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midwestdenaliguy last won the day on August 9 2018

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About midwestdenaliguy

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  1. Dude just joins and first post is to help the community...baller. Nice work.
  2. Guys have complained in here about that Gen 2 charger only working intermittently as well. I can't speak as to why for them, but I decided it wasn't worth the $140 (price + ship) gamble of it only working sometimes. For $60 and an hour of my time I have something that works 100% of the time. Up to each person though, totally understand why someone wouldn't want to mess around with their center console like I did and would gladly pay more for the convenience of a plug and play.
  3. Not sure if you solved this, but I did a mod and added an aftermarket charger. Here's my thread on how to do it, with pics:
  4. Finally got around to fixing two issues that were driving me crazy with my center console lid...the wireless charging hardly ever working and a creak sound any time someone moved their elbow. I've got a 2016 Sierra that came with the wireless charging lid, so if you have a non-wireless charging lid you will need to pull it to verify if you can do it this exact way. Here's how I solved it in case you are dealing with either issue. Pics have been provided for additional aid to the steps. Total Cost $55-$60 Time for Labor 1 hour if you are familiar with trim removal and modding interior parts, 2-3 hours if you are unfamiliar and want to take your time. Tools Needed - Standard phillips head screw driver to remove lid from spring loaded console arms - Small phillips head screw driver to remove the top portion of the aftermarket wireless charger - T15 torx head screw driver or bit to remove console back cover to access wiring as well as some screws on the lid - T8 torx head screw driver or bit to remove black cover on GM wireless charger - Trim removal tool kit (not 100% necessary but makes removing the underside of the console lid much easier and prevents damage) - 5/32 drill bit to drill additional holes in metal plumbers tape (if needed) - Dremel with plastic cutting disc (or whatever plastic cutting device you prefer) to grind off plastics studs on underside of console lid as well as modifying a piece of plastic to be used as a flush mounting surface for the new wireless charger - Pliers to crimp wire taps - Scissors and box cutter if you are doing the creak repair with felt tape Wireless Charger Mod Parts Needed - Went with this aftermarket wireless charger because it's the perfect size for the charging pad cutout GM designed on our console lids (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PYQQ1R7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - 12V to 5V DC converter with USB adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JHH294R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Two 14-20 gauge wire taps to install DC converter. You'll tap into the cigarette lighter wiring on the back cover of the center console. - Right angle USB C to USB A - the wireless charger comes with a cable but you need a right angle USB C in order for it to mount flush against the lid/pad (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G29Y1JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Metal plumbers tape, also called hanger iron (https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-13-1601-28-Gauge-Galvanized-Perforated/dp/B0083GC8V2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3E1963KVCL75B&dchild=1&keywords=plumbers+tape+metal&qid=1601480659&sprefix=plumbers+tape%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-3) - Tin snips for the metal plumbers tape. If you don't have them and don't want to purchase you can bend the metal plumbers tape back and forth until it breaks. Might not be the cleanest break, but it works. - OPTIONAL, as you'll see I repurposed the GM wireless charger by using the black plastic piece that mounts flush with the pad cutout. You can fabricate your own plastic piece to fit in here if you don't want to sacrifice your GM wireless charge. I figured I'm never using it again and won't bother selling a faulty part so that's why I used it. Plus it holds perfectly secure using the existing screws. Creak Fix Parts Needed - Felt tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CPN1WRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Steps for Fix 1. Remove back side cover of center console, this will allow you to unplug the GM wireless charger if you have it and allow you access when you tap into the cigarette lighter for power to the aftermarket wireless charger. First remove the rubber tray from the bottom cutout/storage area, this exposes 2 of the 4 torx head screws that need to be removed. The other 2 screws are already exposed. All 4 torx head screws are T15. Once those are removed you need to pull up and away from the console to get the clips to come out, don't be afraid to use a little force as long as it's up and away from the console (not just straight back). Once the clips come out, unplug the cigarette lighter and set the cover to the side. Now unplug the GM wireless charger, it will be near the left arm. There is also a clip holding the wire in place, unclip this as well so the wire is loose and ready to be pulled out when you remove the lid. This video shows the screw removal and pulling out of the cover if you need it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iytvdK7VoIo&t=50s. 2. Remove underside of console lid, there are 10 total clips holding it in. 3 are on each outer edge (6 total) and 4 total toward the center. This video shows this process if you need it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXXWa4VT6lQ. 3. Remove 4 phillips head screws from the arms holding the lid in place (2 screws on each arm). Slowly pull the lid away as the electrical wire fishes through the arm on the driver side, keep pulling until it's out. 4. Remove the GM wireless charger by removing the 4 T15 tox head screws keeping it in place. Set the GM wireless charger to the side. 5. Grind/cut 5 total white studs, see pic below for stud locations. Clear off plastic debris from lid. 6. Going back to the GM wireless charger, remove the 5 T8 torx head screws from the metal side of the casing. This allows you to pull the black plastic side off to be used as a flush mounting area against the charging pad. The charging coil is stuck against the black plastic casing, as you remove the casing be sure to slowly pull the coil away from it. **You can use your own modified surface to provide a flat area for the aftermarket wireless charger to mount against, but if you don't use anything at all the rubber pad that the phone sits on will rest directly against the slightly uneven surface of the aftermarket charger. Keep in mind the top portion of the aftermarket wireless charger will be removed to sit as close against the lid as possible - this means the exposed charging wires/coils will be right up against the rubber phone pad. Using the black plastic casing from the GM charger, or your own modification, ensures a secure, flat surface area will be there for your phone. Up to you on how picky you are about this. 7. With the black plastic side of the GM wireless charger removed, secure it back in place with the 4 T15 torx head screws. 8. With the black plastic piece now secure, cut the side where the new wireless charger will mount. Be sure to keep it flush with the white plastic portion of the lid so the charger mounts as flush as possible. See pics below for reference. This creates a mess so I had a vacuum handy to clean up all the plastic debris. 9. Now time to install the aftermarket wireless charger. If you bought the same model I posted in the link, you will be removing the top portion of the charger case to get the wires/coils sitting as close to the charging pad as possible. There are 4 screws, 1 in each corner of the underside of the new charger. Remove the rubber feet to expose them. Now use a small phillips head screw driver to remove the screws. Once the screws are removed, you may have to slightly pry to get the top portion to unclip from the bottom portion. Mine unclipped fairly easily. 10. Plug the right angle USB C end of the charging wire into the pad and test it at this point if you already haven't done so (don't risk installing a bad charger or charging wire). Assuming everything works, lay the charger with the exposed charging coils against the console lid. Make sure the right angle charging wire is on the driver side of the lid as the wire will snake through some clip areas and into the drive side arm that holds the lid on. 11. Remove 5 total T15 torx head screws, 1 at the back of the lid, 2 by the lid latch, and 2 on each side of the middle section of the charging area. These will be used to secure the metal plumbers tape against the charger. See pics for reference. 12. Using the metal plumbers tape, measure and cut 3 total strands, 2 will make a "V" pattern over the long side of the charger and 1 will be used across the short, middle area of the charger. Again, see pics for reference. You may need to drill holes in the metal tape that better align to the screw holes, even though the tape has holes in it they didn't line up perfectly for me. 13. Make sure the charger is flush and square with the charging pad area, then tighten down all 3 metal tape strands. I molded them slight by hand to better hold the charger in place. Sucker won't move. 14. With the lid portion now done, it's time to move to the back of the console to install the DC converter with USB adapter. I used the cigarette lighter for power because it only gives power when the vehicle is on. For those concerned about "vampire power", or power being used even though the charger is not in use, there have been tests done about this and the draw is so miniscule it's not a concern. Plus in real world testing it hasn't killed my truck battery since I installed this. Moving on, first splice open the tape shroud around the cigarette lighter electrical wire. You need access to both wires and room for wire taps so make sure to go a few inches back from the plug. 15. Using the wire taps, secure the red wire from the DC adapter to the purple/yellow wire of the cigarette lighter. Then using another wire tap, secure the black wire from the DC adapter to the black wire of the cigarette lighter. See pics below for reference. 16. Grab the console lid and plug in the usb end of the charging cable to the DC adapter to test it. Make sure to turn your ignition to "on" so the line has power. If your phone charges you've done everything correctly. 17. Zip tie the DC adapter securely to the old GM charger wire if you have it, if not find another way to prevent the DC adapter from rattling inside your console. At this point you can either reinstall your console lid if you don't have a creaking sound problem or you can move to the next steps to stop the creaking. 18. After testing the charger, unplug the usb and bring the lid back to your work area. It's time to install felt to the problem areas that cause the plastic to creak when people press on the console lid. There are 10 areas where clips hold the bottom portion of the lid against the top portion. Cut pieces to stick over each clip mount. Once you stick them on, use a box cutter to cut slits for the clips to go in without a problem. Also it's a good idea to stick felt on the underside of the latch area, it would rub on the bottom portion of the lid - causing noise. See pics for reference. 19. Another problem area for creaking is where the metal arms on the console mount to the lid, they rub on each other. Measure and cut felt strips the length of the mounting area of the arms. The first felt area is inside the arm where it bends, making an "L" shape. The other area to apply felt is on the outside area of each arm. There will be 4 felt strips total, 2 wider strips that stick onto the "L" shape interior portion of each arm, and 2 thinner strips that stick onto the outside of each arm. Use the box cutter to poke holes where the mounting studs and screws go into the arms (4 holes on each arm). 20. Reinstall the console lid. With the new felt it will be a snug fit, but it will go into place. Don't be afraid to carefully use pressure to get the arms to seat properly into place. Then screw the 4 mounting screws back into the arms to hold the lid in place. 21. With the lid installed, carefully fish the charging cable wire through the driver side arm and into the back portion of the console where it will plug into the DC adapter. 22. Reinstall the bottom portion of the lid, this will be snug too as you have felt on the clip mounts. Apply pressure and they will all clip into place. 23. Move to the back portion of your console. Use a zip tie to secure the charging cable against the same hole the GM wireless charger wire was mounted to. You want to open the lid and test how much slack you need in the cable line before tightening down the zip tie. As the arm pivots it will need a little wire to move with it. Once you have a good idea of how much wire needs to freely move, you can coil up the rest of the cable and zip tie it into place so it won't cause noise as you drive. See pics for reference. 24. Reinstall the back portion of the console. You're now finished! Ask away if there are any questions!
  5. Thanks for taking the time to reply and even more thanks on the layman's explanation for my simpleton brain!
  6. Much appreciated TXGREEK! As someone else said it's disappointing to see a trusted brand/product be outperformed by so many other brands, but such is life. Once you become educated you then make the proper change. A little while back I switched to Amsoil for my gear oil in the diffs and their ATF for the T-case after researching and seeing great results with others. Wish I would have connected the dots sooner on my engine oil/filter, but now I know and will make the change. Thanks again!
  7. Nevermind guys, I somehow missed the first page. Everything is discussed in there. Got my answers and will be looking into other options outside of Mobil 1.
  8. Lol, I need layman's terms. What has the best results and what doesn't? Are you saying the difference is so negligible I should stay with the Mobil 1 filter?
  9. Grumpy, I read through the link you provided. It's well beyond my technical knowledge of oil/filters so I'm trying to understand which filter has the best results. Am I reading this portion right, that the Purolator Pure One had the best filtration results and the Mobil 1 had the worst (see the list below that I pulled from your link)? I've ran Mobil 1 oil and filters for years because they always came highly recommended, but if they've fallen off recently or never truly were that good I'm happy to make the switch to a better product. Any recommendations on your end? Purolator Pure One PL22500 > 5 micron Royal Purple @ 18/19 micron AMSOIL Ea017 20 micron. WIX/NAPA @ 22 micron AC Delco PF63E @ 23/24 micron. Mobil 1 M1-212A @ 25 micron
  10. I had some rocks kick up onto the heat shield, it's the perfect trap because they settle in certain areas and can't roll or pop back out. At certain RPM's I could hear them rattle, the exhaust was hitting the perfect note to get them to move around. Yours sounds much louder than what I experienced though. Have you tried tapping the heat shields with something to be absolutely certain there isn't anything that may be trapped on top of one of them? If there's no rattle when tapping I'm sorry to say I'm at a complete loss at what that noise is...would drive me nuts too.
  11. Give them the special coverage number, N192291660, and have them print it off for you. For some reason it's not easy to find using google. Did they specify that they don't see that special coverage or is it that your vehicle is not covered under it? If the latter, I am curious as to why.
  12. FWIW - I've got this exhaust on my 6.2L and love it. Perfect balance of rumble without being obnoxious.
  13. FYI - I updated the original post to include the trans filter part number and the exhaust part numbers (though removal of the exhaust isn't necessary - but up to you if you want them replaced). I also edited it to remove that I had my dealership reuse my trans filter because they didn't have it in stock at the time (they had recently replaced it as part of a triple flush cleaning). My dealership called me and said they got more in stock and wanted to replace mine to be safe, just had that done yesterday.
  14. That's awesome to hear. I've had countless members help me so I try to return the favor when I can. Safe travels and enjoy the 'new' truck!
  15. 30 miles from home on our first date night in months after having our firstborn, factory battery decided it didn't want my wife and I to get home. No warning, no sluggish starts or previous jumps. Went from no issues to completely dead. Fortunately my father-in-law was free and drove me to Autozone where I picked up an Odyssey 48-720T (AGM). Went with an Odyssey in my 1997 Wrangler and had zero issues in 6 years with it, figured I'd go with something I can trust. Got 4 years out of the factory battery. Was a pain to do it in the dark by the time we waited for him to pick us up, run me to Autozone, grab my tools, then get back to the truck...but it wasn't crazy hard to do. Helps I'm 6'4" though and could reach everything, would have had to stand on the tire otherwise. I've heard people say they put all the bars in the way to prevent theft, are stolen batteries still a thing?!?
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