-type engine necessarily produces some side thrust, which is one of the reasons that Ford’s new 3.0L is made of CGI or Compacted Graphite Iron. In contrast, by using a robust, deep skirt design, Chevrolet and other divisions have an all-aluminum block, saving weight. Some of the extra length is minimized by packaging chain driven shafts at the rear. If you’ve never driven, or better yet heard an inline six, they’re smooth, likely the smoothest engine you’ve driven and with a unique sound. Both delivered by six evenly spaced exhaust pulses. The last I-6 engine GM produced was the gasoline Atlas LL8/Vortec 4200 used in Chevy Trailblazer, GMC Envoy, Buick Rainier, Olds Bravada, Isuzu Ascender and Saab 9-7X. ) Note that Detroit Diesel has produced an inline-6 since 1980 that displaces 11-14L.) Before highway driving, we did a walk-around. The GM-exclusive Durabed is impressive, and hard-coated for scuff resistance. Chevrolet says it’s made up of several sections instead of 1-2 deep drawn pressings. This provides owners with more cargo volume. As Chevrolet (and GMC) will tell you, it’s made of several varieties of High Strength Steels, so they claim it’s more dent and penetration-resistant than Ford’s aluminum bed. Inside the bed are 12 fixed tie-down points and nine moveable points, which has been a big hit with owners. Plus there’s that available power up/down tailgate, a power outlet and task lighting. A somewhat unnoticed feature is relocating the bed lights to flank the CHMSL on the roof edge. A couple of other things that are important are the corner steps and bed steps. They’re made for size 13 steel-toed boots and hold up to 500 pounds. We then drove the truck on the highway and on two-lane roads. Our first impression was of the powerful engine sound, followed by impressive torque. Electric motor type torque. Smooth power available at the lowest of engine speeds. Engine noise isn’t intrusive but like the torque, off the line it lets you know it’s there. However, with an open hood you hardly know it’s a diesel, it is that quiet. Even a random enthusiast who had been researching the new 3.0L Duramax and stopped us at a boat launch had to ask if it was a Diesel. This is simply unlike the larger Duramax and any other light duty diesel on the market. Something we’ll get into in our Heavy Duty story is the reason there’s a 10-speed transmission. If you think about the power band of a diesel engine, here delivering all of its 460 lb-ft of torque at just 1,500 rpm and holding strong to about 4,000 rpm, that’s significantly different than the power band of a gas engine. Thus, the 10-speed maximizes power and fuel economy—and every automaker has to deliver fuel economy, low CO2 and clean emissions. We have much more to come. For instance, we need to see if tow ratings are realistic, if its EPA fuel economy beats Ford’s 30Highway/22City/25Combined and how well it lives up to the Find New Roads slogan in real world driving under every condition we can discover.
  7. Hey all, I just received my complete set of 5100's for my 2015 Silverado 1500 LT. I'm looking to level the front with the back using only the adjustments on the front struts (leaving the stock blocks, etc...). Presently the struts are on the stock setting (1 of 4 notches). My question is, which notch should I set the circlip on, to get the front level with the back? My truck is mainly a city driver, so I'm not worried about nose lift when towing and such. Just want the nose level with the rear during my city driving. Your help is appreciated. Notch 1 - Stock Notch 2 - 0.75" (19mm) Average Lift Notch 3 - 1.26" (32mm) Average Lift Notch 4 - 1.85" (46mm) Average Lift Thanks, Ant
  8. I'm interested in a quick read of the room. How does everyone feel about the news that GM is moving in the direction of an battery electric truck? Does the brand it's sold under influence if you'd be interested? Are you ready to buy one now or do you think we should wait it out? Thanks for your opinions!
  9. The end of December, I noticed a small amount of oil on the garage floor under the front of rear differential of my 2WD, 2019 High Country. It appeared to be a pinion seal leak. The Dealership concurred and ordered a new front yoke and pinion seal. Today, the Dealership called and informed me that GM did not have the parts so they sent a Complete new rear Differential as a replacement!! Now they need my truck for a Full day to swap rear ends. Appears to be an EXPENSIVE way to replace a $10 part, but GM must know Best!?
  10. Hello all, I’m sorry if this isn’t posted in the right section but I couldn’t find any results for the problem I’m having. So a little bit of back story.... I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 2wd with 180,xxx miles on it, It’s a good old girl. I recently had a lot of work done to the front end, new rack and pinion assembly, new coils, shocks, spindles, new ucas, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends. I had a shop install on the parts because I don’t have a driveway to work in right now. All the parts replaced were stock oem parts, so well worn out. The truck rides great now much more controlled and steering feel is firm. But I noticed there is about an inch of free play in the steering wheel ( no resistance, no moving the wheel in the free play). What do y’all think it could be? I checked the intermediate steering shaft for play and it is moving with the u-joint at the rack and pinion. Can the gear box be adjusted? Thank y’all for your insight. I don’t just want to fire the parts cannon in vain. Again thank you for all the help!
  11. Hi, I have 2 questions. One, I want to do the HD Front end conversion on my 2007 NNBS Silverado1500. I know what I need, and I have decided on the 2011-2013 HD grill and bumper. I have gone on line and seen some people go with the 2007-2010 HD hood and some people go with the 2011-2013 HD hood. Would any one know the difference or if one fits better onto the 1500 truck? And does anyone know how to install the bumper? And the second question was, How can I convert the truck into full electric mode? I have manual windows and no power locks. My truck is extended cab and I would wish for the back windows to work as well. Or does anyone have a really good video on what parts I need and how to do it step by step? I am by no means a mechanic but i do work on my trucks here and there on small things. Thanks in advanced!
  12. Figured I'd start this thread as a place holder for now. Will add mods as I go. My truck is a 2016 4.3 Chevrolet Silverado regular cab standard box 4x4. Purchased in June of 2019. Since then, I have added: -Folding tonneau cover -catch can -tinted windows -removed lower portion of valance -black plastidip lettering -red tow hooks -painted mirror caps -light smoke on tail lights -aftermarket air filter Future plans include: -2 inch level -33 inch tires -Black bear tune -Colour matched bumpers/handles -Airaid MIT -Tint front turn signals -Throttle controller -Rear wheel well liners -Upgrade to 8 inch oem stereo -D5S 35w Hids How it sat when I got it:
  13. Chevy passed out a 2019 Silverado information book to journalists during this week's media drive. I'm working on scanning the entire thing and sharing it here. There's a lot of information packed into this flip book. I thought the most interesting was the engine line up and an AFM vs DFM diagram. This is the best comparison blowout diagram I've seen so far. Here's the four pages related to the engines.
  14. I have a 99 silverado 2500. Has middle fold down seat. I want to put center console and seats with arm rests in like tahoes had. What years and seat would work. I want cloth seats.
  15. This diode installation allows all of the lights to remain on simultaneously when the high beams are activated on GM vehicles. The diode is super easy to install, you need $2 and 10 minutes. 9 of those minutes will be spent congratulating yourself.After diode placement your lights will function as follows: In auto mode- whenever your lights come on automatically the fogs will be on also. Low Beams & Fogs- Only Low Beams & Fogs will be on High Beams- Low Beams, Fog Lights, & High Beams will all be on (normally by default) The vehicle turns off the fogs when in high beam mode, but this diode solves that. MAKE SURE THE SIDE OF THE DIODE WITHOUT THE STRIPE IS IN THE 10 PIN. The diode allows electricity to travel in only one direction.
  16. I have had a problem with my remote keyless entry system on my 2001 Chevy Silverado for at least a year now. I have not been able to unlock or lock my vehicle from any distance, rarely only within a few feet, and even then it is intermittent. I bought the correct replacement key fob, and through several long attempts I was able to program it to my truck, and it has the same problems as the original key fob, which I did try to re-program as well. I am quite certain the problem is due to the wireless receiver in the truck, however I find limited and varying information on where it is located to diagnose or replace it. I went to a Chevrolet dealer earlier and was told it would cost $150 for them to just look at it. I am capable of doing many repairs myself and would like to know if anyone could help find where the malfunctioning component is, or if there are any other tests of some sort that would help me. Thanks.
  17. Hey everybody, Has anybody come across a good reliable website for OEM genuine GM parts? I have seen many different websites online claiming to sell GM parts direct from General Motors. However, I have looked further into these websites & have found many bad reviews relating to them. Along with people who have had their money stolen by these websites. I figured somebody out there must know a rock solid website to order OEM GM parts from. Any suggestions would be a big help for many people! --- My specific reason for this question is because of a off-roading accident with my 16 Silverado 2500HD WT. My air deflector & front bumper were damaged & require replacement. I figured if i'm going to replace the front bumper, I might as well replace it with the OEM front bumper equipped with fog light ports. However, many components are required & it will all cost a bit. The last thing I want to do is get scammed by a hack website or read about more people who have gotten scammed. Thanks!
  18. I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.
  19. I was hoping y’all could help me on my decision. I have a 2019 custom trail boss 5.3 with AFM 6 speed. I called the local dealership here and asked how my warranty would be effected if I disable the AFM. They told me “as long as that tune didn’t cause the damage of whatever i bring the truck in for all is well.” So they recommended me to a local tuner here in town which was surprising. I called him and he said to disable my AFM it would cost around 500. I do know about the range device but I don’t want to to deal with the battery issues it can cause if you mistakenly leave it plugged in. My other option is the hand held tuners such as a diablo. I have zero experience with them but I am going to put in a cold air intake and flow master 44 exhaust in the future. Would my best bet be the Diablo tuner to disable the AFM and use it to adjust my truck to my other mods or go with the professional tuner?
  20. I purchased my truck in February of 2016, and used Apple CarPlay from day one, and never had an issue. Fast forward two years to an Android phone. I plug in, expecting the same easy set up as my work truck (2018 Silverado), and nothing happens. I was confused, as I remember when I bought the truck it was advertised as supporting Apple Carplay/Android Auto. After checking through several forums and MyLink version numbers, I realized it needed an update. Called the dealer and set an appointment, but when I arrived, I was told this was a "customer pay" update, (if I remember correctly, as of April 2017?) and it would cost me ≈$50 to regain the functionality I purchased with the truck. Anyone else have this issue, and if so, what was the result?
  21. Hey guys, I posted in the giant thread about my fix but I'm sure it's already gotten lost. I think this is important to at least have floating somewhere for someone to search. Symptoms: At 60-70mph I was experiencing a severe shake/vibration. I could usually push out of it at 70+ but it was still noticeable. It was like clock work as soon as I hit up around 60mph. Solution: I got my truck fully inspected before purchase and they noted the vibration. Mechanic showed me a dent in the drive shaft and general wear on the shaft. His recommendation was to replace it. I ordered the part online. The new shaft came fully assembled with new Ujoints and the yoke to slide in. Installation was very easy. I have driven 100 miles since installation and I have ZERO vibration. I hit 60mph and it is very smooth. So the culprit could be the shaft the ujoint or the yoke. Once again this fix worked for me and it may not be the same issue on your truck but I had pretty bad vibrations and they are GONE. Good luck!! *NOTE* I have no warranty so that is why I attempted a fix on my own. I'm sure this problem will still crop up as peoples warranty starts to expire.
  22. Recently replaced the emblem on the grill, with an illuminated one. Selling both (as a set) my original front emblem and the NEW tailgate emblem (that came with my illuminated one). For these two BRAND NEW $160. Being told that the tailgate emblem should work on 2014-18, and the one for the grill should work on 2016-18. $100+s/h.
  23. So, not sure if I'm the only one who has this issue at 130,061 miles but for some reason one night my truck was shifting pretty harsh, keep in mind this is the first time it's done this. I was far from home so I just drove home because I didn't have the money to have it towed nor was I going to leave it out here for looters to break into. Drove it home and just down the street from my house the truck just did not want to drive. It wouldn't go into Drive or Reverse, had to push her heavy ass home. Next day I decided to see if she'll budge and long behold it actually went into gear and I was able to move it where I usually park it. I did not take it for a drive afraid it would happen again. Anyone know what could've caused it to just stop going into gear and then now it will. Seems odd to me.
  24. Did you know you can upgrade your gauge cluster in your 2014-2020 Silverado or Sierra? We recently did just that on our 2019 Silverado LTZ which came from the factory with a "mid-level" gauge cluster. Click here to read our review of the White Automotive and Media Gauge Cluster Upgrade https://www.gm-trucks.com/white-automotive-upgrade-heres-how-to-add-a-digital-gauge-cluster-to-your-silverado-or-sierra/
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