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Found 23 results

  1. Hello, I have a 2000 K3500, or what I believe they called a "classic" at the time. This is essentially the same as the 1998 or 1999. GM switched platforms in 2000 but offered the 3500 that year in the old body style (OBS). Mine has the 7.4L and automatic transmission. It currently has 130k miles and I bought it with 75k from the original owner in 2011. I'm wondering if there are some known issues or parts that tend to break that I could do some preventive maintenance on? Any specific areas I should look at beyond regularly scheduled Maintence? Anybody have a good maintenance schedule checklist to reference? Thanks!!
  2. Ok, so here's the deal my truck keeps throwing the P0300 code (multiple cylinder misfire) and we can't figure out what is wrong with it. We've changed the knock sensor, the crank position sensor, changed the whole distributor to a MSD billet distributor (street fire model), changed plugs and wires, changed the coil. None of them have changed the fact that it keeps throwing this code. I also have the upgraded acdelco Spyder injection system. The motor is a freshly built 383 stroker built by a reputable engine builder when we first started the truck it ran like shit so we sent the computer to blackbear and had it tuned to the motors specs. When we got the tuned computer it in the truck it ran a hell of a lot better but it still keeps throwing this code. If anyone can point me in the direction of what could possibly be wrong or point me towards a good tech for these truck it would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Hello All! Ok I just bought my 17 year old a 1994 k 1500 4x4 Ext cab and the motor is a 383 stroker. I'm gonna list everything that has been done and all info came directly from the long time owner. My question is that after any of your gear heads read what all the motor has I'm looking for suggestions on what upgrades I can do to the motor. Hey is what all has been done to it..... its a 2 bolt 383 scat crank .40 over keith black claimer pistons Total seal gapless rings The rotating assembly is all balanced reworked stock rods The heads came off a crate motor z28 vaive springs Jet performance chip. MSD coil and wires. NGK spark plugs. shorty flowtech headers. B&M electronic shifter. 4.10 gears The guy who built the motor told me it was "built tight" So anyway, Any suggestions or info you all might have would be GREATLY appreciate.
  4. 97 K1500 5.7 Vortec Ruff Idle after replacing Spider.... So this all started when the intake manifold started leaking like most do after a while. So i replaced the gasket, as well as the Spider, plugs and wires, all four O2 sensor's, the distributor, rotor and cap. oh and all the seals on the Plenum. I have checked the vac lines and the spider seal. So here is whats going on. The truck starts but has a ruff idle like a miss firing. When i drive it, I get to about 40MPH and it starts really jumping and chugging. It misses really bad. When i get back down to about 30MPH it runs ok but ruff like a miss. I pull the Mass Flow connector off and no change. ???.... can the distributor be off one tooth and cause this. Or am i looking for something else...?? Thank You all for helping an old guy here... Dave Davis
  5. Hi everyone this is my first post and this is my first Silverado. So I was pulling an empty car trailer on the highway when I saw some smoke coming from my truck, followed by by it revving to the moon without grabbing. I got a alert saying trans temp has hot. I pulled over and noticed it was dripping trans fluid. After looking underneath I noticed what looks like a breather tube on top of the trans. This seems to be where the fluid is coming out from but I'm not sure yet. The trans seems to grab the gears under 1k for a little bit then it just slips entirely like being in neutral. I'm in formiliar with this truck and before I have someone take a look I'd like to hear what you guys think it could be. Side note right before I got the truck (2000k miles ago) the previous owner said "new trans" just installed. Could I have just blown a trans line? Vaccum line? Any reply is appreciated
  6. So I drove my 96 Chevy k1500 with the 350 vortec over a train track like any normal day and all of a sudden my truck is shaking real bad. I managed to get it to a friends garage nearby but I couldn't accelerate. It would only coast. It was running really lean and would fall flat on its face when i gave it gas. It had low fuel pressure so changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. It drives a lot better now but it still starts to fall flat when I try to accelerate too much. I still can't figure out why it won't accelerate. So far I've replaced my... Fuel pump Fuel filter Idle air control valve Elbow tube on the pvc Breather tube grommet Spark plugs and wires I put a new mass air flow sensor on it and that only made it drive worse. What else could it be?
  7. I'll start this off i have a 1991 chevy silverado k1500 what is the biggest size tire i can fit on it with a 3 in body lift im about to put on it with 15 inch rim?
  8. Diode DRL 1996

    From the album random

    led headlamps allowed a much less robust diode. This one is 10A, no heatsink.
  9. Looking for a housing or axle assy for a 95-98 K1500 .( 6 lug , 10 bolt) would like 3.42 gears but I can rebuild what I get. I would like solid, no deep pits rear, and the mounts on top all in tact, no rot on the bottom of axle where U bolts go. This would a leaf spring rear, and not for a Yukon, or tahoe. What do you have? Thanks!
  10. Hi everyone I hope someone from this site will be more helpful than the last site I tried using. Ok here is what I got 1992 k1500 blazer with tbi 350. My question is if this motor can be changed from flat tappet to roller or am I better off to buy a new crate long block L31 vortec 350? (if I can use roller cam I'll put new 906 vortec heads on it) I'd like to run a lt4 cam or something of that range.is like to build it up and get 300rwhp. It has true duals already. I've been thinking of changing the 2 barrel tbi over to the 4 barrel efi unit with self tuning if need be. And I will not do an ls swap I owned two before and don't like them at all that's why I got rid of them for a 350 again and they drank more gas than my blazer does 10mpg and 13mpg is what I got on the ls trucks my blazer get 19mpg any help from you guy would be great And no emissions where I live
  11. Good afternoon all, I'll try to make this short and sweet so here's the deal: 1) Gauge Coolant Temp wont respond. 2) I have done the necessary test with the coolant SENDING unit. (Ground out to see if it pegs hot) 3) Used Voltmeter to check for signal to sensor which it has. 4) Checked Fuses. All are good. 5) Rest of gauges work. And here's where I'm stuck. Apparently the 1995's don't use stepper motors? (I haven't taken the cluster apart yet) But if they do, I cant find the right ones. Seem to be for 1996 or 1997 and up models. This cluster does not have a conventional pigtail that plugs into it but rather the cluster "sinks" into the adapter. The circuit board is flexible. Does anyone have any info on this type of cluster? If its a simple stepper motor or resistor I can fix it. (I think, lol) However, rather than replace with a refurbished or used one where the mileage will not be correct I'd rather upgrade to a digital cluster if possible or even swap in a later model chevy cluster. Anyone know if this is possible? One thing ive found out with the 95's is that it isn't very compatible with other models. Please ask any questions that you may have. I look forward to your responses!
  12. I feel pretty certain that I know what the problem is but I just want some feedback from others before I carry this truck to get worked on they can't figure out the problem and I end up paying someone to chase a problem that isn't there. With that said here is what happened: I pulled the truck into my gravel driveway and stopped the truck with the wheels turn full lock to the right. Turned the truck off and it sat there for approximately 20-30 minutes and then I went to leave. Up until this point, I have not noticed any issues with my driveline other than U-joints (which have been replaced) since I had the transmission rebuilt at 200,000 miles (Truck currently has 228,000 miles on it). When I put the truck in drive it begin to roll forward but something got it in a bind and it stopped so I gave it a little gas and it jerked/clunked forward (not real sure how to describe the noise). I stopped and put the transmission into reverse and it rolled backwards about 6 inches and got in a bind and stopped rolling again so I gave it a little gas and it made the same clunking/gear binding noise. I parked it right there and got in my other truck since I was in a hurry and left. Came back to mess with the truck a few days later and put it in drive and it rolled forward and clunked/jumped twice and I hadn't had the issue again until today. Drove over to a relatives house and pulled up into the driveway and stopped to back into a carport on the side of the driveway. Put the truck in reverse and it rolled about 6 inches and got in a bind and I had to basically rock the truck back in forth in drive and reverse to get it rolling again with out making the binding/grinding noises. Got it rolling forward after about 2-3 minutes of rocking it back and forth and problem went away so I drove it straight home and got my other truck and came back. I think the problem is in the transfer case. Either loose chain or worn sprockets/gears but I just want to hear what you guys think before I carry it somewhere to have them work on it since I haven't figured out how to recreate the problem on demand and since it is intermittent. Thanks in advance for help/suggestions and if you think it may be something completely different causing the issue please let me know. Background on the truck: rebuilt transmission stronger than stock at 200k, new U-joints at 210k, new rear end bearings and differential inspection at 220k (no signs of wearing in differential).
  13. For sale is one complete set (2 front and 2 rear) of Rancho RS9000X Series shocks. They fit 1988 thru 1998 model Chevrolet/GMC K1500 1/2 ton 4WD pickups with no lift (stock height). Included are two Rancho RS99152 front shocks and two Rancho RS99190 rear shocks. These gas shocks are fully adjustable by a 9-position knob on the shock body. They are new, unused, and have never been installed on any vehicle. Price is $240.00 plus shipping. Shipping will be approximately $30-$50 dependant on your location. If interested, PM me with your zip code and I'll give you a shipping estimate. Payment to be made through PayPal only.
  14. I have owned this truck for about 15 years. It started out as a daily driver, then work changed to a travel position and it went to the airport once a month. About 5 years ago I bought another truck so this one doesn't get driven much anymore. It is very dependable, just look at the list of what has been done to it while I owned it. I used to make my living as an ASE certified Master Automotive Technician, and then I went on to do development work for GM at the Desert Proving Ground. I have all the receipts for the work that has been done. I can help with shipping if you live in a different part of the country. This is a solid RUST FREE truck. 350 engine out of a 1994 K1500 with about 140K miles on it. The transmission was already rebuilt when I bought the truck. Rebuilt transfer case Rebuilt rear end - new gears, new bearings, new limited slip diff, new axels, new brakes, new drums and hardware - all that was kept was the housing and brake backing plates Tires were put on last year, Firestone Destination A/T with only about 1000 miles on them New spare tire and custom bed mount All the computer sensors on the engine have been replaced New alternator, not rebuilt New Starter, not rebuilt New water pump, not rebuilt All the engine rotating items have been replaced except the power steering pump Right side wheel bearing and ball joints New Optima red top battery Custom made front bumper with a receiver hitch and .120" wall DOM tubing The down side...the paint is the typical peeling paint for that year. Sand it off an put on a new coat, the body is nice and straight. Only things that don't work are the AC and cruise control. $3800.00
  15. Hello all, Long time reader, first time poster here (haha). I decided to post this because I couldn't find any answers to my questions prior to going through the process. It was very frustrating, my back hurts, and I spent a lot of money in gas, so I am posting this to hopefully make things easier for you than it was for me. Unless you work on vehicles full time with access to a shop, go ahead and plan on taking your truck to a spring shop. Try this if you want to save a few bucks though. My ride: 1994 Z71 Chevrolet (half ton/heavy half/4x4) without a torsion lift, though my truck seems to sit relatively high. I currently have 265R16 tires on mine. What I did: Changed my leaf springs to a set with two additional leafs from a 3/4 ton (yes they fit half tons), purchased everything separately, changed my shocks, tried out some larger tires so I know what to buy next. The newer springs with more leafs/leaves changed the ride height to a perfect level. Why I did it: My truck was sagging, not a lot, but enough to where I noticed it. It was also sagging ever so slightly to one side, not much but enough to where I thought I was losing my mind. The ride was also rough even when I wasn't hauling anything. I noticed it when my buddy's truck had a much easier ride. I also noticed that my front suspension seemed to react "harder" than other trucks to bumps in the road. Later I found that one of my main leafs was broken at the eyelet, the other side was broken at the U-bolts and I couldn't see it. I had probably been driving like that for maybe one year. New parts and what I spent: Used leaf springs from a junk yard (I opted for six-leaf springs from a 3/4 ton) : $200 for both (The junk yard will probably saw them off and hand them to you.) New shackles x2 : $55 New U-bolts x 4: $35 (from a 2000's model, they fit as long as you measure them) New things that the U-bolts attach to: $45 (again, from a newer model, the shop said they've worked in the past) New bushings x2 : $40 (get the stock ones, trust me, all the others are a headache) New shocks x4, replaced a few months earlier : $250ish (don't waste your money if you haul, get the good ones) Had a shop handle the rest, yes it is much easier : $330 taxes and all Used newer model rims with bald 305's from Craigslist : $75 *This is probably the cheapest route to follow give or take pricing on a few items. *Ebay was used for Ubolts and shackles, use Ebay for the bushings too though. Needed tools IF you remove the old bushings on your own: Circular bit (1 5/8" I think, measure yours first) : $20 Power Drill and Sawsall: I already had one. 24" breaker bar : $15 on sale at Harbor Freight *Don't bother with electric or battery impacts, they won't work. *I'd just let the shop press them out when they put the old ones in and save a few bucks. The best path if you aren't a full time mechanic: Note first: I found that my ride stiffness didn't change much from the old springs (broken four leafs to the new six leafs). It is actually a bit better. My buddy also confirmed this thought when he did his, though he said his was a bit more stiff. How many leafs is your choice though. 1. Find a spring shop and get an idea of what they will charge to swap the new ones on (I was quoted $270). I explained that I already had everything and intended to do it myself but gave up, it wasn't the first time they had heard that. You could check what they would charge for shocks too, but those aren't hard to change. I'd have probably paid up to $65 for them to change the shocks to save an afternoon, up to you though. 2. Purchase/order everything needed first so it is on its way. Discuss what shocks to use with someone who is an expert, not just the guy behind the counter. The pricier ones are usually better though. If in doubt about something fitting, buy it from a store so it can be returned. 3. Purchase used six-leaf springs, make sure they aren't broken or cracked. Saw away the crap if needed so the old bushings can be easily pressed out by the spring shop. You could use the circular bit to drill down around the old bushing. Work it back and forth with the breaker bar until free. Turn it one direction with pressure on the other side until it twists out (it takes a while). OR just saw each side of the bolt off and let the shop press them out. 4. Don't waste time trying to have the bushings pressed in or out, it will likely be included in the price if the shop is putting them on. 5. Take the truck in, explain that you want to make sure it won't be sitting ass-up like a jackass, and them them do it. This will save you a back ache, lots of gas money, and many curse words. I kid you not, messing with old rusty bolts and bushings is a major pain in the butt, let them do it! 6. Change your shocks afterward to avoid wearing them out prior to the spring swap (if you didn't want the shop to). Aftermath: My truck looks like it got a little bit of lift compared to the way it used to sit. The six-leafs fit perfectly without the truck sitting too high in the back. The stiffness didn't change all that much for me and the ride is a bit better. I recommend changing your shocks if your truck is old as sin like mine. I found that I could play my old shocks like an accordion. Hey, I inherited it so leave me alone! Keep in mind that changing your springs doesn't change the ability of the axles, so don't risk breaking them by overloading the truck. I found that I could fit 305's on my truck stock, but since I haul and do some minor off-roading, I won't be going over 285's next time. I also read another post where a guy had six leafs installed in order to haul his camper. He changed his tires to 10-ply tires, which I will probably do eventually. I took this path to avoid the markups on parts at the shop, and I honestly thought I could do it myself. Mistake. Skip the machine shops, get what you need, and have a spring shop do it. It will save you a few headaches, lots of sweat, time, back pains, and gas money. Pictures are added below of the end result, still with 265R16 tires. The only concern I have moving forward is the dependability of my newer springs, but brand new ones were crazy expensive so I risked using used ones. Honestly, I'll probably miss replies but plan to check back periodically when I can remember to answer questions. I wish I'd have known all of this going into the project, hopefully it helps you! Other considerations for longevity: If you have an old truck like mine, consider getting a tune up and new distributor cap. You might also change the O2 sensors, I found mine went bad without giving me an engine light. It killed my power and drove me crazy. There is also an inlet at the top of the engine toward the back that will be brittle and break soon, leaking coolant on the ground. Have a shop handle it when it happens, trust me. Also, you might check the circuit board for the windshield wipers if they ever go intermittent or quit.
  16. '99 K1500 5.7 W/AC I've got dual batteries with a Hellroaring separator/combiner and I recently started towing a travel trailer that has dual batteries, so I need to upgrade my original alternator to (at least) 140 amp. I've read the connectors are different (original - oval, 140A - rectangular), and I might need a different serpentine belt. I don't know if that only applies to parts from certain manufacturers, or if it's the nature of the upgrade. I'd have to order one locally to get a look at it, but if I order one I want it to be the right one. Has anyone here done this upgrade, and can you share your experience?
  17. IMG 0078

    1996 GMC Sierra SLE 5.7L Sante Fe Edition
  18. I have a 1988 Chevy K1500 5.7L 350ci TBI truck and it has been acting up here lately it all started about a month ago. I would go to accelerate while going down the road and it would hesitate and bog down. When it happens I can feel a pulse in the gas pedal and hear an audible sound in the engine compartment(it sounds as though the throttle body is slamming back into place as though its not recieving enough gas). The truck DOES NOT act up during idle or when running at low speeds, ONLY WHEN ACCELERATING. And the problem does not happen everytime I drive, it happens here and there. I have checked the spark plugs and they are a brown color on the tip which tells me that there isn't a rich/lean problem with the plugs. I have also changed the fuel filter, which was FILTHY, after I had gotten the new filter installed I dumped the contents of the fuel filter onto a rag and the contents were a silver/greyish substance. I have not heard of a filter having this color debris in it, so I am wondering what the debris is and what is causing my truck to hesitate? The hesitation only happens when I press the gas pedal down a good ways to accelerate, like going up a hill or after a stop light when I am trying to reach the speed limit without creeping up to speed. After I changed the fuel filter the truck ran fine when I took it out to test that fix, and I thought that is had fixed it because I would stomp on the gas to put it in high hear and see if it would hesitate and it did not. The next day I went out and the problem had returned, so it doesn't happen all the time, but it happens more than not. I only run Shell 93 gas in the truck and take very good care of it. I have gotten to a point where I can't figure out what is wrong with out. I have also taken the air filter housing off and started the truck to see if the injectors are giving an equal amount of gas and they are. I have tried to put everything wrong and that I have done in this post that I can think of, if y'all have any more questions feel free to ask. I would appreciate any help at all with this problem! Thank y'all!
  19. My 1994 Suburban won't start, put new battery new plugs, and still get nothing, not even the starter is clicking. just dead. ??
  20. Hey everyone, looking for some suggestions on replacing engine in my 1998 K1500. Not looking for serious power increase, mainly just better driveability. I love the truck and dont want to get rid of it. It's all stock, 305, manual transmission, regular cab, manual lever transfer case, air conditioning, and SWB. The engine has over 250k miles and currently suffering from an fuel/ignition problem that has me considering replacing instead of fixing. Any good ideas out there? I would like to drop in a 5.3, but considering the rerouting of the AC system, ECM, and probably mounting issues leaves me thinking the same generation small block would be best. Not worried about emmisions either, no testing in our state.
  21. IMG 0086

  22. IMG 0082

    L31 in 1996 GMC Sierra K1500

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