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Showing results for tags '2009'.
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Hello Everyone! Before I get started I want to thank anyone in advanced who responds with pertinent information. I'm looking for a replacement exhaust system for my 09 Silverado 6.2L 4x4 Crew Cab/Short Bed. My current system has lots of rust (living in MD, they heavily salt & brine the roads here) and has sprung an exhaust leak right behind the muffler on one of the pipes. I've been searching around (thought it would be easy to find a system) but have not had luck in finding what I have been searching for. There are plenty of systems for 5.3L & 6.0L motors but scant any for 6.2L. On my truck currently is an aftermarket cat back system that was there when I bought the truck (not sure which brand.) It is a single in / dual out muffler with dual pipes going out the bumper. Questions: What is the factory flange diameter at the end of the factory Y pipe? I'm seeing conflicting information (this will help me determine what muffler to buy if I piece meal a system together) If you have any suggested systems, here's what I'm looking for Material: 304L Stainless Steel Volume: Loud/Agressive Configuration: Dual exit at rear bumper I'd consider a long tube header setup w/ high flow cats as well (I would like to maintain all emissions equipment) any suggestions there are also welcome. I can always get a quote from a shop but I wanted to shop around first before I did that. -
So, My 2009 Yukon Denali throws the "service battery charging system" message on a daily basis. The little red battery light comes on as well and stays on for varying times. The message seems to only come on while the truck is idling or moving at slow speeds (like when I drive down my muddy driveway or stopped at a light). The battery light may be displayed anywhere between 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Performance of the truck doesn't seem to be hurt in any way however the voltage gauge doesn't stay super consistent while driving. I had the old battery checked and replaced shortly after I bought the truck a couple of months back since it had trouble starting. Other daily symptoms include flickering lights and screens while at idle. Yes, the battery cables are corrosion free and securely attached to the battery itself. Anyone else experience or have a solution to this issue? Thanks! -Eric
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Hi everybody, I have an electrical issue with my Silverado 2008, I need the manual. Other members shared this some years ago but now isn't in dropbox. I hope someone could share me the repair manual again. https://www.dropbox.com/s/rflvemxjpqfc4h4/Gmc_Sierra_Service_Manual_Repair_Manual_Fsm_2007-2009_Download.zip?dl=0
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Hey Techs, I own a GMC Sierra 1500 2009, I don't have a remote start feature on my FOB. In my manual it states "If your vechile does not have the remote vechile start feature, it may have the remote start ready feature" If I do, is it possbile buying just the FOB with the start feature and getting a technician to program it for me? Or even doing it myself? I know there's a option on my dash when I skim through my odometer, tachometer, etc. theres something that I remember seeing called remote key. Maybe a way to program the remote starter? If not does anyone know how much a GM technition charge for a factory remote starter? Thanks.
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Alright gang, I've got an '09 Yukon Denali that was having cruise control issues from time to time. I replaced the brake light switch which seemed to solve that issue but shortly after I had the service stabilitrak/traction control message display come up as well as a glowing ABS light. The switch was replaced a couple of weeks back. The traction control/stabilitrak message has illuminated maybe 5 or 6 times since and only comes on when I have stopped at a light or a stop sign. I know this may be a wheel speed sensor issue but the fact it showed up shortly after changing the brake light switch has be scratching my head. Anyone have a stabilitrak cure? Thanks for any input. -
Hello guys!! So i have a GMC Sierra 2500 HD 2009 (6.0 V8 Gas engine Crew Cab) and i wanted to give it a better look so i decided to use a leveling kit. When i installed the leveling kit on my truck, the truck had a really great stance with the front and back leveled. BUT, here is where the problem started. The truck became really rough and i could feel every pothole and bump on the street and off-road. At first i didn't really know what the problem was until i realized that i lost all the travel distance between my upper control arms and the frame. I was very disappointed because i had the looks but not the comfort. However, that was the cheap way of having a lifted look. Now i'm thinking of installing a full 6" lift kit to my truck. However, i'm having some doubts and thoughts about the lift kit. I did some research for many months now, checked many forums and watched many videos, non of which really told me anything about the travel distance (I attached a picture to show what i mean) between the upper control arms and frame after the 6" lift kit installation. I know i will have to do some modifications to some parts on the truck to fit the 6" lift kit parts, which is fine. What i really want to know is: After installing a 6" lift kit, will i have a comfy ride? Meaning, will the travel distance issue be gone? When offroading with the truck after installing the 6" lift kit, will i have enough travel distance to make some small (Very small jumps) and not feel a rough ride during offroading? Is it gonna be a problem for me after installing the 6" lift kit to tow anything? will towing damage my truck (with the lift installed)? What is the best 6" lift kit to put on a 2009 2500HD crew cab? What defines a good lift kit? I have seen many lift kits and almost all the lift kits look or have something different, even when both are used to give the same lift size. Why is that? Please give me advice or help with this issue. Thank you. -
Hello all, This is my first post on this forum. Last year I bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext cab LT with a 5.3l V8 that is Flexfuel capable. Well, I never intended to use flex fuel, but last week, I did so on the spur of the moment. We drove about 3/4 of the tank gone. Then as I was pulling up to the gas station to refill before going out of town for work, my truck's idle began dropping and feeling like it is about to stall out at idle. This happens whether park is engaged or not. I filled up, put some seafoam in my tank and drove about 1.5 hours to work. It continued to idle like this all throughout the trip and even later when I went out and sat at idle while on my break. What could be the problem? I can't imagine that an engine that is meant for flex fuel could get that messed up by it. A side note: we had the transmission rebuilt in January, just in case that makes a different. It has only been a few weeks since last oil change. All fluids were checked and filled up at that time and have been checked a couple of times since.
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New to the forum and thought I would inquire if anyone has some advice in regards to a starting problem I am having. Thank you for reading this. For starters, the SUV is a 2009 GMC Yukon XL SLT 5.3L SFI Flex Fuel (120K miles and oil change light is on, changed oil but have not reset light indicator as I have been playing with starting issue). For the last few weeks it has had a strange intermittent starting issue. When you turn the key to the acc position the battery reads correctly and matches my meter with all electronics working. However, when I would turn the key to the next position (ignition). It would just click. So I would turn it off and then retry with no luck starting. When held in full ignition position it would click and click and then start. as long as you held it in place for a good 5-10 seconds. I checked the battery again and ran tests on it. Brand new battery and no issues. I checked battery cables and grounds with no red flags. I removed the starter relay and jumped 30/87 and confirmed the starter itself has no issue. The starter kicks on and sounds good. Yesterday, I went to start it with a fully charged battery and it would only click. Doors would try and lock and unlock during the process but it would not start. I got out of the vehicle and locked the doors. use the FOB to remote start and the vehicle started with no issues. I got into the SUV and tried the key, and it started right up. Started it a number of times with the parking brake on, parking brake off with no luck in recreating the problems. However, I feel that it's only getting worse with no real answers and no way to recreate the problems or how to solve. Which is why I am here. I have googled quite a bit and read a number of posts here, but no real solution. So I am hoping someone can point me in the correct direction. I love troubleshooting but this is bit annoying. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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So I was wanting to lift my 2009 1500 Silverado a considerable amount. I was think atleast 6". Does anyone know about how much that would cost for parts and labor?
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hi I have a 2009 GMC Sierra with a 5.3 L engine with 4l60e transmission with 4x4 and I want to make 550 horsepower how can I achieve that thnx -
sometimes when I slow down I hear some wierd clunk noises from 75mph i I have a 2009 GMC Sierra 4x4 4l60e
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Question for you folks here - The local dealership said I am due for some new struts on the ol' truck (2009 silverado crew cab) when I went to take it in for an oil change. Now I typically like to do everything myself, but am currently stuck in Missouri for another year so I don't have access to my garage. Anyway, they quoted me at $580 to get the front done. So i was planning to shop around or even see if I could bang it out in a carport. However, now when I go to stop, I've noticed something odd. Sometimes when I apply pressure to the brakes I get a squeel (may be time for new brakes but we've also gotten a lot of rain) and after I come to a complete "stop", the truck kind of lurches forward and groans a little. It doesn't do it every time, but enough that I'm starting to notice. Would this be due to the warn out struts or should I investigate the brakes further? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Not to be to cliche...but Help please. So here is the full run down. About a year ago my Yukon started what i can only call a severe hesitation, it got so bad that i took it to the dealership. They had it for a month and a half and claimed to have replaced everything but the computer with "known good" parts. I was unwilling to spend 2000 on a computer and reprogram that may not be the problem. This year it got so bad i bought a computer from LKQ and had it programmed by the dealer. It seemed better but never went completely away. I have since replaced the throttle position sensor, Maf Sensor, Cleaned the K&N filter and completely cleaned the throttle body, all of which the dealership claimed to have already swapped, but I just couldnt believe that once all that was done it didnt fix it. I considered trading her in, but just cant part with her. She has no codes and idles fine, its just when I press the pedal it feels like its just bogging down. It is odd to me that when I replaced the computer, and cleaned the maf it got so much better. I am desperate. My hope is one of you is that guy who knows everything and know exactly what it is. I have read every forum i could find and just cant find anything that matches my symptoms exactly. Please Help, Thank you in advance -
I finally up graded my suspension lift on my truck to a 6" RCX lift in conjunction with a 1.25 RC body lift. so in total im running 7" of lift on my 2009 Chevy silverado 1500. i would like to run 35" tires with 18" wheels. i currently run 34" on 20" wheels and dont like how thin they are. im wondering about back spacing recommended to do this. im already planning on trimming some off the front and doing the "NorCal" fender mod. im new to worrying about back spacing so all knowledge and recommendations are welcomed. Thanks! pics of the lift are not up yet pics on my profile are outdated
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Over last couple of months my 2009 Silverado 5.3L stalls once it's warm...meaning the first time I start it for the day it starts right up. But after it is driven 10-15 minutes and you make a stop, the next time you fire it up, it stalls as soon as it catches fire. 7-8 times in a row. Even trying to use the accelerator to keep it running proves tough unless you really gun it, which I don't like doing in even oil pressure isn't high enough. This truck I bought new and it mostly sits in my driveway during the week and is used on weekends for hauling a boat, motorcycles or doing yard work. It has about 23k miles on it and is well maintained. I am wondering if it has EFI buildup from all the ethanol in the gas these days that plague smaller motors, or if it has some moisture in the system somewhere. Any ideas would be appreciated before I send it to the dealer to be looked at.
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I'm selling a 4 wheel set of 20" wheels off my 2009 Sierra. I'm one of the lucky folks that has had the chrome covers fall off the cladding. Not on one but two wheels. As you know, GM will not let you buy the chrome cap only. They force you to purchas an entirely new rim. I just decided to buy new wheels and tires, So, I have the old ones left. I will sell them as individual wheels or as the set. You can see in the picture that all four wheels do not match each other. I'm selling the set of four for $300. Walton Ky (Greater Cincinnati Ohio ) The Michelin tires still have some tread left on them.
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My 2010 Sierra Crew Cab has the automatic climate controls and a problem that may be more common than I think. The temperature on the driver side doesn't warm up no matter the temp setting while the passenger side seems to work just fine. I tried switching between Auto and Manual modes, doesn't help. I hear a click down by my feet which I assume is the blend door actuator for my side. What is involved in changing the blend door actuator? How do I know that's the problem and not the controller? Why do the fail? Do the plastic gears break or the little motor burn up? Any suggestions or diagrams of the heater box would be very helpful. Thanks.
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Hi, I am a new owner of a 2009 GMC 2500 SLE. I love the truck, but hate the contast of the big truck with the small wheels. Looks like a body build who doesn't do legs. I am looking to upgrading to larger tires, possibly wheels. I want something to beef up the tires of my truck with a small budget. Any help out there would be great! Thanks, yall.
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Just wanted to say I cleaned my throttle today and I saw an immediate difference in the truck. everyone with a rough idle or a vibration at 900-1000 rpm should look into this. both were problems I had and after cleaning the throttle and intake my idle is so smooth I have to stare at the needle to see any movement. also if you look back at my posts I had a vibration at 1000 rpm or so and so far that seems gone as well, If there is any change I will update this post for future reference to anyone that reads this. by the way the truck is a 2009 Silverado 5.3 ext cab z71 with afm. hope this helps anyone else with those problems
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From the album: Missouri Silverado
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From the album: Missouri Silverado
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From the album: Missouri Silverado
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From the album: Missouri Silverado
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From the album: Missouri Silverado
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From the album: Missouri Silverado
