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2018 Chevy 2500 LT. Unfortunately going back to shop for second time. Thank God I have warranty. Going for emissions related problems. First time Coolant reservoir need replaced. Also noticed that none of my mirror lights work. I'm wondering if this an issue I could fix myself easily? Led backup lights also wont turn on even when I turn on bed light and put in reverse. I hope warranty doesn't give me trouble. I did not have a problem the first time with warranty. But with this "Service Emissions System:. Along with lights not working in mirrors. And to top it off I must have some sort of short where license plate bulbs are at. Plate lights wont stay on even with new bulbs.

Anyone else with a new 2014 Sierra having an issue with the frame rusting and paint/wax flaking off? I have 3000 kms and it looks horrible. I also own a 2011 Canyon service truck with 105kms and the frame looks like new. So irriating as my Sierra is a beautiful truck aside

"Opinion ‘Car Talk’ host: Independent auto shops deserve the right to repair your car September 28, 2022 at 7:00 a.m. EDT (Washington Post staff illustration; images by iStock) Ray Magliozzi is one half of NPR’s show “Car Talk,” a longtime independent repair-shop owner, a Dear Car Talk columnist and a car reviewer on CarTalk.com. When your car breaks, what do you do? Okay, after you utter a certain word? You have to decide where to take the car to get it fixed, right? You really have two choices. You can go to the dealership or an independent repair shop. However, some car manufacturers don’t want to share key information for diagnosing and fixing cars with independent shops — and that’s something that’s not only bad for repair shops but also bad for you. As a radio host who has advised thousands on their car problems and as an independent shop owner myself, I know all too well that car owners benefit when they have more choices. Congress is considering a national “right-to-repair” law, and lawmakers need to pass it to protect your rights as a consumer. Story continues below advertisement Back in the old days, when people were still switching over from traveling by mastodon, you repaired cars with your eyes, ears, nose and hands — and, if you were desperate, a Chilton repair manual. Now, you often repair a car by first plugging a computer into the on-board-diagnostics port and seeing what the computer tells you is broken. So, what’s the problem? Carmakers and their dealerships want to maintain control of modern diagnostic tools, which forces customers to come to them for repairs. Even though independents are willing to pay to license these tools, dealers see an advantage in exclusivity. Dealerships have always had certain advantages. They have better coffee in their waiting rooms. Heck, they have waiting rooms. They have clean restrooms that don’t double as auxiliary air-filter storage. They also work on your particular make of car all day, every day. So they might be familiar with an oddball problem because they’ve worked on 4,000 Camrys. Story continues below advertisement Independent shops are small businesses, run by individuals — some of whom are terrific people and mechanics and some of whom will blame your car troubles on demonic possession and give you essential oils to fix it. But independent shops have their own advantage: price. Their labor and parts costs are usually much lower — hey, who do you think is ultimately paying for the dealerships’ coffee and fancy couches? Some research has found that dealers, on average, charged as much as 20 percent more than independent shops for the same repairs. This article was featured in the Opinions A.M. newsletter. Sign up here for a digest of opinions in your inbox six days a week. There’s also the matter of distance. Not every town in the United States has a stop light, let alone a dealership for every car brand. There are 16,752 franchised car dealers in the United States, according to the National Automobile Dealers Association, but there are nearly 240,000 repair shops — meaning that for a lot of people, an independent shop is the only nearby option. Story continues below advertisement At Car Talk, there are times we’ll strongly recommend an independent shop for standard work like brakes, shocks, the engine and regular service. And there are times we’ll recommend going to the dealership, like when you have a particularly rare problem that might be unique to your make and model. But at the end of the day, you should take your car to the dealer to be fixed because you want to not because dealers have hoarded all the key information. Beyond the information needed to diagnose and fix your car, dealerships also want to maintain control of your car’s telematics. What are telematics? Well, now that everything is connected to the internet, your car can notify your dealer when your car needs an oil change or has a blown sensor. Using the software they’re denying to independent shops, the dealer can then diagnose the trouble code, call you and schedule a repair. Most modern cars already have this ability. Car manufacturers point to the importance of keeping your car’s data safe — including your location, say — as a reason to deny independent shops access to these tools and codes. They are right about the need for data security, but part of privacy is that you should be the one to decide who has access to your data. Story continues below advertisement At least 17 states have laws on the books stating that your vehicle’s data belongs to you. Many independent repair shops will need to invest in tools to keep customer data secure, but just because they’ll need to invest doesn’t mean they can’t compete with dealers. Lack of choice — and competition — is never good for the consumer. So consumer groups and independent shops are promoting what they call right-to-repair legislation, guaranteeing consumers more choice by requiring automakers to license their data with independent repair shops. The voters in my fair state of Massachusetts approved just such a law in 2020. In 2021, 27 states introduced or passed similar legislation. Beyond those state laws, there’s a national push to protect consumers and independent shops. H.R. 6570, a national right-to-repair bill, has been sitting with the House Energy and Commerce Committee for months. My Car Talk colleagues and I know not everyone will support right-to-repair laws. Dealerships won’t like the level playing field. Mechanics might not like how much work they’ll actually have to do. Still, this is an issue everyone else can get behind. If you own something, you should be able to choose where to repair it. "

I logged in to My GMC site to check warranty and noticed an additional coverage. Special Coverage N192289390 Covered to 180,000 miles or 12 years. Anybody know what this is? Google returned nothing.

I own a 2014 Chevy Silverado Double Cab 4x4 Z71 and wanted to share my experience as I approach 30K. When I first bought this truck it was great. I like the features, the ride, very smooth driving characteristics and overall design. Then the recalls started and so far I have had four performed that I know of. I also started noticing some issues that made me feel as if the 10K off MSRP I received was not enough of a discount. Below is recap and assessment of some issues I have seen in the last year and a half of ownership. 1. Paint- too thin and the appearance is blotchy, I am currently having some issues with adhesion as I watch the paint peel off the lower driver and passenger door, this will be covered under the warranty according to the body shop. 2. Recalls- mostly minor but I am sure as time goes on these recalls will increase in severity and inconvenience. GM should extend the bumper to bumper warranty, by a certain amount of time/milage, per recall. 3. Vibrations- there are several issues in this area. Tires are number one in my experience, then the v4 AFM mode and lastly the drivetrain are all sources for these vibrations. But if you look at the numbers on this site and do the math this seems to be an issue that only effects .5%-1% of trucks out there. Even with these statistics in some cases the vibrations have been eleminated. 4. Interior- nice to look at and touch but quality is a C+. Constant snap, crackle, pop, sounds heard mostly caused by thermo expansion and contraction. Then there are the rattles that are caused from cheap clips and loose components. One solution is to take everything apart and use dampening materials (carpet padding/expanding foam/electrical tape) to fill in void spaces and eleminate rattles. 5. Electrical- there are inconsistencies in the way the electronics perform. The radio sometimes emits a static/buzz sound through the speakers when I open the driver door. The bluetooth is temperamental, and the security locking feature sometimes has a delay. 6. Powertrain- GM has some work to do here. From the slip yolk clunk to the G80 rearend backlash knock, this area of the truck needs to be refined and shored up. There was also a leafspring knock that I had to deal with for awhile that I resolved by properly torquing the u-bolts. Even with all this I give this truck a "B-" grade. The 5.3 ecotec MGP along with HP/Torque numbers, the 100k powertrain warranty/36k three year bumper to bumper, and overall performance including towing/hauling make up for some of these issues. I would recommend this vehicle to others but if you are looking take your time and test drive this for a weekend and look for these issues. There are some that are better than others and this is the number one thing when looking at MSRP/resale value.

Have any of you been able to get GM to cover radiator leaks beyond the b2b warranty? I have 40k on mine and was just informed I have a leak. I noticed they extended the warranty on 14 and 15’s but I’m not seeing any newer models being covered.

Does GM have any unpublished warranties on paint for 2003 trucks? I was cleaning the exterior windows tonight and noticed large areas of clear coat are missing / lifting off the top of the cab.

Just actually stumbled across this page while browsing coloradofans. Jeff from Dallas Texas, 2018 Colorado 4x4 LT, basically Stock as it's my daily. Also have a 2018 Camaro ZL1. I need some help, before I start looking at all of your trucks, mods, other cool stuff.. (copied this from coloradofans.com, also from a few subs on reddit..) Hi all, need some advice- Let me preface this with, I am not trying to get anyone in trouble nor an I trying to throw anyone under the bus. I just want my Colorado fixed. I appreciate anyones feedback as I explain the story. 2018 Colorado LT, 4x4, 30k miles.... About three weeks ago, I had an appointment at my local Chevrolet dealer, which is a very large dealer in the Dallas/Fort-Worth metroplex. The truck has a very weird sounding, only can be described as an intermittent, yet ANNOYING and LOUD squeaking/rubbing sound coming from what sounds like the front of the truck. I showed up to my appointment, and the service advisor and I went for a ride, and he said that he could barely hear the sound, but I was able to hear it as clear as day. He also pointed out that he heard it when we accelerated, and when we braked. Nothing when we were coasting, not using the brakes, etc. He told me that I would have to leave it with him for a few days, or get there early on a Saturday for his guys to take it in. I didn't have the ability to do that at the time, so I told him I would reach back out in about a week or so. Fast forward a week - I was to be traveling so I was going to leave the truck prior to leaving the DFW airport. I ran some errands in the morning, and after getting the truck up to operating temperature, It is not making the sound, at all. Unfortunately I did not have the time to deal with this at the time so I went back to my house, and hopped a ride to the airport. Once I got back, and started my routine I noticed that the noise is still back and I can still hear it as loud as day. I made an appointment for 8:15 AM on last Tuesday. I showed up at 7:30 and they got me checked in. We took it for a ride around the lot, and the service advisor heard the noise. He got me right in. the shuttle took me to work. About three hours later he called me and he said - and please bear with me, I am no mechanic and my terminology may be off - "There was a seal in the transfer casing that was rotted..we fixed it, blah blah..and now it is not making the noise, OH, and you need an oil change. Want that while you're here?". Hopped an uber back to the dealer on my lunch and drove back to the office. Everything seemed fine. I got out of work around 5pm that day and went to the grocery store, sure enough, the noise is still there, and louder than ever. I am getting frustrated at this point. I reviewed the work order only to find out that it mentions nothing about fixing anything, only that the tech could not duplicate the issue I described. At this point, I am very hesitant to go back to that dealership, so I reach out to some other local enthusiasts for a referral, and I make contact with someone who works at a dealership about 30minutes south of where I live. I was to stop by Saturday morning, and ask for his buddy the service advisor. No problem at all. I stopped in right on time, met with the advisor, we took it for a ride around the lot. Sure enough, there it is! The noise on the stop, and on the go! He heard it, I heard it. But he told me that they won't get to it until Monday because the suspension, front end guys, etc, won't be in. I say OK, Whatever it takes. I also say, hey since I am new to town and need my registration switched, can you guys please do a safety inspection? He says yeah no problem. Another $35 uber back to my apartment. Today I get a call. And now, I am being told that the noise I am hearing is the noise of air going into the engine, and it's louder because I have a K&N Blackwing Cold Air Intake system. Which makes absolutely zero sense, since the noise only happens on the stop and go, and it's also a grinding/rubbing/squeaking noise. However, at this point.. I am not arguing. Because I have a short temper and I really don't want to be mean right now. You catch more bees with honey than vinegar. I just picked it up, and it's still making the same noise. The intake is not causing the issue.. and I don't have the stock one as I just moved here. I'm not a mechanic, but that's the stupidest **** I've ever heard. I have had intakes on all of my cars. There's one on my 2018 ZL1 camaro, no noises like that. I had them on my 2016 SS, 2015 C7, etc.. Never had any issues. The only COMMON issue here is that much like in the past like I've dealt with Pontiac back in 2009, the dealership is using any kind of excuse to not have to do any work at all. (Example - in 2010, broken ball joint on my 2009 g8 gt - they blamed it on my roto-fab engine covers hitting the hood, when in fact, it was a MAJOR TSB..) So a couple of things. 1) Where in DFW can I go to get this fixed 2) Should I even bother calling the GM customer care number.. because I am SERIOUSLY SICK OF "NO RENTALS BEING AVAILABLE" and having to pay for an uber. It's going to cost me $36 to get to the dealer tomorrow to pick the truck up. 3) Any other advise. Thanks in advance.

Hi! In April, my Yukon was throwing codes P0172 P0175. Local GMC dealer in Louisiana "fixed", by replacing some sensor. Traveled to PA, codes came back on. Local GMC dealer fixed by replacing BCM, body control module in June. Now my check engine light is back on! Power train Warranty ran out 2-3 weeks ago. Also had extended warranty, which also ran out at 5 years, which was Sept. Code onstar says its throwing now is P0430, all of the codes from I can find are related to exhaust system. My question is are these 3 codes related??? Could this be something they will have to fix under warranty, given it's related and has been worked on several times? If not, what does this mean? Catalytic converter bad? Help! My husband is being laid off in the next week. So, obviously finances are tight. Yes, obviously itll be fixed regardless, just trying to plan and cut back elsewhere if needed. This has been a great vehicle! As luck has it, trouble starts when warranty runs out. Really wanting to trade, but waiting on new body Adding mileage if matters, 91K

I have a question I hope someone can help me with. I decided to try doing a burnout with my truck today for the first time. I did one for about 5-10 seconds, or tried to with some success. Now I have a check engine light and the truck runs like $h!t. Wont get up to highway speed and transmission doesnt shift properly. When at an idle it runs rough. I tried hooking the obd2 test tool to the truck under the dash, and two codes come up. P228c - fuel pressure regulator P0089 - fuel pressure regulator. I tried the erase button and it did nothing. I attached 3 notifications I received when this happened. I'm going to take the truck to dealership tomorrow. Any ideas on what this is? Will warranty be void since I was trying to do a burnout? Any help or thoughts on my situation is appreciated. Thanks

Hi...I'm new to this forum and hope you guys can help me with your experiences. My 2015 Silverado LTZ with 6.2l engine developed the dreaded bent pushrod at 26k miles. It's at the dealer now, has been since last Wednesday (it's Saturday now). I called them yesterday for an ETA on repairs and they told me that it could take several weeks due to a shortage of pushrods! They went on to say that GM had zero of them in stock, and there are only two dealers in the entire US that have one each, which are probably spoken for, for a customer's repair. Sounds like bullshit, but that's what they told me. It seems to me that they're still building these motors, so they should certainly have pushrods, and should make them available for warranty customers at least. The truck being my third vehicle, ordinarily the wait time would be irritating but tolerable, BUT I have vacation plans in less than two weeks that will involve pulling my 27' travel trailer for a thousand miles or so. I have deposits and reservations at a dozen RV parks, and we will be caravaning with friends. So, my question to you is: What remedies, if any, can I expect from GM under these circumstances? Is there anything in the warranty about taking a reasonable time for repairs? Can I expect a replacement vehicle for repair jobs of long duration? If there are no replacement vehicles, can I expect compensation for a rental? If none of these are available, can I sue to recapture the cost of renting a replacement tow vehicle?

Lately my starter seemed to be dragging a bit after the truck sat overnight and fathers day morning it was totally dead so I had to call triple A since my portable jumper died a while back and I haven't replaced it yet. Before jumping he did a quick test that showed 12.6 volts but he said the battery couldn't take a load so most likely it was bad. I got the truck fathers day 3 years ago and figured there was nothing left to pro rate so I'd just buy a new battery. I did a search on the forum here to see what others were using and came across a thread where a member stated his battery went bad before the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expired and he got it replaced under warranty without a pro rate. I thought just my luck my warranty has probably expired but after checking my paperwork I found I actually had 4 days left! I took the truck in and sure enough the battery only had 28% with a 750 amp load so they replaced it at no charge. The rest of the story on how I saved even more dough...on the way home I heard a clunk under the hood after hitting a bump and when I opened it I immediately saw the battery leaning over (probably should have checked before leaving but who screws up a simple battery install right?!?). A quick peep with my phone flashlight showed the tech failed to hook the bottom of the battery under the tabs on the tray before putting the clamp on as seen in the second picture so the battery was loose. I went back down to the dealership and the service writer said she would have someone fix it as soon as they could. I told her I didn't have time to wait but I was bringing it in for a service in a couple of days so they could fix it then. She asked if it was a paid service and I said yes to which she replied "your service will be on us to make up for your inconvenience!" I don't get too excited when stuff goes wrong rather I only care what someone does to fix it and have to give kudos to the dealership for their more than generous offer to make it better than right. I also want to give big thanks to whoever it was that posted about having their battery replaced for free since I would have spent over 300 bucks if I hadn't come across that post! Looks like it's time to find some more mods to do with the dough I saved!

Can anyone share some insights with getting the dealer to do the transmission flush on the 8 spd? I can't recreate the issue on demand but it tends to have really hard shifts when its cold, coming out of stop and go traffic, and going up hill. This morning I thought my rear end was going to fall out at the top of the hill but it hasn't done it for weeks. Just looking to avoid the "we can't detect anything wrong" problem.

Hi all, First post. Just wanted to share this story and get feedback and see if others have had a similar experience. At approximately 70,000 kms I started noticing an engine tick. At first I assumed it was some sort of direct injection noise. It got worse. Eventually I lost almost all power and I brought the truck in to the dealer for servicing. I was told that I had a bent push rod on cylinder #4. That was replaced and nothing else. I questioned why this happened and I was told it is common. At 85,000 kms the tick returned/got worse. Again I brought the truck to the dealer. Eventually (after a few arguments) they decided to replace valves/lifters on the 4 AFM cylinders, and they found another bent push rod. When I went to pick up the truck, the noise was still there. They completed further diagnostics and found scuffing on 2 pistons. They called GM and they said to replace the engine. Full engine replacement! Any thoughts, comments on this? I haven't got the truck back yet - waiting on engine to be replaced. Matt

Hi All, I am debating whether or not to cancel my extended warranty I purchased 2 1/2 years ago when I bought my 2016 Silverado LT new. Obviously, the warranty overlaps everything the manufacture is offering for the first 3 years, 36,000 miles etc. My ext warranty is 60 months (5 yrs), 100,000 miles. Covers everything Engine, Transmission/transaxcel, transfer case, electrical, Fuel, Interior, Exterior, steering, suspension, cooling, drive axle, brakes, AC/heating, and additional benefits like lockout, tow, rental coverage, trip interruption, gas supply and jump starts etc. The question is, I paid $2998 for it, but seeing that nearly I have 5 months left before my MFG warranty expires on the 3yr/36k, would it be worth it just to cut my losses now or keep it? I would get a little under half back, (roughly $1300-$1400). I know the warranty only "covers" 2 years, since the first 3 is all MFG. So essentially I'm paying $1500 a year for 2 yrs for this thing. I haven't had any "major" issue, which I am mainly concern about the transmission or engine just needing a replacement/rebuild that would cost in the THOUSANDS, the other parts I can do on my own and I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do my own auto repair. If it were you, would you cancel it? Do I need to factor the % of risk into this truck? This is my first owning a domestic GM / Chevy. BTW, my truck only has 25,000 miles on her. Thanks in advance, Johnny

My truck is a 2018 Silverado, I've added towing mirrors with Phils custom cables and did the diode mod for the cargo light in reverse. I recently scheduled my truck for it's first oil change.I got to thinking, about mods and the effects on the factory warranty. Obviously I'm not going to remove the mirrors to take it in. but could easily pull the diode, Does any of this stuff void the warranty? Just curious what every one else's thoughts are on mods and warranty's?

I have a 2017 suburban bought about 18 months ago. I am looking to get the GMEPP plan added on to it. I remember reading that the price increased substantially after 2 years and either 20k or 24k miles. 2 questions: 1. Is it 20k or 24k miles that I should buy the plan before reaching? 2. Best places to buy it from?

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 10-15-2018 General Motors issued a press release today that claims GM is "breaking new ground" with regard to new vehicle warranties. GM is planning to offer a 5-year, 60K warranty on its GMC and Chevrolet models and a 6-year 70K warranty on its Buick and Cadillac models. These new warranties will be offered at an additional cost to the new car buyer at the time of purchase. GM's standard factory bumper-to-bumper limited warranty on Chevrolet and GMC products is 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first and for Buicks and Cadillacs, it is 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Ken Mac, director of Chevrolet, Buick, GMC, Cadillac Protection, commented on this new extended warranty product, saying, "If you drive a Chevrolet, you know that any GM-brand dealer will take care of warranty repairs without paperwork, deductibles or exclusions. The same goes for Cadillac, GMC and Buick owners. Now, we’re offering people the opportunity to increase the duration of their bumper-to-bumper warranty far out into the future". The thing we find weird about GM claiming that this breaks new ground is that Hyundai and Kia presently both offer a warranty as long as the GMC and Chevy extended warranty at no added cost. Volkswagen goes even farther and offers a bumper to bumper warranty of six years and 72,000 miles at no added cost. This one's a head-scratcher for us in the newsroom.

I have a 2016 silverado that is under warranty. This morning I made a hard left turn and I heard a dragging sound under truck. My Mud flap came off. Is this covered under manufacturers warranty?

Is anyone swapping out wheels and tires to stock when they go for warranty work? I have a new truck and want to put bigger tires on but don't want to deal with all of the bs from the dealer for the next 3 years. My plan was to have stock rims and tires for when I head to the dealer for any warranty issues and put bigger tires on for normal use? Going from 265/65/18 stock to 275/70/18 Talked with the local dealer and yes i understand they would have to prove it in writing. Just wondering if it is even worth the time and money? Thoughts?

So, yesterday afternoon, I jump in my tuck after running errands. service notice flashes says "service 4wd" I dis miss this, check my 4wd knob and its in AWD, where it stays unless I need 4wd. I go to back up and turn and its clear Im in 4wd. Cannot get it out of 4wd. Tried running through 2wd/4hi/4lo etc. nothing no shifting at all. I drive a lot so my truck is at about 54K (its a 2015, bought in 2015) and I have had no issue with it so far. great truck. no complaints. So, I drive into town today, call the dealership (who at first said they couldn't look at it till Tues- wed) they eventually say they can squeeze me in today around 2. Great! I think this is great. Still under warranty, if it has to be messed up better now then in 6k more miles right!- but wait. looking up their warranty the most likely culprits (wiring, tccm etc) aren't covered under warranty. Really. with so many others having this problem?... I can accelerate and drive it, turns are irritating. Seeing that there aren't any real "fixes" for this since 2014 not a good start to this week. Anyone find anything that seems to have stopped this action from reoccurring?

Hi Everyone, So my truck has been at the dealership two times officially now. This 3rd time I had my friend look over it and he said the truck was within GM's specs. I don't know what GM's specs for vibration are but my vibration is in the mid 70mph range and excessively vibrates and then smooths out. This is a constant cycle throughout my commute. I am going to pull my driveshaft and take it to a shop that specializes in driveshafts. I know several people have had their driveshafts replaced under warranty and it did not correct the issue. My thoughts are if your truck originally came with an out of spec driveshaft chances are there is a whole stockroom somewhere in the Parts Department that has out of spec driveshafts mixed in with the ones without issue, hence the reason some people have no luck with driveshaft replacement. I really feel this could be one of the major issues behind all of this especially when there is documentation instructing the technicians at the dealerships to use hose clamps to balance the driveshaft. I'm sorry but I don't see hose clamps as a permanent correction to this issue. I will update this post when I get the results from the driveshaft inspection. Please feel free to share your thoughts and bounce ideas around. Collectively I believe we can find an aftermarket fix for this issue, it may not 100% resolve the issue but will at least save people from taking huge losses on trade in (if you did not go through a buyback/lemon/customer satisfaction program). (A lot of people are trading in / selling their trucks because of this issue) ***UPDATE 01-22-2016*** I contacted the Team at Precision Shaft Technologies (http://pstds.com/) in Clearwater FL and they were able to squeeze me in as a walk in. (Not there normal protocol. They were super friendly, informative, and VERY helpful!) I drove up there and pulled the driveshaft in their parking lot. They then put the driveshaft on a machine and it was a near perfect balance. They added one small shim to the U joint to get it perfect but I'm sad to say the vibration is still present and there was no change. However, when I returned home I put my truck up on jack stands and ran it up to the speed I had issues at (per GM's service docs) and there was NO vibration. I was extremely confused at this point. I dumbed it down and looked at the rear wheels while the truck was in drive (idle speed) on the jack stands (be sure to block your front wheels and disable traction control / StabiliTrak if you plan on doing this on your own). I noticed my left rear wheel has a slight flat spot it in so much so that it's extremely difficult to notice. I have not had a chance to swap a known acceptable wheel to the rear at this time. When I do I will update this post. A recap for a description of my vibration: -72-74 MPH there is a cyclic vibration. Roughly every 7-8 seconds the truck has a vibration and then the vibration disappears.

First post here but wanted everyone to know before they too get screwed by their power train warranty. I have A 2015 gmc 1500 Denali 6.2 and have had transmission problems after about 10000 miles or so . I have taken it in and asked to have the transmission looked at with nothing but “can’t find a problem “ from service. I installed a k and n dry synthetic intake to my truck after about 15,000 miles(I have about 50k now). Took my truck in about 7months ago due to the transmission hitting hard throughout gears. When i take the car out of park into reverse there is a hard knock and a decent jolt. Sometimes when driving it and getting onto a freeway the gas pedal does not work then kicks in after a few seconds (pretty scary ). Another issue is if I give it gas in 4th or 5th it revs high then I feel like I and being rear ended and then the truck moves. This is crazy that this is happening. The dealership did a reprogramming of the transmission and 7 months I take it back they pull it apart and find pieces of the clutch in the bottom of the transmission pan. They call me today and tell me that the aftermarket CAI is the cause of the problem. They say the mass air flow censor is covered in oil from the air filters oil? My air filter is a dry synthetic filter just wash with water and air dry so I call their bullshit. They then call me back and say they looked into the filter I own and it is a dry filter and there was no oil on it. Wow wtf. They bullshit their way out of everything. Just wanted people to know when they have this problem be one step ahead of them and keep your stock air intake . It is absolutely absurd to say my clutch is coming apart in my transmission because of a aftermarket air intake. They are also not honoring the warranty and want me to pay $4480 for a new trans. This will probably be my last gm car ever.

I've researched the net. I've read several threads on this forum. There doesn't seem to be a definitive answer. I'm getting ready to purchase a new '16 Sierra 1500 and want to add a 2.25 Inch Pro Comp Leveling Kit and 305/55R20 Fuel wheels on it. If I install the lift myself, will it void the warranty? Do I have to have certified mechanics install it to keep the warranty? Any GMC Dealers or warranty specialists on here? Thanks for the input.

I just wanted to share my recent experience. My '16 had the occasional hard shift at low speeds, and the occasional weird shift in traffic, but it wasn't terrible...the last month or so it seemed to get a little worse, but wasn't crazy. I had a few warranty issues I needed to take care of, so when I tool it in, I asked them about checking the transmission program and see if anything needed to be updated or whatnot. I get my truck back later that day, and I kid you not, it drives better than it was brand new (granted it only has 25k miles) but even just in traffic and around town and slow speeds...I didn't think I had it bad, but that reprogram did wonders! My point of this is, that many of you probably already did this...BUT...i have heard and read tons of threads about the 8 speed and people hating it...I would recommend taking it to the dealer whether you think you have a significant problem or not just to see if you are due for a program upgrade. Mine didn't cost anything due to warranty, but before they changed it, I think it had like $98 beside it...I assume if you took it in just for a trans reprogram that would be close to the charge (but I'm not 100% sure). Anyway, good luck if you have some weird issues, my experience has been very positive with the 'upgrade'!