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Found 33 results

  1. Hello there! My 1993 Silverado K1500 is throwing code 59. From what I can find this indicates that the transmission fluid sensor circuit voltage is high, which would mean that the sensor is telling the computer that the fluid is too hot? If I clear the codes and start the truck cold, it immediately throws this code. So I know **for sure** that the transmission isn’t actually hot. My question is, how should I go about diagnosing this? Is the sensor external and is there a way I can test to be sure the wiring is right? Or is it internal and should just be replaced? Appreciate any pointers you can give me.
  2. Is it possible to fit a rear flip kit from a 94 Sierra c1500 onto a 94 k2500 Sierra? If not can someone tell me if ways I can lower my k2500!
  3. Can I use a nv4500 bell house on a sm465 5 speed is fuped. If so cant I just use my existing master line and slave system 1989 k1500 155.5 wheelbase np241c getrag290 5 speed
  4. Hello everyone. I have a fun issue. My 99 suburban decided to die on me recently. Was running alright. Went into my parents for maybe 30mins. Came back out it fired up and then died maybe a half second to second after. Never had the issue before. Today decided to attempt to diagnose. It has spark. Distributer looks good. Changed the fuel pump with assembly and fuel filter. Also changed the cam sensor and crankshaft sensor. Lastly changed the ignition switch due to sometimes it acting up and messing with my gauges and transmission. Checked the idle control valve motor. Seems to be working. Cleaned the gunk off of it and the throttle body. Checked all the relays. All working. All fuses are good. Attempting the security passcode reset now due to running out of options. The security light isnt showing. But not sure if this suburban has one. Spray starter fluid into intake and it will run for a second longer then dies out again. Not sure what's causing it. thinking maybe fuel pressure regulator. Any ideas?
  5. First time poster here. I'm not sure how to ask my question without going into a fair amount of detail. I have a 1994 k1500, i bought with a messed up trans and a '350 from a suburban' - note the quotation marks. I work at a dealership and our transmission guy is really good with these transmissions so I took it out and had him rebuilt it for me and he updated all the internals to the 2006+ mechanically but electronically its still a 1994. He tells me it's good for my eventual horsepower goals (600). Everything great and fine but this truck is a dog. Misfires alot has all sorts of issues with the engine, won't idle properly, Yada Yada. I decide to pull the engine. And before we take it apart we look at the casting numbers.... It's a 305... And the heads are for a 350... I was pretty unsure of what to do, however out of the blue I have an opportunity to buy whay should be a good 1998 350 vortec with ecm and full wiring harness for a great deal. There's enough there I have several options but my favorite, if it will work is use the ecm, the new engine and harness and plug it into my 1994 transmission. The question is, can I make it work. Will it run fine? What tuning might I need to do, or transmission modifications to make this work. I'm not opposed to swapping valve bodies and/or tcc solenoids to make this work, and from what I've read that's the biggest difference besides just obd1 to obd2
  6. Hey guys I'm having problem with my 1995 k1500. The radio/blower/windshield wipers/windows will not work at all....The hazard switch on my truck is broken off and missing....I was driving down the road and my hazards all of a sudden turned on and wouldn't shut off I tried pushing what was left of the button down to make them stop and nothing worked. once I got home I noticed my window would not roll up and my passenger wouldn't roll down. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to stop I ended up pulling the steering column apart and replaced the hazard button along with the turn signal switch. I plugged battery back in and still had no power to those items mentioned..hazards shut on and off though. I replaced my ignition switch and negative battery cable and still have no power to the mentioned items...any help would go a long way!!!
  7. '91 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 4X4 Z71 V8 Auto Regular Cab Long Bed Reman 4-Bolt Main 350 V8 New Radiator Many New Parts Runs Good 4X4 Works Fine Asking $2,500.00 - Located in Eastern Ohio - 43952
  8. Hey everyone, New to the forum but I've browsed before when trying to figure out some of the issues I've been having with my 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 5.7L 4WD. I bought the truck from my old neighbor because I needed something to tow my ski boat to the lake and back. I knew the truck was a little rough around the edges and needed some work but I was okay with that since I know how to work on cars and I only need to tow the boat about a mile round trip to/from the lake. The truck started and ran great after I bought it but it started having some odd issues. There's no communication between the scan tool and DLC. There's good power and ground to the DLC, the cigarette lighter fuse is not blown. Not sure if this is related to the rest of the problems but I think it's possible. The Check Engine Light does not illuminate when I cycle the key or turn on the vehicle. Intermittent battery drain. Since the truck was still starting and running just fine, I figured I would leave it be and I'd get around to fixing it eventually. It developed a fuel leak from the lines near the tank about 7-8 months ago and I didn't want to deal with it during the winter so I let the truck sit until the weather got nice and I was able to replace the whole fuel system from the tank to the motor (not the injection system). Before I replace the fuel system, I drove it around the local industrial park to try to run some fuel out of it and the following issues started. Truck stumbled, the Airbag light, Service 4WD light came on, but kept running. Now, the Airbag light, Service 4WD light come on every time I drive it (4WD seems to still work). Power/Heated seats inop Intermittent battery drain turned into a consistent battery drain. I put in a battery disconnect that I use every time I let the truck sit for more than a day. Power Locks inop I started to get pretty confused and started trying to find some kind of common ground or module that would explain all of these issues so I went ahead and did the fuel system work and it's back up and running again. I drove it again after the fuel system repair and even more things either stopped working or started acting weird. Radio and temperature/compass in the mirror work great at idle, but both turn off above 10-15MPH. Turn signal on/off speed varies from fast to slow and interior lights dim/brighten opposite of the turn signal turning on/off Wipers are slow/dont work at all Cruise control inop Dash/cluster lights inop Power windows slow up/down So tell me what you guys think. I'm thinking there has to be a bad ground somewhere. I'm going to go through the truck and replace/clean grounds from front to back and see what happens, although I know that G202 is behind the dash and may be a huge PITA to get to, is that accurate? Has anyone experienced something like this? Is there a module like the BCM that could be bad and bringing down the communication lines, causing the no DLC communication? Thanks in advance! Adam
  9. So I have a couple issues with my truck. 1997 k1500 silverado with roughly 280k on it. I bought it a couple years ago and the guy put a newish engine in it with 60k on it but it's always had hesitation to start. It would crank a few times before starting, sometimes I have to key off, wait a sec and try again to get it to go. I had the battery (800cca) tested, wires tested, alternator tested and replaced the starter, nothing. Had our mechanic at work look, said the timing was off by -2, and it starts a little better but it still does the thing. No OBD codes except for my exhaust leak. Anyone have any ideas? Second issue, my gauges are reading a bit off. My oil pressure reads high but will go down low if I let off the gas to coast, gas gauge is accurate to about 1/4 of a tank higher than it is, the whole cluster is dim but grows brighter repeatedly, voltage reads 15V or higher, and temp reads way overheating and scares the crap out of me even though I put a scanner on it and read the raw data from the new temp sensor I put in and it shows normal. I can find guides to repair 03 or newer clusters, but nothing about repairing older ones. My guess is all the steppers are shot at nearly 300k miles. I don't know why the dash is so dim though, I thought it might be voltage related. Anyone know about repairing those older clusters? Can I use the same steppers as the 03+ guides use?
  10. I have 96 with the 5.7 and it's been running lean for a while bank 1 and 2 and can not figure out what is causing it. I have changed maf sensor tps sensor new spark plugs there was a code for malfunction o2 sensor i replaced that and I also put some injector cleaner in the tank also changed fuel filter. The truk idles fine but when I put it in reverse and drive and im crawling/creeping along like backing out of the drive way its stuttering and running rough like its about to die/shut off and usually ill get on the gas a little and it will start running fine. It runs fine once I get going 10-20mph on up from there its just when I fire it up and get to rolling and foot is barely on the pedal. Also not even a week ago truck gauges would go to 0 and would get stuck in 3rd ended up being a ground on back of the engine. I do hear a small leak under the driver side could be exhaust manifold or where the flange is right under it where the pipe connects but I don't think it would cause it to run lean. Tomorrow i'm going to check fuel pressure, all I can think of is bad fuel pump, regulator, maybe intake manifold gasket even though I don't see any signs or even a bad ecm. Any help would be appreciated. Also should there be a little bit of oil in the air intake tube? its also in that vent that just pops in the side that comes from the top of the valve cover. its oily around the bottom too where it goes into the cover.
  11. Hello, I have a 2000 K3500, or what I believe they called a "classic" at the time. This is essentially the same as the 1998 or 1999. GM switched platforms in 2000 but offered the 3500 that year in the old body style (OBS). Mine has the 7.4L and automatic transmission. It currently has 130k miles and I bought it with 75k from the original owner in 2011. I'm wondering if there are some known issues or parts that tend to break that I could do some preventive maintenance on? Any specific areas I should look at beyond regularly scheduled Maintence? Anybody have a good maintenance schedule checklist to reference? Thanks!!
  12. Ok, so here's the deal my truck keeps throwing the P0300 code (multiple cylinder misfire) and we can't figure out what is wrong with it. We've changed the knock sensor, the crank position sensor, changed the whole distributor to a MSD billet distributor (street fire model), changed plugs and wires, changed the coil. None of them have changed the fact that it keeps throwing this code. I also have the upgraded acdelco Spyder injection system. The motor is a freshly built 383 stroker built by a reputable engine builder when we first started the truck it ran like shit so we sent the computer to blackbear and had it tuned to the motors specs. When we got the tuned computer it in the truck it ran a hell of a lot better but it still keeps throwing this code. If anyone can point me in the direction of what could possibly be wrong or point me towards a good tech for these truck it would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Hello All! Ok I just bought my 17 year old a 1994 k 1500 4x4 Ext cab and the motor is a 383 stroker. I'm gonna list everything that has been done and all info came directly from the long time owner. My question is that after any of your gear heads read what all the motor has I'm looking for suggestions on what upgrades I can do to the motor. Hey is what all has been done to it..... its a 2 bolt 383 scat crank .40 over keith black claimer pistons Total seal gapless rings The rotating assembly is all balanced reworked stock rods The heads came off a crate motor z28 vaive springs Jet performance chip. MSD coil and wires. NGK spark plugs. shorty flowtech headers. B&M electronic shifter. 4.10 gears The guy who built the motor told me it was "built tight" So anyway, Any suggestions or info you all might have would be GREATLY appreciate.
  14. 97 K1500 5.7 Vortec Ruff Idle after replacing Spider.... So this all started when the intake manifold started leaking like most do after a while. So i replaced the gasket, as well as the Spider, plugs and wires, all four O2 sensor's, the distributor, rotor and cap. oh and all the seals on the Plenum. I have checked the vac lines and the spider seal. So here is whats going on. The truck starts but has a ruff idle like a miss firing. When i drive it, I get to about 40MPH and it starts really jumping and chugging. It misses really bad. When i get back down to about 30MPH it runs ok but ruff like a miss. I pull the Mass Flow connector off and no change. ???.... can the distributor be off one tooth and cause this. Or am i looking for something else...?? Thank You all for helping an old guy here... Dave Davis
  15. Hi everyone this is my first post and this is my first Silverado. So I was pulling an empty car trailer on the highway when I saw some smoke coming from my truck, followed by by it revving to the moon without grabbing. I got a alert saying trans temp has hot. I pulled over and noticed it was dripping trans fluid. After looking underneath I noticed what looks like a breather tube on top of the trans. This seems to be where the fluid is coming out from but I'm not sure yet. The trans seems to grab the gears under 1k for a little bit then it just slips entirely like being in neutral. I'm in formiliar with this truck and before I have someone take a look I'd like to hear what you guys think it could be. Side note right before I got the truck (2000k miles ago) the previous owner said "new trans" just installed. Could I have just blown a trans line? Vaccum line? Any reply is appreciated
  16. So I drove my 96 Chevy k1500 with the 350 vortec over a train track like any normal day and all of a sudden my truck is shaking real bad. I managed to get it to a friends garage nearby but I couldn't accelerate. It would only coast. It was running really lean and would fall flat on its face when i gave it gas. It had low fuel pressure so changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. It drives a lot better now but it still starts to fall flat when I try to accelerate too much. I still can't figure out why it won't accelerate. So far I've replaced my... Fuel pump Fuel filter Idle air control valve Elbow tube on the pvc Breather tube grommet Spark plugs and wires I put a new mass air flow sensor on it and that only made it drive worse. What else could it be?
  17. I'll start this off i have a 1991 chevy silverado k1500 what is the biggest size tire i can fit on it with a 3 in body lift im about to put on it with 15 inch rim?
  18. barry G

    Diode DRL 1996

    From the album: random

    led headlamps allowed a much less robust diode. This one is 10A, no heatsink.
  19. Looking for a housing or axle assy for a 95-98 K1500 .( 6 lug , 10 bolt) would like 3.42 gears but I can rebuild what I get. I would like solid, no deep pits rear, and the mounts on top all in tact, no rot on the bottom of axle where U bolts go. This would a leaf spring rear, and not for a Yukon, or tahoe. What do you have? Thanks!
  20. Hi everyone I hope someone from this site will be more helpful than the last site I tried using. Ok here is what I got 1992 k1500 blazer with tbi 350. My question is if this motor can be changed from flat tappet to roller or am I better off to buy a new crate long block L31 vortec 350? (if I can use roller cam I'll put new 906 vortec heads on it) I'd like to run a lt4 cam or something of that range.is like to build it up and get 300rwhp. It has true duals already. I've been thinking of changing the 2 barrel tbi over to the 4 barrel efi unit with self tuning if need be. And I will not do an ls swap I owned two before and don't like them at all that's why I got rid of them for a 350 again and they drank more gas than my blazer does 10mpg and 13mpg is what I got on the ls trucks my blazer get 19mpg any help from you guy would be great And no emissions where I live
  21. Good afternoon all, I'll try to make this short and sweet so here's the deal: 1) Gauge Coolant Temp wont respond. 2) I have done the necessary test with the coolant SENDING unit. (Ground out to see if it pegs hot) 3) Used Voltmeter to check for signal to sensor which it has. 4) Checked Fuses. All are good. 5) Rest of gauges work. And here's where I'm stuck. Apparently the 1995's don't use stepper motors? (I haven't taken the cluster apart yet) But if they do, I cant find the right ones. Seem to be for 1996 or 1997 and up models. This cluster does not have a conventional pigtail that plugs into it but rather the cluster "sinks" into the adapter. The circuit board is flexible. Does anyone have any info on this type of cluster? If its a simple stepper motor or resistor I can fix it. (I think, lol) However, rather than replace with a refurbished or used one where the mileage will not be correct I'd rather upgrade to a digital cluster if possible or even swap in a later model chevy cluster. Anyone know if this is possible? One thing ive found out with the 95's is that it isn't very compatible with other models. Please ask any questions that you may have. I look forward to your responses!
  22. I feel pretty certain that I know what the problem is but I just want some feedback from others before I carry this truck to get worked on they can't figure out the problem and I end up paying someone to chase a problem that isn't there. With that said here is what happened: I pulled the truck into my gravel driveway and stopped the truck with the wheels turn full lock to the right. Turned the truck off and it sat there for approximately 20-30 minutes and then I went to leave. Up until this point, I have not noticed any issues with my driveline other than U-joints (which have been replaced) since I had the transmission rebuilt at 200,000 miles (Truck currently has 228,000 miles on it). When I put the truck in drive it begin to roll forward but something got it in a bind and it stopped so I gave it a little gas and it jerked/clunked forward (not real sure how to describe the noise). I stopped and put the transmission into reverse and it rolled backwards about 6 inches and got in a bind and stopped rolling again so I gave it a little gas and it made the same clunking/gear binding noise. I parked it right there and got in my other truck since I was in a hurry and left. Came back to mess with the truck a few days later and put it in drive and it rolled forward and clunked/jumped twice and I hadn't had the issue again until today. Drove over to a relatives house and pulled up into the driveway and stopped to back into a carport on the side of the driveway. Put the truck in reverse and it rolled about 6 inches and got in a bind and I had to basically rock the truck back in forth in drive and reverse to get it rolling again with out making the binding/grinding noises. Got it rolling forward after about 2-3 minutes of rocking it back and forth and problem went away so I drove it straight home and got my other truck and came back. I think the problem is in the transfer case. Either loose chain or worn sprockets/gears but I just want to hear what you guys think before I carry it somewhere to have them work on it since I haven't figured out how to recreate the problem on demand and since it is intermittent. Thanks in advance for help/suggestions and if you think it may be something completely different causing the issue please let me know. Background on the truck: rebuilt transmission stronger than stock at 200k, new U-joints at 210k, new rear end bearings and differential inspection at 220k (no signs of wearing in differential).
  23. For sale is one complete set (2 front and 2 rear) of Rancho RS9000X Series shocks. They fit 1988 thru 1998 model Chevrolet/GMC K1500 1/2 ton 4WD pickups with no lift (stock height). Included are two Rancho RS99152 front shocks and two Rancho RS99190 rear shocks. These gas shocks are fully adjustable by a 9-position knob on the shock body. They are new, unused, and have never been installed on any vehicle. Price is $240.00 plus shipping. Shipping will be approximately $30-$50 dependant on your location. If interested, PM me with your zip code and I'll give you a shipping estimate. Payment to be made through PayPal only.
  24. I have owned this truck for about 15 years. It started out as a daily driver, then work changed to a travel position and it went to the airport once a month. About 5 years ago I bought another truck so this one doesn't get driven much anymore. It is very dependable, just look at the list of what has been done to it while I owned it. I used to make my living as an ASE certified Master Automotive Technician, and then I went on to do development work for GM at the Desert Proving Ground. I have all the receipts for the work that has been done. I can help with shipping if you live in a different part of the country. This is a solid RUST FREE truck. 350 engine out of a 1994 K1500 with about 140K miles on it. The transmission was already rebuilt when I bought the truck. Rebuilt transfer case Rebuilt rear end - new gears, new bearings, new limited slip diff, new axels, new brakes, new drums and hardware - all that was kept was the housing and brake backing plates Tires were put on last year, Firestone Destination A/T with only about 1000 miles on them New spare tire and custom bed mount All the computer sensors on the engine have been replaced New alternator, not rebuilt New Starter, not rebuilt New water pump, not rebuilt All the engine rotating items have been replaced except the power steering pump Right side wheel bearing and ball joints New Optima red top battery Custom made front bumper with a receiver hitch and .120" wall DOM tubing The down side...the paint is the typical peeling paint for that year. Sand it off an put on a new coat, the body is nice and straight. Only things that don't work are the AC and cruise control. $3800.00
  25. Hello all, Long time reader, first time poster here (haha). I decided to post this because I couldn't find any answers to my questions prior to going through the process. It was very frustrating, my back hurts, and I spent a lot of money in gas, so I am posting this to hopefully make things easier for you than it was for me. Unless you work on vehicles full time with access to a shop, go ahead and plan on taking your truck to a spring shop. Try this if you want to save a few bucks though. My ride: 1994 Z71 Chevrolet (half ton/heavy half/4x4) without a torsion lift, though my truck seems to sit relatively high. I currently have 265R16 tires on mine. What I did: Changed my leaf springs to a set with two additional leafs from a 3/4 ton (yes they fit half tons), purchased everything separately, changed my shocks, tried out some larger tires so I know what to buy next. The newer springs with more leafs/leaves changed the ride height to a perfect level. Why I did it: My truck was sagging, not a lot, but enough to where I noticed it. It was also sagging ever so slightly to one side, not much but enough to where I thought I was losing my mind. The ride was also rough even when I wasn't hauling anything. I noticed it when my buddy's truck had a much easier ride. I also noticed that my front suspension seemed to react "harder" than other trucks to bumps in the road. Later I found that one of my main leafs was broken at the eyelet, the other side was broken at the U-bolts and I couldn't see it. I had probably been driving like that for maybe one year. New parts and what I spent: Used leaf springs from a junk yard (I opted for six-leaf springs from a 3/4 ton) : $200 for both (The junk yard will probably saw them off and hand them to you.) New shackles x2 : $55 New U-bolts x 4: $35 (from a 2000's model, they fit as long as you measure them) New things that the U-bolts attach to: $45 (again, from a newer model, the shop said they've worked in the past) New bushings x2 : $40 (get the stock ones, trust me, all the others are a headache) New shocks x4, replaced a few months earlier : $250ish (don't waste your money if you haul, get the good ones) Had a shop handle the rest, yes it is much easier : $330 taxes and all Used newer model rims with bald 305's from Craigslist : $75 *This is probably the cheapest route to follow give or take pricing on a few items. *Ebay was used for Ubolts and shackles, use Ebay for the bushings too though. Needed tools IF you remove the old bushings on your own: Circular bit (1 5/8" I think, measure yours first) : $20 Power Drill and Sawsall: I already had one. 24" breaker bar : $15 on sale at Harbor Freight *Don't bother with electric or battery impacts, they won't work. *I'd just let the shop press them out when they put the old ones in and save a few bucks. The best path if you aren't a full time mechanic: Note first: I found that my ride stiffness didn't change much from the old springs (broken four leafs to the new six leafs). It is actually a bit better. My buddy also confirmed this thought when he did his, though he said his was a bit more stiff. How many leafs is your choice though. 1. Find a spring shop and get an idea of what they will charge to swap the new ones on (I was quoted $270). I explained that I already had everything and intended to do it myself but gave up, it wasn't the first time they had heard that. You could check what they would charge for shocks too, but those aren't hard to change. I'd have probably paid up to $65 for them to change the shocks to save an afternoon, up to you though. 2. Purchase/order everything needed first so it is on its way. Discuss what shocks to use with someone who is an expert, not just the guy behind the counter. The pricier ones are usually better though. If in doubt about something fitting, buy it from a store so it can be returned. 3. Purchase used six-leaf springs, make sure they aren't broken or cracked. Saw away the crap if needed so the old bushings can be easily pressed out by the spring shop. You could use the circular bit to drill down around the old bushing. Work it back and forth with the breaker bar until free. Turn it one direction with pressure on the other side until it twists out (it takes a while). OR just saw each side of the bolt off and let the shop press them out. 4. Don't waste time trying to have the bushings pressed in or out, it will likely be included in the price if the shop is putting them on. 5. Take the truck in, explain that you want to make sure it won't be sitting ass-up like a jackass, and them them do it. This will save you a back ache, lots of gas money, and many curse words. I kid you not, messing with old rusty bolts and bushings is a major pain in the butt, let them do it! 6. Change your shocks afterward to avoid wearing them out prior to the spring swap (if you didn't want the shop to). Aftermath: My truck looks like it got a little bit of lift compared to the way it used to sit. The six-leafs fit perfectly without the truck sitting too high in the back. The stiffness didn't change all that much for me and the ride is a bit better. I recommend changing your shocks if your truck is old as sin like mine. I found that I could play my old shocks like an accordion. Hey, I inherited it so leave me alone! Keep in mind that changing your springs doesn't change the ability of the axles, so don't risk breaking them by overloading the truck. I found that I could fit 305's on my truck stock, but since I haul and do some minor off-roading, I won't be going over 285's next time. I also read another post where a guy had six leafs installed in order to haul his camper. He changed his tires to 10-ply tires, which I will probably do eventually. I took this path to avoid the markups on parts at the shop, and I honestly thought I could do it myself. Mistake. Skip the machine shops, get what you need, and have a spring shop do it. It will save you a few headaches, lots of sweat, time, back pains, and gas money. Pictures are added below of the end result, still with 265R16 tires. The only concern I have moving forward is the dependability of my newer springs, but brand new ones were crazy expensive so I risked using used ones. Honestly, I'll probably miss replies but plan to check back periodically when I can remember to answer questions. I wish I'd have known all of this going into the project, hopefully it helps you! Other considerations for longevity: If you have an old truck like mine, consider getting a tune up and new distributor cap. You might also change the O2 sensors, I found mine went bad without giving me an engine light. It killed my power and drove me crazy. There is also an inlet at the top of the engine toward the back that will be brittle and break soon, leaking coolant on the ground. Have a shop handle it when it happens, trust me. Also, you might check the circuit board for the windshield wipers if they ever go intermittent or quit.
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