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Found 103 results

  1. 2014-2018 Chevy Silverado's and GMC Sierra's have a problem with cycling of the thermostat that causes stress fractures on the radiator leading to coolant leaks. Attached are GM bulletins on the 2014 and 2015 models. As one can see they have provided special coverage on the 2014 models to 5 years or 100000 miles for this problem.(Bulletin 15829) This is not true of the 2015 like mine although they use similar verbiage in the bulletin P11513A and P11513F. This problem can also exist in 2016-18 models according to what a mechanic told me. It should be noted that Bulletin P11513A and F also applies to 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models, 2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, 2015 GMC Sierra Denali, Yukon Models, Yukon Denali Models Equipped with 4.3L, 5.3L or 6.2L Engine (RPOs LV1, LV3, L83 or L86). Anyone regardless of year and mileage with this problem needs to report this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) using the compliant form ( https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/) or calling the hot line at 1-888-327-4236. With enough complaints the NHTSA may force GM to issue a recall or provide extend coverage. Even if you have had this repaired filling a compliant may get you reimbursed for your costs. Another option is to file a compliant with the Better Business Bureau. They have a compliant form on line just type in BBB Car-Truck Compliant in your search engine. It will not hurt to file a compliant with both the BBB and NHTSA. Although If you are going to do this file with the BBB first as they will not accept your compliant if you file with the NHTSA first. 2015 Radiator PI1513A.pdf 2014 Radiator Special Coverage 15829.pdf GM Bulletin P11513F January 2019.pdf
  2. I apologize for the novel, but here we go! Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before. Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy. Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise. Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key. I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine. My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked. Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing. This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything. Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that. I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow ugh Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles. Also, no, it will not start in neutral. Any tips would be awesome!
  3. Hi, I just joined the forum and tried to search for information about my specific issue and came up empty, so I'm hoping someone may have info I could look into on this subject. I bought my 2015 Suburban LTZ (5.3L 2wd) about 6 months ago (used, with 50,000 miles on it... I know ;) ). It now has about 62,000. I purchased an extended "Bumper to bumper" warranty along with it. A few weeks ago my front end started bouncing when I would hit bumps or drive out of parking lots. Anytime I go over a bump, it oscillates over and over. I've experienced this before with older vehicles. Its clearly the shocks that are bad. When the vehicle is stopped, if I push down on the hood and let go, it goes up and down several times before stopping. Instead of the standard, down, up, middle, - that would be expected from good shocks. I took it to my local dealership where I purchased it. After a week of waiting for diagnosis, and approval from the warranty company... They call me to say the warranty company says they wont cover "shocks" only "struts". From the looks of things, these are coil over shocks. I get that. However, the GM Part number description says "Strut". So which is it?! The warranty doesn't cover parts designed to wear out, I understand that. However, they state they will cover Struts. Anyway, they are telling me, my shocks need replacement and because of the LTZ Magnetic Ride, it is an $1,800 job ...just the fronts! at 60,000 miles! I'm not sure I want to replace them again at 120k miles if they are that prone to failure, with a cost like that tied to it. It sounds like I'm stuck with what the warranty company wants to call "Shocks" so I'm on to just trying to figure out how to get a decent ride back so I don't have a potentially dangerous situation on my hands. My options, as I figure, are as follows: a.) Pay the $1800 and get it fixed and continue with the arguably stiff ride this 'improved suspension' system gives. b.) Make some noise with the warranty company, waste some time, and probably wind up needing to pay out of pocket anyway. c.) Find a set of good after market shocks, and put them in. Then find out if the Magnetic ride system can be disabled (or if it even needs to be). I don't want to have a dash light on or any other issues if I just swap out the shocks on the front only (for now). I would even do a leveling kit if it came with new shocks. But I just don't want any suprizes by putting shocks on then finding out the system can't be bypassed or something. Does anyone have any experience removing the Magnetic Ride shocks and replacing them with Bilstein shocks or some other aftermarket brand? I look forward to any input anyone can give. I'm leaning hard on option c.) just because I've got a real sour taste in my mouth about this relatively new truck, that I love, giving me such huge expenditure so early on, especially on a component that is the subject of such controversy. I hardly see this magnetic ride as an improvement in ride quality, or lifespan. So I'm not sure where the improvement is.
  4. I purchased a 2016 Tahoe in December and have put about 700 miles on it. About two weeks ago I was on the highway and the car slowed down to 15 miles per hour and would not go any faster. I tried accelerating but all that did was increase the revs. I was able to slowly drive the car back to my house and had it towed to a dealer. I have recently been notified that the transmission needs to be "torn down" and rebuilt. I have been trying to get in contact with GM to explain that I am unhappy with this as a solution as the car is basically brand new. This post is to serve as a warning in to how they deal with situations like this. I was given a case number and told that someone would be reaching out to me. After a week I decided I would check in because no one had called me. After being unable to get in touch with anyone at GM I decided to call the dealership. That was the point where they told me the plan to rebuild the transmission. All of this was taking place without my knowledge and before I had been given any information. Apparently my advocate at GM that was working on the case was unable to get in touch with the service department at the dealership so the matter was being tabled...I guess. Today I called again was not able to get in touch with my designated "Senior Account" rep. I told the person on the phone I would really appreciate speaking to someone else that could help me. Twenty minutes later they came back to the phone and said they were unable to find that person or a supervisor. The suggestion was to wait until someone would call me back within 24 hours. After not receiving a phone call the first time, I was hesitant to do this but did anyway. I got a call from my senior account rep a few minutes later saying they were still waiting on information from the dealership regarding the repairs. How was I able to get the information before they were if they were working on my behalf? Anyway, I am now attempting to get GM to take the car back or replace it because I do not trust a car that has transmission issues before reaching 1000 miles. Has anyone gone through this process? I had a Tahoe before this car that had no issues and used to advocate for the quality. The way this situation has been handled by the company is very eye opening.
  5. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  6. I need help with my 1999 4 door 4x4 Chevrolet tahoe. It sat in the yard without a battery in it for a few months. When I put a battery in it and tried to crank it the anti theft wouldn't let it. It starts for a second or 2 and immediately cuts off. A friend of mine put a jumper wire from the I believe pink and orange wires in the steering column saying it would bypass the anti theft And it worked. Crunk up fine. No problem. Well then he touched a wire to something or another wire and it sparked. And now it won't start again. If anyone has any information that might help me it would be appreciated
  7. Hey guys, i have a 2005 gmc yukon with electric fans. It is the 5.3 and the electric fans will not turn on. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the relays and it is still inop. If i send 12v to the fans they will turn on and constant power is getting too the two 4 prong relays my tools will not fit to test the 5 prong. None of the fueses are blown either and relays have resistance to them. It has a slight hickup on startup but not much of one and sadly no they do not work with the ac on the temp will go straight past 210 when parked
  8. I just traded our 2012 BMW X5 diesel (3.0L Inline-6 asymmetrical twin-turbo, 265hp, 425tq) for a 2018 Suburban. The turbodiesel performed brilliantly in that 5200 lb SUV, and you could easily get 26-28 mpg on road trips, and it did north of 20 mpg average in local driving. I've been saying for years that a lot of these mid to large-sized SUVs are just screaming for 6-cylinder class diesel engines, so it's nice to finally see them popping up. I'd love to see this engine be an option in the next gen Suburban/Tahoe and the Yukons. Who else?
  9. Hopefully I didn't miss this being posted already, if so, I'm sorry. I have a 2004 Tahoe, 2WD, 4.8L, 4L60E. Transmission went out, I have a 1999 Silverado 5.3L, 4L60E 4x4 with transfer case. The only thing I noticed different besides having the transfer case and extra plugs on the 99 harness for said transfer case, is the neutral safety switch on the 99 4x4 trans has a 2 plug harness vs my 2004 Tahoe trans with a single harness plug. Am I able to use this 4x4 trans in my 2WD Tahoe? I'm assuming I could swap the safety switch, and leave the front driveshaft off? Also finding a rear driveshaft off of a 4x4 Tahoe since mine and the donor truck's driveshaft would be too long, I'd assume? I've been told I could and I've been told I couldn't. I've swapped transmissions before, but never done anything like this, so I'd just like some insight if someone could help me on this topic I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
  10. I have a 2007 Tahoe 2wd, 5.3L. The transmission gets hot, 190-200 degrees F, only when in overdrive. If I shift down to 3rd, the temp will start to decrease. Has anybody had this problem before or know of any solutions? Thanks.
  11. Zane Merva Executive Editor / Publisher, GM-Trucks.com March 22nd, 2019 The all new Chevy Suburban & Tahoe along with the all new GMC Yukon have been caught testing on public roads once again. We've licensed these images so we can show you the very first look at production lighting for these future 2020 model year vehicles. The last time we saw pre-production models of GM's full-size SUVs was last fall when the 2020 Tahoe and Yukon were caught on film for the first time. This time, the trucks look more complete and almost ready for action. Here's what our spy photographer has to say about the 2020 Suburban, Tahoe and Yukon: And here are the images:
  12. About a month ago I purchased a 16 Tahoe LTZ with 37,000 miles. My driver side seat cooling works great on both the seat and the backrest. But on my passenger side I noticed that the seat section does not cool at all only the backrest is cool on that side. I’ve compared it with the driver side and I’m convinced there is an issue. Can anyone provide some insight as to what could be wrong? Are there 2 separate fans for the backrest and the seat? What should I look for and try before I take it in for service? Thanks in advance.
  13. I am going to look at a 2001 Chevy Tahoe tomorrow that I think I can pickup for a pretty decent deal. He originally had it posted for $4500 and has been reducing the price slowly. I've been talking to him the last couple of days and I think I can pick it up around $3000 +/-. It's has a Magunson MP112 supercharger installed, all leather, 200K miles, and the body looks to be in excellent shape. The interior seems to be in fair condition, with some minor wear and tear. He said recently it threw a check engine light for a random misfire on cylinder number six at idle. He did a tune up on it thinking it was bad plugs/wires but it still is present. I talked to my buddy about it and he think's since it is only at idle, it's probably a lazy injector which I agree. It hasn't been for sale that long but I think the way he has it listed, it is hard to find so that's probably why someone hasn't picked it up yet. I found it by accident honestly lol. Does this sound like a pretty decent deal if everything checks out? Also, is there an easy way to test the injector? I can bring a code reader from work but he seems like a pretty honest guy. The mileage doesn't really scare me if it has been maintained well. Hell my 2005 Silverado 1500 has 219K on the clock and I drive it everyday and wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. He also just had new tires put on which tells me he was planning on keeping it at least for a little while otherwise he wouldn't have wasted the funds for that. For me that is kind of a tell tale sign if it's a decent rig if someone is willing to spend the coin on some new skins for it. Reason for sale is supposedly to free up some cash. Let me know your thoughts, I'd sure appreciate it.
  14. Hi guys, Do anyone else have this issue where the tailgate warning (the green/amber car logo on the cluster screen) is always green when a vehicle is detected? It should become ember if you don't keep enough distance from the car in front The adaptive cruise control and forward collision warning works so I assume the system does know how far the car in front is but the light doesn't change.
  15. Hey Guys, wondering which colour combination you think is best for the Suburban/Yukon XLs for exterior and interior? I know colour and taste is subjective but would like to see what everyone has picked! If you can post some pictures of your vehicle that would be awesome. I quite like the iridium metallic or black but still undecided on interior colour. I have a feeling if I go black on black it would feel like I'm driving an airport taxi haha (but it does look really nice though). So post some pictures if you can and why you chose that colour, if not thanks for looking at this thread! Cheers
  16. I just saw a Tahoe LT on my way home from work using the LEDs as DRLs at full 100% brightness just like the LTZ models. Yes, I am sure it was a LT model and it looked totally stock even with the entry level honeycomb pattern grille. He was going the opposite way so I couldn't stop him to ask. Someone out there has figured it out! Does anyone have an update for this mod?
  17. ITEM PRICE: $1,500 ITEM LOCATION FOR PICK UP: Dallas Texas NOTE ABOUT SHIPPING: If you cover the cost, I'm happy to make sure they are to the shipping provider and protected. USHIP.com quotes will be $100-250 depending on where you live. CONTACT INFO: Text message is best (anytime) 512-944-0307 I'm selling my Full Set of Factory OEM Chevrolet wheels pulled off a 2016 Tahoe LTZ. The tires are Nitto Terra Grappler G2 size 305/45r22 and have 50% tread left. I had to pull the Tire Pressure sensors out for a new set so they do not have them inside the tire. I have both GMC or Chevrolet caps. Buyer's choice of either option. Please let me know if you have any questions, will not last long at this price. Details on wheels Below: 22" 22in 04-17 NEW Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Suburban OEM WHEELS SET 4 5696 22" 22in 04-17 NEW Chevrolet Silverado Tahoe Suburban OEM WHEELS SET 4 5696 Quantity: 4 Color: Hyper Silver Manufacturer Part Number: 22905550, 22912545 Rim Material: Aluminum Alloy Bolt Pattern: 6x139.7 Brand: Chevrolet Wheel Cap: NOTE that the cap has a chrome bowtie Interchange Part Number: 560-5696, ALY5696, WAO.5696 Hub Bore: 78.1 Number of Bolts: 6 Type: Genuine OEM Rim Width: 9
  18. Hi,, I am a new member and I am glad to have joined this forum. I have a 2018 Tahoe Premier and I tried to get answers to my questions but I couldn't find any.. 1) The vehicle has a feature to auto tilt mirrors on reverse , and it is good feature, but how can I disable the feature (just for a few second i.e. switching back and forth instantaneously ) without going through the in-dash screen? The mirrors are too small and tilting them make it hard to see obstacles behind, although they are good to see side walk edges. I knew that the mirrors have a time frame and it will auto raise to original position even while gear is still on reverse. 2) Is there a way to switch off auto dimming for the mirrors (just for a few second i.e. switching back and forth as well)? Thanks to all
  19. Hey guys just bought a 2016 Chevy Tahoe LTZ on November 10 and it has been shaking and vibrating at speed above 67mph. I noticed a lot of vibration driving on the way home the first day,so took it back the very next day. The dealer did balancing and gave it back to me but it still vibrated so took it back the next day again. This time dealer kept it for 2 days and replaced 2 tires which could not be balanced and then gave it to me. The truck still had the vibration so I took it back immediately and asked them to look at it. The mechanic acknowledged that vibration is present and said that it is normal and all of them do this. So I test drove an indentical suv and that did not vibrate. So the dealer kept it another few days and are now changing all the tires again. At this point I think there is something wrong with the suv as it has been in the shop for more days than I have driven it. It has only 500 miles and all are due to service advisors's test rides to check for shake. Dealer has been courteous so far but I don't think they have a clue about what is wrong with it. Any pointers what could be the problem? I am seeing lot of other posts with similar problems on the forums but no resolution so far. Reached out to GM but no replies so far. Very concerned and frustrated with this purchase.
  20. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 10-9-2018 U.S. News & World Report is run by and staffed by colleagues of GM-Trucks.com. Each month they scour the best deals in the country to list out the most notable. This month, GM products earned spots on two of their lists. The 2018 Acadia is on both the 7 Best Cars to Buy Now and also October's Best New Car Deals. U.S. News Autos reports that GM is offering $4,000 cash back on that popular model. The 2018 Chevy Tahoe appears on the second list for its special offer of $3,000 cash back if buyers finance through GM.
  21. We are proud to announce the "GT" line of gauge faces. They are available in white or satin, you can preorder them now, however they will not start shipping until october 30th check out https://usdashworks.com/product/style-gt/ to check them out and place your order.
  22. I hope this is the appropriate sub group, if it is not, I would appreciate an admin moving it to the right one if possible. I have a 2008 Tahoe with door lock issues. All 4 doors are acting up, I know the left rear motor is out, because it will not move at all, but the other three are acting strange. Usually, on first try, all the doors will unlock, or lock with the remote or when put in drive or park as expected. A little weak, but work. But if the button (remote or door buttons) are pushed several more times, the locks do not lock or unlock. They act like they want to and move a little, but do not move completely. THe more I push the buttons, the weaker they get. I thought the actuators or motors migght be bad, but they do move, just not enough. But on some occasions, usually first try when going to the vehicle, they work normal. Do I just change the door actuators, or is there a different problem I should be looking at? Thanks for any advice. Oren H.
  23. Hi- I need to replace the ABS control assembly for my 2006 LT 5.3 Tahoe. The problem is that I do not know what the RPO codes mean and which options I need for the assembly. There seem to be options for 4x4 (Which I know) Police option (I don't need) Traction Option (I don't know- I have stabilitrack?) 20" wheel option (I don't know) Active Brake control (I don't know) The last 8 of my vin are 6J147237
  24. I have a 2004 yukon with a slight oil leak. Not sure where it’s coming from bu found a small hairline crack in oil pan. What’s the best way to remedy this? Weld it, epoxy it, or replace it? Is it even an issue if it’s a small leak or can it catastrophically fail one day?
  25. 2016 Tahoe rough idle I have a 2016 Tahoe Z71 that has been to the dealership 3 times for a rough idle. The motor mounts have been replaced as per the bulletin from GM but the vehicle still idles rough at stops and sometimes in Park. I contacted GM customer service the last time I took it in and got an email stating that they were concerned that I was having issues and customer satisfaction was their goal in this issue. So I tried emailing and calling the number I was given and left several different messages but got no response. After about 2 weeks a senior customer service representative contacted me by phone. He stated he had researched my vehicle’s history and saw that the motor mounts had been replaced and at this time there was nothing else that could be done. He said that the rough idle was a “characteristic of the vehicle”, it does not effect the performance or integrity of the motor. He then went on to say that there is a bulletin out for this issue and further investigation is being done to fix this issue and when there is one they will fix my truck. Wow! If it is a characteristic of the vehicle why is it being further investigated to be fixed? I drive a 2012 Tahoe for work everyday and it idles in Park for at least 9 hours a day and still that work truck does not idle rough like my personal vehicle. It’s sad to see the quality of vehicles GM is putting out to their customers. You hear buy American but it’s hard to when u have issues like this. So much for GM’s customer satisfaction when they tell u there is nothing else that can be done for the $60K vehicle you bought from us that does not run the way it is suppose to. I’m sure there is a lot of you out there with this same issue. Wondering if anybody has gotten any kind of fix for this? Thank you RDOrtiz11
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