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Only joined to spread the word. Like most of you I've been frustrated with the horrible interior lighting without easy fix. I also wasn't willing to have holes drilled in my trim pieces, or lose any functionality of my switches or courtesy lights. If that's of interest to you, I'll try to include screenshot of item since links die, and hopefully enough pictures to get you through so you don't have to spend multiple hours testing circuits to figure it out. The good news is the rear dome lights are so easy to do. Take the rear dome assembly down and take it apart. It's only held up with clips and a small pry tool to get it apart. Remove the 2 fresnel lenses out and put it back together. That's it. Probably 3X the usable light from the rear domes with a nice even spread. The front assembly is quite a bit harder. I'm not going to explain how to remove the assembly and take it apart, there's plenty of videos online. For this mod I ordered some neutral white 3/4inch clearance lights from Tecniq. They have a real nice pattern to them and plenty bright. I needed a way to power them so I used some mosfet trigger modules. Probably 10 bucks in parts if I didn't over order for another projects. I needed some diodes to prevent feedback and keep the bcm safe. I had some on hand. DONT FORGET THE DIODES. I removed the fresnel lenses from the front as well. I took everything apart and with a Drexel 'gently' made the leds fit roughly in the same position as the factory holes. It doesn't take much. I had to trim a bit from the bulbs as well. There's a tiny spot on the pcb board that produces 4 volts on either side corresponding to the lights. If your not comfortable soldering, it's pretty small. Next I routed the wires from the led through the holes directly behind them. I did have to cut some of the rubber out, but be careful not to take too much. Once the pcb was back in, I ran the wires towards the rear and again used the Drexel to make room on the back piece for them to come out. Then I wired them to the mosfet modules. You might have to knock the tiny led off of the module. It's a tiny power draw but these module are meant for 5 volts and we're working with 4V. Mosfet module Requires Vin, Gin, Vout, Gout, trigger, and trigger ground. I place the diodes in the the Vout. Make sure the orientation is correct. Module power out to led. Pigtailed Gin to trigger ground. And made some quick disconnect leads for the power in. I connected to power and ground directly to the wiring harness via t-taps. I know people have said you can mess up the bcm that way, but considering the leds only draw 40 mA @12V each I wasn't worried about it. Connected ground to number 5 pin on the grey harness. I'll have to apologize, I don't remember which wire I connected in the harness for power. It was late and I was very frustrated. I initially connected to number 14 but I lost some functionality. There was another wire that hade 12v power at all times and I hooked it up there. I believe it was pin number 10. Anyways I hope this helps. I know gm dropped the ball on these truck for interior lighting. Mine are so bright now I have zero issues. Have full view and it's bright enough to see everything. The lights up front don't shine at my eyes, and they light up the floor. I'm not even going to do the floor lamps now! 10/10 upgrade! P.S. I'm going to throw some pictures of the interior up here so you can see the bightness. Don't judge, she's a work truck! Lol ANMBEST 10PCS DC 5V-36V 15A(Max 30A) 400W Dual High-Power MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 0-20KHz PWM Adjustment Electronic Switch Control Board Motor Speed Control Lamp Brightness Control https://a.co/d/19L4oGi https://www.ebay.com/itm/292380373219
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General Motors I am beyond disappointed with the customer service I’ve received regarding my truck. I hope my voice gets heard in this matter. June 8th I was enjoying my Saturday, my engine made strange noises when starting my truck and stalled out on me at a light. When I started the truck again it made strange noises and started to smell funny, so I pulled over when suddenly my truck caught on fire. There could have potentially been an explosion injuring or killing me and innocent bystanders. I purchased the truck in February for 45,000$ and haven’t even put 10,000 miles on it. No assistance in putting me in a vehicle since the ordeal. I’ve been paying on the truck and the insurance. Customer service has been very rude to me. They won’t give me any information on the investigation for MY truck stating what caused the fire, however They decided to buyout the vehicle.. still waiting on an offer. I was informed that I won’t be reimbursed for anything I don’t have receipts for. I keep all my receipts in my glove box which caught on fire. Plus there’s many items I travel with that I don’t have receipts for. I had sentimental items in the truck, like a picture of my dad on the dash. Buying out the truck doesn’t cover the down payment I just put on the vehicle in February doesn’t cover all the rides I’ve had to navigate and pay for the past month and 9 days. I’ve been stuck at home all summer, no truck to take my boat out fishing. I am falling into a dark hole I’m depressed. I want my life back. I want to feel like a valued customer. #customerservice #customersatisfaction #GMC #chevy #fire #disappointed #share #like #fypviralシ
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Sharing experience for your info and any ideas you might have. My shiny new 2021 GMC Sierra Denali 3.0 Duramax Diesel with 4900 miles on it has been losing its mind. I get multiple, rotating DIC messages: “Service ESC”, “Service Parking Brake”, “Service ABS”, “Adaptive Cruise Control Disabled”, “Steering Assist Reduced Drive with Care”, . . . ). The error messages come with other “benefits” besides disabled cruise control. I also enjoy no GPS signal, no Blind Spot sensors, no collision avoidance sensors, and who knows what else. Fortunately, the diagnostic codes were stored so the tech could see them, and I provided video of the DIC messages each time, too. They are on their 4th attempt to repair it now. First time, they replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor (4025920) . Second time, they tried the same thing and replaced the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor, again. The 3rd time, they inspected the engine harness but found no damage so they replaced the pigtail to the Exhaust Particulate Matter Sensor and followed an 8 hr rest cycle and road test protocol. It worked for about 2 hours after I picked it up, then everything lit up again. This (4th) time, they are saying they will replace the entire wiring harness per GM’s direction. I do not want to use Florida’s Lemon Law, but I am starting the process just to be safe. BTW, I’m also getting the “long-crank/no-start” issue. They just applied the ECM update per TSB for this problem, so we’ll see if that worked when/if I get to keep the truck more than a couple hours between service appointments. I was having issues with the passive locking feature where the truck locks the doors a few seconds after I get out with the key in my pocket. It would not work even when set to on. Now that they did the Infotainment software update (V155) this seems to be fixed. I’m still having false messages that the SD Card for the Navigation System has been removed when it has not been. GM has a bulletin out so they know about this issue, but it appears there is no fix action on this one yet. After looking up each code listed on the repair orders (RO’s), I believe the main harness is a very likely cause of all the DIC error messages and system failures. Otherwise, all those modules and sensors involved have gone bad simultaneously. I suppose a power surge of some kind could do that, but then it seems the modules would not work fine in the short time between repairs. Here are the codes the tech reported on the last two Repair Orders (bold codes where noted on both RO’s): 2/5/22: B1A01 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure B395B Side View Camera Left P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0020 Low Speed CAN Bus U0022 Low Speed CAN Communication Bus (+) Low U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0155 Lost Communication with Instrument Panel Cluster Control Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module 2/10/22: B0967 Parking Aid On/Off Switch Circuit Short to Ground B1AO1 Speaker 1 General Electric Failure P1488 Particulate Matter Sensor Protection Tube Performance U0077 Control Module Communication Chassis Expansion CAN Bus U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module U0131 Lost Communication with Power Steering Control Module U0151 Lost Communication with Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module U0184 Lost Communication with Radio Unit U0415 Invalid Data Received From Electronic Brake Control Module U0421 Invalid Data Received From Suspension Control Module U0422 Invalid Data Received From Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module -
So I'm trying to do the heated/cooled seat retrofit in my 2017 silverado 1500 and I've found a lot of stuff online about how it would be a whole lot of work because of all the extra wiring that the system has, & that it would be almost impossible if you didn't have heated seats to begin with, but I don't accept that & I am determined to make it happen. I've already bought every bit of interior out of this high country which came with the heated/cooled seats, but now that it comes time to actually do the swap I realize that I probably should have done a little more research before spending this much money on this stuff because If pgamboa is correct that means I just wasted $1500, but I'm determined to prove him wrong(no offense if you happen to see this lol). So I guess My main question is, has anyone been able to do this retrofit successfully, to where the heating, cooling, and power all work as designed & so there aren't any airbag lights or other warning lights/messages on the dash? I'm a technician at a gm dealership so I have access to all the wiring diagrams and oem information that I could possibly need, but I'm a little confused as to the hard parts that I will 100% actually need,& I haven't heard of anybody actually doing this successfully with everything working as it should, so I want to make sure it's possible without wasting a whole bunch of time on it to figure it out. The other main concern that I know will need to be done for it to function properly, and the thing I'm most concerned about figuring out, is the programming aspect of it. Obviously the truck will need to be programmed in order for the system to function, but im not quite sure on how to go about doing that, especially since I'm going to be adding new modules entirely since my truck didn't have heated seats to begin with, but would there not be a way to avoid having to do that & just running power and ground to the heated/cooled seats, but still using thd factory buttons to retain the oem look? I mean their pretty much just toggle switches, so really in theory, for for the low setting heat I would think I could just install a resistor between the switch & seats, and could do away with the need for all the modules , I just wouldn't have the memory features or comfort/convince settings that I would if it were programmed correct? That is obvi a worse case scenario type situation if there's just no way to make it work with an aftermarket programmer or something. Which everyone always says something about how if you go that route & end up taking it to a dealership or something & they reprogram the bcm then it would take away all the other features, but since I work at a dealership I can make sure it never has an mdi hooked up to it. It'd be nice if gm would let you program any module to your vehicle if all the appropriate hardware was there & whatnot I really don't understand why they don't allow that, but apparently it's above my pay grade lol. But if anyone has any info om this, or better yet if angone has actually SUCCESSFULLY done this, please help ya boy out with some info! Please & thanks In advance! -
My l84 5.3 cracked some pistons now thinking of doing a light hone but wanted to know if it would even save the engine ? The scratches are pretty light my nail doesn’t get stuck but I do feel em. The pours on the other hand I’m not sure what could have caused those little things ?
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"Opinion ‘Car Talk’ host: Independent auto shops deserve the right to repair your car September 28, 2022 at 7:00 a.m. EDT (Washington Post staff illustration; images by iStock) Ray Magliozzi is one half of NPR’s show “Car Talk,” a longtime independent repair-shop owner, a Dear Car Talk columnist and a car reviewer on CarTalk.com. When your car breaks, what do you do? Okay, after you utter a certain word? You have to decide where to take the car to get it fixed, right? You really have two choices. You can go to the dealership or an independent repair shop. However, some car manufacturers don’t want to share key information for diagnosing and fixing cars with independent shops — and that’s something that’s not only bad for repair shops but also bad for you. As a radio host who has advised thousands on their car problems and as an independent shop owner myself, I know all too well that car owners benefit when they have more choices. Congress is considering a national “right-to-repair” law, and lawmakers need to pass it to protect your rights as a consumer. Story continues below advertisement Back in the old days, when people were still switching over from traveling by mastodon, you repaired cars with your eyes, ears, nose and hands — and, if you were desperate, a Chilton repair manual. Now, you often repair a car by first plugging a computer into the on-board-diagnostics port and seeing what the computer tells you is broken. So, what’s the problem? Carmakers and their dealerships want to maintain control of modern diagnostic tools, which forces customers to come to them for repairs. Even though independents are willing to pay to license these tools, dealers see an advantage in exclusivity. Dealerships have always had certain advantages. They have better coffee in their waiting rooms. Heck, they have waiting rooms. They have clean restrooms that don’t double as auxiliary air-filter storage. They also work on your particular make of car all day, every day. So they might be familiar with an oddball problem because they’ve worked on 4,000 Camrys. Story continues below advertisement Independent shops are small businesses, run by individuals — some of whom are terrific people and mechanics and some of whom will blame your car troubles on demonic possession and give you essential oils to fix it. But independent shops have their own advantage: price. Their labor and parts costs are usually much lower — hey, who do you think is ultimately paying for the dealerships’ coffee and fancy couches? Some research has found that dealers, on average, charged as much as 20 percent more than independent shops for the same repairs. This article was featured in the Opinions A.M. newsletter. Sign up here for a digest of opinions in your inbox six days a week. There’s also the matter of distance. Not every town in the United States has a stop light, let alone a dealership for every car brand. There are 16,752 franchised car dealers in the United States, according to the National Automobile Dealers Association, but there are nearly 240,000 repair shops — meaning that for a lot of people, an independent shop is the only nearby option. Story continues below advertisement At Car Talk, there are times we’ll strongly recommend an independent shop for standard work like brakes, shocks, the engine and regular service. And there are times we’ll recommend going to the dealership, like when you have a particularly rare problem that might be unique to your make and model. But at the end of the day, you should take your car to the dealer to be fixed because you want to not because dealers have hoarded all the key information. Beyond the information needed to diagnose and fix your car, dealerships also want to maintain control of your car’s telematics. What are telematics? Well, now that everything is connected to the internet, your car can notify your dealer when your car needs an oil change or has a blown sensor. Using the software they’re denying to independent shops, the dealer can then diagnose the trouble code, call you and schedule a repair. Most modern cars already have this ability. Car manufacturers point to the importance of keeping your car’s data safe — including your location, say — as a reason to deny independent shops access to these tools and codes. They are right about the need for data security, but part of privacy is that you should be the one to decide who has access to your data. Story continues below advertisement At least 17 states have laws on the books stating that your vehicle’s data belongs to you. Many independent repair shops will need to invest in tools to keep customer data secure, but just because they’ll need to invest doesn’t mean they can’t compete with dealers. Lack of choice — and competition — is never good for the consumer. So consumer groups and independent shops are promoting what they call right-to-repair legislation, guaranteeing consumers more choice by requiring automakers to license their data with independent repair shops. The voters in my fair state of Massachusetts approved just such a law in 2020. In 2021, 27 states introduced or passed similar legislation. Beyond those state laws, there’s a national push to protect consumers and independent shops. H.R. 6570, a national right-to-repair bill, has been sitting with the House Energy and Commerce Committee for months. My Car Talk colleagues and I know not everyone will support right-to-repair laws. Dealerships won’t like the level playing field. Mechanics might not like how much work they’ll actually have to do. Still, this is an issue everyone else can get behind. If you own something, you should be able to choose where to repair it. " -
Hello I'm having a problem with these headlight that I installed on my 2015 GMC Sierra. I install the newer Denali headlight the blinker light stay on and when I turn on the driver side blinker it flashes the high beams and stuff. I need some advice the harness I use was from GEN5
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HD focused but could it dribble down to smaller trucks https://propane.com/environment/podcast/episode-8-could-propane-be-the-new-diesel/
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Does anyone know where I can find these steps for a Silverado? I believe they are factory steps but I can't find any online.
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Hello all, first and foremost thanks for your time to stop by and read and help if it applies to you. so I have a 99 Silverado with a 5.3 in it. Also I have a 04 Silverado that I recently acquired. The windshield washer reservoir was cracked on my 04. So I began to pull out the reservoir in my 99 to put in my 04. After I buttoned up everything. I was putting the 99 back together and once I hooked the battery up. I tried to start it. And I didn’t get anything other than “tic tic tic tic tic” like as if the battery was dead. I put my newer battery in it and still same thing. Do you guys have any idea on what could be causing this. Anything helps. Thanks so much
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These are 1 month old all-weather liners from the 2020 Tahoe in black color. Genuine GM OEM products offer precise fit and high quality finish. We have traded the car for 22 and did not get to use the liners. They cover first and second row. I was told they fit 2015-2020 Tahoes and Yukons and even Escalades First row- GM part # 84185470 Second row - GM part # 23237406 My price is $90 + actual shipping. I have paid $260 for them. My loss is your gain. Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon
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CHEVROLET TAHOE GMC YUKON AUDIO UPGRADE, KICKER® 200 WATT AMPLIFIER AND SUBWOOFER SYSTEM GM part 19355507 Kicker part PSUTA15 Brand new never used or open GM Genuine OEM Accessories Amplifier and Subwoofer system made by Kicker for Tahoes 2016-2020 and many other GM trucks. ( Please note this is the not the cheaper Sub only kit but rather full audio upgrade system with amplifier, DSP and all parts, Retail rice at dealers is $1300. Part # 19355507. Please check gm accessories site for compatibility. It retails for $900-$1300 new on eBay and at dealers, I paid $930. Selling for the price of $625+shipping. The parts are sealed and never opened. I bought it for my 2020 Tahoe, but I do not have time to install it. It is plug and play according to GM.
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Any had any experience with this kit? GM Dash Cam It seem interesting and possibly worth it. It says it has built in ADAS so I'm curious what all that might add to the functionality of the vehicle seeing as this system actually plugs into the OBDII plug and communicates with the onboard computer. Thoughts?
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2017 sierra A/T crew cab I have the most annoying tick noise over bumps, coming from the b pillar behind my left ear and it is driving me brick house, I've pulled at the trim off put my hands on everything made sure everything is tight, stuff rags in between contact points, I've run out of ideas, anyone have an guidance for me, I'm a ex gm technician of 5 years , I know what I'm doing but of course my own truck baffles me..per usual any new bulletins or tsbs?
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I've been researching exhaust options until I'm blue in the face and I don't think I'm any closer to a decision. I had the GMPP system on my K2 but I can't believe the markup on the T1 system if you go through the GM Accessary website or dealer. I've seen a code flying around for 20% off and I have around $200 worth of GM points after recently purchasing my T1. That would bring it down to around $1200 which is a far cry from around $1750 where it MSRPs. I know, I know, you get what you pay for. But when muffler-only options are so much cheaper, I'm torn. In my research through the Forum I see I missed an exhaust sale back in August. Any other GM deals y'all see floating around?
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I waited several extra months for the AT4's release to purchase my truck. Less than 1 day of light driving and 70 miles into my new truck the transmission started to slip in and out of gear. I pulled into a parking lot and when I shifted into revers the truck slowly rolled forward. Onstar had a flat bed tow truck there within an hour to bring the day old truck back to the dealer. The dealer can not start work on the truck until GM approves the new transmission. I am told that there is a lot of extra paperwork and approval because there are so few miles and it is a new truck. I would think that GM would want to maintain their customer loyalty and support their new designs before aggravating buyers of new trucks. I have been a lifelong GM buyer, but thinking that i should have gone with a Ford or Ram. Has anyone else had to wait for repairs on a brand new vehicle? -
Hey everyone! I have been browsing the forums for about 6 months now and finally pulled the trigger on a 2020 RST about 3 weeks ago. I am looking to get some black wheels with some all terrains before winter. I am leaning towards OEM black wheels of some type as I have had better luck with OEM wheels holding up to these Minnesota winters. Does anyone have these 18" OEM wheels (84641199)? I would love to see these on a vehicle! I was also thinking of finding a set of Trail Boss wheels but I don't care for the looks of those as much. Lastly I found a few of these sets on Ebay, they appear to be my current wheels but in Black. I can't seem to find anywhere saying that these came from the factory in Black, but I think they look great! Thanks everyone!!
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https://www.gmupfitter.com:80/files/media/photo/661/2016_LD_FS_CK_PU_100915.pdf Been trying to access it at gmupfitters.com since friday, apparently the site needs permissions to enter. I have the 2015 and 2017, for some reason the 2016 is not in my archives. Anyone have a copy? I would appreciate it.. -
Part # from GM site 84520923. Could not find answers to the questions about this Performance part from GM. So I am paying back to this forum with an unboxing of the filter to answer some of the questions. Is it a disposable filter? How often do you change it? Do you need to tune the truck to take advantage of this filter? Still to be answered in use: Are there any improvement (subjectively by feel and by mileage)? Will it improve anything including idle smoothness? Slightest change to the sound of the intake? 10X more expensive than stock filter is being put to test. I get that nobody in the right frame of mind would spend 10x on the drop-in filter but I did use my GM points. Let's see... Paper manual that came with GM Performance Air Filter
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Hi im rebuilding an 86 5.7l small block dumped the old heads (warped one) installed 2 Vortec heads , the motor that will see MARINE use, 48' house boat 3Bowee try hull. my q is what is the purpose of the VALLEY COVERS in the engine ? there was a very rusty cover held by 3 bolts that connected to a central oil delivery " tube", do I need it? why is the cover used in the first place? will its absence cause detrimental issues in the future? ps .aluminum intake manifold is new how do I make sure proper install I got rigid plastic intake gaskets new grade 8 bolts from local supplyer keep snaping at 25 foot/pd setting help!
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On Sunday March 8th I was driving my Sierra home from my parents-in law. I pulled out from a stop sign and was just getting up to speed when there was a loud bang followed by loss of power, Loud ticking noise, vibrations and a sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. I knew this was lifters instantly as it Happened to me in August of 2018, a short 11,000 miles ago. So, I took it in to my dealer who ran diagnostics and gave me the news That I would need lifters replaced yet again. Unfortunately, my power train warranty ran out December of 2019, so they told me I would owe a balance of $2900+ tax. Of course I was very upset with this news as I would have imagined the dealer would talk to GM and get this issue sorted out.. I mean it was only a few months over a year and less than 11,000 miles since they replacedall of the lifters and the cam shaft. I contacted GM myself and over the course of the last week have been working with the dealer and trying to talk to someone at GM who could help. Finally I reached a “senior analyst” who is apparently the top tier of customer assistance and she told me there was absolutely nothing they can do and I am responsible for the entire bill. I insisted that GM must know about the issues this engine has By now and should acknowledge and help their clients, but she offered no help. How can I trust this engine again? I have read many posts people have put on this forum alone with this issue of failing lifters. How can anyone be expected to pay this much for an issue that is derived likely from GMs design of the afm system? Especially after we pay $50,000+ for the truck to begin with! I do not pretend to be an Mechanical or financial expert, but I feel I have been severely wronged in this situation. I have no choice but to eat this cost and sell the truck before the lifters have a chance to fail again. I would suggest anyone doing research considering buying one of these trucks (I believe Sierra and Silverado 14-18 at least) that has the active fuel management system to rethink it. I would also go out on a limb and suggest my friends with 14-15 year Silverado and Sierras (with expired powertrain warranty’s) to consider selling them before the lifters fail on yours and you are stuck with a $3000-$5000 bill. Good luck all.- 19 replies
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Do the 2019 GM Step Assists fit the 2014-2018 model years? Trying to figure out if the 2019 Sport Steps will fit my 2016 Silverado. Thanks. -
2019 chevy 2500 midnight edition wheels for sale 8 lugs 600 miles on them. Asking 2,000 for them OBO
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Hey all, we're a local Chevy dealer with a strong ecommerce presence. We have the lowest prices on the Kicker subwoofer package for the 2014+ Silverado & Sierra Crew & Double/Extended Cab sizes. Installation does not require dealer install. it is a plug and play package. We have guaranteed low prices that shouldn't be beat! GM offers a few versions of these units: -Double Cab and Crew Cab models have different parts numbers -GM offers just a sub upgrade, or the sub upgrade plus amplifier on the door speakers. *The standard Sub upgrade works with the Bose system. *The kit including Sub plus Amp on the door speakers will NOT work with Bose systems. For a price, please send us a message with your body style truck, and which kit you would be interested in plus your Zip Code for shipping. Everything is in stock ready to ship. Forum members will find that our prices on all GM accessories will be hard to beat. Please message me with any questions on this or any other accessory you may need for your truck. *** Currently running a little bit of a deeper discount on the crew cab models, with just the sub upgrade. Buy cheap, sell cheap is the name of the game ***
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What’s the cheapest most efficient 3/5, 4/6 lowering kit or drop for a 2014 Silverado crew cab standard bed 2wd 5.3???
