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Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219

Hello! 21 RST, just bought a seat set from a 21 LTZ. I read on here about the WAMS programming and was able to get my hands on a cheap set! Well, now they are en route to me and WAMS is unable to do them now. Has anyone else been able to get the programming done? Thanks!!

I bought a 2023 new body style Silverado 1500 LT the only issue im having is that the passenger seat isn’t electric its a manual, has anyone done the swap from manual to electric ? if so how complicated is it

Seen this driving the other day. Interior looks like an Escalade but rear end makes me think otherwise couldn’t get a look at the front. https://imgur.com/a/n7lLtJC IMG_2143.MOV

I'm looking to do a full interior swap/update on my '99 silverado, don't know much about interior fabrication but i'm going to do what I have to in order to make it work. For now I plan on taking everything I can out of a part-out silverado from 2014 or newer and throwing it straight into my truck. If anybody has any tips or prior knowledge from a project of the same nature any help would be appreciated. From what I could find, not many people have documented this sort of thing on YouTube and the ones who have only show off the final product instead of the full process or steps they needed to take in order to get what I'm looking for.

Picked up my Custom Trail Boss yesterday and I really like the truck, mechanically speaking. My biggest beef is with the interior storage options. Specifically the fact the center console doesn't have a storage compartment even though the thing is huge and the owner's manual shows there should be a storage compartment. There's not a storage compartment under the seatback either, despite what appears to be a HUGE empty cushion sitting there. I have a Z71 Suburban, so I know I'm spoiled but this is crazy how few places there are to store stuff in the cab. I'm hoping a better center console can be swapped out, but I'm worried about what options may exist with the rear seat power and air vents. Let me know if anyone comes across anything that can be added or modified to increase the utility for the front seat passengers. Thanks!

I keep hearing an interior rear cabin rattle noise when hitting bumps or rough roads. Sounds like it is coming from the interior rear cabin wall were the rear mirror is located. Has anyone experienced this issue? The second rattle noise is coming from the driver side seat belt pillar or door. The rattle noise almost sounds like plastic hitting plastic. Any ideas or has anyone experienced this?

Have 4 - 300 watt light bars on my roof rack and 4 - 103 watt cree’s on the winch mount. Decided to run all the wiring to a central location vs mix and match I did over time. So purchased a 6 rocker switch panel with 3 12V outlets, double row. Went back-and-forth a week trying to think in my head where I wanted to mount it to make it easily accessible, as I live in the mountains and when oncoming traffic is coming I need to be able to shut them off immediately! I knew overhead was the best place but didn’t want to go through the trouble. However now that it’s done it really wasn’t that much of an issue at all. I cut the sunglass holder 3/4 of the way out and it only over fills the entire consul by about a 1/4 inch. If I hadn’t already bought this panel and knew today was the only day I could do the project for a few weeks, I would have waited and not used the 3 outlets and just went with a single row panel of 6 (8 best) rocker switches as that would’ve been very neat, clean and looked much more custom! For anyone looking to do it, the absolute best looking would be 8 rocker switches on a single row panel for an absolute perfect fit! But I was impatient and wasn’t going to toss $50 out the door for the panel I had so wound up force fitting into the console. This doesn’t look horrible and I think I’ll be able to live with it but if it gets the best of me and my OCD, I can always order a new console with the 8 switches as the wiring is already there and would be a simple project. Any questions feel free to ask! I’ll post pictures shortly.

I'm looking to replace the driver's seat base (frame) in 3500HD WT with one that is height adjustable. The OE base is manually adjustable fore and aft, and for seat back inclination. My wife can't see over the long hood. I don't want to go with the riser rails available on Ebay as those would elevate me too high. So basically I'm looking for someone that has a 3 way adjustable manual seatbase on their truck to contact me so I can get the right part, the first time. If your manual seat has fore and aft, seat back inclination, as well as vertical height, send me a PM so we can discuss off thread. Thanks in advance. Slim

I have a set of OEM front and rear all weather floor mats for sale. Part number: 84521602 photo is of the rear mats, can’t upload both photos because of the size but the front are in same condition. Lightly used, had them in my personal vehicle for about 6 months. New they’re $150, asking for $65+ Shipping. Will send with USPS.

Looking to buy some interior wood trim. Let me know if you have any for sale.

So I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT 5.3 Extended Cab Texas Edition. I've had the truck going on 8 years now, but the trim has started to get loose. I've replaced body clips but some of the plastic has begun to break. I've searched junk yards, and auto lots with no luck to replacement. I tried GMdirect for the trim but still unable to find interior trim for this truck. It shakes and rattles over bumps like crazy, back door trim fell off. I've used foam to help quiet the rattling but if the trim doesn't stay on, there's no point. Might be from the back doors rattling (cannot figure that out either). Does anyone have a website link other than GMdirect for where I can find the interior trim replacement? Thank you!