Search the Community

Anyone else with a new 2014 Sierra having an issue with the frame rusting and paint/wax flaking off? I have 3000 kms and it looks horrible. I also own a 2011 Canyon service truck with 105kms and the frame looks like new. So irriating as my Sierra is a beautiful truck aside

Hi...I'm new to this forum and hope you guys can help me with your experiences. My 2015 Silverado LTZ with 6.2l engine developed the dreaded bent pushrod at 26k miles. It's at the dealer now, has been since last Wednesday (it's Saturday now). I called them yesterday for an ETA on repairs and they told me that it could take several weeks due to a shortage of pushrods! They went on to say that GM had zero of them in stock, and there are only two dealers in the entire US that have one each, which are probably spoken for, for a customer's repair. Sounds like bullshit, but that's what they told me. It seems to me that they're still building these motors, so they should certainly have pushrods, and should make them available for warranty customers at least. The truck being my third vehicle, ordinarily the wait time would be irritating but tolerable, BUT I have vacation plans in less than two weeks that will involve pulling my 27' travel trailer for a thousand miles or so. I have deposits and reservations at a dozen RV parks, and we will be caravaning with friends. So, my question to you is: What remedies, if any, can I expect from GM under these circumstances? Is there anything in the warranty about taking a reasonable time for repairs? Can I expect a replacement vehicle for repair jobs of long duration? If there are no replacement vehicles, can I expect compensation for a rental? If none of these are available, can I sue to recapture the cost of renting a replacement tow vehicle?

I have a question I hope someone can help me with. I decided to try doing a burnout with my truck today for the first time. I did one for about 5-10 seconds, or tried to with some success. Now I have a check engine light and the truck runs like $h!t. Wont get up to highway speed and transmission doesnt shift properly. When at an idle it runs rough. I tried hooking the obd2 test tool to the truck under the dash, and two codes come up. P228c - fuel pressure regulator P0089 - fuel pressure regulator. I tried the erase button and it did nothing. I attached 3 notifications I received when this happened. I'm going to take the truck to dealership tomorrow. Any ideas on what this is? Will warranty be void since I was trying to do a burnout? Any help or thoughts on my situation is appreciated. Thanks

Lately my starter seemed to be dragging a bit after the truck sat overnight and fathers day morning it was totally dead so I had to call triple A since my portable jumper died a while back and I haven't replaced it yet. Before jumping he did a quick test that showed 12.6 volts but he said the battery couldn't take a load so most likely it was bad. I got the truck fathers day 3 years ago and figured there was nothing left to pro rate so I'd just buy a new battery. I did a search on the forum here to see what others were using and came across a thread where a member stated his battery went bad before the 3 year bumper to bumper warranty expired and he got it replaced under warranty without a pro rate. I thought just my luck my warranty has probably expired but after checking my paperwork I found I actually had 4 days left! I took the truck in and sure enough the battery only had 28% with a 750 amp load so they replaced it at no charge. The rest of the story on how I saved even more dough...on the way home I heard a clunk under the hood after hitting a bump and when I opened it I immediately saw the battery leaning over (probably should have checked before leaving but who screws up a simple battery install right?!?). A quick peep with my phone flashlight showed the tech failed to hook the bottom of the battery under the tabs on the tray before putting the clamp on as seen in the second picture so the battery was loose. I went back down to the dealership and the service writer said she would have someone fix it as soon as they could. I told her I didn't have time to wait but I was bringing it in for a service in a couple of days so they could fix it then. She asked if it was a paid service and I said yes to which she replied "your service will be on us to make up for your inconvenience!" I don't get too excited when stuff goes wrong rather I only care what someone does to fix it and have to give kudos to the dealership for their more than generous offer to make it better than right. I also want to give big thanks to whoever it was that posted about having their battery replaced for free since I would have spent over 300 bucks if I hadn't come across that post! Looks like it's time to find some more mods to do with the dough I saved!

Can anyone share some insights with getting the dealer to do the transmission flush on the 8 spd? I can't recreate the issue on demand but it tends to have really hard shifts when its cold, coming out of stop and go traffic, and going up hill. This morning I thought my rear end was going to fall out at the top of the hill but it hasn't done it for weeks. Just looking to avoid the "we can't detect anything wrong" problem.

Hi all, First post. Just wanted to share this story and get feedback and see if others have had a similar experience. At approximately 70,000 kms I started noticing an engine tick. At first I assumed it was some sort of direct injection noise. It got worse. Eventually I lost almost all power and I brought the truck in to the dealer for servicing. I was told that I had a bent push rod on cylinder #4. That was replaced and nothing else. I questioned why this happened and I was told it is common. At 85,000 kms the tick returned/got worse. Again I brought the truck to the dealer. Eventually (after a few arguments) they decided to replace valves/lifters on the 4 AFM cylinders, and they found another bent push rod. When I went to pick up the truck, the noise was still there. They completed further diagnostics and found scuffing on 2 pistons. They called GM and they said to replace the engine. Full engine replacement! Any thoughts, comments on this? I haven't got the truck back yet - waiting on engine to be replaced. Matt

Hi All, I am debating whether or not to cancel my extended warranty I purchased 2 1/2 years ago when I bought my 2016 Silverado LT new. Obviously, the warranty overlaps everything the manufacture is offering for the first 3 years, 36,000 miles etc. My ext warranty is 60 months (5 yrs), 100,000 miles. Covers everything Engine, Transmission/transaxcel, transfer case, electrical, Fuel, Interior, Exterior, steering, suspension, cooling, drive axle, brakes, AC/heating, and additional benefits like lockout, tow, rental coverage, trip interruption, gas supply and jump starts etc. The question is, I paid $2998 for it, but seeing that nearly I have 5 months left before my MFG warranty expires on the 3yr/36k, would it be worth it just to cut my losses now or keep it? I would get a little under half back, (roughly $1300-$1400). I know the warranty only "covers" 2 years, since the first 3 is all MFG. So essentially I'm paying $1500 a year for 2 yrs for this thing. I haven't had any "major" issue, which I am mainly concern about the transmission or engine just needing a replacement/rebuild that would cost in the THOUSANDS, the other parts I can do on my own and I'm pretty mechanically inclined and do my own auto repair. If it were you, would you cancel it? Do I need to factor the % of risk into this truck? This is my first owning a domestic GM / Chevy. BTW, my truck only has 25,000 miles on her. Thanks in advance, Johnny

My truck is a 2018 Silverado, I've added towing mirrors with Phils custom cables and did the diode mod for the cargo light in reverse. I recently scheduled my truck for it's first oil change.I got to thinking, about mods and the effects on the factory warranty. Obviously I'm not going to remove the mirrors to take it in. but could easily pull the diode, Does any of this stuff void the warranty? Just curious what every one else's thoughts are on mods and warranty's?

I have a 2017 suburban bought about 18 months ago. I am looking to get the GMEPP plan added on to it. I remember reading that the price increased substantially after 2 years and either 20k or 24k miles. 2 questions: 1. Is it 20k or 24k miles that I should buy the plan before reaching? 2. Best places to buy it from?

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 10-15-2018 General Motors issued a press release today that claims GM is "breaking new ground" with regard to new vehicle warranties. GM is planning to offer a 5-year, 60K warranty on its GMC and Chevrolet models and a 6-year 70K warranty on its Buick and Cadillac models. These new warranties will be offered at an additional cost to the new car buyer at the time of purchase. GM's standard factory bumper-to-bumper limited warranty on Chevrolet and GMC products is 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first and for Buicks and Cadillacs, it is 4 years or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Ken Mac, director of Chevrolet, Buick, GMC, Cadillac Protection, commented on this new extended warranty product, saying, "If you drive a Chevrolet, you know that any GM-brand dealer will take care of warranty repairs without paperwork, deductibles or exclusions. The same goes for Cadillac, GMC and Buick owners. Now, we’re offering people the opportunity to increase the duration of their bumper-to-bumper warranty far out into the future". The thing we find weird about GM claiming that this breaks new ground is that Hyundai and Kia presently both offer a warranty as long as the GMC and Chevy extended warranty at no added cost. Volkswagen goes even farther and offers a bumper to bumper warranty of six years and 72,000 miles at no added cost. This one's a head-scratcher for us in the newsroom.

I have a 2016 silverado that is under warranty. This morning I made a hard left turn and I heard a dragging sound under truck. My Mud flap came off. Is this covered under manufacturers warranty?

Is anyone swapping out wheels and tires to stock when they go for warranty work? I have a new truck and want to put bigger tires on but don't want to deal with all of the bs from the dealer for the next 3 years. My plan was to have stock rims and tires for when I head to the dealer for any warranty issues and put bigger tires on for normal use? Going from 265/65/18 stock to 275/70/18 Talked with the local dealer and yes i understand they would have to prove it in writing. Just wondering if it is even worth the time and money? Thoughts?

So, yesterday afternoon, I jump in my tuck after running errands. service notice flashes says "service 4wd" I dis miss this, check my 4wd knob and its in AWD, where it stays unless I need 4wd. I go to back up and turn and its clear Im in 4wd. Cannot get it out of 4wd. Tried running through 2wd/4hi/4lo etc. nothing no shifting at all. I drive a lot so my truck is at about 54K (its a 2015, bought in 2015) and I have had no issue with it so far. great truck. no complaints. So, I drive into town today, call the dealership (who at first said they couldn't look at it till Tues- wed) they eventually say they can squeeze me in today around 2. Great! I think this is great. Still under warranty, if it has to be messed up better now then in 6k more miles right!- but wait. looking up their warranty the most likely culprits (wiring, tccm etc) aren't covered under warranty. Really. with so many others having this problem?... I can accelerate and drive it, turns are irritating. Seeing that there aren't any real "fixes" for this since 2014 not a good start to this week. Anyone find anything that seems to have stopped this action from reoccurring?

Hi Everyone, So my truck has been at the dealership two times officially now. This 3rd time I had my friend look over it and he said the truck was within GM's specs. I don't know what GM's specs for vibration are but my vibration is in the mid 70mph range and excessively vibrates and then smooths out. This is a constant cycle throughout my commute. I am going to pull my driveshaft and take it to a shop that specializes in driveshafts. I know several people have had their driveshafts replaced under warranty and it did not correct the issue. My thoughts are if your truck originally came with an out of spec driveshaft chances are there is a whole stockroom somewhere in the Parts Department that has out of spec driveshafts mixed in with the ones without issue, hence the reason some people have no luck with driveshaft replacement. I really feel this could be one of the major issues behind all of this especially when there is documentation instructing the technicians at the dealerships to use hose clamps to balance the driveshaft. I'm sorry but I don't see hose clamps as a permanent correction to this issue. I will update this post when I get the results from the driveshaft inspection. Please feel free to share your thoughts and bounce ideas around. Collectively I believe we can find an aftermarket fix for this issue, it may not 100% resolve the issue but will at least save people from taking huge losses on trade in (if you did not go through a buyback/lemon/customer satisfaction program). (A lot of people are trading in / selling their trucks because of this issue) ***UPDATE 01-22-2016*** I contacted the Team at Precision Shaft Technologies (http://pstds.com/) in Clearwater FL and they were able to squeeze me in as a walk in. (Not there normal protocol. They were super friendly, informative, and VERY helpful!) I drove up there and pulled the driveshaft in their parking lot. They then put the driveshaft on a machine and it was a near perfect balance. They added one small shim to the U joint to get it perfect but I'm sad to say the vibration is still present and there was no change. However, when I returned home I put my truck up on jack stands and ran it up to the speed I had issues at (per GM's service docs) and there was NO vibration. I was extremely confused at this point. I dumbed it down and looked at the rear wheels while the truck was in drive (idle speed) on the jack stands (be sure to block your front wheels and disable traction control / StabiliTrak if you plan on doing this on your own). I noticed my left rear wheel has a slight flat spot it in so much so that it's extremely difficult to notice. I have not had a chance to swap a known acceptable wheel to the rear at this time. When I do I will update this post. A recap for a description of my vibration: -72-74 MPH there is a cyclic vibration. Roughly every 7-8 seconds the truck has a vibration and then the vibration disappears.

First post here but wanted everyone to know before they too get screwed by their power train warranty. I have A 2015 gmc 1500 Denali 6.2 and have had transmission problems after about 10000 miles or so . I have taken it in and asked to have the transmission looked at with nothing but “can’t find a problem “ from service. I installed a k and n dry synthetic intake to my truck after about 15,000 miles(I have about 50k now). Took my truck in about 7months ago due to the transmission hitting hard throughout gears. When i take the car out of park into reverse there is a hard knock and a decent jolt. Sometimes when driving it and getting onto a freeway the gas pedal does not work then kicks in after a few seconds (pretty scary ). Another issue is if I give it gas in 4th or 5th it revs high then I feel like I and being rear ended and then the truck moves. This is crazy that this is happening. The dealership did a reprogramming of the transmission and 7 months I take it back they pull it apart and find pieces of the clutch in the bottom of the transmission pan. They call me today and tell me that the aftermarket CAI is the cause of the problem. They say the mass air flow censor is covered in oil from the air filters oil? My air filter is a dry synthetic filter just wash with water and air dry so I call their bullshit. They then call me back and say they looked into the filter I own and it is a dry filter and there was no oil on it. Wow wtf. They bullshit their way out of everything. Just wanted people to know when they have this problem be one step ahead of them and keep your stock air intake . It is absolutely absurd to say my clutch is coming apart in my transmission because of a aftermarket air intake. They are also not honoring the warranty and want me to pay $4480 for a new trans. This will probably be my last gm car ever.

I've researched the net. I've read several threads on this forum. There doesn't seem to be a definitive answer. I'm getting ready to purchase a new '16 Sierra 1500 and want to add a 2.25 Inch Pro Comp Leveling Kit and 305/55R20 Fuel wheels on it. If I install the lift myself, will it void the warranty? Do I have to have certified mechanics install it to keep the warranty? Any GMC Dealers or warranty specialists on here? Thanks for the input.

I just wanted to share my recent experience. My '16 had the occasional hard shift at low speeds, and the occasional weird shift in traffic, but it wasn't terrible...the last month or so it seemed to get a little worse, but wasn't crazy. I had a few warranty issues I needed to take care of, so when I tool it in, I asked them about checking the transmission program and see if anything needed to be updated or whatnot. I get my truck back later that day, and I kid you not, it drives better than it was brand new (granted it only has 25k miles) but even just in traffic and around town and slow speeds...I didn't think I had it bad, but that reprogram did wonders! My point of this is, that many of you probably already did this...BUT...i have heard and read tons of threads about the 8 speed and people hating it...I would recommend taking it to the dealer whether you think you have a significant problem or not just to see if you are due for a program upgrade. Mine didn't cost anything due to warranty, but before they changed it, I think it had like $98 beside it...I assume if you took it in just for a trans reprogram that would be close to the charge (but I'm not 100% sure). Anyway, good luck if you have some weird issues, my experience has been very positive with the 'upgrade'!

Hey guys just bought a 2016 Silverado 1/2 ton and just have a few questions about the powertrain warranty and what will void it. Have about 8,000 miles on the truck installed cold air intake, exhaust and tires will be next. Want to level kit the front few inches but I am worried it will void the warranty. Any knowledge about this will be much appreciated

Taking my 2016 Silverado LTZ Z71 to the dealership this week. Any recommendation on issues to have them take a look at? I'm 6,000 miles away from hitting my 36,000 bumper-to-bumper warranty life.. thanks!

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 5-12-2017 General Motors has agreed to increase the warranty on certain vehicles' headlights for up to 12 years of 150,000 miles. This after the government investigated owner complaints about low-beams suddenly shutting off on certain GM models. The headlight control module is the issue and Tuesday GM instructed dealers to begin honoring the warranty on about 300,000 vehicles now in circulation. The models affected include some of the following vehicles (not all): 2006 to 2009 Chevrolet Trailblazers and GMC Envoys -2006 Buick Rainier, GMC Envoy XL, Chevrolet Trailblazer EXT -2006 and 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix -2006 to 2008 Buick LaCrosse. This is reportedly a full recall, not a TSB, and owners will be contacted if they own a vehicle covered. The Detroit News speculates there may be more recalls coming as a result of this issue. NHTSA has not yet added this issue to its running tally of monthly recalls, so we suggest calling your dealer if you feel you may have a vehicle in the included group of vehicles and want to check if a fix is available.

John Goreham Contributing Writer, GM-Trucks.com 8-15-2016 Nissan announced this morning that for 2017, its Titan and Titan HD trucks will come with a 5-year, 100,000 mile BUMPER TO BUMPER warranty. We read the press release three times. This is not just a drivetrain warranty. Nissan is saying that for fully 5-years and 100K miles it will warranty its Titan and Titan HDs for all repairs. Nissan says that this makes it the company with the best truck warranty in America. This warranty also means that Nissan has just given customers and business owners that drive a Nissan pickup what amounts to a fixed cost of ownership for five years. At 79K miles the whole dash quits - free repair. Alternator at 99K miles - free repair. Headlights stop working at 72K - free repair. Wheel bearings at 66K - free repair. A Nissan truck owner will only pay for routine maintenance for 5 years or 100K miles. Clearly this warranty is most beneficial to owners who put a lot of miles on their truck. With most drivers putting 15K on a vehicle, and many business drivers up to 25K, the new Nissan warranty is ahead of the competition. To make the warranty perfectly clear, Nissan offered the following bullet points: - 5-year/100,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranty beats competitors' standard protection programs by two years and 64,000 miles - Includes powertrain warranty – helping give Nissan full-size truck owners added trust and peace of mind - Covers all 2017 TITAN Endurance® V8 gas and 2017 TITAN XD Cummins® diesel and Endurance V8 gasoline-powered models - New limited warranty matches that of all models of Nissan Commercial Vehicles, including NV Cargo, NV Passenger and NV200

Will a programmer void a manufacturer warranty? If so, can you reset back to factory and would that be seen by the dealer? Thoughts anyone?

Does GM have any unpublished warranties on paint for 2003 trucks? I was cleaning the exterior windows tonight and noticed large areas of clear coat are missing / lifting off the top of the cab.

Hello all. I write this because I recently had my MyLink system stop working along with the speakers and light display on the steering wheel. This happens randomly one day. I was driving with the music on and the screen froze and the music stopped. When I reached my destination I turned the truck on and off and this time the screen worked no more. At night there is backlight illuminating the screen but the screen itself does not work. The only function it works in is the reverse camera. I was finally able to take it to the dealership and they are telling me the "resistors" (that's what they called them instead of diodes) is what caused the problem and now I am liable for the charges to get it fixed. Has anyone with this mod (low beam to fog lights) had any complications with their truck? Thank you very much for the responses. I own a 2014 Silverado LTZ

Has anyone had to claim anything warranty related to the power train while running a Black Bear tune? On my lists of things to do on my truck for this spring, is getting it tuned. I'm sick of how the transmission drives, and within the last month had to drive in a lot more traffic then normal. I just want to be confident that I can get at least 100k with the tune before something breaks.