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Brummie99

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About Brummie99

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Chris
  • Location
    Pensacola, FL
  • Drives
    2017 Silverado LT All-Star edition
  1. What’s your dash cam setup?

    The kit includes an in-line fuse and a 12v-5v converter direct to a mini-usb plug. Also included a fuse splitter which I didn't use. There is a spare terminal in the fuse box providing RAP (retained accessory power). I connected directly to that. Could have just got the usb kit without the fuse splitter but didn't know that when I ordered it.
  2. What’s your dash cam setup?

    I got a hard wire kit from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0GR4ON/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ran it to the drivers side fuse panel and connected so it only runs with ignition.
  3. Well the truck knows when to warn you they're low so it must be programmed in there somewhere.
  4. Not wise to remote start while it's in the garage. I tried to stop mine using the app while sat in it with the engine running. Wanted to see if it were possible if it were stolen but don't have the security feature through OnStar. The app threw an error saying "make sure the keys are not in the vehicle."
  5. Tried this last night... Didn't work. I suspect this is a diesel-only option. I had the same thing on my motorhome with a Cummins diesel. Activated the same way. I used it when cold, primarily to air up the suspension and brakes faster. Another possibility is that it only works under certain (cold) conditions. If the engine temp is below 65 degrees. In Florida, I'm not gonna see those conditions for at least a couple of months.
  6. I bought the Range a month ago. I feel it is smoother without the V4/V8 switching. I ran it for a couple of weeks, then took it off for a few days before reinstalling it. I don't see any noticeable loss in MPG. The only thing I have noticed is when coasting (slowing down), the instant MPG only goes to around 80MPG. Without the Range it would go to 99 consistently.
  7. Coded keys?

    Is it not covered by insurance? Depends on your deductible but I could easily see this running to $500 or more. You have the driver's door, ignition, tailgate and the spare tire lock. I haven't used a key to unlock a car in years. They all have had remote lock/unlock. Except the wife's Wrangler but we never lock that anyway as it would be easy to just slice through the top if someone really wanted in.
  8. Yes, I know that. I just don't think that is worth another $5/mo. I offered to pay them $2/mo ($11.99/mo total) but they weren't budging. Thinking about it, would be interested to know whether I could shut it down remotely from the mobile app. May try and test that (somewhere safe).
  9. I have just re-subscribed to the OnStar Protection plan. The 'normal' price is $19.99/month. I got it for $9.99/month. Actually pre-paid for a year and made sure they didn't keep my credit card on file so they can't hike it back up next year. It enables the automatic crash response which I hope to never use but like knowing it's there. Also enables the vehicle status and location options in the mobile app. I tried to get the security option as well but they wouldn't budge on $5/month for that (not worth it). It only adds stolen vehicle assistance. I can locate the vehicle from the app.
  10. Just push the OnStar button in the truck. When they answer, tell them you want to activate the 5-year basic plan. They will automatically give you 3 months of the full service and another 3 months for free if you give them your credit card. Just tell them you don't want the trial. The basic plan includes the remote app including remote start and remote lock/unlock. They changed earlier this year so if you bought your vehicle new after (I think) April 1st 2018, you only get 3 months free and then the remote app costs $15/month. Their top plan costs $60/month which is crazy. I would probably pay $10/mo for the protection and security package but no more.
  11. You should use high endurance cards. Regular SD cards are only rated for about 500 writes. In a dash-cam environment where it is repeatedly overwriting older recordings, that can kill the card in just a few weeks, particularly if recording 24/7. A high endurance card is rated for 2000+ writes. This is the one I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V5Q1N1I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. Dash Cams

    Agreed. But it's even easier when it's right there in the video.
  13. Dash Cams

    Hmmm... 83MPH... That's why I decided against the GPS logger. Don't want the evidence. I also considered the rear camera but wanted the UHD. Seeing your video, the UHD isn't a huge improvement but I would be able to read the license plates.
  14. Dash Cams

    I ran from the drivers side fuse panel up the A pillar over the head liner to the overhead console. This (from another poster) is where I tapped in.
  15. Dash Cams

    Something to think about with all dash cams that use SD cards is the life of the card. Standard cards are only rated for around 500 writes. My camera came with a 16GB card which at full resolution will hold about 1 hour of recording. That equates to about 20 days if running 24/7 before the card is spent. I upgraded to a 64GB high endurance card which is rated for 2000 writes. Even then it will only last about a year if running continuously. That's the main reason I don't run 24/7.
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