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Found 94 results

  1. What is the average repair cost for a fuel pump sending unit and float. On a 1998 Suburban 2500. Parts and labor included??
  2. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf
  3. I have a 1997 chevy suburban 4wd and while in 4wd it was making a loud clanging noise when accelerating in 4wd hi or 4wd lo. Anyways everything underneath was tight and no play. I couldn't figure it out. It has the dash 2wd 4wd hi and 4wd lo electric switch it wasn't flashing while in 4wd hi or low and you could hear an engagement sound when 4wd selected. I thought it maybe it was the front crown and pinion gear missing a tooth. I took it to the mechanic and it was the 4wd actuator! I guess it was gimped up and engaging and disengaging while in 4wd and making a horrible clanging noise. Anyways I replaced the actuator myself a few years ago (which was possibly the easiest repair ever) but the 4wd light was flashing and it wasn't engaging at that time. Anyways it cost me a fair bit more to have a mechanic diagnose and then replace the actuator but if it happens again I'll know what it is. Also I may be able to help someone else searching online for an answer. It's a fairly cheap fix to do yourself and super simple to do. About $60 from 1aauto! Hope this helps someone out.
  4. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  5. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  6. Hey everyone, As the title states, I have a 2004 Suburban, 1500 with the 5.3L and it's a 4x4. The AC keeps blowing the 10A fuse. Backstory: A few weeks back the family and I were driving a few hours away in the car. I stopped halfway(but didn't turn off the car) to fill up with gas and grab snacks. When I came back in I noticed the AC wasn't cold, but all the blowers were going and the light was on the dash. I popped the hood and noticed the compressor wasn't going, so I checked the fuses and found that 10amp AC fuse was blown. I replaced it with a 15 amp(only one I had) and finished the drive down. For the rest of the day it kept blowing the fuse, and I eventually worked up to a 30amp fuse in order to make it home. I know that's bad but it was hot and I have a newborn so no AC for 2 hours wasn't really an option. At home, I found this thread(that's pasted below). Seems like the exact same problem, so I went ahead and replaced the AC clutch earlier this week. Mind you everything appears to be working 100% normal. When I pop a new fuse in, the AC pump works and the AC is ice cold. After replacing the AC clutch, it's blowing the fuses again. I'm not really sure where to look or where to start for fixing this issue. It just randomly started happening. Maybe it's a wire that's shorting out? The only semi-consistent thing I notice is that if the car is running, and I put in a new fuse, it won't blow unless I drive it AND put it back in park. Driving for hours its fine. Only once I put it in park it seems to blow then. At my wits end. Any ideas? The only thing I can think is the wiring to the clutch compressor is shorting out somewhere intermittently. Thank you for any suggestions!!
  7. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  8. 2007 suburban k2500. 6.0/4l80e. I have a click when cranked situation no start. Also, power locks cycle every time it’s cranked. If you hold the key in the crank position it’ll click every few seconds. With the key in the on position I’ve had multiple windows roll themselves down, locks cycle, all kinds of dash lights. So far I have replaced the battery, the starter, main power wire from fuse block to battery, starter power wire to battery, I’ve cut the end off the alternator power to battery cable and terminated all these wires with a different style battery clamp. I am bypassing the 175 amp megafuse. All 2 gauge wire. To my knowledge the oem battery cables are shit so I opted to make my own. On the ground side I’ve replaced the chassis ground to battery wire, the engine to battery ground wire, and I’ve added an engine to body ground wire to rule out the. Braided ground strap on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. No blown fuses, I’ve switched the starter relay with another of the same size, and nothing has changed this trucks condition. I’ve tried tilting the steering wheel to see if that would let the truck start and it didn’t. I’m waiting on an ignition switch to come to oreillys this evening. I’m completely lost. I removed the under hood fuse block and inspected it and didn’t see any corrosion on any connectors. I’ve heard there’s some intergrated relay in the fuse block that could be the issue but I have no idea. I just bought this truck knowing it needed a battery and brakes, drove it off a trailer and parked it and went to move it 3 days ago and got this by surprise.
  9. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
  10. My Suburban's sound system has recently gotten blown out. Does anybody know the size for the front and rear door speakers? I'm considering on putting an aftermarket sound system into the SUV.
  11. My Suburban was suddenly overheating whilst driving it. Does anybody know if the '07 Chevy Suburban LT have an electric fan? However, I do know that my '07 Silverado (VortecMax edition) has an electric fan.
  12. Hello first post. I have a 2015 suburban with horrible FM reception. I have replaced the Radio, HMI and antenna booster. no change. I'm hoping to find out if anyone has had this problem and was able to repair. My next attempt will be to use an aftermarket FM window antenna to replace the OEM in glass antenna. Could there be another module causing maybe the control bezel?
  13. Okay so my truck game with accordion style mirrors from the factory. The button on my door shows left for extend, right for retract which works however it says center for fold which does not work. I we have been told by a couple people recently that the mirrors did not fold and extend however they said that it could be reflashed to fold instead of extend. This makes no sense to me. So do the factory mirrors fold and extend?
  14. Hi hello, recently my v8 2001 1500 suburban rear end got destroyed, i have a v6 2004 Silverado 1500 with no motor, i was wondering if i can just swap the rear ends on them, anybody know if it will it work? What could be the problems if i do it and its not compatible???
  15. Took delievery of my new GMC Yukok XL earlier today and had an odd question about the second row windows. Anyone know why the "whole" glass doesn't go down? There's that 3 inch vertial piece at the back that is fixed in place. Only reason I ask is because my buddy's Silverado doesn't have that piece and since they are built similarly why would the Yukon have that obtrusive piece there that takes away from the clean side profile? Love some insight on this, is it merely structural? Cheers, Victor
  16. Hey Guys, wondering which colour combination you think is best for the Suburban/Yukon XLs for exterior and interior? I know colour and taste is subjective but would like to see what everyone has picked! If you can post some pictures of your vehicle that would be awesome. I quite like the iridium metallic or black but still undecided on interior colour. I have a feeling if I go black on black it would feel like I'm driving an airport taxi haha (but it does look really nice though). So post some pictures if you can and why you chose that colour, if not thanks for looking at this thread! Cheers
  17. Hi there, new to the forum here and was hoping to gain some wisom from you folks. I'm in a dilemma and am having a difficult time choosing between the Silverado or the Suburban. I'm currently a paramedic in the great white north and like to go fishing, hunting, mountain biking, etc. The space in both is more than enough for me but I'm wondering which is the better vehicle? Most of the gear I'll be carrying will need to be dry so If I do get a pickup I'll have to add a shell to the back. So the question is: do I buy a suburban or a silverado with a decked out bed (what functionality do I lose going either way)? I'll be daily driving this car/truck so it will need to be a great all rounder (city driving, long road trips, light offroad, driving empty, etc). Do I lose any ground clearance/off road capability if I get the suburban, and do I lose any creature comforts if I get the silverado? Specifically looking at the LT or the Suburban and the LTZ for the Silverado. Bonus question: Do you think its worth upgrading to the GMC lineup? (ex: Yukon XL vs Sierra) They seem pretty similar give or take a few cosmetic things. Would love some insight into this issue. Thanks in advance!
  18. Hi there, new to the forum here and was hoping to gain some wisom from you folks. I'm in a dilemma and am having a difficult time choosing between the Silverado or the Suburban. I'm currently a paramedic in the great white north and like to go fishing, hunting, mountain biking, etc. The space in both is more than enough for me but I'm wondering which is the better vehicle? Most of the gear I'll be carrying will need to be dry so If I do get a pickup I'll have to add a shell to the back. So the question is: do I buy a suburban or a silverado with a decked out bed (what functionality do I lose going either way)? I'll be daily driving this car/truck so it will need to be a great all rounder (city driving, long road trips, light offroad, driving empty, etc). Do I lose any ground clearance/off road capability if I get the suburban, and do I lose any creature comforts if I get the silverado? Specifically looking at the LT or the Suburban and the LTZ for the Silverado. Bonus question: Do you think its worth upgrading to the GMC lineup? (ex: Yukon XL vs Sierra) They seem pretty similar give or take a few cosmetic things. Would love some insight into this issue. Thanks in advance!
  19. Just wanted to share my experience with Anthem Off Road wheels from them messing up my order to the wheel finish coming off not even 2 years later. They market themselves as a rugged America offroad company that stands by their product. Which sold me. Plus I didn’t want to have the same wheels as everyone else. I purchased a set of wheels from them and went ahead and bought tires and TPSM to go with them. The tires I could of got cheaper locally, but then I would have to go to the shop and have them put on. So I opted to pay their higher price for tires so I could get the wheels with tires mounted and balanced, TPMS already installed. All I had to do was bolt them on my truck. Received the wheels. Bolted them on just to find that they didn’t install the TPSM. Had to wait a week for them to ship them to me. Then had to go to a tire shop to have them installed. The shop ended up scratching 3 of my brand new rims. I called and complained about the whole situation and they basically said “well we didn’t recommended that tire shop to you”. I guess they couldn’t realize none of this would of happened if they did their job in the first place and installed the TPSM in the first place. Fast forward 1.5 years and I started noticing the clearcoat coming off one of the wheels. After a month or so all 4 wheels had the clear coat peeling off. I posted a question about the finish coming off on their Facebook page. Another costumer chimed in and said their clear was peeling off also. Then our comments were deleted. I commented again. Again, my comment was deleted. I looked at at their website for the first time since I purchased wheels for them. I noticed they now offer a wheel protection kit that contains cleaners and ceramic coating. This wasn’t offered back when I bought my wheels. Which leads me to believe they have had more than just me complaining about their clear peeling off. Has as anyone else had experience with anthem off road? Regular real customers. Not their “brand ambassadors” which is a new marketing scheme they started where they create a whole group of Social media sales people by offering them their rims for a discounted price. In return those people promote the wheels online and try to push people to buy their sub par wheels. I’m talking real customers using their rims in real life, everyday applications. Thanks
  20. Hey guys long time no see, I've been bouncing this around and want y'all's opinion. I've been looking to make it but a late model Cadillac style tail light for my 99 suburban. I have not been able to find any and was checking to see if any one had find any it made any. I figured pulling the light and vent should give you all the room. Ron
  21. Hey all, well I had actually intended to buy a 2017 Suburban, but ended up buying a new house last year. So after a year delay, I finally have a 2018 that I picked up the first week of November, and boy was it tough to find! Wanted a closeout 2018 Suburban Premier 4x4 with just the 3.42 gears and Adaptive Cruise, and NOT a black interior or exterior. Little did I know that the vast majority of Suburbans in my area would have black interiors the standard 3.08 gearing, and other useless junk that I didn’t want like power running boards, sunroof and DVD stuff, etc., with MSRPs up at $78-80k!!! I finally found TWO identical Burbs in Pepperdust with Cocoa/Dune interiors with just adaptive cruise and 3.42 gears. One had the standard 20” wheels and the other the chrome “SEY” 22” wheels. The one with the 20’s had just been sold, so knowing the potential ride quality and vibration issues with the 22’s, just said to heck with it and went for it and got a great deal, and plus I really loved these particular 22’s. Love it so far. Powertrain: Power is just right with the 5.3L and 3.42 gearing. I don’t find it lacking at all, and it has plenty of giddy up when you really need to get moving. Yeah, the 6-speed gearing is spaced a bit wide. It would be about perfect with at least the 8-speed, but it works just fine. I had a couple of rental Suburbans over the past 2 years, all LT’s with base 3.08 gearing and just found them to be lethargic and you really had to prod them and get kickdowns to get moving. The 3.42’s are just right, and wasn’t going to buy a truck without them. Ride, Handling, & Noise/Vibration: This was really important because of numerous family members that get motion sick. You might think it odd to be going with the Magnetic Ride and 22” wheels, but actually, the Premium Ride suspension with 18” wheels was sooo floaty and had so much body roll and motion that even I got a little motion sick test driving one! My family members would have puked. Lol. So MR was a must for us. Love how there’s virtually no body roll with the MR suspension and how solid it feels. Optimal would have been the MR with 20’s which was perfectly smooth and vibration free, but almost every single Burb Premier in my area has 22” wheel upgrades, so finding one with 20’s and only the specific options I wanted AND with something other than the black interior was asking a bit much. No, the ride is not glass smooth. You feel bumps in the road, but we’re used to firm but compliant European/BMW suspensions, so feeling bumps in the road is okay. The 285/45R22’s are “sporty” but not exactly low profile, so while you do feel bumps, the adaptive damping of the MR suspension keeps things pretty compliant and comfortable, along with the much longer wheelbase than what we’re used to. Yes, it has some of the vibration and body resonance issues, but for the most part it’s minor and well damped and not resonant. It’s only a constant and annoying right at 66 mph, so I just avoid going 66. I think we’ll just ride out the Bridgestones or at least get some mileage out of them, but for sure will eventually replace with the Michelins. I don’t think we’ll need to go down to the 20’s. It’s weird that I find the ride perfectly acceptable, but that the aural sensation of the body resonance/vibration is what I find “harsh” at times. The ride itself is surprisingly decent for 22” wheels, so really just the noise issues from the tires causing vibration to the body. Strange beast, but okay with it for now. Overall Drive: I love how this thing drives. I’m not sure what the secret sauce is yet, but every review I’ve read that said the Suburban drives like a much smaller vehicle than it really is is true. I think it’s one part tight steering with a really nice feel and weight and (shock) even a bit of feedback despite being electric, another part the Magnetic Ride suspension and keeping body roll and motions under control, and who knows what else. The tight turning circle for such a massive vehicle is truly impressive. You’d think it’d take a mile to turn this barge around, but no, it’s surprisingly maneuverable in tight parking lots. It definitely gobbles down the miles like crazy on the highway too. It tracks straight ahead with very little correction needed, and I love the HUD and adaptive cruise. Near following distance works great on multi-lane highways, and then far works great for two lane country roads. Takes so much of the fatigue out of long distance driving. Interior: Went with Cocoa/Dune and 2nd row Captain’s Chairs. I think the materials are nice enough, and while there’s definitely some cheap bits, it’s below the waistline and not stuff you’d typically be looking at and having your hands on. The 2nd row seats have plenty of space. I can “sit behind myself” just fine at 6’3”, although the outboard 3rd row seats definitely aren’t for anybody over 6 feet tall. A selling point of the Suburban to me was the fact that you can actually sit 3 adults across the back row. I also looked at the Traverse, but that center 3rd row seat is really only a half seat, and while we might have been able to get away with it now, a few years from now it’d have been an issue. The overall floorpan of the Suburban was perfect for us, with just the right balance of passenger space while still leaving enough cargo room. Infotainment and Tech stuff: We traded my wife’s 2012 BMW X5 for this, and she swapped cars with me and is driving my 2011 BMW 335i convertible now. I’d been driving that since new (yes you can fit car seats in it no problem! Lol!) but it didn’t even have iDrive in it, so any tech stuff in a car is a big leap for me. I’ve never been able to figure out Fords, but GM’s setup works just fine for me, icons are large, the touchscreen works well, and menus are reasonably simple. Navigation worked as well as Waze over our Thanksgiving road trip, and holy crap, Sirius XM just take my money now!! I thought I had this in my 335i custom order, but apparently missed a tiny little option box and didn't get it on that one, and am not even sure on our traded X5?? Lol Exterior: Pepperdust Metallic wasn’t my first choice of color, but I needed to have the Adaptive Cruise, 3.42 gearing, something other than a black interior, and no other junk I didn’t want before having my first choice of color, and NOT a black exterior either, so no I didn’t get my first color choice, but I think it looks nice when the sun is out. My wife and I are both more partial to some of the blues which look really nice, but we both preferred to get a better deal and the exact options we wanted too, so didn’t do a custom order or anything. I almost bought a Blue Velvet with Mahogany interior, but it had the 3.08 gears, power running boards, and no adaptive cruise. It was an insane deal, but the dealer jacked the price up by $3k as soon as I asked about it and then wouldn’t budge, so I walked. Glad I did. I like what I got much better. I think the Pepperdust will grow on me, and it has decent road contrast too, so I’m happy with it. Overall very pleased with the purchase and the initial quality. Here’s what it was up against. I need to be able to transport 5-7 passengers AND a small 20 lb dog anywhere we might need to go, including international trips to the airport or road trips with all of our luggage. CROSS SHOP LIST BMW X7 and Mercedes GLS: The issue with these and pretty much any large crossover SUV is that they might seat up to 7 or 8 pretty comfortably, but have basically no cargo space with the 3rd row seats deployed. They’re not much bigger than a Tahoe, and I’m not going to spend $70-80k on one of these just for it to not be big enough, and have to use all sorts of external carriers and junk. Nah. My wife really wanted an X7 and we waited to see the official specs and photos, but sorry, 11 cubic feet of cargo space with the 3rd row deployed isn’t gonna cut it! LOL Minivans: I'm sorry, what? No can do. Negative ghost rider, the pattern is full. My wife and I haven’t been through all that we’ve been through and all of the crap we’ve had to deal with just to end up driving a (bleeping) minivan. She refused to drive one and I refuse to drive one, so that’s that. I did actually rent a Kia Sedona (or Entourage) on a trip once two years ago, and really liked it! It drove and handled nice, loved the power sliding doors, and had a ton of space. I was like, wow, this is so cool, too bad we'll never have one of these! That said, the Pacifica looks really nice, and maybe the Odyssey, but I’d rather slit my wrists. Lol. I could do a Pacifica I think, but only if I did a two for one and got a Challenger R/T at the same time. Ford Expedition Max: It was pretty much down to a Burb or the new Expedition Max. I actually rented a “Chevy Suburban or equivalent” from Enterprise a few months ago when my folks were in town and we needed a bigger vehicle for the weekend, but turned out to be a brand new Expedition Max. The deal breaker with the Expedition Max was totally insufficient cargo space behind the 3rd row. Ford claims only 3 cubic feet less than the Suburban, but that’s total BS. The Burb has MUCH more space, and I even broke out all of our luggage to prove it! The Expedition is proportioned to have a bit more passenger space, and the 2nd row seats do slide fore and aft a bit, but we didn’t find the Suburban passenger space to be lacking at all, and it had much better cargo space, so done deal. Believe me I’m a fan of modern direct injected turbocharged 6-cylinder engines - the straight-6 in my BMW 335i is glorious and the turbodiesel straight-6 in our X5 was brilliant, but Ford’s 3.5L V6 EcoBoost engine didn't win me over at all. It sounded and felt rough, and about as inspiring as a blender. Yeah, the power and torque were there, but the 10-speed was mostly skip shifting and wasn’t going to be all that different than a 6 or 8-speed transmission for the most part. A couple times I felt it clicking through gears sequentially like riding a bicycle, which just felt odd and excessive. Does it really matter if the RPMs are 100 higher or lower? I hope GM’s 10-speed calibration of this transmission is better, but I just didn’t like the Ford. In comparison, GM's good old-fashioned naturally aspirated 5.3L V8 sounds and feels glorious, still has plenty of power, gets perfectly decent fuel mileage for me, and the 6-speed works perfectly fine with the 3.42 gearing. The Ford also didn’t have their adaptive suspension, which probably explained why the body roll on it was crazy. It felt like it was going to tip over, which is how I knew we definitely needed the MR suspension. I didn't hold that against it, but overall nobody was won over by the Expedition Max, and the lack of cargo space behind the 3rd row was a joke. Only 3 cubic feet less than the Suburban my ***. I don’t know why Dodge has never made one of these, but I did look at the Dodge Durango. It’s too narrow, and really only 2+2+2 seating, and just wasn’t going to work. It's really a Jeep Grand Cherokee XL, which is fine, but we didn't need a little more space than our X5, we needed A LOT more, and this was just going to come up short. I did also take a serious look at the Chevy Traverse and had actually set on buying it for awhile. It’s a good $20k cheaper than a Suburban comparably equipped, has a workable 3rd row AND decent cargo space. I almost could have gotten away with it, but I knew I’d end up needing an external cargo box in some situations, and then the realization squeezing my 6’3” carcass back there back to back with a Suburban was that that center 3rd row seat is really only a half seat, so I said forget it. I made that mistake before with another vehicle. The color choices were godawful and nonsensical on the Traverse too. I only liked the Black Currant (dark red) color, available only on the Premier trim, but you can only get it with a black interior or this nasty and disgusting grey/tan abomination. You can get a nice Mahogany interior going all the way up to the High Country trim, but then you lose the nice exterior colors?? I could have rocked a Traverse, but the nonsensical exterior and interior color choices turned me off as much as the other things. Denali XL: Just didn't seem worth the bit of extra money to me. Not going to be towing anything regularly, still have the BMW 335i if I want to go faster, and I'd feel wrong putting regular grade fuel in the 6.2L. I know you can do it (it says so in the book), but that engine with 11.5:1 CR really wants premium. The 5.3 is more regular grade fuel friendly, and that's all this vehicle is going to get. So a Suburban it was! Glad we waited, found exactly what we wanted (minus exterior color not being first choice), checked out ALL of the competition and other options including the BMW X7 which still isn’t even available and is just in pre-order stage right now. Due diligence done, found our Burb and got a great deal, and no regrets. My wife wasn’t exactly happy leaving her “baby” X5 at the dealership and driving away in a Suburban rather than an X7, but that vehicle just wasn’t going to work for us, and $80-90k wasn’t in our budget either. She loved the deal we got on the Burb, and how angry I made all of the sales managers and finance guys. Lol! It’s really grown on her after our 500 mile Thanksgiving road trip. She loves all the space, it really does ride and handle nice for such a large vehicle (she hasn’t driven it yet), there’s the feeling of safety and security in such a behemoth too, and the fuel efficiency is surprisingly good for its size, while still having really nice passing power. Best of all our kids didn’t fight even once, everybody had more than enough room including the dog, and nobody got motion sick. We love this thing. Glad we finally have our “Canyonero”. LOL! Hope you all enjoyed my little 2 year long on again off again but finally got it done automotive buying adventure!
  22. Hey guys! I've got a 2005 chevy suburban 1500 with stock everything (except tires). I have 265/70R17 BFGoodrich tires A/T yet they look somewhat small and want to beef up my suburban. I am somewhat inexperienced in this topic, besides from what I have read and researched. I was looking into the BFG's A/T KO2 tires (since they are bigger than my outdated bfg a/t tires) but I was wondering what is the biggest size I can get without having it rub the wheel wells, therefore not making me have to mod the front bumper or having to get different rims. Hope you guys can give me some advice and if you have pictures of what they look like or what my suburban might look like, PLEASE include them. Thanks
  23. My 2002 Avalanche suffered from terminal body rust, mostly from the edges of the painted metal wheel wells being damaged by road debris. My 2011 Avalanche has plastic OEM fender flares that protect the bottom metal edge of the metal fender from stones and debris thrown by the tire. Plastic takes the abuse, rather than painted sheet metal. It is starting to rust in other places, but not the wheel wells. I’m thinking of a 2019 Suburban RST, but they seem to have no protection for the wheel wells - just paint over the steel of the wheel well. Has anyone done a mod to add the plastic late model Avalanche style fender flares to a Suburban? I don’t want radical wheel flares that appear to be attached with stove bolts... Just something to protect the edge of the fender well from stones thrown by the tires. Any suggestions or experience with this?
  24. Hi,, I am a new member and I am glad to have joined this forum. I have a 2018 Tahoe Premier and I tried to get answers to my questions but I couldn't find any.. 1) The vehicle has a feature to auto tilt mirrors on reverse , and it is good feature, but how can I disable the feature (just for a few second i.e. switching back and forth instantaneously ) without going through the in-dash screen? The mirrors are too small and tilting them make it hard to see obstacles behind, although they are good to see side walk edges. I knew that the mirrors have a time frame and it will auto raise to original position even while gear is still on reverse. 2) Is there a way to switch off auto dimming for the mirrors (just for a few second i.e. switching back and forth as well)? Thanks to all
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