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Showing results for tags 'heating'.
Found 4 results
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I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
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Alright Gents, I'm new to the forum. My truck is a 2012 Silverado LTZ Z71 and it has the dual climate control and auto climate button. Heres the problem: About two weeks ago my air quit working out of no where, it would not work at all! Okay, so I replaced the blower motor and resistor and harness, still no air. So, then I replaced the in dash climate control module. The air will work, however it works when it wants to. I can cut the truck on, cut the power on and it wont work, but I'll be d****d if the air works after I've been sweating for a good hour while driving around in this Alabama heat and try turning it on at random! Sometimes, I can take out the fuse to the module and leave it out for a few minutes and out it back in and it work for a few hours with me cutting it on and off as I enter and exit the truck. I finally said to h*** with it and took it to a shop this morning, they called and said that it was the climate control module, that I just replaced mind you, and that they are waiting for a call back from the dealer because the module is a dealer part. I just now got to thinking about something...is there a specific procedure that you're supposed to follow after replacing the climate control module?? Am I missing something??? For the record the resistor did need replacing and I went ahead and replaced the blower motor as well since the old one was starting to lose it's umph and not push air like it used to. So, again...am I missing something here? I've looked and looked, and I'm not the only one with this problem, however no one has the exact problem. I'm really at my wits end guys! I work outside, so yeah I'm pissed right now because I cant escape this dang heat.
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Gents, I've got a head scratcher. My 2000 Suburban 2500 is displaying some strange heater/cooling system issues. Last week my heater started going cold while at idle or lower rpm. As i get past 40, the heat instantly gets hotter and then back to lukewarm at stoplights and such. I haven't seen any of the typical water pump indicators. There's no antifreeze smell or puddle on the floor and the truck still maintains perfect temp while driving. I threw in a new thermostat and topped off the dexcool. The radiator and coolant are only about 6 months old. Aside from the loss of coolant from swapping the t-stat, the system was full. To add to the head scratching, while I was at a stoplight this morning and my front heat started to go cold, I felt the rear vents and they were as hot as could be. So, all signs are pointing to good flow from the water pump. Since the condition appears to be rpm dependent, I'm thinking water pump. But without any of the typical indicators, it doesn't seem to be the culprit. And since I do get hot air on occasion, the air blender door doesn't make sense, as I've got good modulation from hot to cold. A broken heater core doesn't fit either, as that would have been an easy one to diagnose. I'm thinking maybe a partially blocked heater core. To me it makes the most sense, as I would assume the faster the water pump spins, the more it's able to overcome whatever blockage is present. Or am I just thinking about it too much and I should just throw on another water pump and see what happens?
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I'm having some problems with my 05 Silverado's heating and air conditioning. Two or three times over the summer while I had my air on it would turn into hot air, really hot. Almost like I had the heat on full blast instead of the air. When I turned the truck off and then turned it back on again it was back to normal. About a week ago I had to use my heat for the first time and it was only putting out cool air. I'm trying to narrow down what the problem is. I'd like to try and avoid taking it anywhere and fix it myself, but I also don't want to just start throwing parts and money at it. Thoughts? Thanks Nic
