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midwestdenaliguy

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midwestdenaliguy last won the day on August 9 2018

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  1. JimCost2014 nailed it on the head with his first reply, it comes down to the service manager. I've lived in 6 different states and most service managers I've had were not great. I finally struck gold with the one I have now. There has been ~$7k of work done outside of warranties and I've only had to pay ~$500 out of pocket. My service manager got GM to cover the rest. So in my case GM covered 97% of all my repairs outside of warranty. Most of that total came from 2 major repairs, bent pushrod like you and both heads leaking coolant into the intake. The entire top end of my engine was rebuilt with new parts at around 72k miles (60k is warranty limit). If it wasn't for my service manager I would no longer be a GM owner. He's had my back the entire time I've owned this truck. Personally, I wouldn't settle for 30% from the dealership. I think you've got an argument that the camshaft had lobe issues after the first or second repair under warranty. It took a little while to show back up, but to have the same issue 3 times to me says it's more than coincidence. It's a negotiation at this point and the dealership gave you their first offer at 30%. I'd push for more help from them and ask they get GM involved as well and try to match their help at a minimum. Maybe you'll land at 40% dealership, 40% GM, 20% your pocket.
  2. +1 on this. It's not often, but it has happened a handful of times to my passenger mirror only over the 3 years I've owned the truck. Not enough of a problem for me to pull it apart or buy a new one, but it was the same issue you describe. Didn't hear any gears catching/stripping or a motor making a weird noise. I would guess it's an intermittent electrical issue where the mirror doesn't receive the signal. Mine didn't move or make a sound the few times it's happened. I just hit the button two more times to sync up both mirrors and it's always corrected itself. Sorry, not sure what exactly is going on.
  3. I've always thought the rear headrests were awful short and stubby in my 2016 Sierra Denali Crew Cab. For adult passengers and my kids once they are tall enough, I wanted a better option. After digging around in here I noticed that in pics of double/extended cabs the rear headrests were different and looked taller than my crew cab headrests. There are a few options on ebay and I found rear headrests from a double cab that match my black leather interior. Thought I'd show comparison pics of the crew cab headrests vs the double/extended cab headrests. You get about an inch more of coverage, so nothing spectacular but it is more. Headrests in good shape ranged from $50-$200 in my ebay search, so it all depends on how much you want to pay for the additional head coverage. Next on the to do list will be to add notches down the steel leg mounts to have them stay higher than the factory notches. I did notice the double/extended cab headrests stay locked in position much better than the crew cab ones. Why? I have no idea, but the crew cab ones would fall down even when going over a slight bump in the road. In the last pic I just slid the crew cab headrest legs behind the middle seat to have something there. It stays in position pretty good, won't be able to extend up but it doesn't move at all while driving.
  4. Assuming it's the factory battery, it would be ~4 years old at this point. You *might* get another year out of it so I would just replace it at this point. I've had batteries over the years do weird stuff that didn't quite make sense to me but once I replaced it the problem went away. If you find out it's not your battery after replacing it then you're not really out anything since it would be smart to replace it this year anyway. Start there then continue to diagnose if it still persists.
  5. The vacuum pump was redesigned and they replace the old one. If you have the issue the pedal will be REALLY hard to push down, intermittently. It happens at slower speeds and it feels like you're not going to stop, but it will if you push extremely hard on the pedal. I had to basically stand on mine when it happened. Was turning left from the street into a parking lot when the car in front of me stopped. Going about 10mph the pedal got really hard and I tried slamming on the pedal and eventually stood on it to stop just in time. Took it in the dealer the next day and they replaced the vacuum pump with a redesigned one. This was before the TSB was issued and I was out of warranty. A few months later they extended the warranty just for this issue and I was reimbursed by GM for the repairs (around $700). Because I stood on the pedal to get it to stop it ruptured the boot inside the brake booster. The truck stopped fine after the new vacuum pump was put in, but I had an annoying squeak from the booster. That got replaced as well. And as far as feel, it was the same before and after. The only difference is no intermittent hard brake pedal due to vacuum loss. Haven't had it happen since the new pump was put in ~50k miles ago.
  6. Your friend willing to print another one? Happy to pay for it. Any pics of the installed/finished product?
  7. I haven't bought the 2021 update, but in previous GM vehicles where I waited a few years and then updated the NAV map I have never noticed a large difference. Maybe a few new roads here and there, but at $99 I will not be buying the 2021 update. I like having the factory NAV as a back-up in case my cell signal drops in a remote location, but outside of that I use my phone 99% of the time due to the live traffic updates (as others have mentioned). If live traffic updates are not something you care about and/or don't want your phone tied up using it as navigation and/or feel like you are missing some roads on your current map, then get the factory update. If you haven't noticed any missing roads then it doesn't make sense to me to spend the money on an update. Also, FWIW I had the 3 month free trial of the onstar live traffic on the NAV and it sucked. I would already be stuck in traffic when it then kicked in with "heavy traffic ahead." So if you're considering paying onstar for that feature it's not worth a single penny.
  8. For sure. I've lived in 6 different states and this is the first dealership I've gone out of my way to refer people to them. Their service manager 'gets it' and makes common sense decisions while always fighting for the customer. He's gotten all of my repairs covered by GM, even outside of warranty. He knows this is an investment, not only keeping me as a GM customer but it's also led to more business for their sales dept too (I sent my in-laws there and they bought a new SUV). Told their General Manager the Service Manager needs a raise.
  9. Man, the more I read stories like this the more I realize I'm fortunate to have a dealership like mine. When I took it in for the shutter problem they replaced the TC, performed the triple flush with the new fluid, and did the relearn all in one shot. My service manager said doing all 3 at once makes more sense because people keep coming back when only one or two of those steps are done. They get it all taken care of in one shot and save you and themselves time from repeat visits. Good luck, hopefully the new TC takes care of it for you. I've had 40k trouble free miles since they did all three of those steps for me - no shutter whatsoever.
  10. Dude just joins and first post is to help the community...baller. Nice work.
  11. Guys have complained in here about that Gen 2 charger only working intermittently as well. I can't speak as to why for them, but I decided it wasn't worth the $140 (price + ship) gamble of it only working sometimes. For $60 and an hour of my time I have something that works 100% of the time. Up to each person though, totally understand why someone wouldn't want to mess around with their center console like I did and would gladly pay more for the convenience of a plug and play.
  12. Not sure if you solved this, but I did a mod and added an aftermarket charger. Here's my thread on how to do it, with pics:
  13. Finally got around to fixing two issues that were driving me crazy with my center console lid...the wireless charging hardly ever working and a creak sound any time someone moved their elbow. I've got a 2016 Sierra that came with the wireless charging lid, so if you have a non-wireless charging lid you will need to pull it to verify if you can do it this exact way. Here's how I solved it in case you are dealing with either issue. Pics have been provided for additional aid to the steps. Total Cost $55-$60 Time for Labor 1 hour if you are familiar with trim removal and modding interior parts, 2-3 hours if you are unfamiliar and want to take your time. Tools Needed - Standard phillips head screw driver to remove lid from spring loaded console arms - Small phillips head screw driver to remove the top portion of the aftermarket wireless charger - T15 torx head screw driver or bit to remove console back cover to access wiring as well as some screws on the lid - T8 torx head screw driver or bit to remove black cover on GM wireless charger - Trim removal tool kit (not 100% necessary but makes removing the underside of the console lid much easier and prevents damage) - 5/32 drill bit to drill additional holes in metal plumbers tape (if needed) - Dremel with plastic cutting disc (or whatever plastic cutting device you prefer) to grind off plastics studs on underside of console lid as well as modifying a piece of plastic to be used as a flush mounting surface for the new wireless charger - Pliers to crimp wire taps - Scissors and box cutter if you are doing the creak repair with felt tape Wireless Charger Mod Parts Needed - Went with this aftermarket wireless charger because it's the perfect size for the charging pad cutout GM designed on our console lids (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYQQ1R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 12V to 5V DC converter with USB adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JHH294R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Two 14-20 gauge wire taps to install DC converter. You'll tap into the cigarette lighter wiring on the back cover of the center console. - Right angle USB C to USB A - the wireless charger comes with a cable but you need a right angle USB C in order for it to mount flush against the lid/pad (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G29Y1JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Metal plumbers tape, also called hanger iron (https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-13-1601-28-Gauge-Galvanized-Perforated/dp/B0083GC8V2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3E1963KVCL75B&dchild=1&keywords=plumbers+tape+metal&qid=1601480659&sprefix=plumbers+tape%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-3) - Tin snips for the metal plumbers tape. If you don't have them and don't want to purchase you can bend the metal plumbers tape back and forth until it breaks. Might not be the cleanest break, but it works. - OPTIONAL, as you'll see I repurposed the GM wireless charger by using the black plastic piece that mounts flush with the pad cutout. You can fabricate your own plastic piece to fit in here if you don't want to sacrifice your GM wireless charge. I figured I'm never using it again and won't bother selling a faulty part so that's why I used it. Plus it holds perfectly secure using the existing screws. Creak Fix Parts Needed - Felt tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPN1WRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Steps for Fix 1. Remove back side cover of center console, this will allow you to unplug the GM wireless charger if you have it and allow you access when you tap into the cigarette lighter for power to the aftermarket wireless charger. First remove the rubber tray from the bottom cutout/storage area, this exposes 2 of the 4 torx head screws that need to be removed. The other 2 screws are already exposed. All 4 torx head screws are T15. Once those are removed you need to pull up and away from the console to get the clips to come out, don't be afraid to use a little force as long as it's up and away from the console (not just straight back). Once the clips come out, unplug the cigarette lighter and set the cover to the side. Now unplug the GM wireless charger, it will be near the left arm. There is also a clip holding the wire in place, unclip this as well so the wire is loose and ready to be pulled out when you remove the lid. This video shows the screw removal and pulling out of the cover if you need it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iytvdK7VoIo&t=50s. 2. Remove underside of console lid, there are 10 total clips holding it in. 3 are on each outer edge (6 total) and 4 total toward the center. This video shows this process if you need it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXXWa4VT6lQ. 3. Remove 4 phillips head screws from the arms holding the lid in place (2 screws on each arm). Slowly pull the lid away as the electrical wire fishes through the arm on the driver side, keep pulling until it's out. 4. Remove the GM wireless charger by removing the 4 T15 tox head screws keeping it in place. Set the GM wireless charger to the side. 5. Grind/cut 5 total white studs, see pic below for stud locations. Clear off plastic debris from lid. 6. Going back to the GM wireless charger, remove the 5 T8 torx head screws from the metal side of the casing. This allows you to pull the black plastic side off to be used as a flush mounting area against the charging pad. The charging coil is stuck against the black plastic casing, as you remove the casing be sure to slowly pull the coil away from it. **You can use your own modified surface to provide a flat area for the aftermarket wireless charger to mount against, but if you don't use anything at all the rubber pad that the phone sits on will rest directly against the slightly uneven surface of the aftermarket charger. Keep in mind the top portion of the aftermarket wireless charger will be removed to sit as close against the lid as possible - this means the exposed charging wires/coils will be right up against the rubber phone pad. Using the black plastic casing from the GM charger, or your own modification, ensures a secure, flat surface area will be there for your phone. Up to you on how picky you are about this. 7. With the black plastic side of the GM wireless charger removed, secure it back in place with the 4 T15 torx head screws. 8. With the black plastic piece now secure, cut the side where the new wireless charger will mount. Be sure to keep it flush with the white plastic portion of the lid so the charger mounts as flush as possible. See pics below for reference. This creates a mess so I had a vacuum handy to clean up all the plastic debris. 9. Now time to install the aftermarket wireless charger. If you bought the same model I posted in the link, you will be removing the top portion of the charger case to get the wires/coils sitting as close to the charging pad as possible. There are 4 screws, 1 in each corner of the underside of the new charger. Remove the rubber feet to expose them. Now use a small phillips head screw driver to remove the screws. Once the screws are removed, you may have to slightly pry to get the top portion to unclip from the bottom portion. Mine unclipped fairly easily. 10. Plug the right angle USB C end of the charging wire into the pad and test it at this point if you already haven't done so (don't risk installing a bad charger or charging wire). Assuming everything works, lay the charger with the exposed charging coils against the console lid. Make sure the right angle charging wire is on the driver side of the lid as the wire will snake through some clip areas and into the drive side arm that holds the lid on. 11. Remove 5 total T15 torx head screws, 1 at the back of the lid, 2 by the lid latch, and 2 on each side of the middle section of the charging area. These will be used to secure the metal plumbers tape against the charger. See pics for reference. 12. Using the metal plumbers tape, measure and cut 3 total strands, 2 will make a "V" pattern over the long side of the charger and 1 will be used across the short, middle area of the charger. Again, see pics for reference. You may need to drill holes in the metal tape that better align to the screw holes, even though the tape has holes in it they didn't line up perfectly for me. 13. Make sure the charger is flush and square with the charging pad area, then tighten down all 3 metal tape strands. I molded them slight by hand to better hold the charger in place. Sucker won't move. 14. With the lid portion now done, it's time to move to the back of the console to install the DC converter with USB adapter. I used the cigarette lighter for power because it only gives power when the vehicle is on. For those concerned about "vampire power", or power being used even though the charger is not in use, there have been tests done about this and the draw is so miniscule it's not a concern. Plus in real world testing it hasn't killed my truck battery since I installed this. Moving on, first splice open the tape shroud around the cigarette lighter electrical wire. You need access to both wires and room for wire taps so make sure to go a few inches back from the plug. 15. Using the wire taps, secure the red wire from the DC adapter to the purple/yellow wire of the cigarette lighter. Then using another wire tap, secure the black wire from the DC adapter to the black wire of the cigarette lighter. See pics below for reference. 16. Grab the console lid and plug in the usb end of the charging cable to the DC adapter to test it. Make sure to turn your ignition to "on" so the line has power. If your phone charges you've done everything correctly. 17. Zip tie the DC adapter securely to the old GM charger wire if you have it, if not find another way to prevent the DC adapter from rattling inside your console. At this point you can either reinstall your console lid if you don't have a creaking sound problem or you can move to the next steps to stop the creaking. 18. After testing the charger, unplug the usb and bring the lid back to your work area. It's time to install felt to the problem areas that cause the plastic to creak when people press on the console lid. There are 10 areas where clips hold the bottom portion of the lid against the top portion. Cut pieces to stick over each clip mount. Once you stick them on, use a box cutter to cut slits for the clips to go in without a problem. Also it's a good idea to stick felt on the underside of the latch area, it would rub on the bottom portion of the lid - causing noise. See pics for reference. 19. Another problem area for creaking is where the metal arms on the console mount to the lid, they rub on each other. Measure and cut felt strips the length of the mounting area of the arms. The first felt area is inside the arm where it bends, making an "L" shape. The other area to apply felt is on the outside area of each arm. There will be 4 felt strips total, 2 wider strips that stick onto the "L" shape interior portion of each arm, and 2 thinner strips that stick onto the outside of each arm. Use the box cutter to poke holes where the mounting studs and screws go into the arms (4 holes on each arm). 20. Reinstall the console lid. With the new felt it will be a snug fit, but it will go into place. Don't be afraid to carefully use pressure to get the arms to seat properly into place. Then screw the 4 mounting screws back into the arms to hold the lid in place. 21. With the lid installed, carefully fish the charging cable wire through the driver side arm and into the back portion of the console where it will plug into the DC adapter. 22. Reinstall the bottom portion of the lid, this will be snug too as you have felt on the clip mounts. Apply pressure and they will all clip into place. 23. Move to the back portion of your console. Use a zip tie to secure the charging cable against the same hole the GM wireless charger wire was mounted to. You want to open the lid and test how much slack you need in the cable line before tightening down the zip tie. As the arm pivots it will need a little wire to move with it. Once you have a good idea of how much wire needs to freely move, you can coil up the rest of the cable and zip tie it into place so it won't cause noise as you drive. See pics for reference. 24. Reinstall the back portion of the console. You're now finished! Ask away if there are any questions!
  14. Thanks for taking the time to reply and even more thanks on the layman's explanation for my simpleton brain!
  15. Much appreciated TXGREEK! As someone else said it's disappointing to see a trusted brand/product be outperformed by so many other brands, but such is life. Once you become educated you then make the proper change. A little while back I switched to Amsoil for my gear oil in the diffs and their ATF for the T-case after researching and seeing great results with others. Wish I would have connected the dots sooner on my engine oil/filter, but now I know and will make the change. Thanks again!
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