Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'GMC'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • GM-Trucks.com Original News & Product Reviews
    • General Motors Product and Industry News
    • The GM-Trucks.com Garage - Vehicle Testing & Product Reviews
    • The Newsroom Archive
    • The Garage Archive
  • Future Vehicle Discussion
    • Silverado / Sierra & Future Vehicle Speculation & Spy Shots
    • 2022 GMC HUMMER EV Electric Pickup
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2019 - 2020 - 2021 T1XX Platform
    • 2019 / 2020 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2020+ Silverado HD & Sierra HD
    • 2021 Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL & Escalade
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 2014-2019 K2XX Platform
    • 2014 - 2019 Silverado & Sierra
    • 2015-2020 Suburban/Tahoe & Yukon/Yukon Denali
    • 2015-2019 Silverado HD & Sierra HD
  • Fullsize Truck & SUV - 1999-2006 GMT800 & 2007-2013 GMT900 Platforms
    • 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500
    • 2000-2014 Silverado & Sierra HD
  • Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
    • 2015-2020 Colorado & Canyon
    • 2005-2012 Chevy Colorado & GMC Canyon
  • Midsize Crossover - 2017-2020 C1XX Platform
    • 2017-2020 Traverse, Acadia, Enclave & XT5
    • 2019 - 2020 Blazer
  • Classic Chevrolet / GMC Pickup Trucks
    • 1988-1999 Chevrolet & GMC C/K GMT400 Platform
    • 1973-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Square Body / Rounded Line Pickups
    • 1967-1972 Chevrolet & GMC Glamour / Action Line Pickups
    • 1960-1966 Chevrolet C/K/Apache & GMC 1000-3000 Pickups
    • 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/Jimmy
    • 1969-1994 Chevrolet K5 Blazer & GMC Fullsize Jimmy
  • Marketplace
    • For Sale/Wanted
    • Member & Vendor Rating Forum
    • Member Product Reviews
  • GM-Trucks.com is supported by
    • Adam's Premium Car Care
    • Agri-Cover
    • Arnott Air Suspension
    • Black Bear Performance
    • GMPartsDirect.com
    • UPR Products
    • Synthetic Advantage
  • The Lounge
    • Off-Topic
    • Automotive Industry & Market Discussion
    • New Member Introductions
    • Meetups, Events, & Gatherings
    • GM-Trucks.com Comment Box
  • Hobbies & Lifestyle
  • Technical & Advanced
  • Chevrolet, GMC, Buick & Cadillac Crossovers
  • Commercial Vehicles
  • Black Truck Club's Topics
  • Texas Owner's Group's Topics
  • California Owner's Group's Topics
  • New England Owner's Group's Topics
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Topics
  • South Carolina Silverado Owners's Topics
  • Canadian Owners Club's Topics
  • SCUBA divers of GM-Trucks's Scuba Talk
  • Red Truck Club's Topics
  • Idaho Sierra & Silverado Owners Club's Idaho
  • Colorado Trucks's Exhaust Setups
  • Colorado Trucks's Pics of trucks
  • SEO Paint's seo color ordered
  • NorthSky Blue Club's NorthSky Blue Metallic
  • NorthSky Blue Club's Pics
  • diesel 3.0's Topics

Calendars

  • Events
  • Birthdays
  • Texas Owner's Group's Events
  • California Owner's Group's Events
  • Midwest Owner's Group's Events
  • Red Truck Club's Events

Categories

  • Articles
  • News
  • Reviews
    • Project Sierra
  • Resources

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


MSN


Website URL


Yahoo


Skype


Facebook


Twitter


Name


Location


Interests


Drives

Found 1,050 results

  1. It's never too early to start talking about the process of shopping around for a dealer, pricing, the ordering process, deposits, and production delivery times. Although we're still months away from orders being accepted, this thread is meant to be a place where everyone can check in and share their experiences as they go through the process. I'm also going to document as many important dates in this initial post as I can. I'll attempt to keep everyone up to date on start of production, any ordering limitations, and when the ordering system will go live. NEW UPDATES AS OF: April 25th, 2018 T1XX- 2019 Chevrolet Silverado and 2019 GMC Sierra - Important Ordering / Production Dates Pre-Production: NOW - Captured Test Fleet Production Confirmed as of March 31st. Fleet Order Entry Avaliable On Crew Cab: 4/26/18 Double Cab: 6/21/18 Regular Cab: TBD Retail Initial Consensus Month Crew Cab: May 1st Double Cab: August 1st Regular Cab: TBD Initial Dealer Order Submission Process (DOSP) Crew Cab: 5/17/18 Double Cab: 8/16/18 Regular Cab: TBD Production Start Up For Dealer Delivery Crew Cab: Quarter 3 - July/August/September Double Cab: Quarter 4 - October November December Regular Cab: TBD 2019 Chevrolet Silverado Start Up Schedule 2019 GMC Sierra Start Up Schedule This post will be updated whenever new information becomes available. Please contact me if you can help clarify any of these dates.
  2. So I recently purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra and I have the jump seat configuration Id like to switch to the jump seat to a center console and I was wondering has anyone done that on a 2019 or a 2020 GM truck already? I feel this is a do-able modification to my vehicle but Im looking to see what I would need to do. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Hello all, Recently I purchased a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 Elevation. I’ve been debating on putting a lift or leveling kit on it since I bought it. I’m looking for bulkier but also clean look. Nothing crazy. Just beefy and aggressive. I don’t plan on doing much off reading. Any advice on which kit I should buy? What brand? I also am hoping to keep my wheels as they are super sick, but would like some beefier tires any advice on those as well? Thank you!
  4. Hello! To whomever may have any advice. I recently bought a 2005 gmc single cab with a 6.0 4l80e that wouldn’t start unless you put a little fuel down the intake and jump the starter(which I didn’t do bc I’d rather fix the problem logically). Anyways so a problem that I found is that he had actually broken the ignition interlock cable on the steering column and you were actually able to turn the key by hand but turning it to the start position wouldn’t do anything other than a like if you would say meh out loud that’s literally what the engine or I believe the electrical would sound like when you turned the key into that position. So I replaced the wire from a donor steering column which was a PAIN!!! anyways I have the original column in with the new wire but it’s still not trying to start at all. I also noticed that the throttle body doesn’t open when you press the Gas and you can’t push it open. It also makes a small humming noise like it wants to try to open and slightly vibrates. Also so I jumped the 87 pin on the starter relay to the positive and the engine turns over but won’t fire and start. I’m assuming that it’s a fuel problem(yes I put fuel in the tank today 7gals). So my next theory is going to maybe test the starter? I’m not really educated on this stuff but I do have the tools for the most part. Any advice would be appreciated. ALSO it has a newer ignition Solenoid and it has the lock and car light on the dash so I’m not sure if the new keys have to be programmed and that has anything to do with it? Maybe? But I’m not sure and thank you again! I’ll post a link to a YouTube video tomorrow to show exactly what’s going on and what I’m working with for a visual!
  5. So I bought this 2015 Sierra and it needs ball joints replaced. Only problem is I can’t get a straight answer about If I need new upper control arms or stock ones put back in. It currently has Rough Country arms but when I asked RC they told me that they should not be installed. ALSO I’m not 100% sure in the size of the lift. RC says it’s a 5” but it doesn’t seem like it. Just looking for some input. Thanks
  6. For sale New body style extended travel upper control arm slightly used maybe 3lk miles retails $900 $575 part#78620DJ
  7. Disclaimer: I need a lot of help and don't know what I'm doing besides the research I've done thus far. Which is mixed to say the least. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado with the stock 20" wheels. I have stock Z71 suspension. Stock Tires. Live in CO and blew a tire on the way up to a mountain. Riding full size spare right now, but between that blown tire and a bolt clean through another that is still holding air, I think it's about (well past) time I get new tires altogether. With that comes the choice to go ahead and get my other changes done I'd like as well, including a level kit, smaller wheels, and larger tires (Pathfinder AT 285/70 R17). With that in mind, I'm trying to do it cheaply (I know, f*ck me, first mistake). I found some used MB Wheels TKO wheels on Craigslist off of a taco for hella cheap and picked em up without doing a ton of research (second mistake). They are 17x8.5 6x5.5, which sounds good. Where it starts sounding problematic is the lugs and bore. These wheels are M12x1.5 with a thicc bore size at something around 106mm and obv the Silverado is M14x1.5 with a bore size of 78.1mm. Offset is 27 stock and this wheel is -6. On this offset topic, I don't even know if this will be a problem or not. (possibly third mistake?) My question is, will these wheels function safely on the Silverado if I purchase 60 degree acorn lugs at M14x1.5? What else would I need to do to make these work? Hub Ring? Offset? Am I being a complete moron? Should I just resell the wheels and scrap this? Links: Level Kit I intend to use - https://www.americantrucks.com/motofab-3-front-2-rear-leveling-kit-0718-silverado-1500.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_campaign=description&utm_medium=social&utm_content=ytvid103018MotoFab3front2rearlevelingkit&T5_Var3=silver#product_videos Wheels I purchased second hand - https://www.discounttire.com/buy-wheels/mb-wheels-tko/p/47299 Thanks everyone; forgive my ignorance.
  8. TL;DR: I drove 2,941 miles from South Florida to Southern California in my brand new Sierra 1500 AT4 Duramax and pulled my 4,400lbs pound boat. I experienced no drivetrain issues other than running out of gas which was my own fault. I kep the rpms mostly at 1500-2100, averaged 12.6 mpg, consumed 11-12 gallons of DEF and had no cooling issues under the load and in the 118F heat of the Californian desert for the prolonged time I was driving. The trailering app and trailer tire TPMS system paid for itself and was a great tool for safety! DEF gauge may not be accurate to read when towing, rather go by the mileage warnings that display on the dash. Adaptive cruise control disengaged briefly but was able to re engage after turning the truck off and back on again. I am very satisfied with the performance I experienced and overall truck and have had no issues thus far with the drivetrain (6,054 miles on the clock). Hey y'all, I wanted to put some info out there about the trip I just made this week from Boca Raton, FL to San Diego, CA in my brand new 1500 AT4 Diesel to include performance numbers, issues I encountered, good, bad, and otherwise. I was a little on edge seeing as I did a decent amount of research on the new duramax before I bought it in July and there are definitely some issues out there that are yet to be addressed, however I had to move for my new job so here goes. Google Maps put the trip at 2,611 miles (4,202km) from my parents driveway to my new place but my trip clock read 2,941 miles (4,733km) due to stopping in to see some family along the way. I had 3,110 miles (4,989km) on the clock before I left. Note that my backseat was full of boxes and my bed was mostly empty except a weatherproof toolbox because I don't have a tonneau cover yet and did not want my items exposed to the elements or sticky fingers for the five days I was on the road. I was also towing my boat which is a 20 foot center console on a tandem axle trailer with dual axle hydraulic surge brakes. The boat and trailer combo weighs 4,400lbs (1995 kg) as indicated by the weigh scale I stopped at in California and my WeighSafe drop hitch with tongue scale. I spent the overwhelming majority of my time at ~1500 rpm while on cruise control at 67-mph but would jump to ~2100 when gradually accelerating. I left on Sunday afternoon and drove 225 miles (362km) to Daytona Beach, FL mostly uneventful despite my DEF warning popping up saying I had a 1000 mile range. On Monday, I drove 514 miles (827km) uneventfully seeing some family and friends in the Panhandle of Florida. The only eventful part of this leg of the journey was the DEF message popping up in the morning saying I had a 300 mile range approximately 150 miles after the 1000 mile warning and a speed limited soon message shortly after the 300 mile message. I figured I would use more DEF while towing but I hadn't put much thought into exactly how much I would use while planning my trip. I will talk more about DEF later. Tuesday I drove 537 miles (864km) from Milton, FL to Houston, TX uneventfully. Somewhere around San Antonio, TX I got a message that adaptive cruise control has disengaged. I was able to switch to regular cruise control but still don't know why that happened. I was able to re engage adaptive cruise control later in the day after I turned off the truck at a fuel station. Any thoughts would be appreciated here if you have experienced something similar. Wednesday is where the fun started. About halfway between Houston and Fort Stockton (508 miles, 817km) I got a low trailer tire pressure message on my dash. My truck came with 4 trailer tpms sensors I had installed into 4 new tires on the trailer about a week before I left because I figured why not. the tires are filled to 50psi as per the sticker on the trailer and the message showed front right had 35 psi. I figured all was fine and it was an error message as I had already driven over 1000 miles with no issues but I decided to stop and check at the next exit as I noticed the pressure was steadily declining. I pulled off at a Love's and went to check and could hear the air coming out but couldn't see a nail or feel the air. Regardless (after re parking in the shade at 102F outside), I took the tire off and lo and behold found a 3 inch nail in the tread near the edge of the tire. Within 15 minutes I had it plugged, refilled, reinstalled, and ready to go. That right there ladies and gentlemen justified the $85 I paid to install the sensors. Had I not known of the diminishing air pressure I surely would've had a blowout at the most inconvenient location and had to put a spare on in the heat. So that sold me on the trailer tire TPMS system, cost to install already paid for itself by saving me from having to buy a replacement tire. On Thursday, the plan was to go from Fort Stockton, TX to Tucson, AZ (558 miles, 898km). I was about 30 miles away from my next planned fuel stop when my fuel level low light came on but I didn't think anything of it as I would be stopping about 20 miles before I ran out of fuel. When I pulled off at the only fuel station in the area (Akela, NM) which GasBuddy showed had diesel, I discovered much to my dismay that the station did not have a diesel pump. I knew I was probably screwed but didn't really have a choice but to shoot for Deming, NM which was 24 miles down the road. My fuel level read low so I reduced speed to improve economy and hoped for the best. Worst case scenario I run out of fuel much closer to an actual city which would reduce the time it took for a fuel delivery service to reach me. 5 miles out of Akela, a car flags me down and says something blew off my boat so I pulled over and saw that my bimini top had blown off. I figured my best course of action was to drop the boat on the side of the road and turn back and try to find it. because there was no way I'd make it to Deming after turning around with the boat. Anyways, I had to go back about 3 miles to get the bimini from the middle of the road before going back. I decided to leave the boat, get fuel, and come back for it. The boat has a tracker so I could ensure it didn't get stolen plus i had 2 tongue locks on it. I made it about 12 miles before I heard a sound from the engine that sounded like i hit debris on the road, a message popping up that said speed limited, pulled over and kept the engine idling while I inspected the truck for damage and could see none. I turned off the truck to restart it and try to get back on the highway but it wouldn't crank. I called roadside assistance from the myGMC app and a guy called me to confirm that I needed diesel and was out to me from Deming in about 20 minutes. Fueled up, started, but had a check engine light so I brought it to the Chevy dealer in Deming to get checked out and ensure there was nothing seriously wrong other than running out of fuel. It was just some computer errors from running out of fuel, had them cleared, and left for no charge. Filled my tank at the nearest fuel station, turned around got my boat, and continued on my way after a 3 hour delay and made it to Tucson just in time for happy hour! Friday, I finished my trip to San Diego about 407 miles (655km) uneventfully despite temperatures reaching 118F outside. I was monitoring engine temp which was regulating well between 190 and 205 and tranny temp which kept between 185 and 203 depending on the grade. No issues at all with cooling or performance. Honestly the torque was really impressive on the 6% grade that stretched about 35 miles up and down. By the time it was all said and done, i averaged 12.6mpg for the entire trip although I was getting about 14-16 after I had the bimini top stowed in the bed on the truck reducing the drag of the boat. I had to put in about 11-12 gallons of DEF throughout the trip to top off my tank at the end. I found that the DEF gauge was not displaying accurate levels because when it displayed red Low and no bars it took 4 gallons before overflowing despite the tank being about 5 gallons. The range of the DEF was not linear. It showed 300 mile range at 5 bars but dropped to red and low almost immediately after reaching that point. I learned to go by mile range not necessary gauge level and just fill up at the 300 mile range message. I am satisfied with the fuel economy i saw and was very satisfied with the performance and power available when needed thanks to the diesel. Overall very satisfied with the performance of this truck as I have had no issues with the drivetrain (knock on wood). Feel free to ask me specific questions and I will answer them as soon as I see them!
  9. Hello everyone, On my 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali I did a hood air induction vent swap for a chrome vent cover and while I was at it I added Led RGB lights inside the vent taking care not to restrict the air flow. Has anyone else done any chrome or Led RGB mods? If so lets see them please.
  10. So, let me preface this by saying, as of today 8/14/20, no one still makes hood mounted LED pod light mounts for the new body 2019+ Sierra. Suffice to say, I got tired of waiting. So, I bought a set of the APS mounts made for the 2019+ Silverado for $75 online. I figured if I hacked them up and it doesn't work, I'm only out $75. Shipped out right away and got them quick. First thing, these brackets are thick. That was reassuring knowing I'd have to modify them somehow. Second, the brackets are too long for the driver side. The cut right into the wiper arm when it comes full vertical. I took off 1/4" off both brackets but still had to continue grinding the rear-facing edge down until I had clearance on the driver side. I also had to grind down the outer edges that were making contact with the hood closer to the hood line. Luckily, these APS mounts are beefy and can handle the loss of material. Also, the wiper arm that I grinded into is only like $25 to replace, so ill buy that down the line. This took a LOT of trial and error mounting them on the hood, taking them off, grinding more off, refitting, removing, etc. This won't work unless you have a cutoff wheel, grinding wheel, etc. And your trial and error will likely cost you a wiper arm as well.
  11. It's October 2019 and rumors are swirling around a potential General Motors Electric Pickup, code named "Project O" We just covered this news here: https://www.gm-trucks.com/your-first-electric-pickup-may-be-a-hummer/ We've created this forum as a place to discuss these future electric vehicles and the news around their development in the leadup to 2021.
  12. I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4. A/c has been out for over 2 years had a bad compressor never got around to fixing it. Today I replaced the compressor, condenser, accumulator, orifice tube, and flushed all lines. Took it up to my buddy at the dealership and we charged it up. Put it under vacuum for a bit and no leaks. Drove home about 12 miles no problems blew ice cold. Left to go to the store about 2 hours later started it up the ac button was on but clutch wasn’t engaged and ac blowing warm. Turned the button off then back on clutch engaged and blew ice cold. About 10-15 seconds clutch disengages blows hot cycle the button again blows cold again. Every 10 seconds or so it blows hot and I have to cycle the ac button on the dash again get cold air. I know the compressor clutch should cycle on and off that’s normal but I don’t think it should be that frequent and you shouldn’t feel that significant of a temperature change right? And when it cycles off it doesn’t come back on unless you cycle the button. I’m thinking a issue with the low pressure switch on the accumulator but any advice?
  13. Ok Members, Here is the all inclusive way to swap a GMC K2xx 1500 front bumper to a 2500 Front Bumper. This is for the Sierra only, the Silverado is/may be different. First lets start with what IS needed the part numbers if applicable. HD Grille (PN Varies ) HD Bumper assembly (PN varies) HD "headlight fillers"( GM list's them as 'Top Cap Assembly) --------LH PN 22831429 Paintable --------RH PN 22831430 Paintable HD headlight filler brackets ( GM lists them as Fascia Bracket assembly) --------LH PN 23451021 --------RH PN 23451022 ****I will also mention the Front bumper to inner Frame support brackets. I got them with my 2500 bumper when I purchased it, so I used them, and they work and fit great. Im sure but cant say for certain if the 1500 bumper for frame supports can be made to work. Once all the swap parts are acquired, then you can begin modifying the parts on the current truck The 1500 Bumper mounts have to be used. I attempted to try and use the 2500 brackets and the mounting holes are in the wrong location, as well as it makes the bumper sit way too far forward away from the truck, As for the 1500 modifications, the 3 mounting holes will need slotted so the bumper brackets can sit lower to accommodate the additional height of the new bumper. Reinstall the brackets and drop them down until they hit the frame. ***** I spaced my brackets up a bit off of the frame. I felt the gap between the headlight fillers/grille, and the bumper was too much. with a little spacing you can get the gap nice and tight***** I also used 3 additional washers behind the brackets to space the bracket away from the frame. With out the additional spacing the bumper sat too close and didn't align in the wheel well Once the frame brackets are situated, you can move onto the fascia brackets. they are a simple swap, unbolt the 1500 and swap them for the 2500 brackets Now install the headlight fillers onto the fascia brackets that were just installed. The headlight filler assembly's will also use a bolt location from the 1500 grille that the 2500 does not use. Now its time for the bumper. Install the bumper onto the frame brackets. The 1500 brackets will only allow the Upper hole closest to the grille to be used for attachment. The Bumper will fit pretty tight onto the brackets. As I said earlier I was able to use the 2500 Inner bumper to frame brackets , they were the correct length, and shape to fit around the frame Mounts The last big modification is the fender well trim. The 1500 trim is much longer as shown by the blue tape line. The trim needs cut on the bottom of the tape to align with the headlight fillers When it’s all said and done the top pic is the OEM 1500 Denali and the Bottom is the 2500 Denali Swap (yes I know the fog lights aren’t in but I was excited to take a pic)
  14. Similar to the 18" post, I want to see a thread with a 100% stock setup and what size tires you put on for 20" stock wheels only. This thread is not for leveling kits or aftermarket wheels. Post up some pictures! Let us know what size your tires are and what kind. I'm really only interested in doing very minor trimming if needed. My last truck I just had to zip tie the liner a little further back. Thanks! My current stock AT4
  15. John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 9-11-2019 General Motors has announced that NHTSA is mandating a safety recall for the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Pickups (1500 / 2500 / 3500) 2015-2018 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Yukon vehicles 2015-2017 Cadillac Escalade NHTSA reports that the amount of vacuum created by the vacuum pump may decrease over time. The group says that as the vacuum level drops, the brake assist decreases, and that this increasing braking effort, extending the distance required to stop the vehicle, thereby increasing the risk of a crash. This new recall covers 3.4 million vehicles. The Problem: The brake pump uses engine oil to lubricate itself. If the pump becomes clogged with engine oil sludge the units ability to create vaccum is diminished over time. As a result, braking force and ability also drops. The issue is usually accompanied by a "Service Brake Assist" warning message in the dash. The Fix: GM will reprogram the computer that controls the secondary brake assist pump. The secondary pump will now activate at lower speeds and different situations quicker to compensate for any lost output from the main pump. Since the pumps are not failing, GM has decided not to replace them. GM's number for this recall is N192268490. In compliance with federal law, GM will notify owners, typically by snail mail. GM says that its dealers will reprogram the Electronic Brake Control Module. However, GM has not yet provided a notification schedule. Owners may contact Chevrolet customer service at 1-800-630-2438, Cadillac customer service at 1-800-458-8006 or GMC customer service at 1-800-462-8782. If you own one of these vehicles and wish to check to see if your vehicle is included (or not) you can do so at this link immediately. As with every safety recall, customers will not be charged by GM for the needed repairs or modifications. NHTSA's public information on this issue indicates that many accidents have been reported to NHTSA including some with injuries. This recall is the result of a NHTSA investigation that lasted nearly a year. In its investigation report, NHTSA noted the following details about the problem:
  16. Now that owners are taking delivery of the new 2019 Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra, I thought a quick reference guide to common routine maintenance items would be beneficial to us all. If you have information that you'd like suggest be added to this topic, just post below and I'll update this first post with any and all new/updated information. 2019 Chevy Silverado & 2019 GMC Sierra Routine Maintenance Quick Reference Guide -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Digital Owners Manuals 2019 Chevrolet Silverado: 2019_Chevy_Silverado_Owners_Manual.pdf 2019 GMC Sierra: 2019_GMC_Sierra_Owners_Manual.pdf Oil Changes 2.7L(L3B) Capacity: 6.0 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF66 / 55495105 Drain Plug Size: TBD 5.3L(L84) & 6.2L(L87) Capacity: 8.0 Quarts AC Delco Oil Filter: PF63E / 19330000 Drain Plug Size: 15MM or XX Torx Engine Air Filters With High Capacity Air Cleaner: A3244C / 84121219 Without High Capacity Air Cleaner: A3246C / 84121217 Interior Filters Passenger Compartment Air Filter: CF185 Wiper Blades Drivers & Passenger Sides: 55cm / 21.7 Inches - GM Part Number 23417074 Spark Plugs 2.7L L4: 12688094 / 41-106-IP 4.3L V6: 12622441 / 41-114 5.3L V8 & 6.2L V8: 12622441 / 41-114 Fuel Tank Sizes Standard / Short Box (Gas & 4WD Duramax): 24 Gallons Standard & Short Box (2WD Duramax): 22 Gallons Automatic Transmission Fluid 6-Speed: DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid 8-Speed: DEXRON-HP Automatic Transmission Fluid 10-Speed: DEXRON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid (GM Part Number 19352619/Canada 19352620) Transfer Case Fluid All Models: 1.6 Quarts DEXRON-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid Wheel Lug Nut Torque All Models: 140 lb-ft / 190 N-m
  17. Quick question, what’s everyone’s suggestions for a good set of towing mirrors for my 2019 GMC Sierra? It’s a SLT package and the only option I know of right now is only the clip on style. Thanks
  18. I am looking into replacing my bench seat with a full center console in my 2019 GMC Sierra SLE. Is this something that is possible? Any information to help me get started would be great.
  19. I am a proud owner of a GMC Yukon 2016 Denali. Since these cars are not officially available in Europe, I imported a Yukon. Basically, I am very satisfied with the vehicle. But unfortunately, I have a problem with the vehicle, and nobody could help me so far: The car vibrates quite heavily and uncomfortably. The vibrations started when I stopped at the side of the road to let my wife get out. The engine lamp flashed, and the vehicle had hardly any power left. I drove about 1/4 mile, stopped again, and switched off the car. Afterward, I waited for over one minute and then restarted the car. The engine light stayed off, and so I was able to drive on. Also, the power was as usual again. But from there on I had vibrations which I didn't have before. So I went to a service station to read out any errors and get some help. But there were no errors detected. Since the vibrations did not disappear on the next miles, I went to the dealer again. They reprogrammed the ECU unit with the latest software and balanced the tires. Nothing has changed. So I went to another dealer, hoping that it could help me in a better way. They told me that my tires were worn out and that they could cause the vibrations. We changed all four tires. The handling was a bit better afterward, but the vibrations remained. Because in my country there are just about 10 GMC Yukon and a few Escalades driving around, no dealer has a clue and can solve my problem. Therefore I did a lot of research on the internet and on the paid platform of GM (ACDelco TDS) - unfortunately without success so far. I am also familiar with the service bulletins for the 8-speed automatic transmission. But I can exclude these vibrations so far. I have some of these vibrations in my car. However, I have now imported the right oil from Texas by ship, and I will do the oil change within the next days. But the other vibrations are noticeable at any speed, even at only 1 or 2 mph or over 100 mph. Especially when I ride uphill or downhill, it vibrates a lot. As if I had no suspension in the back and the vehicle would bounce around. The vibrations are mainly felt in the seat. Very slightly also in the steering wheel. From the beginning, my car tends to steer slightly to the left. But I never paid much attention to this, because measuring the track showed that everything is ok. I am aware that a remote diagnosis is challenging. But perhaps you have any ideas where I should proceed with my further diagnosis? Is the suspension the right start, the drive shaft, or the wheel mounting? Or could it be the engine mounting? Or something completely different? What is the best way to proceed?
  20. The LED lights in the passenger side headlight of my 2016 Sierra 1500 Crew Cab are sporadically not working. Sometimes the are on, sometimes they aren't. The driver side functions properly all the time. The main light in the center of the headlight works fine all the time. I took it to the dealership and they replaced the whole headlight. When I turned on the truck a few hours after I picked it up from the dealership the LED lights were not working again. Has anyone had or heard about this issue? I'm going to take it back to the dealership, but would love some advice from anyone else that has dealt with this issue. Thanks!
  21. GM OEM TRI-MODE POWER BOARDS FOR SALE FOR 2019-2020 modeL SIERRA AND SILVERADO trucks. great shape. Minor scratches. Only on The original vehicle for a couple months. SHIPPING FROM NEW ORLEANS PRICE = $900 + shipping cost
  22. 2001 gmc HD 6.6 Have had no issues prior to this, I have 173 000 on this truck. 92 degree day. Drove to dump today, turned off, emptied trash, finished and started it back up then drove to the gas station. Turned it off for about 15 minutes, came back out of store, turned it on, started back up then immediately died. Tried to turn it on again and it did not turn over. My dash came on, my gauges worked and it shifted into neutral no issue. Just wouldnt turn over, wouldnt even click. My only light that did not come on on the dash was my WAIT TO START icon for the glow bulbs. Had to have it towed home. Let it sit about 40 min, my husband went out to try it but used the spare key and started up no issue. Twice. No delay in turn over. I went and tried with both 3x each and it started up also, but took longer to actually start. Last oil and fuel filter change less than 1000 miles ago. Batteries 6.months old. I havent started looking at relays or fuses. What would be the difference between symptoms and trouble shooting a bad ignition switch versus a bad starter? Any help appreciated.
  23. I'm interested in a quick read of the room. How does everyone feel about the news that GM is moving in the direction of an battery electric truck? Does the brand it's sold under influence if you'd be interested? Are you ready to buy one now or do you think we should wait it out? Thanks for your opinions!
  24. This is for general information, and documentation, if others have the same or similar problem(s) with their Air Conditioning. So, my AC conked out late-day on a 90+ degree May 26, on a 2017 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab, 6.0L, bought 8/31/2017 (2.5 years old) and almost 55,000 miles (highway mostly). Thought it might be OK the next day, but, no, the compressor was 'screaming'. It took a week to get it into the GMC dealership on Friday, June 5th. Tech diagnosed a leak at the condenser, leak at a hose fitting, and malfunctioning compressor. The compressor, when the AC is off, freewheels. But this one freewheels, then seems to want to engage, the freewheels again, then seems...and so on. Tech said compressor caused high pressure in hose (low pressure hose I think he said?) which cause fitting to leak. In addition, the compressor problem accelerated the condenser leak (known to leak after a while) at a weld joint (left-front). Man, I was pissed. Not at anyone in particular, but the fact that an AC can fail at only 55,000 miles. My 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD, 6.0L, longbed, extended, lasted over 160,000 miles and over 10 years without an AC problem except a recharge. Cost? $1799.24 to fix! (900 parts, and 900 labor for 7.2 hours of work.) I said I'll be contacting GMC corporate, and paid the $66 diagnosis fee (worth it; 0.5 hours of labor). On Monday, I called to pickup a price list with part numbers for the repair so I can use for my case. Well, I looked up the part numbers on Google and found a Chevrolet dealership out of Winston-Salem, gmpartsdirect.com (FLOW of Winston-Salem), selling genuine GM parts for greatly reduced prices. Now, mind you, the dealership may have discounted their prices by 15% if I asked because I bought it there, and GM corporate 'may' have covered half the cost (or maybe full cost?), but it was technically out-of-warranty with the 55,000 miles. BUT, at these gmpartsdirect.com prices, I can get it done myself and save, with labor by myself, about $1200! Obviously, I ordered the parts and will do the job myself... Saves the hassle, aggravation, and arguing with GMC... ba**ards. Wish they would make a decent product again. AC failing this early used to be unheard of. "The New Normal" I guess. Here is the price list, and the dealer's price...
  25. So I would like some advice. I want to level my 2015 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab. I am just out of the factory warranty with 38K miles. I was looking at installing a RC 3/2 leveling kit and have been reading many forums talking about how bad these leveling kits are to the suspension. Not just the RC, but any leveling kit. The kit is the 3" spacer between strut and tower with 2" block on rear. Many of the forums are saying the front suspension will wear out within 10K miles of installing. So I wanted to start a thread and get some opinions on some experiences with these kits. Has anyone had issues with these type of kits? What am I to expect in 10K, 15K, 20K miles to change out due to excessive wear from these kits? I know I will need to do an alignment right after install, but how will the truck ride and wear on the tires with these kits? Are they as bad as I have been reading? I read one thread where someone had to spend $6K to completely replace their IFS suspension from this kit. Was this a one off situation or a very good possibility? I want to get ride of that nose down look and give the truck a much better looking stance for a 4x4 truck. So what other options are there to level or give a slight lift to my truck that will cause as little damage down the road as possible to the suspension? I understand there is always risk when altering a suspension, but there must be some other options that do little damage and still allow a lift or level of the truck. Someone mentioned a body lift, but that still leaves the nose down look of the body. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.