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I bought a 2023 new body style Silverado 1500 LT the only issue im having is that the passenger seat isn’t electric its a manual, has anyone done the swap from manual to electric ? if so how complicated is it

I have a 98 Silverado z71 with 5.7 350. The check engine light came on giving p0405 code. (low egr voltage). I have replaced the egr and nothing changed. I tested the wiring with the egr unplugged and it tests fine, but if I plug the egr in I lose the 12 volts. If I unplug it I have 12 volt. Now that's with my ohm meter. If I put a load on it, ie hook a headlight to it, it wont power it. I have traced all of the wires back to the ecm. They all are fine. I even unplugged the wiring from ecm and put 12volts from the battery thru the 12volt wire going to the egr and the wire is fine. A friend who is a mechanic by trade said it could be the ecm. I replaced the ecm today.(not a brand new one. one from a used parts/salvage yard). I got the truck to run and the check engine light came on within a few minutes. Same as before, with the ohm meter I have 12 volts going to the egr with the plug unplugged, as soon as I plug it in it goes to 0.03 volts. I even bought another egr thinking it could possible be a bad/shorted one. I'm at a total loss. any help would be great. Thank you!!

So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it?

So I have a question don’t get on me for being dumb just want other opinions. I have a ls2 swapped rado bought the truck on a deal only problem was I couldn’t drive it for more than 20-30mins without getting trans hot on the dash and would go into limp mode but if you cut the engine off for a minute or two and cut it back on message went away for another 20-30mins but the actual trans temps never hit about 180 this is where it all starts. anyway 1blown torque converter later and a trans rebuild my transmission guy told me the genius put a 2500 ecu in just to get the truck to fire up with a slight tune that pulled like a F****** freight train back to the point he tells me the truck thinks is has a 4l80 in it witch It doesn’t I have a 4l60 he said I needed to take it to a tuner shop asap so I don’t blow my trans or torque converter again because there’s a lot of major differences mainly being gear rations and shift points witch I thought a tune would fix anyway but I wasn’t for sure so I got the truck tuned by Powerfab autosports and they reflashed the ecu programmed it and did a dyno tune when I pick up the truck the dude shows me the power chart and the truck made 280hp 360tq witch I think is way ****ing off but I am not a master mechanic I know a lot about vehicle but not enough to be firm on saying that’s bullshit Why I needs y’all’s insight is because when the truck was ****ed up and giving trans hot display on dash the ****** was a ****** Ton faster and pulled a boat load harder the ass would squat the truck would drop a gear and scream so beautifully she would literally throw me back in my seat and keep in mind this is with 305/35/24s now it’s just feels like I have a slightly beefed up 4.8 engine mods are air intake long tube headers full exhaust trans cooler and that’s pretty much it as far as I’m aware does anyone know or have any insight as to what is going on and why I am making such low numbers or where the **** my power went?? and I would appreciate no assholes just need some info thanks!

Hey, I have quite the problem solve for all you techs out there. It's been brought to a GM Dealer; no luck. I'm far from unable to work on my own stuff and am mechanically inclined but this one has me stumped. Problem: I'm from Northern Ontario; where an average winter temp is minus 15-25 degrees Celsius. All summer long in warm weather, my dash cluster will work perfectly fine. Last winter, the only time I would have a problem would be when it was around -20 or colder. This year, anything from +2ish and below, absolutely nothing on my dash cluster will work except for the black light (back light works normally, turns on and off when the lighting is proper) this includes speedo, tach, battery, gas, cruise control, odometer... until my truck warms up and I shut it off and warm it back up. And when it's cold, that's no drive around town, I'm talking if it's cold it takes a good half hour on the highway and then I have to shut the key off and turn it back on and my dash flickers and works from then on till I shut it off and it gets cold again. When you cycle the key, the needles kind of flicker and try to go, but no dice. I am beyond stumped. Let me know if any of you have had the same problem or have any type of solution. Justin.

I need to add power to my power seats can I get ground and power from my audio system and connect it to the pins on the seat plug to be able to get power and move the seat

I'm currently looking at these mirrors for an 07 GMC 2500HD Classic here: http://monsterautoparts.com/GMC/SIERRA/gmc_sierra_towing_mirrors_telescopic.htm Item1339-0010B because its the pair. They're exactly what I want: Power mirror, heated and turn signal BUT its manual telescoping. Is there any place I can get all that with power telescoping? I'm kind of at a loss of where to look since the ones I had bookmarked seem to have gone missing. I just have standard mirrors now so the next question I'm asking is, what else does it seem I would need to install these? Am I just not looking hard enough to find other options? I went to a local GM dealer and they're guy said GM had discontinued the OEM ones.

Had a 2018 Sierra 2500 for a loaner while my 1500 was having warranty work done. We got a couple 0 degree days here in St Louis during the polar vortex and the 2500 went into limp mode and wouldn't allow me to go above 25 mph. CEL came on and a message popped up "Reduced Engine Power". I was 30 miles from the dealer that loaned it to me and they sent someone out and gave me a 2019 Silverado 1500. Next day they towed the 2500 back and found the diesel fuel had "gelled" from the cold temps. Curious, is this common in diesels? I let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before driving as I know diesels need a little more warm up time than gas engines. How could it idle and drive up to 25 mph with the fuel "gelled" as the dealer put it? Didn't shake or sputter, just had the rpm limiter kick in at 25 mph.

2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 duramax The two power outlets on the dash and the one under the console have no power I have checked the fuses and wires and they are good I don’t know what it could be any help would be great thanks

This weekend someone slammed my passenger door probably to hard in my opinion. Not sure if this is the cause of the problem but the issue did start soon after. The Window and mirror lost power first intermittently, now completely. I checked the fuse and also didn’t see anything obvious as far as wires being loose or broken from the harness. Any suggestions or recommendations for a fix would be greatly appreciated.