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  1. These are 1 month old all-weather liners from the 2020 Tahoe in black color. Genuine GM OEM products offer precise fit and high quality finish. We have traded the car for 22 and did not get to use the liners. They cover first and second row. I was told they fit 2015-2020 Tahoes and Yukons and even Escalades First row- GM part # 84185470 Second row - GM part # 23237406 My price is $90 + actual shipping. I have paid $260 for them. My loss is your gain. Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon
  2. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf
  3. CHEVROLET TAHOE GMC YUKON AUDIO UPGRADE, KICKER® 200 WATT AMPLIFIER AND SUBWOOFER SYSTEM GM part 19355507 Kicker part PSUTA15 Brand new never used or open GM Genuine OEM Accessories Amplifier and Subwoofer system made by Kicker for Tahoes 2016-2020 and many other GM trucks. ( Please note this is the not the cheaper Sub only kit but rather full audio upgrade system with amplifier, DSP and all parts, Retail rice at dealers is $1300. Part # 19355507. Please check gm accessories site for compatibility. It retails for $900-$1300 new on eBay and at dealers, I paid $930. Selling for the price of $625+shipping. The parts are sealed and never opened. I bought it for my 2020 Tahoe, but I do not have time to install it. It is plug and play according to GM.
  4. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  5. Hey Guys, I have a 2010 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV with a 5.3L LMG and a 6L80 Trans (MYC) looking to drop in a 6.2L L9H. As far as I understand it is a direct swap. Would I run in to any issues or codes as far as the L9H not having AFM/DOD? I plan on using the 5.3L PCM and having it re flashed to work with the 6.2 Or do I look for a L94 that has FlexFuel, VVT, AFM like the LMG does?
  6. Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three. I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1). I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain. I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F. I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets. I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park. I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct. But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
  7. I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage.
  8. I have a 2016 Chevy Tahoe 105,000 miles. Twice last week a few days apart my check engine light began flashing about 15-20 minutes into my commute and turned off within about 1-2 minutes both times. My spark plugs were replaced at 97,576 miles last October at the dealership and the coils, boots, etc, were inspected . I’ve been told that putting a tank of high quality supreme grade gas could help the problem. Has anyone else had this issue?
  9. I have a 2015 Tahoe PPV and was wondering if anyone had any information or literature on the competition mode on this model. I have driven it in both modes and have not noticed any significant differences. I am also curious about how active fuel management works on these if possible!
  10. I have a 2000 yykon denali,new battery,alternator,light switch. When you shut the vehicle off and exit with keys,the headlights and tail lamps will sometimes flicker or illuminate. Can hear something like a relay clicking under the dash. Sometimes its all of them and sometimes just park lamps. Advise please.
  11. I just saw a Tahoe LT on my way home from work using the LEDs as DRLs at full 100% brightness just like the LTZ models. Yes, I am sure it was a LT model and it looked totally stock even with the entry level honeycomb pattern grille. He was going the opposite way so I couldn't stop him to ask. Someone out there has figured it out! Does anyone have an update for this mod?
  12. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  13. Wife took the truck to get new tires and she knocked it into "auto 4wd" and I noticed it a day after.. Now it has a rough sound and feel coming from the back.. Where do I start?
  14. I have a 2003 Tahoe LT that I'm gonna put a 2in leveling kit on. What would be the biggest tire/rim combo I could do with no rubbing/trimming required? Thanks!
  15. I purchased a 2016 Tahoe in December and have put about 700 miles on it. About two weeks ago I was on the highway and the car slowed down to 15 miles per hour and would not go any faster. I tried accelerating but all that did was increase the revs. I was able to slowly drive the car back to my house and had it towed to a dealer. I have recently been notified that the transmission needs to be "torn down" and rebuilt. I have been trying to get in contact with GM to explain that I am unhappy with this as a solution as the car is basically brand new. This post is to serve as a warning in to how they deal with situations like this. I was given a case number and told that someone would be reaching out to me. After a week I decided I would check in because no one had called me. After being unable to get in touch with anyone at GM I decided to call the dealership. That was the point where they told me the plan to rebuild the transmission. All of this was taking place without my knowledge and before I had been given any information. Apparently my advocate at GM that was working on the case was unable to get in touch with the service department at the dealership so the matter was being tabled...I guess. Today I called again was not able to get in touch with my designated "Senior Account" rep. I told the person on the phone I would really appreciate speaking to someone else that could help me. Twenty minutes later they came back to the phone and said they were unable to find that person or a supervisor. The suggestion was to wait until someone would call me back within 24 hours. After not receiving a phone call the first time, I was hesitant to do this but did anyway. I got a call from my senior account rep a few minutes later saying they were still waiting on information from the dealership regarding the repairs. How was I able to get the information before they were if they were working on my behalf? Anyway, I am now attempting to get GM to take the car back or replace it because I do not trust a car that has transmission issues before reaching 1000 miles. Has anyone gone through this process? I had a Tahoe before this car that had no issues and used to advocate for the quality. The way this situation has been handled by the company is very eye opening.
  16. I have a 99 tahoe and a 97 single cab 1500. Can I move the bed and cab from the 1500 to the tahoe chassis?
  17. Hey there! I'm going to do a public service to the GM Truck people and make a guide on how to remove your front fenders from your Early 00's Silverado, Sierra, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL, and Tahoe. It's pretty straight forward, but this guide should be a help anyway. If you would prefer to watch an in-depth video with the same steps I'm showing here, please click this link --------> Fender Removal Video 1. Here are the tools you will need: 13 MM Socket 10 MM Socket 13 MM Wrench 10 MM Wrench Socket Wrench Socket Extensions Penetrating Oil or WD-40 Bungee Cord(s) Patience Let's first go over why I'm doing this, this truck was donated to me and my father as a project and this fender has a nasty rust hole straight through. So, we're hitting the Pick-N-Pull tomorrow to get a new fender. (Remove your wheel(s) before this guide) 2. Remove the hood hinge (13MM Bolt), or the hood itself. We had a way to support the side of the hood we were removing so we did not need to entirely remove the hood. If you do not have a way to support the hood, you will need to remove the whole thing. 3. Remove all the 13mm's along the fender you are wanting to remove 4. Remove wheel well splash cover by pulling the head of the little clips to free the liner, here is what the clips look like: 5. Soak 13 MM bolt where the fender and rocker panel meet with lube then try and break it loose. (These are exposed so it'll be rusty.) 6. Remove the 2 hidden 13 MM bolts in the door jam, use a long extension. 7. Unscrew Airbox and remove the hose, next remove your air filter and the top of the airbox. 8. Release bottom part of the airbox by using a screwdriver to push the little pins down which will pop the box out. 9. Remove the 3 10MM bolts holding the airbox support down. Remove any remaining clips. 10. Loosen coolant reservoir and secure to the side https://imgur.com/gallery/jO3RCUZ 11. Remove all remaining 13 mm and 10 mm bolts holding fender to chassis. 12. Remove headlight by pulling up on the metal bars, removing them. Next, pull the light and disconnect the connectors. 13. Remove grill clip from fender 14. Remove the last bolt holding the hood hinge to the fender with a wrench 15. Remove 13 MM bolt holding fender in the wheel well (inner bumper) 17. Wiggle fender upward and pull, it should easily come off of the truck. Ta-Da! Now you have tons of access to work or you're halfway done replacing your fender. I hope this helps! If you have trouble, please comment or refer to this video: Thanks!
  18. Good morning...I wanted to see if anyone else has been shopping for a used GM large SUV? (Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon XL) We have been window shopping for a little while now...and I was getting really close to a deal for a used 2019, with less than 30k miles. I started reading some articles that are indicating the supply market is building up on these (probably all vehicles) in whole sale auctions, rental fleets, corporate fleets, lease returns etc...but no where to sell them... the demand has dropped out...some are estimating used car prices will drop 10% and stay lower longer than back in 2008. I was curious what/if any experiences you have had while shopping for a used vehicle? I'm not sure the dealers have really had the wave him them yet...but I'm sure its coming... good or bad experiences? Thanks in advance for the discussion.
  19. Putting together a little Light guide similar to what MotoMedic did for the Silverados. More details to come on this with swaps and some photos (Scroll down a few posts). (Yukon and Yukon XL Only Low, High, fog, license and back-up apply as GMC has more OEM LED handling the others). Some of these may apply to 2014 model year but the bulb size is different like the 2014 Yukons. Tutorial videos (Courtesy of CarCareKiosk and some random dude on YouTube) reflect as: * Chevrolet ** GMC Side Note: OEM HID Color is approximately 4200-4300K. LuciasMaximus and I are playing around with color matching the factory LED DRL. The factory LED DRL appears to be between 5500K-6000K color wise. Suburban*/Tahoe*/Yukon**/Yukon XL**: Low Beam Lights w/HID*,** - D3S Low Beam Lights*,** - H11 (H11-55W) Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace Low Beam Bulb Tutorial ** High Beam Lights*,** - 9005 (HB3) Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial * Replace High Beam Bulb Tutorial ** Front turn signal* - 7440NA Replace Front Turn Signal Bulb Tutorial * Fog Lights*,** - PSX26W - (12278 / 12278C1 / H28W) Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial * Replace Fog Light Bulb Tutorial ** Back-up Lights / Reverse Lights*,** - 921 (921W / W16W) Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial * Replace Back-up/Reverse Light Tutorial ** License Plate Lights*,** - 194 (194W / 12961) Replace License Plate Bulb Tutorial *, ** (Starts at 0:30) Rear Turn/Stop Lights* - 7440 (7440W) Replace Rear Turn/Stop Bulbs Tutorial *
  20. Hello all, new member here, first post. Did a search but couldn't find a recent thread with similar problems so here we are. Bought a used Tahoe with transmission that was supposed to have been rebuilt for my son. He drove for about 10 months and it went into limp mode, I figured trans went bad and swapped for one out of a donor that was wrecked, didn't know about limp mode yet. Swapped in the trans and truck drove better than the rebuild, actually went through all the gears, son went to get inspection but needed to put miles on for computer after it reset. While driving it suddenly went to having nothing when put into drive, google research lead me to limp mode and this site. What could cause the trans to suddenly go to limp mode while in the middle of driving? Bad ecm? or bad shift solenoid? Looking forward to getting some feedback and hopefully being a productive member to the board Thanks Burnunit
  21. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  22. First time poster this evening and came across this forum after searching/researching my issue online. I recently purchased a 2018 Tahoe Premier with roughly 37K miles on it. Since purchasing I have had a message of "Side Detection Is Temporarily Unavailable" on the info screen upon each start. I have also noticed my SBZA system not to be functioning. Well, after realizing this was more than a setting being turned off or computer issue, I took it into my local Chevy Service center to be inspected. I was surprised to learn of a potential costly fix without an easy work around. Basically my service center was having a difficult time diagnosing the problem at first, but came across a bulletin to check the heat staking for the brackets that attached to the rear bumper modules. They checked and found that the heat staking on my passenger side was pulled away from the bumper and on the drivers side, a bent or improperly repaired bracket. The recommended fix per the bulletin was to replace the rear bumper to correct the concern due to excessive gaping cause by heat staking being pulled away from the bumper cover fascia. Basically a new bumper cover assembly with sensors included in the assembly. This being a fairly costly repair considering the replacement of the bumper cover, additional work and labor, as well as paint. Has anyone dealt with this issue and have any suggestions or any other possible remedies. The folks at my Chevy dealership service feel the sensors can't be adjusted, fixed, or brackets fixed due to the compromising of the heat staking. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am working with the dealership I purchased the used vehicle at to correct, but trying to minimize my out of pocket if it comes to be my responsibility. Thanks in advance!
  23. Hi All, Realize there are a lot of threads on this but nothing recent that I can find and nothing on a 2019 model. I have a 2019 Tahoe LT, purchased 08/18, that was a great truck until now. I took it to dealer in 09/19 for oil change/tire rotation at 6,200 miles and felt a vibration upon leaving. I was surprised they could change oil, rotate and balance 4 tires and do a multipoint inspection in 45 min. I thought ok, their balance machine is not right. Vibration turned violent within ~500 miles so I took it to a Firestone tire shop. 2 of the 4 were way out of balance and 2 others were out of balance but to a lesser extent. Did NOT solve shake. Took back to dealer 10/19 at 7,500 miles and complained of shake. They did road force balance and replaced 2 tires. Ran okay for ~700 miles then was back with a vengeance. Returned to dealer 11/19 8,500 miles with same complaint. Ended up doing road force balance again and 2 more new tires. Thing shook as a drove away. Truck is at the dealer now and I'm dealing with service director who claims per the picoscopre, everything is fine and within spec. Running fine. I'm going for a test drive with him tomorrow morning. Has anyone had this issue on a '19? Has anyone had any success getting this issue solved? I don't think I could even trade this thing in the way it shakes right now nor do I want to take a bath on it financially. Has anyone gotten an aftermarket driveshaft? That seems to be a possible culprit although my dealer says mine is fine. New shocks? I'm at a total loss...
  24. The rattle we had was coming from headliner behind the passenger seat, and was typically worse at medium to highway speeds. It is noticeably louder with the sunroof cover slid back(open). My fix: Open rear passenger door and stand on running board to access the roof rack. If you wiggle the crossbar of the rack it has the slightest of slack, but just enough to make a clanking sound. I wedged some thin flexible magnet pieces(no the rack isn't magnetic, just what I had handy) in between the crossbar and the roof brace in front of and back of the bar(see pic). Viola...no noise. If these come loose I will come up with something more robust(maybe some two part epoxy). I'm not familiar with the inside of the 2015-2019 Suburban, Tahoe, and regular Yukon's, but the ultra quiet cabin of the Denali amplifies ANY little rattle or strange noise. I was used to the road noise and rattles of my 2007 Suburban(288K). They went kind of hand in hand. This one will take some getting used to. I know, suck it up buttercup. Now...back to the "other" issue... front end clank, clank, clank-clank after medium to hard braking, but occasionally during acceleration, and less occasionally steady speeds. No specific rhythm, almost like it's swinging in the wind, and then it suddenly stops after a few seconds. Please help if you know anything! I WILL fix this too! There is a video from another in a different thread on here that has the EXACT same issue/sound as mine.
  25. 2 times in a month...First at 5400 miles and dealer had it for three weeks, replaced the Torque converter and that seemed to fix it. Engine light again 2 days ago and same code again. 6500 miles on this truck, it not run hard and I’m just about ready to trade it in. Anyone else having issues with P0741 codes on their Tahoe? This is the second time in a month the truck has thrown this code.
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