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Found 96 results

  1. I've got a 3500 that I'll be using to tow a 5th wheel later this year. Right now I'm in the market for mudflaps. I'm looking at the x-long Duraflaps that will sit about 14" below the fender in the rear (leaving me 6" from flap to ground), which is fine and dandy. However, i'm concerned about when I hook up a 5th wheel, how much that 6" will be decreased. Those of you who drive a 2500 or 3500 that tow a gooseneck or 5th wheel - about how much have you noticed the rear lowering? I know it depends on the weight of the trailer, but i'm looking for some ballpark numbers. I'd hate to buy these x-long flaps that end up being 2" off the ground after hooking up the camper.
  2. I'm sure this topic has been overplayed, but I have looked through many of the topics and still haven't had my question answered, so here goes. I have a 2014 CC Silverado with a Procharged 5.3 that has an Air Lift bag system with an onboard compressor. Clearly I have some use for this truck outside of mere daily driving. In fact, I tow a small fifth wheel on Florida's relatively flat roads (fully loaded @ 9k and 1,300 pin weight) about 7-8 times per year for local camping trips (less than 200 mi.). I have no complaints with the truck's performance in any way, but it is time to look at changing the brakes, and I would like to upgrade to a reasonably priced high-quality brake system geared towards a towing application. I have tentatively settled on a PowerStop Z36 4 wheel system and wonder if anyone has any experience with them who tows a "heavy" load such as I do. I appreciate any feedback, David
  3. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  4. I've towed my horse trailer with a 2003 Silverado, 2007 Silverado and 2011 Silverado with no issues. I purchased a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali and suddenly was receiving Check Trailer Wiring error messages, WITH dinging bells, over and over and over and over. Had trailer wiring checked, electrician said trailer was wired correctly the problem was 2015 wiring. Few months later, I acquired a 2015 Silverado. Same thing, Check Trailer Wiring, with dinging, over and over. Sometimes you go miles with nothing. Sometimes it starts when you pull out of the drive way. This does not happen when I use the smaller flat plug for my flat bed trailer. Only when using the larger round plug. Took to local mechanic and they could find nothing wrong with trailer or truck wiring. They thought it only happened when brakes were applied, but this is not true. They finally said they could not resolve the issue. The trailer then went to a trailer dealership, that sales the brand of trailer I have. Their initial checks on diagnostics showed no errors. I left, the dinging started, I went back. They rewired the trailer, replaced the brake box and have no idea what else to do. Picked up trailer today. Dinging took awhile, but eventually did start. They asked if I had the truck rewired by the dealership - no. Nothing. It's happening on two 2015 GM trucks. But has never happened in the 13 years I've owned the trailer. Help?
  5. Hey guys so I have a 2019 Silverado 1500LD with a 3.42 rear end with 11k on the clock. I've been noticing that my engine or coolant temp goes passed 210F but when it hits the next 1/8 gauge stick it goes back down passed the middle mark to 190°F. Is that normal for 7000 pounds uphill towing in 95°F weather. Talking about the 5N grapevine in Cali for those who know the climb.
  6. Hi guys, Over the winter i bought some 33"tires (275/60R20) to go along my 2016 Sierra Elevation.. this truck has a 5.3L and 3.42 gears ...during summer time i usually pull my TT that weights 6350lbs dry so knowing myself it is usually at 7500lbs full so lets make it 8000lbs for worst case scenarios ... I have a 6L-80 Trans 6 Speed ... So my question is; will it be that much of a power loss with the 33's on ... I mean this truck can pull 9200lbs as per the dealer specs .. but that is on the dealer tires i had last summer ...i didnt even think about the loss of power it may cause ... But i had so much of a deal on the BFG KO2 tires ... I couldnt pass on ... Now im uncertain of what i have done as the tires and installed on my rims and just waiting to bolted on ... Thanks for your help !
  7. My 2017 Denali rides rough when pulling my bumper pull camper and since it has Magna Ride shocks I can’t use most options. Torklift brand inserts between the leaf springs and the overload spring has been recommended as the solution but is expensive. Do any of you have experience with this method? It looks like a simple solution but I would hate to spend over $300 for something that won’t fix my problem.
  8. Does anyone on here have one of these dump trailers? I’m thinking of getting one for hauling mulch and gravel. I like that it has ramps and I could put my tractor on it. It’s around $3,600 which is about average for this size trailer. http://extremeroadandtrail.com/66108.php
  9. Hi guys, first time poster here. If I'm in the wrong section mods please let me know! About 2 weeks ago I bought a 2018 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4x4, used with 12k miles. It has the tow package. I absolutely love the truck, it's great, and other Chevy owners seem super nice so far! My Chevy has all the features of the tow package, including the chrome grille, trailer brake, pre-installed hitch, etc. but instead of the tow mirrors it has regular mirrors. Based on my research they are the "DL3" mirrors (heated, auto folding, etc.) but further research tells me that it should be pretty hard to install DL3 mirrors and make them fully functional if they didn't come on the truck since the wiring harness interacts with the memory functions of the seats etc... This makes me wonder where my tow mirrors went, and what's up with the OEM DL3 mirrors being there instead? Did the factory offer a towing package with regular mirrors at some point in order to "exhaust" their parts bin as they prepared for the 2019 Models, or did the previous owner really go to such extreme lengths to remove the tow mirrors? I've attached a picture to illustrate what I mean. Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys!
  10. I've already installed the load lifter 5000 air bags. My compressor came in today and will be installing it tomorrow morning. So far I can say I really like how the air bags mounted in the trail boss. I should have a short review tomorrow after the pump install as I'll be towing a 6000ib tractor for a quick job at my buddies house
  11. hey im new to the forum and wanted to know if there are any other towing mirrors available for a 2017 GMC Canyon other than clearview. Thanks!
  12. 2016 Chevy Silverado 4.3L V6 3.23 Reading through the manual: Max Trailer Weight 5,600 lbs, any other weights/limitations I should focus on ? Looking into installing Class 3 Trailer hitch, is a class 3 pretty standard, sufficient ? Im interested in 17-21' fiberglass center console in the future, any issues towing this type of boat (not knowing weight of boat / trailer etc )
  13. The wife and I are looking at getting a camper and decided to rent one to learn if we’d really be okay with the work and the towing. The camper we rented isn’t the same as we’re looking at, but it’s pretty close. The one we’re looking at is a little lighter. The trip was about 90 miles each way. It was nearly all interstate with some tighter back roads and about ¼-mile of dirt road in front of the house. I’ve put together a little outline about how things were configured/changed and what seemed to change from my perspective. The more astute readers may notice that we stopped at Walgreens and returned home twice. The first time was because my wife forgot to bring the anniversary cake. The second time was because she didn’t shut the garage. Annoying as they were, the stops gave me an opportunity to change the setup a bit. Truck: '15 Double Cab 4wd z71, 5.3L, 3.42 gears 9200 lbs tow capacity UWS toolbox: ~130 lbs with stuff (maybe) E-rated KO2s @ 55psi 2.25" Leveling Kit Trailer: '17 Cruiser RV MPG 2650RL 32' overall length Dry Weight: 5,705 Water tank ~ 400 lbs Propane & Battery: ~200? Food, clothes, other stuff.... Who knows. Didn't take the time to weight it all. Towing Trips: 1. Dealer -> Home A. Dealer tech set up WD-hitch with 1 chain link; massive squat B. I insisted on at least 2 links, still a good bit of squat C. Tech used 1-finger method to tighten the anti-sway brake D. Fresh water tank, propane tanks full Experience: Truck-trailer were a little bouncy and could feel the trailer exerting its influence on the truck a good bit. Impression: I'm nervous at this point. 2. Home -> Walgreens -> Home (max speed 45-50mph, backroads) A. 60lbs of firewood in the back of the bed B. Camper loaded with a 30lb box and 3-12pks DDP in back Experience: VERY bouncy, twitchy and somewhat unstable Impression: I'm getting very nervous about the bounciness and hoping it will settle out at speed. 3. Home -> Walgreens -> Home A. Moved firewood forward in the bed B. Moved heavy box and DDP forward to bedroom space Experience: Less bouncy (reasonable), still twitchy especially over bumps. Still feels like the trailer is able to take control if it decided to do so. Impression: Feeling a little better about it since the bounciness is significantly reduced. 4. Home -> Campsite Experience: On and off the TBC most of the time. Didn't go over 65 for more than a couple minutes (just experimenting). I was white-knuckling it most of the time. Passing trucks and other traffic pulled-pushed the camper around and at some points the steering got a little lighter than I've expected. Impression: I hated every minute of this. When we got there, I was ready to arrange for the dealer to pick it up at the end of the trip. I settled down a bit over the course of the week and did more research on how to set it up. 5. Campsite-> Home A. Only 5-6lbs of firewood left (if that) B. Moved the 2 bicycles to truck bed (~40lbs) C. Fresh water tank still basically full. Obviously, less of most everything else. D. Put Trailer on hitch without WD-bars. Got about 3/4" front-end lift. I put the wd-hitch on 3 links and got it about 1/2" back down. It was quite difficult to get the chain on and there was clearly a lot of spring tension in play. E. Tightened the anti-sway bar using my full-hand to the point where it just stopped and then 3/4-turn more Experience: Truck drove well. I had a near constant low-amplitude oscillation, but nothing as intense as the bouncing before. Absolutely no sway that I could identify even when trucks passed. I did notice that on broad curves like some off-ramps, that the trailer didn’t follow the curve like it should, but was kinda dragging sideways. I assumed the sway-bar was too stiff. Impression: It was a comfortable, easy experience. I can live with this. 6. Home -> Dealer (rain) A. Left WD-hitch at 3 links B. Loosened the anti-sway bar to hand-stopping point and 1/4 turn (per some video my wife found online) C. Camper empty (fresh water still full) D. Truck basically empty Experience: Everything felt "off" again. The bouncing was back... It wasn't as bad, but it was there. The sway when passed was back too. The rain added a new variable and I used 4wd (auto) for a couple of miles to make sure I could pull out safely and it worked well. The trip over the bridge during the storm was a bit hair-raising. I'm not sure if it was because of wind or the fact that people still went 80, but I couldn't get comfortable with it over 50 going up and 65 going down. Impression: I think the sway bar was too loose and maybe I had too much weight-distribution... I have no idea. I’ve been looking into things I might buy/change… I think I’d always use at least 3 links on the WD-hitch I think I’d keep the sway bar tight and let the tires take the beating on gentle curves I was looking at sumo springs or the roadmaster kit to help with the ride/squat issues. To add a new wrinkle, I have a coworker who has a similar sized trailer and until a few months ago the same truck as me. He just got a real purty 2500 for retirement. Anyway, he said that he uses 4 links on his hitch and doesn’t really remember how tight he makes the anti-sway bar. He said it towed well, but he just decided that staying off the interstates was an easy solution to most of the towing issues. You go slower and have less “aggressive” traffic. At any rate, all this is new to me. So, I look forward to anything you more experienced folks can share.
  14. I have a 2007 Sierra 2500HD (K2500) Duramax. After the 'Service Trailer Brake System' DIC message appeared I changed the Controller and checked both fuses. The message persists. I am not able to find the ITBC on any of the schematics I have and not on the internet, either. Does anyone have one or can you point me to one?
  15. I have a 2017 Silverado CC LTZ 4x4. When towing my trailer with 900lbs of tongue weight I sag roughly 3.5 inches. Will Sumosprings help reduce the sag? If so, there is a 1000lbs or 1500lbs capacity. Any recommendations or even better, I would like to read your experience with photos... Experienced the Timbrens and while they manage the sag/squat they are really rough when driving with out a load. Can really feel and hear the impact with 1.5" of clearance. I currently use 1000 lbs Blu Ox WDH and it helps reduce the sag/squat by 1".
  16. I'm a new owner of a 2018 GMC Sierra 5.3 with 8 speed transmission and I have my first tow coming up with my travel trailer. It was recently suggested to me that when towing I should start off in manual mode 6 and then go to 7 on highway with the tow/haul mode on as well. He stated i'll be impressed with the towing abilities with this setup. I'm sure there are other topics started on this same question, but rather than searching I wanted to get input from everyone here. So give it to me and let me know your thoughts about towing with this configuration. Thanks in advance for your feedback!
  17. I recently upgraded my 16 1500 to a 3500HD I have a top quality Weight Distribution Hitch that made my 1500 LTZ set level towing a 9k lb RV.... I paid 450.00 for it installed will sell for 200.00 plus postage. Kinda heavy so not sure what that would be. This is the chainless type very clean and easy hook up. Pick up in Dayton, Ohio might be best if your close. Thx Dodge Stomper
  18. hey yall, been a while. I have a message that's been coming up in my cluster display saying service trailer brakes... uh no trailer on atm . so I pulled the trailer plug out, inspected for corroision, none found, check for shorts in the 7 pin connector itself no problems, I have continuity through all the 7 pins and the associated 4 pins below, only fault in the trailer brake module was for voltage to low from by battery being dead this morning. im thinking the battery died because of the trailer brake faults. it usually after it rains and then the sun comes out, but this morning was the first time my battery died, anyone else have a problem like this. anyone have a good wiring diagram for modules to the plug on the bumper?
  19. Hey guys just wanted to say that I really appreciate all the help from this community. I have recently made a couple posts and got a lot of great advice. I was deciding whether or not I should go through all the maintenance on my truck or trade it in, with the help of this community I have decided to keep the truck. Anyway one of my biggest concerns is the ride quality of my truck. I recently went from the following tires (link) to a pair of Michelins that I am not even sure how to describe. I was talked into putting them on my truck at Costco. My truck has rode terrible ever since then, I am sort of avoiding driving it now and hate that. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055BPSGK/?coliid=I3L4IPRVNULZ1P&colid=1GQFQXGWZEWEY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I took it to a certified Goodyear dealer today and he said they were all terrain tires and designed for the road. You will be able to see this is true from the pictures that I am about to post. They look more like "highway" tires than the previous ones I had from the link provided. So my door recommends that I run 35 PSI in the tires and right now they have around 40 PSI if I am not mistaken. That might have a lot to do with it. However, my tire pressure sensors are already telling me to check them and believe that they are probably have at least 37 PSI in them. The following link I found will show you what they are. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Defender+LTX+M%2FS So I know there is a way to program the location of the sensors, but can I program them for a different PSI reading? Also what why would these top of the line tires be riding much rougher than the previous linked ones? As always and advice is greatly appreciated gentleman!
  20. Hello How it going? I wanted post and ask some questions as along the way and see if I am crazy enough to upgrade and discuss about modifying a stock GMC 2016 4x4 2500HD 6.0L Gas suspension system. The truck needed a nice smooth riding stability control system on it's suspension system and along it needed to takes more weight load carrying capacity controls from major loads when towing big loads from over hauling trailers. Plus even on it's no-loads capacity as well when you need to drive on a everyday needs in all conditions from all driving ability and keep safe from going out of control from all major issues on the roads conditions on a stock 2500HD/3500HD, I can tell things are getting out of control as conditions are getting worsts beyond our controls when dealing with a stock HD trucks suspension system on a bad roads conditions. Anyway I wanted to upgrade this truck to improve the truck without spending to much money but enough for the truck to drive better than possible so here some ideas and list of parts of modifications that I have studied and thought about thought I post something asked and shared and discuss as asking some ideas for some upgrades. Thanks for helping guys as I need some helps. So far I already installed a rear Hellwig Big Wig Sway bar the model # is 7270 and have it on the medium setting on the links holes for the sway bars as it on the #2 holes. The center hole is considered is medium setting. The far out as #1 hole is the lose setting and far back to the axle #3 hole is tighter setting for the sway bar settings. And I have to say I already feel a huge improvements to the rear suspension by adding a rear sway bar. I can tell by it does prevents the waving as rocking side to side when driving into a drive ways or pulling into a intersections or running over pot holes or curbs or jumping over a railways or hills and some major improvements on things like those quadruple humps and ripples as dips on the road that make your whole truck shake everywhere and wobbling back and forth from going over on those melted asphalt from the roads and highways as it swerves out of control at a high speed and including hauling something that makes it bounce everywhere even to lose control on a empty bed. Plus the improvements over driving into by turning fast and pilling out or in front of the traffic as keeping the truck lock down on the road to pull in and it enforce it from leaning over, keeping the truck from waving over as swerving out of control from rocking by it side. And the sway bar does improve towing. It help you to control your trailer from losing out of control from a dodge moments on cars and winds and other moments to prevent your trailer from wobbling on a highways. Keep the back end stable as twisting the roll body of the truck especially pillingout on a burn out. it been been lot of flooding in Texas lately and I need to spray paint it black and painted the u bolts as well as keeping it from rusting including the axle drive staff joint. Rust is a disease to metal. I only have this 3 months of use of this Hellwig and this truck has 9,786 miles on it. Now the questions is do I needed to go ahead and buy the front sway bar? And put a bigger heavier duty links as well that hooks on to the front sway bars? I don't know what size the is the original stock front sway bars as in inches from as American scale, so far, I founded out the size it is 1.250 of a inch? Is that 1 inch and 3/8 in size? or is that 1 and half of a inch? And the links that came with the truck looks little poor. Looks like it needed to be on a 1500 models trucks and asking for a bigger set of links to control the front of the sway bars on the 2500HD front end suspension. But anyway the Hellwig has a 1 and 1/2 of a inch in thickness of the sway bar and if the the truck stock sway bars is the same size then I don't need to get it it be a waste of money by having the same size bars. I don't know if that make anything big of a different but maybe it will in tightness of a sway bars as for front suspension system if it little bigger right? Anyway here are the list of the modifications upgrades for the suspension system packages that are listed for a smooth ride with major medium payloads capability. Feel free to post some idea of some more modifications suspension system for a stock GMC /Chevy 4x4 2500HD / 3500HD 2014 to 2019. Hellwig Rear Sway Bar 7270.......Weight: 8,000lbs Hellwig Front Sway Bar 7716......Weight: 5,000lbs Hellwig Leaf Helper Springs Stabilizer LP-3512.....Weight: 3500lbs Leaf Spring Shocks Absorbed Sulastic Shackle For Axle SA-06...Non-affect load carrying capacity BDS NX2 Single Steering Stabilizer with Mounting Bracket Kit.....Get Boot Cover Protection PPE Stage 3 Tie Rod Assemblies #158031511.....Has Larger Ball Joints and Staff SuperSpring Front Sumo Spring SSF-202-54......Weight: 2000lbs SuperSpring Rear Sumo Spring SSR-203-40-2....Weight: 2600lbs Max at 80% 3000lbs G2 GM 10.5" 14 Bolt Rear Brute Ball Milled Aluminum Differential Axle Cover.....Amsoil 95W-140 Gear Oil Fox Shocks 2.5 Reservoir Front and Rear. These are my upgrades for a medium high performance stabilizer for the truck suspension system modifications. As for tires and rims I would love to have a 20 inch rims with 285/65/20 tires Or 18 inch rims with 285/70/18 tires one day. This should improves the overalls of the trucks capability right? Dream engine on this truck is LS1 427 32V 6.2L 25MPG on this 2500HD 4.10 gear ratio with the twin as y air filter intake system with dual exhaust .... Goals <3.. I wish I could afford this and to put a 8 speed tranny on it.
  21. Morning, I am trying to make an educated decision concerning buying a new truck. I am looking at a 2500-3500 Silverado 2017-18... I was sold on the 6.6 Diesel but to be honest the price is holding me back. I have found a few deals and this months incentives are fabulous. BUT that is not the question. The question is I'd like to hear from owners who have the 6.0 Gas version and the 6.6 Diesel. How do your trucks preform? Mainly the Gas because I have no doubt the Diesel is a Beast. But with a 10k higher price.... and about .40c a gallon more for fuel plus Def.... and Maint. What type of mileage are you Gas owners getting under towing conditions? I will be towing about 13k loaded. Even though not near as powerful does the 6.0 give good overall performance to your needs? Longevity? Thanks I really appreciate actual owners thoughts and experiences. DS Keith M SW Ohio
  22. I'm not sure if anyone has discussed this particular scenario, I've poured through a number of different regear posts but I haven't found anything that really answers my question. I have a '14 Silverado DC z71 I purchased in 2015 used. I got a great deal on it, only 19,000miles and looked like it had never been driven. The dealer I got it from I had known years ago, his wife used to teach me horseback riding lessons when I was a kid. He told me the truck was 3.42 as well as another guy Arbizo the dealership. It took me too long to realize it's actually 3.08 so I'm basically stuck with it. I love the truck and it tows my ~6000lb horse trailer fine but I'm looking to Regear. I just don't love how it handles some of the hills and back roads I drive with the trailer. It always makes t but I feel like it's working too hard and I want it to last a while without needing a new tranny etc. I don't plan to lift it or add bigger tires or anything like that. All I'm looking for is improved towing (I know changing my gears won't Change my tow rating I'm not looking to tow anymore I'm just looking to improve towing performance for what I tow now within the trucks capabilities). My question is should I upgrade to 3.42 or if I'm going through the trouble am I better off just going to 3.73? How will 3.73 effect my gas mileage vs 3.08? I know it's a truck and I'm not looking for crazy mileage but don't want to be going to the gas station every other day since it's my daily driver also.
  23. Hey guys its been a while since I have been on the forum but I need some help. As the tittle states I need some help upgrading my truck for towing. I am NOT looking to increase its tow rating to get a bigger trailer, I am looking on mods to make it easier on my truck. I am getting a travel trailer to live in full time due to moving all the time for work, it is more economical for me to pay for an RV spot and the trailer over leasing apartments/houses for short term and then having to cancel contracts and move all my stuff. The trailer I am looking at is a solid 7500lbs GVWR at 32'ft bumper pull. I have a 2016 GMC Sierra crew cab short box 5.3L with 3.42gears and the "standard" tow package without the brake controller. Big note that I do have a 4" BDS lift with blocks in the rear and 35x12.5x20 toyo R/Ts I am already looking at fitting tow mirrors and an after market brake controller, but aside from re gearing the truck what are some good options? Things that come to mind are like an auxiliary transmission cooler to help since I do have 35s, helper bags in the rear to cope with the droop.....what else could be added to just make the truck tow "easier"...............and no superchargers..wifey would NOT be happy thanks guys
  24. GM/Chevrolets claimed tow rating doesn't add up when crunching the numbers between the 4.3 V6 3.42 model vs the 5.3 V8 3.08 model (2014-2018). Look at the last two columns in the below chart for torque (ft./lbs.) coming out the differential towards the wheels. (These numbers do NOT account for drive train loss, at the wheel ratio changes due to various tire sizes, and the engine torque was taken as published (383 for 5.3 and 303 for 4.3 V6). The ROWS are gears 1 (top) through 6 (bottom). The formula used was: Step 1) Transmission gear ratio multiplied by Rear end gear ratio = Final Drive Ratio. Step 2) Final Drive Ratio multiplied by engine torque = TORQUE coming out of the differential to the wheels. Torque coming out of the differential and to the wheels what gives a vehicle its POWER to pull and move weight. The 5.3 with 3.08 BEATS (MORE POWER) the 4.3 with 3.42 in EVERY GEAR I understand there is more to ratings for tow capacity than just pulling power, however the 5.3 and 4.3 share the same frame, suspension, 6 speed transmission, etc. which means the only variable between the two models is the engine. Since the 5.3 with the 3.08 rear end CLEARLY has MORE torque going to the wheels than the 4.3 with the 3.42 rear end how does Chevy/GMC claim that the V6 model can tow more? The only thing I can think of is MAYBE the 4.3 runs cooler than the 5.3 so the engine is capable of sustaining high RPMs for a longer period of time...
  25. John Goreham Staff Writer 8-2-18 The all-new Silverado has so many improvements and updates they are hard to grasp in a single overview. In this spotlight, we will focus on what Chevy has done to make towing easier and more practical for its 2019 Silverado owners. To suit a wide range of owners’ needs, Chevy is offering four distinct levels of trailering capability so owners can buy what they’ll use. The Silverado has three major towing technologies that are added to the already very capable truck. First up is the Hitch Guidance with Hitch View. This adds a dynamic backing guideline to the Rear Vision Camera system to help drivers line up the hitch. It adds precision and a visual cue to make aligning a hitch to a trailer a bit easier. Next up is the Advanced Trailering System. This system itself incorporates three components. First, Auto Parking Brake Assist. This eliminates that annoying bit of movement that you get once you perfectly line up your trailer and then put the truck in Park. It sets automatically when the vehicle is put into Hitch View to help avoid vehicle movement. The third new technology is Chevy’s Trailer Tire Pressure Monitoring System. Before we get too far, you’re going to need some added equipment on your trailer that Chevy can provide. However, if you get it, this feature can monitor the tire pressure and temperature of the trailer tires using the truck’s infotainment system to help prevent blowouts from overheating and low tire pressures. If you like your phone as a tool then you will also like Chevy’s Advanced Trailering System Infotainment app and myChevrolet app. The latter has some simple trailering features such as pre-departure step-by-step towing checklists and a glossary of towing terms. It also allows a solo driver to conduct a trailer light test using an automatic exterior light sequence to help confirm that the trailer is properly connected. The Advanced Trailering System app allows customers to track their miles, fuel economy and transmission temperature of their truck while towing. Brake gain memory is also part of this system and works with the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, which provides fingertip control of the trailer brakes, to let the customer set and save the controller’s brake gain setting. Last, Trailer Theft Alert can activate the truck’s lights and horn if the harness of the trailer attached to the truck is disconnected. This works with your OnStar Safety & Security Plan and will send you a theft alert via phone, text or email. Chevy’s Trailer Camera Package can use up to four cameras to enable a driver to see a 270-degree view. To take the guess work out of capabilities, Chevy’s new Trailering label is located on the driver’s side door jamb of all 2019 Silverados. The label provides owners with the information they need to calculate before setting out with a trailer. This label takes the guesswork out of towing and hauling and provides information such as: Gross vehicle weight rating Gross combined weight rating Gross axle weight rating (rear) Maximum payload Maximum tongue weight Curb weight The folks at Chevy conducted a survey before designing the new 2019 Silverado. A majority of interested buyers, 60%, said that towing was one of their top priorities in a new truck. We’re one of those interested buyers and our new 2019 Silverado is on order with all of this technology. We look forward to doing a full review once our new GM-Trucks.com Silverado arrives.
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