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Maybe this will help anyone who has a truck that turns over, but won't start. P1682 is the code on the computer... Here are the technical details on this code: P1682 Chevrolet Description There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set. P1682 Chevrolet - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Possible causes - Faulty ignition switch - Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted - Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) When is the code detected? The ECM has detected a voltage diference between two circuits Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible no crank or start I decided to replace the ignition switch because that's what other people had done and it was cheaper than a dealership diagnostic. Besides this one code, my instrument console also threw up warnings about servicing the traction control, anti-lock brake system and some other alarming messages. Including that the engine power was reduced! The ignition switch on my 2011 Silverado is part # 40 in this diagram: To get at it you probably need to drop the interior trim panel below the steering column. Once that's done you need to pull out the steering wheel tilt lever part #20. It should unplug strait out with a screwdriver. Then you unclip the plastic shroud part #22 and #1 Then you unclip the connector going to the Key Chip Sensor #2. And unclip the wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch. CAUTION: You might have a red plastic locking clip in the harness that needs to be disengaged before the connector will come out. The next step is to remove the lock cylinder. You'll need a pick. Here is a video of someone doing it on a similar vehicle: You can then unclip the Key Chip Sensor #2 and set it aside. You will then have to unhook the white key sensor that that's mounted on the ignition switch case #3 you just removed the key cylinder from. You'll need a small screw driver to push on a plastic tab to unlock it. Once that's done it should rotate easily for removal. If you break it off, it's not a big deal since it's part of the ignition switch you're replacing... even so, I'd practice on this one so you'll be better at removing it if need be in a later step: You can now remove the ignition switch. You'll need two small screw drivers or nails to push into the two square holes to the left and right of the "black hole" shown in the picture below: This video is also good to watch before starting this project: Now the ignition switch I pulled out of my 2011 Silverado was GM Part #25733005 ; D1485F (DO NOT USE) The dealership I contacted said that part had been replaced with GM Part# 22887691 which makes sense since the previous one died. Hopefully the new part lasts longer! Installing the switch is pretty much a reverse of the original process. The only issue is that you need to get your ignition cylinder and the switch gears aligned properly. I had to remove and replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder (and the key security chip reader) a few times before I was able to get the gears on the switch to be correct. (The guy in the second video explains how to align it, but I either didn't pay close enough attention or couldn't do it quite right) You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again. Hope this helps someone else!

Hey, I have a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 L. A few weeks ago I slammed on my horn too hard and the horn wouldn't stop until I took the fuse out. If I put the fuse back in, the horn blows continuously so I have taken the fuse back out but now I can't use the horn. I would like to try and fix the issue myself instead of bringing it into a dealership but can't find any videos or tutorials on how to fix the horn button switch which I think is the issue. If anyone has any feedback, please I'd appreciate something because I am not having much luck on my end. Thanks,

First time posting on here, I’ve tried Facebook for answer and have gotten nowhere. I have seen all of the cargo/reverse light mods and can’t seem to find what I’m looking for. I am wanting to add a set of reverse bumper lights to my truck, my problem that I’m trying to figure out is I want to either add a switch on my dash or use the existing cargo lamp switch to power them. I am only wanting my reverse lights to come on when I put my truck in reverse or turn the cargo light switch on but when I put my truck in reverse I do NOT want my cargo lights to come on. I want to be able to use my bumper lights anytime I please no matter if I’m parked or driving down the road but I also don’t want my tail light reverse lights to be on when I turn the switch on. Only when I put my truck in reverse do I want the factory reverse lights on, I don’t want them to be on if I’m driving down the road. I also don’t want my truck to display the R on the dash if I’m driving down the road and I turn them on. I figure I’m gonna need a couple of relays and diode or two but I not exactly sure what I will need or how to add them all to the truck and it function how I want it. I want to be able to add a switch into the bed for the bed lights as well so I need the cargo/bed light switch that I add to work with this setup I’m wanting to add.

here are some picture and videos of how i installed my upfitter aux switches to my 2017 silverado Texas edition truck which DID NOT com with them nor does it have the relays fuses or switch wires in the harness. keep in mind the switches are GROUND or NEGATIVE switching. which means they DO NOT HAVE 12v ON THEM. DO NOT PUT 12V ON THE WIRES YOUR ABOUT TO INSTALL. i had to get a new connector from a crashed truck in a junk yard which i then pulled 4 of the pins and wires out of to install into my trucks harness plug for the upfitter switch. once i did that it was just a simple act of making a short extension wire from those 4 wires coming from the harness plug to go to the driver kick panel where im going to locate the relays for the devises i want to control. you will see the harness plug and wires where i put them. and you will see the JST plug i used to connect the 4 wires to the extension wire to run to my relays. will also upload videos soon.

Hello, I just recently got some additional lights to put on my offroad bumper, and don't know where exactly to put the switch or how to integrate it into my dash. I just need to be able to add two sitches. I was thinking of trying to put them near the parking brake, or on the instrument panel. The instrument panel already has two spots not being used but they don't press down. Any tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Can anyone help? I have a 2016 diesel 2500HD and want to use the Upfitter X61A junction block - X7 plug/cable to run a lightbar. I need to add my own switch to ground, to control the X7 power relays for switch 3. I have added for switch 3 the relay, 30amp and 5amp fuses in the X50A Fuse Block, installed the upfittter X7 plug and cable in the X61A Junction block. The wiring schematic for the upfitter relays Page 396, has the trigger as X5-pin 11, however when I check the pins of the X61A Junction block -X5 pin schematic on page 593 pin 11 is assigned to "Lane Departure signal". I need help finding the 85/86 relay wire to attach a ground switch. Just a note: I plan on using pin 18 of the K9 Body control X5 plug as the ground. This should control the lightbar to only have power when the High Beam are on.

I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?