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Recently bought a '02 Sierra 1500hd and the seller wasnt sure on the lift size. My only experience is with spring type lifts in jeeps so I'm not sure how to tell the lift size on this truck. Ive attached pictures of what looks like a upper control arm drop bracket as well as the rear suspension. Also im suspecting it may have a body lift as well, the fenders sit 47 inches at the highest point, all around. Also on 35s

It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.

Okay, after 11 months of agonizing mishaps, set backs and over all triumph, I figured it was time to immortalize my truck in a new post. Please welcome my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 7.0 (427) Turbo Build! Block: Texas Speed and Performance Darton sleeved boost ready block; 7.0L (427). TSP Forged wet sump crankshaft 4.0" stroke 6.125 Boost specific billet I-Beam Rods CP 4.125 -12cc Dish Pistons w/upgraded wrist pins. Clevite main bearings Clevite rod bearings ARP Main stud kit Cylinder Heads/ Intake Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance SV Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump (high side) Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump (low side) Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully titanium wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission/driveline: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. Custom 5" 6061 aluminum driveshaft rated for 1,200hp 7,300trq MORE to come. I need to get the final tune with the new block. Still runs very well on the old 6.2 tune however, going up to 7.0 adds a layer of goofy on vacuum or under boost.. Next steps Get the PATC Stage 4 transmission kit stuffed into my 6L80E and retune to 900+ whp! Hoping to have that underway around March! Let me know what you all think. Ask any question. I'm open to where I purchased parts, cost of build etc. especially my opinion getting into a build like this.

Zane Merva Executive Editor, GM-Trucks.com 3/5/2018 With the debut of GMC's all new and very fancy MultiPro Tailgate last week in Detroit questions have been floated regarding various aspects of the design and how available the tailgate will truly be. So, we reached out to GMC directly and have some answers for you. Here we are in no particular order: Will the MultiPro be available on any trim level other than SLT and Denali? YES. Although only the SLT and Denali trim levels were mentioned last week, we can confirm the MultiPro tailgate will be available on the SLE trim level as well. Can I open the MultiPro with the keyfob? YES. Just the tailgate as a whole, however. There's no option to open the inner section unless you do it with the button on the gate. Will the MultiPro prevent itself from opening into mounted ball hitch? NO. This is the biggest issue we can see with the MultiPro going forward. The inner gate is fully susceptible to damage from a mounted trailer hitch. GMC does mention that a warning sticker will be present to remind owners not to do just this. Owners will have to remember going forward that if they leave a ball hitch mounted, the MultiPro WILL HIT IT. Will GMC offer a manual (cheaper) version of the MultiPro later on? UNDETERMINED. GMC wouldn't answer our questions about a cheaper, manual version of the MultiPro in the future. We think it would be a great idea and GMC punting the question means the option is in play for the future. Will Chevrolet ever get the MultiPro? LIKELY. Although no-one from Chevy is talking, we expect the Silverado to get the MultiPro (or a Chevy-named version) at some point in the near future, perhaps in model year two (2020)

GM recalls 160,000 pickup trucks in Canada for fire risks, nothing announced in US yet As of right now there is a recall for all GM 1500's years 2014-2018 that have both a rear window defogger and a power sliding rear window. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/gm-recall-pickup-trucks-canada-fire-risks/ That recall has not been expanded to the US. I Just got off the phone with GM and filed a request to have the recall expanded to the US. I would encourage everyone who this applies to in this forum to do the same. It takes about 5-10 min but could save us all a lot of hassle later. HAVE YOUR VIN READY Call GM @1 (866) 522-9559 Reference this recall number: Manufacturer Recall Number N192220470 (This is the recall number from GM in Canada) (reference: https://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search-recherche/detail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=0&md=0&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2019325&cf=SearchResult&pg=50) They will tell you that the recall only applies in Canada and not to your VIN. Express to them that the recall needs to be expanded to the US since our vehicles are also affected. Please post here if you have called GM (just so we can keep track) Please also post if you have experienced this issue (smoke, glass breakage, etc) Affected components: electrical – rear window defroster on trucks equipped with the power sliding rear window. Affected vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2015-2019 Chevrolet Silverado HD 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado LD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra 1500 2015-2019 GMC Sierra HD 2014-2018 GMC Sierra LD It may be a good idea to sticky this topic.

I'm interested in a quick read of the room. How does everyone feel about the news that GM is moving in the direction of an battery electric truck? Does the brand it's sold under influence if you'd be interested? Are you ready to buy one now or do you think we should wait it out? Thanks for your opinions!

Hey guys I’m new on this forum. I’ve never owned a GMC or a truck before and this is a first for me so it’s definitely a learning experience for sure so any help would be much appreciated. It’s a 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3. I recently had the AC condenser line break on it causing it to leak transmission oil everywhere in the bottom half of the engine bay. Got it taken care of. When I received it from the dealer it was still covered in oil residue. I was pretty mad about that but I cleaned it up pretty well with engine degreaser. Then I checked back a couple of days later and there was oil still after I had cleaned it so I took it back to the dealer and they pressure washed it (or so they told me) and now it’s all gone. Anyhow afterwords now everytime I start the truck up and it starts getting warmed up quite a bit of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. It’s pretty common for cars and trucks to do this I know but the smoke smells like burning oil. The truck isn’t leaking oil or coolant on the floor. After I drive and warm up it goes away. But once I park the truck anywhere and start it up again it smokes, I drive a little and it keeps smoking then stops. If I’m stuck in traffic idiling it smokes as well. Any help would be useful please. Could it be a serious problem or still left over old oil residue or just me being paranoid?

Hey Guys, I have the opportunity to pick up a 2019 5.3 engine & transmission with 20k miles on it fairly cheap. I have an 09 sierra that I'd like to swap it into, currently running a stock 5.3. My question is: Is it a big deal to make a change between years like that? I've replaced engines before in older trucks but never with this type of age difference, I don't want to get in over my head. Thanks!

I bought a1999 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 truck about 6 months ago I’ve been working on it a lot ive done put 2200 into it i want to get it into tip/top shape so I know it’s going to take a lot more money than what I already spent but at the moment I’m short on funds and can’t afford to change every piece this is what’s going on two days ago my truck started shaking in the front driver side and I hear a knock every now and again I jacked it up and I can move the tire all over the place is that the hub or tie rod

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 4-25-2019 Back in December, GM-Trucks.com member Jammin87SS posted a note here about a class-action suit related to GM 8-speed automatic transmissions. This transmission was used widely by GM, including in the Sierra, Silverado, Colorado, and Canyon pickup trucks. Owners have been complaining of shuddering and hesitation. Owner of a Silverado, Ed T., wrote a typical description for CarComplaints. He says, "Ever since I bought this truck new there has always been a shifting problem. This problem occurs whenever I slow down to a fairly low speed and then accelerate. When I accelerate there is a hesitation for a second or 2. This is very annoying and could potentially be dangerous. I have contacted my dealer and he just says "that's the way they shift, no fix"??? Dealer also stated that the transmissions have a learning chip and shifts the way a person normally drives - that's total BS. I have had my truck for over 2 years and it still shifts poorly. Besides the above I love my truck very much, GM just has to fix this problem..." GM knows there is a problem. It has issued both notices to its dealer's technicians and also TSBs. However, it has yet to find a solution that works. There is a class action suit that you can learn more about here. Our questions for our members are; 1) Have you experienced any issues with your 8-speed, and 2) was the dealer able to fix it? Let us know in the comments below.

GM has available now factory camper mirrors! Time for a nice run down on them and what is involved. What they are: Factory tow mirrors. https://accessories.chevrolet.com/product/extended-view-tow-mirrors-in-black-84731241?year=2020&make=Chevrolet&model=Silverado%201500&categoryId=98023 Price? Part #? 84731241 is the #, MSRP for the mirror package is $730. What do they feature? Includes lower convex spotter glass, as well as cargo lamps, clearance lamps and integrated turn signal indicator. Manual extend and manual fold. The good: -GM has factory tow mirrors available as an accessory for trucks that don't have them! The bad: - 2020+up ONLY at the moment. They do NOT list them for 2019. - They DO REQUIRE HARNESS SWAPS. Both front doors require new door harnesses. - If you have the front spotter lights in the mirrors or have blind spot alert, THESE WILL NOT WORK! - BCM calibration required for ALL models to make all lighting function. If you have the dealer do it, its about 3.6 hours. Harness numbers will be listed below: 2020-2021 Crew and Double Cab with KEYED ignition and DLF mirror: 84622369 and 84622370 2020-2021 Regular Cab with KEYED ignition and DLF mirror: 84622376 and 84622380 2020-2021 Crew and Double Cab with PUSH BUTTON ignition and DLF mirror: 84622371 and 84622372

Hello, I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Crew Cab 5.3L, no aftermarket parts or wiring in it, all stock. I had ice on my windshield this morning, not thinking i tried to use my wipers and washer fluid to defrost my windshield. The wipers did not move at all due to the ice, so i turned turned the wiper switch back to the off position. After chipping the ice away, the wipers started in the constant low speed setting and would not stop! Tried turning the truck off but they stayed on. I disconnected the battery and reconnected but the issue continued, so i pulled the fuse as a temporary fix. Does anyone know what this could be?? To my understanding it could be the wiper pulse board, fuse box, or the wiper switch arm. The turn signals and washer fluid still work fine so i don't believe it would be the wiper switch arm. I have checked online and it seems that others have had this issue but it happened randomly, so i'm hoping that since my problem seems to be directly from using the wipers when they were stuck, it may be an easy diagnosis. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access. With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it. This "How To" is in first draft form. I just wanted to get it out there for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off. Photos will be added to this tutorial after Christmas A Video will be added to this tutorial after New Years --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools needed 7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior! We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example. Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards. Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work The Steps Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top. Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover. Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the piano key switches. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip. Position console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the HVAC/switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the HVAC/switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place. Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached. Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place. For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness. Reverse steps to reassemble. Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.

Is anyone else having an issue where the automatic start-stop feature on the vehicle stopped working? I just got the truck about 3 weeks ago (Brand New) and this is the only feature giving me an issue. It worked at first, but after driving it a week, it has not worked since. The only modification I have done on the truck is change out the License Plate light bulbs from halogen to LED. I'm at the dealership right now and they can't figure it out, so they are trying to contact GM regarding this issue. No error codes showing up according to them.

Hi Everyone, I could have sworn I already posted this, but I can't find it anywhere. My 2015 GMC Sierra All Terrain SLT 1500 truck's media center seems is glitchy, it's either that or I have a haunted truck. I'll be driving and my radio display and my odometer display will randomly start selecting items and cycling through the menu, it will randomly change stations, and one time it even selected voice command, all without any input. Anyway, I've experienced this issue before and I took it to the dealer and while they told me they had never heard or seen the issue before they suggested that they would perform a software / firmware update on my infotainment / intellilink system to see if that would fix the issue and it worked.... for a few months, now it's back. I was wondering if anyone here has experienced the same thing and if they were able to find a permanent fix for it? It is absolutely annoying and very distracting. I have searched this forum and I haven't seen a post from a member that has the same thing that I have experienced. Any help would be appreciated, I'd like to have a permanent fix for this once and for all. I've include a video of what's going on.

After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship. Here is the build. 2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L Block: GM 6.2L. Forged crankshaft Forged rods Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons. Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job PAC spring/ Valve Kit. Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe TSP AFM delete kit Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body Ported L86 intake manifold. All ARP bolts or studs. Fuel: GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors GM ZR1 fuel pump Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines. Turbo: Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm. Turbo smart 50mm BOV Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate Pro Boost controller fully wrapped exhaust Cooling/Oil separators Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4” Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler 2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans. Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat. Transmission: Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall. I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.

Recently I noticed my navigation not working in my 2016 Sierra Denali. The GPS has a red X over it. I have done some research and most people are saying the green onstar light on the rearview mirror turned red when they had an issue. Mine is still lit green but no GPS signal. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a fix?

I bought a 2011 GMC Sierra just over a month ago from my dad and the volt meter on the dash is reading about 16. The alternator and battery were both changed in the spring. I put an LED taillight strip on a few weeks ago and I'm thinking it could possibly have something to do with that? When I was driving home for the holidays I got ago halfway and the check engine light came on but then went away later that night after it had been sitting for a while. When I was on my way back the light came back on and hasn’t went off. The command start also doesn’t work when the light is on.

So about a week ago, I got the "Left rear indicator failure" I figured it was just a bulb. So I put it off for a couple days. However, this Saturday I decided to change out the bulbs. Well the bulbs are good and also the fuses. I checked the wires that come from the junction box and they where all good. Any idea what it could be? The running lights work, but when it comes to stoping and the turn signal I get nothing. This shit is driving me crazy. This is what I've been told: - I need a new Junction Box. - I need to replace the fuse box in the engine bay Please help, thanks for anything!

okay you guys i know this might sound odd but i am trying to find some led lights to replace the park sensors on my new bumper. the reason is it is a bumper replacement bumper and it is only made with the holes pre-drilled and my pickup is NOT equipped with the park sensor feature. i have looked every where trying to find the size of the holes so that i can kinda narrow down my search but i am not having any luck. i am hope maybe yall have some knowledge to lend me. thank you in advanced!!

Alright everyone... now that we've seen what the all new Sierra will look like, I think it's time for a good ol fashion'd vote down. Which truck do you like best? Which one would you buy? Which design do you like better? There can be only one! Place your vote now. VERSUS and of course, this is all just for good fun.

I’m installing some lights in the grill of my AT4 and would like them to come on with the parking lights. I do not want to cut into the wiring. Does anyone know a good place to pick up a connection to not have to splice wires?

Having a 4wd issue not sure whats goin on. Truck seems to not be goin into 4wd can hear the actuator trying. The selector knob shows its in an shifting in an out then get a information message that 4wd is off. An no code are showing. Havent been able to find anyone else with this issue. Tried pulling the 4wd trec fuse an battery.

I’m at my wits end over this I’m not sure if it’s been discussed on here yet but I’m having a serious problem with my truck going into limp mode at random. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra, SLT, Z71 (newer body style) It runs fine for weeks, sometimes even months. Out of nowhere it’ll go into limp mode with these dash warnings: ”engine power reduced” ”traction control off” ”service traction control” ”service stabilitrack” Readings are: P2138 C0242 C0899 C0900 I replaced the engine due to a cam and lifter problem about 3 yrs ago. The truck started acting up about a month after the engine was replaced. The engine is still under warranty. -I’ve changed the gas pedal sensor. -I’ve changed the throttle body and throttle positioning sensor. -I’ve changed the electronic control module (ECM) -I’ve changed the electronic brake control module (EBCM) -I’ve even replaced the battery cables -I’ve added a new ground wire, thinking I had a bad ground somewhere. - I’ve checked and cleaned all connections into the throttle body, gas pedal, and all the plug ins I could see and get to. I had a guy tell me to look at the brake booster and possibly change that. It might be leaking or something. I’m not sure if that’s accurate advice and I haven’t done anything to the brake booster. Other than fooling with the brake booster, I’ve literally done everything I know to do except change the entire wiring harness!!! I don’t want to do that though. I love the truck and I don’t want to sell it but Im tired of putting money into it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m on the verge of pushing it off of a tall cliff! help! - James

Ok so long story short I found a big oil puddle in my driveway after parking my 14 Sierra with the 5.3. The dealer I took it to said the rear main seal blew and the cause was the combination of cold temperatures and the oil catch can that I put on the vehicle. I installed the elite engineering e2 can with one way check valve. Has anyone else had this issue? They're telling me since I put that system on it voids the warranty and I have to pay for the rear main needless to say I'm pretty pissed