Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

36 Good

About papageoff

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Gender
  • Drives

Recent Profile Visitors

2,059 profile views
  1. It's a rubber gasket designed to reduce drag and wind noise between the bed-cab. The white part you see is the foam tape designed to hold it to the back of the cab.
  2. FWIW, the wikipedia article on AFM says that #6 is an AFM cylinder. It was actually an interesting read for those inclined. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_Fuel_Management
  3. Yeah. I'm hoping they just fix it. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  4. Not running a range, exhaust, nor tune. Motor is stock. I have an aem dry filter and the airaid MIT. Not sure why it happened, but the service writer instantly recognized it. I think he said he thinks it's number 6. Not sure if it's one of the AFM ones or not. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  5. Well, I was merging onto the highway this afternoon after work and felt a weird klunk-rattle. It was a new one on me. It seemed to drive okay, had good oil pressure, and didn't set the CEL so at first I thought I'd hit something in the road. But within a couple miles I could tell something was up. Accelerating up hills from a coast it would stutter and sounded like a mallet was hitting the firewall. I couldn't really hear anything specific in the cab. I was only a few miles from the dealer, so I called them and luckily enough got my normal service advisor. He's a decent guy. Never tried to screw me. I said I was coming in. When I got off the interstate the truck didn't want to accelerate all and was making that pounding noise. When I pulled into the dealership and hopped out, I could hear the lifter clacking. He instantly recognized it. I'd never heard one in person before, but it sounds like the right diagnosis to me. He said it should be covered by the 100k powertrain warranty. I don't see why it wouldn't be, but I've never had warranty claim with Chevy before. So, we'll see I guess. The bad news is that he said worst case is 1 month to get the truck back. I choked. I let him know I have a camping trip in about 3 weeks, but that didn't seem to sway anything. He said he'll know more on Monday. So, that's how I spent my evening.
  6. Mine is doing this as well, but I have added stuff that might also be involved. Rosco... You mean the top but on the strut or the three that mount the assembly? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  7. Have you tried to pull any codes? Most auto parts stores will pull the stored codes for free. If it was a runtime code, then it may not show anything; but, it's where I'd start.
  8. +1. We did this the summer before we bought ours and it was a huge help when we started shopping. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  9. Agreed. I'm in FL so our steepest hills are bridges. I don't think my truck would do well in mountain altitudes. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  10. I'm using Tapatalk and lost track of what forum I was in.. I have a Grand Design Imagine 2600rb. Sorry about that. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  11. TLDR; You have great truck. Just be mindful that you won't always be towing in perfect conditions and let that guide your decisions. Long Version: I have a '15 z71 and a 2600rb with about 7850lbs GVWR, though the last trip it weighed 6280 per the scale ticket. The wife and I just don't pack much I guess. We love the camper, but I wish it was smaller and lighter for the truck's sake. The truck handles it without much drama, but I'd never go bigger in a half-ton. I have the 1k/10k equalizer and the weight distribution is about perfect. I haven't had any sway, but the trailer can be jittery at times as it's light for it's suspension. We also haven't towed in poor conditions yet. More on that at the end... I get about 7-9mpg around 60-65. I felt like the rear springs were a bit weak for the tongue weight, firewood, and bikes (still under the truck's GVWR) and it squatted a bit more than I like. Part of that was the leveling kit I bought before the camper was even a thought. To help, I added a Roadmaster active suspension kit to the truck and now it only squats about 1" when hooked up. I haven't gotten to tow with that installed yet. My best advice comes in two parts. 1. Keep within the ratings of everything involved. 2. When you think about what you're going to tow, forget the pulling... Any truck can pull it. Ask yourself if you're confident the truck will quickly stop it while keeping it straight, in the rain, at night, going downhill on a less than perfect, unfamiliar road while your whole family is in the truck with you. Maybe I should get that 2020 dually... ;) Seriously though, this isn't to scare you or put you off. I know it's a bit extreme, but if you take out the falling rain (roads were wet) and the darkness, this exact scenario happened on my first trip. Hope that helps. RV shopping is fun. You're gonna have a blast! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  12. Exactly what I thought. Thanks Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  13. That is a very nice explanation of how the two leveling methods differ. What I was getting at was how the guy was saying spring preload, vs spacers would affect the alignment capabilities differently. I just don't see why. Let's say the current spacer kit which lifts the front end 2.25" lowers the resting position of the UCA's upper ball joint by say 5deg (made up number) relative to the UCA mounts (a fixed position). This downward deflection created the lift on the front end. The 5100s can provide about 1.85" of lift (iirc) and I'm talking about adding 0.375" under the shock. This would net 2.225" which is nearly the same as my 2.25" spacer combination. Now, I realize that the spacer on the top of the shock vs the spring pre-load are different ways to achieve the same thing, but in the end the UCA droops about the same amount. So where would an alignment issue come from? The truck has been aligned twice since adding the spacer kit and it's never been a problem.
  14. I called a 4wheel drive parts shop the other day to get 5100s put on at full lift and told the guy I wanted to keep the smaller (3/8" ish) bottom spacer from my leveling kit to avoid dropping the nose too much from it's current +2.25" level. They told me they can't/won't do it because the truck won't align right. He said because the Bilsteins preload the springs, it'll throw off the geometry and I'd need new UCAs. Now, it seems to me that since the net lift the same or a bit less it should be fine. What do all y'all think? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.