DJPepper

I've got a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500. The lock was working until a few months ago when I left the window down a bit overnight and it rained. Water got right into the locking switch then the drivers side lock quit working (passenger still worked fine). I finally replace the switch this weekend and nothing's changed. I pulled the door apart and checked continuity between the switch plug and the actuator; it's connected. I also applied 12V to the actuator and it works fine. Fuses are all good. The rest of the switches there work fine. I'm not sure what else is in the lock circuit. Just wondered if anyone has any ideas before I try tracing wires.

I bought ACDelco WA8555, I think I've found the clear coat now ACDelco 19354938. Not totally sure as I don't know much about auto paint and clearcoat sourcing. Like are there different levels of gloss/shine, or different formulations that affect the color's finished appearance? This is the only one I can find so I'm assuming it's right. Thanks.

Just looking around to figure out how to finish my repair of some rusted out wheel wells and I can't find anything about the clear coat on my truck. It's a 2008 Sierra 1500 with paint code U8555 (black). I found the paint with no problem. Anyone know what the original clear coat is? Or does any non GM product match?

Thanks Rick. Yeah you're probably right but I like to be thorough. Thought maybe the brakes or the inner tie rod might be a cause too. I think I'll put new strut assemblies and inner tie rod ends on and brakes need done anyway, and try a different alignment shop. I'm just hoping to understand what part would cause this saw tooth pattern to make sure it's actually getting fixed. Maybe it's just common with the newer style AT3's.

2008 Sierra 1500 4x4 with towing package (3.73 rear end and upgraded suspension parts I believe). So I took my Sierra in to get new tpms installed. My tire guy pointed out uneven wear on my Cooper AT3's (about 4500 miles on them) and suggested I get my alignment checked out. The wear is on the outer row of treads and maybe slightly into the next row inside. The wear is best described as heel to toe or lippage on the back of the tread. Both front tires show similar wear. The ride feels smooth and runs true on flat roads. I took it to get the alignment checked anyway and the guys told me I needed a new lower ball joint on one side and new strut assemblies. Lowers are ~2.5 years old (maybe junk economy parts, not sure), and the uppers are 5 month old Moog problem solvers. I took it home and jacked it up, set up a camera on the suspension, rocked the tire, and saw zero movement on the ball joint. Also stopped and had my mechanic check it, and he said the ball joint is fine. So I think that is not the culprit. My coil springs seem fine (no bouncing after hitting bumps), but the assemblies have 160,000 miles on them. So I'm wondering if tired struts could cause the wear pattern I'm getting (or anything else I should check for this type of wear). I noticed there is slight play in one of my inner tie rod ends (moving 90 degrees from the tie rod on the horizontal plane, 1/8" one way, ~1/4" back and forth). I thought that might have something to do with the tire wear, but it's only on one side. The only other thing that seems off to me is I get some brake pulsations when braking hard. So basically I'm wondering if the struts could cause this wear pattern or if I should be looking at something else. I'm planning on doing the brakes soon and was looking at KYB SR4079 for a strut assembly replacement. Thanks for any input.

I was trying to find out how much fuel my 2008 Sierra 5.3 LY5 burns at idle. I'm logging mpg from running stock, running only in 3rd gear ( to stop the afm from activating), oil catch can installed in line with pcv, updated valve cover thats supposed to reduce oil consumption through the pcv system, after new plugs and wires (and possibly top engine cleaner depending what the combustion chambers look like), and I'll eventually get a tune so I can use OD without cylinder deactivation coming on. I'm urban camping while I save for a boat to use as a condo on the water. Last week was way hotter and I let my truck idle for AC and to use my inverter much longer than usual.I was hoping to find my idle fuel consumption rate to correct my numbers. Is this possible with a tech 2 clone? I've been through all of the settings and data options and can't find anything. Or what's a good estimate to use?

So I'm living out of my truck now while I save some funds to by a houseboat in San Diego. I just bought a cheap inverter from walmart to run my laptop and I'm wondering what implications this has for my battery. I have an ACDelco silver line (30 month) that's about a year old and has never had excessive drainage. So I guess my question is what exactly is the excessive drain limit? I mean is there a minimum voltage I should keep in mind to avoid premature battery failure. Obviously I want to avoid a no start condition. What voltage could that occur at? I'm just charging my laptop with it (130w charger) and am assuming running it while the engine is off is fine for a while. I tried to google and youtube for some answers but was inundated with garbage results so hopefully this question is fine here. Any other inverter related advice that might not be obvious to consider would be appreciated too. And inverter recommendations. I'm pretty sure this is a modified sine wave (cheap, Everstart plus 400w), are the true sine wave models worth it?