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Found 158 results

  1. I could really use some advice, I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 4.8l rwd. I'm buying a used truck very soon, either a 2005 Silverado 1500hd LS at 135k miles for $10k or a 2005 Sierra 1500hd SLE at 156k miles for $8.5k. They are both stock and same condition exterior. I am looking to put a cam, tune, stage 2 trans, 6in lift and some other goodies in it. I am completely stuck on which one to get, any experiences or advice could really help me.
  2. I currently have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 4x4 Diesel Crew Cab, short bed. It's my perfect truck, it's exactly what I want, it's exactly what I need. I have equity in it and I decided to refinance... It has 152K miles. Bank said, you qualify for the loan but your truck doesn't : - ( Truck has to be under 125K miles. It can be an older truck but not high miles. So I'm in the market for basically the same thing but lower miles. I'm wanting to keep my price down, cash in on some equity and keep my payments the same or lower. If A truck at $20K gets my payments lower. $25K my payments are the same. $30K my payments go up. I don't want to go over $30K unless there's a compelling reason to do so. My truck gets used 4 to 6 times per month on average. Either to haul hay or haul horses. I'm leaning towards more of a ranch vehicle right now. At the same time, I've got a 2011 and I'm not super excited about downgrading either. I'd just keep mine but I need to take my equity and pay off some higher interest loans. I'd appreciate some suggestions... Here's what I've been looking at: A 2005 Silverado 3500 HD fully loaded for $20K with 123K miles on it. The only thing it doesn't have is the exhaust brake which I can add. Are the 2005's a good way to go? This one is local. Next one up is a 2011 GMC Sierra 2500 Extended Cab 116K miles for $25K I'm looking at two 2013's -- a Sierra 3500 ext. cab for $30K with 120K miles (local) and a Silverado crew cab with 115K miles for $28K (8 hours away) I drove a 2012 with 80K miles that I can probably get for around $34K It's over my budget but what a nice truck! This one is local The best deal I've found is 3 hours away on a 2015 Silverado 2500LT for 30K with low miles. If that one is still available I might have to go for it just because it's a great deal! Only three of the trucks on this list are close by. The best deals on this list I'd have to travel a couple hundred miles to get to 'em. What are some other great years to consider? Should I consider anything older than 2011? The 2011 has all the factory built in towing features that I love. But that 2005 is a really good deal on a nice truck too. Thanks in advance for your recommendations.
  3. I have a 99 Silverado 1500 with the floor shift transfer case. I’ve been having an issue with my 4wd fuse on the interior fuse panel. Whenever I turn the key the fuse instantly blows wether I’m in 2wd or 4wd hi and low. I’ve seen around that that fuse is for the front axle actuator so I looked around and couldn’t find any obvious shorts, could it be a short in the motor itself?
  4. Hey all, New owner of a 2016 Z71 with 20,000 miles. Had a bunch of snow over the past week (have had the truck for a week) and I basically ran it in 4 high for 5 days straight. About 150 miles. I forgot to turn it off on a dryer day (was -20 out but no snow on the roads) and probably did about 25 miles of city driving. The internet is all over the place in opinions, ranging from you’re probably ok to don’t even drive a mile on dry roads. I was not aggressive, very gentle what with the cold. No fast turns. Still, I’m a bit worried I’ve fouled something up. There was never any popping or grinding, just a bit of whining in turns. I’ve since driven about 100 miles in two wheel with no issues, and just took it out in a field and threw it in 4 high. Did some tight circles both directions and heard no noise at all. Any thoughts?
  5. Ok so I have a 99 sierra 2500 4x4 6.0. Parked it last night no problems. Get in this morning back out and put in drive . As I pushed the gas and started straightening the steering wheel the front driver side made a loud pop sound. After that accelerating I had a vibration for a while. Stop and take off no pop but vibration. I drove for about 45 mins vibration went away. I put in 4wd low no issues 4wd hi no issues. Any clues?
  6. Just bought a 2014 sierra 4x4 and ordered the 2" kit to level it out. On rough country's website they say that this kit only allows for up to a 32" tire, and I am looking to put 33s. I am new to GM, what's the biggest tires that I can fit?
  7. Truck was purchased new in November 2014. It's the 5.3L, with 3.42 gears. SLT crew cab short box 4x4 model. I added the G4 Elite Fold-A-Cover week 1.
  8. 1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights. The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor. When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever. With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd. Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn? My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away. I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too. Thanks
  9. So when the truck was newer I used 4x4 a few times and it would make almost a metallic grinding noise when turning. I took it into the dealership multiple times trying to get a fix and they kept saying there was no fix. So be it. It works still even with the noise. This truck was always maintained by the dealership until 80k miles. At 72kmiles the check engine light came on almost out of no where and I took it to the dealership to find out the injectors were bad! What the heck! Then andother 8k later the rear differential started leaking oil and I had to replace that. That was fun 4K into a 2015 truck in the same year in repairs that shouldn’t have happened that early in the trucks life. Thennnnnnnnn at 104k the transmission went out!!!! What in the heck! All of these repairs were done in a 9 month period. 10k into a 4 year old truck. I’m very disappointed in this truck. I always kept up on oil changes and most maintenance. I did not flush the transmission at 60 but that still should not have put my transmission out at 100k. I have towed about 4K max behind this truck less then 8 times for no more then a total of 200 miles so I’m not rough on the transmission. I’ve also only had it off-road 1x early on in its life so definitely not had a rough life. Almost 60% of the miles are freeway miles. These problems should not be happening to a Chevy truck. I’m really disappointed. All my ford friends have given me so much Crapp and honestly, I may as well have bought a cheaper not as well designed truck and saved myself about 10-15% on the ford truck. Not sure if there’s any possibility of gettting any of that 10k covered from Chevy but that would really make me think a lot higher of the brand.
  10. Rotor and hub assembly removal/replacement 2015 silverado 1500 LT 4x4 Long time lurker, first time poster I was in the process of changing the brakes and rotors, which was going fine until I got around to the passenger front. I get the caliper bracket off and get the brakes out of the way. Then that’s when i did it, I snapped off the tip of a t-30 torx bit in the head of the brake rotor torx bolt. I’ve tried everything that I can thing of to get it out. Ive tried to drill a small 1/16” hole in the center of the broken bit to have an edge to work with. I’ve tried hand impact tools to just work around it and get the bolt out with no luck. I’ve watched a bunch of good videos, but had no luck so far. That’s bring me to a possible ‘solution,’ as I have to change out the hub assembly,Moog 515160, anyway. I’m think that I could just remove the spindle nut, and the hub hardware bolts and that should release both the rotor and hub as one piece? Thanks in advance for any thoughts, info, guidance! I’ll get some pics to add tomorrow in the daylight.
  11. I'll start of by admitting I'm a noob when it comes to trucks. I have a 2015 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Z71 LTZ with stock 265/60/20's. I have a new 1/2 mile long dirt driveway (New England,) which I have to plow. I've been back and forth about whether to get A/T's or M/S's... and sizes. I'd love a recommendation. I'm looking at getting new rims as I'll go with 17" or 18". Being a dirt driveway, it also get's pretty muddy. I need a tire I can also run on highway, but a good tire for plowing is key. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
  12. 2011 Chevrolet Silverado LT Extended Cab 4WD Long Bed Four Wheel Drive 120K miles Tonneau cover with new lift struts LED bed lights Running boards installed 12/2017 6 seats (front center console folds down into a seat) Clean title. THIS TRUCK IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION! Interior is perfect Exterior is perfect Runs like new! No warning lights 6-speed transmission with tow/haul mode and manual gear select Towing package with integrated trailer brake controller Michelin tires, excellent condition all around. Dash mat Chevrolet Stereo Bluetooth w/ CD player and USB and auxiliary inputs OnStar I have had this truck since 2014. Some preventative maintenance items since then: New battery last year (Duralast Gold) Always used synthetic oil every 3K to 4K miles Rear differential fluid was flushed at 97K miles Upgraded cooling, including a thicker radiator, extra transmission cooler and extra engine oil cooler. Upgraded rear air shocks (Monroe Max-Air)
  13. Well guys, it finally happened with the 2019's coming out and all these dealers trying to move their new and used 18's I broke down and upgraded my 2014 GMC 1500 to a Certified 2018 Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71 w/ only 2700 miles! I am pretty excited about it, she's bone stock and she won't last that way for long. Going from 35's to stocks is going to be quite the transition at first, but don't fret! There are changes coming soon and I figured I would track my build right here, hope y'all will enjoy! It already started yesterday as I did some research and discovered my K & N cai will fit on the 2018, so I pulled that off and put the stock intake back on, also took the hidden light bar out of the grill, and of course took my good ole trusty tool box off (this will be truck number 5 for the tool box!). I placed an order just a few minutes ago and there are more goodies coming soon! Please let me know if y'all have any comments, ideas, or questions!
  14. Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
  15. Hello all. New to the forum and I appreciate any help. So I’m climbing a 10% grade, well maintained dirt road that’s covered in packed snow the other day and suddenly I get the warning ding and a message that says 4 wheel drive off. Rear end breaks loose, traction control stops the climb, and I’m stuck. Truck off and on a couple times, will start shift into 4 wheel drive then does the same thing. Had to chain up to get out. Owners manual says this will happen when the 4 wheel drive system is overheating. I had used it for about 2 minutes and nothing was more than warm to the touch. Can’t find anything online about it. I have no idea where to go from here without going to the dealership and spending all that cash! Any help is much appreciated. 2014 Sierra 1500 Crew, 4.3L 6, 98k.
  16. Ok, something just started happening with our 2016 GMC 2500HD Denali 4x4 with the diesel. The remote door lock and unlock won't work every time from either of our fobs. We bought this truck last August so I can't imagine the batteries in both of our fobs have died at the exact same time and only 7 months in. My fob gets used the most with my wife's fob barely getting used at all. Anyone else experience/experiencing this? And, what did you do to remedy it? I guess we can try replacing batteries first, but batteries only lasting 7 months in a fob? And both failing at the same time, especially given one gets frequent use and one barely gets any use. We know it's not a fuse because it does work from time to time.
  17. Hey fellas I’m new to this forum and was torn on which topic I should post this question in. Okay as you can see I have a leak.. I drive a 2002 Chevy 1500 4.3 V6 4x4. I have a coolant leak the size of Texas underneath passenger side directly above the starter and right below the furthest back spark plug on passenger side. I am stumped. Is that head gasket or lower intake or, or, or? My question is how do I figure out for sure what is causing this leak? I’m not the most advanced mechanic but usually if I can take something apart I can put it back together with the help of asking questions and YouTube. (Lol) I appreciate any help I can get from you!
  18. ***EDIT: Now that we've listed this truck for sale in a few places online, we've lowered the price to $10,900 OBO!*** All - I've finally decided to let go of my '03 GMC 1500HD. This has been a great truck for me, but I have one more vehicle than I have garage bays, and I don't want to leave it sitting outside. This truck is loaded (see my signature), and I have kept detailed records since purchasing it in 2010. I bought it with 91K miles, and I'm selling with 170K. I average 6-7K per year with it over the past few years, and it's a garage queen. It has spent most of its life in Texas and is completely rust-free, with no irreversible modifications. The engine, transmission, auto 4WD, and Quadrasteer systems are all rock-solid. I can provide much more information on request, but I am reaching out to the forum to see if anyone is specifically looking for a good Quadrasteer truck. We're asking $10,900 OBO, and I have an offer on the table a little north of $10K right now. I can let it go for that, but I'm open to a better offer from someone that will appreciate the unique features of this truck. Thanks in advance for having a look!
  19. Hello How it going? I wanted post and ask some questions as along the way and see if I am crazy enough to upgrade and discuss about modifying a stock GMC 2016 4x4 2500HD 6.0L Gas suspension system. The truck needed a nice smooth riding stability control system on it's suspension system and along it needed to takes more weight load carrying capacity controls from major loads when towing big loads from over hauling trailers. Plus even on it's no-loads capacity as well when you need to drive on a everyday needs in all conditions from all driving ability and keep safe from going out of control from all major issues on the roads conditions on a stock 2500HD/3500HD, I can tell things are getting out of control as conditions are getting worsts beyond our controls when dealing with a stock HD trucks suspension system on a bad roads conditions. Anyway I wanted to upgrade this truck to improve the truck without spending to much money but enough for the truck to drive better than possible so here some ideas and list of parts of modifications that I have studied and thought about thought I post something asked and shared and discuss as asking some ideas for some upgrades. Thanks for helping guys as I need some helps. So far I already installed a rear Hellwig Big Wig Sway bar the model # is 7270 and have it on the medium setting on the links holes for the sway bars as it on the #2 holes. The center hole is considered is medium setting. The far out as #1 hole is the lose setting and far back to the axle #3 hole is tighter setting for the sway bar settings. And I have to say I already feel a huge improvements to the rear suspension by adding a rear sway bar. I can tell by it does prevents the waving as rocking side to side when driving into a drive ways or pulling into a intersections or running over pot holes or curbs or jumping over a railways or hills and some major improvements on things like those quadruple humps and ripples as dips on the road that make your whole truck shake everywhere and wobbling back and forth from going over on those melted asphalt from the roads and highways as it swerves out of control at a high speed and including hauling something that makes it bounce everywhere even to lose control on a empty bed. Plus the improvements over driving into by turning fast and pilling out or in front of the traffic as keeping the truck lock down on the road to pull in and it enforce it from leaning over, keeping the truck from waving over as swerving out of control from rocking by it side. And the sway bar does improve towing. It help you to control your trailer from losing out of control from a dodge moments on cars and winds and other moments to prevent your trailer from wobbling on a highways. Keep the back end stable as twisting the roll body of the truck especially pillingout on a burn out. it been been lot of flooding in Texas lately and I need to spray paint it black and painted the u bolts as well as keeping it from rusting including the axle drive staff joint. Rust is a disease to metal. I only have this 3 months of use of this Hellwig and this truck has 9,786 miles on it. Now the questions is do I needed to go ahead and buy the front sway bar? And put a bigger heavier duty links as well that hooks on to the front sway bars? I don't know what size the is the original stock front sway bars as in inches from as American scale, so far, I founded out the size it is 1.250 of a inch? Is that 1 inch and 3/8 in size? or is that 1 and half of a inch? And the links that came with the truck looks little poor. Looks like it needed to be on a 1500 models trucks and asking for a bigger set of links to control the front of the sway bars on the 2500HD front end suspension. But anyway the Hellwig has a 1 and 1/2 of a inch in thickness of the sway bar and if the the truck stock sway bars is the same size then I don't need to get it it be a waste of money by having the same size bars. I don't know if that make anything big of a different but maybe it will in tightness of a sway bars as for front suspension system if it little bigger right? Anyway here are the list of the modifications upgrades for the suspension system packages that are listed for a smooth ride with major medium payloads capability. Feel free to post some idea of some more modifications suspension system for a stock GMC /Chevy 4x4 2500HD / 3500HD 2014 to 2019. Hellwig Rear Sway Bar 7270.......Weight: 8,000lbs Hellwig Front Sway Bar 7716......Weight: 5,000lbs Hellwig Leaf Helper Springs Stabilizer LP-3512.....Weight: 3500lbs Leaf Spring Shocks Absorbed Sulastic Shackle For Axle SA-06...Non-affect load carrying capacity BDS NX2 Single Steering Stabilizer with Mounting Bracket Kit.....Get Boot Cover Protection PPE Stage 3 Tie Rod Assemblies #158031511.....Has Larger Ball Joints and Staff SuperSpring Front Sumo Spring SSF-202-54......Weight: 2000lbs SuperSpring Rear Sumo Spring SSR-203-40-2....Weight: 2600lbs Max at 80% 3000lbs G2 GM 10.5" 14 Bolt Rear Brute Ball Milled Aluminum Differential Axle Cover.....Amsoil 95W-140 Gear Oil Fox Shocks 2.5 Reservoir Front and Rear. These are my upgrades for a medium high performance stabilizer for the truck suspension system modifications. As for tires and rims I would love to have a 20 inch rims with 285/65/20 tires Or 18 inch rims with 285/70/18 tires one day. This should improves the overalls of the trucks capability right? Dream engine on this truck is LS1 427 32V 6.2L 25MPG on this 2500HD 4.10 gear ratio with the twin as y air filter intake system with dual exhaust .... Goals <3.. I wish I could afford this and to put a 8 speed tranny on it.
  20. I’m looking for any information on swapping gen3 5.3 With a gen4 controller (I want to use the 6L80e transmission.) I know the knock sensors are in the valley cover and it has the 24x reluctor and 1x cam sensor. I’ve heard it is possible to relocate the knock sensors to where they are on gen 4 block and swap reluctors and cams to work with the gen 4 controller, does anyone have any experience with actually doing so?
  21. Husky Liners VS Weather Tech Both are Max coverage floor liners, I bought the husky liners after seeing my buddies 2018 silverado with the weather tech liners. They Both are great in their own ways. I have some pro's and con's for both I paid 210.80 on amazon, I don't recall exactly what he paid for the Weather tech laser fit ones on their website its about 190 before shipping. Starting with the husky liners Pro's - Fit - I myself like the way that they fit, so much that i would say its perfect for me. They match the contour of the floors perfectly without coming up in any spots. - Material -They used a good material with a nice rubbery feel. Easy to remove and clean, Pull them out spray them off with water let them dry and their are back to looking brand new out of the box. - Stay Put Cleats - On both the driver and passenger side. The driver side has the factory "pop in" Holders that help keep them in place as well. Con's - Although they have the cleats to help keep them in place, The passenger side one does move around a little bit. - They also do not go as high up on the sides as the weather tech liners, This can be a Pro or a Con depending on what you are looking for. - If you have the Jump seat in the front they offer the liners in a 3 piece set to get full coverage of the hump in the center as well. I opted for no coverage on that but still, this could be a pro or a con again depending on what your looking for. I cannot speak for the weather tech liners, Since they are not in my daily driver. However I can say there is one con on the weather tech's. I noticed when I was riding in the other truck on the passenger side, The liner is supposed to hug the side, and it does not. Weather they had it packed and it bent the liner or what ever the case may be it doesn't fit properly now. and ill attach photos of both fronts and back. Overall Im happy with the husky liners and ill continue to purchase them. They work for me just well. Thanks for reading, If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a message.
  22. Hello forum. I come to you from Buckhannon, WV, as the Business Manager for a local well plugging and servicing company. We recently leased 4 diesel 2500HD 4x4 work trucks to add to our fleet. The new trucks were a great addition until last week. Our employee was reversing one of these new trucks (with an empty trailer) in 4wd on a well prepared, gravel well site, when the yoke on the front driveshaft snapped. When the yoke snapped, the driveshaft disconnected and spun wildly out of control, cracking the bell housing and damaging anything else within its reach. Now a WV Chevy dealer is attempting to deny us a warranty claim on this new truck. My guess is some sort of casting issue with the yoke. The broken metal looks like sandstone. But this dealer is claiming there is no way it is a manufacturer defect and is claiming abuse/misuse with absolutely no credible evidence to support their claim. Hope you are having better luck with your trucks and dealers than us. Steve Buckhannon, WV SKM_C3850180822135100 (5).pdf
  23. 4x4 broke ?

    I recently started having troubles with my 1998 Chevy 1500 and it’s 4 wheel drive I need this because of the terrain I hunt and for the fun I want to have anyways, When I put it into 4 hi it clunks which is normal I hear and same with 4 lo but it doesn’t actually engage all 4 wheels can anyone give me advice on what to start with please
  24. Here's my new to me CPO 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3/8spd LTZ w/ LTZ Plus Package and Z71 Package. Silver Ice on Jet Black Here are pics the day I picked it up from Lone Star Chevrolet in Houston TX on Feb 28. Mods are going to be the usual and will be listed below Thanks for looking!
  25. I am sure this has been brought up in other Topics but I cannot seem to find an answer so here it goes... I have a 2007 GMC Sierra SLT CCSB 4x4 5.3L M engine, on Saturday afternoon I disconnected the ground on my battery to add an aftermarket sub and amp tapped off of the Factory Bose amp. After wiring everything up correctly (just running wires) not even installing the amp or subs I decided to reconnect my Battery and fire up the truck... Funny thing is after plugging it back up and going to start it, it immediately said Service Air Bag, and would not start.. I have checked fuses under the hood, under the dash and on the instrument cluster fuse box and all my fuses are good and working! All doors, windows, lights, remote lock, unlock and alarm work but the truck won't start I have tried the 30min key relearn and redisconnecting the battery for 30 min. Normally my truck has a TPMS Service light on due to me having a bad sensor but it isn't even on right now! Everything works but it just won't even crank it just dies in a sense (it acts like it loses power but as soon as I release the key from start position everything comes back (lights up as normal) seems like I am locked out of the system. Scanned with a Snap On code reader with personality keys... I get a B1370, B1011, U0140, P0690 and a airbag code that I don't recall (I'm at work) after clearing the codes only the B1370 and the Airbag code return.The Service Engine soon light isn't even on either I only get these codes with the snap on scanner.. they don't even show up on my basic scanner.. Yes the battery is good also tried jump starting it just in case checked all fuses and relays, starter works with forced relay and key on but will not start also replaced my ignition switch. Another off topic question is what does The TP in the under the hood fuse box diagram mean? it has it near the 41 Fuse it says TP twice then at the bottom it says TP and has like a book with a key next to it... I'm at a loss right now with what the issue is any help is Appreciated!
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