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*SEE BELOW FOR UPDATE* So, after hunting on the internet with a rhetorical shotgun for skid plates, I decided to do some research into OE parts. Here is what I found. for the metal skid plate (splash guard) from the bumper to the first crossmember, the part number is 86803306. Can confirm through ACDelco’s website that it is metal. I’m not sure what kind. When shopping through GM dealers, DO NOT INPUT YOUR VIN. I’m currently battling it out with Chevy Parts Pros and told them to pound sand if they won’t send me my part. Does NOT FIT DURAMAX OR 2.7L MODELS UNLESS YOUR ORIGINAL PLATE IS p/n 84125967. This plate is factory on vehicles with “enhanced tow”. for the steering gear plate, part number is 23385004. It is 1/8” steel, I believe. for the transfer case, part number is 84699480. This shield spans the gap between the trans crossmember, and another behind the transfer case, uses (4) m8 x 1.25 x34mm bolts and u-nuts to secure into place. Fits 2019-2025 models, 4x4 only. It’s powdercoated 1/8” steel. you can get the steering gear shield and the transfer case shield in a set through GM accessories under “off-road skid plates set”, but I found it cheaper to order some off-brand bolts/u-nuts and get the parts individually. cheers! ******************************************** My parts finally arrived. 86803306 does in fact fit in place of the plastic shield, and is made of the same material as the trail boss skid right behind it covering the steering gear. I do believe it’s either aluminum or mild steel. I took the air deflector off the bottom of the bumper to mimic a trail boss. The plate bolted right up and I had zero issues with install. Took 10 minutes with a ratchet, extension, and socket.

Hey all, first post and hoping this can help out. As many of you know and or finding out, the 24's and up are apparently a new style Firewall Grommet system leading into the truck from behind the battery. But not to worry, this will hopefully be the clearest new how to so far without a youtuber making a video of this. The truck now, instead of having a nipple coming from the firewall grommet on the engine bay side, is now a plastic bezel. The nipple can be located from under the dash still, however, and is still just as easy as an install as before. Pic 1 is from the engine bay. You can see the channel where the wire will exit/enter the truck. Pic 2 is from inside the truck and what is looks like if you peel the grommet back, which does not need to be done because then you'll need to replace the rubber around the grommet to around the plastic shroud which is not the easiest thing to do. Just use an exacto #1 and cut a plus from the inside of the truck in the nipple. Pic one shows where the wire will exit. Pic 3 shows a 4ga wire in it. It fits 4ga wire really well. No sure about 2 or 0... you may have to trim the nipple off then just make the plus/X cut bigger. I also did not need to remove the battery to do any of this. Just work from mid engine with a ladder/step stool. Not the side of the truck. Step 1. Take out the multifunction power supply converter box and bracket that is located behind the glove box and bolted to the kick panel right underneath the firewall grommet. The two tabs holding this box in need to be pulled towards you (the rear of the truck) and slid up. They will be blocked by the A/C fan I believe it is, but nevertheless cannot be pulled all the way up enough. Carefully pull it out. You'll have to finagle it a bit, but the box will come out. This is the only way to access the second 10mm nut that's on the stud holding the bracket in place. You do not need to remove the wire harness. I didn't. Remove both 10mm nuts with an extended socket. Step 2. I used an exacto like #1 blade and sliced a plus sign in the power wire pass through nipple. Step 3. Electrical tape a long zip tie to the wire. Use a little soapy water or some lubricant (I used just a little petroleum jelly) to slide the power wire through the hole. I went from the inside of the truck and pushed it to the outside (inside the engine bay). Continue install as you would with all the other older amp/power wire install guides out there. ...Special Notes... You may need to remove the plastic cover kickplate that is plastic welded to the floorboard part of the carpet placeholder cover. I did this by removing the fuse box cover plate then removing the 8mm screws. This allows you to pull the panel backwards and pop out the kickplate. The floorboard part must be pulled upwards. Do not try to separate these two pieces at the seam! They are plastic welded together. For another good run through check out here: https://www.trailboss.org/threads/firewall-grommet-change-in-the-2024-lt-trail-boss-for-power-wire.2109/ Hope my photos are more helpful.

***UPDATE*** Engine tick was diagnosed as potential wrist pin or retaining clip failure. Severe scoring found on wall of cylinder number two. Engine is being replaced and should be up and running by the middle of next week. The rattle was diagnosed as torque converter engagement at low vehicle speed, lock-up with DFM engaged. About 5th gear. They have another 2024, 5.3/10-speed (4,000 miles) that rattles in the same fashion. They’re thinking a software update to disable DFM at low speeds would be a likely fix (does not do it when all 8 cylinders are engaged). Further info will be provided when engine is replaced; a GM engineer is going to pay the dealer a visit for my truck to see if adjustments to the programming is necessary. ***uploaded this linked video for TCC sound*** Truck has 570 miles on it. It’s a 2024, 5.3, MHT 10 speed, crew cab short bed work truck. The other day, I was coasting (between 15 and 25 mph) and heard this loud, repetitive metal knock or tap sound under very light throttle. Sounded like it was coming from the engine bay, through the floor, approximately center or slightly to the right from driver seat POV. It came and went when I was very lightly engaging/disengaging the throttle pedal. It does not happen when I’m accelerating or when the drivetrain is under load. This morning, on start up, I hear this unusual metal “clack” that seems random in interval, but consistent nonetheless, at idle. My coworker drove beside me, and through the usual DFM noise, he heard the metal “knock” or “tap”, very loud, from the engine bay, while cruising and very light throttle. When I got to the dealer to drop it off, I couldn’t replicate any of the issues. Of course. I sent these videos to the service advisor, because he was stumped like I was.

The purpose of this post is to make aware an issue between trailers with Hydrastar brakes and 2024 GMC/Chevy trucks.

I have a 2024 Sierra HD on order and questioning fit for a truck bed cap. My truck will have a small fairing that will contain the bed camera and 3rd brake light. The fairing looks to extend mostly across the full length of the rear window and extends 3-4 inches back from the traditional roof line which then overhangs the rear window slightly. Has anyone installed a truck cap in this configuration? I'm curious how the truck cap fits around this fairing. Pictures would be excellent.

If anyone is experiencing any sort of radio glitches and want to reset it until you have a service appointment, or just reset it in general for some sort of glitch, there is a radio reset you can perform yourself that does not involve disconnecting the negative battery terminal. With the key on engine off or engine on, press and hold the mute/phone hang up button on your steering wheel for 15 seconds. This will initiate a radio reset. Not sure if this has been mentioned or shared anywhere yet. I have not tried this with 19-22 trucks, nor have I tried this on 2022.5+up with the old small radio, but this will work on the people with the new radio 13.4" IOK.

Not sure if anyone else has run into this but it seems like the aftermarket vendors don't list much for the 2024's yet. Did a little digging on the OEM cover options and found in the soft covers the part for a 24 is the same for a 20-23 truck. I took a leap of faith and ordered an Extang Trifecta ALX for my 2024 3500 with an 8' bed. It fits perfectly and all the hardware for the latches fit like they should. Super easy install. Figured i would put this out there in case anyone else was looking.