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Hey guys, I have 2016 chevy silverado and it has a factory pinstrip on it. Does anyone know if this is painted on or just an adhesive decal? I want to remove it but don't want to screw up paint. Thanks

Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!

I have the 2020 2500 LTZ trim level with back slide window and without sunroof. So i want to remove the overhead console to install a panel of rocker switches posterior to the console right where the roof liner scoops down. I am stuck on how to remove the single button switch for the rear slide window. I tried what i know but don't want to break it. Please share if anyone have come across this. Thanks

I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.

So brought my truck to dealer to get skid plates put on. Asked them to remove the front air dam and they said the 2018's are no longer able to be removed. Anyone have pics of theirs removed or know how to remove it?

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali. I just installed the 2” Rough Country front leveling kit. I couldn’t do the 2.5” because my truck has the stamped control arms. The rear of my truck still has about a 1.5” lift/rake compared to the front that I am sure is caused by the rear lift blocks since it is 4WD. Can I remove the rear blocks safely? Or will it cause any damage to my Magneride suspension? What are my options to lower the rear to match the front of my truck now?

Hey, so I am trying to replace the speaker wire in my rear door speakers and I cannot get the panel off that is on the column between the front door and rear door. This column panel has the speaker wires running up it into my rear door. How do I remove the panel without breaking the little red Clips inside? Thanks, Hunter

Hey everyone, I just wanted to share my experience using Meguiar’s ultimate compound on a mild scratch I had on the truck when purchased. It was really hard to get good pictures with the iPhone, but I think it shows a pretty good before and after. And yes, in case you’re wondering, the scratch is in the exact same spot in both pictures. It made a huge difference. And with no micro scratches left on the clear coat around the scratch either. There is a residual ‘shadow’ of the scratch still in the clear coat, but it is in no way visible unless pointed out to you. It drove me crazy, as every time I would walk up to the truck it would catch my eye. This only took four minutes to do with an applicator sponge, and a light wipe down after with a microfibre towel. And I have a ton of the product left to use for probably the lifetime of the vehicle. I sold Meguiar’s years ago at a shop I worked at, and the stuff has never let me down. Cheers all!

Hello all, New to the forum. I installed a train horn behind the front bumper and removed my lower air dam. Things is, I want to replace that black Sierra plastic skid plate with the =Denali Chrome one. Give the front end a beefier front end... I will try to add mock up pics from my iphone. Anyway, I got the lower dam off, piece of cake. Got all but two screws from the upper plastic skid plate. The other two screws are almost impossible to reach. HAs anyone tried to remove this thing? https://www.generalmotorspartsonline.com/oem-parts/gm-skid-plate-23243492?origin=pla I am really hoping I don't have to remove the front bumper,m valance trim etc just to get at those two screws. Anyone done this before? any ideas? Thanks in advance! here is the phtoshoped version of what i am trying. The white letters for gmc i already did with reflective vinyl, looks cool at night when lights hit it! Plus it matches the truck. I did the rear as well

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

Hi everyone! Truck owners or prospective owners: How many of you remove your tailgate? And how often? Why do you remove your gate? I noticed GM trucks in 2017 have cables bolted on with a hex head, as opposed to previous years where the cable could be easily removed with a finger. Thoughts?

(Pictures are not uploading properly, I will fix it when I can and put them in the appropriate places in the post) I want to start off by saying, pictures are limited, as the only bolts you need to remove (10 total) are fairly obvious and in your face, the only two that are 'difficult' to find I will explain where they are. I special ordered my truck how I wanted it with every option I needed, but I left off the chrome package because I don't like chrome. But then my dad bought a black LT RCSB and I loved the chrome bumper so I decided I had to have one while I look for all blue color matched (Z71) front end parts. The first part that needs to come off is the plastic trim under the hood, that is on top of the radiator/grille. There are 10 push-pins that hold it on. I used the second tool in the picture, lift the first stage of the clip, once its up about 3/4 inch, get under the base and pull it completely out. Next, the grille is held on with 4 10mm bolts, these bolts don't do much honestly. Pulling the grille itself out was the most challenging part of the whole job. There are clips in front of each bolt that will slide back in their slots if you breath too hard. On the middle/driver's side clip, there is a plastic locator pin that appears to be nearly impossible to leave intact and remove the grille, so I cut it off flush - there are enough pressure clips to keep everything aligned. I started at the passenger side and removed the top clip, then pulled the grille out at the middle cross piece. Don't be afraid of pulling too hard, the pressure clips release with some force. Once the grille pull out approximately 1", you can lift the grille up and out. This leaves the bumper. There are a total of 6 bolts that attach the bumper to the truck, 4 accessible now that the grille is removed, the other 2 are harder to get too, one on each side. If you lay down in front of each tire and look up, you will see the brace that secure the bumper. Remove the one 15mm bolt that on each side (leave side with 2 bolts on the frame). Now you can remove the four 18 mm bolts that are in front of the radiator. The bumper should rest on its mounts once all bolts are removed without a risk of falling, but be careful regardless. That will leave you with something that looks like this, kind of intimidating at first. I had to transfer all the appropriate brackets from my back bumper to my chrome one, a little bit of effort but if you have gotten this far you won't have an issue. Then everything goes back together exactly the opposite as it came apart. ​

I started removing the interior trim in my 2016 sierra. My plan is to vinyl wrap it all with red carbon fibre wrap. But I am stuck on one piece. It is the silver one that goes around the stereo controls. Please excuse my crappy picture as I took it at night and tried to brighten it up. Does anyone know how to remove this piece?

Quick guide we put together on how to remove the front seats and center console with the split 40-20-40 bench seat. If you have any suggestions or comments post below! I will be uploading a guide on how to remove the seatbelts in the near future.

the middle got pulled out and the clips on the side are down an inch i need to remove the chrome part and bend the tabs back 22757264 and 3 and install new bumber 22902307 is there a guide for uninsalling this part? I work for a GM dealer so do they have like a guide?

Broke my driver side mirror while backing into the garage...had to buy a replacement. In order to replace the mirror, you need to remove the whole door panel to access the bolts and wire harness for the mirror... Enjoy!

Simple question. I am currently wiring in my blackvue cameras and am looking to remove the door sill assembly on the drivers side (not sure if that's the right term). It seems like the whole plastic assembly is just clicked in and can be popped out, but before breaking any plastic pieces, I want to make sure that this would be the right approach. Can someone send me a link to a video and/or instructions as to how to remove the whole assembly? Just so you guys know what I am talking about, I have attached a picture. I am connecting the wires to an external cellink b battery which will be located under the driver seat. Thanks

I've had everything replaced and repaired physically to my 1998 Silverado such as fuel pump, tank, sending unit. My fuel gauge is still vibrating (fluttering.) I pulled my cluster out as I want to try and replace the stepper motor for the fuel gauge, however when I pulled the cluster out, I am not comfortable trying to pull the the actual panel out from the gauges itself. Seems as if it is glued down somehow. Any info or ideas on what to do next will be much appreciated, thanks.

2001 Chev Express 2500 cargo van, 5.7 L with auto tranny, 190,000 km Good evening gentlemen and ladies. I'm a hands on type of guy. Just discovered your forum, very exciting, hope I'm posting very 1st post correctly? Just bought this van and looking forward to getting fancy with it. I've now only got one issue holding me back from my safety inspection. Signal light switch is causing me some grief. Having devil of a time figuring how to remove it. Hoping someone wiser can share some of their been-there-done-that wisdom? Presently have the switch end of the harness unscrewed from the column. Buttt, how do I get the plug end of the harness easily removed from it's mate ? ? I do have the 8 mm holding bolt unscrewed. I do have 2 blue 'keeper forks' pulled from either end. I've already pulled and pried on this for close to 2 hours, all to zero avail! Even removed drivers seat to give me lots more elbow room. Traded off with a friend to take a crack at it. Also to no avail. :{ I'm guessing this is the "baddie" plug I heard a friend talking about years ago. Which leads me to guess that some enterprising person has been shouldered with this task on more than one occasion before me. It somehow makes sense that some wise soul has figured a way to easily separate this plug. Is there a custom puller of some kind? In summary: Please help (if you can). Thank you in advance Sincerely Newbie From Canada

Hello all, Long time reader, first time poster here (haha). I decided to post this because I couldn't find any answers to my questions prior to going through the process. It was very frustrating, my back hurts, and I spent a lot of money in gas, so I am posting this to hopefully make things easier for you than it was for me. Unless you work on vehicles full time with access to a shop, go ahead and plan on taking your truck to a spring shop. Try this if you want to save a few bucks though. My ride: 1994 Z71 Chevrolet (half ton/heavy half/4x4) without a torsion lift, though my truck seems to sit relatively high. I currently have 265R16 tires on mine. What I did: Changed my leaf springs to a set with two additional leafs from a 3/4 ton (yes they fit half tons), purchased everything separately, changed my shocks, tried out some larger tires so I know what to buy next. The newer springs with more leafs/leaves changed the ride height to a perfect level. Why I did it: My truck was sagging, not a lot, but enough to where I noticed it. It was also sagging ever so slightly to one side, not much but enough to where I thought I was losing my mind. The ride was also rough even when I wasn't hauling anything. I noticed it when my buddy's truck had a much easier ride. I also noticed that my front suspension seemed to react "harder" than other trucks to bumps in the road. Later I found that one of my main leafs was broken at the eyelet, the other side was broken at the U-bolts and I couldn't see it. I had probably been driving like that for maybe one year. New parts and what I spent: Used leaf springs from a junk yard (I opted for six-leaf springs from a 3/4 ton) : $200 for both (The junk yard will probably saw them off and hand them to you.) New shackles x2 : $55 New U-bolts x 4: $35 (from a 2000's model, they fit as long as you measure them) New things that the U-bolts attach to: $45 (again, from a newer model, the shop said they've worked in the past) New bushings x2 : $40 (get the stock ones, trust me, all the others are a headache) New shocks x4, replaced a few months earlier : $250ish (don't waste your money if you haul, get the good ones) Had a shop handle the rest, yes it is much easier : $330 taxes and all Used newer model rims with bald 305's from Craigslist : $75 *This is probably the cheapest route to follow give or take pricing on a few items. *Ebay was used for Ubolts and shackles, use Ebay for the bushings too though. Needed tools IF you remove the old bushings on your own: Circular bit (1 5/8" I think, measure yours first) : $20 Power Drill and Sawsall: I already had one. 24" breaker bar : $15 on sale at Harbor Freight *Don't bother with electric or battery impacts, they won't work. *I'd just let the shop press them out when they put the old ones in and save a few bucks. The best path if you aren't a full time mechanic: Note first: I found that my ride stiffness didn't change much from the old springs (broken four leafs to the new six leafs). It is actually a bit better. My buddy also confirmed this thought when he did his, though he said his was a bit more stiff. How many leafs is your choice though. 1. Find a spring shop and get an idea of what they will charge to swap the new ones on (I was quoted $270). I explained that I already had everything and intended to do it myself but gave up, it wasn't the first time they had heard that. You could check what they would charge for shocks too, but those aren't hard to change. I'd have probably paid up to $65 for them to change the shocks to save an afternoon, up to you though. 2. Purchase/order everything needed first so it is on its way. Discuss what shocks to use with someone who is an expert, not just the guy behind the counter. The pricier ones are usually better though. If in doubt about something fitting, buy it from a store so it can be returned. 3. Purchase used six-leaf springs, make sure they aren't broken or cracked. Saw away the crap if needed so the old bushings can be easily pressed out by the spring shop. You could use the circular bit to drill down around the old bushing. Work it back and forth with the breaker bar until free. Turn it one direction with pressure on the other side until it twists out (it takes a while). OR just saw each side of the bolt off and let the shop press them out. 4. Don't waste time trying to have the bushings pressed in or out, it will likely be included in the price if the shop is putting them on. 5. Take the truck in, explain that you want to make sure it won't be sitting ass-up like a jackass, and them them do it. This will save you a back ache, lots of gas money, and many curse words. I kid you not, messing with old rusty bolts and bushings is a major pain in the butt, let them do it! 6. Change your shocks afterward to avoid wearing them out prior to the spring swap (if you didn't want the shop to). Aftermath: My truck looks like it got a little bit of lift compared to the way it used to sit. The six-leafs fit perfectly without the truck sitting too high in the back. The stiffness didn't change all that much for me and the ride is a bit better. I recommend changing your shocks if your truck is old as sin like mine. I found that I could play my old shocks like an accordion. Hey, I inherited it so leave me alone! Keep in mind that changing your springs doesn't change the ability of the axles, so don't risk breaking them by overloading the truck. I found that I could fit 305's on my truck stock, but since I haul and do some minor off-roading, I won't be going over 285's next time. I also read another post where a guy had six leafs installed in order to haul his camper. He changed his tires to 10-ply tires, which I will probably do eventually. I took this path to avoid the markups on parts at the shop, and I honestly thought I could do it myself. Mistake. Skip the machine shops, get what you need, and have a spring shop do it. It will save you a few headaches, lots of sweat, time, back pains, and gas money. Pictures are added below of the end result, still with 265R16 tires. The only concern I have moving forward is the dependability of my newer springs, but brand new ones were crazy expensive so I risked using used ones. Honestly, I'll probably miss replies but plan to check back periodically when I can remember to answer questions. I wish I'd have known all of this going into the project, hopefully it helps you! Other considerations for longevity: If you have an old truck like mine, consider getting a tune up and new distributor cap. You might also change the O2 sensors, I found mine went bad without giving me an engine light. It killed my power and drove me crazy. There is also an inlet at the top of the engine toward the back that will be brittle and break soon, leaking coolant on the ground. Have a shop handle it when it happens, trust me. Also, you might check the circuit board for the windshield wipers if they ever go intermittent or quit.

Well I recently went off-road with some friends and I sort of bent the front plastic air dam (truck isn't lifted yet)is it possible to bend it back with a heat gun or should I just get a new one or should I just take it off all together. I'm sort of bummed that it happened but I don't know what to do. Will there be any major effects if I take the plastic air dam off in the front ? All replies will be greatly appreciated as always.

I haven't been able to find any diagrams or instruction on removal of the rear bumper yet. Does anyone have a resource on this? Seems that the plastics on the bumper are held on by bolts in really odd positions, making them hard to remove.

Does the engine cover (the plastic cover) comes off like the one on the '13? I wanted to make sure before I begin pulling and breaking.... like it happens a lot of times... Thanks in advance.... 2014 Sierra SLT Z71