No pitch/whining from mine, just hard shifts and the shutter on light acceleration. It was getting progressively worse until I had the dealer replace the TC and perform the triple flush cleaning with the new fluid put in - no evidence of major shavings on the magnets. They also reprogrammed it. I would say it eliminated 90% of my issues. I now get an occasional hard shift and *very slight* shutter, but it's nothing compared to how bad it was. I am paranoid since it was all OEM parts/repairs that it will come back. The repairs occurred at 78k miles and now I'm at 94k, no indication of the issues returning, but I'm still paranoid. Everything you got at $2700 is an amazing deal. I was fortunate my dealer covered all costs outside of my warranty, next time it's out of my pocket. Will definitely find a reputable shop and have them put in better aftermarket parts - knock on wood though - maybe mine will last beyond 200k miles.
Sorry, meant resistors not resonators (was looking up exhaust options when I replied to your thread) - I corrected it in my first reply. You splice these (see ebay link below) directly into your ride height and shock connections on the truck. There are two wires on each connection, so splice the lines open and one resistor wire ties into one connector wire and the other resistor wire ties into the other connector wire. If you plan on trashing your Magneride shocks and ride height sensors, you can cut off those connectors and tie in a resistor on each of them and plug them into your factory connections on the truck (video below from a guy who did it). You risk corrosion if they're not sealed properly. Also test the truck first by twisting them on and not soldering or crimping anything. May need to mess with them to ensure proper connection and everything works ok. Google it and someone may have posted pics/videos of how they did it. If you left your ride height sensors on your truck and plugged in, you won't need resistors for those, just 4 total (one for each shock connection). If you took your ride height sensors off as well, then you'll need 4 more resistors for those connections. https://www.ebay.com/i/301100426052?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=301100426052&targetid=475515229141&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9022859&poi=&campaignid=6469750693&mkgroupid=79220282802&rlsatarget=aud-622524040998:pla-475515229141&abcId=1141176&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2efrBRD3ARIsAEnt0ejMXO2xsbwM7dqI1vkesQ8K8M6qVWFMYO7aVyjjJo7cUoVCFdxaRUIaAhfgEALw_wcB
Yes, I'm guessing you didn't install a bypass kit or resistors where the ride height sensors and shocks are plugged in (8 total connections). Your ECM thinks there's a problem with your suspension because it's no longer getting a signal from your Magneride shocks and ride height sensors. It limits the speed as a safety precaution. Corvette guys deal with this issue all the time too when they make modifications to race it. You either have to splice in resistors at each connection, or buy a bypass kit. There are cheap ones you can find on eBay or you can pay for a professional, but expensive, kit through X-ineering. You're probably getting the "service suspension" message on your cluster. If you install a kit/resistors correctly, that will go away and you'll be able to drive over 85mph.
FWIW - My full-size 800cc ATV is right around 750 pounds and I'm 210-215 pounds depending if I went to Taco Tuesday or not that week. With 8 foot ramps, I have loaded it in my bed and driven many miles with zero issues. OEM cables look good and tailgate opens and closes like new. The rear wheels sit right in the center of the tailgate. Here are pics:
The only question I can help with is around fuel economy before and after AFM delete. My driving habits and conditions were identical before and after the AFM delete, so that is not a factor. I drive a 2016 Sierra CC, short bed with 6.2L 8 speed. Set up prior to AFM delete was a leveling kit, stock engine and CAI, Borla exhaust. Set up after the AFM delete was heavier AT tires (went from 4 ply to 10 ply), aftermarket CAI (aFe), Borla exhaust stayed in, and custom tune from DiabLew (Diablo Sports i3 tuner). Prior to the changes, I was at 17.5 lifetime mpg (could be better but I have a lead foot). In the 22k miles since the tune and bigger tire install I have dropped down to to 17.4 lifetime mpg. The loss is so minimal for me going to all-time V8 that it's a no brainer to get rid of AFM and not risk the issues (had an AFM lifter fail on me while AFM was enabled - dealer covered cost). You could even argue there would be no fuel economy loss, or possibly a gain, if I stayed with 4 ply tires. To me, it's not worth keeping AFM enabled.
RIBBLE RABBLE...OIL...RIBBLE RABBLE. Lmao, always love these oil threads. Never fails to start with good intentions, and usually a hypothetical question, then it blows up. Followed by people trying to get it back on track. Same cycle in every one of these. OP - to answer your question though, no I have not kept my M1 Extended filter in for 2 intervals. I always change the filter with the M1 full syn oil. I ask myself if the risk is worth the annual savings of about $16 and the answer is no. I put on 30k miles per year, so at an interval of 7500 miles that's 4 changes per year. At $8 per filter, if I double up on each filter that saves me purchasing 2 filters ($16 in annual savings). Not worth it in my opinion.
Totally get it - I know you're not bashing. You've had a major issue occur prematurely, so you have every right to discuss it. I've been a loyal GM guy for years as well, and unfortunately this truck has been the most troublesome I've owned of all my GM vehicles. Now with that said, GM and my GM dealer have stepped up and made every issue right by repairing it out of their pocket - even outside of my warranty. At the end of the day I understand vehicles have a lot of moving parts that will fail eventually. It's when it's prematurely and due to design issues that GM should be making it right - and they have so far in my case. As far as longevity, it's a crap shoot. Some parts can show wear, but last forever. Others can look great, but fail. Depends on so many factors: driving habits/conditions, maintenance, etc. From your other posts it looks like you're a guy who stays on top of everything, but I have friends who are great mechanics that take care of their stuff and something breaks down regardless. For example, a buddy of mine owns a 2006 Lotus Elise that he bought a couple years ago. He's an engineer who grew up tearing apart and rebuilding all kinds of engines/motors. The Elise is wiping cams like crazy, within 2000 miles of him replacing it, and he isn't hard on the car and is proactive on all maintenance. He's gone through 4 cams and is left to the conclusion that there is something inherently wrong with the design and or build of his engine (it's actually the same engine that's in a Toyota Celica GTS believe it or not). The same goes for our lifters in these AFM engines, look at how many posts there are in this forum on that alone. Sorry, but I don't think there's a clear answer on this. I'm assuming you pulled that cam yourself and took those pics, if that's the case you've got the know-how and tools to put in a high performance cam or a new OEM cam and your worry of the scored lobes goes away. Might be your only solution if you're that worried. Just my two cents.
Well if you've got lobe issues the engine will not run great due to a valve not properly opening and closing. Does it still have symptoms of a misfire? You can also have noticable lifter tap, a rough idle, rattling sound at higher rpm's, or the engine just feeling doggy. If you have none of that and the engine is running fine and I wouldn't worry about it. I had a lifter collapse about 10-15k miles ago and they didn't replace the camshaft because nothing looked bad. I've had trouble free miles since the repair, engine performs great.
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