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Showing results for tags 'Sierra'.
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Now that some limited details and rumors are starting to trickle out about the options for the 2027 Silverado and Sierra, I'm curious- does the rumors of the larger displacement Generation 6 engines change your future buying choice? Vote in the poll and let me know your thoughts below, i'm seriously interested in what people are thinking!
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*SEE BELOW FOR UPDATE* So, after hunting on the internet with a rhetorical shotgun for skid plates, I decided to do some research into OE parts. Here is what I found. for the metal skid plate (splash guard) from the bumper to the first crossmember, the part number is 86803306. Can confirm through ACDelco’s website that it is metal. I’m not sure what kind. When shopping through GM dealers, DO NOT INPUT YOUR VIN. I’m currently battling it out with Chevy Parts Pros and told them to pound sand if they won’t send me my part. Does NOT FIT DURAMAX OR 2.7L MODELS UNLESS YOUR ORIGINAL PLATE IS p/n 84125967. This plate is factory on vehicles with “enhanced tow”. for the steering gear plate, part number is 23385004. It is 1/8” steel, I believe. for the transfer case, part number is 84699480. This shield spans the gap between the trans crossmember, and another behind the transfer case, uses (4) m8 x 1.25 x34mm bolts and u-nuts to secure into place. Fits 2019-2025 models, 4x4 only. It’s powdercoated 1/8” steel. you can get the steering gear shield and the transfer case shield in a set through GM accessories under “off-road skid plates set”, but I found it cheaper to order some off-brand bolts/u-nuts and get the parts individually. cheers! ******************************************** My parts finally arrived. 86803306 does in fact fit in place of the plastic shield, and is made of the same material as the trail boss skid right behind it covering the steering gear. I do believe it’s either aluminum or mild steel. I took the air deflector off the bottom of the bumper to mimic a trail boss. The plate bolted right up and I had zero issues with install. Took 10 minutes with a ratchet, extension, and socket.
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Hey guys. i plan on doing a bit of overlanding this summer and fall in my 2024 5.3 crew cab during my camping trips in the Shenandoahs out here in Virginia. I’m getting a matching set of five 275/70R18 tires (stock size for a ZR2). Either Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T’s, or Falken Wildpeak AT4Ws. The closest tire shop will be miles away; and and I’d need to make it some distance in case of a puncture. I have two questions, the first of which is most important: 1.) with a stock aluminum rim, 18” x 8.5”, will the spare carrier need to be assisted with a y-strap, or would it be alright to hang it up and forget it? Picture of the rim will be posted below. 2.) Will this tire/wheel combo fit under the truck without any issues? I'm not doing any high speed driving, except on the highway, and I won’t be doing any Baja or stump jumping with it. At most, the trails will be a little sketchy and I’ll be taking it slow.
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Just got 2019 Sierra Elevation. Looking at options to install a 20 or 22” LED light bar. Had one in my bumper opening on my 2012 2500 HD and found it indispensable for night time driving in the backwoods. Has anyone installed one yet? Share your pictures of your setup if you have. Thanks!
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Anyone that could help shed some light on this issue ive ran into on my 2003 Gmc Sierra 2500hd 4x4. Recently installed a non torison bar drop cognito 6 inch lift. The kit came with torsion keys which I installed. Currently the trucks sitting 2 inches above max ride height with the adjuster bolt basically fully backed out with the keys just sitting on the nut. If i were to attempt to clock the key one hex back it would hit the cross member. I have contacted cognito but havnt heard anything yet. Anyone run into this before or ran a cognito lift?
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When I search my VIN it pulls up all of the info less the transmission. My scanner ask me to select which RPO "Type" trans I have. Where might I find this? These are my choices: MHS MHT M12 MQB MQC
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I'm about to install the Chevy Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade on our Silverado. Has anyone else installed this kit? Anyone thinking about it? At first glance, it seems pretty straightforward. After reading the manual, however, I'm realizing I need to take the front wheel bearings off to access the dust shield. Other than that, it seems to be a easy rotor/caliper replacement. Big thanks to @RyanbabZ71 for recommending a great brake bleeding tool! The front set is a true six-piston caliper. The rear calipers are stock calipers painted red to match the fronts. The size increase on the front rotors is significant. I'm gathering the tools I'll need right now. Hopefully I can tear into it next week. I expect the entire process to take me at least a whole day and maybe two days depending on how it goes. Why so long? I'll be photographing and taking video of the entire process. Can't wait to share that with you all. Check back in this thread for progress updates.
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Are there any companies out there that makes a light mount similar to the one I posted? looking for something for my 2017 sierra 1500 Denali
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Hey there, I bought some after market tow mirrors for my 2014 gmc sierra 1500 and yes unfortunately I went with amazon, but I got everything wired in except there wasn’t a running light wire for the turn signal which I assume this company just didn’t do. Has anyone ever had to wire in a running light wire inside the mirrors and know a wiring diagram for the mirrors or know if it’s possible to do it, thanks! IMG_7225.mov
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So I have a 2016 Sierra. No issues till yesterday when I went to start after running into a store. I got one click then nothing. All the different systems service warnings come on display when I turn key. I recharged battery to make sure it was good. I jumped the starter relay to make sure it wasn't starter. It turns over great with or without the key on. Having all the systems service warning coming on seems the most confusing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
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I lost all power going about 45 mph Last night after I let off the gas to make a slight right curve and when I pressed the gas again. My gauges reset and there was a message on the cluster screen that said “SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND PRESS START AGAIN” (it may or may not have said “AGAIN”). I pulled over and while still in Drive with the brake pressed, I shifted to Neutral, and pushed Start/Stop and the entire vehicle reset. The ignition clicked nonstop for awhile but the engine did not turn over. While waiting for AAA, I disconnected my Pulsar LT and tried to start it, but got the same nonstop clicking. I scanned it and got a code reading: “P16A7: Engine Controls Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit 2”. ANY and ALL feedback is welcomed. 2019 (late/new model) GMC Sierra SLT 5.3L Crew Cab Short Bed ~115k mi if that matters. -
I lost all power going about 45 mph Last night after I let off the gas to make a slight right curve and when I pressed the gas again. My gauges reset and there was a message on the cluster screen that said “SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND PRESS START AGAIN” (it may or may not have said “AGAIN”). I pulled over and while still in Drive with the brake pressed, I pushed Start/Stop and the entire vehicle reset. The ignition clicked nonstop for awhile but the engine did not turn over. While waiting for AAA, I disconnected my Pulsar LT and tried to start it, but got the same nonstop clicking. I scanned it and got a code reading: “P16A7: Engine Controls Ignition Relay Feedback Circuit 2”. ANY and ALL feedback is welcomed. 2019 (late/new model) GMC Sierra SLT 5.3L Crew Cab Short Bed ~115k mi if that matters.
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Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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I have a 2021 Sierra 1500 Elevation 4x4. I am trying to figure out what is the largest I can go with tires without any rubbing. I am planning on installing a level kit as well. I have found similar articles, but I’m having a hard time navigating my exact vehicle. I’d love to throw some 33s on it at least! Any help is appreciated!
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I installed aftermarket tow mirrors with the proper wiring harness two years ago and they have worked great up until recently. A couple weeks ago my drivers side white running light went out but the amber light still works when I lock/unlock the truck. The passenger side white running light works fine. I have looked over many forums for ideas but have not found a solution. Any insight would be appreciated! -
It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.
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hey so the other day i was heading to mu aunts when all of a sudden i couldn't go past second. stopped at her place since i was just down the road when it happened. checked fluids and it was ok. topped it up+ added stop slip. now when i drive first gear refuses to shift before 3k then has a super slow yet hard shift. and when i am driving unless I'm doing the speed limit collated with the rpm. nothing will happen/ the rpms with drop and the truck coasts like it's in neutral. i swapped the tranny fuse (fuse #4) to see if that would do anything and it didn't. would it be the 3rd/4th clutch packs? or more of a torque converter? from what i have read online . the truck doesn't throw any check lights. not sure about codes as i don't have a code reader. also i cannot use the column shifter. as when i try to manually shift any of the gears it just revs and acts like neutral. -
okay you guys i know this might sound odd but i am trying to find some led lights to replace the park sensors on my new bumper. the reason is it is a bumper replacement bumper and it is only made with the holes pre-drilled and my pickup is NOT equipped with the park sensor feature. i have looked every where trying to find the size of the holes so that i can kinda narrow down my search but i am not having any luck. i am hope maybe yall have some knowledge to lend me. thank you in advanced!!
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Newbie here... I have a new 15 Sierra SLT with the reverse tilt mirrors. When you put it into R the mirrors automatically tilt downward to a specific location. For me, the location selected does not work...I want to modify or move where the mirrors point to when the truck is placed in R. I can't seem to locate how to do this. When in R, I can change the mirror location, but it does not remember that same location the next time the truck is placed in R. Help? Thanks, -James
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2017 sierra 5.3 with 230k kms/ 140k miles. Oil pressure when hot drops to 10 psi at idle. Spikes back up as soon as you hit the gas. It's always dropped low to like 20psi since new but seems to be getting worse very gradually. At highway speeds it's up around 35-40psi. If I step on it it will jump up to 60 or so. Local shop is recommending oil pump replacement which is a pretty pricey job. Anything else this could be before we go ahead? They checked with a mechanical gauge and otherwise the pressure seems correct so don't think it's a sensor issue....
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Hey Everyone- I have a 2022 AT4 (5700mi) and its it has a shudder/hesitation during steady and/or light throttle acceleration between 25 and 70 MPH. Anyone else experiencing this or has and got it "fixed". Reproduced it for a ride along with the dealer, but need to figure out a plan or approach to fix this. They have mentioned maybe a fuel injector, maybe a new transmission.... Thoughts? Recommendations? Also, what site does everyone use to search for TSB's? -
GM recalls 160,000 pickup trucks in Canada for fire risks, nothing announced in US yet As of right now there is a recall for all GM 1500's years 2014-2018 that have both a rear window defogger and a power sliding rear window. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/gm-recall-pickup-trucks-canada-fire-risks/ That recall has not been expanded to the US. I Just got off the phone with GM and filed a request to have the recall expanded to the US. I would encourage everyone who this applies to in this forum to do the same. It takes about 5-10 min but could save us all a lot of hassle later. HAVE YOUR VIN READY Call GM @1 (866) 522-9559 Reference this recall number: Manufacturer Recall Number N192220470 (This is the recall number from GM in Canada) (reference: https://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search-recherche/detail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=0&md=0&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2019325&cf=SearchResult&pg=50) They will tell you that the recall only applies in Canada and not to your VIN. Express to them that the recall needs to be expanded to the US since our vehicles are also affected. Please post here if you have called GM (just so we can keep track) Please also post if you have experienced this issue (smoke, glass breakage, etc) Affected components: electrical – rear window defroster on trucks equipped with the power sliding rear window. Affected vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015-2019 Chevrolet Silverado HD 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado LD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2019 GMC Sierra HD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra LD It may be a good idea to sticky this topic.
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I’m having this issue with my truck. So both fans turn on automatically when I start the truck, also I don’t have no A/C. I replaced my thermostat and temp sensor. That didn’t seem to fix it. I should also include that I did a DOD Delete with a stock non dod cam, it’s tuned and engine works fine. It’s driveable but it’s annoying have no A/C and both fans when I start the truck. Please help! -
Hello! 21 RST, just bought a seat set from a 21 LTZ. I read on here about the WAMS programming and was able to get my hands on a cheap set! Well, now they are en route to me and WAMS is unable to do them now. Has anyone else been able to get the programming done? Thanks!!
