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Found 20 results

  1. Hello Everyone, I wanted to start this thread as a continuation from my DL8 to DL3 Mirror Conversion here. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/190736-2016-silverado-lt-dl8-to-dl3-mirror-conversion-finally-complete-3/page-1 Based on the 6 months of research in the above thread, feedback from many of the members here, and observing behavior of other member's experience... I am now able to officially offer a Plug and Play Harness Solution for those that want to upgrade their Standard DL8 Mirrors to the DL3 Mirrors on their 2014* - 2017 Silverado/Sierra Trucks (LT/SLE Trims). DL8 Mirrors - Power Adjust, Manual Fold, and Heated DL3 Mirrors - Power Adjust, Power Fold, Heated, Auto Dim (Driver's Side), Turn Signal and Puddle Lamps This has been tested on the following models: 2014* - Silverado/Sierra LT/SLE - 1500* (Known issue with Puddle Lamps - Diode mod workaround required) 2015 - 2017 Silverado/Sierra LT/SLE Please see Vehicle Acceptability for Retrofit Document Here. Keep in mind that this document is intended for Towing Mirrors, but based on feedback, they seem to follow similar acceptability requirements. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q4eldhgg2x8i10q/Camper%20Mirrors%20-%2023371780.pdf?dl=0 There might be additional wiring needed for other trucks. If you decide to purchase the harness anyway, I can assist as much as I can. However, there is no guarantee that it'll work without BCM/Memory Module Calibration (and if that's even possible), or additional wiring for missing circuits in the inline door hinge connector. Also, if you are outside of the compatibility requirements, I would need some additional information/photos of your truck connectors to determine if this harness will work or not. The Plug and Play Harness will be pinned for the following functionality. Turn Signal Puddle Lamps Power Fold*** Auto Dim (Driver's Side)**** ***For Power Fold, you will need a new Mirror Adjust/Power Fold Switch - Part # 23154702. ****For Auto Dim (Driver's Side) - You will need to add a Auto Dim Rear View Mirror AND run the additional (4) Circuits needed to the X51L Fuse Panel and X61A Junction Box. Please see thread here for details. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192050-a10-inside-rearview-auto-dimming-mirror-conversion-dd8/?hl=a10+mirror The Harness Set for both Driver and Passenger is $225 Shipped (lower 48) via PayPal (as Family and Friends). I ship USPS Priority Mail 2-3 Day Shipping. Once you receive the Harnesses, Install, Test, and Confirm all is operational, you have the option of shipping me your Stock DL8 Harness for a $40 Core Refund.
  2. Hello Everyone. I wanted to start this thread with saying that I am new to this forum and new to the Silverado Truck. I have owned many Tahoes & Suburbans in the last 15 years. This is my 1st Silverado. My truck is a 2016 Silverado 1500 LT - Crew Cab. Came with the standard DL8 Mirrors. Power Adjust and Heated. Had I known the differences between trim levels, I would have gone with the LTZ Model. Lesson Learned. Like those that have this trim level, I wanted to convert from DL8 to DL3 Mirror with Turn Signal and Power Fold. I found a set on eBay that came with the harnesses that were take offs from a 2015 Silverado Duramax 2500HD. I bit the bullet and bought them. Like everyone who has tried this - I ended up with the same results. Installed new mirrors, harnesses, and switch. The only thing that worked were Turn Signals and Puddle Lamps for both mirrors. I was only able to get up/down adjust on the driver's side, no control on the passenger side whatsoever, no power fold functionality. I spent the last two weeks reading up on the GMUpfitter Manual trying to understand why. After seeing the various connectors for the Mirror, Door Trim, and Door Hinge Connections, I realized why things didn't work. Like others, I realized that this was NOT a plug and play scenario. However, after spending the time, I was FINALLY able to get this conversion done. I have functional DL3 Mirrors on both Driver and Passenger sides. I have Turn Signals, Puddle Lamp, Power Adjust, Power Fold, and Heated. All using the Factory Switch. I don't have Auto Dimming (which is dependent on a circuit that is tied to the Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror that i don't have) and Reverse Tilt (from what I've read, requires BCM Programming to have that option in the DIC). I also don't have Power Fold when locked/unlocked with the Key Fob (also think this may be a BCM program option). I ended up doing a Connector - Cross Reference Sheet to compare what pins/wires were missing from each connector, for each door, between the new harness and the original harness. I quickly learned that the new harness had more pins loaded than the original harness. Since the new harness had the most pins loaded, I wanted to continue with the new harness, and use my original harness as the "donor" harness to acquire the missing wires/pins from. Some of these connections will require a splice. This process requires no wires going through door hinge and no BCM programming. There are (3) Connectors from the Driver's Side and the same (3) Connectors from the Passenger Side that you will need to focus on. Driver Side Connectors - X500, X505, X510 Passenger Side Connectors - X600, X605, X610 Pages 1521 - 1548 in the GM Upfitter Manual shows the detailed pin out and circuits for references. In my cross reference sheet, I include the part #'s that I have for both existing harnesses and the new harnesses. You will also see the missing pins from each harness, each connector. The new bezel switch part # is 23154702. After checking all the pins that I had loaded on the new harnesses, I came to the realization that these DL3 Mirrors came off of a truck that also have the Seat Memory Switch. A couple of the circuits are dependent of the Seat Memory Switch which would explain some of the different options on the pin out. i went down the road of thinking I could add the Seat Memory Switch and gain additional functionality. The problem is - The door trim panel connector doesn't have all the pins for the Seat Memory Switch to function. OK - So now I've concluded that I cannot have Seat Memory functionality without a new door trim harness connector (that only seems to come with a new door panel w/memory package). I wasn't looking at spending $400 for a new panel. I want to say that the most painful part in this whole process, was harvesting the missing wires/pins that I needed to load onto the new harness without damaging them. Also, when inserting the wires/pins into the new harness, you have to be ABSOLUTELY sure you are inserting it into the right pin and the right circuit. Once you insert it, you CANNOT remove it (unless you have the right pin removal tool) or cut it. I meticulously labeled EVERYTHING to avoid this confusion and wanted this to be as Factory as possible. Once I removed the wires/pin, I starting losing track of what they were, where they go, and where they came from. I labeled each end. Once I started cutting into the existing harness, I was at a point of no return. Please do this at your own risk! Here is the Cross Reference Connector Sheet I made to show all the connections. Connector Reference.pdf Here are some photos of the process: After I was all through, I rewrapped the harness with "friction tape" bought from Home Depot. It is the same tape that was used on the harness. If you have any questions, please let me know. Please note that while pins/wires were missing on one end of a connector, there were already loaded on the other end. Due to the "options" of the Seat Memory switch, some wires went to different places that ended up getting "abandoned" since I chose not to go the Seat Memory route. I had to splice into existing pins/wires that were already loaded due to this. Good Luck! Hope this helps those who have tried or are trying to get this done! It IS possible, just requires some work and patience. Side_by_side by pgamboa, on Flickr IMG_4482 by pgamboa, on Flickr IMG_4481 by pgamboa, on Flickr Wires-Pins_Labeled by pgamboa, on Flickr Wires-Pins_Inserted_labeled_3 by pgamboa, on Flickr Wires-Pins_Inserted_labeled_2 by pgamboa, on Flickr Spliced_Butt_Splice by pgamboa, on Flickr Spliced_Heat_Shrink by pgamboa, on Flickr IMG_4524 by pgamboa, on Flickr Connector Reference.pdf Connector Reference.pdf Connector Reference.pdf
  3. Hi guys, hopefully someone out there in GM world can help me. I'm installing an aftermarket running board lights which has courtesy lights and turn signal lights. I looked every where to get some concrete answer where i can tap into the OEM parking lights wire, courtesy light wire, and turn signal wire. Now, I realize i can run them into the hood and into each headlamp but I much rather keep the connections neat inside the cab. I looked at the GMUPFitter manual and quite honestly it might as well be in chinese to me. If any one has any info with pictures broken down Barney style I would appreciate it. Also if you recommend not tapping into any wire coming from the BCM then where would be the best place to tap into? Thanks in advance to everyone who is willing to help! @pgamboa any suggestions?
  4. I have a 2015 GMC Yukon with condensation in the right and left front headlight assemblies. My turn indicator stopped working which usually indicates a burned out bulb. I did not notice the condensation and I took my Yukon to the dealership for what I thought was going to be a simple bulb replacement. The headlight assemblies are completely sealed which requires the replacement of the complete lamp assembly if a bulb filament burns out. The dealership told me the bulb malfunction is likely caused by the condensation. Since my visit to the dealership yesterday, the turn indicator has worked intermittently. A call back to the dealership with the update and the response was that the condensation likely caused corrosion and still needed to be replaced. They advised me the other headlight was likely to malfunction as well. It is obviously an ongoing issue since the technical service bulletin was modified to include 2016-17 models. GMs technical service bulletin notes that if certain conditions are noted (such as in my case), the replacement of the lamp assembly may not correct this condition. The condensation covers the entire lens. I live in Florida and there is little temperature differential and we have mid to high humidity most of the time. The dealership quoted me $1256 for parts and labor to replace the headlight assembly PER SIDE. Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf Tech Service Bulletin.pdf
  5. I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package. It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood. My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working. I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17). I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power. The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing. I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing. Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box? Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
  6. The first issue is the puddle/domelight's. I first noticed the issue when the puddle lights were flickering when the unlock button was pushed or the door was opened. Also, the interior dome lights would not come on when the door was opened. I've pushed the overhead switch to the on position and sometimes they would flash on quickly and shut off, but most of the time not come on at all. The dome lights come on when the individual buttons are pushed, but not at all with the overhead switch. Anyone know where the fuse is that controls the overhead switch? My second issue is with the left turn signal. On the DIC I got a turn indicator failure for the left rear. The indications are with the blinker activation, the mirror/dash blinker lights will flash normal for about three seconds and then pulse quickly, followed by DIC message. *edit* Brake lights (left) also done activate. My first action was replacing the bulbs, however that did not fix the problem. When I returned home, I troubleshot the bulbs by placing the lighting switch from auto to running lights and the lights came on, so I know the bulbs harness and wiring are working perfectly fine. I have checked the fuses in the engine compartment, number 14 I believe which is labeled trailer stop/left turn I believe. Any ideas on this issue? I would like to troubleshoot the issues prior to taking it to the dealer under warranty 30 mins away.
  7. I have a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 5.7. I removed the top dash piece today in order to replace the climate control unit. Seemed simple enough (I only had to disconnect the 2 wire harnesses from the dash cover). Replaced everything, cranked it, and noticed the blinkers were stuck on and the wipers wouldn't work. Pressed the hazard light button and the left blinker stayed on. Pressed it a couple more times and the blinkers eventually went off. This is when I noticed that the gear indicator light was also not working. These don't have anything to do with either wire harness that I disconnected, nor the HVAC control unit I replaced. What could cause these 2 issues to happen at the same time? I can understand that by some strange twist of fate the turn signal module died at the time of replacing the HVAC unit, but the gear indicator light too? Anyway, I've checked all fuses/relays and everything seems to be fine. Any ideas?
  8. These are a take off from my 2014 GMC Sierra SLT. They are the premium, fully functional mirrors: power fold, puddle light, turn signal, heated, memory, etc.. I have 50k miles on the truck. The mirrors are in excellent shape. I will add several photos close up photos when the sun is out tomorrow. I am only taking them off as I bought a travel trailer and I am swapping them for tow mirrors. Will trade for fully functional tow mirrors, e.g. A1 or OEM GM. These are ~$500 each to buy from the dealer new. Price is $450 for both. Buyer pays shipping. Thanks, Nate
  9. Hi, I'm installing two side view cameras on my 2017 3500 duramax. I require a trigger from my left and right indicator circuits and was wondering where to tap in to the existing circuitry. The BCM (body control module) has two inputs (pin 12 X3, pin 24 X3) that appear to be relevant. Can I simply tap into each of these or is there a better place? Am I correct in understanding that the turn signals from the S78 switch pull the BCM inputs low (e.g., they apply ground to the BCM) in which case the trigger will be low as opposed to high? Is it 12v when the turn signal is not active? Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi, I own a 3500 2017 Duramax but I believe the question is relevant to the 1500 series. I wish to tap into the left and right turn signal circuits to provide a trigger for a left and right side view camera. It appears that the X3 block on the BCM has two relevant inputs (pin 12 and 24). Can I simply tap into each circuit before the pin? My understanding is that the turn indicator switch (S78) pulls the two BCM inputs low (to ground). Is this correct? Are they high (12 V) otherwise? Is there a better way of doing this? I want a constant trigger so I don't want to tap into a circuit after the BCM. If there is a better place to do this, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  11. I am currently the proud owner of a 2016 Silverado LT. However, I am looking to upgrade one part in particular: the Headlight Assembly. I noticed on the '16 and '17 models there are some higher equiped trucks that come with the clear turn signal headlight assembly. i was wondering if there was any way to swap my assembly, with amber hallogen bulbs, for the assembly with the clear lense and amber LEDs that some of the '16 and '17 trucks have. Thanks for the help!
  12. Long time reader first time poster...Son just installed his sound system and amp for his first truck with some friends on the grounds he didn't want to pay the install fee. They managed to blow the starter fuse and console light fuse in the process. He also stated that the left turn signal would flash quickly which I've known to be relay chatter in the past on other vehicles which the computer says it's a blown bulb in one of the sockets. He replaced ALL of the left marker and signal lights and still has the chatter. Well, turns out they routed the power wire for the AMP through the big rubber grommet for the wiring harness through the firewall and apparently cut a wire or more when making a hole for the power wire. Anyone ever replace this harness before or try to splice in a wire jumper??? If anyone has a schematic I can look at would be great - I'm an ex- US Navy Aircraft electrician so I can read them Thanks! Benz0
  13. I got an 09 Sierra SLT and just realized my front drivers side turn signal don't work. I replaced all the bulbs and everything is working but those 2 amber turn signal lights dont work. The parking light on the same bulb works. The same side in the back work. It's just the 2 that don't blink. What do you all think? New to the forum. Thanks!
  14. On my way home today, I noticed that my dash was dusty so I swiped my hand across the dash above the radio. As soon as I did, I lost all radio sound and dash warning sounds like the turn signals, door open, etc. The only way that I could get the sound to return was to shut the engine off, remove the key, lock the truck with the remote, use the remote for the door unlock and re-start the truck. Anyone else have a magnetic personality affecting the radio?
  15. Was driving the other day and noticed my left turn signal was constantly on . Checked all bulbs even replaced a few just in case . I unplugged relay and still left turn was on. Didn't see a reason to replace it since at the time it didn't seem to be the problem. Now after a few days of this I noticed the dash warning lights blinked on as I was driving . Like the truck was being started. The Multi-display even went into the block pattern boot up. Right turn works fine and sometimes left will blink until I step on brake light. then it displays always on ( sometimes left will go out when driving a while) really weird issue. I fear my ECM is about to go out. The only thing not stock about this truck is a aftermarket Kenwood radio professionally installed . and some aftermarket turn signal lights in front with LED's but no mod to wiring. Thanks in advance for any insight on this issue. I guess I should also add I have indicators on the side mirrors.
  16. I need some help guys, I have a 2004 Sierra 2500HD crew cab 4x4 6.0 gasser. Recently I noticed that my right turn signal was blinking very fast. So first thing I check was the bulbs and they all checked out fine. Then I noticed the the right signal will only blink fast when the headlights are on?!? Nothing changes on the left side. Left side works with headlight on or off. I took the right for or apart to look for grounding wires and anything else that would stand out. Noticed the right side DRL socket was burnt up so I replaced that but it didn't help the signal. I am stumped on this one please help.
  17. I recently purchased and installed the under bed rail perimeter LED lights. I purchased them at http://www.shopchevyparts.com/bed-products/2014-silverado-1500-perimeter-bed-lighting-under-rail-led/23145347-p-92279140.html. They are supposed to be a genuine GM part. The plugged into a junction block under the bed, close to the trailer plug. They installed easily without any drilling. The lights work off of the cargo light switch. They work great. However, now my turn signals are not working correctly. The bottom light on the rear driver side lights up when I use the drivers turn signal. The top light on the passenger side lights up when I use the passenger side turn signal. I double checked and made sure I didn't knock anything loose while installing the new lights. I have disconnected the LED bed lights. I have disconnected the battery and reconnected the battery with the LED lights disconnected. The turn signals are still not working correctly. I also get a warning that the rear turn signal has failed. They work correctly for 3 blinks, and then fail. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
  18. I'm currently looking at these mirrors for an 07 GMC 2500HD Classic here: http://monsterautoparts.com/GMC/SIERRA/gmc_sierra_towing_mirrors_telescopic.htm Item1339-0010B because its the pair. They're exactly what I want: Power mirror, heated and turn signal BUT its manual telescoping. Is there any place I can get all that with power telescoping? I'm kind of at a loss of where to look since the ones I had bookmarked seem to have gone missing. I just have standard mirrors now so the next question I'm asking is, what else does it seem I would need to install these? Am I just not looking hard enough to find other options? I went to a local GM dealer and they're guy said GM had discontinued the OEM ones.
  19. Hello gentlemen, I am new here, and to the forum scene as a whole, and I have a problem that I could your expertise with. I have owned two Silverado's and i have had the similar problems with both. The dash will make a very strange, screeching sound. On my 2000, the turn signal wont activate after weeks of making this noise. Now, the lights themselves work fine but it seems that the vehicle is just not registering that i have switched on the turn signal. Any suggestions, before i start to tear the whole thing about haha? Thank you all.
  20. Vehicle is a 2007 Sierra WT with 75000 miles. I had my front brakes changed 3 days ago along with a coolant and trans fluid exchange at Sears auto. I had no issues until the second day of driving when I started my truck and the turn signal would make a right hand signal in the Off AND Right hand positions but there was no signal when placed in the Left hand position. So, there is no Left signal at all. I have attempted to jiggle any wire clusters under the steering and knuckle knock the area of the turn signal stick but to no avail. It doesn't seem like the service work would have anything to do with turn signals and that it could be completely unrelated, but that's why I am asking if it might. One electrical issue I've had since I bought the truck (second hand with 2,800 miles on it....was supposedly leased by a church prior to my purchase) is that very infrequently, once every few months, I will start the truck and the clock will incorrectly read 12:00 as if the battery had been disconnected or something...it's the original radio/clock. Other work done: slid off highway into tree lined fence in snowstorm on passenger side and had body work done; and rear ended while stopped at a light, offender probably doing 25 mph. More body work. Nothing else besides regular maintenance. Is this a relay issue? Is it possible the recent service could have initiated this failure? Any ideas? Thank You for any help, JC
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