midwestdenaliguy replied to thegarse's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraLol, this is NOT the norm for this forum. Please don't let it make you hesitate to post more and be active. Lots of people on here that don't get into public pissing matches. With that said, welcome to the GM 1500 club! While not all 8 speed transmissions are perfect, it'll need some time/miles to learn your driving habits. Hopefully the clunking will cool off, unfortunately no guarantee of that happening. I have a Denali with the 6.2L and 8 speed tranny - it drives really well. It's got a custom tune and is really fun to drive. Before the tune I thought it was a little slow at take off, but felt really good after getting up to speed. After the tune takeoff was much better, I get wheel hop now (looking at adding traction bars). I did a Magneride delete and installed a lift kit (2.5" front, 1" rear). Zero issues with the delete. Ride is still good, but my 33" all terrain tires made it a little stiffer due to being a 10 ply tire. Sounds like you're happy with your current suspension, but if you ever want to look at a different set up there's a ton of info on here. With the 6.2, always feed it 91+ octane and she'll be happy. You may also want to consider a fuel/air induction cleaning service depending on your mileage. These direct injection engines can build up oil in the intake. Not all engines wear the same, so you could be fine - just something to consider if you think the acceleration/idle could improve. Best wishes on your new truck. Hit us up with future updates!
Here's a couple pics, everything I've done to the truck is in my signature. Next projects are adding the intake cover over the manifold, installing my recently ordered catch can, and possibly doing traction bars (get wheel hop on WOT due to my tuning/upgrades). Topper makes sense to keep everything dry, I've been camping during torrential downpours and it sucks!
Looking good! Man I'd love to overland my truck in the desert (Moab is on my check list). I've got a small lift (2.5" front, 1" rear) and 33's so I could get away with it, but I wouldn't say it qualifies as an overland truck until I figure out something for the bed (tent? cap?). I restored a 1997 Wrangler a few years ago, but sold it last year. That was a real trail rig and I'd love to get another one. The Sierra Denali would only see open land overlanding and no tight trails/rocks only because it's so pricey (and pretty). Def want to do another Jeep build but that'll hold off until next year. Here's what I built...was bone stock to start. 3.5" lift, 35" mud terrains, quick disconnect sway bar, and the list goes on...
Carparts.com has some good front and back photos of the handle. Looks like if you were to drill/cut, the lower left corner is the spot to do it (looking at it from the outside). Nothing is behind it and it will get you direct access to one of the actuator rods. If your handle is not working either a rod popped off (rare) or something is broken and you need a new handle anyway. Check out the pics on their website: https://www.carparts.com/details/GMC/Sierra_1500/Replacement/Tailgate_Handle/2014/SLE/REPC580753.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjpjkBRDRARIsAKv-0O0kT3vJBo387OffWBoiCldke1-2_i64iuhmu9M5Enjz40l0t18GAiAaAl0IEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I've had mixed luck with replica wheels on past vehicles. Some with zero issues and others that vibrated no matter what was done to fix it. Now if I'm interested in a different wheel set up I keep my eye out for a clean, used set of OEM rims.
My only suggestion would be to drill and/or cut into the handle itself to be able to pull the rods that actuate the tailgate latch (I believe there's one coming from each side - 2 total). Not sure of exact locations on the handle of where to drill, but it's not thick and you could safely do it (slowly) without damaging any internal components. If your truck is a daily driver you'll obviously want to order a new tailgate handle ahead of time before jumping into this. OEM handles are all over eBay for $50-60. Good luck, I'd be in the same boat with my cover. No way to access the bed of the truck without seriously damaging the cover.
So $500 + shipping ($100+ for something of this size/weight) + $100 at your local paint shop = roughly $700 total. I'm left scratching my head as to why you feel my asking price is "really high." Wish I had a shop near me that would paint a grille for under $100, you've got a great deal there. Good luck finding the grille you want for the price you want.
Happy to consider an offer. Feel free to message me with one. I based the pricing off what I paid for the OEM grille and labor/material to have a professional dealer paint it, I'm losing money (which I'm ok with - just trying to recoup what I can). Here are what new 2016+ painted OEM grilles are going for on eBay right now (don't confuse them with the cheap chinese $300 knockoffs): $900 - Elevation grille painted white https://www.ebay.com/itm/84065168-2016-2018-GMC-Sierra-1500-OEM-Elevation-Front-Grille-painted-Summit-Wht/123675187262?fits=Model%3ASierra+1500|Make%3AGMC&hash=item1ccb9d983e%3Ag%3AtDQAAOSwPYpa6Gi6&LH_ItemCondition=3 $1050 - Denali grille painted black https://www.ebay.com/itm/23496245-OEM-2016-2018-GMC-Sierra-1500-Denali-Grille-Painted-Onyx-Black-GBA/123140137371?fits=Model%3ASierra+1500|Make%3AGMC&hash=item1cabb9619b%3Ag%3Ad6IAAOSw92Ra~gmi&LH_ItemCondition=3
Bizzump. Women will be throwing themselves at you if you install this grille, "I guarantee it." All the kids that made fun of you in school will be super jealous too...
midwestdenaliguy posted a topic in For Sale/WantedItem: 2016+ GMC Sierra Grille (Black) Condition: Brand New OEM Location: St. Louis, MO Description: Professionally painted GMC Sierra Grille that is a brand new take-off from an Elevation trim Sierra. It's factory matched to the Onyx Black paint code. I decided to go with a different grille and have this in the factory box. Price: $750 OBO (shipping to continental US included) See attached pictures.
I know you're referring to diyer2, but I want to be clear about me putting anti-seize on my brake bolts. It is only applied to the threads in a thin layer that won't glop onto any part of the pads/calipers. For the sliding pins I use grease for lubrication. I took the OP's question as what gets used on the threads. There is nothing wrong with blue threadlocker being used. I was just speaking from my experience of having rusted/seized bolts in the past and never having an issue with bolts coming loose after applying anti-seize on the threads. This is hotly debated in a lot of automotive forums. There are guys who use nothing, guys who have used anti-seize for 30+ years with no issues, and guys who have only used threadlocker. The real question is does blue threadlocker prevent rusting (the OP said he lives in NY where they salt their roads)? From other replies on this thread, people are saying it has the same properties as anti-seize and won't allow rusting. Living in an area with salted roads and precipitation throughout winter, I think we can all agree applying nothing is a mistake unless you replace your brakes often. To the OP, sounds like applying blue threadlocker should do the trick based on what others are saying about it preventing rust. You'll have peace of mind that the bolts won't come out and should not have a rust issue next time you do your brakes.
First car I owned and did brakes on I didn't use anti-seize. The next time I went to do them everything was rusted and seized on, including the caliper bolts. Had to drill out a caliper bolt and added hours/pain to a simple job. This was also when I lived in Michigan so they were exposed to long, salty winters. Ever since then I've put anti-seize on. Never had an issue in 18 years and the various vehicles I've owned - all bolts were still tight every time I went to do the brakes again. I get that logically it doesn't make sense to replace locktite with anti-seize, but in my experience if you live in a northern climate with lots of salt and snow you'll save yourself a headache by using anti-seize. But if you don't trust not having locktite on your caliper bolts, it's your vehicle, have at it. I could see in southern climates not having to worry as much about rust so anti-seize might not be necessary.
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