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Drives

Found 2 results

  1. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf
  2. MY OWN TRUCK is a 1999 Silverado Z71 LS 5.3l 4L60E with 195,000 miles, and it always starts, always runs, gets me down the road, and the job done, without fail. Paid $1800 two years ago, with a bad rear end. Installed new water pump, starter, alternator, new brakes all around, and rebuilt the rear-end myself. Wasn't at all easy, or cheap, but it was worth it. Now, my transmission needs to be either rebuilt, repaired, or replaced; neither of which will be at all cheap, or easy for me I know, but I have somehow managed to have a potential swap fall in my lap, and it was free. The replacement tranny is a 4L60E out of a 1999 Escalade 5.7l AWD, that's only got 90,000 miles on it. Things been sitting for about a year, is complete, and has (had) no known issues. Lacking the means, knowledge, and/or financial resources to make repairs (Sun Shell thing broke) or to pay someone else to fix it, or rebuild it, or the time to wait until a busy shop can get to it, I'm preparing to make the swap myself, but with the assistance of a few buddies, some of their tools, and hopefully a collective of experience and knowledge to do the job properly. What I'm asking for here is a little help with the particulars, and I could definitely use any and all the help I could get in the way of advice, direction, caution, tips, pointers, hints, do's and don'ts, and a few nuggets of wisdom. Steps, or some order of operation, would be nice, but first I was hoping for a confirmation on interchange fitment, relative suitability, difficulty in completing the swap, should the swap be less than a good fit, but perhaps still do-able. So.. First, is my OKXD swap compatible? I've done quite a bit of research, but still haven't got a simple, definitive "Yes" what I was hoping for. Is it even possible to keep my PCM with a tranny from a 5.7? The Bell Housing has a bolt hole top-center (I was told that was for diesel motor engine application) and the Torque Converter TMBX 242-4393 has three holes for bolting up to my Drive Plate. Both are two-piece (Bell Housing to Gear Box), and both include 4WD/AWD coupler 15724744-YDC-5 to Transfer Case (Transfer Cases are the same? My truck came equipped with Automatic 4WD) so are there any issues with this swap? Second, if compatible/interchangeable, what should I do first, besides drop the driveshafts, transfer case, crossmember, and pull plug-in connector, linkage, etc? Is there any prep I need to do to ready the replacement unit? It has been sitting somewhere in a guy's garage, gathering dust, dirty, a little crusty, does it need to be flushed, primed? Should it be checked to make sure the electronics are not friend, switches operable? Third and last, what are my odds to complete this swap, by myself, the first time, and still be able to drive my truck another 100,000 miles? Any input, comment, criticism would be much appreciated, thanks!
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