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Showing results for tags 'LTZ'.
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Hey all, first post and hoping this can help out. As many of you know and or finding out, the 24's and up are apparently a new style Firewall Grommet system leading into the truck from behind the battery. But not to worry, this will hopefully be the clearest new how to so far without a youtuber making a video of this. The truck now, instead of having a nipple coming from the firewall grommet on the engine bay side, is now a plastic bezel. The nipple can be located from under the dash still, however, and is still just as easy as an install as before. Pic 1 is from the engine bay. You can see the channel where the wire will exit/enter the truck. Pic 2 is from inside the truck and what is looks like if you peel the grommet back, which does not need to be done because then you'll need to replace the rubber around the grommet to around the plastic shroud which is not the easiest thing to do. Just use an exacto #1 and cut a plus from the inside of the truck in the nipple. Pic one shows where the wire will exit. Pic 3 shows a 4ga wire in it. It fits 4ga wire really well. No sure about 2 or 0... you may have to trim the nipple off then just make the plus/X cut bigger. I also did not need to remove the battery to do any of this. Just work from mid engine with a ladder/step stool. Not the side of the truck. Step 1. Take out the multifunction power supply converter box and bracket that is located behind the glove box and bolted to the kick panel right underneath the firewall grommet. The two tabs holding this box in need to be pulled towards you (the rear of the truck) and slid up. They will be blocked by the A/C fan I believe it is, but nevertheless cannot be pulled all the way up enough. Carefully pull it out. You'll have to finagle it a bit, but the box will come out. This is the only way to access the second 10mm nut that's on the stud holding the bracket in place. You do not need to remove the wire harness. I didn't. Remove both 10mm nuts with an extended socket. Step 2. I used an exacto like #1 blade and sliced a plus sign in the power wire pass through nipple. Step 3. Electrical tape a long zip tie to the wire. Use a little soapy water or some lubricant (I used just a little petroleum jelly) to slide the power wire through the hole. I went from the inside of the truck and pushed it to the outside (inside the engine bay). Continue install as you would with all the other older amp/power wire install guides out there. ...Special Notes... You may need to remove the plastic cover kickplate that is plastic welded to the floorboard part of the carpet placeholder cover. I did this by removing the fuse box cover plate then removing the 8mm screws. This allows you to pull the panel backwards and pop out the kickplate. The floorboard part must be pulled upwards. Do not try to separate these two pieces at the seam! They are plastic welded together. For another good run through check out here: https://www.trailboss.org/threads/firewall-grommet-change-in-the-2024-lt-trail-boss-for-power-wire.2109/ Hope my photos are more helpful.
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(2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ) It is intermittent but as soon as I plug my phone into the truck via USB-C cable and connect to CarPlay, eventually during my drive when I try to adjust my volume it is super delayed to register the volume change. After a couple minutes the entire dash goes black and restarts. Almost like the infotainment system freezes. No idea what could be causing this and there isn’t anything out there regarding my issue. Any ideas? -
This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors]. THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off. The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now. NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan. I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either, as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it. ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS. NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP! I will include here more info from my notes: Tools: Autel MaxiSys DVOM multimeter various jumper wires Mini oscilloscope THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40] Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it! 8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65 IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough -
I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ (very high milage - 219,000) Runs great and still has some power left under the hood. For the most part, it is in great shape. It have a strange noise when acceleration or getting up to about 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It only does it under load, so it is hard to find where the noise is coming from. In the attached video, it takes place at 12-18s and then again at 40-46s. It is hard to hear because of the wind noise, but I can't figure out how to isolate the noise any better. If anyone has any ideas, I would sure appreciate the input. The water pump was just replaced, and so was the alternator, along with the tensioner pulley. I admit my limited knowledge under the hood, but I am willing to learn and fix it, if I can. https://youtu.be/PctCm6Ai09Y
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Looking at putting a ranch hand on my 2022 LTZ, has anyone put one on the refresh 22-23 trucks that would have pictures? Can't find any google. -
Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is. -
Can somebody with a loaded 2022 (or 2021) 2500HD 6.6 Gas LT/LTZ (or similar with the options below) post their payload and GVWR? My wife and I are looking at ordering a loaded 2022 gas 2500HD LT with the Z71 sport package, convenience and safety packages, 5th wheel package, leather bucket seats, sunroof, extra altnernator/battery, etc (pretty much every box checked). The GVWR will be 10,6500#'s, and I'm guessing with it fully loaded it will probably have a payload around 3,100? But I'm curious if anyone already has one or at least very similar what your payload ended up being. Thanks! -
Does anyone have a set of 2018 Ltz Led taillights for sale with the 3' harness? I am looking to swap them onto my 2015 chevy silverado 1500. Any help is appreciated in locating a set.
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Welcome to my build! Started with a 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4wd 5.3L, which I bought with 9k miles on her in August of 2020. Got a crazy good deal on it, justified me driving to Georgia from Houston to pick it up. It even came with the Ranch Hand front bumper on it already, other than that she was stock. Little bit of background on my past trucks, I've been fortunate to own quite a few: 07 JK Wrangler, 08 Silverado 1500 LT Z71, 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71, 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT w/ 6.2L, 2016 Denali 2500 Duramax, 2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, and finally my 2019 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71. I also have my 2015 ZL1 Camaro for a little bit of fun on the side, my wife has gone off to German side and is rocking her Porsche Cayenne. So here's the current list of mods: 4" Zone Lift kit w/ Fox rear shocks 35x11.50's Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock 20's Front and back Ranch Hand bumpers Hooker Blackheart Cat-back exhaust utilizing factory dual tips K&N Series 63 cold air intake Rough Country Automatic drop down steps Camlocker Tool box Front windows tinted to match back factory tint Front windshield tint strip Chevy All-Weather floor liners Stubby antenna Just went on a shopping spree of sorts and this is what I've got on order: Boost auto parts auto fog mod Putco Blade LED Tailgate Light Bar w/ Putco wiring harness All LED bulbs; replacing turn signals, license plate lights, and reverse lights. And the GRAND finale, King 2.5 PRS coilovers The list of things to come in the near future: High Country cluster from White Audio and Media, had their Tahoe cluster in my 2017 and it was fantastic! Waiting to order the rear King Resi PRS shocks until my checkbook bounces back a little bit. Lol Going to be putting on several LED light bars and maybe a pod or two, going to do my best to blend them into the Ranch Hands and make them as non conspicuous as possible. I'm strongly considering doing a Dyno tune w/ Kooks long tubes as well. Going to be doing ceramic tint all the way around. Limo on back windows and back glass, 15% on front windows, and 35% on the front windshield. I've got a drop in plastic bed liner that drives me crazy, so I'll more than likely go ahead and get the bed sprayed. Things I'm considering: Looking into changing up the rims and trying to clear 37's when the time comes for new tires. Blacking out the badges? Still not sold on this one... Turbo or a supercharger kit? This one would be way down the line though. Anything else that catches my attention, let me know if you can come up with anything! Here is the truck from stock:
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Looking to buy a LTZ grill (Picture Shown Below) been looking through eBay and no luck. Got a 16 Silverado and getting tired of the black plastic.
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I THOUGHT THEY STILL MAKE IT!!? NEEDS REINTRODUCTION!!? SADLY!!??? I GOOGLED IT!! -
new to the forum i'm seeking some advise i have a 2016 suburban ltz with magnetic ride a few days ago i noticed it felt like it was bottoming out when driving down the road started reading up on it and people say when you go over 65k miles on them suspension gives out well mine has 91k on clock but what has me baffled is that there are no service warnings popping up on dashboard has anyone experienced this before any help is greatly appreciated before i go shelling out any cash
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This weekend someone slammed my passenger door probably to hard in my opinion. Not sure if this is the cause of the problem but the issue did start soon after. The Window and mirror lost power first intermittently, now completely. I checked the fuse and also didn’t see anything obvious as far as wires being loose or broken from the harness. Any suggestions or recommendations for a fix would be greatly appreciated. -
From the album: 2015 2500 HD w/ BFG KO2 285/65/R20
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From the album: 2015 2500 HD w/ BFG KO2 285/65/R20
2015 2500 HD LTZ w/ Rough Country Leveling Kit and BFG KO2 285/65/R20s. -
Just bought this 2017 LTZ Z71 Had dealer put on 6 inch lift and 35" tires and rims with fender flares and running 4' tubes Full warrantee I may add. -
2017 Silverado 1500 6.2 LTZ Z71 Midnight Edition
NemesisC5 posted a gallery image in General/Off Topic
From the album: 2017 Silverado 1500 Midnight Edition Z71 LTZ Black / Black
2017 Silverado 1500 6.2 LTZ Z71 Midnight Edition * Roll-N-Lock Bed Cover * Custom 10" Sub Box w/Storage * Nitto G2's 305/50/20's * GM Performance 3.5" Exhaust (made by Corsa) * To Be Continued... -
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Chevy's new 8-speed transmission for up-level trims and LED lighting are among the biggest news. HID headlights standard on WT trims, and LED headlights for High Country also are surprising. Here's the full details of the important stuff in bullet form. Full details of 2016 Silverado Advanced lighting is focus of exterior redesign HID lights are standard on WT, LED fog lights standard on LT Z71, and LED headlights are standard on LTZ and up trims. Each trim level has it's own grill: WT = Chome horizontal grille, with black inserts : LT & LTZ = all chrome : High Country =Chrome with unique inserts and body colored bumper All trim levels feature LED running lights, parking lights, and turn signals. LTZ, LTZ/Z71, and High Country feature full LED lighting, from headlights to taillamps CarPlay compatible at launch, Android Auto will come later via software update Forward Collision Alert, Lane Keep Assist, and IntelliBeam high bean assist are options New remote locking tailgate available Wireless phone charging variable on LT and LTZ double cab and all crew cab models High Country avaliable with power articulating running baords 8-speed transmission standard on all 6.2L engines, and 5.3L engines with LTZ and up trim levels. We'll be driving the all new 2016 Sierra and Canyon Diesel in just a few weeks. More information on the 2016 Sierra should be out later this week. -
From the album: 2014 Silverado LTZ
1.5" Level kit -
© Matt Stevens 2014
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© Matt Stevens 2014
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© Matt Stevens 2014
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© Matt Stevens 2014
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