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DJPepper

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About DJPepper

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  1. I was trying to find out how much fuel my 2008 Sierra 5.3 LY5 burns at idle. I'm logging mpg from running stock, running only in 3rd gear ( to stop the afm from activating), oil catch can installed in line with pcv, updated valve cover thats supposed to reduce oil consumption through the pcv system, after new plugs and wires (and possibly top engine cleaner depending what the combustion chambers look like), and I'll eventually get a tune so I can use OD without cylinder deactivation coming on. I'm urban camping while I save for a boat to use as a condo on the water. Last week was way hotter and I let my truck idle for AC and to use my inverter much longer than usual.I was hoping to find my idle fuel consumption rate to correct my numbers. Is this possible with a tech 2 clone? I've been through all of the settings and data options and can't find anything. Or what's a good estimate to use?
  2. tlaw91 I'm definitely losing oil out of the cooler line. Maybe I have bad rings too. Any indicators to verify? The engine runs great.
  3. Thanks swathdriver. Cutting the fitting and just replacing the hose sounds like the easiest fix. I'll have to pull the skid plate check out the block connection first.
  4. My 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 LY5 has had an oil consumption problem since I got it at 99,000 miles (now 144K). I change my oil around every 6K mile with full synthetic and have to add 2-3qts in the interim. At first I thought I was losing oil from the active fuel management system but I noticed the oil cooler lines have a slow leak at the crimped transition. I'm planning on changing them and just wondered if there is a 3rd party option that actually lasts without leaking. I've been reading that this has been a common problem for the last 3 or 4 generations at least. So I'd like to stay away from ACDelco on this one. Any tips on the repair would be great too.
  5. So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it?
  6. Appreciate the responses guys. At 12-13 years old, age is what worries me about the hoses, and they seem worn. I think I can get the 2 main hoses for under $20, and I've got to take them half way off to do the flush anyway so I'm thinking I'll just go ahead and do those. Davester, are you saying your '04 Sierra 3500 still has the original cooling system parts? I've put new fluid in the differentials and transfer case in the last year, my transmission fluid still looks really clean, and my brake fluid tests good for water and pH. I'll add a power steering fluid, belts, and pulleys to my list.
  7. I've got a '08 Sierra 1500 5.3 LY5 afm with 143k on it. I bought it used from a dealership with 98k on it in 2017 and as far as I can tell no 100k maintenance has been done so I'm getting ready to flush out the cooling system and change plugs and wires. I was just wondering about changing out coolant hoses, lines, thermostat and how much life I can expect out of the radiator. I think I'll put a new thermostat and new radiator hoses on while I'm at it. I was just wondering what everyone's experience is with these parts failing (really any part of the cooling system) (mileage, age, etc at time of failure). Any heater hose leaks? As old as the coolant is it only shows a voltage of 30-35ma with the truck off, so as I understand it, it isn't overly acidic, but I can see micro particulate in it. Also what are these 2 lines in the pic? It looks like they go to the radiator, but it could be to the tranny cooler. It looks like one of them has a slow leak by the damp crud collected on the line and the wet spot on the skid plate. Any experience with that condition? I haven't noticed any low levels on coolant or tranny fluid. It does burn a good amount of oil, I guess due to the afm. I'd like to shut that off permanently. Here's a shot in the dark: Is this the original plug wire? I've watched some plugs and wires change vids on the webs and other original wires are red. I'm assuming these are the original plugs and wires because the wire part #(8997) doesn't turn anything up on the web (due to age?), and if you were going to trade this truck in at 100k why would you spend money on the scheduled maintenance. Wire color must vary between years, motors, GM/Chevy). I suppose the definitive way to tell would be to pull a plug and see if it has the original part number.
  8. It's been a while, but I thought I would update this in case anyone happens to be in a similar situation. It turned out to be a bad FSCM. I have a tech 2 clone, but couldn't get the programming mode to work so I ended up taking to the local dealership to install and program. I tried taking it off myself but it was a real bitch (GM must put these on before the bed goes on) and high temps were 5-10°F in northern Michigan at the time. The dealer charged $289 for the install, programming, and a new acdelco battery; so it could have been worse. I ordered the FSCM online for under a $100 (forget where, maybe Rock Auto). That's the way to go if you can wait for shipping. My impression is that the bad FSCM was causing the drain on the battery. Everything has been good since then. To save yourself from having get towed to a dealer (and check that your fuel pump is working) just use a jumper wire on the fscm plug to send power directly to the fuel pump and you can drive it in (gmflash has the pinout for the plug). I used the fuel pump fuse as a power switch when I had things wired this way. I tried diagnosing using the gmflash youtube video and a pinout on there website but it seems like some of the info was confounded and it turned out to be a waste of time. I would say if you have the u0109 code it's likely a bad fscm. My concurrent battery issue made me think I had a short in that circuit, but it was the fscm all along.
  9. Thanks for the replies guys. I was just doing some testing following the gmflash youtube channel. I'm only reading 12-18mV on both sides of the ecm probing the green and white wire that goes to the fscm. It's my understandings that it should be reading close to battery voltage. If thats accurate it seems like the problem could lie between the power center and the ecm. But I'll double check after the battery gets some charge. Any idea what ecm fuse to check there (I'm assuming it should be close to battery voltage at that point too)? I checked voltage at the fscm fuse too and its around 12V.
  10. Hi folks, I've got a problem with my truck that I'm hoping someone can offer some guidance on. I've researched the conditions and search some forums but haven't found anything yet. So 3 mornings ago I went to drive my truck and the battery was dead. I tried jump starting it and it turned over fine but wouldn't fire. It was cold in Northern Michigan so I thought I might have some bad gas and freezing in the fuel lines. I pit a heater on it the next morning and tried starting and the battery was dead again. I charrged it again and pulled a U0109 code. And others related to low voltage (those have cleared and not returned since not letting the battery die). So I haven't seen anyone have the battery and u0109 occur at the same time. Hoping someone has experience with the conditions simultaneously and can help track down the problem. There is power at the fuel pump when I bypass the fscm at the plug. I've also tried a paraitic draw test by measuring voltage drop across fuses and nothing turned up. But when I put my ammometer in line with the battery ground I get an initial draw of about 2.4A that starts decreasing after 30 seconds and stabilizes at 20mA. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! 08 Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L 4x4 with no mods and no sign of issues before this happened
  11. Hi folks, I've got a problem with my truck that I'm hoping someone can offer some guidance on. I've researched the conditions and search some forums but haven't found anything yet. So 3 mornings ago I went to drive my truck and the battery was dead. I tried jump starting it and it turned over fine but wouldn't fire. It was cold in Northern Michigan so I thought I might have some bad gas and freezing in the fuel lines. I pit a heater on it the next morning and tried starting and the battery was dead again. I charrged it again and pulled a U0109 code. And others related to low voltage (those have cleared and not returned since not letting the battery die). So I haven't seen anyone have the battery and u0109 occur at the same time. Hoping someone has experience with the conditions simultaneously and can help track down the problem. There is power at the fuel pump when I bypass the fscm at the plug. I've also tried a paraitic draw test by measuring voltage drop across fuses and nothing turned up. But when I put my ammometer in line with the battery ground I get an initial draw of about 2.4A that starts decreasing after 30 seconds and stabilizes at 20mA. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! 08 Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L 4x4 with no mods and no sign of issues before this happened
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