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NEW BILL SO WE CAN REPAIR OUR TRUCKS

Hey everyone. I have a 2016 Sierra Denali. A while back I opted to do away with the magnaride struts and installed BIlstein 6112s in the front with Cognito UCAs and BIlstein 5100s in the rear, also added Xineering bypass kit to clear the Magnaride errors. I had an issue recently with the stop mount on the drivers side strut blowing out. I contacted BIlstein about it and the rep told me he thought he had been told that the distance between the LCA and where the strut mounts into the truck frame at the top on a magnaride equipped Denali is shorter than a normal Sierra and that it was possible that the strut was too compressed, causing it to push through the top mount. Has anyone ever heard this or experienced this issue? I can’t find anything mentioned about it anywhere. I’m taking the truck in next week to get it fixed but if it’s going to just happen again I am wondering if I need to get different struts all together.

I need to add power to my power seats can I get ground and power from my audio system and connect it to the pins on the seat plug to be able to get power and move the seat

Sharing experience for your info and any ideas you might have. My shiny new 2021 GMC Sierra Denali 3.0 Duramax Diesel with 4900 miles on it has been losing its mind. I get multiple, rotating DIC messages: “Service ESC”, “Service Parking Brake”, “Service ABS”, “Adaptive Cruise Control Disabled”, “Steering Assist Reduced Drive with Care”, . . . ). The error messages come with other “benefits” besides disabled cruise control. I also enjoy no GPS signal, no Blind Spot sensors, no collision avoidance sensors, and who knows what else. Fortunately, the diagnostic codes were stored so the tech could see them, and I provided video of the DIC messages each time, too. They are on their 4th attempt to repair it now. First time, they replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor (4025920) . Second time, they tried the same thing and replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor, again. The 3rd time, they inspected the engine harness but found no damage so they replaced the pigtail to the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor and followed an 8 hr rest cycle and road test protocol. It worked for about 2 hours after I picked it up, then everything lit up again. This (4th) time, they are saying they will replace the entire wiring harness per GM’s direction. I do not want to use Florida’s Lemon Law, but I am starting the process just to be safe. BTW, I’m also getting the “long-crank/no-start” issue. They just applied the ECM update per TSB for this problem, so we’ll see if that worked when/if I get to keep the truck more than a couple hours between service appointments. I was having issues with the passive locking feature where the truck locks the doors a few seconds after I get out with the key in my pocket. It would not work even when set to on. Now that they did the Infotainment software update (V155) this seems to be fixed. I’m still having false messages that the SD Card for the Navigation System has been removed when it has not been. GM has a bulletin out so they know about this issue, but it appears there is no fix action on this one yet. After looking up each code listed on the repair orders (RO’s), I believe the main harness is a very likely cause of all the DIC error messages and system failures. Otherwise, all those modules and sensors involved have gone bad simultaneously. I suppose a power surge of some kind could do that, but then it seems the modules would not work fine in the short time between repairs. Here are the codes the tech reported on the last two Repair Orders (bold codes where noted on both RO’s): 2/5/22: B1A01 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure B395B Side View Camera Left P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0020 Low Speed CAN Bus U0022 Low Speed CAN Communication Bus (+) Low U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0155 Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module 2/10/22: B0967 Parking Aid On/Off Switch Circuit Short to Ground B1AO1 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0131 Lost Communication with Power Steering Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0421 Invalid Data Received From Suspension Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module

Hey Everyone- I have a 2022 AT4 (5700mi) and its it has a shudder/hesitation during steady and/or light throttle acceleration between 25 and 70 MPH. Anyone else experiencing this or has and got it "fixed". Reproduced it for a ride along with the dealer, but need to figure out a plan or approach to fix this. They have mentioned maybe a fuel injector, maybe a new transmission.... Thoughts? Recommendations? Also, what site does everyone use to search for TSB's?

It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.

Like new, Pulsar LT for sale, bought direct from manufacturer. Box is included as well, just can't upload a pic of it for some reason. Had this installed on my 2021 Chevrolet Silverado, took this off when I traded it in. Works great, ~10 months of ownership. Looking for $400, shipping included, within USA. Venmo/Paypal/Zelle preferred.

What suggestions or advice is available for buying a GMC | Chevy truck? What should I watch out for -- the GOOD and BAD? I want to come back to the GMC | Chevy family. For over 20 years, we owned a 98 GMC Suburban, putting over 230k miles on it myself, and I LOVED that truck. Other than typical wear and tear -- I never had any problems or issues with my Suburban. I am looking at 2016-2022 -- GMC | Chevy 1500 | 2500 series, all trims (4x4), except the base models. My budget is around $35k plus'ish; yes, I understand my budget limits what I can get. I am a USAF retired veteran living off a fixed income. Yes, we tow hitch pull RVs and various trailers, but not as often as before. What are the GOOD, BAD, and UGLY these days on the GMC | Chevy trucks? Is the additional price for either diesel and/or 2500 worth it? SHORT STORY: so, a few years ago, I bought a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4 EcoDiesel 6cyl w/turbo Lonestar -- well, I have been disappointed with Chrysler | Fiat (FCA). They lied about the EcoDiesel, and after forced recall ECM updates, they sucked all performance and mpg from the truck. Buying a newish GMC | Chevy, I do not want to fall into what happened with my 2015 Ram. When I had my suburban, I never had so many recalls, been lied to, and never had poor performance. Thanks for any suggestions that you will provide -- Gary (ExFalconFxr)

I'm about to install the Chevy Performance Brembo Brake Upgrade on our Silverado. Has anyone else installed this kit? Anyone thinking about it? At first glance, it seems pretty straightforward. After reading the manual, however, I'm realizing I need to take the front wheel bearings off to access the dust shield. Other than that, it seems to be a easy rotor/caliper replacement. Big thanks to @RyanbabZ71 for recommending a great brake bleeding tool! The front set is a true six-piston caliper. The rear calipers are stock calipers painted red to match the fronts. The size increase on the front rotors is significant. I'm gathering the tools I'll need right now. Hopefully I can tear into it next week. I expect the entire process to take me at least a whole day and maybe two days depending on how it goes. Why so long? I'll be photographing and taking video of the entire process. Can't wait to share that with you all. Check back in this thread for progress updates.

Hello I'm having a problem with these headlight that I installed on my 2015 GMC Sierra. I install the newer Denali headlight the blinker light stay on and when I turn on the driver side blinker it flashes the high beams and stuff. I need some advice the harness I use was from GEN5

Wanted to start a thread about advanced use of Intellilink (Mylink) software and get opinions/insight about open source, code, possibilities for customization, rumors of firmware updates, etc. The "claim" I've heard is that apps will be avaialable in the future, but it doesnt quite sound as simple and prolific as the google play store or itunes app store. There are some short threads about more specific issues like "custom ROMs" for android. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155965-mylink-radio-custom-theme-design/?hl=%2Bopen+%2Bsource#entry1384343 Does anyone have any particulalry cool "ah-ha" moments with useful intellilink features they've discovered, or ones they'd like to see implemented? Or things they aren't sure how they work. I for one don't know how they overlay the doplar radar on my weather/nav map, for example.

Well, I thought it might be a few years before coming to a forum to seek some help! I currently have a 2019 GMC Sierra SLT with 4x4, standard box length, 6.2L engine with tow package added, at around 20000kms (around 12K miles?) And I have been running premium fuel in that beast since day one. My engine made a few pinging noises one day while going up a small hill, then the MIL engine light came on. It hasn't made those noises since. I took it to the local dealer to scan, but the first time they took it in, they did a programming upgrade (recall) to the computer before scanning it for codes, so it erased all history and cleared the MIL engine light. About a month later, the light came on again, no engine noise this time. I took it back to the dealer, due to COVID regulations I couldn't be in the vehicle when they scanned it, so that service advisor cleared the light and codes. (Double piss-of now) It came on a third time, after 2 weeks since it cleared and it was the Knock sensor again.. This time I wouldn't leave the truck while they diagnosed with the scanner. Code: P0328 - Knock Sensor Circuit High bank 1 It has been in the shop now for 4 working days, and the advisor called me today: -They took a fuel sample and sent it to the lab for GM to confirm I had been running premium fuel in the truck. -They believe that there may be a "parasitic draw' on the wiring harness from the ECM to knock sensor -They found lower than normal voltages at the knock sensor -They have wait to be advised by GM Canada to go ahead to replace the wiring first, then the knock sensor and the possibly the ECM if the lower voltage doesn't rectify Yikes... Would a faulty knock sensor cause pinging in the engine? Apparently with this model year and config there has been two vehicles previously exhibiting these conditions. One was from an individual running a higher than normal ethanol blended, lower octane fuel. The other had wiring harness issues. Apparently there is no specific TSB related to this exact issue, although wiring harnesses seem to pop up in question in other threads. I will keep the thread updated. Any insight appreciated. Cheers, Andrew

Zane & Josh, The Merva Brothers Co-Founders, GM-Trucks.com October 2018 Pickup utility racks have been an option for anyone looking to haul around longer objects for decades. They've gotten the job done when stuff like ladders, wood, and canoes needed moved from one place to another. With the options of bed sizes shrinking over the past few years, a stylish and functional utility rack can add, well , a lot of utility to your full size or midsize truck. Unfortunately, not many racks look as good as they function and take away from the aesthetics of our vehicle. So, when we found a new aluminum utility rack that looked as professional as our truck, we wanted to try it out. In an effort to find a stylish utility rack we're reviewing the Agri-Cover ADARAC Aluminum Series. What is it? Agri-Cover ADARAC Aluminum Series Model Number 4001238 For 2007-2013 Silverado/Sierra 1500 with 6' 6" bed MSRP: $491.30 / $578 MSRP (as of October 2018) Manufacturer Website: https://www.agricover.com/truck-bed-racks/ Installation Time: 1-hour Installation Difficulty: Easy with basic mechanical skills and a helping hand Main Features Rust resistant aluminum construction No drill installation Compact and narrow upright designs Four load dividers included Compatable with Access-Cover bed covers What We Like Modern and stylish brushed aluminum design Thick stamped upright supports are super staunch Modular attachment points and accessories Uprights can be removed or installed with one person 500-lb capacity What We Don’t Like Stamped parts have sharp edges out of the box Can't re-position uprights without tools Rack as a whole can restrict what you put in the bed unless removed Tie-down holes are only barely bigger than a standard hook ADARAC Aluminum Series Unboxing The ADARAC came securely shipped in a long and moderately heavy box. One person can move the packaging around but two would be easier. We started out by unpacking our rack, laying out all of the parts and reading the manual. We found hardware packaging was excellent with no missing parts. The manual was clear and easy to understand. Nothing was scratched or damaged. The stamped aluminum uprights came covered in a protective sheeting/fabric and looking as if they were straight out of the forming machine. We almost cut ourselves on the uprights because no clean up work had been done to remove burrs or sharp edges. A smooth edge would have been a lot better and easier to handle. Once everything was organized and we had familiarized ourselves with the installation manual, we started to get to work. ADARAC Aluminum Series Installation We installed this rack at the same time as our Access-Cover Lorado Roll Up Cover. If you're doing something similar, don't make the same mistake we did and try to install the rack before the cover. It won't work, as the ADARAC blocks the bed-stake holes when installed. The same stake holes you need access to for installing the Lorado, so install your bed cover first. Speaking of...check our our full review of the Access-Cover Lorado here After getting ahead of ourselves, we detoured and installed our cover before coming back to the ADARAC. The first step was to lay down the side rails and secure them to the stake pockets on the bed using compression style fittings. The attachment method is slick, requiring no drilling or cutting. It's also fully reversible and doesn't damage your bed. Best of all, the rails are never going to move. The first step is to drop the compression plates into the stake holds and tighten down the rails with two clamps/bolts per rail. Then we measured the distance between the installed rails on the bed and set the uprights at the same distance on the floor. We used some old shop towels to prevent scratching the pretty aluminum. Next, we attached the crossbars at the measured width making sure to center everything up. We then tightened the assembled front and back racks on the ground before lifting them up to the truck bed. A few bolts and adjustments later... our racks are on the truck. The best part about aluminum racks is that the front and rear sections are light enough for one person to install or remove them without help. The rear upright mounting bolts are in a tight space when installed with a bed cover and we couldn't use a socket wrench to tighten them down. And before we knew it, our Sierra had a new utility rack and bed cover. Total installation time took right around one hour and was easy enough to do with one person but would be quicker with two. ADARAC Aluminum Series Final Thoughts An entire summer has gone by since we first installed our ADARAC Aluminum Series Utility Rack and we've been extremely glad we've had it as a tool on our GMC. We've used the ADARAC to help build a new bathroom, take our canoe to the local lake for a relaxing afternoon, and moved our ladder around to help with projects at home and work. The ADARAC has conquered every task we've thrown at it. It's never bent, felt flimsy, or failed to hold our cargo firmly in place. Basically... exactly what you want from a utility rack. The brushed aluminum finish and sleek stamped uprights also look good too. If the $500 price tag is too much, Agri-Cover offers the standard version of the ADARAC which is constructed with steel instead but uses the same basic design. Or, if you need a little wider load, the ADARAC Aluminum Pro Series is designed for larger objects and capacities. If you're in the market for a good looking, well functioning and indestructible utility rack for your truck, we recommend you look at the Agri-Cover ADARAC Utility Rack. Editor's Note: This product was provided at no cost for the purposes of a review. We only publish our honest opinions and give no consideration for the gratis product. ADARAC Aluminum Series Installation Gallery

As the title says, post your long travel set up with the who and why! I'm tired of not being able to find long travel builds to copy off of. Custom or bolt on, doesn't matter. Post pictures of the before and after glass sides if you got them. If a thread like this already exists please share below or if you have a thread for your build. Hopefully this gets some serious attention for the full size community, the Toyotas get all the long travel attention.

I'm interested in a quick read of the room. How does everyone feel about the news that GM is moving in the direction of an battery electric truck? Does the brand it's sold under influence if you'd be interested? Are you ready to buy one now or do you think we should wait it out? Thanks for your opinions!

2014 Sierra 5.3 My truck developed a new shake/hard vibration. While in park I feel it a little, but when I shift to Reverse the shakes starts. Then when I shift to Neutral, it's stops. When in drive, the shakes starts again. Blower motor seems to be fine. While in Park, the motor and belts look normal. As well as under the truck, nothing seems to be moving. Engine mounts looks solid.

Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please.

I’m installing some lights in the grill of my AT4 and would like them to come on with the parking lights. I do not want to cut into the wiring. Does anyone know a good place to pick up a connection to not have to splice wires?

Let’s see some pictures of those refreshed silverados/sierras.

I have finally got around to finalizing the install of the OEM RSE system for my 2016 Silverado HD. This was the only option that I wanted that my pickup did not come with so I am extremely happy this is done and so is my son! I would like to give a BIG THANKS to Anthony and John at MVI (www.gm-navigation.com) as they are extremely knowledgeable and their customer service is top notch. I purchased MVI's in-dash Blu-ray and RSE kits along with the unlocked HMI module and added their HDMI input and third brake lamp camera with switch. The unlocked HMI is definitely worth the money over a Lockpick as you have full control while in motion and don’t have to worry about the Lockpick failing as I had 2 of 2 fail in my old 2010 Silverado. MVI supplied most of the parts though I did source a few parts from the dealer as I did vary a little from MVI's kit as I wanted the RSE controls in the center console which their current kit does not yet have but was told it is on their to-do list with many other projects. Their HDMI kit requires the RSE controls as you tap into those inputs. I removed one of the cigar lighter outlets in the front of the center console and mounted the HDMI input there. If you stick to their kit, the install is fairly simple IF you have a sunroof. Once again, MVI offers great customer service in case you do run into any glitches. They are also a vendor on here as well if you did not know. NOTE: ***NON-SUNROOF VEHICLES*** You do need a new headliner if you don't have a sunroof as you need the mounting bracket for the screen which offsets the screen from of the original position of the overhead dome lamp leaving ts existing hole exposed. On sunroof vehicles, the dome lamp and screen use the sunroof frame to mount to and you just enlarge the existing dome lamp hole.

2017 GMC Sierra I want to fit 35s on my stock wheels and have the smallest lift i can do. I don’t want to do a whole lot of cutting maybe no cutting at all. What size lift or level can I do

Would like to know if I can turn off the seat belt chime. I wear the belt on the highway but around job sites It's a pain.

I am having problems with my air conditioning again. My A/C is blowing warm air and this is the second time I have had this problem since buying my 2015 Sierra less than 6 months ago. A few months ago I had the exact same problem and my dealership diagnosed it as a leaking hose and all of the freon was gone. They had to order a new hose and it took a week for it to come in. They installed the new hose and added more freon and it has been fine for the past 3 months until today. This morning I noticed that the air coming out was warmer than normal even though I have the A/C set at 65 degrees. It was fine yesterday. I am going to monitor it and see if it gets worse and if so make an appointment to take it to the dealer again. Just wondering if anyone else has had to replace the hose or had a freon issue with their 2014 or 2015 Sierra / Silverado?

I've been wanting to install longtube headers on my 2007 sierra classic for awhile and now that I've noticed that the OEM exhaust manifold is cracked and one stud is broken I think it's the time to do so. Just wondering what info i should know before doing so. Do I need to have it tuned? I currently have a cold air intake, throttle body spacer and cat back exhaust but that's pretty much it.

Currently have my 2020 Gmc sierra 1500 with a build date of 09/2019 at the dealer with 2kmiles on it. Battery was dead one morning. After jump starting had check engine light and brake antilock system issue sent to my email. Truck would not hold a charge after leaving it on for a good 30 min. Its been at the dealer for 3days now.