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Definitely stuck!! CODE 32 ob1 gm code the truck is idling really rough (sometimes sounds like it has bigger cams but it doesn’t), it stalls out with a quick snap open of acceleration, fuel mileage has down, loss power. I have a new 350 TBI CRATE engine coming I’m just trying to make sure I won’t have the code 32 issue with the new engine. had a code for an O2 sensor code so I replaced it and it hasn’t been an issue since ive replaced the EGR VALVE and the Solenoid, still was having the issue. So I replaced the MAP, TPS, and IAC valve, figured that would help. Still was having issues. I then replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter and ran a fuel injection service. That helped out a little bit but was still having the code 32 issue. I then replaced the coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold, Evap purge solenoid and vapor canister. That seemed to help out with my fuel economy. I’ve checked for any signs of a vacuum leak using carb cleaner to try and find the leak. I sprayed all the vacuum lines, intake manifold and throttle body and couldn’t find any source of leak. I’ve pushed on the diaphragm of the egr with the truck idling and it definitely changed idle states so I know the passages are clear. I checked the egr solenoid for correct power and measured 12v. WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE?

Hey everyone! Just went out yesterday and picked me up a 138k original miles rust free 1994 stepside! It could use some new paint from sun fade (southern truck) but other then that it's and incredibly example inside and out. Now, the main reason I'm starting this thread is because when I opened the door I noticed it wasn't your normal interior, instead it was called an Outrider by UCI? I personally have never heard of this edition? And would love some additional details and info if anyone has some! I tried some research myself but with little prevail? Is it a much rarer find then I already thought? I'll upload some pics of the truck.

Just for the archives, in case anyone runs into this. Here is how I solved the problem of the turn signal/back-up light fuse blowing. 1994 K1500, 4.3 engine, 5 speed... First symptom, turn signals would not work. Got advice from several places online, some said change turn signal selector. That would have been a really bad and relatively expensive idea. Turn signal back-up light fuse blown. Replaced, then found that it blew before I could get out of the drive way. Note: I have to go into reverse to get the truck out of the driveway. (clue)... I checked the schematic in the Haynes manual and found that the turn signals and back-up lights are on the same fuse. I found that by disconnecting the back-up light switch on the side of the 5 speed transmission, I could get the fuse to hold, and turn signals worked fine. Note: the switch in the K1500 (4wd) is on the side of the transmission, driver's side, and it's easy to get to. It is not on top, as some diagrams seem to indicate. It's a 2 wire switch, one of the wires is bright green... I think the other is pink, but it may actually be a different color. The switch screws in with a 7/8" wrench. A deep well 7/8" socket would be best. I left the truck like this until the Virginia state inspection was about due, and then decided I would work on the problem. The odd thing was that the green wire running from the back-up light switch to the rear of the truck was not grounded out. (you do have to unplug the tail lights to test that wire, or else the wire will show ground through the bulb elements)... With the key on the run position, there was constant voltage at the other of the two wires (pink, I believe) at the back-up light switch. So this wasn't grounded out obviously... and the green wire that feeds 12 volts to the back up lights when the tranny is in reverse was, as mentioned not grounded. But when I hooked it up to the back-up light switch, and put the transmission in reverse... the fuse would blow! Weird... but I realized that it could only be one thing: A bad switch. The back-up light switch had to be grounding out that line when it was engaged. Checking this with an ohm meter proved that indeed that was the case. Most of the time, a bad back-up light switch will either stay stuck, and lights stay on all the time... or else it won't work at all, and lights stay off. But this switch had the unique problem (to me, anyway) of grounding out the 12 volt feed when you put the truck in reverse. A new switch (less than 20 dollars) fixed this problem. Dan

4L60-E transmission whining only when vehicle is in motion. Mostly starts past 30mph. Transmission is off the Suburban now. Whining still present when input shaft is turned.