papageoff

Exactly what I thought. Thanks Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

That is a very nice explanation of how the two leveling methods differ. What I was getting at was how the guy was saying spring preload, vs spacers would affect the alignment capabilities differently. I just don't see why. Let's say the current spacer kit which lifts the front end 2.25" lowers the resting position of the UCA's upper ball joint by say 5deg (made up number) relative to the UCA mounts (a fixed position). This downward deflection created the lift on the front end. The 5100s can provide about 1.85" of lift (iirc) and I'm talking about adding 0.375" under the shock. This would net 2.225" which is nearly the same as my 2.25" spacer combination. Now, I realize that the spacer on the top of the shock vs the spring pre-load are different ways to achieve the same thing, but in the end the UCA droops about the same amount. So where would an alignment issue come from? The truck has been aligned twice since adding the spacer kit and it's never been a problem.

I called a 4wheel drive parts shop the other day to get 5100s put on at full lift and told the guy I wanted to keep the smaller (3/8" ish) bottom spacer from my leveling kit to avoid dropping the nose too much from it's current +2.25" level. They told me they can't/won't do it because the truck won't align right. He said because the Bilsteins preload the springs, it'll throw off the geometry and I'd need new UCAs. Now, it seems to me that since the net lift the same or a bit less it should be fine. What do all y'all think? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Anyone know what is the current reigning champion of catch cans?

Okay, well, I guess I can start with the chemical and see what that does. I hope it doesn't destroy the truck though... Geeze. I never bought into the hype about catch cans, but I get the logic. I'll look into one of those too.

Honestly, no... I took for granted that a vehicle this new wouldn't have a problem.

So, then what should I do here? Should I try to run the CRC cleaner through the intake or what? I don't want to destroy my cats and O2 sensors. Geoff

Um... Thanks... What happened? Did the intake cleaning mess up the exhaust system?

So, let me preface this with... I'm probably worrying about nothing here, but that's what I do. My 15 5.3 has developed a mild stumble at idle in the last 15-20k miles. It kind of feels like a misfire, but not that intense. The best way I can describe it would be 'bumpy'. I've only started to care about since it's been getting worse. In one of my last visits, the dealer did an induction service (supposedly), but my throttle body wasn't particularly clean when I removed the tube a few weeks later. It wasn't dirty, but not spotless. Also, in the last couple weeks it's gotten bad enough to happen at every stoplight and the intensity is increasingly perceptible in the tach. Also, my the inside of my exhaust pipe is covered in soot. I've never noticed any smoke, but I haven't monitored my oil levels enough to know if I'm actively burning it. 2015 5.3L Gas (not FF) 65k miles or so I've run 93 octane exclusively for over a year due to persistent load-induced knocking on 87 and occasional knocking on 91 I have an AFE dry-flow filter in the stock box I have the Airraid MIT I have some damage to the woven exhaust coupler after the catalytic converter. It's not shown any signs of significant leakage, but something o/r banged it up a bit. Stock Tune (afaik), but the pinging on 87 has made me wonder. Honestly, if this is the engine after a tuner they should have gotten their money back. At lunch, I fired up TorquePro and look a look at my fuel trims as I drove back to the office. The LTFT peaked at -7ish (both banks) but it didn't stay there long. The STFT moved around a lot but rarely deviated from -8, +8. I can do some logging if that might help. My theories that I hope to work through are: Dirty Air Filter Excessive PCV flow/buildup. I have a can of CRC intake valve cleaner and I might break down and buy a catch can... I dunno. Oil Burning Unlikely based on never seeing smoke, but I may pull a few plugs and see what they look like. EGR sticking open a bit O2 Sensors Can you think of anything else I should look at or consider?

Mine's been stumbling at idle more and more. I also have a very sooty tailpipe. I was wondering if I have an egr problem. But this makes sense too. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Don't over think it... ;-) Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Phil what parts would I need to do the swap on my '15 with DL8? (manual-folding). I was looking at the mirrors here: https://www.1aauto.com/mirror-pair-trail-ridge-tr00284/i/1amrp01794?f=1138958&y=2015 I figure I'll need: The mirrors A harness of some sort power folding switch Anything else? Do you have/make the right harness?

Just bought a camper this weekend and looking for few quick answers if anyone knows.... I have DL8 mirrors and want to go to DQS. I don't care about memory function. I just want power folding. 1. Is this possible? 2. Does it require a reflash of the BCM? 3. Is this more trouble than it's worth? Thanks.

Go get your battery checked at the auto parts store. The check is free. My guess would be that the alternator is constantly trying to charge the battery because it's lost a cell. If that's the case, it'll eventually wear the alternator out.

I finally got my amplified PA speaker in to troll the neighborhood kids with the ice cream truck song , and my wife bought me that Pop-n-lock kit for my tailgate. Oh, and my powersteps which I'm told were my Christmas present for years to come...