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midwestdenaliguy last won the day on August 9 2018

midwestdenaliguy had the most liked content!

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About midwestdenaliguy

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    St Louis, MO
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  • Drives
    2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500
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    Other Vehicles:
    2008 Cadillac Escalade (Sold)
    1997 Jeep Wrangler (Sold)
    2007 GMC Envoy Denali (Sold)
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Sold)
  1. Turnover is a good point, although both these dealerships are multi-generation, family owned. I'm sure they see turn at lower levels, but most managers and the owners have been the same family for almost 40 years. I bought the truck directly from the original owners grandson. It was still under all the warranties when I bought it, but this issue showed up after they expired (naturally).
  2. I've got a 2016 so it's a 3 year/60k mile powertrain warranty, I'm at 77k miles. I wouldn't have done all this work myself if it was still under warranty. Fortunately, I've got a dealer near me with a really good service advisor who's going to bat for me with GM. He's confident I'll get some help from them, just not 100% payment. I called the dealer I bought the truck from seeing if they can help at all, and I got the cold shoulder. It amazes me how they butter you up when you're interested to buy, then you're dead to them when you're out of warranty. I was courteous and did not demand that they pay for my repairs (I know I'm out of warranty), just looking for any help whatsoever since I'm not too far out of it and the fact that I just gave them $39k less than a year ago. Nope, nothing they are willing to do. I know that's not the case for all dealers though. Fortunately, I found this other dealer who actually cares about their customers and wants to build a lasting relationship. The dealer I bought from told me I would be paying $165/hour to diagnose and I'd have to pay $30/day for the loaner car they'd be giving me. The advisor at this new dealer told me I'd have the loaner for free and diagnosis is a flat $75. This advisor knows what he's doing by taking care of me now, eventually I'll be getting a new vehicle between me or my fiancee and guess who I'll give the first shot to, this new dealer. Same goes for any future service that I don't want to do myself.
  3. Thanks. My gut's telling me that's the case for me, but hoping I'm wrong. When I read the conditions for PIP5498 my stomach sank because it perfectly described what's going on with mine. I've pretty much replaced everything but the head to fix this thing. Finally gave in and have an appointment for Monday at a dealer nearby. They'll do the dye test as well as check cylinder pressure for valve leaks and let me know what they find.
  4. Sorry, I meant more specifically what work they actually performed. Did they replace one cylinder head or both? Did you get all new valves, etc. with the new head(s)? What is leaving me scratch my head is that I do not see any coolant leaking from the head bolts and my oil is not milky (I change it). I am not noticing any significant usage of coolant in the reservoir either, maybe a little loss but it's very minimal. 77k, I cleaned the intake valves but am taking it in Monday to have the exhaust valves tested for leaks. We'll see...
  5. I now this post is from a few months ago, but hoping you see this. I'm fearful this may be what's going on with my truck (I've replaced all injectors and a ton of other stuff - still getting rough cold start). What happened with yours?
  6. Just looked it up, cheapest one is $870 on eBay right now. Looks like you bought at the right time!
  7. No catch can. The intake valve 1 picture is the best representation of my 77k mile engine build up (3 is not accurate due to the injector failure). I did the BG air fuel induction cleaning service right before I pulled the intake off, but I have no idea what they looked like before the BG service. I can tell you that I do not use oil though. I do my own changes and there's always a hair under 8 quarts that drains out (obviously some oil will still be on parts in the crankcase and some sticks to the oil pan I drain into), so I'm not getting any blow by. Not arguing against a catch can, but if I'm not using oil I'm not sure why I would invest in one. I get why others would do it for preventative measures or if they're using oil though.
  8. Man, wish I had heard sooner that GM has this version. I paid $850 for my BAK Revolver X2. Absolutely love it and it has performed flawlessly, but would have been glad to save $200 for the exact GM version of it. Do you have a part number by chance? I looked on eBay and couldn't find anything.
  9. All went well this weekend. Took a little longer than I wanted, but that's to be expected with any first time job like this (for me anyway). Learned a few things and know how to tackle this much faster next time, hoping there isn't a next time though. Injector 3 and the intake valve for 3 were NASTY (pics below). All other injectors and intake valves had build up, but nothing compared to 3. Crazy as it sounds, I had 2 issues happening at the same time (hence why I got P0303 and P0106 codes). Fuel injector 3 was failing on me and same for my purge valve solenoid. I got all the injectors and fuel lines swapped out on Saturday and the truck started and drove beautifully that night and on Sunday. Come Monday, I started it to go to work and holy sh*t, it had a rough cold start. Threw the P0106 code again so I figured my next step was the purge valve solenoid since I had replaced both the MAF/MAP sensors and couldn't find a leak in any hoses/lines. Swapped out the purge valve solenoid and now I haven't had a rough start since. I'll write a How-To when I get a chance. Hopefully in the next week or so. So here's the injector on 3, and the intake valve on 3 compared to 1. There was definite blow back as well as MAJOR build up partially blocking 3 from pulsing properly. I'm guessing the build up would harden enough over night or after sitting all day that it would cause misfires in 3 on start up, but soften as it warmed up and then be good. I'm also guessing seals were going bad. Anyway, all intakes looked like 1, except the dark cavernous hell that awaited me in 3. Keep in mind my truck had 77k miles on it when I took the pics of the intakes. INJECTOR 3 INTAKE VALVE 3 INTAKE VALVE 1
  10. A few things to consider: 1. There are guys in Ford and Ram forums who have and will be posting this exact same thread about their respective trucks. They'll even proclaim how they're going to one of the other brands, just as you have. Unfortunately, they all have their issues. Earlier this week I was getting my truck washed and detailed when I noticed the guy in front of me had a beautiful 2018 Silverado 1500 All-Terrain. I struck up a conversation with him and guess what, he had just jumped ship from Ford. He had 3 different F-150's, all with problems and he got sick of it. Said he's put on about 5k miles on the Silverado and couldn't be happier - he specifically called out how the Silverado rides much better than any of his F-150's. 2. You say your truck is 4 years old so it's either a 2014 or 2015. Any time you purchase within the first year or two of a complete redesign you are going to see the most problems. This goes for ALL brands. As the years go on within that design, they engineer out most of the problems. 3. I agree with some of the issues happening too early (like the injectors), but you didn't change out your tranny fluid when it was recommended. Instead you went almost double the amount past the recommendation. While that may not always cause complete failure of the transmission, it certainly doesn't help and is a possibility. 4. As others have pointed out, the dealer you work with does not sound like they are treating you fairly. Ignoring the 4X4 grinding sound and then replacing your entire rear end for a leak sounds off to me. Also the price you paid for their work is astronomical, even for a dealer. Sucks you're stuck with them for warranty work, but anything outside of that go elsewhere. Whatever you decide, wish you nothing but the best.
  11. Pulled frame vs new. 2018 ltz

    From your post it sounds like they just went ahead and pulled it without talking to you first. If that's the case I'd argue that I want a new frame, not your fault they didn't talk to you first. The idea of the repairs is to get it back in the same condition as it was prior to the accident (if not better). Your frame integrity is now less than what it was prior to the accident. Argue safety concerns until you're blue in the face.
  12. All parts were ordered and arrive starting today through Friday. Assuming no shipping delays, I'll be replacing all 8 injectors and 3 fuel lines on Saturday. Below are the OEM part numbers and prices I paid in case anyone else wants to do this job. You want all brand new OEM parts for this that have never been installed, no takeoffs or non-oem because they can leak or go bad quickly. Be sure to double check your VIN against these part numbers with a dealership, you don't want to be installing the wrong parts for your set-up. I confirmed all of these part #'s against my VIN with my dealer - NOTE that I have the 6.2L L86 engine. Dealer pricing was naturally much higher for most parts, so I searched online for better pricing. Obviously this pricing can vary depending when and where you look, so don't expect these exact numbers. I'll be doing a How-To write up on this assuming all goes well. Dealers want $1500-$2000 to do this job, I'll be spending $422.43 for the parts and a couple hours of my time to do it myself. Budget for the right tools if you don't have them: socket/wrench set and a torque wrench are required. You don't need the injector teflon seal sizing tool if you buy the injectors brand new (the tool is extremely expensive because it's a specialty tool - $200+). The only other tool to consider is an injector puller, but that's only needed if the injectors are really stuck. You should be able to pull them off by hand, but be careful not to yank like crazy. The fuel pipe/line fittings have to be torqued to spec (21 ft/lbs) due to this being a high pressure system. Too little torque and it'll spray fuel - too tight and you risk damaging the stainless steel and causing a leak. The rest of the torque specs will be included in my How-To write up. Injectors Part # 12668393 - $319 on eBay from seller 'fuel-injectors' (national wholesaler of injectors who flow match and test all new injectors in the set for perfect pairing - come with 1 year ACDelco warranty) Fuel Lines Part # 12677002 (Intermediate #1 Fuel Pipe – Crossrail Line/Connects Between Rails) - $41.02 on eBay Part # 12677004 (Intermediate #2 Fuel Pipe – From High Pressure Pump to Crossrail Line) - $23.42 on eBay Part # 12618338 (Fuel Feed Pipe w/check valve - Connects to High Pressure Pump from Low Pressure Fuel Line) - $38.99 on eBay
  13. BG didn't foul them up, they were already going bad. All the tech would have to do is check my code history and see they started before the BG service. BG has actually helped, the cold start issue doesnt happen as often, my mpg's have gone up, and the throttle response is better. I've got a bad injector or two so I'm just replacing them all before they get worse. Also, this is a good chance to see how much (or little) the BG service actually cleaned the back of my valves since I'll have the intake pulled off.
  14. I agree, I was just as surprised. We just need someone to get aftermarket injectors for an LT1 and try them in their L86, maybe you SS502??? ;-)
  15. 2014 Chev Silverado

    Congrats and welcome!

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