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Found 19 results

  1. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  2. I have a Go Rhino sport bar in transit, I believe I will be purchasing (5) Q Series LED pod lights from Rigid Industries. I'd love to see how others have ran their conductors for power, fuses, disconnects, and cab / interior switch setups. Any and all pictures , and information are greatly appreciated. Youtube and forum searches have been mostly a bust. Interested in what lights you all are running? 2016 Silverado Z71 LT Crew Cab
  3. here are some picture and videos of how i installed my upfitter aux switches to my 2017 silverado Texas edition truck which DID NOT com with them nor does it have the relays fuses or switch wires in the harness. keep in mind the switches are GROUND or NEGATIVE switching. which means they DO NOT HAVE 12v ON THEM. DO NOT PUT 12V ON THE WIRES YOUR ABOUT TO INSTALL. i had to get a new connector from a crashed truck in a junk yard which i then pulled 4 of the pins and wires out of to install into my trucks harness plug for the upfitter switch. once i did that it was just a simple act of making a short extension wire from those 4 wires coming from the harness plug to go to the driver kick panel where im going to locate the relays for the devises i want to control. you will see the harness plug and wires where i put them. and you will see the JST plug i used to connect the 4 wires to the extension wire to run to my relays. will also upload videos soon.
  4. My first post!! I purchased the OPT7 AURA Pro light kit to install on the floor board in my 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali. (Hard to believe a $67,000 truck does not have lights there). Does anyone know which wire from the door that tells the dome light to come on when the door opens? Or have the wiring diagram?
  5. hello all, I am sure this issue has been beat to death multiple times, but I cant find the answer. I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 z71, I have had this issue for about 2 years now. the issue being that no matter what part I replace my 4wd wont reliably work. here is a list of what parts have been replaced. Drivers side wheel hub- twice Passenger Side wheel hub- three times Diff. actuator- twice 4 button switch on dash- once TCCM- once Transfer case motor- once So what is happening is, the dash will read service 4wd, i have taken it in to a shop where they have been replacing the parts, and i have come to the conclusion they are just throwing parts at it to find a fix. Every time they would replace a part it will work about 2-3 days but then give me the same service 4wd message. if i push one of the 3 4wd buttons on the switch the light will blink for a while then stop and it seems like it doesn't shift into 4wd. But i have crawled under the truck while someone else selects a 4wd button, I can hear and feel the transfer case changing into to 4wd mode. but the front diff actuator does not engage. I have checked and cleaned the ground wire under the drivers door twice but that doesn't seem to help. I am done throwing money at the shop to fix it, so this is my last resort. any help or ideas is greatly appreciated, Thank you,
  6. I just bought a 1991 Chevy C70 Kodiak C7H042 6.6L 403 CUI Diesel in amazingly great condition. I am now the 3rd owner of this dump truck. The first owner took great care of the vehicle, everything thing appears to be well maintained and no shade tree work. All the parts, wiring and accessories appear to be original and well maintained. However, the second owner bought this truck and never used it. It has sat in a field for about four years. To get to the point, I completely serviced the truck and replaced the batteries, checked the fuses, grounds, relays and I have absolutely no power to the truck. No interior or exterior lights and no lights on the instrument panel. What could be the issue?
  7. Maybe this will help anyone who has a truck that turns over, but won't start. P1682 is the code on the computer... Here are the technical details on this code: P1682 Chevrolet Description There are 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits supplied to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The first ignition circuit is provided by the powertrain relay, through a fuse. This ignition 1 voltage circuit supplies power to all the internal ECM circuits associated with the throttle actuator control (TAC) operation. The second ignition 1 voltage circuit is supplied by the run/crank relay through a fuse, and is used to power the remaining internal ECM circuits. If the ECM detects a voltage difference between the 2 ignition 1 voltage circuits, DTC P1682 will set. P1682 Chevrolet - Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 Possible causes - Faulty ignition switch - Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted - Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) When is the code detected? The ECM has detected a voltage diference between two circuits Possible symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Possible no crank or start I decided to replace the ignition switch because that's what other people had done and it was cheaper than a dealership diagnostic. Besides this one code, my instrument console also threw up warnings about servicing the traction control, anti-lock brake system and some other alarming messages. Including that the engine power was reduced! The ignition switch on my 2011 Silverado is part # 40 in this diagram: To get at it you probably need to drop the interior trim panel below the steering column. Once that's done you need to pull out the steering wheel tilt lever part #20. It should unplug strait out with a screwdriver. Then you unclip the plastic shroud part #22 and #1 Then you unclip the connector going to the Key Chip Sensor #2. And unclip the wiring harness that plugs into the ignition switch. CAUTION: You might have a red plastic locking clip in the harness that needs to be disengaged before the connector will come out. The next step is to remove the lock cylinder. You'll need a pick. Here is a video of someone doing it on a similar vehicle: You can then unclip the Key Chip Sensor #2 and set it aside. You will then have to unhook the white key sensor that that's mounted on the ignition switch case #3 you just removed the key cylinder from. You'll need a small screw driver to push on a plastic tab to unlock it. Once that's done it should rotate easily for removal. If you break it off, it's not a big deal since it's part of the ignition switch you're replacing... even so, I'd practice on this one so you'll be better at removing it if need be in a later step: You can now remove the ignition switch. You'll need two small screw drivers or nails to push into the two square holes to the left and right of the "black hole" shown in the picture below: This video is also good to watch before starting this project: Now the ignition switch I pulled out of my 2011 Silverado was GM Part #25733005 ; D1485F (DO NOT USE) The dealership I contacted said that part had been replaced with GM Part# 22887691 which makes sense since the previous one died. Hopefully the new part lasts longer! Installing the switch is pretty much a reverse of the original process. The only issue is that you need to get your ignition cylinder and the switch gears aligned properly. I had to remove and replace the ignition switch and lock cylinder (and the key security chip reader) a few times before I was able to get the gears on the switch to be correct. (The guy in the second video explains how to align it, but I either didn't pay close enough attention or couldn't do it quite right) You'll also need to clear the code once your vehicle is working again. Hope this helps someone else!
  8. Ok guys so I am relocating the passenger airbag switch. Now I want to put a rocker switch(s) in its place. Anyone know of a good way to make it look good and not redneck engineered? I’m thinking about finding a blanking plate and cutting the inside half-3/4 and sliding it in beside the switch as seen below. But I don’t know if there is a better way. And I haven’t really been able to find anything. Thanks for checking this out!
  9. Good afternoon all, I'll try to make this short and sweet so here's the deal: 1) Gauge Coolant Temp wont respond. 2) I have done the necessary test with the coolant SENDING unit. (Ground out to see if it pegs hot) 3) Used Voltmeter to check for signal to sensor which it has. 4) Checked Fuses. All are good. 5) Rest of gauges work. And here's where I'm stuck. Apparently the 1995's don't use stepper motors? (I haven't taken the cluster apart yet) But if they do, I cant find the right ones. Seem to be for 1996 or 1997 and up models. This cluster does not have a conventional pigtail that plugs into it but rather the cluster "sinks" into the adapter. The circuit board is flexible. Does anyone have any info on this type of cluster? If its a simple stepper motor or resistor I can fix it. (I think, lol) However, rather than replace with a refurbished or used one where the mileage will not be correct I'd rather upgrade to a digital cluster if possible or even swap in a later model chevy cluster. Anyone know if this is possible? One thing ive found out with the 95's is that it isn't very compatible with other models. Please ask any questions that you may have. I look forward to your responses!
  10. This is my first post. I have a 2006 Silverado with what seems like a bad passenger window motor. I have bought three new motors and I get the same result. The window only goes one direction. I switched the driver and passenger side switches and passenger motor still only moves one direction. Is there a fuse for the passenger side window? I looked in the fuse box under hood and on driver side. I can not find anything for the right door window. Been troubleshooting this for about a week. Any advice would be appreciated! Chase Mitchell
  11. I have a drivers window switch shorting out. At the fuse box the top side of the window switch fuse is testing ground and we cant find the short. New window motor and switch put in. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this circuit?
  12. I am experiencing when I turn the key in the ignition, I get nothing, if a continue to try to start turning the key eventually it starts. Any ideas, all of the events seem to be abnormal from how the truck was running days ago. I replaced the two batteries in January 2015, highest cold cranking amps. 1999 GMC Sierra Quad Cab 2500 SLT 7.4 vortec 454. Voltage seems to be cahrging fine.
  13. Below is a copy and paste of the news article. One month after agreeing to pay $900 million to settle criminal charges arising from an ignition switch defect, General Motors said today it will recall about 3,300 large pickup trucks and SUVs for a similar problem. This time the automaker says the problem in light-duty versions of its 2014 Chevrolet Silverados and GMC Sierras, a few heavy-duty version and 2015 Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe SUVs, was discovered through a new GM "Speak Up For Safety" program, before any reports of accidents or injuries. "A company employee driving his own vehicle told other engineers about it and they submitted the 'Speak Up for Safety' form," said GM spokesman Alan Adler. The program was created last year in response to the recall of about 2.5 million small cars equipped with ignition switches that could be jostled by a driver's leg from the "on" to the "accessory" position, cutting electrical power to steering, air bags and other functions. The defect, which some engineers knew about in 2003, was linked to 124 deaths. Employees encouraged to speak up to superiors. There is a process that handles each report and determines the severity of the problem. The trucks have ignition lock gears with an outer diameter that is larger than specifications, making them difficult to turn. The keys can get stuck in the “start” position at high interior temperatures, and if driven that way, they could slip into “accessory” if jostled or the cabin temperature cools, GM said in a statement. While the truck problem is similar to the Cobalt, Adler says the cause is different. The Cobalt switches didn’t have enough resistance to keep from slipping out of the run position. Dealers will replace the ignition lock housing.
  14. I am not sure if I am posting in the wrong place...so I am sorry if that's the case. I have a 2003 Sierra on which I had the heating coil replaced last month. A couple of days after the vehicle was returned to me I noticed that the cruise control stopped working. Last week my wife was following me home and noticed that I did not have any brake lights (all 3 brake lights not working, but signals and tail lights are fine). I checked all of the obvious things (fuses, pedal switch, and bulbs) and found that I had 12v on both sides of the fuse, but nothing at all in the switch plug. I found a schematic and realized that the only way this could happen is if the wire from the main fuse box to the switch has lost connection somewhere. So I traced the wire from the switch back and found that the mechanic who replaced my coil did not plug the brake switch back in. My problem is that I cannot find where it goes. For clarification, it is the wire that comes off of the switch on the brake pedal. It runs up behind the dash (I had to take most of the dash apart to find it), just under the top dash cover, and runs horizontally across the dash to about the center ofo the dash and stops. I have looked all over that area and many others but I cannot find anywhere for it to plug in to. I have looked for pictures online and cannot find anything. Please someone point me in the right direction here. Thanks for any help you can provide.
  15. I noticed that my cargo light switch does not have an indicator light on it. I have seen it on other trucks. just wondering how common this is and if the switch can be replaced with one that has the indicator. Just thinking about the switch getting bumped on and not knowing it. Want to avoid a dead battery.
  16. I really want the SLT headlights in my SLE. I love the look of the LED lights above and below the head light. Is this even possible? Has anyone done this? Will the dealership do it? So far my dealership has said not likely but they will look into it.
  17. Hello. I had problems with my heated seat and had to change the Master Door Window switch on the driver side. when i took the old switch out the the door chime was working. after a few moments it stopped working. the next day i got the new switch and installed it and the only thing it would turn on was the driver window. Locks didnt work from that door, passenger windows dont work from that door. i unhooked the battery for a few moments to see if it would fix it. Now im getting warning on my screen as in, service 4 wheel drive, service tire monitoring system, hood open (even though its closed) My seat wont move on the driver side.Blinkers dont work, Break lights stay on. i can turn the key on and the lights will come on but the switch to turn them off and to parking dont work they just stay on. Fog lights dont work. FOB key wont work. I have no clue what happened. anyone have any guidance on this? 2011 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ 5.3L V8 Crew Cab
  18. Just a quick post to share how I fixed the intermittent problem with the window switch in the rear passenger door in my 99 Yukon. After reading some other posts about cleaning the contacts, I gave it a try and it worked. This is a small switch, so I used some super-fine 400 grit sand paper to clean the copper contacts. Both the FSM and the Chilton manual were little help about how to get the switch out. I used a regular screwdriver from the back side of the switch to press in on the spring clip and pry the switch up and out. There's one clip on the side to release the wiring harness (ignore the blue pieces) and then pry off the tan switch cover with a small flat-blade screwdriver. It's kind of tricky, but you *can* use a small screwdriver blade to separate the top of the switch from the bottom and there will be two copper contacts underneath. I cleaned both sides of them, just in case, by sliding the sand paper in between the contacts, closing the contacts, then pulling the sand paper out. Pay attention to which way the switch is pointing when you take it apart; it is possible to put it together backwards (don't ask me how I know that) and be careful not to lose the two small springs. Hope that helps you if you're in the same boat! The switch is $50+ at the dealer and $25 at the wrecking yard, so it seemed worth the time to fix it, rather than spend the same (or more) time to get a new part.
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