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Showing results for tags '2011'.
Found 22 results
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I bought a 2011 GMC Sierra just over a month ago from my dad and the volt meter on the dash is reading about 16. The alternator and battery were both changed in the spring. I put an LED taillight strip on a few weeks ago and I'm thinking it could possibly have something to do with that? When I was driving home for the holidays I got ago halfway and the check engine light came on but then went away later that night after it had been sitting for a while. When I was on my way back the light came back on and hasn’t went off. The command start also doesn’t work when the light is on.
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2011 Chevrolet Silverado LT Extended Cab 4WD Long Bed Four Wheel Drive 120K miles Tonneau cover with new lift struts LED bed lights Running boards installed 12/2017 6 seats (front center console folds down into a seat) Clean title. THIS TRUCK IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION! Interior is perfect Exterior is perfect Runs like new! No warning lights 6-speed transmission with tow/haul mode and manual gear select Towing package with integrated trailer brake controller Michelin tires, excellent condition all around. Dash mat Chevrolet Stereo Bluetooth w/ CD player and USB and auxiliary inputs OnStar I have had this truck since 2014. Some preventative maintenance items since then: New battery last year (Duralast Gold) Always used synthetic oil every 3K to 4K miles Rear differential fluid was flushed at 97K miles Upgraded cooling, including a thicker radiator, extra transmission cooler and extra engine oil cooler. Upgraded rear air shocks (Monroe Max-Air)
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Hey everyone I am new to this forum and tried my best to search what I was looking for but I am also a girl who’s not familiar with all these things. I have a Chevy 2011, 2 wheel drive with 18 inch stock rims. I was wanting to know what is the biggest size tire I can get that does not rub that would fit. It is not lifted or leveled. Thank you.
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Have a custom mid-pipe I built to install an aftermarket muffler (Magnaflow 12909) in my 2015 2500hd 6.0 truck. I removed the muffler and went back to stock so have this left over. This makes a cleaner install and saves your mid pipe if you want to revert back to stock. The aftermarket mufflers don't have as much offset as factory and the factory mid-pipe has a offset in it that accounts for that. With this straight mid-pipe it works perfect with the less offset of the aftermarket muffler and allows everything to be installed level with the truck. Here is my post about the muffler with additional info: I had this on a crew cab, 6.5' bed 4x4 truck. I'm sure other cab/bed configurations might need this lengthened or shortened but at least the hard part of the flange and hangers are done. Asking $75 for this custom mid-pipe. How it looked installed. muffler not included. Factory muffler to show the drop offset in the original mid-pipe. -
Maybe this will help anyone who has a truck that turns over, but won't start. P1682 is the code on the computer... Here are the technical details on this code: P1682 Chevrolet Description There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set. P1682 Chevrolet - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Possible causes - Faulty ignition switch - Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted - Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) When is the code detected? The ECM has detected a voltage diference between two circuits Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible no crank or start I decided to replace the ignition switch because that's what other people had done and it was cheaper than a dealership diagnostic. Besides this one code, my instrument console also threw up warnings about servicing the traction control, anti-lock brake system and some other alarming messages. Including that the engine power was reduced! The ignition switch on my 2011 Silverado is part # 40 in this diagram: To get at it you probably need to drop the interior trim panel below the steering column. Once that's done you need to pull out the steering wheel tilt lever part #20. It should unplug strait out with a screwdriver. Then you unclip the plastic shroud part #22 and #1 Then you unclip the connector going to the Key Chip Sensor #2. And unclip the wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch. CAUTION: You might have a red plastic locking clip in the harness that needs to be disengaged before the connector will come out. The next step is to remove the lock cylinder. You'll need a pick. Here is a video of someone doing it on a similar vehicle: You can then unclip the Key Chip Sensor #2 and set it aside. You will then have to unhook the white key sensor that that's mounted on the ignition switch case #3 you just removed the key cylinder from. You'll need a small screw driver to push on a plastic tab to unlock it. Once that's done it should rotate easily for removal. If you break it off, it's not a big deal since it's part of the ignition switch you're replacing... even so, I'd practice on this one so you'll be better at removing it if need be in a later step: You can now remove the ignition switch. You'll need two small screw drivers or nails to push into the two square holes to the left and right of the "black hole" shown in the picture below: This video is also good to watch before starting this project: Now the ignition switch I pulled out of my 2011 Silverado was GM Part #25733005 ; D1485F (DO NOT USE) The dealership I contacted said that part had been replaced with GM Part# 22887691 which makes sense since the previous one died. Hopefully the new part lasts longer! Installing the switch is pretty much a reverse of the original process. The only issue is that you need to get your ignition cylinder and the switch gears aligned properly. I had to remove and replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder (and the key security chip reader) a few times before I was able to get the gears on the switch to be correct. (The guy in the second video explains how to align it, but I either didn't pay close enough attention or couldn't do it quite right) You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again. Hope this helps someone else!
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So I installed a new airaid mit the other day and after installing it while driving it will go into reduced power mode, at first I thought it was only at full throttle it would do it but now im on the side of the road after it did it at normal throttle. Any idea what could cause this and what I can do about it? -
I'm wondering if this will even get close to lining up? Anyone out there done a swap like this?
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Alright so I’ve been wanting to to the 6l80 swap in my 2011 rcsb 4.8/4l60 for a while now. Not for gas mileage or anything like that, simply because I want to. I am capable of doing the swap and have a tuner, just need to know what all is needed. Thanks! -
I have a 2011 GMC Sierra 5.3l Flex fuel. I recently filled up my gas tank at a gas station I don't like but had to. Since then I've been getting a P2135 along with P0135,P0121,P0242,P004. I think the other ones are related to the throttle body one and it running so bad when the reduce power mode and stability track turned off occur. It has been below zero this entire week and I don't know if that's playing a part in it or not. I removed and cleaned the throttle body but this didn't help. Any suggestions before I just start replacing parts?
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Hello everyone my name is Joe. And I want to say thank you for reading this. I hope somebody can help me fix my work truck. So the problem we got here is something with HVAC. I noticed it first happened in the summer. The air conditioning was only coming out of the defrost vent. With some troubleshooting I found out it was a vacuum line disconnected from the reservoir. Plugging that in fixed the issue and the air came out of all vents. I first thought it might have been the blend door actuator. So I took it out and tested the knobs and it worked so I put it back in. Now the problem I am having is that it is getting cold so I'm using heat now. The cold air will come out of all vents, but when I go to use the hot air, it only comes out of defrost. I can spin the knob to about the middle of cold and hot before all air goes to defrost. -
GM-Trucks.com 2011 Project Sierra All-Terrain SLT
Zane posted a gallery image in Black Truck Club's Black Truck Gallery
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From the album: The Replacement
Not much clearance, but never had an issue with rubbing or grabbing until I put aftermarket mud flap because of the rocks the tires throw. But even then it was only when turning the wheel all the way in -
GM Part # 19244248 brand new Genuine GM RSE Dual Headrest DVD System in Leather Ebony for a 2010-2011 Avalanche, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Silverado, and Sierra. The dual LCD Monitors and DVD players are mounted on the rear of the front seat headrests. Wireless headphones and a single remote control allow rear passengers to enjoy the audio program without disturbing the driver or other passengers. This system is not compatible with the factory rear seat entertainment option. $900 plus shipping. Retails at $1600. Bought to install and sold the vehicle. Go figure lol I'm sure it will fit other vehicle years just not sure which ones. Thanks for reading. Pm me or respond to this if you would like pictures
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My 2010 Sierra Crew Cab has the automatic climate controls and a problem that may be more common than I think. The temperature on the driver side doesn't warm up no matter the temp setting while the passenger side seems to work just fine. I tried switching between Auto and Manual modes, doesn't help. I hear a click down by my feet which I assume is the blend door actuator for my side. What is involved in changing the blend door actuator? How do I know that's the problem and not the controller? Why do the fail? Do the plastic gears break or the little motor burn up? Any suggestions or diagrams of the heater box would be very helpful. Thanks.
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Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million vehicles have been recalled so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Source: Yahoo Finance -
By Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 12/20/2014 The answer is looking like "yes". General Motors is actively preparing "contingency plans" in case the automaker has to issue another round of recalls related to the Takata Airbag scandal. According to Reuters and Yahoo, a spokesman for the company acknowledged yesterday that the GMT-900 based Chevrolet Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, GMC Sierra, Yukon, and Cadillac Escalade would be among the next vehicles recalled if the issue widened. Takata is a global airbag manufacturer who supplies parts to many automakers, including Honda, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, and General Motors. 7.8-million 21-million vehicles have been recalled globally so far for airbags that partially disintegrate, sending shrapnel flying when triggered. For comparison, General Motor produced over 6.5-million of the last generation pickups and SUVs from 2006 until 2013. It is unknown if the redesigned 2014+ models share similar versions of the potentially faulty airbag. GM-Trucks.com has contacted General Motors for clarification. General Motors said plans include forcing Takata to share the design of the airbag with its direct competitors to allow more production capacity. Stay with GM-Trucks.com for updates. As drivers of a 2011 GMC Sierra, we will be following this news closely. Update: General Motor's representative Alan Adler tells us "There are no known air bag issues with the GMT900 full-size trucks. There is no recall planned. GM uses multiple air bag suppliers, sometimes more than one on a vehicle. All air bags are tested as components, in systems and finally on vehicles before production begins." Update 2: 12/23/14 - GM would not clarify any additional statement and would not explain why the Reuters/Yahoo article mentioned the GMT-900 trucks if there was no concern. Source: Yahoo Finance
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So, we recently had a UOA done on the site's 2011 GMC Sierra project truck. We have the 5.3L and aside from the factory oil fill, we used Pennzoil Platinum synthetic on the first oil change. We've taken the truck out to 0% on the oil life monitor for each of the first two changes. The truck currently has under 20k miles. A few weeks ago we finally got around to performing the 2nd oil change. This time around, we filled up with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic. When draining the oil we grabbed a sample to send off for analysis. Here it is: Can anyone help me shed some light on how this UOA looks? Is it normal? I understand copper levels can be higher on these engines due to the oil cooler. Thanks for the help
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I wanted some approach lighting/ perimeter lighting for my truck. I think it looks cool and serves a purpose. I've never seen this done and I'm really happy with the results. These are the low power A-series Cool white lights form Rigid industries -
OEM chrome door handles (not cheap covers) and mirror covers from a 2013 GMC Sierra. Fits 07-13 Silverado and Sierra. Mirror covers have all plastic clips and none are broken. Asking for $150. You can PM or email at [email protected]
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Hey everybody... Glad I found this website... It helped me in my decision to purchase the truck I did on June 3rd, 2014.
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Side steps for 2011 Texas Edition LT. Chrome with black steps. $150 plus shipping.
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Just upgraded the a new 2014 Sierra, so these won't fit! They're in perfect condition!! Will fit 2007-2013 Extended cab trucks only! Brand new -- $199 plus shipping Asking $150 shipped to lower US! PM me or Call/Text 423-4OO-9626
