papageoff

Anyone know what is the current reigning champion of catch cans?

Okay, well, I guess I can start with the chemical and see what that does. I hope it doesn't destroy the truck though... Geeze. I never bought into the hype about catch cans, but I get the logic. I'll look into one of those too.

Honestly, no... I took for granted that a vehicle this new wouldn't have a problem.

So, then what should I do here? Should I try to run the CRC cleaner through the intake or what? I don't want to destroy my cats and O2 sensors. Geoff

Um... Thanks... What happened? Did the intake cleaning mess up the exhaust system?

So, let me preface this with... I'm probably worrying about nothing here, but that's what I do. My 15 5.3 has developed a mild stumble at idle in the last 15-20k miles. It kind of feels like a misfire, but not that intense. The best way I can describe it would be 'bumpy'. I've only started to care about since it's been getting worse. In one of my last visits, the dealer did an induction service (supposedly), but my throttle body wasn't particularly clean when I removed the tube a few weeks later. It wasn't dirty, but not spotless. Also, in the last couple weeks it's gotten bad enough to happen at every stoplight and the intensity is increasingly perceptible in the tach. Also, my the inside of my exhaust pipe is covered in soot. I've never noticed any smoke, but I haven't monitored my oil levels enough to know if I'm actively burning it. 2015 5.3L Gas (not FF) 65k miles or so I've run 93 octane exclusively for over a year due to persistent load-induced knocking on 87 and occasional knocking on 91 I have an AFE dry-flow filter in the stock box I have the Airraid MIT I have some damage to the woven exhaust coupler after the catalytic converter. It's not shown any signs of significant leakage, but something o/r banged it up a bit. Stock Tune (afaik), but the pinging on 87 has made me wonder. Honestly, if this is the engine after a tuner they should have gotten their money back. At lunch, I fired up TorquePro and look a look at my fuel trims as I drove back to the office. The LTFT peaked at -7ish (both banks) but it didn't stay there long. The STFT moved around a lot but rarely deviated from -8, +8. I can do some logging if that might help. My theories that I hope to work through are: Dirty Air Filter Excessive PCV flow/buildup. I have a can of CRC intake valve cleaner and I might break down and buy a catch can... I dunno. Oil Burning Unlikely based on never seeing smoke, but I may pull a few plugs and see what they look like. EGR sticking open a bit O2 Sensors Can you think of anything else I should look at or consider?

Mine's been stumbling at idle more and more. I also have a very sooty tailpipe. I was wondering if I have an egr problem. But this makes sense too. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Don't over think it... ;-) Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Phil what parts would I need to do the swap on my '15 with DL8? (manual-folding). I was looking at the mirrors here: https://www.1aauto.com/mirror-pair-trail-ridge-tr00284/i/1amrp01794?f=1138958&y=2015 I figure I'll need: The mirrors A harness of some sort power folding switch Anything else? Do you have/make the right harness?

Just bought a camper this weekend and looking for few quick answers if anyone knows.... I have DL8 mirrors and want to go to DQS. I don't care about memory function. I just want power folding. 1. Is this possible? 2. Does it require a reflash of the BCM? 3. Is this more trouble than it's worth? Thanks.

Go get your battery checked at the auto parts store. The check is free. My guess would be that the alternator is constantly trying to charge the battery because it's lost a cell. If that's the case, it'll eventually wear the alternator out.

I finally got my amplified PA speaker in to troll the neighborhood kids with the ice cream truck song , and my wife bought me that Pop-n-lock kit for my tailgate. Oh, and my powersteps which I'm told were my Christmas present for years to come...

You sir, need a relay. The horn switch will then trigger the relay to switch the high current load (in this case the horns). A relay is an electromechanical switch that uses a small signal to control a large one. They come in many sizes but a 20a is more than enough I would think. You'll wire the existing circuit to the control side of the relay and run a new circuit from the battery (w inline fuse at the battery, pls)or other suitable source to the output side. Then the horn button will trigger the relay, which will power the horns until the button is released. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what fuse feeds pins 7 and 17 in this picture? I'm trying to get the 12V constant to switch a relay for lights and I'm not getting any voltage from either. This is in the x61 junction block under the left-driver's foot.

Only time I've ever had a mistake it was in their favor and they never called and I had a devil of a time proving the issue. Save your receipts...!