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midwestdenaliguy

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midwestdenaliguy last won the day on August 9 2018

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  1. Happy to help. You inspired me to finally get my How-To posted on replacing fuel injectors. I couldn't find a write-up on how to do it when I replaced mine last year, so I wrote one myself. Give it a read and decide if this is something you want to tackle yourself.
  2. I ran into a rough start/misfire issue last year and ended up replacing my fuel injectors. I started a thread when I was troubleshooting it because I could not find any complete instructions, write-ups, how-to's, etc. on how to replace the injectors in our DI engines. In the thread I mentioned that I would post a how-to in this forum, appreciate everyone who chimed in to help. I try to give back because I have saved countless time and money learning from a lot of you. This took longer to post than I wanted thanks to having my firstborn (poor guy gets blamed for a lot of stuff - mainly farts), but here's the how-to on replacing injectors! Below is a step by step guide on how to replace the fuel injectors on a 6.2L (L86) direct injection engine for the K2XX platform. If you have a different engine/platform you'll want to do your own research to ensure the replacement is done properly. DISCLAIMER: I consider myself handy and have the right tools to do a lot of jobs on my vehicles - but I am not a certified technician. I spend a LOT of time researching and asking questions before I do any repairs. This is the result of online research, talking to people in this forum, and talking to technicians that I personally know. I also grew up fixing cars with my family - who are engineers with GM. If you do not have confidence in replacing fuel lines and/or opening up the intake portion of your engine then you should let a professional do this work. You will need the following tools: - Torque wrench for both ft/lb and in/lb specs. - Socket set with extensions and a swivel adapter if you have one. There are some tight spots that you have to get to for bolts and a swivel adapter made it much easier. - Trim removal kit, not critical but makes it much easier. This really helped with a set of push on clips for a wiring harness that's behind the intake manifold. - MAF and throttle body cleaner if you want to clean your intake while it's apart, not critical though. - Blue loctite for high pressure fuel pipe fittings. - C-shaped fuel line removal tool, not required but greatly helps in quick removal of low pressure fuel pipe (can borrow a kit from an auto parts store). You will need the following parts (again this is for the 6.2L L86 engine - yours could be different if you have a different engine/platform). GM says you must replace the fuel pipes after removing them, they may leak fuel if reinstalling old fuel pipes: - Fuels injectors part # 12668393 - Intermediate #1 Fuel Pipe (crossrail that connects both fuel rails) part # 12677002 - Intermediate #2 Fuel Pipe (from crossrail fuel pipe to high pressure fuel pump) part # 12677004 - Fuel feed pipe w/check valve (from high pressure fuel pump to low pressure fuel line) part # 12618338 Steps to replace fuel injectors (pics/diagrams attached to provide visual aid). Carefully remove everything in these steps as they are tied to the intake of your engine - don't rush it. Clean off top of engine before starting removal as debris can seriously damage your engine if it falls into the intake: 1. With truck off, pull fuel pump fuse from main fuse box in engine bay (fuse #21). 2. Start the truck and let it run until it stalls out (can happen within a few seconds or take as much as 30 seconds). This ensures fuel is run out of the fuel lines and the fuel pumps/lines have no pressure. If you do not do this step the high pressure lines you will be removing can spray fuel everywhere and cause damage/injury. 3. After truck stalls out, shut it off and unhook the battery so the truck has no power. 4. Remove resonator box/intake tube going into throttle body. 2 clamps are loosened - 1 at the throttle bottle and 1 at air box. Disconnect MAF sensor electrical connection on intake tube by air box. Disconnect both driver and passenger clean-side fittings (removed by pressing on the light gray plastic strip and squeezing it together and pulling the fitting off the barb). Resonator box is now free to pull out of engine bay. Lots of videos on Youtube show how to do this is you're still unsure. 5. Disconnect PCV hose fitting next to throttle body (same style fitting as clean-side fittings on resonator box). 6. Remove throttle body (1 electrical connection and 4 bolts). 7. Unclip electrical wiring harnesses that run along both sides of the intake manifold (3 plastic push clips on each side). Trim removal tool can be helpful here, but mine pulled out fairly easily by hand. 8. Remove 5 intake manifold bolts on each side (10 total). They are finicky to get completely out as they have a little catch ring on them to not easily fall out of the intake manifold. If you can't wiggle it completely out, just make sure it's not fastened to the engine block any more and leave them in the manifold - you can still remove the manifold with them loosely in it. 9. This part was a pain - but slightly lift up intake manifold and pull toward you as much as you can. This will give you *some* room, not much, to reach behind the intake manifold and pull out 4 more of the push style clips holding the electrical wiring harness to the back of the intake manifold. It's tight because the manifold is right up against the firewall. I used a trim removal tool to get leverage on the clips and pull them out. It'll be a pain to remove some of them, don't be afraid to give it some muscle. (See pic below showing where clips are located) 10. With the bolts and clips all removed you can now lift the manifold off the top of the engine. Remove the black foam pad under the manifold to expose the fuel lines/rails. Be careful and try not to drop debris in the intake openings. 11. Tape off or put clean rags in your intake openings to prevent anything from falling in while you remove the fuel lines, rails, and injectors. 12. Unplug the electrical connections to the fuel rails (on the ends by the firewall). 13. Remove the 3 fuel lines from the high pressure fuel pump and 2 fuel rails (see pic below for fuel line/rail set up on the 6.2L L86). The 2 high pressure fuel pipes should have loctite on them, but they break loose fairly easily. I borrowed a fuel line removal kit from Autozone for the low pressure fuel line, it clicks into barb fittings. The low pressure fuel line (rests just above the driver side fuel rail and clips into the high pressure fuel pump) has a special fitting on each side of the pipe that is a pain to release without a special tool. The tool itself is a plastic 'c' shaped clip that goes around the fuel line and pushes into the pipe end, releasing it. 14. Slowly pull out each fuel rail, I had to firmly wiggle them but they came out by hand. 15. Look in each injector port and make sure there's no debris/crap in there. If you see anything try using a vacuum hose to suck it out or use something to swab out any debris. You want the injector ports clean so the teflon gaskets on the injectors seat properly in the port. 16. Swap your old injectors with the new injectors on the fuel rails. There's a metal clip on each injector holding it against the rail that can be a pain to take off and put back on, but you need them so don't damage them. I used a flathead screwdriver to pry them off, they clipped back on easily. 17. Reverse these steps to put it all back together. Make sure you torque all bolts and pipe fittings to spec or else you risk damage and/or leaks. Below is a pic of the torque specs, I highlighted the ones you need. 18. Start truck up and pray you did everything correctly. 19. If you drink, crack open a cold beer and take pride in your work and saving big bucks. If you don't drink, crack open a cold apple juice and take pride in your work and saving big bucks.
  3. FYI - I've removed the bumper on my 2016 Sierra and it's a little more involved than the Silverado bumpers. The Sierra's have a trim piece between the bumper and grille that has to be removed first. There are tabs that have to be released from behind the trim piece. I used a long flat head screwdriver to go up behind the trim and release each tab. You also have to loosen the wheel well liners (front portion only) in order to remove screws from each side of the trim piece. Once the trim piece is off you then have access to the bumper bolts. Not terrible, but tedious. Everything else is fairly easy after that, all bolts and screws. The trim piece is MUCH easier going back in, the tabs just lock in place when you push the trim piece in.
  4. Appreciate the update. This is the closest I could find to covering most of the bumper, but it's still not 100% coverage. And while the picture looks cool, I can't find a single pic of it actually being used. I'm afraid it might look like a cheap wal-mart auto section stick on mod. Plus at their price point, plus shipping, I might as well get the front bumper repainted and add a clear bra. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-16-18-Sierra-1500-Air-Design-Front-Bumper-Guard-w-DRL-Lights-Black-GM28A04/203034867713?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D0e27f2a99cec43baaff166815f2d9f83%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D283940383278%26itm%3D203034867713%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DAir+Design&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A35ad5062-d0ff-11ea-a15e-528baece0500|parentrq%3A96a8cf631730a4d6adaa2c1cffe4cc58|iid%3A1
  5. Replaced both differentials and transfer case fluids yesterday. Here's my transfer case plug. Bought truck with 55k miles and was told it was changed by the dealer. Silly me I didn't ask for the record from the dealership as it looked like all the plugs had the original factory blue loctite on them when I did the job yesterday. Both differential plugs were really clean though, almost nothing on them so who knows. Truck currently has 110k miles on it, so this transfer case plug is either all original miles or roughly 55k miles on it assuming it was actually changed when I bought it. Will definitely be changing more often, appreciate the discussion here.
  6. Any luck finding a front bumper solution? I have a 2016 Sierra and it's the same front bumper as your 2018. Bumpershellz only has the 2014-2015 Sierra front bumpers. I've got a factory painted front bumper, but it's chipped like a mofo. Looking to cover it up.
  7. Unless I know the seller personally, or they have receipts from a reputable shop, I avoid buying lifted vehicles. Too many idiots out there who don't do it right or beat the crap out of it without doing proper maintenance. Go stock and then shop around for the lift that suits you best (if that's what you want), then install it yourself or go with a shop you trust. Then you'll know it's done right.
  8. I don't know for sure, but having completely removed my Magneride suspension and replacing with an all new kit (not Magneride - it's from Halolifts), the front Magneride coilover struts don't look any different than a standard one. I would think you are able to compress the spring, remove the old Mag shock and replace with your Bilstein shock. The only thing that makes the Mag shock special is the plug in the top, not other components from what I can tell. But like I said, I swapped mine for an entire kit that included all new front coilovers/shocks already assembled. I just swapped them in and out real quick using just the bolts. And FWIW, I use the X-ineering kit too for the electronics side and haven't had any issues - great product.
  9. I assume you mean the two teflon seals on the tip that goes into the intake...yes they were on mine when they arrived. I asked the same thing before I ordered mine and they confirmed they are new and I won't have any seal issues. I would ask the seller before you buy just to have peace of mind. The gasket on the other end of the injector is a standard rubber o-ring. Mine came with those as well, but would be super cheap to buy them if they arrived without them.
  10. How often do you swap? Any particular reason you swap so often? You've got me nervous about sticking to routine factory intervals...
  11. This listing might not contain exactly what you need, but I bought all 8 injectors from this seller last year when I swapped mine out. They know their stuff and they are brand new OEM injectors. They can confirm which set you need by your VIN. Mine have performed flawlessly in the ~30k miles since installing them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-8-BRAND-NEW-OEM-Fuel-Injectors-GM-Trucks-5-3L-2014-17-12668390/192169388605?hash=item2cbe302a3d:g:98IAAOSw37BaV3Bf
  12. You get any rocks or other items rattling inside the plates? My heat shields are notorious for trapping pebbles and I hear rattling. I've had to bend my heat shields to prevent stuff from kicking up inside them. Curious if anything rattles inside the plates. Thanks!
  13. I assume not since they have fasteners that clip into holes along the side of the fender. Also, I believe the Sierra fender is partially recessed along the wheel well to allow the trim piece to sit flush. I could be wrong because I haven't looked at a Silverado fender up close, but based on pictures I don't see how it would attach.
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