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Found 10 results

  1. Hey everyone! Just went out yesterday and picked me up a 138k original miles rust free 1994 stepside! It could use some new paint from sun fade (southern truck) but other then that it's and incredibly example inside and out. Now, the main reason I'm starting this thread is because when I opened the door I noticed it wasn't your normal interior, instead it was called an Outrider by UCI? I personally have never heard of this edition? And would love some additional details and info if anyone has some! I tried some research myself but with little prevail? Is it a much rarer find then I already thought? I'll upload some pics of the truck.
  2. Just for the archives, in case anyone runs into this. Here is how I solved the problem of the turn signal/back-up light fuse blowing. 1994 K1500, 4.3 engine, 5 speed... First symptom, turn signals would not work. Got advice from several places online, some said change turn signal selector. That would have been a really bad and relatively expensive idea. Turn signal back-up light fuse blown. Replaced, then found that it blew before I could get out of the drive way. Note: I have to go into reverse to get the truck out of the driveway. (clue)... I checked the schematic in the Haynes manual and found that the turn signals and back-up lights are on the same fuse. I found that by disconnecting the back-up light switch on the side of the 5 speed transmission, I could get the fuse to hold, and turn signals worked fine. Note: the switch in the K1500 (4wd) is on the side of the transmission, driver's side, and it's easy to get to. It is not on top, as some diagrams seem to indicate. It's a 2 wire switch, one of the wires is bright green... I think the other is pink, but it may actually be a different color. The switch screws in with a 7/8" wrench. A deep well 7/8" socket would be best. I left the truck like this until the Virginia state inspection was about due, and then decided I would work on the problem. The odd thing was that the green wire running from the back-up light switch to the rear of the truck was not grounded out. (you do have to unplug the tail lights to test that wire, or else the wire will show ground through the bulb elements)... With the key on the run position, there was constant voltage at the other of the two wires (pink, I believe) at the back-up light switch. So this wasn't grounded out obviously... and the green wire that feeds 12 volts to the back up lights when the tranny is in reverse was, as mentioned not grounded. But when I hooked it up to the back-up light switch, and put the transmission in reverse... the fuse would blow! Weird... but I realized that it could only be one thing: A bad switch. The back-up light switch had to be grounding out that line when it was engaged. Checking this with an ohm meter proved that indeed that was the case. Most of the time, a bad back-up light switch will either stay stuck, and lights stay on all the time... or else it won't work at all, and lights stay off. But this switch had the unique problem (to me, anyway) of grounding out the 12 volt feed when you put the truck in reverse. A new switch (less than 20 dollars) fixed this problem. Dan
  3. Definitely stuck!! CODE 32 ob1 gm code the truck is idling really rough (sometimes sounds like it has bigger cams but it doesn’t), it stalls out with a quick snap open of acceleration, fuel mileage has down, loss power. I have a new 350 TBI CRATE engine coming I’m just trying to make sure I won’t have the code 32 issue with the new engine. had a code for an O2 sensor code so I replaced it and it hasn’t been an issue since ive replaced the EGR VALVE and the Solenoid, still was having the issue. So I replaced the MAP, TPS, and IAC valve, figured that would help. Still was having issues. I then replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and ran a fuel injection service. That helped out a little bit but was still having the code 32 issue. I then replaced the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold, Evap purge solenoid and vapor canister. That seemed to help out with my fuel economy. I’ve checked for any signs of a vacuum leak using carb cleaner to try and find the leak. I sprayed all the vacuum lines, intake manifold and throttle body and couldn’t find any source of leak. I’ve pushed on the diaphragm of the egr with the truck idling and it definitely changed idle states so I know the passages are clear. I checked the egr solenoid for correct power and measured 12v. WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE?
  4. 4L60-E transmission whining only when vehicle is in motion. Mostly starts past 30mph. Transmission is off the Suburban now. Whining still present when input shaft is turned.
  5. Hello everyone, I have had a low voltage reading for awhile now(4000+ miles), but today My truck would not start. I tried a jumpstart, which brought the voltage up to 14v from 12v, but still nothing, no solenoid click at all. When i left work, it started fine. I made a couple of stops on the way home, at the first i noticed the starter running slower than normal. At the second stop, is where it died. I towed it home, and of course once home, it started right up. I Managed to recreate this problem. I did some light offroading to get the motor really hot and noticed that while cold, i have a solid 14v, but that gradually drops as the the truck warms up to slightly under 12v. The alternator and battery have been recently tested and passed, the battery is new. Also, it is very hot here in Tucson (110 degrees today). I have two other posts on here about my alternator and a vapor lock issue, dont know if they are also related to this problem. Thank you. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/201919-bad-alternator-94-yukon/ http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/202082-can-a-tbi-vapor-lock/
  6. I'll start this off i have a 1991 chevy silverado k1500 what is the biggest size tire i can fit on it with a 3 in body lift im about to put on it with 15 inch rim?
  7. Newbie to this forum. Looking at buying a 1994 Chevy C/K 1500 V8 with 167K miles. Beyond the obvious of checking the compression, frame, and transmission rebuild date, what are the other things to pay attention to that are likely to break so I know what I'm getting into? I'm looking to use this as a truck to learn on, and think I have a good price negotiated with the seller. Any feedback would be great. If there are any sellers of similar models, please hit me up. Thank you.
  8. I have 1994 GMC 1500 V6 4.3L truck runs great full power, at random times while driving at high speed or low speed the truck engine light turns on and immediate loss of power, I lose about 20 miles per hour in speed this lasts maybe 20 minutes sometimes or as little as 2 minutes than the truck runs great after that this happens at times when it is cold or hot outside. I have replaced every sensor that the codes showed. Is this a fuel problem or spark problem? thanks for your help.
  9. My 1994 Suburban won't start, put new battery new plugs, and still get nothing, not even the starter is clicking. just dead. ??
  10. I have a 1994 GMC Yukon 350 TBI 4WD that has a significant lope to the point of stalling, especially when in gear. When in park it will lope between 800 to 1000 rpms and when in gear sitting still will lope between 200 and 700 rpms and every so often, stall out. You can feel an intermittant stumble when actually driving although tach doesn't show it then. The stall will also occur sometimes when coming to a stop. The motor has plenty of power. Changed almost all sensors/components - see below for list of replaced items. I can temporarily fix the issue if I unplug the Coolant Temp Sensor the truck will stumble really hard several times and if it doesn't stall, it will smooth out completely 800 RPM for about 1 minute then starts to stumble again. Putting the vehicle back into park, plugging the CTS back in then putting the vehicle back into gear for about a minute then unplugging the CTS again will once again will repeat the temporary fix most of the time. Plugging the CTS back in once the lope has started has no effect. I have checked the voltage going to the CTS and it remains a steady 5V. I have tried 3 CTS's with the same results. Also about one in every 20 trips the vehicle will show no signs of any lope or stumble or very little. Could this be a PROM issue? Replacements already performed: ECM(computer) - had to use old PROM as new ECM doesn't come with it. Coolant Temp Sensor (x3) EGR and solenoid IAC (x2) Vacuum lines everywhere MAP sensor Fuel Pump Fuel Filter Distributor (whole thing) Plugs/Wires Coil Injectors Fuel Pressure Regulator Intake gaskets Removed and cleaned all grounds Alternator TBI Gasket Thermostat 195 Suggestions from any GM Genius'?
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