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Hey y'all, I know this has been talked about a bunch but I just for some reason can't find the info I'm after. I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500, with the 5.3 and 4l60e, its a non z71 but with the same gear ratio I believe. Now I have a couple questions. 1. I want to swap to a 6.0 (maybe with some mods like a small cam, headers, maybe an intake), the 5.3 in the truck has been rebuilt but was used as a work truck and is "tired" so to say. I know a lot of people have said that to make the simplest "plug-and-play" setup to grab a 6.0 from 04-06(07 classic?) and it will run on the stock 5.3 tune (but recommend getting it retuned) I know that you can use the stock 4l60e but put some money into it to make it be able to hold the power and torque of a 6.0. I also know that to swap to a 4l80e trans it would require a crossmember and wiring at least, along with a different driveshaft, and since its 4x4, possible a different transfer case? So answering my own question with confirmation from someone, I could use a 04-06(07 classic?) 6.0 and just do a slight build on the stock 4l60e (which is currently slipping hoping just torque converter)? So on to my next question, I want to swap a z71 axle under the truck rather than the stock open diff. Would it be easier to swap out just the diff or to swap the whole axle? Is there any wiring for the limited slip/locking diff in the z71 axle? And is there a difference in the front diff? Also the truck currently is on 33" tires, and I plan to go to 35"s so should I just wait and have the truck regeared with an aftermarket limited slip or locker? And one final question for the interior guys out there. I hate the 99-02 steering wheel. I wanna swap to a 03-06 steering wheel. I know that the airbag itself will fit if I grab it off a 03-04 HD truck because its single stage, but what about the splines on the steering shaft? are those the same as the 99-02 1500 trucks? Or do I still have to swap that out for a newer steering shaft? Also how bad is it to run heated leather seats in these trucks that didn't have them from factory? I'm doing a mini restobuild on the truck but still need it to be a daily driver. Thanks for any input guys!!!

hey so the other day i was heading to mu aunts when all of a sudden i couldn't go past second. stopped at her place since i was just down the road when it happened. checked fluids and it was ok. topped it up+ added stop slip. now when i drive first gear refuses to shift before 3k then has a super slow yet hard shift. and when i am driving unless I'm doing the speed limit collated with the rpm. nothing will happen/ the rpms with drop and the truck coasts like it's in neutral. i swapped the tranny fuse (fuse #4) to see if that would do anything and it didn't. would it be the 3rd/4th clutch packs? or more of a torque converter? from what i have read online . the truck doesn't throw any check lights. not sure about codes as i don't have a code reader. also i cannot use the column shifter. as when i try to manually shift any of the gears it just revs and acts like neutral.

Hi my mother's truck has a issue with the transmission. One day it just stopped doing anything in gear and you can move the selector but when in gear it don't move forward or backward and the fluid is full and don't smell burnt. I figured it would of started slipping before just going out completely. Also what transmission is compatible with her truck. It's a Silverado 4x4 crew cab I believe it's the 5.3. The truck code is k10753. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Ok, so I want to replace my bcm because it's been messing with my electricals. The door chimes have been coming on randomly and i have dash lights and headlights on after key is off. I am pretty sure it's the bcm. Would it be ok if I were to swap a used one? I know it has to be flashed. What kind of things would I need to look for in a used one? Does the colored block on the part matter?

I got this suburban when I got it 3+4 was gone but didn't have the money to get it fixed and it was the only thing I had to get to work and so forth I knew It would end up going out but I have no help when it comes to about anything but I no how to work little of everything but transmissions I ant never really want to go it to them but I ended up baying a 4l60e out of a 2.2 S10 I was told all I had to do is change the pump and bell housing and torque converter well when I got to looking input shaft was shorter to the clutchs and bands was bad in the old one so i changed it all to the 2.2 clutchs to the other input shaft and put it all back together and i drained all fluid out of torque converter and cooler i got about 8 qt and it's dripping out at the pump or torque converter and no movement and pump ant pumping and the input shaft was hard to Turn i couldn't turn by hand but torque converter would turn by hand but the way my luck goes its probably done for if any one no a cheap way to get it back on the road please let me no cuzz at the moment its all i have I lost everything to a house fire and cant even get back on my feet where i cant get no where i ant a no it all i listen when some one try to teach me or help

Hi everyone, I have a problem with my 4l60e tranny in my 96 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L Vortec. My trans won't shift to 4th gear. When I put shifter into overdrive position and start acceleration trans normaly shifts through 1-2-3 gears. After that RPM goes to 3000 - 3100 but car won't accelerate no more and I get 62 mph and 3000 - 3100 rpm. In shown in this video. https://www.youtube.com/embed/t0zkwD9MMd4 In good case when all work fineI have 80 mph at 2500 rpm. https://youtu.be/hAd4f2r_9sQ After diagnostic I replaced TPS sensor and brake switch, but problem won't go away. What could be the problem ?

I am currently helping my father with his transmission rebuild for the 4l60e on a 2002 avalanche, he installed a transgo 4l60e sk shift improvement kit along with adding a corvette servo. he installed a cam on the 5.3 and the engine runs flawlessly and for the transmission he added a 3000 stall converter. the transmission will shift into reverse fine and will shift into second with using the manual shift, however the transmission will not shift into drive. the valve body has been checked over and over again and everything seems to be in place. Has anyone else had this issue or know what may cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

2000 S!0 pickup transmission slips in 3rd gear only. On cold start I can put into 3rd gear and it works fine. When it is warmed up I put into drive and will shift fine but from 2nd to 3rd it slips like it is in neutral.

Hi, I have a 1997 c1500 ext cab with the small block 350 and a 4L60e. I’m replacing my torque converter but I don’t know what the original stall on the converter is. Some people tell me it’s around 1400 and other people tell me it’s 1650. Does anyone know the stock stall number? And the bolt diameter too please.

I just put a new valve body in my 2006 Silverado with new accumulator pistons and solenoid’s and now that I have it all put together I went to drive it and it seems like it is stuck in a high gear like second or third and it has reverse has anyone had this issue before, is there some thing to reset like a transmission module?

I recently rebuilt the 4l60e on my 2000 S10 4.3L 2WD. It was slipping out of 4th while in D so I drove it for a week in 3. Eventually, 3rd gear was slipping, especially when warmed up, so i decided to rebuild. I got a vacuum tested reman valve body from Shift Rite Transmission shop with the Sonnax TCC Isolator Sleeve installed. It included all new solenoids. I also got a reman pump (old pump was scored up inside) from same shop with upgraded Sonnax boost valve. I installed pinless accumulators and new Transgo seperator plate with new gaskets and new checkballs. I upgraded to Sonnax smart shell and installed Sonnax Heavy Duty 3-4 backing plate with appropriate steels and frictions. All new steels and all new HE frictions - All clearances (including input shaft endplay) within spec checked 3+ times. New Borg Warner Dual Input Sprag. New reverse input drum. New 2-4 band. New 3rd accumulator checkball capsule tested for leaks. Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve installed over it. Standard Toledo rebuild kit for seals and gaskets, etc.. Also, new VSS and new Neutral Safety Switch. All new bushings. 400 grit emery cloth sanded journals on everything. Cleaned MAF sensor with cleaner. I diagnosed a leaking input drum housing at the shaft and got a new one with new blue rubber pistons. Old 3-4 clutch pack was in decent shape from before but still replaced new. Air-tested new input drum cold and it did not leak where the shaft and housing meet. The plate stiffener was loose during disassembly so after rebuild delayed thud into Reverse was fixed. When I bought the truck about 500 miles before the 3-4 went out the CLUSTR fuse was blown causing limp mode. After replacing the fuse truck drove fine until 3-4 problem. This leads me to believe that there is maybe some electrical issue, but no code was thrown until the slipping got terrible. It was solenoid A electrical (P0748), which I replaced and code disappeared. It came on again a few drives later and then disappeared the drive after that no changes on my part. During test drive after rebuild it was SO damn nice and smooth at first I couldn't believe it. THEN after it warmed up all of the 3-4 slipping returned and I had to drive it home in 2nd. I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it until warm to rule that out. No luck there. Slightly firmer shifts, but did not help slipping. I'm thinking now that possible causes could be: New solenoids - one may be bad, The input drum doesn't leak when cold, but does when hot, The 3rd accumulator check ball is bad when hot (I wasn't too sure of my vacuum test being accurate, which said it didn't leak, so I tested with 50/50 solvent and ATF and it did not leak while cold), or there is a bad wire somewhere considering the original P0748 code that came on and off 2 times. ANY insight or ideas would are very appreciated. I've spent countless hours on this and is my 1st rebuild.

4L60-E transmission whining only when vehicle is in motion. Mostly starts past 30mph. Transmission is off the Suburban now. Whining still present when input shaft is turned.

My recently purchased '05 Silverado 1500 has no problem shifting except between 2nd and 3rd. On upshifts, it shifts out of second, then there is a small flare, then it tries to engage 3rd, then it flares again, then it engages 3rd. It takes about a second and it's very consistent. On downshifts, it acts pretty similarly but it essentially acts like it's in neutral for .5 seconds. If I'm in 3rd or 4th and I depress the accelerator, revs out to 4k or 5k and then roughly engages 2nd. Otherwise it's perfect. No slipping, normal shifts, normal idle behavior, reverse works well, no noises or smells. The transmission fluid level and color is fine. I did some googling and narrowed it down to the computer, valve body, or solenoid which is basically not narrowed at all. Has anyone else had and fixed this problem?

So i have a little auto 1994 chevy s10 thats having issues. It has park, neutral, and reverse. But not any forward gears. When shes in reverse, you can fly. But when you try using overdrive, drive, 1 and 2, it either barely moves around 1500rpm or it doesn't move at all. It hasnt been burning oil or fluids and they dont have any off smells, it doesnt squeal, bang or make weird noises, theres no service lights popping up and its stumping me. Truck has around 188k km on it and was never "bagged" as far as i know. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

HELP! I am helping a friend sell some auto parts that he was given as payment. It is a Chevy 4L60E Transmission 24207965. The only other markings I can make out are GMPT, 41, & M30 if those help at all. What I need to know is what Year & Model truck does this fit & what is the way that I am able to determine that...is there something else I need to look at on it that will reference to that info? Please Advise, Thank You.