Do my own oil and fluid changes on the truck for all the same reasons stated above by the DIY'ers (done right, cost, etc.). I use Mobil 1 FS advanced mileage 0W-20 and a Mobil 1 FS filter. For $60 I get two 5 quart jugs and the filter delivered to my door through wal-mart.com (only have to purchase one 5 quart jug every 3 oil changes so it's $35 then - averages to about $51/oil change). I've got it down to about 20 minutes to do the oil change. I have lifetime free tire rotations through the shop where I bought my newest tires. FWIW on other fluids, I bought amsoil severe gear oil for my diffs and transfer case for around $100, dealer wants $250 to do it. Only fluids I don't do are coolant and transmission (only because the tranny on my 8-speed is a closed system and dealer can only do it). We pay for my wife's sedan to get the oil done at the dealer because they only charge $25, not worth my time for that cheap and she's not as picky as I am.
I am in the same boat as you, truck is my only vehicle right now so I researched the crap out of how to do the injectors. I got it all done on a Saturday morning, so don't stress about not having your truck operational for long. Sold my Wrangler last year and definitely miss a second vehicle for when you want to mess around with one of them and not worry about not having something to drive.
Welcome Salty504. Sorry your first post is about an issue, but that's usually why people join these forums - to troubleshoot what's going on. First, I wouldn't completely rule out coolant in your intake/cylinders. Just borescoping it might not show the coolant, they need to perform a dye test - it'll show even the smallest amounts of coolant (dye glows under black light). The coolant leaks can be the size of a needle and only allow very small drops, something the human eye can miss. Unfortunately, I went through this a couple months ago that resulted in both my cylinder heads getting replaced. The casting for the heads was not done properly in some cases and it results in coolant leaking into the cylinder and throwing the P050D code along with a rough cold start. As you pointed out though, it could just be a bad injector. I would first get the dye test to confirm there is or is not any coolant in your cylinder(s). If they don't get any glow then I would have them replace all injectors. You're doing all the same work to just replace one injector, might as well do them all while it's open. If you're handy with tools and work on your vehicles I'll be posting a write-up on how to replace the injectors soon. Best of luck with your situation.
According to the dealer invoice I received when they did this last week, parts (new TC and updated fluid) and labor (doing triple flush cleaning, installing new TC, and reprogramming Tranny with updated software) was $1900. GM covered it.
No problem, totally understand. Just don't make the mistake I did and buy one of the cheap knockoff black grilles on eBay for $300. They're super flimsy plastic and mine stripped when mounting it, I was being super careful too. Fortunately I was able to return it and get my money back. Hope you find the deal you're looking for.
Yeah they have a team of lawyers and actuaries that analyze it for them and make recommendations. The link I posted about the person suing GM over their accident was in reply to your statement "Apparently this issue has not caused anyone to rear-end another vehicle". Could this brake issue never result in death? Sure. Are my wife and I willing to be the first death that forces this to be a full blown recall? Nope. If your point is that people make a bigger deal out of simple fixes more than they should, I won't argue there...it happens too often. But any issues related to my brakes are something I just won't mess with. If it was a design issue the automaker should make it right. GM is attempting to do that with this extended warranty, although I'd argue they should replace them all...but I'm not an actuary :-)
Did a very quick google search and found this lawsuit where the driver claims the brake issue caused him to crash into another vehicle... https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2017/gm-brake-pedals-hard.shtml
Agreed, and maybe there are varying degrees of firmness. When mine did it twice I had to nearly stand on the pedal to get to it stop both times, I'm 6'4" 215lbs. My wife occasionally drives the truck and with her not used to driving it on top of the amount of pressure you had to put on the pedal (she's 75 pounds lighter than me) she may not have stopped it. I didn't take any chances and had it replaced immediately - that was 8 months/20k miles ago and hasn't happened again with the redesign.
It's a global extended warranty and impacts trucks from all over (not just Canada) - see the embedded thread below. My understanding is they will only replace the brake vacuum pump if it displaying issues, but it doesn't hurt to ask your dealer. The problem is that it loses vacuum and the brake pedal becomes extremely hard to push in and stop. Fortunately it seems to only happen at slow speeds, but scary nonetheless. I had the issue happen late last year and paid out of pocket because I was out of warranty. A redesigned pump replaces the original so it won't happen again. Due to this extended warranty I am currently in the process of getting reimbursed from my dealer ($775).
Definitely dirt was the issue. My father-in-law and I live 10 minutes apart and take all the same highways and main roads to go to work, run errands, etc. The only difference on our drives is his final stretch of road to get home is on a dirt road. We'll be replacing his second set of pads/rotors this weekend at 75k miles while my factory set is still going at 85k miles. FWIW - I've been to Mexico 3 times, with another trip there coming up in a month. Never had an issue, just have to be smart about when/where you travel. Just like any other bad areas in the states.
midwestdenaliguy replied to Abonino's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraSapaugh Buick GMC in Herculaneum, MO (south of St Louis). They have been fantastic to work with anytime I've give in. Looks like a class action is moving forward with multiple states if your dealer doesn't have success with GM. Not sure how you get involved in the lawsuit though... https://www.autoblog.com/2019/04/25/gm-transmission-class-action-lawsuit/
midwestdenaliguy replied to Abonino's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraWelp, I made it 84k miles in my 2016 Sierra (6.2L, 8 speed) with zero transmission issues until I started to get a shutter on light acceleration and/or under load. It wasn't a horrible shutter, but definitely enough to get the attention of my wife and me. Dealer just replaced my torque converter and put in the updated fluid (paid courtesy of GM - $1900). Shutter is now gone, hopefully it stays that way. The dealership I use told me they have not had to replace any valve bodies yet on the 8 speeds that come in for the acceleration shutter - the torque converter replacement and new fluid has fixed them all so far. Interesting to see that is not the case for everyone on here. Coincidentally, the day I took it in an 8 speed Corvette was in for the same issue - only their's was described as a violent shake. Dealership says the vibration can vary greatly so they don't even chance it and replace TC and new fluid every time. They've also been successful in getting GM to cover the bill out of warranty.
Agreed, this isn't a perfect solution that will have the same results as a complete paint repair/restoration but it will be the best DIY solution that costs you under $100. Paint pens/brushes look like globbed crap. Based on what I'm seeing with the Dr Colorchip kit this is the most control over the paint that you can achieve - and it's much quicker when you have a lot of chips (which is true in my case - front painted bumper is peppered). Kit should arrive this weekend or early next week, hoping to get time next weekend to touch up my truck.
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