papageoff

Don't over think it... ;-) Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Phil what parts would I need to do the swap on my '15 with DL8? (manual-folding). I was looking at the mirrors here: https://www.1aauto.com/mirror-pair-trail-ridge-tr00284/i/1amrp01794?f=1138958&y=2015 I figure I'll need: The mirrors A harness of some sort power folding switch Anything else? Do you have/make the right harness?

Just bought a camper this weekend and looking for few quick answers if anyone knows.... I have DL8 mirrors and want to go to DQS. I don't care about memory function. I just want power folding. 1. Is this possible? 2. Does it require a reflash of the BCM? 3. Is this more trouble than it's worth? Thanks.

Go get your battery checked at the auto parts store. The check is free. My guess would be that the alternator is constantly trying to charge the battery because it's lost a cell. If that's the case, it'll eventually wear the alternator out.

I finally got my amplified PA speaker in to troll the neighborhood kids with the ice cream truck song , and my wife bought me that Pop-n-lock kit for my tailgate. Oh, and my powersteps which I'm told were my Christmas present for years to come...

You sir, need a relay. The horn switch will then trigger the relay to switch the high current load (in this case the horns). A relay is an electromechanical switch that uses a small signal to control a large one. They come in many sizes but a 20a is more than enough I would think. You'll wire the existing circuit to the control side of the relay and run a new circuit from the battery (w inline fuse at the battery, pls)or other suitable source to the output side. Then the horn button will trigger the relay, which will power the horns until the button is released. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what fuse feeds pins 7 and 17 in this picture? I'm trying to get the 12V constant to switch a relay for lights and I'm not getting any voltage from either. This is in the x61 junction block under the left-driver's foot.

Only time I've ever had a mistake it was in their favor and they never called and I had a devil of a time proving the issue. Save your receipts...!

Anyone know the rpo codes for which rear diff I have? It's a 15 z71 5.3. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I agree with using the best. I've usually been a mobile1 guy, but I have used amsoil in my bike's rear diff a couple times. Never had a problem. I'm totally game for using it this time. My wife will tell you... I love this truck. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Heh... I feel like you've answered this before. ;-) Not that it seems to matter from a lubricant standpoint, but is there a way to know which of those transfer cases I have without climbing under there and looking for stampings? Also, what is the difference between the signature series vs the "OE fuel efficient" one.

I've got about 61k on the truck and as far as I know these fluids have never been changed. I have a trip to NC coming up in a couple weeks and was thinking about changing them. Worth bothering? Do I need any special fluids like a friction modifier for the t-case clutches?

Thanks! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

So, just a quick question as much for my curiosity as anything... I have a 2.25" ProComp level installed that uses 2 pieces. Would it be better to install 5100s in the stock position and keep the pro comp level or install the bilsteins at max lift and add the bottom 1/4" spacer from the procomp kit?

Thanks. I've some of there work and when my buddy didn't like the sound of the flomaster they swapped it out for a MagnaFlow for free. Not sure how that works but they have a good rep in town. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk