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It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.

On Sunday March 8th I was driving my Sierra home from my parents-in law. I pulled out from a stop sign and was just getting up to speed when there was a loud bang followed by loss of power, Loud ticking noise, vibrations and a sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I knew this was lifters instantly as it Happened to me in August of 2018, a short 11,000 miles ago. So, I took it in to my dealer who ran diagnostics and gave me the news That I would need lifters replaced yet again. Unfortunately, my power train warranty ran out December of 2019, so they told me I would owe a balance of $2900+ tax. Of course I was very upset with this news as I would have imagined the dealer would talk to GM and get this issue sorted out.. I mean it was only a few months over a year and less than 11,000 miles since they replacedall of the lifters and the cam shaft. I contacted GM myself and over the course of the last week have been working with the dealer and trying to talk to someone at GM who could help. Finally I reached a “senior analyst” who is apparently the top tier of customer assistance and she told me there was absolutely nothing they can do and I am responsible for the entire bill. I insisted that GM must know about the issues this engine has By now and should acknowledge and help their clients, but she offered no help. How can I trust this engine again? I have read many posts people have put on this forum alone with this issue of failing lifters. How can anyone be expected to pay this much for an issue that is derived likely from GMs design of the afm system? Especially after we pay $50,000+ for the truck to begin with! I do not pretend to be an Mechanical or financial expert, but I feel I have been severely wronged in this situation. I have no choice but to eat this cost and sell the truck before the lifters have a chance to fail again. I would suggest anyone doing research considering buying one of these trucks (I believe Sierra and Silverado 14-18 at least) that has the active fuel management system to rethink it. I would also go out on a limb and suggest my friends with 14-15 year Silverado and Sierras (with expired powertrain warranty’s) to consider selling them before the lifters fail on yours and you are stuck with a $3000-$5000 bill. Good luck all.

Currently have my 2020 Gmc sierra 1500 with a build date of 09/2019 at the dealer with 2kmiles on it. Battery was dead one morning. After jump starting had check engine light and brake antilock system issue sent to my email. Truck would not hold a charge after leaving it on for a good 30 min. Its been at the dealer for 3days now.

Planning on leveling my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE with the 3” front 2” rear MOTOFAB leveling kit. Currently have stock wheels/tires on it which are 255/70R17. Thinking about jumping up to 18” wheels instead but wanted to know how much of a difference the 17” to 18” jump would make in appearance. I was able to find plenty of pictures with 18” wheels but are there any photos out there of leveled /lifted trucks with 17” rims?

Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 3/5/2018 With the debut of GMC's all new and very fancy MultiPro Tailgate last week in Detroit questions have been floated regarding various aspects of the design and how available the tailgate will truly be. So, we reached out to GMC directly and have some answers for you. Here we are in no particular order: Will the MultiPro be available on any trim level other than SLT and Denali? YES. Although only the SLT and Denali trim levels were mentioned last week, we can confirm the MultiPro tailgate will be available on the SLE trim level as well. Can I open the MultiPro with the keyfob? YES. Just the tailgate as a whole, however. There's no option to open the inner section unless you do it with the button on the gate. Will the MultiPro prevent itself from opening into mounted ball hitch? NO. This is the biggest issue we can see with the MultiPro going forward. The inner gate is fully susceptible to damage from a mounted trailer hitch. GMC does mention that a warning sticker will be present to remind owners not to do just this. Owners will have to remember going forward that if they leave a ball hitch mounted, the MultiPro WILL HIT IT. Will GMC offer a manual (cheaper) version of the MultiPro later on? UNDETERMINED. GMC wouldn't answer our questions about a cheaper, manual version of the MultiPro in the future. We think it would be a great idea and GMC punting the question means the option is in play for the future. Will Chevrolet ever get the MultiPro? LIKELY. Although no-one from Chevy is talking, we expect the Silverado to get the MultiPro (or a Chevy-named version) at some point in the near future, perhaps in model year two (2020)

I'm interested in a quick read of the room. How does everyone feel about the news that GM is moving in the direction of an battery electric truck? Does the brand it's sold under influence if you'd be interested? Are you ready to buy one now or do you think we should wait it out? Thanks for your opinions!

Hey folks, I'm in dire need of a front bumper for my 06 Sierra 1500. There are a few rust holes (Nova Scotia winters ) preventing me from passing my provincial MVI. My question is if a similar generation 1500 Silverado front bumper will fit my Sierra, as a local scrapyard has a magnitude of Chevys but not any feasible Sierra candidates. I know it wouldn't look too pretty, but this truck is necessity over style. New is out of the question as shipping in NS is ridiculous, cheapest OEM ripoff came to over $600 for a $150 bumper. Any tips or advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, -Nick

Hello Ladies and Gents Got a 2014 single cab L83 Sierra. I've recently acquired the following parts and I'm currently having them fit on to later be put on for a dyno tune... What do you guys reckon I'll put out on the dyno? What max RPM do you recommend I ask the tuner to go with? What should my further installs be? Adding: GPI stage 2 cam (stock converter) L86 intake and TB CAI Long tube 1 7/8 headers, 3 inch piping to a magnalfow muffler and out And finally a dyno tune... Thanks

Looking to upgrade the stock wheels and tires on my '19 Sierra 1500 (extended cab, 4WD). I can get away with just blocks if I go with 33" tires, but need a lift if I go to the 35" tires. I don't want rubbing...but also don't want to get too aggressive on the lift. It is suggested that I go with a 6" lift. I don't do any offloading and I'm not trying to "act" like I do. I just love the look of the bigger whee/tire on this truck. Looking for suggestions from those who went with the 33" tire vs the 35" tire and what size lift you used (if you went with the 35" tire). Just throwing this out there so I can get some feedback from those who have already "figured it out." Thanks all!

I have an 04 gmc Sierra Wt with a weird issue. it started when my battery went bad. i use the intermittent pin in the body-12 way-brown in the cab fuse block as an ignition driven accessory. the first thing i noticed was the accessory would only work every now and then. next the blower stopped working, the abs and brake likes came on, all at the same time. after messing with it all day here is the current issue. the abs and brake like come on when the blower speed control it set to any speed other then 0. when set back to 0 the abs and brake lights will turn off. the intermittent pin on the body-12 way-brown has low voltage and cant power my accessory. the constant power pin next to the intermittent pin has full 12 volts. I have checked every fuse and cleaned the ground on the forward driver side and the ground in front of the driver side suspension. I have also added 3 ground wires cab to battery frame to battery block to battery I am at a lose for what to do. Could it be a bad relay?

Replaced my stock exhaust ('19 Sierra, 4WD, Extended Cab) with a Borla. What the hell do I do with the stock exhaust? Can't envision a need for it anywhere. Just hold on to it or is there a market for stock gear? Just looking for suggestions so it doesn't sit in my garage!

I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster! With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time. LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.

My AC only blows cold on the driver's side. The passenger kicks out some heat. Here's where I am so far: I noticed no movement from the passenger side actuator. I recalibrated the system, no improvement. Went ahead and replaced the passenger side door blend actuator. That was not fun to say the least. Did it by removing the passenger side airbag, vent and dropped the glovebox. That didn't fix it. I noticed however that the white dial went from the center position to the right. It seems to be stuck there no matter what I do with the climate control dial. I recalibrated the system again and nothing. I'm at a loss with what to do next. Could the terminal cable be bad? I'm not sure where those wires lead. Any guidance is appreciated. I bought the new actuator from Oreilly. They had a 65 dollar one and a 140 dollar version, both from Dorman. The salesman could not tell any difference between the two, so I opted for the 65 dollar one. The terminal connection was exactly the same on both. A mystery to me. I hope to god that one is correct and the other isn't. One more thing to note...When I bought the truck used, the air blew cold on both sides (Florida purchase). When I got it up to Atlanta, there was not heat. I took it to a mechanic who discovered the heater core was disconnected (bypassed). We went ahead and connected it to see if it leaked. No leaks. So we just hooked it back up. Heat worked great. The passenger AC, as noted, stopped working. Perhaps there's a connection there. The truck has 80k miles and is a V6. Thank you.

Good Afternoon fellow 6.2L enthusiasts. I apologize if this sounds like a commercial or a rant. I just like to share what I've experienced and discovered. So, I don't know about you, but I've been searching for a way to cram more air into my L86 that won't break the bank. I've done hours upon hours looking for the perfect bolt on's or practices that will help the block breath deeper. I've learned that swapping intake manifolds are not worth it however, porting makes it one bad ass manifold. (which i've done) I threw on an AFE CAI and that really helped get the air moving. (momentum GT pro 5R) Headers and a bigger full exhaust helps get the flow rolling. (I'm rocking TSP 1 7/8 Headers with a 3.5" full exhaust (catted with Cal Cats) and a Flowmaster Pro series Muffler) Cylinder Heads and a Cam shaft will transform your truck. (going with TSP Heads and a Trick Performance Cam package) And a basic tune wakes these bad boys up. (local dyno-tuner) That being said after the above you're looking anywhere between 430-530 HP N/A. Obviously the Cam specs are going to swing that number. Now, The one thing that I have NOT been able to find is a Larger Throttle body that will fit the L86 Stock Manifold. So I did what most have done and ported that sucker out. The only issue is it will never be larger than 87mm. Until this came along. https://www.bbkperformance.com/92mm-throttle-body-14-18-corvette-camaro-lt1.html FYI slight modification is required to the stock Manifold. You need to shave the base of the Vacuum port as well as the MAP sensor base for the frame to fit. Once that is done you're rocking. I was able to Port match the TB Bore to the manifold inlet and smooth out the transition. Honestly I can immediately feel the difference. When I get a little bandwidth I will throw on some videos of Cold/warm starts, take offs etc. If you have any questions feel free to reach out!

Did you know you can upgrade your gauge cluster in your 2014-2020 Silverado or Sierra? We recently did just that on our 2019 Silverado LTZ which came from the factory with a "mid-level" gauge cluster. Click here to read our review of the White Automotive and Media Gauge Cluster Upgrade https://www.gm-trucks.com/white-automotive-upgrade-heres-how-to-add-a-digital-gauge-cluster-to-your-silverado-or-sierra/

Hey guys I’m new on this forum. I’ve never owned a GMC or a truck before and this is a first for me so it’s definitely a learning experience for sure so any help would be much appreciated. It’s a 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3. I recently had the AC condenser line break on it causing it to leak transmission oil everywhere in the bottom half of the engine bay. Got it taken care of. When I received it from the dealer it was still covered in oil residue. I was pretty mad about that but I cleaned it up pretty well with engine degreaser. Then I checked back a couple of days later and there was oil still after I had cleaned it so I took it back to the dealer and they pressure washed it (or so they told me) and now it’s all gone. Anyhow afterwords now everytime I start the truck up and it starts getting warmed up quite a bit of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. It’s pretty common for cars and trucks to do this I know but the smoke smells like burning oil. The truck isn’t leaking oil or coolant on the floor. After I drive and warm up it goes away. But once I park the truck anywhere and start it up again it smokes, I drive a little and it keeps smoking then stops. If I’m stuck in traffic idiling it smokes as well. Any help would be useful please. Could it be a serious problem or still left over old oil residue or just me being paranoid?

GM recalls 160,000 pickup trucks in Canada for fire risks, nothing announced in US yet As of right now there is a recall for all GM 1500's years 2014-2018 that have both a rear window defogger and a power sliding rear window. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/gm-recall-pickup-trucks-canada-fire-risks/ That recall has not been expanded to the US. I Just got off the phone with GM and filed a request to have the recall expanded to the US. I would encourage everyone who this applies to in this forum to do the same. It takes about 5-10 min but could save us all a lot of hassle later. HAVE YOUR VIN READY Call GM @1 (866) 522-9559 Reference this recall number: Manufacturer Recall Number N192220470 (This is the recall number from GM in Canada) (reference: https://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search-recherche/detail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=0&md=0&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2019325&cf=SearchResult&pg=50) They will tell you that the recall only applies in Canada and not to your VIN. Express to them that the recall needs to be expanded to the US since our vehicles are also affected. Please post here if you have called GM (just so we can keep track) Please also post if you have experienced this issue (smoke, glass breakage, etc) Affected components: electrical – rear window defroster on trucks equipped with the power sliding rear window. Affected vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015-2019 Chevrolet Silverado HD 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado LD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2019 GMC Sierra HD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra LD It may be a good idea to sticky this topic.

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 4-25-2019 Back in December, GM-Trucks.com member Jammin87SS posted a note here about a class-action suit related to GM 8-speed automatic transmissions. This transmission was used widely by GM, including in the Sierra, Silverado, Colorado, and Canyon pickup trucks. Owners have been complaining of shuddering and hesitation. Owner of a Silverado, Ed T., wrote a typical description for CarComplaints. He says, "Ever since I bought this truck new there has always been a shifting problem. This problem occurs whenever I slow down to a fairly low speed and then accelerate. When I accelerate there is a hesitation for a second or 2. This is very annoying and could potentially be dangerous. I have contacted my dealer and he just says "that's the way they shift, no fix"??? Dealer also stated that the transmissions have a learning chip and shifts the way a person normally drives - that's total BS. I have had my truck for over 2 years and it still shifts poorly. Besides the above I love my truck very much, GM just has to fix this problem..." GM knows there is a problem. It has issued both notices to its dealer's technicians and also TSBs. However, it has yet to find a solution that works. There is a class action suit that you can learn more about here. Our questions for our members are; 1) Have you experienced any issues with your 8-speed, and 2) was the dealer able to fix it? Let us know in the comments below.

The LED lights in the passenger side headlight of my 2016 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab are sporadically not working. Sometimes the are on, sometimes they aren't. The driver side functions properly all the time. The main light in the center of the headlight works fine all the time. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the whole headlight. When I turned on the truck a few hours after I picked it up from the dealership the LED lights were not working again. Has anyone had or heard about this issue? I'm going to take it back to the dealership, but would love some advice from anyone else that has dealt with this issue. Thanks!

Is it possible to fit a rear flip kit from a 94 Sierra c1500 onto a 94 k2500 Sierra? If not can someone tell me if ways I can lower my k2500!

Hi all, this is my first ever truck. Came from a ’16 Cadillac CTS which gave me non-stop issues. Decided it was time to try something else. I replaced the CTS with a ’19 Sierra AT4 6.2 fully loaded not too long ago and really loving this truck. Almost too much tech. That 6.2 engine is easily excited . Still getting used to driving and parking such a big vehicle having driven sedans all my life. My biggest peeve so far is that I almost wrecked it during my first week. I hit a medium bump on the road going 35mph and lost control of the truck as it swerved violently into the left lane. Luckily for me, there was no vehicle in the left lane as I think I would have probably hit it. Really shook me for a while. Chalked it up to not being used to driving a truck. After reading this forum quite a bit, I’ve come to the realization it could be a problem with this generation of the Sierra/Silverado. I’m now extremely careful when I go over bumps because it feels like the truck is sliding. I’ll be monitoring that thread to see if a solution crops up. Anyways, happy to join this community. Hope you are all nice .

I've been hearing a lot of horror stories about GM power steering doing some wacky things, is this something I need to look into or have I just been online too long? Hearing about power steering loss and sometimes electronic steering that randomly jerks while driving is quite frankly pretty scary especially when you're driving inches beside a semi truck on the highway. Is this something I need to worry about in my 2018 Silverado or is it just the one in a million trucks with this issue. Would appreciate some input on this. Thanks, Victor

Just got 2019 Sierra Elevation. Looking at options to install a 20 or 22” LED light bar. Had one in my bumper opening on my 2012 2500 HD and found it indispensable for night time driving in the backwoods. Has anyone installed one yet? Share your pictures of your setup if you have. Thanks!

Item: 2016+ GMC Sierra Grille (Black) Condition: Brand New OEM Location: St. Louis, MO Description: Professionally painted GMC Sierra Grille that is a brand new take-off from an Elevation trim Sierra. It's factory matched to the Onyx Black paint code. I decided to go with a different grille and have this in the factory box. Price: $750 OBO (shipping to continental US included) See attached pictures.

After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.