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midwestdenaliguy last won the day on August 9 2018

midwestdenaliguy had the most liked content!

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  • Name
  • Location
    St Louis, MO
  • Interests
    Other Vehicles:
    2008 Cadillac Escalade (Sold)
    1997 Jeep Wrangler (Sold)
    2007 GMC Envoy Denali (Sold)
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Sold)
  • Drives
    2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500

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midwestdenaliguy's Achievements


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  1. Man, I forgot about the spongy feel when I first got the truck. It's been tuned for so long I forgot what it was like in the 'before times' lol. The feel and sound is so satisfying after a tune and swapping out for a performance CAI and exhaust.
  2. I use it on my 6.2L and I'm happy with it. I purchased a custom tune from Diablew as well. He has you record a few logs, running on the highway, wide open throttle, etc. and then he takes that data and builds you a tune to optimize your preferences (towing, MPG, etc.). The Diablosport has canned tunes in them, and they're good, but your biggest gains will come from a custom tune. You can do more with HP Tuners, like CamGTP mentioned they use. But there is a learning curve and you have to purchase certificates to do certain things, so it can get pricey if you want to do a lot. You can also use HP Tuners on multiple vehicles if you want. Diablosport can only be used on one vehicle, it's tied to the VIN. So you have to buy a new unit for each vehicle if you want to keep the tune on them. If you want a quick option without a learning curve and only have one vehicle you want to use it on, then Diablosport is best for you. If you don't mind taking time to learn how to customize and may want to use it on other vehicles, then HP Tuners is best.
  3. The $184 camera has a larger viewing angle on all sides compared to the factory camera. So the question is, is paying $56 more for a slightly better and larger image worth it to you? I'm personally on the fence. I'd like to know how the $184 camera performs at night. To me that's where the factory camera is weakest. I'd gladly pay $184 if it's better at night.
  4. Resistors are only needed for blinker bulbs. My truck came with the factory LED head and tail lights so I only needed LED bulbs for the reverse lights in the tails and cargo/third brake lights.
  5. I just slid the rods between the seat and the back of the cabin. I ended up taking it out as it easily moved when people touched it. Didn't want to keep adjusting it. I also made no effort to secure it, so maybe you could find a way.
  6. You might already know or have all of this, but I did a write-up on replacing the 6.2L fuel injectors and lines. Included torq specs as well. Wasn't a bad job. Good luck.
  7. My guess is because the mounting screws on the ends of the housing are closer to the cargo lights they keep a tighter seal. While the middle where the brake light is has a weaker seal. Complete guess though. I'd replace your seal to be safe. First thing I did when I bought the truck was replace all the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. I've never had any go out prematurely. If you replace them with incandescent bulbs don't touch them with your bare fingers, the oil on them can cause premature failure. I just replaced my cargo/brake light seal since the truck is now 6 years old and I go through a car wash about once a week. Don't want to take any chances with leaks into the cabin. It's cheap insurance.
  8. The trailer brake control module mounted under the bed (by the spare tire) gave me DIC messages. I can't recall if it was a wiring message though, I think it said 'service trailer brake system'. When I replaced it I noticed the pins were corroded, so I put bulb grease on the pins of the new one (dumb location as it gets covered with dirt and water). It didn't effect trailer lighting either. But it doesn't sound like this is the issue for you, figured I'd mention it though in case you run out of troubleshooting options. Part # for the module is 23337305. Good luck figuring it out.
  9. Thanks for the reply Mike! I also posted in a AutoSync Technical facebook group and got all my answers there. You can run just the AutoSync and a BCM unlock is not required. The key fob programming is built into the AutoSync, so BCM unlock is not required. They also confirmed ECM/TCM tunes are untouched, like you said (and yes I did delete the AFM with the tuner). Finally, the suspension OBII bypass module can be ran simultaneously with the AutoSync using their OBII splitter. Like you, they also said the BCM unlock is well worth the extra features. I'll look into that once I get the AutoSync and play around with it. Overall, what are some of your favorite features?
  10. Found a couple threads that talked about the AutoSync module, but couldn't find all my answers. Seems like an awesome tool to unlock a lot of new features. Here's a link to it: https://www.btdieselworks.com/collections/autosync/products/2015-2018-autosync. I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 6.2L and an I06 radio. Here are my questions: The AutoSync G2 K2xx (2014-2016) comes with pre-loaded features and purchasing BCM programming is *optional* if I want to gain additional features? Said another way, can I just get the AutoSync now and see if I like it's feature then get the BCM programming later if I want to add more features? My main reason to purchase the AutoSync was to program 2 new key fobs. Is that a feature built into the AutoSync or would I need to purchase the BCM programming as well? I currently have a custom tune on my truck (Diablo Tuner). Will installing the AutoSync erase my tune files? If so, can I put them back on and run both? I have a magneride suspension bypass kit from Xineering installed (lifted my truck and installed passive suspension). It is plugged into my OBII port at all times. If I get the OBII splitter can I keep both the suspension bypass kit and the AutoSync plugged in at the same time? What has been your experience overall with the AutoSync? Worth $300+? Thanks!
  11. Hi Luke, sorry for the delay. I don't have alerts set up. I have not done the notches yet. If you look at the existing notches you'll notice the bottom notch is shaped different in order to keep it from coming all the way out. You'd need to open that notch angle a little bit to match the notch above it. Then add as many notches as you want as long as they are close to the angle of the factory notches. On the most bottom notch you'd add, make sure it looks like the last notch from the factory (flat angle on the bottom side) so it doesn't slide all the way out. It's on my to do list, but life keeps interrupting lol. I'll circle back once I do it. A dremel and a die grinder bit should work just fine. Dremel also makes metal cutting discs, I'll probably start with those then smooth anything out with a die grinding bit. Good luck.
  12. You'll be spending between $1k-1.5k to install new Magneride shocks all around (depends on sales/availability). That can get you a nice aftermarket set up if you want to spend that much. To me, the Mag system is not worth the price for trucks/suvs (Corvette/Camaro is a different story). I've had Mag on my current truck (2016 Sierra Denali) and a 2008 Cadillac Escalade. Found aftermarket options that rode better. If you end up getting a bypass kit to remove the DIC error message, this will open you up to ALL aftermarket options and allow you to spend as little or as much as you want.
  13. I would assume it's the same, but ask them to be sure (http://xineering.com/index.html#CONTACT). They were AWESOME to work with on my Denali. Answered all my questions in a timely manner and made sure I was happy with the set up. Highly recommend Xineering's kit. I can also vouge for the Halo Lifts kit, I replaced all of my MRC system with their full kit and it's still going strong after 50k+ miles. Here's a review I did on my new wheel/suspension set up (at the time):
  14. JimCost2014 nailed it on the head with his first reply, it comes down to the service manager. I've lived in 6 different states and most service managers I've had were not great. I finally struck gold with the one I have now. There has been ~$7k of work done outside of warranties and I've only had to pay ~$500 out of pocket. My service manager got GM to cover the rest. So in my case GM covered 97% of all my repairs outside of warranty. Most of that total came from 2 major repairs, bent pushrod like you and both heads leaking coolant into the intake. The entire top end of my engine was rebuilt with new parts at around 72k miles (60k is warranty limit). If it wasn't for my service manager I would no longer be a GM owner. He's had my back the entire time I've owned this truck. Personally, I wouldn't settle for 30% from the dealership. I think you've got an argument that the camshaft had lobe issues after the first or second repair under warranty. It took a little while to show back up, but to have the same issue 3 times to me says it's more than coincidence. It's a negotiation at this point and the dealership gave you their first offer at 30%. I'd push for more help from them and ask they get GM involved as well and try to match their help at a minimum. Maybe you'll land at 40% dealership, 40% GM, 20% your pocket.
  15. +1 on this. It's not often, but it has happened a handful of times to my passenger mirror only over the 3 years I've owned the truck. Not enough of a problem for me to pull it apart or buy a new one, but it was the same issue you describe. Didn't hear any gears catching/stripping or a motor making a weird noise. I would guess it's an intermittent electrical issue where the mirror doesn't receive the signal. Mine didn't move or make a sound the few times it's happened. I just hit the button two more times to sync up both mirrors and it's always corrected itself. Sorry, not sure what exactly is going on.
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