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Hey guys, I have 2016 chevy silverado and it has a factory pinstrip on it. Does anyone know if this is painted on or just an adhesive decal? I want to remove it but don't want to screw up paint. Thanks

Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!

I have the 2020 2500 LTZ trim level with back slide window and without sunroof. So i want to remove the overhead console to install a panel of rocker switches posterior to the console right where the roof liner scoops down. I am stuck on how to remove the single button switch for the rear slide window. I tried what i know but don't want to break it. Please share if anyone have come across this. Thanks

I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.

So brought my truck to dealer to get skid plates put on. Asked them to remove the front air dam and they said the 2018's are no longer able to be removed. Anyone have pics of theirs removed or know how to remove it?

I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali. I just installed the 2” Rough Country front leveling kit. I couldn’t do the 2.5” because my truck has the stamped control arms. The rear of my truck still has about a 1.5” lift/rake compared to the front that I am sure is caused by the rear lift blocks since it is 4WD. Can I remove the rear blocks safely? Or will it cause any damage to my Magneride suspension? What are my options to lower the rear to match the front of my truck now?

Hey, so I am trying to replace the speaker wire in my rear door speakers and I cannot get the panel off that is on the column between the front door and rear door. This column panel has the speaker wires running up it into my rear door. How do I remove the panel without breaking the little red Clips inside? Thanks, Hunter

Hey everyone, I just wanted to share my experience using Meguiar’s ultimate compound on a mild scratch I had on the truck when purchased. It was really hard to get good pictures with the iPhone, but I think it shows a pretty good before and after. And yes, in case you’re wondering, the scratch is in the exact same spot in both pictures. It made a huge difference. And with no micro scratches left on the clear coat around the scratch either. There is a residual ‘shadow’ of the scratch still in the clear coat, but it is in no way visible unless pointed out to you. It drove me crazy, as every time I would walk up to the truck it would catch my eye. This only took four minutes to do with an applicator sponge, and a light wipe down after with a microfibre towel. And I have a ton of the product left to use for probably the lifetime of the vehicle. I sold Meguiar’s years ago at a shop I worked at, and the stuff has never let me down. Cheers all!

Hello all, New to the forum. I installed a train horn behind the front bumper and removed my lower air dam. Things is, I want to replace that black Sierra plastic skid plate with the =Denali Chrome one. Give the front end a beefier front end... I will try to add mock up pics from my iphone. Anyway, I got the lower dam off, piece of cake. Got all but two screws from the upper plastic skid plate. The other two screws are almost impossible to reach. HAs anyone tried to remove this thing? https://www.generalmotorspartsonline.com/oem-parts/gm-skid-plate-23243492?origin=pla I am really hoping I don't have to remove the front bumper,m valance trim etc just to get at those two screws. Anyone done this before? any ideas? Thanks in advance! here is the phtoshoped version of what i am trying. The white letters for gmc i already did with reflective vinyl, looks cool at night when lights hit it! Plus it matches the truck. I did the rear as well

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

Hi everyone! Truck owners or prospective owners: How many of you remove your tailgate? And how often? Why do you remove your gate? I noticed GM trucks in 2017 have cables bolted on with a hex head, as opposed to previous years where the cable could be easily removed with a finger. Thoughts?