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Showing results for tags '2011'.
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Maybe this will help anyone who has a truck that turns over, but won't start. P1682 is the code on the computer... Here are the technical details on this code: P1682 Chevrolet Description There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set. P1682 Chevrolet - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Possible causes - Faulty ignition switch - Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted - Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) When is the code detected? The ECM has detected a voltage diference between two circuits Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible no crank or start I decided to replace the ignition switch because that's what other people had done and it was cheaper than a dealership diagnostic. Besides this one code, my instrument console also threw up warnings about servicing the traction control, anti-lock brake system and some other alarming messages. Including that the engine power was reduced! The ignition switch on my 2011 Silverado is part # 40 in this diagram: To get at it you probably need to drop the interior trim panel below the steering column. Once that's done you need to pull out the steering wheel tilt lever part #20. It should unplug strait out with a screwdriver. Then you unclip the plastic shroud part #22 and #1 Then you unclip the connector going to the Key Chip Sensor #2. And unclip the wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch. CAUTION: You might have a red plastic locking clip in the harness that needs to be disengaged before the connector will come out. The next step is to remove the lock cylinder. You'll need a pick. Here is a video of someone doing it on a similar vehicle: You can then unclip the Key Chip Sensor #2 and set it aside. You will then have to unhook the white key sensor that that's mounted on the ignition switch case #3 you just removed the key cylinder from. You'll need a small screw driver to push on a plastic tab to unlock it. Once that's done it should rotate easily for removal. If you break it off, it's not a big deal since it's part of the ignition switch you're replacing... even so, I'd practice on this one so you'll be better at removing it if need be in a later step: You can now remove the ignition switch. You'll need two small screw drivers or nails to push into the two square holes to the left and right of the "black hole" shown in the picture below: This video is also good to watch before starting this project: Now the ignition switch I pulled out of my 2011 Silverado was GM Part #25733005 ; D1485F (DO NOT USE) The dealership I contacted said that part had been replaced with GM Part# 22887691 which makes sense since the previous one died. Hopefully the new part lasts longer! Installing the switch is pretty much a reverse of the original process. The only issue is that you need to get your ignition cylinder and the switch gears aligned properly. I had to remove and replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder (and the key security chip reader) a few times before I was able to get the gears on the switch to be correct. (The guy in the second video explains how to align it, but I either didn't pay close enough attention or couldn't do it quite right) You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again. Hope this helps someone else!
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I bought a 2011 GMC Sierra just over a month ago from my dad and the volt meter on the dash is reading about 16. The alternator and battery were both changed in the spring. I put an LED taillight strip on a few weeks ago and I'm thinking it could possibly have something to do with that? When I was driving home for the holidays I got ago halfway and the check engine light came on but then went away later that night after it had been sitting for a while. When I was on my way back the light came back on and hasn’t went off. The command start also doesn’t work when the light is on.
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2011 Chevrolet Silverado LT Extended Cab 4WD Long Bed Four Wheel Drive 120K miles Tonneau cover with new lift struts LED bed lights Running boards installed 12/2017 6 seats (front center console folds down into a seat) Clean title. THIS TRUCK IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION! Interior is perfect Exterior is perfect Runs like new! No warning lights 6-speed transmission with tow/haul mode and manual gear select Towing package with integrated trailer brake controller Michelin tires, excellent condition all around. Dash mat Chevrolet Stereo Bluetooth w/ CD player and USB and auxiliary inputs OnStar I have had this truck since 2014. Some preventative maintenance items since then: New battery last year (Duralast Gold) Always used synthetic oil every 3K to 4K miles Rear differential fluid was flushed at 97K miles Upgraded cooling, including a thicker radiator, extra transmission cooler and extra engine oil cooler. Upgraded rear air shocks (Monroe Max-Air)
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Hey everyone I am new to this forum and tried my best to search what I was looking for but I am also a girl who’s not familiar with all these things. I have a Chevy 2011, 2 wheel drive with 18 inch stock rims. I was wanting to know what is the biggest size tire I can get that does not rub that would fit. It is not lifted or leveled. Thank you.
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Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe. -
So I installed a new airaid mit the other day and after installing it while driving it will go into reduced power mode, at first I thought it was only at full throttle it would do it but now im on the side of the road after it did it at normal throttle. Any idea what could cause this and what I can do about it? -
I'm wondering if this will even get close to lining up? Anyone out there done a swap like this?
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Alright so I’ve been wanting to to the 6l80 swap in my 2011 rcsb 4.8/4l60 for a while now. Not for gas mileage or anything like that, simply because I want to. I am capable of doing the swap and have a tuner, just need to know what all is needed. Thanks! -
I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 5.3l Flex fuel. I recently filled up my gas tank at a gas station I don't like but had to. Since then I've been getting a P2135 along with P0135,P0121,P0242,P004. I think the other ones are related to the throttle body one and it running so bad when the reduce power mode and stability track turned off occur. It has been below zero this entire week and I don't know if that's playing a part in it or not. I removed and cleaned the throttle body but this didn't help. Any suggestions before I just start replacing parts?
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GM-Trucks.com 2011 Project Sierra All-Terrain SLT
Zane posted a gallery image in Black Truck Club's Black Truck Gallery
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From the album: The Replacement
Not much clearance, but never had an issue with rubbing or grabbing until I put aftermarket mud flap because of the rocks the tires throw. But even then it was only when turning the wheel all the way in -
Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million vehicles have been recalled so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Source: Yahoo Finance
